that jingle bells bit had me laughing out loud in the middle of the night. thanks for a great video! what it lacks in script it more than makes up for in passion
I really hope you woke up someone and had to explain yourself. "There's this guy, he gets into arguments on thegearpage.net so he takes it out on his guitar... no I'm not watching porn!" I've brought shame to my ancestors, but the fuckers had it coming.
Few weeks ago I bought a Squier CV70 Jag. Since then I just read what and how to change around the bridge and trem plus the neck shim topic. When I bought it I was aware that this (the 14th) will be the most problematic guitar in my collection. I already loaded some shopping carts with my finger on the trigger to buy the recommended parts. You showed me the simple and straight way to solve all these problems. Just mentioning, that few of them didn't even appeared in my case, but paranoia planted by others was stronger than the belief in what I heard and have seen and experienced myself. Thank you. You saved me some time and money.
Awesome! I've been there though. I used to spend a lot of time in forums. I learned a lot, tremendous knowledge to be found, but I also wasted quite some money chasing nonsense. The one thing I wouldn't completely rule out is that some offsets do indeed have less than perfect neck fits (as many guitars do, but these can potentially be more sensitive to that). In those cases, a .25° or in some cases .5° shim, properly cut and fully filling the pocket, might not be an outlandish solution.
@@lonerjuan Thank you very much for this recommendation, too. I am still wondering how can I be shure that I need a shim and what angle should it be? Now looks that I don't need and the only advantage having one is that I should raise the bridge putting more tension on the saddles and strings. By the way, I used conductive brass foil around the bridge legs to avoid free rocking. Deliberately not used plastic tape thuss providing robustness (better resonance, more sustain?). Maybe I should get rid of the brass tape and redo the original free moving state? And last, the blue Loctite 242 for fixing the intonation screws in the saddles and avoiding rattling string noise is on the way.
@@ret01101 I don't have a measurement to determine if a shim is needed, it's more of a feel thing. If it's simply impossible to get some string angle over the bridge with proper action then you need a shim, but it's a case by case thing. If you need it, you can probably tell right away. Keep in mind though the design comes from the Jazzmaster which took the shallow angle philosophy from big jazzboxes which generally have shallow angles (maybe not as shallow as these ones though), jazz being a genre where sustain isn't that big a deal. At least that seems to be the thought behind the original design. I doubt Leo ever imagined what these offsets would end up being used for. Regarding the posts being fixed, I guess it depends on whether you use the arm or not. It is intended to rock freely to eliminate friction over the saddle from the equation. In fact Leo states this on the patent documents. I personally use the Jag for stuff where sustain isn't relevant so I don't mind the percussive nature of it, I embrace it, but if you prefer sustain VS vibrato use, it should be fine to keep it locked. Oh and Loctite is a great tip I should've included. In my case I didn't have any at the time and used teflon plumbing tape, but I've done it on many guitars. It's surprising how so many high end instruments suffer from rattling, not only these ones. I guess these are notorious in that regard due to how microphonic and generally prone to picking up noises they are. I think it's more a case of the design emphasizing the issue more than the bridge alone to blame.
I like it! Kind of like a weird amalgamation of 1940's teacher, orchestra director and Mickey Mouse in Fantasia. Please tell me you wear a robe and extravagant hat.
Thanks! There's indeed hope for these bridges! All you need is a bit of patience, and maybe some Loctite if the screws start moving around too much, but that's not exclusive to these bridges.
I've found that a little "blue" Loctite on the height-adjustment screws in the saddles and on the bridge's legs helps with any rattle/ vibration issues, and provides better acoustic coupling in any case. A little teeny dab of mounting putty between each saddle helps, too. Just for extra measure, I put a little putty at the bottom of the bridge thimbles, as well. I used to just glue everything together with "Krystal Klear"- a plastic-modeler's clear-drying, water-soluble white glue, which also works. Currently, I'm using a Fender Mustang bridge (ordered from the Fender website) because it has fewer moving parts in the first place, and it matches my Jaguar's fingerboard radius perfectly. One issue with the Squier vibrato on that Jazzmaster is that it lacks the "Trem-O-Lock" thing that a real Fender Jazzmaster has. The "lock" prevents the vibrato from pulling back only, and when the vibrato spring tension screw is adjusted correctly, it provides tuning stability for intonation, string breaks, string changes, and alternate tunings.
I've heard about using Loctite, never felt the need but it does make a lot of sense. I've read some people have used some variants that made the thing stick there forever, but I don't know which ones cause that issue. I'll keep in mind the blue one works if I ever need it.
@@lonerjuan Yeah- the blue stuff is for tightening/stiffening, and screws remain adjustable. The red stuff immobilizes things, and you probably don't want that.
But, but, what about the 290 green stuff!?! I'm the heavy fisted grungy human excuse for a gorilla, out for vengeance, windmilling my way through social frustrations, and have been known to break the red stuff loose, even if it's recommended for bottom end bearings in a top fuel dragster!!! !
Update: Scott deleted the comments. Good thing I took screen captures. I will read them by the fire on Christmas Eve and my entire kin will rejoice in the glory of @Scott Heath. ------------- Is asked for a boob to check in, and such a boob answered the call. Fascinating stuff! After the exchange came to an end, I thought it'd be interesting to sum it up, and pin it here for everyone to appreciate. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did, and please @Scott Heath, keep in touch! The transcript: “The string angle without out a neck shim on those bridges is so low that everyone knows those strings slip right out especially bending with the High E string.” -I haven’t talked to “everyone”, but this is simply not true. If you’re having issues with the setup, I’d advice you to read a section of the patent documents (US2972923, page 5) titled “Method of tuning and operation”, where all the common setup issues are addressed. Apparently, hindsight was strong on Leo Fender. Either way, the string angle over the bridge is intended to be shallow. This is both to maximize the stability of the vibrato system and also due to this bridge being first introduced with the Jazzmaster, a design aimed at jazz guitarists, a group not really known to bend heavily and notorious users of archtop guitars, which prominently share this particular feature and were likely a source of inspiration for Leo Fender’s approach. At any rate, if there was actually an issue with the neck angle that had to be addressed, this would not be due to a bad bridge but due to a bad neck pocket job. For what is worth, the guitar shown on the video doesn’t have any problems in that area and ultimately, one could make the argument that no guitar fits every playing technique ideally. “Also the post holes don't fit the bridge posts for that stock bridge” -And they shouldn’t, since the bridge is designed to rock back and forth, as explained on the patent documents, page 5, second full paragraph: “The internal diameter of each thimble is substantially greater than that of the sleeve inserted therein, permitting rocking of each rock post assembly without interference”. “[…] so a lot of people pay someone 200$ to wrap tape on that piece of crap bridge and shim the neck and do a setup to make that dinky bridge work”. -All of that could be avoided, but it’s not Fender’s responsibility to stop people from being assholes. “Dude your tripping because the bridge post on the squier is not like the original fender ones lmao because those orig. fender ones actually fit the post holes. The squier ones Don't they move around […]” -All of that is false, as explained above (except for the part about the Squier bridge moving, or “rocking”, as Leo Fender called it). Both Fender and Squier, when fitted with regular versions of the bridge, comply with the original design in this aspect. “[…] they are cheap and made from less material so they move […]” -This entire line of reasoning is funny and wrong, especially when talking about an intended feature that is also present on a Fender, but maybe you’ve never played one. Did you really think they used less stuff to save money, so the bridge ended up being small? That’s hysterical and kind of adorable. “[…] and having a moving bridge is not ideal.” -It actually is on this design. A moving bridge eliminates friction over the saddles, and as explained on the patent: “The only points of friction are at the bottoms of screws and at the knife-edge elements.” Preventing the bridge from moving with $200 of tape increases friction in detriment of performance. “Everyone choses to replace them for something that doesn't move without having to put tape or whatever around the bridge post.” -If I could talk to “everyone”, I would tell “everyone” to stop wasting money read the patent, even though most “everyones” buy replacements that also move in a rocking fashion like the original. “You have absolutely no idea what your talking about” -Quite a bold statement, considering the video shows I managed to have my bridge be as stable as a Telecaster. “your comparing a Squier bridge to the design on an original fender bridge made in the 60s its not the same.” -Again, false. The design is the exact same. You can verify it quite easily if you really want to. You can also verify “your” and “you’re” are not the same. Petty, I know, but too many times… “The quality of parts is not the same for squier guitars as it is to original fenders made in the 50 and 60s there is no comparison or even the quality fenders made now adays I shouldn't have to say anymore […]” -Irrelevant, especially considering the video shows a Squier. But if anyone can show me a Fender from any era that is even more stable than this, I’ll be thoroughly impressed. [In response to ‘Did you look at the original patent drawings? Did you see how the posts are smaller than the inserts by design?’] “. dude. .... Yes I did.” - Doesn’t look like it judging by all of the above. It’s disappointing that this was the only question that got a direct response. Read more gooder! “if you read my comment I gave you a response to your question regarding the patent.” -Where? “I said it's not the same as the squier.” -But it is, and I cited specifically from the patent to support my claim. “I have a 60s jazzmaster the post hole fit the bridge post.” -Something there is not original, unless yours is some version I can’t seem to identify and that does not follow the traditional design, in which case the entire argument would be null and void. “Do you think squier made guitars have the same exacts parts on them as the originals fender patent guitars […]” -Trick question. Meaning exact same design and intended function, yes, I do. Meaning the exact same materials and tolerances, no I don’t, in fact this isn’t even the case on every Fender vs. Fender scenario. That said, this is indeed as much a to-spec Jaguar bridge as you can expect from other models on the Squier range, and it performs as expected. “your not very smart for referencing an original fender patent to a God damn squier !!” -I never made such a claim, but the patent documents for the Fender design do reflect the bridge on my god damn Squier quite accurately (or is it the other way around?), so why would referencing the original design make me “not very smart”? “Do you think it has the same electronics in it to ?” -Yes I too (haha). Now seriously, although irrelevant to the main argument, the circuits are identical to the most minute of details. Anyone with basic knowledge of electronics can corroborate this. Origin and manufacturing techniques play no audible role here as long as the parts are within spec. “Do you think squier guitars are all made from the same components from the fender patents in the 50s and 60s do your research buddy and learn reading comprehension because clearly you just don't get it!” -I did do my research. Besides the obvious hands-on experience with the part in question, I did a lot or reading, including every last word of the patent (which was made out of ink and paper) twice. The specific materials and construction techniques are not discussed in it, which is in fact a pretty standard practice. However, I fail to see where my reading comprehension fell short, and I’d really appreciate some help to understand where I went wrong. “I am not writing a research paper here.” -I’m not surprised. “I am replying from my smartphone.If you want to get technical Mr.run on sentences.” -Okay? I mean, yes, I was trying to get technical, but apparently smartphones prevent this. “Fender and squier guitars are not built with the same quality of parts. It's known to anyone who plays guitar with half a brain besides you,and to the company it self.” -I never argued this, neither did either half of my brain. Quality is not the point when talking about bridge post size or rocking motion though. “If you can't tell that your cheap indonesian pots in your guitar are not the same as the ones that come in REAL fenders. It is obvious that you can't tell what makes squier and fender different guitars.” -I can tell when two pots are within the same spec in both nominal value and tolerance, but I fail to see what that has to do with the bridge. So, are the pots alone what makes a Fender be a Fender? That would make acquiring a Fender way cheaper than I anticipated. Sir, you could make a fortune should this concept prove to be true! “This is a pointless conversation[…]” -Not really, contrasting opinions until truth arises is a fundamental pillar of science. That’s why peer-reviewing is so important. “I am done replying.” -That didn’t age well. “BTW I am a Mechanical Engineer […]” -Judging by how you approached this argument, I think your college ripped you off. “[…] so great job on being able to do math bro I am proud of you.” -Wow. “You set the tone of disrespect in the conversation.Read your previous comments, but you definitely didn't set the tone of your innotonation with that moving bridge that thing is probably way off.” -Bad at comedy and bad hearing. What a gem! @Scott Heath, please write back. Let us not ruin a beautiful friendship over such a silly matter. Truly yours, LJ.
@@slimturnpike Alright, you're getting a card then. I will need you full name, home address, social security number and you mother's maiden name. I tame mail very serious.
Lmao dude you are 110 % correct ! It took me about 2 days, to understand this so called issue with the Jaguars specifically. A good setup is all that my 70s classic vibe needed. Love your work bro !
Thanks! It did take me a while as well, but I'm really glad I didn't give up when it started sounding like a rhino gurgling on lugnuts on the first try.
Pretty funny video! But I was looking for an upgrade so I wouldn't need to set up my guitar every time I play. Any bridge would probably be better than the Chinese one I have now.
@@RexVergstrong But it will. Look at this test if you don't believe me: th-cam.com/users/shortsvjA7k8eNycc?feature=shared Actually, I was so confident I did the same test in Spanish, in case language has anything to do with it: th-cam.com/users/shortsrlb8zMtJjhs?feature=shared A proper setup does work.
Eloquently stated! Perfect. Maybe the guitar would sound better if people also practiced as much as they are tweaking & wanking on forums about petty details?
@@lonerjuan After I saw your video, I decided to try working the tremolo on my Haze 1950 HSJA Jazzmaster copy as you did with the Squire in the video to see if it would hold tune. I had already upgraded it's tremolo to a Fender AVRI as the original one was crap. It does comes with a different bridge, but it is a rocking one. So, after really working it as hard as you did, it does stay in tune...which I am happy about. While I installed and set up the AVRI myself using instructions I found online, I had the neck worked on by a professional luthier who understands Jazzmasters. Thanks again.
@@sgd5k292 That's great! Do you have a link to the setup instructions? I'm always trying to learn new tricks, and so far the best tutorial I've seen yet is the one Leo Fender wrote. It's so weird is so little known though, and I'm sure there's gotta be some other cool tricks I can pick up.
@@sgd5k292 The comment got deleted, but I managed to follow the link from my email. I had seen that tutorial before and it really nails how to take advantage of the locking system. It's also quick, to the point and well illustrated, which is great. On non-locking systems like mine, you go by feel, but it isn't hard to figure what feels right. There's a range where the stiffness will vary but functionality won't suffer, and if you go too far to either way you'll start hitting things so you'll know you've gone too far.
I agree with you , my jag bridge is fine and the link was good to read too. However, stupidity and curiosity have led me to getting a tuffset bridge to try out.
Good stuff! It's not like I'm against modding guitars though, I do it all the time, but offsets get such a bad rap and cost people so much money for no real reason. I'm happy yours will at least get a fair trial.
@@lonerjuan ..lets say your right that these offset bridges are all perfectly fine and that all it needs is to be set up right ..but the screws unscrew over time with use ...so are you saying that with a correct setup the screws will no longer move or are you just using locktite?
Dear Mr Loner You’ve done a lot with very little. Actions speak louder than words. Thank you for the link to inventor Clarence L Fender’s U.S.Patent on the Floating Tremolo and Bridge. It is some very enlightened reading from a very smart and well intentioned man who perfectly explains his purpose
Thank you very much! I have to admit, this probably being the most polite and well mannered comment I've ever received, I feel a bit weird about the not-so-polite way in which I presented the video. That said, it's kind of amazing how two very different approaches can coexist peacefully and respectfully when coming together through a silly video about a bridge on a guitar. The Internet is awesome that way! And there's also a lot of videos of corgis running around and people doing weird stuff, so yay Internets! Thanks for watching.
@@jimmystreeter Have you ever wondered if there was actually no dog at all, meaning it might have been a cognitive dissociative incident of sorts? Because I might have had a few of those myself.
Lol I was about to storm the comments like “those aftermarket bridges are nice but first try finding a luthier who actually knows how to set these up and then throw that buzz stop in the trash.” You had me going. 😂
Awesome video!!! Finally someone that demonstrates what set up can do and the proper and fun way to torture test.... Next request though for a shootout: stock bridge vs. a carefully bent large nail ...Which is better?!?!
I think there would be a LOT more offset players in the world if they could be found in the shops set up so well. Most of the time they have 9's and everything past the bridge pup flapping in the breeze
Offsets definitely get a lot of bad rap due to bad owners, we should definitely see more of them! Now the nail idea has me intrigued. How would you implement that. I'm up for a weird challenge.
@@lonerjuan that would be a challenge for sure. I imagine you have to start with a loop of some sort and a long spike. Maybe take a little rectangular plate: nail goes through and bent so the pointy bit hits the other side. Maybe into another hole drilled into metal plate. Then you gotta bend that loop to intonation 🤪. No idea if you can temper the nail harder after that to hold tension? Could use two shorter nails and tell ppl you’re all fancy and are treating the wound strings differently
Thanks! I gotta admit, as much confidence as I had on the bridge from the get go, I was legit surprised it went so great on the first take. It was supposed to be a 90 second thing tops, but the thing just wouldn't quit, and neither would I. I should probably ask my therapist about the proper term for people who spontaneously engage on a standoff with an inanimate object though.
hi, i'm really considering to get a jazzmaster soon, but after a lot of complaints about the original vintage bridge I got really afraid of dealing with this "issues", could you please detail the steps of seting up this guitar right after buying it? i really suck at english and didnt understand that much reading Leo's
@@joaoreis9650 If it is your first setup, it will be tricky regardless of the guitar, but with practice it'll get better. Either way, to get a feel for a good setup first, you might have a better shot if you find a reliable luthier, tell them what you like regarding action and stuff, and then eventually you'll be able to replicate it yourself using your own methods. It would be impossible to write an entire translation of a setup here, but stick to the TRAIN method (Tuning, Relief, Action, Intonation, Noodle around and repeat until satisfied) and you'll be fine. On the particulars of the Jaguar/Jazzmasters, just make sure the saddles are high enough for the strings to clear the back plate of the bridge, not any higher or they'll start to fall to the sides. They should be horizontal too, unless you find you need to compensate for a particular playing style (I used to go too hard on the low E and the saddle needed to be inclined to compensate for my poor technique). Then achieve final height by raising the bridge from the adjustable screws on the sides. Make sure the entire thing is perpendicular to the body and the support studs are centered on the holes in the body, so that the bridge rocks freely when you use the tremolo arm. The bridge needs to move freely to go back to its place every time so that intonation is stable. Don't use tape to make it stop (some people do), and don't lubricate the saddles; this makes the bridge slip around and it'll never return to the same position twice. I'd still recommend some google-translate time with Leo's instruction (some of the language is very old-timey though). If all else fails, you might need to shim the neck to increase the angle. Don't use picks or cardboard, you can fuck up the entire neck. Shims are about 5 dollars and you can try a few different angles to fit your needs if it's absolutely necessary. Best of luck and enjoy your Jazzmaster! They're great guitars. (Consider a treble-bleed on the volumes if it loses too much treble when turning down)
@@lonerjuan thank you so much for taking the time to replying my comment, one last question, shimming the neck is always strictly necessary to be able to raise the bridge? to ensure it have nice break angle. unfortunately I can get nice neck shims like stewmac here in brazil, so I was thinking about making one with a small piece of wood (that covers the entire pocket) and then making the angle with a sandpaper, do you think that would work? really wish i could find a full pocket shim here :(
First off, your English is great! Second, I have bought stuff from Stewmac before and had it shipped to Uruguay (small stuff), so you could do that. Might take ages via regular mail and I don't know the taxes situation over there, but you'll get them. Or yes, with proper tools, you could make shims yourself (I thought of it but don't trust my skills and would certainly ruin the neck). That said, yes, after a certain point shims become necessary to keep raising the bridge, but I've found the shallow angle is part of what I like about how my Jag behaves. I tried a steeper angle and it just felt wrong. It started getting a Les Paulish feel, and I like my Jag the opposite way of a Les Paul; what makes it fun for me is the quick attack, fast decay, percussive feel of it. For example, most Nirvana riffs on a Les Paul feel wrong to me (especially the cleanish ones, like Drain You or Aneurysm) , so does surf style music. I think half the problems people experience with guitars like these are due to not embracing the true nature of the beast, like trying to shred on an LS5. It can be done, but you'll need wrist surgery afterwards.
@@lonerjuan totally agree with you, I don’t get people pickin up jags/jm and throwing the trem bar on the box?? or gluing the bridge so it doesn’t rock anymore, I mean you could do that it’s your own guitar but, why getting an offset in the first place with you want to shred or something like that. For me this guitars are perfect simply because of its beautiful bright tones,the shape of body and most important the best vibrato system you can get. Also s big fan of bands such Sonic Youth and My Bloody Valentine
I don't know about that. There's a large crowd on the internets that seem to think he stopped synapsis completely somewhere around 1954, so there must be some truth to that.
Did anyone discover the setup instructions from this video? I read the patent (method of tuning and operation part) and it keeps talking about a button 43 my Squire doesn't have, and which seems critical for later step that involves adjusting the trem spring screw. At least it mentions that bridge should be tilted towards the neck normally. Thanks. Should I get AVRI trem for that button tho?
It doesn't really matter. 43 is the stop button that for whatever reason is absent on Squiers, but it changes nothing when it comes to normal operation. If you do have it, it's good to make sure the balance point of the system is such that engaging the button doesn't shift the tuning, which is why it's mentioned on the patent, but if you don't have it, just ignore that part.
I've got a Mustang with one of those and it works just fine. It's not as sturdy-looking/feeling as the non-adjustable, old-school ones, but it does allow for some extra adjustment which is good. I do however find that the saddles tend to move laterally a little bit on exaggerated bends though, particularly the high e saddle. I don't know if it would be the same way on a Jag, but I don't think I would change them if I had the chance. Some people do because the single, deeper groove keeps the string from popping out, but I haven't had that issue after getting the hang on the setup.
@@lonerjuan Thanks for the info. I’m building an offset soon and assessing my options. Have you heard of the Bensonite bridge? It’s like a mustang bridge with more radius options, a tight fit between saddles, locking height adjustment, and a coarse finish in the saddle grooves to increase friction.
@@utilitymuffin. I've seen it, but haven't tried it. It looks great though! And it seems really sturdy. It would look great on a custom build (which I'd love to see by the way, please tell me you're posting the progress somewhere). What I like the most about that bridge is the friction thing you mentioned. They seem to be the only aftermarket pieces (that I've seen so far) addressing the fact that the bridge NEEDS to have friction where the strings sit, meaning they won't slip over the bridge as it rocks. The only other place I've seen that mentioned is on the patent for the OG. It goes to show they understand the design and how to get the best out of it.
haha, thanks, I was hoping for a simple solution like that. Actually my stock and vintage style 6-Screw Strat Trem works perfectly and stays in tune as well, no need for upgrading. BUT how did you set up your jazzmaster??
Basically, I followed Leo’s tutorial on the section “Method of tuning and operation” on the patent of the bridge, which doesn’t deviate much from the traditional setup steps, good ol’ T.R.A.I.N.: Tune, Relief, Action, Intonation, Noodle… then rinse and repeat. Roughly from the document... - Set each string on a groove on the saddle so that string spacing is correct, while also making sure all strings pass over the pickup poles. -Tune to pitch. -Adjust overall bridge height. -Adjust saddles just high enough to clear the back of the bridge, but not so much that they turn to the side as you play or bend. -Adjust neck relief with the truss rod. -Fine tune string action/string radius relative to the neck radius. -Adjust saddles/string length for intonation. -If anything needs to be corrected a bit, run through the previous steps and do some minor adjustments until everything feels right. -Also, make sure the bridge plate is parallel to the body Surface so that the bridge can rock back and forth freely. If you notice at some point this is not the case, you’ll probably need to fine tune some stuff again. Anything you happen to need help with, just let me know.
@@lonerjuan Thanks for the detailed answer! Im in the middle of building a thinline Jazzmaster Partscaster with humbuckers, but with vintage/classic bridge and trem set-up, thats why I'm trying to gather as much info on setting up a jazzmaster as possible, thanks!
@@Elimnio I definitely want to see that guitar! That sounds like a magnificent creature! You probably thought of this already, but pay close attention to the neck-body angle, especially if the parts are not necessarily made for each other, being a partscaster and all. The shallow string angle over the bridge leaves little room for error. There's always shims though.
Thanks! I've been fighting the Jazzmaster GAS for a long time. I haven't found an excuse or a ridiculously cheap one to justify it yet... but it's getting harder and harder to fight it.
This is sound advice though you can't deny that offsets are not for beginners. I'm lucky that my Squier Jazzmaster doesn't exhibit most of the common issue. It has an angled neck pocket so the bridge was already high enough to have a good break angle. No strings touching the bridge, which has Mustang saddles. The bridge doesn't sink, it barely rocks with the tremolo, it always stays centered and parallel to the guitar. I had to hammer the arm so it would stay in the collet without clicking. There was no way around that since the vibrato screws are crap and one is stripped and I can't get the plate off the guitar to tighten the collet. Let's not pretend Squiers have quality parts. Of course I set up the guitar properly, filed the nut slots correctly for my string gauge. About that. With 9s it made a lot of noise behind the bridge, which would occasionally come through the amp. With 11s it's a lot better and I like that gauge anyway but these guitars don't work well with light gauge strings. Strats have held up better over the decades.
Yeah, without a proper setup they can make you hate them in a second. I guess Leo Fender knew that could be an issue when he wrote a tutorial on the patent itself, but he probably should've shipped a copy with every guitar. Mine does fine with 10's, and I kinda like it when they get a bit loaded with harmonics behind the bridge, but I couldn't stand it rattling when I first got it. That's probably the reason I invested a lot of time into learning how to make it work properly, but I'm pretty sure a lot of people just give up.
I left the link to Leo Fender's patent documents in the description. There's an entire section called "Method of tuning and operation". It's as detailed and straightforward as it gets.
@@christineblack4654 You certainly can! Keep in mind though, being this a short-ish 24" scale, that whatever gauge you normally use on longer scales will be at a lower tension for the same pitch, and the oscillation of the string will have a wider range of movement. This could potentially lead to some buzz if you go too crazy. That said, with proper relief on the neck (and provided no fretwork issues, like one fret standing prouder than the rest) you can get away with a lot. This one in particular can go quite lower than I actually feel comfortable with.
Thanks! There's a section called Method of Tuning and Operation. It's on the fifth page of the document I linked. It would be too long to transcribe here and attempting to summarize it would not make it justice. It's well worth the full read if you want to get your offset in the best condition possible.
@@johnmanion6463 You know, you did have me thinking for a few minutes, but the way people just blurt out things on any comment section nowadays has my sarcasm detector in shambles. Please accept my apologies for being an utter boob.
I have a brand new Fender Jazzmaster Pro that I bought a week ago. I've been wanting one for ages, when I got it home and checked it out I found the action a bit high for me. The allen Key supplied was useless, it is so thin and was unable to adjust the bridge height because it couldn't grip the tiny allen heads to turn them. Looking on TH-cam for Advice I bought and installed a neck shim which was no problem to raise the neck tilt. But pulling out the bridge assembly I could see it is a pretty flimsy design, and could only be adjusted from under the bridge as the allen key heads were chewed out by the ill fitting supplied allen key. After the high E string broke when I was putting it back in and the allen key couldn't adjust it I thought 'Fuck It' and put it aside till I get a decent aftermarket bridge. I have Callahan bridges in both my Strat and Telecaster and they are incredible, but surprisingly and sadly they don't do one for Jazzmasters. I'll probably buy a Staytrem as I want to keep the floating bridge option.
The allen key should be thin though, much thinner than the hole on top since the screw that goes inside is thin, less than 1/8". Did you try any other key sizes just in case? I was under the impression the new bridges were supposed to be a high quality piece, certainly better than the one in my Squier.
@@lonerjuan The new bridges are an improvement to the previous Juan, in that the saddles fit snugly and can't move sideways like they used too. I did try other allen keys but the one supplied is the correct size. I was able to adjust the high E side of the bridge after removing all the string tension, but the low E side was just a round hole after my first attempt. I can get by with slackening of the strings, pulling the bridge off and adjusting with a pair of pliers. But why make them so tiny, doesn't help with the tone either.
@@johnperry9082 That's incredible a Fender with the term "Pro" attached to it has suck issues! The bridge on my Squier still has no stripped screws or key-slots. About the inside post-screw thickness, I don't know how dramatically it impacts tone. Aftermarket ones like Mastery and Staytrem use similar screws (the Staytrem is thicker), all of them endng in a conical tip which means minimal contact area with the body, as was intended by design from Leo Fender's documents. I think that part is something to accept from the model unless you want to go with a fixed bridge.
@@lonerjuan You are right about the pointed screw will always transfer less tone than a fixed bridge. I've never had a Jazzmaster before so it was a surprise to see how different it is to a Strat. Anyway, now that I have got the setup to my liking I'm really loving this guitar. The tone is really nice, and the whole guitar looks and feels wonderful. I hope I didn't put anyone off buying one. I will stand by my original opinion about those bridge screws though. They Are Too Bloody Thin, Soft and Flimsy.
@@johnperry9082 Setup is key on these ones, much more so than most "common" guitars, and it's easy to pass them by if you get one that's all over the place. I'm glad you're enjoying yours. I'm getting really tempted to get a JM.
IMHO The problem never was tunning stability which is superb, the problem is that the rocking bridge is a tone sucker, makes the guitar sound awful, muffled and with no sustain. Many people loves it.
Sustain is definitely far from Les Paul territory, but to me that's one of the things why I pick it up. It's different, quick, percussive, hell they even added a mute back in the 60s! But yeah, I do agree that the design doesn't favor sustain, and when people expect it from any guitar, they grab a Jaguar and hate it.
Great advice, not just for guitars. There's a lot of things in life where everyone says it sucks and it's literally just because everyone's fucking using it wrong.
I had to fight my own immaturity to not make a dick joke, simply because I can't take nice words seriously, but now that I got that off my chest... thank you! Have a nice one!
Great video dude. I just bought a Squire Jag And the bridge keeps dropping down on the high end. It’s unplayable. I found your channel tryin to find out what the fuck happened to my bridge. I didn’t even know this was a thing. FUCK Any suggestions appreciated 👍
@@lonerjuan yes, the bridge is dropping down flat against the body on the high e side (strings are touching frets) I found some other videos on here with other people having this exact problem. They are removing the bridge and unscrewing the screws and putting blue lockTite on the threads, setting the height and then putting the bridge back in the thimbles.
@@Spaceman-jo5mz I was going to suggest the same, using Loctite. Does the height screw inside the stud work though? Because if it does and it only goes down overtime, then you don't have to worry about damaged threads, and Loctite should be more than enough. Just make sure not to go crazy with the Loctite, you might want to be able to adjust it again in the future.
@@lonerjuan No, I suspect the threads are damaged now. Every time I raise the bridge and play for about 5-10 mins it drops down again. Going to have to replace bridge. Was leaning towards Staytrem as it’s more affordable than Mastery or Halon.
Oh yeah, people get pissed a lot with some of my videos. It's good though, it means I'm doing something they didn't expect. Or maybe I'm just a dick coming up with excuses.
That's how I show affection, like lovingly smacking your dog in the snout every once in a while. Sometimes you get a playful lick, sometimes you get stitches.
@@Sapropelle Lubrication is something you should actually avoid on these bridges. The rocking motion is what takes care or eliminating friction points and preserving tuning. Mr. Fender himself mentions on the patent how it is the friction of the strings over the saddles what makes everything move back and forth together. Getting rid of this friction means the bridge could slip under the strings and not return to its original position. About the noise, I don't know what you mean. Is it because the screws on the original bridge can rattle sometimes? Don't the Graphtech saddles change the sound a bit?
@@lonerjuan metallic saddles makes unpleasant chimes (mastery, TOM, mustang). Fender's technology is fault due rattling of bridge posts and shallow grooves. Originally it was meant to be played in oldschool style without palm muting or pullofs with slight use of vibrato - just picking, so it's not working properly for today's needs. You can adjust original bridge but it will go out of tune pretty fast and sustain stays low - i don't have such problems with graphtech, and this solution is cheaper than buy overpriced mastery bridge. Also I can put any size of strings instead 12's
@@Sapropelle I have mine on 10s and play like an ape, i.e. crazy bends and hard as hell right hand action. I also abuse the vibrato and as you can see on the video, it won't ever cause tuning problems. I don't get any rattling on the posts either, never heard of it in fact. What I've heard about (and experienced myself) is rattling from the saddle screws, which is not unique to this bridge and more likely due to poor machining. My Squier is trickier than a high quality American piece in that aspect, but nothing major. The common fix here is adding a bit of Loctite to prevent loosening of the screws, although I never had to go that far. A bit of teflon tape would work as well. About the low sustain, that is inherent to the overall design and a characteristic I actually embrace, as well as all the harmonics that come with the thing, which are a key part of the sound to me and one of the reasons it stands out from my other guitars. But pleasant to me and to you might be a different thing, so I see where you come from. Still, none of the issues I see mentioned constantly are something that a proper setup won't fix, which is the point of the video. Still, it's cool that you found a cheaper solution than those overpriced bridges, and one that got you where you wanted to get. I'm still curious about how it changed the sound. Does it sound warmer than before or something? Because I've heard that could be the case on other guitars.
@@markhunter1993 The rocking motion of the bridge is fundamental to the stability of the system, as it is clearly and very extensively explained by Leo Fender himself on the patent document linked in the description. As for the stability itself, I think this video is proof enough that, even on a relatively affordable Squier, this is as stable as it gets. I mean, did it not look stable to you on the video?
@@markhunter1993 No it doesn't. The rolling bridge relies on presenting as low as possible an opposing force to the string as is passes over with the expected result being that the string goes back to its original place. The roller does however present a non-negligible resistance in both directions which does not always cancel out after one full use cycle. Then there's also the non-perfect elasticity of the string. Pay attention at what the strings look like at the point where they rest over the bridge when you remove them. They're irreversibly bent, which means more resistance to movement. That spot also moves and re-forms over time as the string stretches. None of the previous are detrimental factors to consider on the offset bridge, in fact they're taken advantage of. The string never has to slide over the saddle, that's the whole point. They are different designs that work differently and achieve different results. I own both, they both have their appeal, but my Jag is way more stable than my roller-equipped guitar or any other floating bridge system I own for that matter (I do not currently have a Floyd Rose, which is on a league of its own if the quality is there). Again, watch the video, show me a Jaguar with a roller bridge that is even fractionally as stable as this one.
I don't know about being soft, but I'm definitely way too stupid to tell if this is sarcasm or not. I will still get mad a people writing /s on Reddit, but that's just a secondary effect of the stupid thing I mentioned. Cheers!
My sarcasm detection sense is failing on this one, so just in case you're serious, here's me being light on it: th-cam.com/users/shortsvjA7k8eNycc?feature=share
I almost hear sirens in the background responding to a domestic violence call
Thanks! It took a while to edit the audio but it paid off. You should've heard the raw track.
@@lonerjuan I meant from you beating on the trem loool. I love your channel man 😂
@@jasonkesser Whew! That's a relief! I thought people could still hear the screams and I was getting nervous I'd screwed up the noise gate settings.
this is definitely one of the videos of all time
Haha thanks! It is one of them, indeed.
This is da best demo of staying in tune using a stock trem/vibrato I’ve ever seen!!! Your delivery was impeccable and to da point.
Thanks! And people say anger and violence solve nothing...
The Fender website needs to link to this.
Truth is often so simple.
Excellent job, sir.
Yours are kind words good sir, very kind indeed! I'm but a messenger though, spreading the Gospel of Mr. Clarence Leonidas Fender.
that jingle bells bit had me laughing out loud in the middle of the night. thanks for a great video! what it lacks in script it more than makes up for in passion
I really hope you woke up someone and had to explain yourself. "There's this guy, he gets into arguments on thegearpage.net so he takes it out on his guitar... no I'm not watching porn!" I've brought shame to my ancestors, but the fuckers had it coming.
Haha same
This video is pain.
So is taking it up the ass, yet a lot of people seem to really enjoy it.
Few weeks ago I bought a Squier CV70 Jag. Since then I just read what and how to change around the bridge and trem plus the neck shim topic. When I bought it I was aware that this (the 14th) will be the most problematic guitar in my collection.
I already loaded some shopping carts with my finger on the trigger to buy the recommended parts. You showed me the simple and straight way to solve all these problems. Just mentioning, that few of them didn't even appeared in my case, but paranoia planted by others was stronger than the belief in what I heard and have seen and experienced myself.
Thank you. You saved me some time and money.
Awesome! I've been there though. I used to spend a lot of time in forums. I learned a lot, tremendous knowledge to be found, but I also wasted quite some money chasing nonsense.
The one thing I wouldn't completely rule out is that some offsets do indeed have less than perfect neck fits (as many guitars do, but these can potentially be more sensitive to that). In those cases, a .25° or in some cases .5° shim, properly cut and fully filling the pocket, might not be an outlandish solution.
@@lonerjuan Thank you very much for this recommendation, too. I am still wondering how can I be shure that I need a shim and what angle should it be?
Now looks that I don't need and the only advantage having one is that I should raise the bridge putting more tension on the saddles and strings. By the way, I used conductive brass foil around the bridge legs to avoid free rocking. Deliberately not used plastic tape thuss providing robustness (better resonance, more sustain?). Maybe I should get rid of the brass tape and redo the original free moving state? And last, the blue Loctite 242 for fixing the intonation screws in the saddles and avoiding rattling string noise is on the way.
@@ret01101 I don't have a measurement to determine if a shim is needed, it's more of a feel thing. If it's simply impossible to get some string angle over the bridge with proper action then you need a shim, but it's a case by case thing. If you need it, you can probably tell right away.
Keep in mind though the design comes from the Jazzmaster which took the shallow angle philosophy from big jazzboxes which generally have shallow angles (maybe not as shallow as these ones though), jazz being a genre where sustain isn't that big a deal. At least that seems to be the thought behind the original design. I doubt Leo ever imagined what these offsets would end up being used for.
Regarding the posts being fixed, I guess it depends on whether you use the arm or not. It is intended to rock freely to eliminate friction over the saddle from the equation. In fact Leo states this on the patent documents. I personally use the Jag for stuff where sustain isn't relevant so I don't mind the percussive nature of it, I embrace it, but if you prefer sustain VS vibrato use, it should be fine to keep it locked.
Oh and Loctite is a great tip I should've included. In my case I didn't have any at the time and used teflon plumbing tape, but I've done it on many guitars. It's surprising how so many high end instruments suffer from rattling, not only these ones. I guess these are notorious in that regard due to how microphonic and generally prone to picking up noises they are. I think it's more a case of the design emphasizing the issue more than the bridge alone to blame.
I always carry a whammy bar around with me. Just so that when I get into conversations, I can use it to physically accentuate what I'm saying.
I like it! Kind of like a weird amalgamation of 1940's teacher, orchestra director and Mickey Mouse in Fantasia. Please tell me you wear a robe and extravagant hat.
Man that was brilliantly done..im cracking up...more importantly..i need that set up....that holds great..there is hope
Thanks! There's indeed hope for these bridges! All you need is a bit of patience, and maybe some Loctite if the screws start moving around too much, but that's not exclusive to these bridges.
i love your frustration at the beginning. mashing on the trem arm and slandering the absolute horseshit fender bridge. so relatable
That's how I show love. Never got taught anything better.
I've found that a little "blue" Loctite on the height-adjustment screws in the saddles and on the bridge's legs helps with any rattle/ vibration issues, and provides better acoustic coupling in any case. A little teeny dab of mounting putty between each saddle helps, too. Just for extra measure, I put a little putty at the bottom of the bridge thimbles, as well. I used to just glue everything together with "Krystal Klear"- a plastic-modeler's clear-drying, water-soluble white glue, which also works. Currently, I'm using a Fender Mustang bridge (ordered from the Fender website) because it has fewer moving parts in the first place, and it matches my Jaguar's fingerboard radius perfectly. One issue with the Squier vibrato on that Jazzmaster is that it lacks the "Trem-O-Lock" thing that a real Fender Jazzmaster has. The "lock" prevents the vibrato from pulling back only, and when the vibrato spring tension screw is adjusted correctly, it provides tuning stability for intonation, string breaks, string changes, and alternate tunings.
I've heard about using Loctite, never felt the need but it does make a lot of sense. I've read some people have used some variants that made the thing stick there forever, but I don't know which ones cause that issue. I'll keep in mind the blue one works if I ever need it.
@@lonerjuan Yeah- the blue stuff is for tightening/stiffening, and screws remain adjustable. The red stuff immobilizes things, and you probably don't want that.
But, but, what about the 290 green stuff!?! I'm the heavy fisted grungy human excuse for a gorilla, out for vengeance, windmilling my way through social frustrations, and have been known to break the red stuff loose, even if it's recommended for bottom end bearings in a top fuel dragster!!! !
@@gmtb8014 The blue stuff. The red stuff is overkill.
*literally everyone* “Just Put a $300 mastery on a $300 Squier jag, bro”
*LJ* “Do a proper setup on Leo’s genius design, you cunts”
Best advice ever
Can't say I'm a poet, but I do go out of my way to save 300 bucks!
Update: Scott deleted the comments. Good thing I took screen captures. I will read them by the fire on Christmas Eve and my entire kin will rejoice in the glory of @Scott Heath.
-------------
Is asked for a boob to check in, and such a boob answered the call. Fascinating stuff! After the exchange came to an end, I thought it'd be interesting to sum it up, and pin it here for everyone to appreciate. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did, and please @Scott Heath, keep in touch!
The transcript:
“The string angle without out a neck shim on those bridges is so low that everyone knows those strings slip right out especially bending with the High E string.”
-I haven’t talked to “everyone”, but this is simply not true. If you’re having issues with the setup, I’d advice you to read a section of the patent documents (US2972923, page 5) titled “Method of tuning and operation”, where all the common setup issues are addressed. Apparently, hindsight was strong on Leo Fender.
Either way, the string angle over the bridge is intended to be shallow. This is both to maximize the stability of the vibrato system and also due to this bridge being first introduced with the Jazzmaster, a design aimed at jazz guitarists, a group not really known to bend heavily and notorious users of archtop guitars, which prominently share this particular feature and were likely a source of inspiration for Leo Fender’s approach.
At any rate, if there was actually an issue with the neck angle that had to be addressed, this would not be due to a bad bridge but due to a bad neck pocket job.
For what is worth, the guitar shown on the video doesn’t have any problems in that area and ultimately, one could make the argument that no guitar fits every playing technique ideally.
“Also the post holes don't fit the bridge posts for that stock bridge”
-And they shouldn’t, since the bridge is designed to rock back and forth, as explained on the patent documents, page 5, second full paragraph: “The internal diameter of each thimble is substantially greater than that of the sleeve inserted therein, permitting rocking of each rock post assembly without interference”.
“[…] so a lot of people pay someone 200$ to wrap tape on that piece of crap bridge and shim the neck and do a setup to make that dinky bridge work”.
-All of that could be avoided, but it’s not Fender’s responsibility to stop people from being assholes.
“Dude your tripping because the bridge post on the squier is not like the original fender ones lmao because those orig. fender ones actually fit the post holes. The squier ones Don't they move around […]”
-All of that is false, as explained above (except for the part about the Squier bridge moving, or “rocking”, as Leo Fender called it). Both Fender and Squier, when fitted with regular versions of the bridge, comply with the original design in this aspect.
“[…] they are cheap and made from less material so they move […]”
-This entire line of reasoning is funny and wrong, especially when talking about an intended feature that is also present on a Fender, but maybe you’ve never played one. Did you really think they used less stuff to save money, so the bridge ended up being small? That’s hysterical and kind of adorable.
“[…] and having a moving bridge is not ideal.”
-It actually is on this design. A moving bridge eliminates friction over the saddles, and as explained on the patent: “The only points of friction are at the bottoms of screws and at the knife-edge elements.” Preventing the bridge from moving with $200 of tape increases friction in detriment of performance.
“Everyone choses to replace them for something that doesn't move without having to put tape or whatever around the bridge post.”
-If I could talk to “everyone”, I would tell “everyone” to stop wasting money read the patent, even though most “everyones” buy replacements that also move in a rocking fashion like the original.
“You have absolutely no idea what your talking about”
-Quite a bold statement, considering the video shows I managed to have my bridge be as stable as a Telecaster.
“your comparing a Squier bridge to the design on an original fender bridge made in the 60s its not the same.”
-Again, false. The design is the exact same. You can verify it quite easily if you really want to. You can also verify “your” and “you’re” are not the same. Petty, I know, but too many times…
“The quality of parts is not the same for squier guitars as it is to original fenders made in the 50 and 60s there is no comparison or even the quality fenders made now adays I shouldn't have to say anymore […]”
-Irrelevant, especially considering the video shows a Squier. But if anyone can show me a Fender from any era that is even more stable than this, I’ll be thoroughly impressed.
[In response to ‘Did you look at the original patent drawings? Did you see how the posts are smaller than the inserts by design?’] “. dude. .... Yes I did.”
- Doesn’t look like it judging by all of the above. It’s disappointing that this was the only question that got a direct response. Read more gooder!
“if you read my comment I gave you a response to your question regarding the patent.”
-Where?
“I said it's not the same as the squier.”
-But it is, and I cited specifically from the patent to support my claim.
“I have a 60s jazzmaster the post hole fit the bridge post.”
-Something there is not original, unless yours is some version I can’t seem to identify and that does not follow the traditional design, in which case the entire argument would be null and void.
“Do you think squier made guitars have the same exacts parts on them as the originals fender patent guitars […]”
-Trick question. Meaning exact same design and intended function, yes, I do. Meaning the exact same materials and tolerances, no I don’t, in fact this isn’t even the case on every Fender vs. Fender scenario. That said, this is indeed as much a to-spec Jaguar bridge as you can expect from other models on the Squier range, and it performs as expected.
“your not very smart for referencing an original fender patent to a God damn squier !!”
-I never made such a claim, but the patent documents for the Fender design do reflect the bridge on my god damn Squier quite accurately (or is it the other way around?), so why would referencing the original design make me “not very smart”?
“Do you think it has the same electronics in it to ?”
-Yes I too (haha). Now seriously, although irrelevant to the main argument, the circuits are identical to the most minute of details. Anyone with basic knowledge of electronics can corroborate this. Origin and manufacturing techniques play no audible role here as long as the parts are within spec.
“Do you think squier guitars are all made from the same components from the fender patents in the 50s and 60s do your research buddy and learn reading comprehension because clearly you just don't get it!”
-I did do my research. Besides the obvious hands-on experience with the part in question, I did a lot or reading, including every last word of the patent (which was made out of ink and paper) twice. The specific materials and construction techniques are not discussed in it, which is in fact a pretty standard practice. However, I fail to see where my reading comprehension fell short, and I’d really appreciate some help to understand where I went wrong.
“I am not writing a research paper here.”
-I’m not surprised.
“I am replying from my smartphone.If you want to get technical Mr.run on sentences.”
-Okay? I mean, yes, I was trying to get technical, but apparently smartphones prevent this.
“Fender and squier guitars are not built with the same quality of parts. It's known to anyone who plays guitar with half a brain besides you,and to the company it self.”
-I never argued this, neither did either half of my brain. Quality is not the point when talking about bridge post size or rocking motion though.
“If you can't tell that your cheap indonesian pots in your guitar are not the same as the ones that come in REAL fenders. It is obvious that you can't tell what makes squier and fender different guitars.”
-I can tell when two pots are within the same spec in both nominal value and tolerance, but I fail to see what that has to do with the bridge. So, are the pots alone what makes a Fender be a Fender? That would make acquiring a Fender way cheaper than I anticipated. Sir, you could make a fortune should this concept prove to be true!
“This is a pointless conversation[…]”
-Not really, contrasting opinions until truth arises is a fundamental pillar of science. That’s why peer-reviewing is so important.
“I am done replying.”
-That didn’t age well.
“BTW I am a Mechanical Engineer […]”
-Judging by how you approached this argument, I think your college ripped you off.
“[…] so great job on being able to do math bro I am proud of you.”
-Wow.
“You set the tone of disrespect in the conversation.Read your previous comments, but you definitely didn't set the tone of your innotonation with that moving bridge that thing is probably way off.”
-Bad at comedy and bad hearing. What a gem!
@Scott Heath, please write back. Let us not ruin a beautiful friendship over such a silly matter.
Truly yours, LJ.
Awesome back and forth. Gonna subscribe just on this basis.
@@slimturnpike Please tell me you didn't read the whole thing! Otherwise, I might have to send you a card or something.
@@lonerjuan Haha I did
@@slimturnpike Alright, you're getting a card then. I will need you full name, home address, social security number and you mother's maiden name. I tame mail very serious.
Lmao dude you are 110 % correct ! It took me about 2 days, to understand this so called issue with the Jaguars specifically. A good setup is all that my 70s classic vibe needed. Love your work bro !
Thanks! It did take me a while as well, but I'm really glad I didn't give up when it started sounding like a rhino gurgling on lugnuts on the first try.
Pretty funny video! But I was looking for an upgrade so I wouldn't need to set up my guitar every time I play. Any bridge would probably be better than the Chinese one I have now.
I don't know about the particular bridge you have now, but if you learn to set it up right then any upgrade you get will be absolutely flawless.
@@lonerjuan It won't. No matter how you set it, it's still crap. The low E always slips.
@@RexVergstrong But it will. Look at this test if you don't believe me: th-cam.com/users/shortsvjA7k8eNycc?feature=shared
Actually, I was so confident I did the same test in Spanish, in case language has anything to do with it: th-cam.com/users/shortsrlb8zMtJjhs?feature=shared
A proper setup does work.
Eloquently stated! Perfect. Maybe the guitar would sound better if people also practiced as much as they are tweaking & wanking on forums about petty details?
But what about the toanz? Is nodoby going to think about the TOANZ!!??
Wow, glad I came here! Learned all I needed know for proper set up of a JM. Thanks! Subscribed!
Awesome! Happy to help!
@@lonerjuan After I saw your video, I decided to try working the tremolo on my Haze 1950 HSJA Jazzmaster copy as you did with the Squire in the video to see if it would hold tune. I had already upgraded it's tremolo to a Fender AVRI as the original one was crap. It does comes with a different bridge, but it is a rocking one. So, after really working it as hard as you did, it does stay in tune...which I am happy about. While I installed and set up the AVRI myself using instructions I found online, I had the neck worked on by a professional luthier who understands Jazzmasters. Thanks again.
@@sgd5k292 That's great! Do you have a link to the setup instructions? I'm always trying to learn new tricks, and so far the best tutorial I've seen yet is the one Leo Fender wrote. It's so weird is so little known though, and I'm sure there's gotta be some other cool tricks I can pick up.
@@sgd5k292 The comment got deleted, but I managed to follow the link from my email. I had seen that tutorial before and it really nails how to take advantage of the locking system. It's also quick, to the point and well illustrated, which is great.
On non-locking systems like mine, you go by feel, but it isn't hard to figure what feels right. There's a range where the stiffness will vary but functionality won't suffer, and if you go too far to either way you'll start hitting things so you'll know you've gone too far.
@@lonerjuan OK, sorry if I broke any rules. I figured you probably already knew about this anyway as you are extremely knowledgeable. Thanks!
Lol this guy is fucking awesome!!! Subscribed.👍
You're more awesomerer! (Thanks!)
Get your blood pressure checked!
Just did. It reads is "OL". Any idea what that means?
So, what you're saying is we should buy a Mastery or Staytrem?
haha- nice video, man.
Thanks! Nothing against those though, they look like very nicely machined pieces.
I agree with you , my jag bridge is fine and the link was good to read too. However, stupidity and curiosity have led me to getting a tuffset bridge to try out.
That looks like a masterpiece! Just by looks alone I love it. And I don't think it's stupid by any means. Tinkering with guitars should be mandatory.
best video ever, convinced me to not waste money on an aftermarket bridge
Good stuff! It's not like I'm against modding guitars though, I do it all the time, but offsets get such a bad rap and cost people so much money for no real reason.
I'm happy yours will at least get a fair trial.
And that is the truth, right there!!!
relax man, do not nervous 😂
anger management...this guy should not be put in charge of a jag.
Why? I obviously managed to set this one up right so...
@@lonerjuan ..lets say your right that these offset bridges are all perfectly fine and that all it needs is to be set up right ..but the screws unscrew over time with use ...so are you saying that with a correct setup the screws will no longer move or are you just using locktite?
Dear Mr Loner
You’ve done a lot with very little. Actions speak louder than words. Thank you for the link to inventor Clarence L Fender’s U.S.Patent on the Floating Tremolo and Bridge. It is some very enlightened reading from a very smart and well intentioned man who perfectly explains his purpose
Thank you very much! I have to admit, this probably being the most polite and well mannered comment I've ever received, I feel a bit weird about the not-so-polite way in which I presented the video.
That said, it's kind of amazing how two very different approaches can coexist peacefully and respectfully when coming together through a silly video about a bridge on a guitar.
The Internet is awesome that way! And there's also a lot of videos of corgis running around and people doing weird stuff, so yay Internets! Thanks for watching.
I once had a homework assignment on the topic of displaced aggression defense mechanisms, my dog ate it.
@@jimmystreeter Have you ever wondered if there was actually no dog at all, meaning it might have been a cognitive dissociative incident of sorts? Because I might have had a few of those myself.
None monies! I love it. Thanks.
Glad to rescued your cashes!
Jags need shims to get a good break angle
Some people find it beneficial, but it's not a must it the setup is done correctly.
You've demonstrated that the stock bridge can successfully accommodate 6 strums.
Dude, let's be honest, that was at least 8 hard ones.
@@lonerjuan You got about five left before those posts screws need to be raised back up again...
@@dclipper8052 Dude, this video is over 2 years old and I'm yet to set this thing up again. Shut the fuck up.
this is my favourite video
Awesome! This is mine: th-cam.com/video/1MRE2K3x-AY/w-d-xo.html
Lol I was about to storm the comments like “those aftermarket bridges are nice but first try finding a luthier who actually knows how to set these up and then throw that buzz stop in the trash.”
You had me going. 😂
Nice! I've been that guy, boy have I been that guy! That's what prompted the video. Too much time spent arguing in forums and yelling at youtubers.
I think you need anger management before the setup
I don't need no fucking nothing FUUUUCK!!!
How to say you´ve got ADHD without saying you got ADHD
Do you even know what ADHD means?
Awesome video!!! Finally someone that demonstrates what set up can do and the proper and fun way to torture test.... Next request though for a shootout: stock bridge vs. a carefully bent large nail ...Which is better?!?!
I think there would be a LOT more offset players in the world if they could be found in the shops set up so well. Most of the time they have 9's and everything past the bridge pup flapping in the breeze
Offsets definitely get a lot of bad rap due to bad owners, we should definitely see more of them! Now the nail idea has me intrigued. How would you implement that. I'm up for a weird challenge.
@@lonerjuan that would be a challenge for sure. I imagine you have to start with a loop of some sort and a long spike. Maybe take a little rectangular plate: nail goes through and bent so the pointy bit hits the other side. Maybe into another hole drilled into metal plate. Then you gotta bend that loop to intonation 🤪. No idea if you can temper the nail harder after that to hold tension? Could use two shorter nails and tell ppl you’re all fancy and are treating the wound strings differently
@@mrkrud The ramblings of a madman... I love it!
dude chill...
This guy might be insane but he spittin facts
Insane might be an understatement, but also a compliment, so thanks!
I love the build up at the start
Thanks!
This video is so great! Comedy gold and you really show off the abuse that bridge can take!
Thanks! I gotta admit, as much confidence as I had on the bridge from the get go, I was legit surprised it went so great on the first take. It was supposed to be a 90 second thing tops, but the thing just wouldn't quit, and neither would I.
I should probably ask my therapist about the proper term for people who spontaneously engage on a standoff with an inanimate object though.
I love this video lol 😂 you’re correct sir✨🤌👏🔥
Thanks!
hi, i'm really considering to get a jazzmaster soon, but after a lot of complaints about the original vintage bridge I got really afraid of dealing with this "issues", could you please detail the steps of seting up this guitar right after buying it? i really suck at english and didnt understand that much reading Leo's
also I'm not really familiar with setting electric guitars since I only have an acoustic
@@joaoreis9650 If it is your first setup, it will be tricky regardless of the guitar, but with practice it'll get better. Either way, to get a feel for a good setup first, you might have a better shot if you find a reliable luthier, tell them what you like regarding action and stuff, and then eventually you'll be able to replicate it yourself using your own methods.
It would be impossible to write an entire translation of a setup here, but stick to the TRAIN method (Tuning, Relief, Action, Intonation, Noodle around and repeat until satisfied) and you'll be fine.
On the particulars of the Jaguar/Jazzmasters, just make sure the saddles are high enough for the strings to clear the back plate of the bridge, not any higher or they'll start to fall to the sides. They should be horizontal too, unless you find you need to compensate for a particular playing style (I used to go too hard on the low E and the saddle needed to be inclined to compensate for my poor technique).
Then achieve final height by raising the bridge from the adjustable screws on the sides.
Make sure the entire thing is perpendicular to the body and the support studs are centered on the holes in the body, so that the bridge rocks freely when you use the tremolo arm. The bridge needs to move freely to go back to its place every time so that intonation is stable. Don't use tape to make it stop (some people do), and don't lubricate the saddles; this makes the bridge slip around and it'll never return to the same position twice.
I'd still recommend some google-translate time with Leo's instruction (some of the language is very old-timey though).
If all else fails, you might need to shim the neck to increase the angle. Don't use picks or cardboard, you can fuck up the entire neck. Shims are about 5 dollars and you can try a few different angles to fit your needs if it's absolutely necessary.
Best of luck and enjoy your Jazzmaster! They're great guitars. (Consider a treble-bleed on the volumes if it loses too much treble when turning down)
@@lonerjuan thank you so much for taking the time to replying my comment, one last question, shimming the neck is always strictly necessary to be able to raise the bridge? to ensure it have nice break angle. unfortunately I can get nice neck shims like stewmac here in brazil, so I was thinking about making one with a small piece of wood (that covers the entire pocket) and then making the angle with a sandpaper, do you think that would work? really wish i could find a full pocket shim here :(
First off, your English is great!
Second, I have bought stuff from Stewmac before and had it shipped to Uruguay (small stuff), so you could do that. Might take ages via regular mail and I don't know the taxes situation over there, but you'll get them. Or yes, with proper tools, you could make shims yourself (I thought of it but don't trust my skills and would certainly ruin the neck).
That said, yes, after a certain point shims become necessary to keep raising the bridge, but I've found the shallow angle is part of what I like about how my Jag behaves. I tried a steeper angle and it just felt wrong. It started getting a Les Paulish feel, and I like my Jag the opposite way of a Les Paul; what makes it fun for me is the quick attack, fast decay, percussive feel of it. For example, most Nirvana riffs on a Les Paul feel wrong to me (especially the cleanish ones, like Drain You or Aneurysm) , so does surf style music.
I think half the problems people experience with guitars like these are due to not embracing the true nature of the beast, like trying to shred on an LS5. It can be done, but you'll need wrist surgery afterwards.
@@lonerjuan totally agree with you, I don’t get people pickin up jags/jm and throwing the trem bar on the box?? or gluing the bridge so it doesn’t rock anymore, I mean you could do that it’s your own guitar but, why getting an offset in the first place with you want to shred or something like that. For me this guitars are perfect simply because of its beautiful bright tones,the shape of body and most important the best vibrato system you can get. Also s big fan of bands such Sonic Youth and My Bloody Valentine
Leo didn’t suddenly become an idiot when he designed the offsets set them up and use the right gauge strings there fine!
I don't know about that. There's a large crowd on the internets that seem to think he stopped synapsis completely somewhere around 1954, so there must be some truth to that.
Did anyone discover the setup instructions from this video? I read the patent (method of tuning and operation part) and it keeps talking about a button 43 my Squire doesn't have, and which seems critical for later step that involves adjusting the trem spring screw. At least it mentions that bridge should be tilted towards the neck normally. Thanks. Should I get AVRI trem for that button tho?
It doesn't really matter. 43 is the stop button that for whatever reason is absent on Squiers, but it changes nothing when it comes to normal operation.
If you do have it, it's good to make sure the balance point of the system is such that engaging the button doesn't shift the tuning, which is why it's mentioned on the patent, but if you don't have it, just ignore that part.
@@lonerjuan oh nice, thank you!
@@Nufrifin No problem!
What are your thoughts on mustang bridges with height-adjustable saddles? It would get rid of string spacing adjustment but that could be a good thing
I've got a Mustang with one of those and it works just fine. It's not as sturdy-looking/feeling as the non-adjustable, old-school ones, but it does allow for some extra adjustment which is good.
I do however find that the saddles tend to move laterally a little bit on exaggerated bends though, particularly the high e saddle. I don't know if it would be the same way on a Jag, but I don't think I would change them if I had the chance. Some people do because the single, deeper groove keeps the string from popping out, but I haven't had that issue after getting the hang on the setup.
@@lonerjuan Thanks for the info. I’m building an offset soon and assessing my options. Have you heard of the Bensonite bridge? It’s like a mustang bridge with more radius options, a tight fit between saddles, locking height adjustment, and a coarse finish in the saddle grooves to increase friction.
@@utilitymuffin. I've seen it, but haven't tried it. It looks great though! And it seems really sturdy. It would look great on a custom build (which I'd love to see by the way, please tell me you're posting the progress somewhere).
What I like the most about that bridge is the friction thing you mentioned. They seem to be the only aftermarket pieces (that I've seen so far) addressing the fact that the bridge NEEDS to have friction where the strings sit, meaning they won't slip over the bridge as it rocks. The only other place I've seen that mentioned is on the patent for the OG. It goes to show they understand the design and how to get the best out of it.
haha, thanks, I was hoping for a simple solution like that. Actually my stock and vintage style 6-Screw Strat Trem works perfectly and stays in tune as well, no need for upgrading. BUT how did you set up your jazzmaster??
Basically, I followed Leo’s tutorial on the section “Method of tuning and operation” on the patent of the bridge, which doesn’t deviate much from the traditional setup steps, good ol’ T.R.A.I.N.: Tune, Relief, Action, Intonation, Noodle… then rinse and repeat.
Roughly from the document...
- Set each string on a groove on the saddle so that string spacing is correct, while also making sure all strings pass over the pickup poles.
-Tune to pitch.
-Adjust overall bridge height.
-Adjust saddles just high enough to clear the back of the bridge, but not so much that they turn to the side as you play or bend.
-Adjust neck relief with the truss rod.
-Fine tune string action/string radius relative to the neck radius.
-Adjust saddles/string length for intonation.
-If anything needs to be corrected a bit, run through the previous steps and do some minor adjustments until everything feels right.
-Also, make sure the bridge plate is parallel to the body Surface so that the bridge can rock back and forth freely. If you notice at some point this is not the case, you’ll probably need to fine tune some stuff again.
Anything you happen to need help with, just let me know.
@@lonerjuan Thanks for the detailed answer! Im in the middle of building a thinline Jazzmaster Partscaster with humbuckers, but with vintage/classic bridge and trem set-up, thats why I'm trying to gather as much info on setting up a jazzmaster as possible, thanks!
@@Elimnio I definitely want to see that guitar! That sounds like a magnificent creature!
You probably thought of this already, but pay close attention to the neck-body angle, especially if the parts are not necessarily made for each other, being a partscaster and all. The shallow string angle over the bridge leaves little room for error. There's always shims though.
Man I want the GAS of a Jazzmaster.... Ending surprise was awesome dude 😂
Thanks! I've been fighting the Jazzmaster GAS for a long time. I haven't found an excuse or a ridiculously cheap one to justify it yet... but it's getting harder and harder to fight it.
This is sound advice though you can't deny that offsets are not for beginners.
I'm lucky that my Squier Jazzmaster doesn't exhibit most of the common issue. It has an angled neck pocket so the bridge was already high enough to have a good break angle. No strings touching the bridge, which has Mustang saddles. The bridge doesn't sink, it barely rocks with the tremolo, it always stays centered and parallel to the guitar. I had to hammer the arm so it would stay in the collet without clicking. There was no way around that since the vibrato screws are crap and one is stripped and I can't get the plate off the guitar to tighten the collet. Let's not pretend Squiers have quality parts.
Of course I set up the guitar properly, filed the nut slots correctly for my string gauge. About that. With 9s it made a lot of noise behind the bridge, which would occasionally come through the amp. With 11s it's a lot better and I like that gauge anyway but these guitars don't work well with light gauge strings.
Strats have held up better over the decades.
Yeah, without a proper setup they can make you hate them in a second. I guess Leo Fender knew that could be an issue when he wrote a tutorial on the patent itself, but he probably should've shipped a copy with every guitar.
Mine does fine with 10's, and I kinda like it when they get a bit loaded with harmonics behind the bridge, but I couldn't stand it rattling when I first got it. That's probably the reason I invested a lot of time into learning how to make it work properly, but I'm pretty sure a lot of people just give up.
Yeah, but thats how you jerk around on it when actually playing. Great advise.
Should I call somebody for you?
Maybe... what are the odds of getting Bull Murray in the phone?
i can assume that your bp when you made that video is around 200/140
I did not own a sphygmomanometer at the time but I do now, so I will definitely include some random readings on my videos from now on.
Does anyone have the link on how to properly set up?
I left the link to Leo Fender's patent documents in the description. There's an entire section called "Method of tuning and operation". It's as detailed and straightforward as it gets.
Amazing video.
Thanks!
subscription well earned.
Thanks!
chill with the guitar bro LOL
do you have to take of the neck on this thing to adjust the trust rod? that's so dumb.
No you don't, it's on the headstock as usual. Only some specific vintage-correct models do that.
@@lonerjuan ok cool tanks. can you get really low action with it. I like really low action. thanks.
@@christineblack4654 You certainly can! Keep in mind though, being this a short-ish 24" scale, that whatever gauge you normally use on longer scales will be at a lower tension for the same pitch, and the oscillation of the string will have a wider range of movement. This could potentially lead to some buzz if you go too crazy.
That said, with proper relief on the neck (and provided no fretwork issues, like one fret standing prouder than the rest) you can get away with a lot. This one in particular can go quite lower than I actually feel comfortable with.
@@lonerjuan I have 12 guitars. none with the same gage or tuning. I always put on what shoud go on. I'm smart about that. thanks.
of all the guitar related videos I've ever watched, this is hands down the best. 😂
Awesome! Thanks a lot. There's other guitar related crap here if you feel like lowering the bar.
i'm illiterate, can you explain the pertinent info in the patent for us? ;)
this was funny and v helpful, and concise. a+
Thanks! There's a section called Method of Tuning and Operation. It's on the fifth page of the document I linked. It would be too long to transcribe here and attempting to summarize it would not make it justice. It's well worth the full read if you want to get your offset in the best condition possible.
zero moneys guys
Anger management needed
But luckily not a new bridge.
Needs a Mastery
Why?
It’s a joke, sir.😂
@@johnmanion6463 You know, you did have me thinking for a few minutes, but the way people just blurt out things on any comment section nowadays has my sarcasm detector in shambles.
Please accept my apologies for being an utter boob.
Angry Jag
It's a happy Jag now that it's properly set up.
"Common Sense" isn't so common, is it?
That should be on a t-shirt.
I have a brand new Fender Jazzmaster Pro that I bought a week ago. I've been wanting one for ages, when I got it home and checked it out I found the action a bit high for me. The allen Key supplied was useless, it is so thin and was unable to adjust the bridge height because it couldn't grip the tiny allen heads to turn them. Looking on TH-cam for Advice I bought and installed a neck shim which was no problem to raise the neck tilt. But pulling out the bridge assembly I could see it is a pretty flimsy design, and could only be adjusted from under the bridge as the allen key heads were chewed out by the ill fitting supplied allen key. After the high E string broke when I was putting it back in and the allen key couldn't adjust it I thought 'Fuck It' and put it aside till I get a decent aftermarket bridge. I have Callahan bridges in both my Strat and Telecaster and they are incredible, but surprisingly and sadly they don't do one for Jazzmasters. I'll probably buy a Staytrem as I want to keep the floating bridge option.
The allen key should be thin though, much thinner than the hole on top since the screw that goes inside is thin, less than 1/8".
Did you try any other key sizes just in case? I was under the impression the new bridges were supposed to be a high quality piece, certainly better than the one in my Squier.
@@lonerjuan The new bridges are an improvement to the previous Juan, in that the saddles fit snugly and can't move sideways like they used too. I did try other allen keys but the one supplied is the correct size. I was able to adjust the high E side of the bridge after removing all the string tension, but the low E side was just a round hole after my first attempt. I can get by with slackening of the strings, pulling the bridge off and adjusting with a pair of pliers. But why make them so tiny, doesn't help with the tone either.
@@johnperry9082 That's incredible a Fender with the term "Pro" attached to it has suck issues! The bridge on my Squier still has no stripped screws or key-slots.
About the inside post-screw thickness, I don't know how dramatically it impacts tone. Aftermarket ones like Mastery and Staytrem use similar screws (the Staytrem is thicker), all of them endng in a conical tip which means minimal contact area with the body, as was intended by design from Leo Fender's documents. I think that part is something to accept from the model unless you want to go with a fixed bridge.
@@lonerjuan You are right about the pointed screw will always transfer less tone than a fixed bridge. I've never had a Jazzmaster before so it was a surprise to see how different it is to a Strat. Anyway, now that I have got the setup to my liking I'm really loving this guitar. The tone is really nice, and the whole guitar looks and feels wonderful. I hope I didn't put anyone off buying one. I will stand by my original opinion about those bridge screws though. They Are Too Bloody Thin, Soft and Flimsy.
@@johnperry9082 Setup is key on these ones, much more so than most "common" guitars, and it's easy to pass them by if you get one that's all over the place. I'm glad you're enjoying yours. I'm getting really tempted to get a JM.
Play a chord above the twelfth fret and I’ll buy the intonation.
What is that supposed to mean? Each saddle can be adjusted individually. If anything, I can intonate this thing better than my Tele or PRS Singlecut.
Yup😂😂 I couldn’t fucking agree more
What if I said every Jaguar should come with a pound of free bacon?
yay, the internets
IMHO The problem never was tunning stability which is superb, the problem is that the rocking bridge is a tone sucker, makes the guitar sound awful, muffled and with no sustain. Many people loves it.
Sustain is definitely far from Les Paul territory, but to me that's one of the things why I pick it up. It's different, quick, percussive, hell they even added a mute back in the 60s!
But yeah, I do agree that the design doesn't favor sustain, and when people expect it from any guitar, they grab a Jaguar and hate it.
What language are you speaking?
Farsi.
Reading instructions is cheating.
And according to Reddit, it usually leads to dick getting stuck in object.
@@lonerjuan Is it so wrong for a man to love his guitar th-cam.com/video/pdjJUwZ2AgY/w-d-xo.html
Love is never wrong. Love is strange and evil, but never wrong.
Great advice, not just for guitars. There's a lot of things in life where everyone says it sucks and it's literally just because everyone's fucking using it wrong.
I had to fight my own immaturity to not make a dick joke, simply because I can't take nice words seriously, but now that I got that off my chest... thank you! Have a nice one!
this was kinda pornographic
Is my hand THAT sexy?
Great video dude.
I just bought a Squire Jag
And the bridge keeps dropping down on the high end.
It’s unplayable.
I found your channel tryin to find out what the fuck happened to my bridge.
I didn’t even know this was a thing.
FUCK
Any suggestions appreciated 👍
What do you mean by dropping down? Are you losing height on the treble side? Is it the stud itself going lower or is it individual saddles?
@@lonerjuan yes, the bridge is dropping down flat against the body on the high e side (strings are touching frets)
I found some other videos on here with other people having this exact problem. They are removing the bridge and unscrewing the screws and putting blue lockTite on the threads, setting the height and then putting the bridge back in the thimbles.
@@Spaceman-jo5mz I was going to suggest the same, using Loctite. Does the height screw inside the stud work though? Because if it does and it only goes down overtime, then you don't have to worry about damaged threads, and Loctite should be more than enough. Just make sure not to go crazy with the Loctite, you might want to be able to adjust it again in the future.
@@lonerjuan No, I suspect the threads are damaged now. Every time I raise the bridge and play for about 5-10 mins it drops down again.
Going to have to replace bridge.
Was leaning towards Staytrem as it’s more affordable than Mastery or Halon.
@@Spaceman-jo5mz That sucks! I hope you can fix it without spending too much.
lol i just noticed the downvotes... wtf
Oh yeah, people get pissed a lot with some of my videos. It's good though, it means I'm doing something they didn't expect. Or maybe I'm just a dick coming up with excuses.
Man please respect your guitar, you're brutalizing the poor thing. You need to relax haha
That's how I show affection, like lovingly smacking your dog in the snout every once in a while. Sometimes you get a playful lick, sometimes you get stitches.
@@lonerjuan hahaha I see I see. Then it should be fine haha
Graphtech saddles!!!
What would they do on this case?
@@lonerjuan they doesn't make noise and strings is in place, also good lubrication for vibrato use
@@Sapropelle Lubrication is something you should actually avoid on these bridges. The rocking motion is what takes care or eliminating friction points and preserving tuning.
Mr. Fender himself mentions on the patent how it is the friction of the strings over the saddles what makes everything move back and forth together. Getting rid of this friction means the bridge could slip under the strings and not return to its original position.
About the noise, I don't know what you mean. Is it because the screws on the original bridge can rattle sometimes? Don't the Graphtech saddles change the sound a bit?
@@lonerjuan metallic saddles makes unpleasant chimes (mastery, TOM, mustang). Fender's technology is fault due rattling of bridge posts and shallow grooves. Originally it was meant to be played in oldschool style without palm muting or pullofs with slight use of vibrato - just picking, so it's not working properly for today's needs. You can adjust original bridge but it will go out of tune pretty fast and sustain stays low - i don't have such problems with graphtech, and this solution is cheaper than buy overpriced mastery bridge. Also I can put any size of strings instead 12's
@@Sapropelle I have mine on 10s and play like an ape, i.e. crazy bends and hard as hell right hand action. I also abuse the vibrato and as you can see on the video, it won't ever cause tuning problems.
I don't get any rattling on the posts either, never heard of it in fact. What I've heard about (and experienced myself) is rattling from the saddle screws, which is not unique to this bridge and more likely due to poor machining. My Squier is trickier than a high quality American piece in that aspect, but nothing major. The common fix here is adding a bit of Loctite to prevent loosening of the screws, although I never had to go that far. A bit of teflon tape would work as well.
About the low sustain, that is inherent to the overall design and a characteristic I actually embrace, as well as all the harmonics that come with the thing, which are a key part of the sound to me and one of the reasons it stands out from my other guitars.
But pleasant to me and to you might be a different thing, so I see where you come from. Still, none of the issues I see mentioned constantly are something that a proper setup won't fix, which is the point of the video.
Still, it's cool that you found a cheaper solution than those overpriced bridges, and one that got you where you wanted to get. I'm still curious about how it changed the sound. Does it sound warmer than before or something? Because I've heard that could be the case on other guitars.
Stop hitting your jag jeez
She can take it. And we have a safe word.
🎸😂
Roller bridge is better 🙈
Why?
@@lonerjuan the rocking bridges are so unstable, unless it's a really expensive fender I would always opt to change them
@@markhunter1993 The rocking motion of the bridge is fundamental to the stability of the system, as it is clearly and very extensively explained by Leo Fender himself on the patent document linked in the description.
As for the stability itself, I think this video is proof enough that, even on a relatively affordable Squier, this is as stable as it gets.
I mean, did it not look stable to you on the video?
@@lonerjuan roller bridge offer the same result are rocking.
@@markhunter1993 No it doesn't. The rolling bridge relies on presenting as low as possible an opposing force to the string as is passes over with the expected result being that the string goes back to its original place.
The roller does however present a non-negligible resistance in both directions which does not always cancel out after one full use cycle.
Then there's also the non-perfect elasticity of the string. Pay attention at what the strings look like at the point where they rest over the bridge when you remove them. They're irreversibly bent, which means more resistance to movement. That spot also moves and re-forms over time as the string stretches.
None of the previous are detrimental factors to consider on the offset bridge, in fact they're taken advantage of. The string never has to slide over the saddle, that's the whole point.
They are different designs that work differently and achieve different results. I own both, they both have their appeal, but my Jag is way more stable than my roller-equipped guitar or any other floating bridge system I own for that matter (I do not currently have a Floyd Rose, which is on a league of its own if the quality is there).
Again, watch the video, show me a Jaguar with a roller bridge that is even fractionally as stable as this one.
lol
you just play too lighty, that’s why those crappy bridges work for you… i can tell you’re too soft with your guitar just from the way you handle it.
I don't know about being soft, but I'm definitely way too stupid to tell if this is sarcasm or not. I will still get mad a people writing /s on Reddit, but that's just a secondary effect of the stupid thing I mentioned. Cheers!
My sarcasm detection sense is failing on this one, so just in case you're serious, here's me being light on it: th-cam.com/users/shortsvjA7k8eNycc?feature=share
Why the cursing ?
Beats me.
😂
Un watchable.
I'm taking notes. Anything else?
Hilarious!