I have Toyota Camry cylindrical cells, I’m charging 6 at once connected in parallel using voltage regulator I set it to 5.44v and it started with 1.9 amps now has reached 5.29v and 0.30 amps. I’m doing this correctly or no? Each module has 12 cells. It’s like 3 sticks each stick has 4 cells, I uploaded video on my channel of how I’m doing it.
Hi I have problem with my ima battery, i tried to discharge and change it again with a power supply 18V/ 4A, but what i considered when i discharge it with headlight that the batter goes fast from 13V to 11V like i a minute maybe, and when leave it to rest for 2 minutes back again to 14V. What is the wrong with it???? Is there some problem with cells???
It's been a while since I did this project for my neighbor but the set of six cells in a "stick" would read over the nominal 7.2V when charged but would never achieve 13v or even 11v. even under a reasonable load they shouldn't drop below 6.3V, within two minutes... if they do, even after "forming" them with a few charge cycles, then one ore more of the cells in the stick must be dead or weak, and the stick should be replaced. It's not worth your time to disassemble a stick to replace a dead cell.
@@AD-sg5tm still the possibility that you've damaged them is too high, as the power supply you mentioned is at 4A. How long did you charge them? Did they get warm?
Very impressive! How did your battery pack turn out? Was it a success? I'm considering building one but am interested to know if you achieved the results you were looking for and for how long.
Exceedingly well. The car passed emissions and safety tests (after replacing the dry-rotted tires). No more warning lights. The car had been sitting for four years, yet started and ran smoothly ,with stale gasoline in the tank! Honda quality for you. The batteries were the original ones to the car and were down to a quarter-volt per cell after sitting for so long, but they came back strong. I was surprised that abused, 14 year-old batteries on a high miles car could be re-formed. I performed three 20-hour charge sessions and two eight-hour discharge sessions. My neighbor reports that charge/discharge cycles, as indicated on the instrument panel, behave "differently" than it did years ago, so I'd imagine that even though they can now take a charge and deliver many amps of current, they are not performing as new. I did run each stick of my 20-amp battery load tester to see if the voltage held up under load, before giving the sticks a final charge prior to re-assembly. As for the charging rig, as a test I created an auxiliary set of resistors; crimped some alligator clips to a set of twenty 10-ohm resistors, that I could gang with the existing 13 watt ones (maybe 6 ohms(!) That made for a much higher charge rate but manageable for the first few hours of charging. In retrospect I would have built it with 8-10 ohm resistors from the start, mage a housing to accommodate a cooling fan (I ended up training a box fan on the resistors because I didn't want them to run hot. Done over, I might have used coil contacts on one side so spacing tolerances wouldn't have to be so meticulous (I had to be careful constructing it so that the tab spacing was within very strict tolerances) and would have used a common rail for the negative side so I wouldn't have had to run a separate wire from each contact to the ground (needless labor). When I had the rig set up with the extra resistors in parallel, I set the 12 Battery charger to the 10-amp setting; with the 13 ohm resistors, the 10 or 2 amp setting worked well. A hefty lead-acid battery on the is the perfect buffer to supply all the juice needed to charge that many batteries at once. If you live near the Washington DC area (Falls Church, VA) you are welcome to have this rig, as I no longer need it. One last bit of advice, when re-assembling the battery pact do not over-torque the end bolts; I ended up breaking one had had to extract it.
@@phogroian1 Really amazing work and results! I'm Just teaching myself electronics and am fascinated by this process. Thankyou for your reply. I like your method much more than the other systems out there and you have explained this in such detail that I feel confident I can do this myself without blowing something up. Did you get the leaf spring contacts from Newark as well? Where did you find your 20 amp load tester? I have one that I got from harbor freight, afraid to use because it says 100 amp draw. Unfortunately I don't live nearby, all the way in Windsor California. I'm very surprised that you haven't received more comments on this.
I'd have to box it up and protect it with padding, but I guess I could. As for the leaf contacts, there are KEYSTONE 5230 Battery Contacts, intended for AAA batteries but I perched then on a 1/4 inch wood strip that also served to keep the sticks on the board.
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I have Toyota Camry cylindrical cells, I’m charging 6 at once connected in parallel using voltage regulator I set it to 5.44v and it started with 1.9 amps now has reached 5.29v and 0.30 amps.
I’m doing this correctly or no?
Each module has 12 cells. It’s like 3 sticks each stick has 4 cells,
I uploaded video on my channel of how I’m doing it.
Thank you!
How much can I pay you to send me one of them fine chargers u made ?🤞
5000
Hi
I have problem with my ima battery, i tried to discharge and change it again with a power supply 18V/ 4A, but what i considered when i discharge it with headlight that the batter goes fast from 13V to 11V like i a minute maybe, and when leave it to rest for 2 minutes back again to 14V. What is the wrong with it???? Is there some problem with cells???
It's been a while since I did this project for my neighbor but the set of six cells in a "stick" would read over the nominal 7.2V when charged but would never achieve 13v or even 11v. even under a reasonable load they shouldn't drop below 6.3V, within two minutes... if they do, even after "forming" them with a few charge cycles, then one ore more of the cells in the stick must be dead or weak, and the stick should be replaced. It's not worth your time to disassemble a stick to replace a dead cell.
You charged a 7.2V stick with an 18v charger?!
@@dinkata2005 no, i charged two which is 14.4
@@AD-sg5tm still the possibility that you've damaged them is too high, as the power supply you mentioned is at 4A.
How long did you charge them? Did they get warm?
Very impressive! How did your battery pack turn out? Was it a success? I'm considering building one but am interested to know if you achieved the results you were looking for and for how long.
Exceedingly well. The car passed emissions and safety tests (after replacing the dry-rotted tires). No more warning lights. The car had been sitting for four years, yet started and ran smoothly ,with stale gasoline in the tank! Honda quality for you. The batteries were the original ones to the car and were down to a quarter-volt per cell after sitting for so long, but they came back strong. I was surprised that abused, 14 year-old batteries on a high miles car could be re-formed. I performed three 20-hour charge sessions and two eight-hour discharge sessions. My neighbor reports that charge/discharge cycles, as indicated on the instrument panel, behave "differently" than it did years ago, so I'd imagine that even though they can now take a charge and deliver many amps of current, they are not performing as new. I did run each stick of my 20-amp battery load tester to see if the voltage held up under load, before giving the sticks a final charge prior to re-assembly. As for the charging rig, as a test I created an auxiliary set of resistors; crimped some alligator clips to a set of twenty 10-ohm resistors, that I could gang with the existing 13 watt ones (maybe 6 ohms(!) That made for a much higher charge rate but manageable for the first few hours of charging. In retrospect I would have built it with 8-10 ohm resistors from the start, mage a housing to accommodate a cooling fan (I ended up training a box fan on the resistors because I didn't want them to run hot. Done over, I might have used coil contacts on one side so spacing tolerances wouldn't have to be so meticulous (I had to be careful constructing it so that the tab spacing was within very strict tolerances) and would have used a common rail for the negative side so I wouldn't have had to run a separate wire from each contact to the ground (needless labor). When I had the rig set up with the extra resistors in parallel, I set the 12 Battery charger to the 10-amp setting; with the 13 ohm resistors, the 10 or 2 amp setting worked well. A hefty lead-acid battery on the is the perfect buffer to supply all the juice needed to charge that many batteries at once. If you live near the Washington DC area (Falls Church, VA) you are welcome to have this rig, as I no longer need it. One last bit of advice, when re-assembling the battery pact do not over-torque the end bolts; I ended up breaking one had had to extract it.
@@phogroian1 Really amazing work and results! I'm Just teaching myself electronics and am fascinated by this process. Thankyou for your reply. I like your method much more than the other systems out there and you have explained this in such detail that I feel confident I can do this myself without blowing something up. Did you get the leaf spring contacts from Newark as well? Where did you find your 20 amp load tester? I have one that I got from harbor freight, afraid to use because it says 100 amp draw. Unfortunately I don't live nearby, all the way in Windsor California. I'm very surprised that you haven't received more comments on this.
Would love to have this. Would you be willing to ship it to me if I paid you say $50 plus shipping?
I'd have to box it up and protect it with padding, but I guess I could. As for the leaf contacts, there are KEYSTONE 5230 Battery Contacts, intended for AAA batteries but I perched then on a 1/4 inch wood strip that also served to keep the sticks on the board.
OK I'll give you a call and make arrangements. Maybe today I'll make a second, final video on the subject so that others can construct it.