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Yes, for an indirect injection diesel

Yup, that's the case with almost all replacement parts these days. It's very difficult to find anything that is equal, let alone superior in quality. Notice in the text intro that I was surprised that it actually even fit. That's how low the standards are on these kinds of parts. I got it easy because I made it easy. It's actually not that difficult to remove everything to get good access. The first time can be a bear because of frozen bolts but after it's done and anti-seize is used to re-mount, it's even easier. There are no gaskets from the factory. I can't remember the reason why but gaskets can blow out easily under certain conditions and become a pain in the butt, so why bother with the time and frustration? If you have used them in the past and they work, keep using them. If there is room to install after studs are put in, I can't see any reason why not. Thanks for the questions, Peter!

@SixFiveTurboGaragecom I would use the studs to hold the gasket.Did you use a sealant of any type.Did you prepare the surface ? File the faces ? Does it have a lot of foot pounds on the manifold bolts ? Sorry for the many questions. I m always curious to see how to avoid mistakes. I hate doing things over.

@@peterwill3699 No sealant. This video wasn't made as an installation video since my old manifold was still good, it was just made to show the new one and show how it fit. That's a good point though that the new manifold may not be made to as good of tolerances that the old one was. When the time comes for me to install permanently, I would run a file or some sand paper on something flat over the mating surfaces. At first just lightly to check flatness, and then more if it needs to be made flat. I still would prefer this over using gaskets. As for torque, although I prefer to torque things down to proper specs, if I didn't have the numbers handy, I wouldn't worry about this one, just reef on it good and get it nice and tight. (Btw, it's 26 ft/lbs)

Still here! A lot of stuff going on and hope to get back at it at some point. If all goes well, it'll be next summer.

Ahhh i found your comment here too, i see what you mean

I Looked all over the web and couldn't find any suggestions for my sloppy shifter, so what I found thought it was worth sharing.

@@gc3022 i have not looked yet but i imagine you have to push the pins in into the direction of the rear of the truck?

Awesome, thanks for that!

The wire didn't hold up, bought a 4"hose clamp, going to try that now

Ha! I love it. The garage part is referring to you being able to do the work in your own garage but that's hilarious.

You bet, glad it helped!

To be honest with you, telling that to someone who has ran them successfully for 20 years makes you sound like a total moron.

Oh, she's running strong! Believe it or not, I still plan on finishing the videos and articles at some point, there were some major events that pulled me away and I just need things to mellow out a bit so I can concentrate on getting them out. I got it rebuilt with a few mods along the way and now it's running very well with an A-Team turbo, Feed the Beast mod, maxed out DB2 pump (with a much bigger one planned), water/methanol, and a bunch of other goodies that I'll cover in more detail.

Thank you sir! What are your questions?

@@SixFiveTurboGaragecom first off thanks,in just your opinion am j getting close to a rebuild given the miles and this being a light duty diesel or do these things usually chug along pretty well?

If I was in your position, I would start building a new motor right away while you keep running that one. But I may be in a different situation, I need my truck on the road all the time. I would start sourcing all the parts now, get it built and installed, then I would rebuild the old one and have it sitting there in case I needed a spare (I'm actually working towards that exact thing right now). To be clear, contrary to some opinions, these motors do last a long time. I mean, look at yours for crying out loud. Don't listen to the ignorant morons that that think that these things blow up easily. My problem is that I can be an ignorant moron and blow up my engines myself! So if I have a spare, I can get it installed in a day and be back on the road. If you can be without your truck for a time, then do your research first, collect all the parts, and then pull the engine to rebuild. Or, drive her till she dies and then rebuild, it depends on what you can manage.

Thanks, ok I just started tearing down a 599 block that is a complete engine but sat outside for a year and everything is rusted is it still a good block?

What size socket to remove the head bolts? 22mm?

Impossible to say without seeing them but if it's just a all crack, I'd run them. If the part fails, pieces will be sucked into the cylinder and likely jammed up between the piston and head. If they aren't imbedded into one of those, it will be shot out the exhaust. Not a good situation but I and many others have had glow plugs self destruct and sucked into the cylinder and she kept running fine.

Tom, the first and best thing you can do to get great power and reliability out of these motors is completely ignore what "they" say. The diesel world is full of egos, bro science, and ignorance. There are motors out there with over 600,000 miles on them, some with over 500HP, some doing serious tractor pulls, and many doing regular towing on a daily basis. Are they as good in some ways as a Cummins? No. They were never built to be. But does that mean they are on the other extreme and complete garbage? Again, no. That's where the egos, bro science, and ignorance comes in.

I'm sorry but it's impossible for me to tell with a little information. Run it by the guys at the truck stop, they are much better at long distance troubleshooting... www.thetruckstop.us/forum/

Glad to help, that's the goal!

That's actually a great idea. While they are out, give them a layer of undercoating, easy!

It's held up ok. I had some trouble with the throw out bearing but that's just the crappy state of parts these days. (Even the name brand AC Delco). The tranny itself has shifted decently. Only occasionally feeling like it didn't want to slide into gear, but I'm happy with the performance with no major issues. Overall, it's certainly not the best rebuild but it was the cheapest and you get what you pay for. To be clear though, as I explained in my article, I had also ordered an iron nose cone and one other upgrade that I can't remember and didn't get either one so that to me is either total incompetence or plain thievery. Either way, I'll never buy from them again.

Hey Ryan, it's good to hear from you. I've been able to make some time to put into the articles and plan to put more into it and videos to finish off the build series this year so stay tuned. And thanks for hanging around!

Everything is worth something. A well running 6.5 with a manual transmission sounds well worth the time and effort to keep maintained and used.

Yessir. It can take a bit of maneuvering after all the bolts are out but if you keep at it, it'll come out.

Hey Marvin, that's hard to say, I've never had to deal with that before. Try running it by the guys at The Truck Stop Forum, maybe someone there has and they are way better at long distance trouble shooting than I am. www.thetruckstop.us/forum/

Thank you sir!

Wow, that sounds like a pretty cool combination. While you're going through all the trouble of getting rings, maybe see about having them shipped to Total Seal for their gapless ring conversion? It's pretty cheap ($10 or so per ring last time I looked) and really helps with keeping the oil clean among other things. www.totalseal.com/ring-request

This was just a mock up to check the fit. I'm still running my original manifold. I wanted to grab this one because they kept disappearing off the market and also because many people were needing one so I wanted to get a video out so they could see it up close. As for the crossover, I think it was just the camera angle that made it look off so much but even so, where they mount together has a slight articulation so a slightly different angle will still seal. If the manifold bolts have never been off, you can expect to take some time in there with some possible broken bolts so plan accordingly. Afterwards, always use anti-seize and you'll likely not have any problems again. I'm not sure why no gaskets were specified except that that's the way they were from the factory and I have heard on numerous occasions that leaks often formed after installing gaskets. Besides, if both surfaces are flat, not should be needed.

High temp ultra copper gasket maker can be added if you want.

Nope. I was a while back but I'm long gone.

Sounds like a solid plan. And cheap is relative. If done right, that thing oughta last a long time and you'll more than make your money back.

Because that's where the stock one is. I run two.

It's a '93. And you really don't want to see the inside. Not pretty. Actually, I'm usually pretty good at keeping it in decent shape and I do have a few interesting goodies inside so maybe I will some day. Thanks for the suggestion!

Absolutely. The only thing that should stop anyone from powder coating exhaust is cost. It can make them basically last forever. Great idea!

Nope, didn't forget. I've never had to with the older setup that I had, it just purged all the air over time. When I switched over to the newer setup here, www.65turbogarage.com/stop-65-overheating.html, I did have a much harder time purging all the air.

Nope. All 6.5's are 195* from factory.