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Excellent video.

Great video. Can you expand on this topic to the procedures for setting building stakeout elevation with the level. Proposed grades. Keep the videos coming. They are really helpful.

01:25 I can accept rounding to the nearest hundredth but estimation seems fraught with problems. I saw a method of doing this not too long ago that basically made rounding errors all but cancel out. In your example, you have rounding errors of +.004, -.003, and -.002 for a total of -.001. That doesn't seem unreasonable. Yeah, this specific case, but still... (I'm from an engineering background and the practice in a lot of areas is that you never try to estimate beyond the precision of the gradations of your instrument because you can never do so accurately. Even mathematical interpolation is often frowned upon.)

You forgot to add, after placing the target, going back to the level to make sure you positioned it properly. I'll also mention that a method of getting that last thou or two can be to turn your leveling screws all in the same direction a quarter or half turn or something to use them to slightly lift and lower the instrument.

How often do you go through your instruments to make sure they are in calibration? Do you like schedule an annual "Equipment Check and Refresher Day" for all the guys in the office once a year or what?

Perfection is the standard because you care about the quality of the work. No one aspires to mediocrity.

I have an interest in vintage instruments. Ever consider doing a video series on how things used to be done? Like, say, best practices and accuracy of a 1 minute theodolite, chaining old school, etc?

Is it always necessary to use a penetration to accomplish this? (and what method do you use to ensure your penetration will be directly above your lower floor bench mark?)

When you did update to the point (as the yellow mark appeared) how can you restore the delete points? 8-6-2024

What would you include in a resume that really stands out? I want to move up in position from Rodman to crew chief. I know almost everything there is to know thanks to my crew chief. however I don’t want to waste my youth waiting for someone to step down especially when I see constant mistakes being done from the instrument man along with other people which I find really really easy and simple. I want to be put to the test, And I want to show people how much better I can do the job. right now I’m doing construction surveying But I would love to move to a bigger company with better pay and more opportunities to grow. I live in Dallas Texas if anyone has any recommendations please let me know

Anyone have videos or classes on how the office person calculates points? Or read plan sheets what else it there to learn on auto-cad

Can you please do a video of how to figure the height of an object using a theodolite. 🙏

how to operate total station

Awesome ❤

Great job sir ❤ keep educating us

How can I get a set of those sheets ?

can you make a video about how to become a crew chief

Man... never ever ever take your hand off the handle until its threaded. If you think holding the tribrach is good enough, I've got construction sites that beg to differ.

Excelente información. 👍👍

The method in this video works, but takes too long (IMHO) because lots of surveyors want to utilize the optical plummet of an instrument before it is leveled true. First, this video shows a "wide enough" stance, where I see a lot of people who set up this way end up with the tripod base that is very narrow. By "this way" I am referring to a setup procedure that includes at some point, looking thru an optical plummet that is not plumb/level. Those narrow set ups (the one in this video not included, it is fine) can "blow over" especially working along an interstate highway and set up in the breakdown lane on asphalt. So, first, I suggest a setup with the height pretty much as in this video (relative to your own eye height and the terrain) but the legs even further apart for a wider stance (video setup is very good, but wider is even better). There is no reason (95% of situations) to not have a maximally stable stance. That being said, the following method will get you set up in sixty seconds or less nine times out of ten. This setup time begins only when you are more or less at or very near the setup point. 1. Extend a leg to your preferred length (I suggest a couple tenths longer than was done in this vid, (becuz even more stability), and then drop the other two legs to the same length. 2. Place the tripod somewhere and attach your instrument to it (this step is only needed at your first setup, but every setup if you box your instrument between setups). I transport my instrument between setups on its tripod, and I carry the assembly upright, so as not to stress the total stations structural parts. 3. Place one leg an appropriate (educated guess) distance from the setup point, and take the other two legs in your hands about midway down each leg. Open the legs so that they are splayed to either side of you, in more or less the desired angle with the tripod head ROUGHLY eyeballed as level. 4. By eye, imagine a plumb line passing through the instrument, and move yourself and the two loose legs so that imagined plumb line also passes through the leg that is touching the ground AND the setup point. That is, you are moving the two loose legs, and your head and body and the instrument, so that your eye, the opposite fixed leg and the instrument are all somewhere on that imagined plumb line that also passes thru the setup point. 5. Set down the two legs you were holding and moving, taking care to keep the tripod head roughly level (roughly, don't bother looking at the bubbles). 6. With all three legs on the ground walk around the setup a third of the way, and note that, from this new vantage point between a different pair of legs, an imaginary plumb line passing thru the opposite leg and the instrument DOES NOT pass thru the setup point (unless you got lucky). 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. You should notice that each time you do steps 4 and 5, the tripod head will get closer and closer to being roughly over the setup point. Almost always, two to three iterations is all you need to get the tripod head "close enough" so that the legs need not be shifted further. 7. Use your body weight to firmly plant all three legs, exactly as shown in this video 8. Take your plumb bob/gammon reel (if you have one) and hold it under the center of the tripod, and note where the tripod head center is relative to the setup point. Put another way, which way does the tripod head need to go to be over the point? DO NOT look thru the optical plummet at this point. DO NOT use the laser dot at this point if you have one. Those things used at this point will throw you off, because the instrument hasn't been leveled yet. If you don't have a plumb bob, just skip this step. If you do have a plumb bob, move the tripod head closer over the point by slightly shortening and/or lengthening one or two of the legs. This video shows explains that part very well. The goal is to get the tripod head within a tenth of a foot (30mm) of its final location. If you skip this step, you may or may not need to shorten or lengthen a leg during the next step 9. Level the instrument using the three leveling screws, and ONLY THEN look thru the optical plummet. Slide the instrument across the tripod head so that it is directly over the point. (or shorten/lengthen legs and then do that) 10. Check that you are still level after shifting the instrument position on the tripod. If not level, repeat step 9. 11. Rotate the optical plummet to the opposite side of the instrument, recheck the level bubbles and then the optical plummet. Problems then? Your instrument is out of adjustment. Everything checks? Your setup is done. IMPORTANT NOTE: One advantage of this system is the time saved by not having to constantly keep the tripod head approximately level so that you can kinda sorta rely on the optical plummet or laser. I only need to keep the head level enough so that the instrument can eventually be leveled. This procedure is really hard to explain in text form, but easy to teach in person. It is VERY fast, even on a slope or when setting up over a "tall point" (something like a nail in a tallish tree stump). Why did I bother to type this up? I get very frustrated watching people set up using optical plummets or laser dots that aren't plumb, and taking five or six minutes to set up a total station. Finally, it took me a very long time to type this, but this procedure is very fast. It makes a huge difference if you have a lot of setups, and doesn't matter if you set up very few times per day. I hope someone finds this rant useful......

Thanks

A video detailing transferring building grid lines to multiple floors would be great ! Any future books planned?

This is extremely helpful! Newbie trying to learn.

How to mark concrete column in the next floor from the previous floor, would you mind to make a video?

Not only your work is perfect, your videos as well. Simple, educational and fun. Just brilliant!

I thought the new videos were over with. Great to see new content. Thank you for your videos.

Good to see you back! Great video as always!

I never had a building with holes lined up on every floor like that

Thanks a lot

Excellent demonstration.

I would love to have a copy of this sheets can you provide a copy or can I buy a copy of you

Just a quick question, what exactly is the meaning of "accuracy" on a theodolite manual. To be specific the Futtura Dt10 states accuracy 20" 10" it was written exactly like that with a couple of spaces between 20 and 10.. thats mostly feet they are referring to right?

thank u very much for doing exactly what I was looking for

We built high risers so anything under .002 was good enough except embeds or anything like that

I was taught to zero the digital level out so there will be no error when back sighting

Ehats the lv name

Please good afternoon, I'm from Ghana 🇬🇭,i just complete S.H.S And i want to learn this machine what should I do please

when checking design elevatio you accidentally put 1207.87 instead of 1202.87 at 3:22

i absolutely fell in love with surveying thanks bro

After you strike the hub on face 2 90 where do you set the rod? On the strike from face 1, 2, or in the center? Since you didn’t change your zero after striking the hub on face 2 your line would be off if you set the rod in the center or on face 1 strike?

How do you know where to mark on the wall with nothing projecting on it?

Awesome i just began surveying this was a lot of help.

your videos are AWESOME very detailed and easy to follow thank you.

nice chainman rings could be tack holders!

I love this move it really teaches me to my understanding

Use a domed head tripod.

Clear and easy to understand explanation.

I'm actually learning something! I need survey equipment to figure out how far over the hill I am, but some of this is actually starting to make sense. Seriously, your content is thoughtfully done. It's concise, logical and a great learning experience.

I hope the survey would use this step for more knowledge.😊

1:35 What is the purpose of the two sideways V shaped lines in left side of the reticle?