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Do you already have, or would you perhaps make a Cobra Racing sticker pack? Doing a full slash build with CR parts and would love to have brand stickers for the body.

Are these a drop in fit for the rustler 4x4? Also do I need to add diff grease?

Just found this channel and def love cobra racing guys upgrade advice, he seems to know a of knowledge on RC ! ✅

What up upgrade do u have for the rustler ultament

So you can’t buy that nice handle on it’s own? That stopped me from purchasing. Was gonna buy the set and an extra handle so I had 2 tools ready at any given time.

Very cool. Been sitting on the fence about the wide Xmaxx kit. Considering I also have the xrt. But this is a nice in between. A set ordered. Thank you.

A diff sends power to where the wheels spin the easiest, not the other way around. This is why you need locks for offroading. If your rear is spinning, more power goes there, not less. It's also why a center diff will let you hold both front or both rear wheels still, because power will go to the other axle.

(Good) thermal paste is too expensive to use for this application . Not recommended. Heat sink fan and proper gearing will never let you down

No, it usually snap on the pin hole and easy wearing in joint and drive cup on my slash with only 3S.

I do have the same upgrades only not aluminum I'm working on my Traxxas slash 4x4 bl-2s ultimate build and you forgot one upgrade tsm 😁👍🏻 for the next up level but I must say the aluminum upgrade parts are looking great 😎👍🏻🙏🏻 I'm going too look into those parts 😁😎👍🏻🙏🏻🤞🏻🇳🇱

I dont normally comment on videos, I have to ask. What makes These "Better" compared to stock, i understand the aluminum housings help with strength and heat but just over double the cost of oem. Newer to the hobby and building/upgrading a 4x4 slash VXL and wanted to ask. Thank you CobraRacing

You have it for the raptor r 4x4

can this fit a slash 4x4 on front and rear?

How u doing and how much is both parts

This will work good at a motor you showed, but not on one with integrated cooling fins, like most Hobbywing.

Rad, I will have to get a new fan soon✌️

Thank you for all of your great information videos...👍👍👍🏁🏁🏁🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲

Awesome advice. Nice 👍🏾💯🔥

Awesome stuff can't to see them in action and i wonder if those turnbuckles would fit an XO-1 cause i might be interested in a set for my car.

Cool, I bought a pair of your slash 4x4 aluminum diffs for my XO-1 project earlier this month and i like them can't install them yet but so far they look and feel great quality. I might buy these aluminum arms for my XO-1 next since my car is still on the old brittle stock arms and i'm between these aluminum arms or the Traxxas HD arms.

No I need 5 mm axle thread my ground pounder axle thread are 5 mm not 4 mm like others

I need d 5 mm then do you have them

You need some orange diff covers

How much

Those look nice✌️

Awesome

The fact that we can see the shock piston become air bound about a quarter inch from bottoming out proves the commenter's from the previous video right beyond the shadow of a doubt. The laws of physics also tell me the vehicle you put those shocks on has a bad tendency to pogo stick after big jumps and on rough terrain, i know from experience exactly how any vehicle will handle with shocks set up that way and learned through trial and error that it is objectively wrong. That seal blows out from under the cap upon hard landings when the shocks have air on both sides of the badder. Also you can tell that at least there is less air on the wrong side of the bladder by how much slower the shock piston extends after compression in this video vs the previous one. I'm only say this because I learned the hard way that this doesn't work well or last long, if you want to find out the hard way too at least we can both say we share this experience, i hope you learn from it too.

Subbed , I started rc a year ago with a kraton , built one. Turned to speed runs built a few. So now I just moved to a city so I bought a losi mini b to race on carpet and I’m realizing I don’t truly know much about …. Well much lol (shocks , etc)

The oil inside the shock is to control the harmonics of the spring.

Love the company

I think its a personal preference when it comes to setting up shocks and suspensions. I see people using and doing all kinds of different things with their set ups when we go out crawling on the trails, bashing at the parks and in the pits at the tracks. I have determined that there really is no right or wrong way of doing it, just try it all and do what works for you✌️

The amount of rebound you would want all depends on vehicle, set up and track conditions if I’m correct hint why there’s different shock spring ratios and shock oil thicknesses then again I am not a expert and I know that there’s a lot of tips and tricks that professionals don’t tell like I’ve seen some that put shocks upside down. And I for one enjoy your videos

See part 2 follow up video here: th-cam.com/video/Qyk5WKJOLT0/w-d-xo.html

Pretty sure the rebound is from not bleeding your shock. All that air and pressure inside is causing the rebound. Thicker fluid just makes the piston move slower. Just do it right and buy heavier springs if you want this affect

Rebound??.. sorry not the best!!. Our's, debound setup is far better!🎉

Mix 50wt shock oil with gear oil that's equivalent to 2,000wt?😵‍💫Nobody should do this, not even bashers and especially not racers.

hou to pot on car

If I wanna put these in my rustler 4x4 do I need any other parts? Having trouble with the rear do I need to get metal spider gears? Looking for help lol

the mind of a traxxas basher😂 good way to make your shocks leak

Great review 👍

Most racers goal is little or no rebound but if thats what you want, your way is much less consistent and repeatable than tuning with pistons, oil and springs.

Yup . Crazy as promised.

A correct assembly of the shocks where you bleed them out properly will never provide the "rebound" you speak of 😅 does not matter what wt oil you mix. This is just a video of an unproper shock bleed assembly 😂

A arms need to be plastic to bend and flex on these model rc cars. Hit it hard enough on aluminum the aluminum will bend or break ur next plastic weakest link.... that's why in modern vehicle have crumble zones and break point when in accident.

Yeah you can get that exact rebound from not bleeding the air out of the shick that's all that is is air on top of the oil because he didn't compress the shock pushing the air out then tightening the cap there's a rubber bladder in that cap that expands and that were you get rebound

hou to set it in the car

Man...I watched this video, this is a rad trick✌️ then went to just check out your website to see what you have.....ended up ordering shocks I don't need shocks but the green look nice... I need to learn to stop looking...haha

No offense ,but …Nobody bashing wants their shocks doing that. Thats why bleeders/emulsion setups is preferable. To make getting rid of that rebound on compression. Maybe for racing ,yeah. Idk ,cuz i don’t race . But that “HACK” of yours is what most old school bashers consider as a fail. Lol. Thinner oil will give you that rebound . Btw. I’m probably your age or older.

Thanks . I guess there’s no wrong way to do shocks in that having the rebound push out or not at all or just a little . I like the rebound way making sure it fully compresses . Thanks for the diff oil tip . I’ve used Lucas engine treatment in 3s Arrma shocks with success . Chain saw bar oil is very thick too . I use 70-90 wt in my big jumpers with M2c pistons seems to alleviate that big bounce after landing to a little hop or a perfect stick many times . Especially landing on a slope . It’s fun to mess with the shocks and tires and feel the difference . Sometimes it’s a huge change , sometimes it’s not 😂. It’s always fun though . Happy holidays 🐍

I bought a set of these and can't get them to fit with the knuckle set you guys have for the slash 4x4