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What’s the difference between these and the ididit and flaming river

Great video! I patched a sunroof on a 1970 pontiac lemans and I got some warping. Going to give this method a try to see if I can get it smooth again.

Thanks for the info. Great explanation

Great explanation!

Could have, Summit also has a collapsible 1 inch to 3/4 double d intermediate shaft.

Great video! Thank you! Question: why didn't you just cut/modify the stock intermediate shaft from the rag joint and use the new 1 inch to 3/4 inch u joint in between the new column and the stock 3/4 inch rod?

Great video!

Appreciate you uploading this video! Thank you!

I set zero lash by moving the push rod up and down rather than spinning it.

If maintenance is that bad that a filter plugs....oops bad on you.

A 4" ABS cap fits PERFECTLY over the seal FYI.

What size are the pipe plugs for c&d?

Installing upper and lower control arms 😂 that sure looks like a spindle to me. Zero control arm install 🤦‍♂️

Ok so zero info on the control arms fml🤦‍♂️

Having just done this on a 69 Chevelle with the Hellwig FX kit and I can tell you that I certainly did not have that much clearance between the body and the cross member. With 3” exhaust there is only abut 1” clearance between the body and the collector extension.

Great video!! Thank you, this video is exactly what I needed.

I like this video and it's comments. One needs to consider that filters have a built-in bypass in case it plugs up. Too much for me to try to engineer something that will work. Just wish there was a simple way. Thanks for making this video.

Any recommendations on alignment on hood on a 70 chevelle ? I have the same hinges . Everything seems to line up pretty nicely. But soon as I put on the gas struts the rear side of the hood sticks up least 1-2 inches

Hi Lukas, I stumbled on to this video and thought I should add my two cents. Both of these valves are pressure differential valves. Meaning, they remain closed until the pressure difference is greater on one side of the valve as opposed to the other. You must remember that there is oil pressure on both sides of the pressure differential valve. The sole purpose of these valves is to prevent oil starvation should the oil filter and or the oil cooler become restricted. If the pressure on the side opposite the spring exceeds the pressure on the spring side by more than the spring pressure setting the plate will open allowing oil to bypass either the oil filter or the cooler insuring oil supply all be it unfiltered or uncooled oil to continue to flow through the engine.

I have a stock '85 K20 truck with a replacement engine (350M) with once piece rear main. My original engine has a two piece main. Will my automatic transmission still bolt up correctly to the new block with one one-piece rear main?

Great video for installing a disk brake kit. I had clicked on it to see the tubular control arms installed. ;)

Whats that NOISE!! WHERES THE BODY. NO BODY IS THE EASY WAY.

I have C and D plugged bc I don’t run an oil cooler. I’m looking for a spot to add a oil temp sensor. I’m using the port above the filter housing to read oil pressure. What port would you use ( C,D) to add a temp sensor? Or is there another spot to add it?

Great video. I’m repairing the bedsides on my Ford flare side and they are oil canning bad! I need to try this method. I was using map gas and I think it was making it worse.

Thanks for answering my question on the cam button and the retainer plate. My question is the timing chain set. With an OE Step-Nose cam, I have seen some after market double-roller sets have a Torrington bearing or thrust washer on the cam gear that rolls on the thrust plate between the cam gear. GM uses a single roller chain with no bearing or thrust plate and no buttons needed, just a plate on the 502. What did you use for timing components? Thanks in advance?

Luke thank you fort encouraging me to tackle the oil canning area in the bonnet (hood) of my 66 Jaguar E-Type (XKE) restoration. I was quoted 3-4K from local restoration shop and a new part is over 3K. Your method worked flawlessly in about an hour. The hood is now tight and solid and ready for a thin coat of filler. Kudos!

Great video mate

Hello, I'm looking to add an oil cooler to my gen V big block. Can I just put a 3/8ths to 10an for plugs on C and D and put my oil cooler in-between those lines or do I need to install that special oil cooler line connector adapter in C? Because I can't find any long enough hose with that special hose end to fit my application. Just running AN lines would be perfect. Thank you for your help!!

I have a .479 intake lift and .465 exhaust lift. How would I determine the lift to use as a measurement for pushrods length?

watched vid and in process of building up a Gen v 454, put both bypasses in, put on new melling high presure pump, when priming it has low oil pressure, 15psi, thoughts are the pressure valve in pump is stuck open, will remove pump and inspect, valve, , so if I plugged oil cooler ports, even though there is a bypass valve, I should still have pump pressure?

Sisbyou have to tune it?

Hi Lukas. I am building a Mark IV / Gen VI 454. I want to include an oil cooler. I heard you say that originally the engines came with 10lb bypass valves in both "A" & "B", but then I heard you say that if you were to run a cooler, you would change them both to 30lb bypass valves. I just want to confirm with you that this is what you would do if it were you. I want to do what you would do. Thanks, Brett....

Hello Lukas, hope all is well. I’ve gone through all the steps and now my Holley starts up and does not die immediately. When I’m in park the IAC now stays at 20%, driving around town it’s fluctuates but usually is at 9%. My question is after you have adjusted the throttle you don’t physically show the steps. So I was a little confused as to when I remove the tape. Do I cycle the engine off and then remove? Or am I supposed to blip the accelerator a few times wait for it to come back up to idle RPM and then remove tape with vehicle on? I believe I missed a step somewhere because the IAC is supposed to be at 0%, if I’m not mistaken. BTW my truck runs good so I’m hesitant to mess with it. Thanks.

I have a 1969 Chevelle Malibu that the hood sticks shut on. I believe I need to replace the latch assemble on the front. The latch appears to be loose and the when I pull the lever to open the hood doesn't pop up like it used to. Because of this, I believe the spring is worn out. Can you show me what I need to do to fix this?

I need 8 tappets for a 30 yo diesel engine (Westerbeke) but none can be found. Are there businesses that could/would make them for a relatively reasonable cost?

Would the rocker arms be loose if the tappets are not primed

noticed that a few folks make this mod to the dual plane intake and that helps the iac do a better job. th-cam.com/video/sl9p8bEJSFg/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=EricTheCarGuy

Nice vid. I have the same hinges on my 72 Chevelle. How did you roll the lip on your firewall because my hood is hitting mine? Thanks

Excellent. Thank you for sharing your expertise!

3yrs buddy……where’s the update??

How are the cowl vent covers? I saw some reviews say they didn’t line up well.

I can’t get my bypass valve b out. How do you do it?

Is the oil cooler necessary.

Do you mind sharing the part number of the disk brake kit you used?

Tack för hjälpen ! äntligen förstår ja 😎👍

SIR ...IS THERE A **TEMPERATURE BYPASS BETWEEN PORT C and PORT D ??? ***

Million dollar question - should you install lifters bled out allowing a little play or fully primed, hard as a rock?

Did your cam plate fit over the outside radius I purchased one on Amazon knowing it was abad idea this is what I got is it wrong

, you are brilliant

When that tapping voice happens,,what would happen if the tappets are not checked right away?