Thank you sir. This is one of the few videos on TH-cam that clearly explained how to connect a 3 phase generating system to a battery storage. Well done!
You are such a lovely clever man. Thank you for your kind and patient explanation - you are a hero to people like me who fervently want some independent power source but have limited knowledge and a small purse.
Where else would you be able to find out this stuff, explained so clearly and with good visual aids? This is my go-to channel for anything a bit techy.
I see that you have that yellow symbol next to your name...Can i ask you something? Is it legit? Cause i like his channel and i want to pay for the subscription, but wanna make sure it's the real thing and not some sort of scam. Sorry for just waltzing in with my question like this. Hope you can help me out with my dilemma.
@@thormanfield1305 I don't know how to advise you on the monetary value of the member's content, because I'm at a more basic skill level and get more than my share of info from this side of the channel. Rob definitely spends more time on details and also technical discussions with members on the member's side. But the primary reason I purchased a membership was to support THIS content - what he is putting out there for free. I know the impact Rob has had on my life in motivating me to learn more about energy solutions, and recognize that for each other person benefiting from it in the same manner, the world has exponentially improved. I justify my purchase this way: heck, I pay around $10/month for Netflix - this is half the price, I watch it 5 times as often AND I'm helping make a contribution where it counts the most (influencing people) to reduce waste and pollution. There's not much I pay memberships for, but I really couldn't justify NOT becoming a member of this channel. In my mind, if you truly believe that what Rob's doing in this channel is worthwhile and can afford the spare change, then the member's content is like paying for extra whipped cream and a cherry on top to make sure free hot fudge sundaes for everyone keep coming every week.
Thanks, been an electronics and electrical engineer for 40 years. Very well explained and informative. All points covered in an easy to understand way.
Thanks Robert. You highlighted the not-so-obvious issues one is inclined to overlook and gloss over or not even be aware of. As always you make a useful contribution to essential, relevant knowledge of the time we are in.
Marvelous, fantastic stuff! As a retired expat in the Southern Cone, I need to know this stuff. The electrical net here is iffy at best, and it's 39 effing degrees here today, or 102F. Of the humidity, we shall not speak; it's like a steam bath.
Great info...you've started at my technical level thanks, easy to understand, cant wait for more and a build. Completely agree with purchase of charge controller. I hope well be using easy obtainable parts, as in your previous videos, salvaged from washing machines, cars or whatever works.
I have not found a video from you that describe how to make a three phase turpentine version. Most cheap power converters are three phase windings. Would be a good video to complete your solutions. It’s not easy to work out to generate the resultant solution. Keep up the fantastic work. Thanks Lee
Your an amazing teacher! Having a good understanding of systems is one thing, but simplifying it and teaching others is a whole other level. I've been living off grid for 2 years now with a system I installed, but still found this video useful. On a side note...do you have any thoughts on Nickel Phosphide synthesis? Is hydrothermal the only practical method? I am investigating urea electrolysis using Ni2P as a catalytic electrode.
Thank you, I'm still considering getting batteries and wind or/and solar and this helped me a lot. So I want a duel input for wind and solar, need a charge controller that can do both and thinking of have a varying battery output so I can charge whatever I have. This just helped me understand the controllers more, so many out there
Looking forward to the rest of the series! The charge controller is normally in parallel with the battery, rather than in series as in your explanation/diagram. In fact i don't know of any wind controllers that are in series. Also, typically, when using a grid-tied inverter to "feed your house" you don't have batteries - just a moderate capacitor bank.
love to chat some time, I'm looking to buy a AtlasX and I don't have a battery bank. I have 4 DC to AC solar inverters, 3 Tesla power walls, and 55 solar panels that power the house. I'm just not clear on what's needed to feed the power back into my house @ 60hz, 120/220, from a wind turbine
@@Themachinewon You need a wind turbine grid tied inverter. They're different from solar ones as you have to program a lookup table specific to the turbine in.
Very good description, the only thing I would have added to that description would have been a voltage regulator either inside the charge controller or between it and the rectifiers. You could also use a car or truck alternator at desired voltage of course which is basically what most wind generators you can buy use.
yes mate I have but I am basically trying to uncomplicated a complicated issue - all I am doing here is introducing the concepts as pigeon holes further videos will explore each concept - but I always find a frame work to think in helps understanding - if we throw too much at the topic it just becomes a jumble - or at least that's the way I see it
Robert very interesting but could you do the same but without the battery? For example a small 3 phase wind generator directly tied to the grid through a export meter. Thanks for your time.
Brilliant , I actually understood most of this!! Please when you make the video that actually is to scale with the parts, can you make use of the over charge situation, I can't think of anything worse, than waisting it by a component! I would love to use excess 12v for outdoor lighting! It won't matter when the lights come on! But it's a bonus
One thing you can do is redirect the excess power to your water heater if you convert the elements to 12v. I used to have a device that would do just that but I don't remember what it was called or the company name.
I did this for a 12 volt system. I used a Harley Softail (2007) Rectifier/Regulator. The alternators on Harley's are 3 phase AC and the Rectifier/Regulator is both a 3 phase diode rectifier and a shunt regulator (like the old Triumph's) that clips the output DC voltage at 14.5V. A shunt regulator shunts excess voltage, on the positive portion of the 3 AC waves, to ground. On a wind generator, this shunting acts like a brake and slows down the wind generator and stops it from over speed. Good for unattended 12 volt wind gen systems.
@@ThinkingandTinkering Yes, similar, but no load resistors. When trigger voltage is reached (14.5v) the gates of the 3 SCR's gets a positive charge, turning on the SCR's. The circuit uses the 3 SCR's to short the Positive of each wave to ground, and in a way, the SCR's are the dump load. The SCR's are turned off during the negative cycle of the wave. What is also good about the motorcycle rectifier/regulator, is that it is built in it's own heat sink and is waterproof.
Thanks for the video... This is perfectly timed as I was just starting to look at making my own charge discharge system lol ow though my battery is like 400v lol
Thanks for this info, I do have one point question, is it AC easier / less expensive, to transport from the generator to the charge controller, and DC and wouldn't it be better to run the AC to just before the charge controller?
A wind turbine has a sweet spot where it is extracting max energy from the passing wind. For a conventional horizontal axis turbine the ideal is tip speed is seven times the wind speed. So to get best performance it would be good to control the load on the generator in terms of that ratio of rpm (tip speed) vs wind speed, keeping the ratio as close to ideal as possible.
Robert - may I suggest a project (I'd be very happy to work with you on it, I've been playing around for a while with it) of both an absorption and/or adsorption refrigeration system? Both have advantages and disadvantages but they both produce a very drastic cooling effect from a heat source. In this world, we have so much access to various sources of heat, and often waste heat, which is MORE than enough to power a very sizeable freezer or refrigerator or air conditioner. One example of a heat source would be an combustion engine and using the cooling fluid as the heat source, probably to the point where you can eliminate the radiator (or bypass while using the heat). There are MANY options for the working refrigeration fluid from ammonia, lithium chloride (or lithium something), propane, methanol, acetone, etc and I think most other refrigeration gases will work, the difference is how cold each "refrigerant" will get and how efficient they are. IIRC, ammonia is one of the best for use here and I think using high concentration ammonium hydroxide is sufficient (so ~30%). I think you will find that in most large industrial freezers (meat packing plants, ice making plants, etc) use ammonia, but they use anhydrous, which from what I've read, isn't necessary unless you are looking to get temps to -40 - -80F, and the liquid ammonia should be able to get to -10 to -20F. These systems are already in use in RV's where they use propane or electricity to evaporate the working fluid and when it condenses, it provides the cooling effect. There are so many methods that could be used to generate the heat from burning wood, waste oil, excess heat from running forges, heck, even your car could have a working freezer by using the heat from the engine. This is ideal if you need to run AC/freezer/fridge when the power goes out and you are running a generator. All that heat from the generator is lost, but you can remove the AC/freezer from the power circuit and run it by using the waste heat from the genny. This will even work with "low grade heat" of say 120-160F - as long as it's hot enough to boil the refrigerant, it's enough heat. If you have a lot of "very low grade heat" (say 70-100F outdoor temps), you can use that as well but you may need to run a compressor, which as you know, if you compress the 100F gas, it will get much hotter, and there's ways to reduce power needed for this and get it just hot enough to operate so you don't waste energy on the compressor (small compressor). Finally, this would work well with solar water heating, parabolic heating, coiling black/green hose in the sun or on a black pavement - all absorbing the heat that will then be used to evaporate the working fluid. There are VERY many applications for this, especially in mobile platforms like military, disaster relief, etc. after a Hurricane with no power in an area and it's 100F+ and 100% humidity, you have to have HUGE generators to power general electric use for the temporary refugees, and GOBS more power if you want to cool their living quarters (and workers quarters). So, by incorperating this technology with large generators (6-12 cylinder large diesel or gas genny's @ 50-600KW+) they could reduce electricity demands by over 50% in many areas (it also works as a heat source in cold regions as well). Think of he 70-80% of wasted energy from heat when running a generator, why not put it to use to power things the genny was going to have to output electricity to power (even further wasting more fuel and heat!!!). It's a big project if you really want to build something like this, but even a single cylinder engine if it has a radiator is sufficient as a test model.
I live on a boat so there is a lot more wind than you get in many inland situations, my advice is to check how much wind you have and how reliable it is before going to deeply into wind generation (especially in the UK where you need planning permission to stick anything up above your roof line), solar is often a better choice if you have room for the panels. Having said that I have solar and am also building a turbine using the hub motor from a "hoverboard" wheel, haven't decided which charge controller to use yet, I have a Victron on my solar, it works very well but I don't like how it needs a phone ap to use it properly, Bluetooth is a pain on a steel boat and updates can be problematic.
Lucky you!! Living on a boat was a dream of mine since I was in college. Victron is a great choice, probably one of the best brands of controllers out there. You might want to look at the EPEVER Tracer series controllers with a remote MT50 screen - I hear they're a nice option for RV's and boats. But you'd definitely want the remote screen, they're a pain to program without it.
Fantastic Video. Thank you for sharing 👍 I am a total novice but times are concerning with the price I f everything going up. This lead me to your channel. It seems more Complicated than I had first thought but not impossible I’m so interested in getting one installed but don’t know where to start. Is there any laws regarding wind turbines that n houses in the uk ?
Hello. Thank you for the informative video. I also have a question. I have a distance of 300m from the house to the 5kw turbine (3 phase ac) What is best, to run three cables to the house or have a rectifier at the turbine to convert to DC and run two cables ? ( cheaper). Daniel
As a beginner looking for both intellectual excitement as well as a person-who-had-to-spend-$1000-per-month-on-propane-last-winter-and-would-rather-not-do-that-again-because-I-want-to-buy-a mini-lathe-and-electronic-bits-and-bobs I need both the theory as well as the necessary practical knowledge to actually implement an entire wind-generation system, while daydreaming randomly about air-engines and super-capacitors. Thank you for making these practical videos. Very much appreciated. I would like to build my own charge controller. And use the dumped power to heat daily use water and after that is heated use any further excess power to heat a greenhouse throughout the winter. Could a tub (Like maybe a pressure-capable container like a propane tank) of ink or ink-in-solution have uncontrolled power dumped straight into it which could just increase the pressure, acting like a mechanical charge controller-which could be sized to take as much energy into it as the system could possibly create? And then the pressure and heat energy can be let out by a valve and heat exchangers in a steady usable fashion? It just seems crazy to have an “energy dump”. There must be a way to store the energy efficiently so it is not wasted...and since magnetism is so fascinating somehow magnetic field energy should be storable in the pressurized ink tank. Just randomly daydreaming about the basic principles I am learning through “robmosis”....
I'm making a huge bank of Zinc Bromide batteries which will have charging characteristics different to lead acid, so I will design an arduino/SS Relay solution, and give a copy to Rob gratis to share.
Hello Robert, I am in the UK and have made a homemade water turbine using a hover board motor and thought I had struck lucky when I found this video of how to connect a wind turbine. I think I have binge watched you now for 2 days trying to find the follow up to this video. Can you let me know if you have as yet made the next video running through connecting to the grid or utilising the power? If so I would appreciate the link. If not, why not???? Just like Jonny 5 I need 'more input' eagerly waiting....
Hi Robert, I bought a basic charge controller and it has 3 green input wires for the genorator but I wanted to experiment with some small motors that only have 2 wires. Can I use it as normal and just leave the extra wire disconnected or do I need to have a genorator with 3 phase output to use it? Any help greatly appreciated thank you!
Hi, can I ask what I would need for adding a 2kw wind turbine to our existing solar and battery setup? our solar guy said that the wind turbine would be looked at as another 'power sourse' and the output needs to go into our 'consumer unit' with another meter attached so that our existing battery invertor will monitor that, so seems to me I need someting to control the windturbine, then an invertor. I don't need a 'full' charge controller/dump load etc.on the wind side as not charging any batteries from it as such. thanks for any help
I have a scooter motor driven by pedaling an exercise bike. The no load voltage output, oc, depends on how fast I pedal from 0 up to abt 85vdc. I have a step down converter but I'm thinking i need more than that. If you have time would you have any suggestions?
THANK YOU for a really great video. I have a question I am hoping you can answer please ? I have an ECOFLOW RIVER PRO power station with the extra ECOFLOW battery connected. I have a 3rd party 140W SOLAR panel connected as well. The specifications of the SOLAR PANEL is - Voc is 22.68 V, short circuit current is 8A, Vmp is 18.9V. I tested the SOLAR PANEL and it works well when connected to my ECOFLOW. I had to be careful to select the correct SOLAR panel that operates within the recommended ECOFLOW manufacturers specification. ECOFLOW recommends the following specifications for a SOLAR PANEL (10 to 25V and DC 10A max current). I connected my test meter and I can see that the SOLAR PANEL produces about 110 W and operates within the ECOFLOW recommendations. I conencted the SOLAR PANEL to the ECOFLOW using an MC4 to XT60 converter cable. I would now like to add a wind turbine to my setup ... I am thinking that I should be able to connect a properly spec'd wind turbine to MC4 conenctors and then just connect it to my ECOFLOW's XT60 connector. My questions that I hope you will answer is ... QUESTION 1 - "AM I CORRECT TO SAY THAT A WIND TURBINE PRODUCES AC AND I WILL NEED A WIND TURBINE CHARGE CONTROLLER TO CONVERT THE AC THAT THE WIND TURBINE PRODUCES TO DC ?" ... QUESTION 2 - What WIND TURBINE AND CONTROLLER will you recommend that i use to make sure that I connect a WIND TURBINE that operates safely within the specification that the ECOFLOW allows ? I will really appreciate your help as I know nothing about WIND TURBINES and ECOFLOW does not say anything about adding wind turbines to their power stations but it seems to me that this can in fact be done as long as I stay withing the safe recommended specification ? THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP ...
Hi Robert, can I use a solar mppt charge controller on my homemade wind turbine? The voltages of turbine are within spec of controller and will install relay on dry contact of lithuims battery to dump excess energy. Any advice will be appreciated.
I myself would like to use a charge controller, a midnite classic150, along with a transfer switch when fully charged, the power will go to a dump load, to prevent over spin, along with a possible water heater load, but will likely only use a buck boost converter, with a voltage controlled relay, to switch to a dump load when the battery is full. But this will be good for 20 amps at best, the midnite option will be good for 96 amps! I think I'll study a bit. And build a buck boost, with microcontroller, to help charge my lithium batteries, I just added 18kwh, a total of just over 1000 ah At 24v (29.4 full charged). I think I'll stick with the car alternator style, it will likely only be useful during storms, witch is usually when I need it, a 100-150 amp alternator, should do atleast 50-100 amps in a decent storm, better than nothing, and if I get it above the trees, it may produce in fair weather, you help my imagination alot, although i need to set a goal and stick to it, I keep trying to one up it, before even getting started, I'll end up with a 100,000 amp turbine. That never makes it off the paper. If I do not set goals, it's so easy to make improvements, when you haven't done anything yet! Ha-ha!
yes mate - but here I am basically trying to uncomplicated a complicated issue - all I am doing here is introducing the concepts as pigeon holes further videos will explore each concept - but I always find a frame work to think in helps understanding - if we throw too much at the topic it just becomes a jumble - or at least that's the way I see it
Very interesting stuff! Thank you. What prevents a car alternator from over charging the battery? When a lead acid battery is fully charged and driving at highway speeds, shouldn't it over charge?
What I am really interested in is how to wire up a DPDT relay to automatically switch between using and charging of two batteries or banks so if the bank you are using becomes depleted the system automatically switches to the full bank and the depleted back automatically switches over to being recharged back and forth. Thanks Robert, that sounds good,I'm looking forward to your videos.
Is there a reason why you would not combine both banks together into one large bank in the first place? If you can charge a depleted bank before the secondary is also flat then you'd be putting enough charge into a single double sized one to have it not go flat in the first place I would think?
@@Dean-hs3vq there should be a way to regulate that where you can capture all that energy and not fry anything. I have never heard of anyone charging a battery and discharging it at the same time, it makes no sense to me. Actually I tried it with AA batteries and they would not charge while I was running anything with it/them.
@@BushImports yes you can? that's how pretty much every system in the world works, from car starter batteries to solar systems powering you house. The charge controller regulates what goes into the batteries and you draw from the batteries with whatever load you are driving. The battery is like a reservoir, you pull power out of it and when there is "room" for more, the charge controller lets more power in to refill it, this is why there is talk of dump loads, for when the battery is full the charge controller dumps the excess power elsewhere.
cheers mate - here I am basically trying to uncomplicated a complicated issue - all I am doing here is introducing the concepts as pigeon holes further videos will explore each concept - but I always find a frame work to think in helps understanding - if we throw too much at the topic it just becomes a jumble - or at least that's the way I see it
Hi There are 12v, 24v 48v, 90v, 220v wind turbines (many voltages...) Do you know, how I can connect 220v(240v)AC wind turbine of grid Cause its produce already 220v does it need some controller, or I can connect direct to it apiances?? Thank you
Robert, you are jumping from one subject ro another. None of us can establish smt useful out of this rain of concepts :) I would really appreciate if you could suggest us smt like a lamp comprising mechanical energy storage suitable for 3rd world countries. this channel should result in something really useful for humanity I wish.
hiya mate - I know what you mean - but haven't you noticed? - any more than 3 videos on one subject and the views drop into the floor. I basically run the channel from advertising revenue and without views there is no income - no income - no channel. I am sorry about that - but that's the way it is.
4:40 Assuming one had a single phase AC motor, for clarity, use a single full bridge rectifier made up of four rectifyers rather than a single rectifyer. Obviously a DC motor is already DC output, and it does not need to be rectified.
The Tension Turbine is based on the bicycle wheel. The bicycle wheel is the lightest, strongest, most efficient rotating device known. The Tension Turbine is the most viable of all wind turbines. The Tension Turbine: Half the weight, twice the power.
Accurate and right to the point, but have you ever heard of active rectification? With active rectification you dont need any switch..... the diodes can adapt to the load! Active rectifier Diodes as rectifiers are nice, simple and inexpensive, but they are always associated with a loss of voltage and therefore also of power. With a normal silicon diode, the losses are in the order of 0. 7. . . 1 W per ampere, with a Schottky diode they are still 0. 4. . . 0. 5 W/A. With a bridge rectifier, the losses are even double, since current always flows through two diode paths. Two years ago, this consideration led to the development of an active rectifier consisting of controlled power MOSFETs by Wolfgang Schubert, which was published in the Elektor Magazine 2006. The circuit consisting of a quad opamp and four MOSFETs was completely symmetrical and simulated an active bridge rectifier with a very low threshold voltage. By Thomas Scherer About trade fairs & Testing Published in Elektor 7/2008 on p. 100 THX for the video
yes mate I have but I am basically trying to uncomplicated a complicated issue - all I am doing here is introducing the concepts as pigeon holes further videos will explore each concept - but I always find a frame work to think in helps understanding - if we throw too much at the topic it just becomes a jumble - or at least that's the way I see it
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My brain hurts when dealing with electricity stuff. But I actually understood this time. Thanks. You’re the best.
Thank you sir. This is one of the few videos on TH-cam that clearly explained how to connect a 3 phase generating system to a battery storage. Well done!
Please telo shortly- how 3 connect to batteries ?
You are such a lovely clever man. Thank you for your kind and patient explanation - you are a hero to people like me who fervently want some independent power source but have limited knowledge and a small purse.
Where else would you be able to find out this stuff, explained so clearly and with good visual aids? This is my go-to channel for anything a bit techy.
This sort of easy to understand tuition from Robert is invaluable! Many thanks again! 👏✔👏✔
I see that you have that yellow symbol next to your name...Can i ask you something? Is it legit? Cause i like his channel and i want to pay for the subscription, but wanna make sure it's the real thing and not some sort of scam. Sorry for just waltzing in with my question like this. Hope you can help me out with my dilemma.
Glad it was helpful!
@@thormanfield1305 Yes, it is very worth subscribing. Give it a go...
@@thormanfield1305 I don't know how to advise you on the monetary value of the member's content, because I'm at a more basic skill level and get more than my share of info from this side of the channel. Rob definitely spends more time on details and also technical discussions with members on the member's side. But the primary reason I purchased a membership was to support THIS content - what he is putting out there for free. I know the impact Rob has had on my life in motivating me to learn more about energy solutions, and recognize that for each other person benefiting from it in the same manner, the world has exponentially improved. I justify my purchase this way: heck, I pay around $10/month for Netflix - this is half the price, I watch it 5 times as often AND I'm helping make a contribution where it counts the most (influencing people) to reduce waste and pollution. There's not much I pay memberships for, but I really couldn't justify NOT becoming a member of this channel. In my mind, if you truly believe that what Rob's doing in this channel is worthwhile and can afford the spare change, then the member's content is like paying for extra whipped cream and a cherry on top to make sure free hot fudge sundaes for everyone keep coming every week.
@@grahamh4960 I will, thank you
Sir, Robert. It’s like poetry every time you speak. Thanks for the outstanding knowledge and wisdom. It means a lot to every single one of us!
Thanks, been an electronics and electrical engineer for 40 years. Very well explained and informative. All points covered in an easy to understand way.
Professor Robert, speaks again. Yet another class you don't want to miss. Thx Robert, for all your work!
cheers mate - thanks for taking the time to post
Wonderful, calm, clear, concise and highly informative practical educational video. Full marks laddie! You are a scholar and a gentleman.
Thanks Robert. You highlighted the not-so-obvious issues one is inclined to overlook and gloss over or not even be aware of. As always you make a useful contribution to essential, relevant knowledge of the time we are in.
As always great show ....it’s a pleasure learning from you....
agreed please keep them up
cheers mate
I think you explained this very well. Thanks for the upload Robert.
Glad it was helpful!
Marvelous, fantastic stuff! As a retired expat in the Southern Cone, I need to know this stuff. The electrical net here is iffy at best, and it's 39 effing degrees here today, or 102F. Of the humidity, we shall not speak; it's like a steam bath.
Enormously helpful Robert. Something that seems complicated explained in layman's terms. Nice one m8. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for this! These videos are priceless for novices to the subject, such as myself!
glad you liked it mate - cheers
This was literally the best and nicest explanation of the topic. Thank you for your work!
Seeing that three phase rectifier on paper was just what I needed. Always a pleasure Mr. Smith!
cheers mate
Great info...you've started at my technical level thanks, easy to understand, cant wait for more and a build. Completely agree with purchase of charge controller. I hope well be using easy obtainable parts, as in your previous videos, salvaged from washing machines, cars or whatever works.
Thanks for the clear explanation. Love your calm voice tone and organized delivery. Just subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Very well put. Thankyou for your generous wisdom man! 🙇🏻♂️
thanks a ton! That was a huge help, and I'm really looking forward to future installments on this topic.
Thank you very much. Information is very useful.
Thank you Robert, you are so helpful...this is very clear. Also a great archive! Thank you again!`
I have not found a video from you that describe how to make a three phase turpentine version. Most cheap power converters are three phase windings. Would be a good video to complete your solutions. It’s not easy to work out to generate the resultant solution. Keep up the fantastic work. Thanks Lee
"Put sugar in your coffee..." was EXACTLY what I was thinking - a bit much really!
Gawd I worked in R&D at the Atomic Energy, you were everyone rolled into one.
Just what I needed! Many thanks! 🌎✊🏽🌻✌🏽
glad you liked it mate - cheers
Your an amazing teacher! Having a good understanding of systems is one thing, but simplifying it and teaching others is a whole other level. I've been living off grid for 2 years now with a system I installed, but still found this video useful. On a side note...do you have any thoughts on Nickel Phosphide synthesis? Is hydrothermal the only practical method? I am investigating urea electrolysis using Ni2P as a catalytic electrode.
cheers mate and I will have to have a look at it
Lovely stuff. Thanks 🙏
Very interesting. Looking forward to more on this topic.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you, I'm still considering getting batteries and wind or/and solar and this helped me a lot. So I want a duel input for wind and solar, need a charge controller that can do both and thinking of have a varying battery output so I can charge whatever I have. This just helped me understand the controllers more, so many out there
Thankyou Robert, you are awsome.
Very good. From Colombia. Thanks.
Thank you too!
MAN, HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS INFO!!!!
many thanks robert. love your videos.
best regards.
cheers mate
Very well done. Thank you
You explain it nicely. I am building a vertical wind turbine now and need more info to get all the parts I need. I’ll have a diy video coming out.
New Sub. Keep up the good vids. Im sure I need to get caught up on vids.
Do you have a amazon or some link for these 4 parts that you would recommend?
duuude If u just was my teacher ! Thanks for ur video very usefull!
Thanks Robert yet another fab video very very watchable talant is a great thing to have cheers
Glad you enjoyed it
Really great video.
Finally and explanation on this subject for Humans! :-)
Thank you
Looking forward to the rest of the series! The charge controller is normally in parallel with the battery, rather than in series as in your explanation/diagram. In fact i don't know of any wind controllers that are in series. Also, typically, when using a grid-tied inverter to "feed your house" you don't have batteries - just a moderate capacitor bank.
sure - but this is really basic stuff mate and it's not really a circuit more of a block diagram
love to chat some time, I'm looking to buy a AtlasX and I don't have a battery bank. I have 4 DC to AC solar inverters, 3 Tesla power walls, and 55 solar panels that power the house. I'm just not clear on what's needed to feed the power back into my house @ 60hz, 120/220, from a wind turbine
@@Themachinewon You need a wind turbine grid tied inverter. They're different from solar ones as you have to program a lookup table specific to the turbine in.
finally I can understand what go's on thank you for making it understandable
Flawless video!
Yey you have made another video. I love you x
Great video I use a midnite classic and a voltacon solar inverter
Very good description, the only thing I would have added to that description would have been a voltage regulator either inside the charge controller or between it and the rectifiers. You could also use a car or truck alternator at desired voltage of course which is basically what most wind generators you can buy use.
yes mate I have but I am basically trying to uncomplicated a complicated issue - all I am doing here is introducing the concepts as pigeon holes further videos will explore each concept - but I always find a frame work to think in helps understanding - if we throw too much at the topic it just becomes a jumble - or at least that's the way I see it
Robert very interesting but could you do the same but without the battery? For example a small 3 phase wind generator directly tied to the grid through a export meter.
Thanks for your time.
Really brilliant information. This is perfect for my next project, on my other channel which I will and should have subscribed to you before. 👍👍👍🎸🎸🎸
cheers mate - thanks for the sub
Brilliant , I actually understood most of this!! Please when you make the video that actually is to scale with the parts, can you make use of the over charge situation, I can't think of anything worse, than waisting it by a component! I would love to use excess 12v for outdoor lighting! It won't matter when the lights come on! But it's a bonus
One thing you can do is redirect the excess power to your water heater if you convert the elements to 12v. I used to have a device that would do just that but I don't remember what it was called or the company name.
I did this for a 12 volt system. I used a Harley Softail (2007) Rectifier/Regulator. The alternators on Harley's are 3 phase AC and the Rectifier/Regulator is both a 3 phase diode rectifier and a shunt regulator (like the old Triumph's) that clips the output DC voltage at 14.5V. A shunt regulator shunts excess voltage, on the positive portion of the 3 AC waves, to ground. On a wind generator, this shunting acts like a brake and slows down the wind generator and stops it from over speed. Good for unattended 12 volt wind gen systems.
so like a dump load?
@@ThinkingandTinkering Yes, similar, but no load resistors. When trigger voltage is reached (14.5v) the gates of the 3 SCR's gets a positive charge, turning on the SCR's. The circuit uses the 3 SCR's to short the Positive of each wave to ground, and in a way, the SCR's are the dump load. The SCR's are turned off during the negative cycle of the wave. What is also good about the motorcycle rectifier/regulator, is that it is built in it's own heat sink and is waterproof.
Good explanation :)
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video... This is perfectly timed as I was just starting to look at making my own charge discharge system lol ow though my battery is like 400v lol
Thank You
Even I could follow that. Cheers!
lol - awesome mate
Brilliant. Just carry on doing what you do for gods sake
cheers mate
Thank you
Thank you.
❤ Thank you
Also thank you for the advice
cheers mate
Thanks for this info, I do have one point question, is it AC easier / less expensive, to transport from the generator to the charge controller, and DC and wouldn't it be better to run the AC to just before the charge controller?
A wind turbine has a sweet spot where it is extracting max energy from the passing wind. For a conventional horizontal axis turbine the ideal is tip speed is seven times the wind speed. So to get best performance it would be good to control the load on the generator in terms of that ratio of rpm (tip speed) vs wind speed, keeping the ratio as close to ideal as possible.
Robert - may I suggest a project (I'd be very happy to work with you on it, I've been playing around for a while with it) of both an absorption and/or adsorption refrigeration system? Both have advantages and disadvantages but they both produce a very drastic cooling effect from a heat source. In this world, we have so much access to various sources of heat, and often waste heat, which is MORE than enough to power a very sizeable freezer or refrigerator or air conditioner.
One example of a heat source would be an combustion engine and using the cooling fluid as the heat source, probably to the point where you can eliminate the radiator (or bypass while using the heat).
There are MANY options for the working refrigeration fluid from ammonia, lithium chloride (or lithium something), propane, methanol, acetone, etc and I think most other refrigeration gases will work, the difference is how cold each "refrigerant" will get and how efficient they are. IIRC, ammonia is one of the best for use here and I think using high concentration ammonium hydroxide is sufficient (so ~30%). I think you will find that in most large industrial freezers (meat packing plants, ice making plants, etc) use ammonia, but they use anhydrous, which from what I've read, isn't necessary unless you are looking to get temps to -40 - -80F, and the liquid ammonia should be able to get to -10 to -20F.
These systems are already in use in RV's where they use propane or electricity to evaporate the working fluid and when it condenses, it provides the cooling effect.
There are so many methods that could be used to generate the heat from burning wood, waste oil, excess heat from running forges, heck, even your car could have a working freezer by using the heat from the engine.
This is ideal if you need to run AC/freezer/fridge when the power goes out and you are running a generator. All that heat from the generator is lost, but you can remove the AC/freezer from the power circuit and run it by using the waste heat from the genny.
This will even work with "low grade heat" of say 120-160F - as long as it's hot enough to boil the refrigerant, it's enough heat. If you have a lot of "very low grade heat" (say 70-100F outdoor temps), you can use that as well but you may need to run a compressor, which as you know, if you compress the 100F gas, it will get much hotter, and there's ways to reduce power needed for this and get it just hot enough to operate so you don't waste energy on the compressor (small compressor).
Finally, this would work well with solar water heating, parabolic heating, coiling black/green hose in the sun or on a black pavement - all absorbing the heat that will then be used to evaporate the working fluid.
There are VERY many applications for this, especially in mobile platforms like military, disaster relief, etc. after a Hurricane with no power in an area and it's 100F+ and 100% humidity, you have to have HUGE generators to power general electric use for the temporary refugees, and GOBS more power if you want to cool their living quarters (and workers quarters). So, by incorperating this technology with large generators (6-12 cylinder large diesel or gas genny's @ 50-600KW+) they could reduce electricity demands by over 50% in many areas (it also works as a heat source in cold regions as well). Think of he 70-80% of wasted energy from heat when running a generator, why not put it to use to power things the genny was going to have to output electricity to power (even further wasting more fuel and heat!!!).
It's a big project if you really want to build something like this, but even a single cylinder engine if it has a radiator is sufficient as a test model.
I know a fair bit about this kind of cooling mate and yes there are a ton of applications - it is something I am interested in for sure
Thanks very much
You are welcome
I live on a boat so there is a lot more wind than you get in many inland situations, my advice is to check how much wind you have and how reliable it is before going to deeply into wind generation (especially in the UK where you need planning permission to stick anything up above your roof line), solar is often a better choice if you have room for the panels.
Having said that I have solar and am also building a turbine using the hub motor from a "hoverboard" wheel, haven't decided which charge controller to use yet, I have a Victron on my solar, it works very well but I don't like how it needs a phone ap to use it properly, Bluetooth is a pain on a steel boat and updates can be problematic.
Lucky you!! Living on a boat was a dream of mine since I was in college. Victron is a great choice, probably one of the best brands of controllers out there. You might want to look at the EPEVER Tracer series controllers with a remote MT50 screen - I hear they're a nice option for RV's and boats. But you'd definitely want the remote screen, they're a pain to program without it.
@@NorthernKitty I'll check them out, thanks.
good advice mate - cheers
Fantastic Video. Thank you for sharing 👍 I am a total novice but times are concerning with the price I f everything going up. This lead me to your channel. It seems more
Complicated than I had first thought but not impossible I’m so interested in getting one installed but don’t know where to start. Is there any laws regarding wind turbines that n houses in the uk ?
Hello. Thank you for the informative video. I also have a question. I have a distance of 300m from the house to the 5kw turbine (3 phase ac) What is best, to run three cables to the house or have a rectifier at the turbine to convert to DC and run two cables ? ( cheaper). Daniel
As a beginner looking for both intellectual excitement as well as a person-who-had-to-spend-$1000-per-month-on-propane-last-winter-and-would-rather-not-do-that-again-because-I-want-to-buy-a mini-lathe-and-electronic-bits-and-bobs I need both the theory as well as the necessary practical knowledge to actually implement an entire wind-generation system, while daydreaming randomly about air-engines and super-capacitors. Thank you for making these practical videos. Very much appreciated. I would like to build my own charge controller. And use the dumped power to heat daily use water and after that is heated use any further excess power to heat a greenhouse throughout the winter. Could a tub (Like maybe a pressure-capable container like a propane tank) of ink or ink-in-solution have uncontrolled power dumped straight into it which could just increase the pressure, acting like a mechanical charge controller-which could be sized to take as much energy into it as the system could possibly create? And then the pressure and heat energy can be let out by a valve and heat exchangers in a steady usable fashion? It just seems crazy to have an “energy dump”. There must be a way to store the energy efficiently so it is not wasted...and since magnetism is so fascinating somehow magnetic field energy should be storable in the pressurized ink tank. Just randomly daydreaming about the basic principles I am learning through “robmosis”....
I'm making a huge bank of Zinc Bromide batteries which will have charging characteristics different to lead acid, so I will design an arduino/SS Relay solution, and give a copy to Rob gratis to share.
clearly stated information, thanks! looking forward to more videos on this subject
cheers mate - glad you liked it
Hello Robert, I am in the UK and have made a homemade water turbine using a hover board motor and thought I had struck lucky when I found this video of how to connect a wind turbine. I think I have binge watched you now for 2 days trying to find the follow up to this video. Can you let me know if you have as yet made the next video running through connecting to the grid or utilising the power? If so I would appreciate the link. If not, why not???? Just like Jonny 5 I need 'more input' eagerly waiting....
Hi Robert, I bought a basic charge controller and it has 3 green input wires for the genorator but I wanted to experiment with some small motors that only have 2 wires.
Can I use it as normal and just leave the extra wire disconnected or do I need to have a genorator with 3 phase output to use it?
Any help greatly appreciated thank you!
Hi, can I ask what I would need for adding a 2kw wind turbine to our existing solar and battery setup? our solar guy said that the wind turbine would be looked at as another 'power sourse' and the output needs to go into our 'consumer unit' with another meter attached so that our existing battery invertor will monitor that, so seems to me I need someting to control the windturbine, then an invertor. I don't need a 'full' charge controller/dump load etc.on the wind side as not charging any batteries from it as such. thanks for any help
I have a scooter motor driven by pedaling an exercise bike. The no load voltage output, oc, depends on how fast I pedal from 0 up to abt 85vdc. I have a step down converter but I'm thinking i need more than that. If you have time would you have any suggestions?
THANK YOU for a really great video. I have a question I am hoping you can answer please ? I have an ECOFLOW RIVER PRO power station with the extra ECOFLOW battery connected. I have a 3rd party 140W SOLAR panel connected as well. The specifications of the SOLAR PANEL is - Voc is 22.68 V, short circuit current is 8A, Vmp is 18.9V. I tested the SOLAR PANEL and it works well when connected to my ECOFLOW. I had to be careful to select the correct SOLAR panel that operates within the recommended ECOFLOW manufacturers specification. ECOFLOW recommends the following specifications for a SOLAR PANEL (10 to 25V and DC 10A max current). I connected my test meter and I can see that the SOLAR PANEL produces about 110 W and operates within the ECOFLOW recommendations. I conencted the SOLAR PANEL to the ECOFLOW using an MC4 to XT60 converter cable. I would now like to add a wind turbine to my setup ... I am thinking that I should be able to connect a properly spec'd wind turbine to MC4 conenctors and then just connect it to my ECOFLOW's XT60 connector. My questions that I hope you will answer is ... QUESTION 1 - "AM I CORRECT TO SAY THAT A WIND TURBINE PRODUCES AC AND I WILL NEED A WIND TURBINE CHARGE CONTROLLER TO CONVERT THE AC THAT THE WIND TURBINE PRODUCES TO DC ?" ... QUESTION 2 - What WIND TURBINE AND CONTROLLER will you recommend that i use to make sure that I connect a WIND TURBINE that operates safely within the specification that the ECOFLOW allows ? I will really appreciate your help as I know nothing about WIND TURBINES and ECOFLOW does not say anything about adding wind turbines to their power stations but it seems to me that this can in fact be done as long as I stay withing the safe recommended specification ? THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP ...
Hi Robert
Great posts. Have you tested any off the shelf turbines that are any good. Want to add one to my solar panel storage
Regards
Steve
Hi Robert, can I use a solar mppt charge controller on my homemade wind turbine? The voltages of turbine are within spec of controller and will install relay on dry contact of lithuims battery to dump excess energy. Any advice will be appreciated.
As you know... If I already have MPPT managing my solar input, can I add on the side a wind charge controler completely independant ?
I myself would like to use a charge controller, a midnite classic150, along with a transfer switch when fully charged, the power will go to a dump load, to prevent over spin, along with a possible water heater load, but will likely only use a buck boost converter, with a voltage controlled relay, to switch to a dump load when the battery is full. But this will be good for 20 amps at best, the midnite option will be good for 96 amps! I think I'll study a bit. And build a buck boost, with microcontroller, to help charge my lithium batteries, I just added 18kwh, a total of just over 1000 ah At 24v (29.4 full charged). I think I'll stick with the car alternator style, it will likely only be useful during storms, witch is usually when I need it, a 100-150 amp alternator, should do atleast 50-100 amps in a decent storm, better than nothing, and if I get it above the trees, it may produce in fair weather, you help my imagination alot, although i need to set a goal and stick to it, I keep trying to one up it, before even getting started, I'll end up with a 100,000 amp turbine. That never makes it off the paper. If I do not set goals, it's so easy to make improvements, when you haven't done anything yet! Ha-ha!
yes mate - but here I am basically trying to uncomplicated a complicated issue - all I am doing here is introducing the concepts as pigeon holes further videos will explore each concept - but I always find a frame work to think in helps understanding - if we throw too much at the topic it just becomes a jumble - or at least that's the way I see it
A question for you. Can you use 3 of your new style single phase DC wind generators with a single 3 phase rectifier?
Constant Current and Constant Voltage is your friend when dealing with LiFePO4 battery banks.
for sure
Great video. Incidentally, if you’re using a DC motor to generate electricity, you don’t need the rectifier.
Very interesting stuff! Thank you.
What prevents a car alternator from over charging the battery? When a lead acid battery is fully charged and driving at highway speeds, shouldn't it over charge?
They are regulated to only put out 14ish volts.
they already contain. regulator mate - normally on an alternator conversion you chop that out
@@ThinkingandTinkering Thanks
Could your dump be your electrical panel to sell back to the grid?
Thank you for the video, Robert... Best investment I made was the MPPT charge controller.... It takes care of the largest investment of batteries....
Genius!!
cheers mate
So if I understand right I can go from my inverter to my house 110 outlet to help lower my electric bill ? Is that correct?
What about a lacquer pot system for the spray paint? the heated paint would spread pretty evenly with one...and refillable
nice one mate - cheers
What I am really interested in is how to wire up a DPDT relay to automatically switch between using and charging of two batteries or banks so if the bank you are using becomes depleted the system automatically switches to the full bank and the depleted back automatically switches over to being recharged back and forth. Thanks Robert, that sounds good,I'm looking forward to your videos.
Is there a reason why you would not combine both banks together into one large bank in the first place? If you can charge a depleted bank before the secondary is also flat then you'd be putting enough charge into a single double sized one to have it not go flat in the first place I would think?
@@popuptoaster You can't use a battery and charge it at the same time.
@@Dean-hs3vq there should be a way to regulate that where you can capture all that energy and not fry anything.
I have never heard of anyone charging a battery and discharging it at the same time, it makes no sense to me. Actually I tried it with AA batteries and they would not charge while I was running anything with it/them.
@@BushImports yes you can? that's how pretty much every system in the world works, from car starter batteries to solar systems powering you house.
The charge controller regulates what goes into the batteries and you draw from the batteries with whatever load you are driving. The battery is like a reservoir, you pull power out of it and when there is "room" for more, the charge controller lets more power in to refill it, this is why there is talk of dump loads, for when the battery is full the charge controller dumps the excess power elsewhere.
cheers mate - here I am basically trying to uncomplicated a complicated issue - all I am doing here is introducing the concepts as pigeon holes further videos will explore each concept - but I always find a frame work to think in helps understanding - if we throw too much at the topic it just becomes a jumble - or at least that's the way I see it
Hi,can I connect a wind turbine to a controlor,and put mc4 connectors at the end of the positive,and negative,and connect it to my bluetti
Hello Sir could you recommend a wind turbine for a home?
Robert can you please mention the voltages used. Thanks Ray
Sorry - I know this is old, you may not see this. But did further video's come out on this? I couldn't find them searching through the older videos.
Hi mate, can i do this with out a battery and just feed it back into the grid?
Can you connect a motor with fan belt to the wind turbine motor to
Turn it will it work or it will turn too fast
Hi
There are 12v, 24v 48v, 90v, 220v wind turbines (many voltages...)
Do you know, how I can connect 220v(240v)AC wind turbine of grid
Cause its produce already 220v does it need some controller, or I can connect direct to it apiances??
Thank you
Robert, you are jumping from one subject ro another. None of us can establish smt useful out of this rain of concepts :)
I would really appreciate if you could suggest us smt like a lamp comprising mechanical energy storage suitable for 3rd world countries. this channel should result in something really useful for humanity I wish.
hiya mate - I know what you mean - but haven't you noticed? - any more than 3 videos on one subject and the views drop into the floor. I basically run the channel from advertising revenue and without views there is no income - no income - no channel. I am sorry about that - but that's the way it is.
4:40 Assuming one had a single phase AC motor, for clarity, use a single full bridge rectifier made up of four rectifyers rather than a single rectifyer.
Obviously a DC motor is already DC output, and it does not need to be rectified.
The Tension Turbine is based on the bicycle wheel. The bicycle wheel is the lightest, strongest, most efficient rotating device known.
The Tension Turbine is the most viable of all wind turbines.
The Tension Turbine: Half the weight, twice the power.
Accurate and right to the point, but have you ever heard of active rectification?
With active rectification you dont need any switch.....
the diodes can adapt to the load!
Active rectifier Diodes as rectifiers are nice, simple and inexpensive, but they are always associated with a loss of voltage and therefore also of power. With a normal silicon diode, the losses are in the order of 0. 7. . . 1 W per ampere, with a Schottky diode they are still 0. 4. . . 0. 5 W/A. With a bridge rectifier, the losses are even double, since current always flows through two diode paths. Two years ago, this consideration led to the development of an active rectifier consisting of controlled power MOSFETs by Wolfgang Schubert, which was published in the Elektor Magazine 2006. The circuit consisting of a quad opamp and four MOSFETs was completely symmetrical and simulated an active bridge rectifier with a very low threshold voltage.
By Thomas Scherer About trade fairs & Testing Published in Elektor 7/2008 on p. 100
THX for the video
yes mate I have but I am basically trying to uncomplicated a complicated issue - all I am doing here is introducing the concepts as pigeon holes further videos will explore each concept - but I always find a frame work to think in helps understanding - if we throw too much at the topic it just becomes a jumble - or at least that's the way I see it