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I do sell the modified baskets to Ireland! Send me an e-mail. Contact form and e-mail is listed on the website.

No balancing. Not "balanced" at the factory. Too many moving parts to balance as an assembly. I did have one customer attempt to have this done....and found NO improvement at all for a LOT of time spent. My practice of centering all parts relative to the gear hub bore and trimming the anti balloon ring on exterior of the aluminum bell does seem to make the clutch baskets WERKS builds smoother than new ones.

I machine the anti-balloon ring smooth on all the baskets I upgrade. So you might be able to get a flashlight and small mirror to look through the oil fill cap hole at the center/anti balloon ring on the basket. If that shows machining marks, it has been modified. There are modified baskets out there done by Sharealike in the UK that won't have this done to them. Some of those are well done, some are not ( main bearing clearance is all over the place with those). Otherwise you would have to pull the clutch cover and pull the clutch pack out. If yoiu see 3 threaded fasteners instead of rivets that clutch basket has been apart. You can also look for a Bronze bushing pressed into the main bearing area.

@@werkspartsllc7856 thank you for all of the information. I might pull off the cover and have a look. Not much else to do during these Iowa winters!

I have shipped my WERKS modified clutch baskets all over the world. I can help with yours too. Just contact my via the contact forms on the website or the e-mail address listed there.

Nothing wrong with the 650 V stroms. I own one. But they are NOT to be compared to the new 1050 for an all around road bike. No comparison in braking, suspension, power, and you can get cruise control on them. Chudder? Well, the newer versions are a bit tighter and take a bit longer to chudder. But the WERKS modifications fix that so it never happens again. Every bike has something that needs fixed, upgraded, or changed. Hell, a new seat costs more than a WERKS modification!

@@werkspartsllc7856 Thank you for the advice and information. 👍 I agree with you and appreciate it.

This is likely due to the hydraulic clutch actuation system being neglected. These are self adjusting....but when not maintained they don't function properly. Flush out the system with fresh fluid and bleed it well. That usually helps and should be done annually.

While the new DL 1050 has basically the same design clutch basket as the first generation DL 1000, there ARE a few improvements. Mainly they tightened up the casting clearances ( takes longer for wear to get to the point noises and vibrations become noticeable) and finally machined the bearing surface of the steel gear ( ground finish instead of rough tooling marks ) so the steel doesn't eat into the aluminum quite as fast. I often see these with well over 20,000 miles now and no real obvious signs of chudder. So, this would in no way keep me from buying one of these bikes. Besides, should it come to needing a clutch basket upgrade, I can fix it so you won't need to do it ever again! All bikes have some inherent issues. This one is figured out and an easy fix.

@@werkspartsllc7856 Hey thank you very much for your response. I have been researching this bike for a long time and your advice really helps me in my decision to buy one. I kept hearing about the clutch basket problems here and there in video comments and then found your video. Thanks again, much appreciated.

Glad you enjoyed it! Not often you get to inspect something like this. BTW, the bike this came out of now has about 438,000 miles on it. Engine has never been apart!

You do have to drain the oil and coolant. But you don't remove the engine. Simply remove the "clutch cover". In fact you don't even need to remove the water pump. "Peening" is the process of indenting a metal part to lock it in position. The clutch hub nuts are "peened" where the nut flange overhangs the grooves in the transmission input shaft. This keeps the nut from backing off. For removal you have to lift this peened down area to remove the nut. Then, once tightened, you peen down an area above the groove/slot in the transmission shaft to again lock it into place.

Go to the website www.werksparts.com first. Look over the details to learn about what is going on. It also covers the 3 ways to get the WERKS upgrades for your 2003 Vee. There is an installation video and an FAQ page that will answer many questions. Then send an e-mail to info@werksparts.com with further questions and if ready to proceed send shipping info and what parts you need.

Are you sure the clutch is slipping? Does the tachometer rpms raise quickly when this happens? If so then there are two areas to look into. First is the clutch slave cylinder and pushrod that goes into the input shaft of the transmission ( in front of the front sprocket). Those can get covered in oil, grease, and road debris and cause the piston in the slave and the pushrod to stick. This does not allow full pressure from the pressure plate. Next is the slipper assembly. 2014 and up have a slipper inner hub design. I don't have much experience with them, but if there is a broken part or something out of place it could cause this too.

Did you solve the slipping problem? I started to have it, too, and I'm not sure what to do...

@@eugenemorozov Slipping isn't part of a clutch basket problem. Typically that is going to be caused by a pushrod not returning properly, or a slave cylinder not retracting fully under certain conditions. Aftermarket clutch levers are a known cause of causing slipping too.

@@eugenemorozov Below is my update-answer from the fb group Vstrom 1050. I tried the bike today,on a long ride on twisty b roads ,pushing the 3rd and 4th gear hard all the time,up to the rev limiter. Thi slippage completely disappeared,making me even more angry for the local Suzuki's technicians. I need to have two words with them also 🤬 The problem was the clutch's push rod.All this sh*t glogged the clutch and wasn't fully returning when releasing the clutch, resulting clutch slipping. The amount of the debris,old grease, road filth in the area was incredible. When I took it to the dealer and I told him that this might be the reason for the clutch slippage,they looked at me like the cow in the field watching the trains passing by 🤣🤣🤣 .They only changed (and charged) the clutch fluids and then suggested that I pay and change the clutch disks.The bike has 14.000km of extremely easy riding... I hope the clutch stops slipping now 😀 If anyone tries this,be careful of the rubber "sock" that protects the cylinder from the debris (it can be cut easily if not careful) ,and drain out all the clutch fluid as the cylinder will pop out if you don't...

@@werkspartsllc7856 EXACTLY ❤️

I did exactly the same after owning an 2016 dl1000. It developed an horrible an chudder. And mechanic told that it was normal. Sold it.... I will never buy Suzuki again.

Nothing wrong with upgrading the clutch baskets in the 2014+ DL 1000/1050. These typically go longer before developing chudder than the first gen bikes...usually closer to 20,000 miles. So you have time to decide if you want to get the upgrade done.

The DL 650 is a completely different design. No problems with those!

Most any motorcycle shop ( Independent shops as well as Suzuki and some other brands ) will be glad to do an installation of a WERKS modified clutch basket. You will simply have to contact those in your area to find one you feel comfortable with. Typically they are going to charge 2-3 hours labor to do this job. I sell a lot of new OEM baskets with WERKS modifications to international customers. No return shipping or shipping your basket to me required. Take as much time as needed to install them. Currently a new OEM SV 1000 clutch basket with Standard Level build service costs $655 US. Add $75 shipping to Europe to that ($730 US total shipped ).

@@werkspartsllc7856 me puede proporcionar algun nombre o pagina web donde yo pueda encontrar lo que necesito?busque por España pero no hay nada.

@@werkspartsllc7856 Can you provide me with a name or web page where I can find what I need? I searched for Spain but there is nothing.

@@aurelianborici8077 Lo siento, pero no tengo contactos ni nadie que pueda recomendar para la instalación. Terry

@@werkspartsllc7856 I need the piece rectified in its entirety for you, the assembly will be done in my workshop. I just need you to do the work of eliminating all the gaps. or exchange my piece for one that you already have rectified, paying you all the work. Can you do it? Thank you

All the DL 1000-1050 baskets are "interchangeable". I use the 31Y11 and 31Y20 clutch baskets when I sell the new OEM modified baskets to all DL customers. I do prefer them over the older design, but they do NOT fix chudder or main bearing wear. I simply like the heavier top spring plate on them....

Rivets are ok for a high production facility watching costs closely. They can have one machine set up to do the riveting with little labor or cost involved. High strength threaded fasteners take more time, labor, and money to use. Casting must be threaded. Threaded fasteners are more expensive to purchase or make. more labor involved to start the threads and torque them to a specification. The downfall to rivets is that they are a softer steel. The must be to allow the expansion of one end to seal the rivet in place. Rivets do not hold the parts together with the same compression strength that a threaded fastener can and does. So there will be an amount of "fretting" from the not so tight fit between these parts. Cost of fasteners isn't a big part of the cost of building a WERKS clutch basket. The fact that the threaded fasteners I use have both a higher compression tension loading AND a higher shear force rating is the main reason they are used over rivets. I could set up a press to rivet these, or like some weld on them to finish them, but the fact is that the threaded fastener is a better, stronger, and more precise way of reassembling these clutch baskets.

I have shipped many baskets to Washington over the years! There seems to be a really big V Strom following in that state. So, yes I do ship there.

@@werkspartsllc7856 oh sweet do I need to send you the current one is in my vee ?

@@noedelacruz5910 You can send in your current basket. Usually takes one business day for the modifications. I also have an exchange program where I ship you a basket built on a good used core. You install that one and ship back your old one as the core. Last, I have new OEM baskets that have had the full WERKS modifications done to them.

I have a 2020 1050 with 30 000kms..roughly 18 000 miles. Just did a run to the arctic circle. The basket makes horrible noise. I'm in the east coast of Canada. Can you ship to me?

Idle Hammer is not related to the clutch basket. Some might think it is, as idle hammer will soften or go away sometimes on some bikes when you pull in the clutch lever. BUT....that only changes the load on the crankshaft ( which is what makes the idle hammer noise ). Clutch chudder is a vibration in these bikes in the 2500-4000 rpm range mainly. It can be a rather harsh vibration actually causing body panels to vibrate! There are also noises associated with worn baskets. A tinny sounding metallic slapping noise at idle is a common sign the inner plate ( as shown in this video ) is loose and slapping back and forth.

Even so...the 650's to on occasion require clutch plate replacement. Usually due to incorrect adjustment, but if used hard off road they can be short lived too. This isn't a 650, but they have a similar setup so many things still apply.

Thank you! When I set out to do this video I was getting e-mails or calls about every day from owners having issues with clutch basket installation. The video dropped that to maybe 5 times a month! So I know it helps and I am glad to help. I need to do one on the later 2014 and up models.

this is the single most helpful video on clutch baskets in the internet. Is there a lot of difference for the 2014+ models ? it will be great if you do :)

@@danielfalin Aside from the difference in the body work and getting to the radiator cap and reservoir tank, the only real difference is in the inner hub assembly. The 2014+ DL 1000 has a very nice "slipper or back torque limiting" hub/pressure plate assembly. These give a MUCH lighter lever pull and have some other benefits as well. So far they seem to hold up well, but these models are much more sensitive to having the hydraulic clutch components working in tip top shape. They are known to have some issues with the plates dragging even with the clutch lever pulled in.

@@werkspartsllc7856 Hoping to get some advice. On the highway wide open throttle, my clutch is slipping. Only 18k miles on bike. I have already cleaned the rod behind slave cylinder, as this was all gunked up. Are there other adjustments that I can try before calling the clutch done?

@@rocketj7449 Assuming this is an SV or DL 1000...Have you installed aftermarket levers? Those are a VERY common cause of clutch slippage problems. Cleaning the pushrod is good. Checking it for straightness is good too! Next up is the slave cylinder. These can get gunked up too. Which causes them to not fully retract....and the clutch slips. If it is corroded/gunked badly I would replace it. Some that have a good piston and bore can be rebuilt...but the cost for the kit isn't too cheap and the whole assembly isn't really high in cost.

Andy, I rather doubt your noises are associated with the clutch basket. Two things to remember. First is that when you pull in the clutch lever , the clutch basket does NOT stop turning! It is mechanically connected to the crankshaft gear and if the engine is turning, so is the clutch basket. Second is that there are a lot more bearings, gears, and shafts spinning in the transmission that slow or stop when you pull in the clutch lever. Even with a modified basket, it will always be a bit quieter when you pull in the clutch lever. All those rotating parts make a bit of noise and slowing or stopping some of them simply makes less noise. Transmission bearing issues are almost non existent on these bikes. I would listen to another DL 650 to see how it sounds. I suspect your noises are quite normal!

I cannot say what the "whine" is without listening to it. But it can be any number of things. I highly doubt it is coming from the clutch basket. The DL 650 is a completely different design and shows virtually none of the issues the design of the DL 1000 can give. Under load....tends to make me think it is simply gear meshing noise.

@@werkspartsllc7856 I wasnt sure if it was a bearing related issue, ive only just got the bike so still learning about its 'quirks' :), thanks for replying

Not a catastrophic failure! At that mileage it is just getting bad and will get worse. But they don't explode or cause you to trailer it home. Call it performance or comfort, but it changes how you ride the bike. You miss the rpm range where these bikes really shine by keeping them above 4000 rpm. You can install a new OEM basket, but once you know what chudder feels like you will see it start in by 10,000 miles most of the time. Install a WERKS modified basket and you should never need to worry about your clutch again.

@@werkspartsllc7856 Thanks!

New OEM baskets do have some movement. Side by side you would still see that the new one is a lot tighter. But compare a WERKS modified basket and you will see it is very difficult to find any play in the assembly. What movement there is would be simply loading the first stage spring!