วีดีโอ

Hey! Do you mean the Tamron f2.8 not f2? If so then personally for video the Sony 24-105 f4 might be better due to having 24mm on the wide end. It might not sound like much but 24-28mm is quite a big difference, even more so when you add in all the extra crops from your camera’s IS and various shooting formats. The f2.8 is obviously more beneficial in low light, but for video I wouldn’t worry about the shallower depth of field from f2.8 to f4. I’d only go for the Tamron if you want to do a lot of low light stuff. Another alternative is the Sigma 24-70 f2.8. I also had this lens and found it extremely useful for both video and photography. I made a video on that if you look back as this may also be worth considering instead of the Tamron. I hope this helps! 😊

@ thanks mate!

@ You’re welcome! ☺️

That’s very nice of you to say 😊 I’m glad you enjoyed it and thank you for your support! 😊

Huh? I don’t use vlog for photos. I shoot raw. This is to show how you can customise the one custom dial for video, so you no longer need a custom dial for 25fps and another for 50fps and so on. Meaning you can keep all your dialled in settings (such as white balance, iso, af etc) the same throughout your shoot. That then leaves you with more custom dials to assign to whatever you like. I chose to assign them to aperture priority and manual for photography so I can switch between photo and video much quicker on the dial. For photography I always shoot raw and edit them later. Vlog is definitely not for photography. If you shoot raw it doesn’t matter what picture profile is activated, it will still produce a raw photo.

You’re very welcome! 😊

Your ‘mov’ is 58gb? Isn’t that the exported video? This is for the main Final Cut Pro file size also knows as the Library. But also if you did mean the Library it depends how you imported your clips. If you have them set to store within the FCP Library then yes you will have large file sizes still. But you can still severely reduce all the background render information that FCP gathers as you’re working by following the steps in this video, but you can never go below the size of the video files you’ve imported within it. I like to have the settings set to keeping the video files (original footage) in their original location so that I’m not potentially duplicating footage over multiple libraries.

🤣 I know! Very much looking forward to seeing what they do with that!

Yeh I agree. The footage with the Action 5 with and ND does have a shake to it which is very noticeable.

Typically Sony lenses work on Sony cameras and Canon lenses work on Canon cameras. The only exception is if you were to buy a special adaptor that would allow a canon lens to fit on a Sony camera for example. However I would not recommend this to be honest. So if you have a Canon rebel t6 then I would choose a lens that is designed for the EF or EF-S Canon mount. If you’re thinking about the 24-70 f4 I believe the Canon 24-105mm f4 is a better lens and would be a great lens for all of what you mentioned. It’s a very good ‘do it all’ lens that you can grow with. It’s what I started with 😊 I hope this helps!

No, you would need to switch the dial to another custom setting. The main feature here allows you to easily switch between framerates via a custom button without having to change any other custom settings due to having shutter angle. If you wanted to switch between photo and video then you will need to switch to a different custom mode.

Yeh Sigma are coming up with some very intriguing lenses. But they’re generally quite large, especially their primes. Plus I much prefer sticking with the native branded lenses where I can for better compatibility and autofocus performance. You did well getting that lens for $500! I hope you’re enjoying it 😊

Hi, yes sorry, my name’s Sam 😊 Glad you enjoyed it and welcome aboard! 😊

Thank you! I’m glad you found it useful 😊

No problem 😌

Oooo a GoPro mount! That’s a handy one to have! I may look at that one along with the in-car mount. Yeh I do love that it has raised edges to protect the screen and camera too. I should have mentioned that 🤣 Thanks! ☺️

No not yet!

Thank you! ☺️

I haven’t made one in 4k yet but thinking of doing that this Christmas time! 😊 The quality is even nicer in 4k at night btw 😊

Thank you! 🙏😊 I’m glad you liked it! Hoping to do some more soon 😊

Sorry not sure I understand? What do you mean by LightCut?

🤣 The best time to buy!! 🤣

Thank you 🙏 😊

Thank you, glad you found it useful! 😊

👍👌😊

Thank you! Welcome aboard 😊 Hmmm that’s a tricky one. For image quality alone, hands down the pocket 3. But for versatility I’d go Action 5. So for you, if you’re putting it on a tripod to film yourself skating, the pocket 3 would be ideal because you can also do subject tracking and the gimbal will follow you. However if you ever do POV videos of yourself skating then the Action 5 would be far better as you can mount it better to yourself but also it’s much more durable if you fall. For landscapes and hikes I’d say pocket 3 just for image quality. But if you’re ever in bad weather it’s not weather sealed like the Action 5. I hope that was helpful! 😊

Good to know it was a worthwhile investment! Incase I need to justify it to my wife 🤣

Thank you 🙏 I always enjoy reading your nice comments 😊 Yeh those are the same settings I’ve gone for in the end minus an ND as I haven’t got the spare cash for them just yet 😂 Ah yes FPV that makes more sense. I would certainly crash an FPV so no intentions of getting involved with those 🤣

@@TheCreatorsBlock No worries..I always enjoy the videos! 🙂 I know the feeling. There’s things I need to buy and there’s things I want to buy and right now I can’t prioritise either 😂. The protection would be good for any action sport really, I just jump to FPV. It’s all good, takes a while to be confident not to smash it up that way, but I’m nearly 4 years into it now so a little too comfortable sometimes. 😂

Nice! Limit do great combo offers! How are you finding the S5iiX to the S1?

@@TheCreatorsBlock Actually I love the size of the S1 and the top screen and button illumination. The colors on S1 lean more towards magenta, and the S5iix is sharper and lean more towards green. I was never a autofocus guy until the X but damn its convenient. If the X had internal ND I wouldn't even look at another camera.

3CCD's baby! DV Tape! 4:3! Yeah! 😂

Thank you 🙏😊

Thank you! ☺️ Glad you found it useful!

It is a very enjoyable camera to use 😊

Ha! Yeh perhaps it does 🤣

Oh wow thank you 😊🙏

@@TheCreatorsBlock no prob, keep planting seeds they will grow😊

I do love the Lumix and Leica collab for sure, both for M43s and FF (Although FF lenses are somewhat expensive!). I'm very happy with the IBIS from the S5iix so I can't imagine how much better it could potentially get with the g9ii 😂

I had the s5 iix before the g9 ii. I got annoyed at the size and weight hence the change. But with the new AF and EIS ibis update on the s5 ii/iix just makes it even better! Almost gimbal or DJI like ibis too. I will definitely get another s5 ii in the future!

Yeh it’s very hard to just stick to the one system 🤣 I’d love to be able to afford to experiment with the M43s system, but FF is the better sole option for me. The G9ii does intrigue me a lot!

Thanks for adding all this, it's very informative! 🙂 As I always say it's very very important to not just watch one video and take it as gospel, research as much as possible. I do however think a lot of your points are very advanced for the target audience for this video. I mean I strugled to keep this video at an already quite lengthy 22 minutes 😂 But for the pruposes of this video I'd say field of view and focal length can be deemed one and the same. At the end of the day it's just about what you see and what can fit in your frame when you're starting out and I think it's more important to know why you can't fit what you can fit in the frame from the same lens when on the various systems. Plus, if I had dived into the difference between field of view, focal length, compression, ISO performance, sensor technology advancement etc, then this video would have an even lower retention rate than it perhaps already has 😂 Hence the overused word 'typically' "Typically an APSC Sensor is..." Like I said, this video would be 3 days long! 😂 I was just hoping this may help the absolute beginner answer a few queries they may have in as simple a way as possible. Because I struggle myself from intenseive information overload and tried to make this in a way that I would have personally have liked to have been told when I first started. Then it can spark their desire to research more into everything afterwards. You can't fit the entire knowledge of cameras in the one video 😂

@@TheCreatorsBlock Yeah, I did give a lot of qualifications to what I said, getting real technical. I just think, the main point that is confusing to people is being told to apply the 1.5x to both the focal length AND the f/stop. Then people start thinking that crop sensor lenses let in less light, and are confused later on and have to unlearn something they thought they knew.

You're right, it's the same amount of light at each place on a sensor regardless of its size. But total light across the whole sensor increases as one jumps up in sensor size. Four MFT cameras collect 4x total light compared to one MFT camera (or one FF camera). And crop factor can be ignored if your cameras all have the same sensor size 😊

That's awesome! Looks like you made a great choice for what you wanted! Like I said M43s do intrigue me quite a bit, and would love to have the g9ii but i can't afford to be in more than one system at the minute! Enjoy! 🙂

🤣 Yes there are other brands but I struggled to keep this video at around 20minutes as it is 🤣

Thank you, glad you found it useful! Sorry for any confusion, but I think you may have misunderstood slightly. I’m not saying you can’t achieve the same look as a full frame, just not from the same lens. You need to opt for faster and wider lenses to achieve the same look from a full frame with a narrower focal length and aperture lens. Yes you are correct the 16mm f1.2 on an APSC delivers the ‘same’ performance as a 24mm f1.8 would on a full frame. But you have had to buy a specially designed lens to achieve that same result from a FF with a 24mm f1.8. And that was a point i made somewhere in the video, you need a lens that has a wider aperture and focal length achieve the same look on a FF to compensate for that crop factor. And that specific 16mm f1.2 lens you mention wouldn’t be much use if you were to upgrade to full frame later. But if you don’t plan to upgrade then yes that’s a great lens choice to get! ☺️ However, If the 24mm f1.8 was put on both cameras then the APSC would have an aperture value equivalent to f2.7 not f1.8. So the FF would perform better using the same lenses. You do make a good point about wider lenses though for APSC, they are more affordable. Which is why I go on to say it’s always a compromise between Image Quality and Portability & Price. Perhaps I could have mentioned that in more detail. But when you come to the more general lens options such as your f2.8 and f4 zooms which is what most beginners will aim for, that’s when the f2.8 becomes an f4 and an f4 becomes an f6.0. Meaning that APSC low light performance isn’t as good as Full Frames because you can’t take full advantage of the focal lengths and aperture values that are actually listed on the lenses. Yes f1.4 and f1.2 lenses can be very expensive on full frame, but you at least have the choice to go wider than an equivalent f1.8 if you wanted. Does that make sense? 🤣 I hope that helps 😊

@@TheCreatorsBlock thanks for taking the time to reply and provide some much needed clarifications. Yes, it somewhat makes sense, except for the suggestion that it's a reasonable idea to purchase full frame lenses to use on APS-C cameras. More than half of the light is wasted, it adds a significant cost in $, it's significantly heavier, and for many normal focal lengths there wouldn't even be any full frame lens that would give image quality as good as the APS-C options. For instance, try to match the 16mm f1.2 APS-C lens using a full frame lens. The best 16mm full frame lens would be f1.8, but it costs an additional $250 and weighs almost 200g more. Considering that the cheaper and lighter APS-C lens will be more than 2 stops brighter, will have noticeably shallower depth of field, and will have less distorsion, I can't see why anyone would decide to purchase the FF lens instead of the APS-C lens. What am I missing?

@@comeraczy2483 Ha, this has definitely opened up a can of worms in the comments. 😂 Firstly, I do not know everything about every camera or lens/camera combo that's out there (Which is why I say you should research this yourself). I'm just trying my absolute best (I'm not perfect! I am STILL LEARNING too 😂) to hopefully help the absolute beginner answer a few unanswered questions they may have to mke a more informed decision, because like I said, it wasn't clear to me at first, so I wish I knew some of this before I started, it would have sped up my progress for sure 😂 You do make a great point about the 16mm f1.2 APSC lens. I actually did own this lens when I had the a6500 a while back because I was chasing that Full Frame look and struggled with APSC personally, oh no sorry I think it was actually a 16mm f1.4, not usre, but it was a similar lens. BUT my aspiration, was always to upgrade to full frame in the future. So for me (which I mention as just my personal opinion in the video) buying APSC lenses was not the right financial or progressive route for me. Instead I wanted full frame lenses so that when I do upgrade to full frame I have (hopefully) a selection of lenses that I can swap between both cameras and have 2 field of view options with each lens. However, I still do not fully see the benefit to buying APSC lenses UNLESS you 100% plan to stay in that system, then it most certainly does because they are cheaper and lighter than the full frame alternatives. BUT, you do only mention the one lens, the 16mm f1.2. There really aren't many other (if any) lenses that (to my knowledge anyway) that truly stick to having lower aperture values to help compensate from the reduction in low light performance from an APSC sensor (by performance I mean ISO performance). APSC lenses typically have very similar aperture values and focal lengths to their full frame alternatives. For example the classic 24-105 f4 full frame, the APSC alternative is 18-105mm f4 I believe. A great option, HOWEVER, it's still f4, so there's no aditional low light performance advantage, just it's now a bit wider at 18mm. So if you upgrade to full frame, then what? You need to eitehr sell it and buy the 24-105 f4, or you keep it and keep it on your APSC camera but now you need a second lens for your full frame. Do you know what I mean? I'm not by any way saying that APSC lenses are useless or not worth buying, they have their place and it's all personal preference and how you see your photography journey progressing. I would just personally think it would be much more appealing if they were designed more like M43s lenses that are fully designed in a way to make them truly much lighter and with wider aperture values to help compensate for that reduced low light performance. So that 18-105 f4 would be fantastic if it were an f2.8 instead (There may even be an option, I'm not so sure). The key is to research as much as possible and look at what will best suit your needs. I hope that makes sense for what I was trying to say and perhaps didn't articulate it properly. I appreciate your point of view though, everyone has a different perspective and opinion, so it's important for anyone looking to buy their first camera to watch many different videos, read articles, blogs etc to have as much knowledge to make the right decision for them.

Thank you! ☺️ I hope you enjoy using yours! 😊

LUMIX do very intriguing MFT cameras I have to say! The G9ii is one I’d like to try!