Just done my New Holland 8360 [same as TM150] which had lost at least 50 hp over Winter as a result of the diaphragm not doing its job of increasing fuel as turbo boost rises. It turned out that the pin was free and the diaphragm in good order. The issue was that there was crud blocking the boost pipe which connects the manifold to the top of the diaphragm housing. Pipe cleaned and lost 50hp restored. Took 20 minutes total. This is a 7.5 litre straight six engine with very nearly 10,000 hours on the clock, which is around 250,000 to 300,000 mile equivalent for the average road vehicle [averaging 25 to 30mph overall]
Don't rotate the diaphragm before taking note of it's original position!!! There is a small dot you can find in the metal some were between the diaphragm it self and the centre of the plate. I would suggest to take a picture before rotating it. Now you can rotate it as you like. You must put it back in the same position before final closing.
When that little pin (guide pin) inside gets stuck in the out position against the fuel pin it reduces or negates the effectiveness of the AFC, the governor in relation to the throttle position will behave as if it sees partial boost all the time and will not vari the fuel curve properly. A stuck out guide pin would cause a rich condition at idle.
Make sure the throttle shaft is indexed properly. If you up your idle screw to correct indexing you will lose a lot of throttle. This is info from a 5.9 cummins but to my understanding they are mechanically the same.
i have just fitted a 300tdi in my defender the engine i fitted has been sat for about 10 years i have started the engine but it just revs at about 2500 rpm there is no throttle response it wont rev any higher unless i pump the primer on the filter housing could this pin thats stuck be the cause of my problem.
Hi, I've got exactly the same issue. Stays at around 2500rpm and no throttle response. Did you find what the cause was? I do have a naturally aspirated engine though so the pump is slightly different
Just started my 200 TDI after 10 years stillstand. It did start immidiately, but revved quite high. Prop around 2500 revs and smoked white smoke. Doesnt react to the speeder. Just revs. Whats more is that we couldnt turn it off second time we startet it. Must be the Magnetvalve stock as it was to start with. Could we be that lucky its just this Problem? Heard of broken springs inside, but not clear how that effects the Pump (fx doesnt start or weak).
My LDA fuel pump is rusted. I am trying to free the governor pin as you show for 3 days, but without success. The governor pin do not show any sign of movement.
I altered my original fuel pump on my Defender 300tdi by adjusting the smoke screw and the Star Nut (by following some instructions from Landyzone) and got a massive result with low down power / torque.... what is the benefit of your engineered boost pin / cone arrangement over the original? Thanks, Bandit..
Does the pin have some resistance? Or is it completely loose? I’m moving it back and forth. Freed up a lot but still some slight amount of stiffness and not sure if it’s normal with a tight fit. Thanks.
Thanks - helpful. Have an old TDi - not been a problem yet - do you know if this starts to happen after a certain period of time or mileage or is there no rhyme / reason?
Hope you can help got a 200tdi. When on idle it’s fine as soon as I apply full throttle it sounds awful like a misfire pop and bang baiscally. What could this be ?
You can rotate the shaft by hand to get a feel for the governor spring. The , hold it to idle, while you line your throttle linkage to line up with the idle stop. This has worked for me.
Just done my New Holland 8360 [same as TM150] which had lost at least 50 hp over Winter as a result of the diaphragm not doing its job of increasing fuel as turbo boost rises. It turned out that the pin was free and the diaphragm in good order. The issue was that there was crud blocking the boost pipe which connects the manifold to the top of the diaphragm housing. Pipe cleaned and lost 50hp restored. Took 20 minutes total. This is a 7.5 litre straight six engine with very nearly 10,000 hours on the clock, which is around 250,000 to 300,000 mile equivalent for the average road vehicle [averaging 25 to 30mph overall]
Thanks for taking the trouble to share this. So many critics why do they even watch if they know so much.
Thank you!
Don't rotate the diaphragm before taking note of it's original position!!!
There is a small dot you can find in the metal some were between the diaphragm it self and the centre of the plate.
I would suggest to take a picture before rotating it.
Now you can rotate it as you like.
You must put it back in the same position before final closing.
I forgot to mark it, is there anything bad that can happen?
Thank you
When that little pin (guide pin) inside gets stuck in the out position against the fuel pin it reduces or negates the effectiveness of the AFC, the governor in relation to the throttle position will behave as if it sees partial boost all the time and will not vari the fuel curve properly. A stuck out guide pin would cause a rich condition at idle.
Good job brother, it helped me to understand the mechanism.
Make sure the throttle shaft is indexed properly. If you up your idle screw to correct indexing you will lose a lot of throttle. This is info from a 5.9 cummins but to my understanding they are mechanically the same.
Thanks
i have just fitted a 300tdi in my defender the engine i fitted has been sat for about 10 years i have started the engine but it just revs at about 2500 rpm there is no throttle response it wont rev any higher unless i pump the primer on the filter housing could this pin thats stuck be the cause of my problem.
Hi, I've got exactly the same issue. Stays at around 2500rpm and no throttle response. Did you find what the cause was?
I do have a naturally aspirated engine though so the pump is slightly different
Just started my 200 TDI after 10 years stillstand. It did start immidiately, but revved quite high. Prop around 2500 revs and smoked white smoke. Doesnt react to the speeder. Just revs.
Whats more is that we couldnt turn it off second time we startet it. Must be the Magnetvalve stock as it was to start with.
Could we be that lucky its just this Problem? Heard of broken springs inside, but not clear how that effects the Pump (fx doesnt start or weak).
My LDA fuel pump is rusted. I am trying to free the governor pin as you show for 3 days, but without success. The governor pin do not show any sign of movement.
I altered my original fuel pump on my Defender 300tdi by adjusting the smoke screw and the Star Nut (by following some instructions from Landyzone) and got a massive result with low down power / torque.... what is the benefit of your engineered boost pin / cone arrangement over the original? Thanks, Bandit..
Does the pin have some resistance? Or is it completely loose? I’m moving it back and forth. Freed up a lot but still some slight amount of stiffness and not sure if it’s normal with a tight fit. Thanks.
Thanks - helpful. Have an old TDi - not been a problem yet - do you know if this starts to happen after a certain period of time or mileage or is there no rhyme / reason?
But.....if we only discarge(unscrew half turn for example) the spring, the turbo start to work before? Thanks
Hope you can help got a 200tdi. When on idle it’s fine as soon as I apply full throttle it sounds awful like a misfire pop and bang baiscally. What could this be ?
We changed the lift pump still the same
How do I put back the throttle arm if I haven't marked its position to linkage shaft sticking out of the pump ??
You can rotate the shaft by hand to get a feel for the governor spring.
The , hold it to idle, while you line your throttle linkage to line up with the idle stop.
This has worked for me.
?
Tdi sound in backround
En francais ça irait mieux
video is horrible if you can't focus on the job
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