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I no longer have that one, but still have a 50 amp load tester model, Harbor Freight model 90893.Too bad, the lighter-duty load testers they used to sell are more suited for testing these sticks; the 100+ amp load testers are more for automotive-sized lead acid batteries. If you use the 100A one they now sell, run it for only 5 seconds and read the voltage at that the five second mark, and comaper the result with the other sticks to get an idea of waht a good one will produce under that load. An alternative would be to put a multimeter on the stick while putting some other, more appropriate dummy load on the stick to see how the output voltage sags over the course of a minute.

@@phogroian1 Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Some of them actually held at 6v for awhile at 100amps. Looks like I’m headed back to Home Depot for light socket and a Halogen bulb.

Hi there Conor, I hope this gets you back on the road! It's been some years since I did this for my neighbor, and she sold that Civic hybrid last year. I think it was an 2003 or '05 with a manual transmission (!). Anyway, I still have that rig up in the attic of my garage. I remember the resistors getting painfully hot, but none of them burnt out. Train a box fan on the whole rig if necessary. When you are done, it may be a good idea to voltage and load test each stick before reassembling the battery pack. If one is truly dead or way out of spec, you may want to buy a used battery pack off of Ebay and cobble together a new assembly out of the best batteries. I remember there were electric thermometers and such in the pack, remember to re-install those. I also remember stripping one of the bolt studs upon reassembly, so be careful not to over-torque the bolts. Let me know how it turns out! I'm glad some people found the video useful, and that it eked out some additional life out of these old cars. Luckily NiCad and NiMh batteries are forgiving and won't burn violently as a lithium ion battery might! Best, Paul

Yes, the install manual cites 4" clearance from the back body of the unit, but consider that the actual case is only 27.5 inches deep, plus 1 inch for the front doors, and that existing protrusions are already giving you 3" more of rear depth beyond the case back anyway. To wit: the handles/ 90 degree hose fittings/ main drum bearing protrusions are already sticking out about 3" further than the body depth. So the unit, with the front door protrusions, will require a sum total of 31.5 inches. There is a cooling fan vent, like the kind on a desktop computer, in the very top right (when looking at it from the front of the machine) corner, but it is flush with the main body (27.5") so there is already "breathing room" for that. Seems like a very tight but achievable fit for your 32.25" closet. Keep in mind that the install manual also specifies either a louvered door in the front to provide ventilation, or vents installed into the door (24 square inches at bottom, 48 at top). a matching pair of, say, 10" x 5" vents installed into the door should do it. I see that LG has come out with a similar model with a slightly larger capacity.... I don't know the dimensions of the new machine.

@@phogroian1 Wow, you rock! I'll probably order this set this week. You've liked it so far? One other question - is there a way to access and manually clean the condenser coils? I see there is a condenser cleaning function but I'd like to be able to get in there and vacuum it out if need be.

@@warrengrabenstetter1484 I love it, with the caveat that condenser dryers in general take twice as long to dry clothes... but theoretically they should be easier on them due to the mild heat compared with a conventional dryer. In a gambit to keep the condenser coils clean there are twin filters, one nested within each other. The second filter should be checked every other load, the first one every load. Rather than having access the the coils, there is a special self-clean cycle wherein one pours a liter of water right into the filter cavity (!) and you run a cleaning cycle. So it must really slosh those coils with lots of water to clean them off. I've had the unit 5 months now and have not yet tried it. I did perform the washer self-clean once, with a bit of bleach. You know how front-loaders can get musty- always empty it of wet clothes promptly, and leave the washer door slightly cracked open. I like the unit- I was not happy that the only way to get it to spin-only is to download the app onto my phone, connect the thing to my wifi. The turbo-jet wash feature seems to get clothes clean, quickly. I put my old washer/dryer (stacked) in our basement apartment. The centrally-located controls and thus lower overall height than most stacked separate units is really nice.

Yikes! All drain hoses should have been stored in the dryer section. It's possible the installers took all unused accessories back with them. Even if they had removed the bolts, 50/50 chance of them leaving them with the customer or installing the bolt hole plugs. Did they have to wrestle with the unit to get it moved into place? Wondering at what point the door got damaged. Was it still in its original box when it came off the truck?

It doesn't. The dryer works my taking humidity out of the air through condensation. Were steam to be introduced, it would immediately be circulated past condensation coils, and turned back to water. The heat produced by this dryer is minor compared with a conventional dryer in which steam could be used in conjunction with heat. Thus no water supply for the dryer. It "supplies" its own water.... but does not use it to feed a steam generator unit. The WASHER has a steam cleaning function (and jet action setting).

I'm liking it very much. I used to worry about a conventional dryer's energy toll of sucking out so much warm air out of the house in Winter or cool air in Summer, creating a negative pressure in the house which needed to be equalized. Even though longer dry times are inherent to a dehumidifier heat pump technology dryer, I really don't care- let it take a few hours, I don't have a large household. The wash times are short, and the wash quality is excellent, especially with the "turbowash" jet feature. Frankly the old-school curmudgeon in me chafes at the concept that some features, such as the spin-only and rinse-and-spin feature, are not on the panel and only in the cloud, with downloaded app. So now my washer is online with my wifi, what a revolting development! If I cared that LG now knows how much laundry I do and when, or If I was concerned that LG would go belly-up and my alternate cycles would disappear into the ether, then that would be a deal-killer for me. But interestingly I don't seem to care.... call it surrender to the modern age, I guess. Because the dryer recirculates and does not vent, one must be diligent about sweeping clean the filter elements after every cycle. But I love this washer-dryer. I was waiting for a heat pump Washtower, and here it is! The centrally-located controls, the quality of construction, etc..; this is a well-engineered unit.

I'd be interested to know how many others will have this problem with installers being unfamiliar with ventless dryers, until they become commonplace in the U.S.; already I see a few negative reviews on the Home Depot site from customers with water damage from condensate from incorrectly-installed heat pump dryers.

Yes I ended up using that electronic unit that I mentioned later on in the video instead, although the mechanical unit works well for adjusting the spacing and timing as well as the dwelltime of each part of the triggering. A programmed Arduino Which function similar to electronic module alternative that I show. Hope the video is useful! Not sure how important it is to put the flocked velvet in the barrel to reduce reflections but my results looked really good. I shot some dynamic-range slides in the high dynamic range setting And there’s no clipping of the highlights or shadows.

At the time I shot this video, the only digital camera I had took a maximum clip of five minutes. I had already detached the vent hood-to-chimney sheet metal, so I began the video there. The video does cut off at the five minute mark, before I was finished yakking (my apologies for not getting straight to the point, but I felt that some who are uninitiated with and intimidated by a boiler might need an primer overview of what they are looking at). However, the re-assembly is simply the reverse order of disassembly. I uploaded this video because simple cleaning is within the wheelhouse of the end user, the homeowner. Leave any gas plumbing or high voltage wiring chores to a professional HVAC technician. You will notice that there are a few rudimentary but vital safety valves and switches on this unit (such as the flame rollout thermal switch). These must not be bypassed- if they are defective, they must be replaced with the same spec part. Bummer that TH-cam puts ads of everything these days, eh? i set the thing up with no monetization and no ads, but they changed the terms on us since.

Might I ask what equipment you are using to make your critical scans? My Epson V850 Pro can achieve 4800 DPI, but it, like my 35mm camera, it is limited by the resolution of itswith the flatbed I analyze each slide and laboriously sweat the details, custom-setting the parameters of highlights and shadow area for each slide.. At any rate, for practical purposes the true limitation is that of what the source material can offer; that would be the resolving power of the slide film, and that of the non-digital age lens which delivered an image to it. For example, I've have been flatbed scanning 8" x 10" B&W negatives shot on an old Deardorff camera sporting a vintage Goerz Red Dot Artar (coated) . I scan them at "only" 1200 DPI (12,000 pixels on the long 10" side, it's a huge, sharp scan) because there is no purpose in scanning them at a higher DPI. I have reached the full potential of the film and camera lens used originally, decades ago.

If you are implying that the gas valve is leaking gas when the integral solenoid should have shut it off, you must immediately turn off the shutoff petcock leading to the unit and call a licensed contractor for service, as your local code probably prohibits a handyman from replacing gas lines or componentry, and you may need a permit to replace the valve as well. What wiring is burned out? the main PCB could fail but replacing parts on a venture will be costly, time-consuming, and unnecessary. Best to call for service and have a professional diagnosis. If the unit is at the end of its service life you may want to get a few quotes for a replacement. I think Laars still makes this thing- a direct swap would simply the labor of hooking a new one up. I moved to a different home a few years ago; my "new" home has a heat pump and backup oil burner, so this unit is now in "the rear view mirror" for me.

You find out your problem?

@@TheMentalMKE after cleaning the burners and the pilot all went back to normal , the radiator was clean

@@giuseppearbia That worked for me, Thanks

That's certainly an option; may as well remove that condenser as even with reduced wattage on the lamp there should be an ample amount of light. - I left mine in in this instance because it was doing a good job throwing a focused beam onto the diffuser which I had installed near the slide gate. I left the heat-absorbing glass in there too. For best results lights in the room should be dimmed just in case extraneous light is causing glare.

We were thinking along the same lines- using what digital camera and slide projector system/format we already had, and using inexpensive componentry to synchronize the camera to the projector. I set the capture to low sharpening, and due to the high density range of transparencies set the contrast low, the ASA low to maximize the dynamic range which the camera could afford, and set the camera meter to underexpose to prevent highlight clipping. The results are similar to the (painfully slow) 4800 DPI scans I'm getting from my Epson flatbed. All my Kodak Carousel and loose (stack loader) slides are now scanned; now on to the Bell and Howell slide cartridges from my late Aunt. I don't have the Rollei system but it looks splendid, well-crafted as the B&H system is. Not fond of the Kodak Carousel but it is everywhere.

There is a commercial digitization unit on the market which is similar in design to this setup but it costs over $1K. The key to the setup I have here is to utilize a camera system which you already possess, and if you have or can procure secondhand a slide projector appropriate to the way your slides are currently housed. Kodak Carousel models are plentiful, and the stack loaders are also easy to find, so if you have stacs of slides that is what I would recommend. I did in fact assemble that proposed all-electronic unit that I devised, which you see the plans for at the 1:24:24 mark, and it works great, easy and inexpensive to build. I set the OONO pulse unit "off" dwell time to about a quarter second, long enough to reset that shutter-release delay unit but short enough to advance the slide projector only one frame, not two. Plenty of leeway there. If you supply your own slide projector, camera, and macro telephoto lens and let me know the make and model numbers of them, I'm sure I can point you in the right direction to arrange this setup and could even wire up an electronic advance unit for you at cost plus a small fee.

@@phogroian1 Great resource and tips for digitizing slides! thank you!!

Hi Zaeeef, not sure why your own projector's auto feature isn't working but I suppose if the slide projector itself is set to a "slide show" setting the software-driven camera capture program could be set to an interval which corresponds to what the slide projector is doing automatically. If you want the software to set the image capture and the camera itself to advance the slide, there is a delay module I see on Amazon, not sure if TH-cam allows the link but it is titled "12V DC Delay Delay Relay Turn on / Delay Turn off Switch Module with Timer" and it is 5 dollars. It's possible that you could use the camera's flash sync connection to trigger this unit, and the projector advance could in turn be tied to the "normally open" port of this module, so, after a half second delay, the slide projector would advance. Sort of a reverse of my "projector triggering the camera" idea. In addition, to the "normally closed" section of the circuit one might route the power supply to the module itself... that way, as soon as the relay gave the slide projector a pulse to advance a slide, power would be cut to the module, thus resetting it so it will be waiting for the next trigger from the camera. In theory something like that should work but half the fun is in the experimentation, so it would be neat to play with the possibilities! Just use a meter first to be sure you're not sending a damaging amount of current through the camera's synch circuit; you wouldn't want to fry your camera! Franky in this setup I'd also use a camera protection unit, Wein Products W990560 (SSHSHS) . I have one of those Wein units from a time when I was using a vintage studio strobe system with a modern digital camera and I feared that the old-school strobe trigger voltage might be too high for sensitive electronics.

@@paulh6591 great idea I will try that. Thank you for taking your time to reply to me.

I moved to a different home a few years ago, so I no longer own this unit. Near and above the spark unit and small gas feed tube there is a temperature sensor. This sensor must verify that electronic ignition has indeed lit the pilot feed before the control unit will send a signal to the solenoid in the valve to allow the valve to open and let gas through. So there sensor may be bad. Or, more significantly, the PC board in the control unit is bad, or the electronic gas valve is faulty. The sensor should be cheap and easy to replace. If that doesn't solve the problem, call a technician. The motherboard is too pricey to buy on a venture, and a gas valve replacement procedure is beyond the scope of what an end user should perform, for safety's sake. Best to let a professional diagnose the problem at that point. Let me know how it turns out! There's no flame rollout, correct? That would (rightly so) shut things down within a few minutes, as the rollout flames would trip the thermal safety cutout sensor.

Of course you may borrow it, or if you are uncomfortable with the task of dismantling the battery back just bring the whole thing over and drop it off for a few days and I'll do it for you. -Paul (phogroian , gmail)

Just follow the directions; very simple. After my 3 year and 3 month failed "Burglar-Battery" from eli started to "sweat" and rust underneath his black heat-shrink, I traded the highly flammable sticks for 20 of his old sticks. My pack still works well with a Grid Charge when I don't drive it for awhile.

This is for the Civic hybrid sticks

@@Crappycarguy Thank you

It's been a while since I did this project for my neighbor but the set of six cells in a "stick" would read over the nominal 7.2V when charged but would never achieve 13v or even 11v. even under a reasonable load they shouldn't drop below 6.3V, within two minutes... if they do, even after "forming" them with a few charge cycles, then one ore more of the cells in the stick must be dead or weak, and the stick should be replaced. It's not worth your time to disassemble a stick to replace a dead cell.

You charged a 7.2V stick with an 18v charger?!

@@dinkata2005 no, i charged two which is 14.4

@@AD-sg5tm still the possibility that you've damaged them is too high, as the power supply you mentioned is at 4A. How long did you charge them? Did they get warm?

Yes- they are simply NiMH (not NiCAD) "D" cells. Since the sticks are so nicely welded, with the appropriate end pieces attached, and shrink-wrapped, I would strongly advise purchasing a replacement stick for any grouping that will no longer accept an appropriate charge, though a stick COULD be disassembled to determine which cell is the "dead" one.