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Glad everyone is okay! How long did it take after the fluid flush before the abs turned on?

AISIN not Aisen... Might want to re-upload with the correct name so more people can find the video if they're searching for it.

*Aisin. Pickup 8 speeds every week.

I like the pressure bleeder more than the vacuum bleeder since it's less risky ajd you're less likely to allow air to enter the brake lines.

This job is meant to be done with a bidirectional scanner. It is an easy job with the right tool

Thanks for information on bleeding sequence. I have a Subaru Impreza. What is your opinion on reverse bleeding?

I'm late to the party, but quickly got caught-up. Engine bay turned out amazing. On the cylinder inspection shots we got a glimpse of a very nice factory-like finish on the value covers. How did you achieve that, Dereck? Keep going! It's a worthy project.

Abrasive action like scrubbing ruins those K/N filters, it tears up the fibers and makes the already big holes even bigger. I'd just go back to a Fleet Guard filter, because that K/N filter will dust your motor for sure.

This is great. I just bought a 74 450 slc. It won’t start and it’s a fuel issue. Better than you think, there is scarce info

Amazing persistence. I can hear the frustration in your voice.

Further than this guy is going with his road kill!! 😉

Just catching this, I'm tearing down a '79......if you need any engine parts, contact me, I'm not reusing drive train...it all needs to go for cheap!!

What does a restoration like this cost?

Thanks for the video. I made this same mistake and this video helped me fix the problem.

Very grateful to you for making this video. I’ve a 560 that’s been sitting past 14 years. And with close to 0 clue what I’m doing and an imaginary budget 😮‍💨, she’s puppy-dogged me into finally getting her back on the road. Your videos are truly helping me build the courage 🙏🏽

Great job. Thanks for posting your work on this car. The engine bay came out fantastic. Great idea, having the local paint shop mix up the paint and put it in spray cans. This not your first rodeo. Thanks for sharing.

I do like the fact that you hovered over the vacume lines&wireing-all the factory wireing.on my car I failed to repair the fuel injection system,so I made an adapter put a carb on it.also updated it to a home made hei distributor.and yes I kept all the original parts for the next owner,after they pry it from my cold dead hands😅

Awesome fix to both the charcoal canister & the starter😊😊😊😊😊

Now once the whole car is painted, it is going to look 👌🏼 👏 👍🏿

Now that is going to be a ground up restoration, simpy awesome 👌🏼 👏 👍🏿

Awesome rebuild of the 1975 Merceds Benz

Very impressive work.

Bro I had that same problem in one of my vehicles. I think it was in one of my pickup trucks with. With the cigar lighter in it. Ashtray, that folds down. Put all your pocket chain in there. Yup, I made that mistake and I'll never do that again. Never put pocket change in an asterisk or around. It ashtray with an electric cigarette

This was great, thanks!

Nothing you did to that Starter would have fixed the slow / weak cranking ONLY after 4 seconds. Most likely just had a Poor Connection with High Resistance at the Battery Cable Positive Terminal to the Starter Solonoid. Once Again, understanding Electrical Systems are always a Plus before blindly diving into ANY type of Electrical Repair. Better keep on sticking to just repairing your own equipment, at least there shouldn't be any lawsuits that way ... 😏

Once again, remind me why you even have troubled yourself and even wasted ANY minutes of your Life OR the Lives of your viewers by performing this totally unecessary Charcoal Filter task (whatever it actually is) and including all of that savage brutality into the making of this video ? You are aware that this Type of Charcoal Filters are self cleaning, right ? And it's pretty obvious that it's NOT Plugged, nor is it missing any charcoal material ! You really need to learn to understand how these Systems work before you continue this type of brutal neandertal savage butchery with Carpentars Tools. You don't need to include your waiver at the beginning of all of your videos, because it is painfully obvious that you could have never been a professional Mechanic (for very long). These Poor Parts on these Poor Cars do not deserve this type of brutal assault ! What did these Parts or these Cars ever do to you for them to deserve this type of Neandertal handling ? 😏

Remind me again WHY you even flushed the Brake Fluid at all ? Oh, simply because the Maintenance schedule told you that it needed to be Done ? Well, I can tell you one thing - that Fluid most likely has been Flushed once before you actually got to it, because that slight yellow discoloration you pointed out wasn't from 100,000 miles of driving or up to 3 years time. At 3 years old @ 100,000 miles, the fluid would have a slight green tint if anything. Comes from the corrosion from the miniscule percentage of Copper used in the Brake Lines and other Hrdraulic components. Some brake fluid brands look that same shade of yelllow right out of the bottle. So, what I'm telling you is that you wasted over 2.5 hours of your life performing this task that was not even really needed, and I have wasted at least 8.5 minutes of mine by watching this video and commenting on it ... 😏

This makes absolutely no sense at all ! First you said the 30 amp fuse (#5) under the hood was blowing, and that you had to rewire that because it melted the Underhood Fuse Block, but then you said that fuse number 6 was the Power for the Lighter that was allegedly shorted with the 10 penny piece. If this was the case, the 20 Amp Fuse # 6 inside the Car definitely should have been the Fuse that was blowing first, as it allegedly got its power from the 30 Amp Fuse (#5) under the Hood. So, IF this really DID happen this way, the ONLY way would have been for BOTH the 20 Amp Fuse # 6 that was in the Fusebox inside the Car AND the 30 Amp Fuse # 5 that was in the Underhood block to be defective ! The 30 Amp Fuse would have had to have been slightly underated (like, closer to 25 Amps), and the 20 Amp Fuse inside the car was slightly overated (like, closer to 30 Amps) for the 30 Amp Fuse # 5 in the Underhood Fuse Block to blow first ! I'm calling this as I see it, but it seems mighty suspicious, possibly even made up, as why wouldnt you show the part where you allegedly removed the Dime ? Also, I didn't even see ANY arcing at all in the Cigarette Lighter socket, which is definitely a Red Flag. As many 30 Amp Fuses that this Car has Blown, there really should have been some obvious arc welding types of witness marks where the dime was making contact. This all makes me want to call this whole video as Bull Sheets to the wind ! 🤨

Just so you are fully aware, loss of ground will NEVER cause a Fuse to Blow. Impossible - this will cause current draw to be less, NOT more ... Science says so ! 😏

Car was white originally.

En castellano

En castellano

Yup, I fell in to the same exact trap working on our 2017 Outback and went through the same fix as you. I'll be getting a pressure bleeder and work counterclockwise from the get go next time! I'm glad you put this up for the rest of the Subie community.

I just watched your video. Your engine is most likely the original engine. Late 75 engines were produced with climate control (that you have ) and CIS injection. K jetronic stopped sometime in mid to late 75.

Good info to know! I also have a 2021 sport and will need to perform brake flush soon too. A side note, always torque wheels down using the star pattern for an even torque.

I would like videos about thoes other maintenance stuff

Hey brother great work .... for the engine bay you shoukd use a d.a. sander to say the paint off then use grinder or full Sander as needed to clean up the bad spots .....

Untold hours of sanding and prep work. I know it’s been a while since the last episode but sanding is boring so I only left the highlights.

Ayo this da best vid ong😫😫💯💯