Good job, I like the procedure you went through - best way to keep from getting a callback from a multiple offender or thinking you got it gassed-up, good to go, only to find out you got a bad sensor or board. ...you were wayyy too diplomatic about the level of thought put into the design, lol
@@HVACinSC The Day & Night variable speed Air Handlers have the boards mounted low down on the air handler like that too - gonna be fried first time the condensate drain backs up or the coil freezes.
mike_HVAC , I seems that,’designers’ do NOT Speak to th test guys in the factory, all se units have the boards in the MOST CRAPPY areas, DRAIN BLOCKAG, that does NOT HAPPN N REAL WORLD. Wanna bet? there has go be better way.
Good call. Not sure I would have replaced the whole coil but everyone does it the way they see fit. I usually show the customer where that leak was and the repair and if another leak springs in a similar way then replace it. I also repair many leaks on the cap tubes on those things.
I've repaired hundreds of simple leaks like this out of warranty. It's stupid simple. However when a part like this is under parts and labor warranty you arent doing the customer any justice by fixing the leaking coil. The likelyhood of more leaks is high and I promise you if it is out if warranty when the next leak springs and you didn't replace that coil when you found the original leak, you can kiss that customer goodbye. We choose to do what's best for our clients and replacing this leaking coil under parts and labor warranty is the best option.
@@HVACinSC I'm all about customer service. In fact I'm a 1 man show in business now for 25 years. My whole business is based on the customer service. In all my years of fixing that type leak I havent had a call back yet and I base that only on customers that have been mine for years and years and not those that call once and are never heard from again. Dont get me wrong I'm not cracking on you for doing it this way in fact its outstanding that you do it. I'm simply saying that in my experience I've found it unnecessary and thus far it's worked out. If one of my customers were in year 9 of an install developed that leak and a similar leak developed 3 years later I'd foot the bill on a new coil for them. Hasnt happened yet knock on wood. We all have our own methods but bottom line is if the customer is satisfied it's all good.
Good find.. That big blue i found thinning down it bubbles up more. I has a gas line that wouldn't hold an air test and i was going crazy looking spraying and nothing. I was telling my story to some friends one guy heard worked for the gas company and he told me thin it out, he said sometimes the mix is too strong and won't bubble up, but thin like kids bubbles it will grow and II'll find it faster.. He was right for me .i had mor success thinning it out
Ive never had to thin it out in the 10 plus years I've been using the product. I just apply it and wait 5 minutes. If there's a leak it will show 100% of the time. Even the tiniest of leaks will show up as a white foam (micro bubbles). The key is to have the patience to wait the 5 minutes. Best bubble leak detector on the market hands down. I feel that thinning the product will produce larger bubbles faster but will reduce the size of leaks the product is capable of finding. Thanks for watching.
I use sunlight for small leaks and baby blue for big ones. Sunlight bubbles like crazy. But you need to whip it off after as it will discolour your copper and metal.
I literally did the exact same thing today with a Lennox. Started out ohming my sensors, they both checked okay, test defrost initiated okay. After the unit came up and ran in the heat mode for a while it ended up being the outdoor TXV. It had dropped my pressure down and put the board in a low pressure lockout. Homeowner would have never had a clue it was happening but it was 77° yesterday (broke a record high) and they turned on the AC and it never cooled the house down. That's when they went out back and noticed the ODU wasn't running. It's surprising that Infinity didn't trip out on some kind of fault. I've always hated that style of package unit and what a terrible idea putting those control boards inside of the blower compartment. 😒
Dang 77 degrees what part of the country do you live in? I'm going to guess in South Florida. I'm in Arizona and we had snow last week (Northern AZ of course at a higher elevation). I also agree about the bad design on the location of that board.
Placing a pcb in a spot next to where water drips as well as next to the compressor compartment where radical hot and cold cycles will effect said pcb can only be explained by "planned obsolescence". dumb AF to techs and consumers but brilliant to investors and beneficiary stock holders. Why every single unit out there be it a window AC or a roof top pool dehumidification system, doesn't have a refrigerant charge sensor of litterally any kind only strengthens my point. Some do and some don't. some have lil windows to look at the charge/oil levels some don't. they ALL should have something other then a symptom.
Shannon Knight HVAC ont recall bd,,but it was a furnace, in cooling season, all ICED UP but the control board was below the ‘A’ COIL, so needed to get it defrosted, but 1 hell o a time keeping that board dry , even the floor was wet, sure was low,did find leak, on roof ( R22), must have been 25 years ago, as been retired 15 y, now 77 year old , but I still go ot told s with problems
I like Carrier. Just dont like how they divert the defrost condensate on these units. I personally think there is no brand currently on the market that is head and shoulders above the others. They are all flawed.
HVAC in SC have you ever been in a house with that CHINESE DRYWALL?, While in a supplyhouse in FLORIDA, a guy approached me, as I had on an old RSES shirt,
my problem the repairman didn't repair it and cost me over $ 500. 00 dollar he just looks over everything just wastes time & changes my gas and it does not need it but this video did help me thank you
He added refrigerant and the low side pressure came up if there was a partial restriction in the accurator ( piston valve) it would have done nothing to the system pressures. Just a tip if you are checking the charge on a package unit that does have a TXV subcooling is the fella you want to be looking at other wise how would you know if the valve is shagged or the units short?
This is more of a social presentation -- "shop talk" - than an instructional one. It's still helpful and useful, but it assumes a lot of experience on the part of the viewer. Reading all the comments helps fill in some of the gaps.
Its not meant to be an instructional video. There are schools for that. I'm not an instructor or a teacher.. just a tech showing what I do day to day. 👍
Hey SC..Damian here from AZ...I am graduating soon from hvac school here in phx. Would you ever try to repair the coil? In this case, it seems like you might have a decent chance of success, as opposed to a leak in the middle of the coil, where fins are involved. Thank you for your advice!
I pulled a Carrier R-22 unit that was being replaced at the insistence of the homeowner about 5 years ago... 1999 manufacture, put the odu and a-coil right in my place and it's been going strong since. They don't make em like that anymore. Simple and built like a tank. I think that was an 11 or 12 seer unit. These compressors and condensers just have to run at a ridiculously high pressure these days.
I hated those Carrier gas packs as well having to flip the panel on end to cover the blower compartment while testing the system. Fortunately I don't see much of those anymore because the area I work in (Verde Valley, AZ) has mostly Lennox, Day & Night and Trane systems. Every once in a blue moon one might see a Carrier system out here. I did the maintenance at the Camp Verde Public Library last week and they've got Carrier Infinity split systems there.
9:00 indoor coil dirty or dirty filter in heat would cause a high pressure situation, BUT, it can also cause the charge to look artificially higher than it is, also, that's an easily fixable leak, rather than the headache of replacing the whole coil. And, I'm still waiting to see a bubble from that spot you found, bubble solution will gather with bubbles at the bottom of fittings, I always verify that I see bubbling. Anyway, nice video and troubleshooting!
Your point? 🤔 You mean the one I made in the video?🙄 Seems legit. And since you edited your original comment, the coil was under parts and labor warranty. Repairing it would cost the customer $$ where replacement would not. Im not into cheating my customers. As far as you seeing the leak or not, that is irrelevant. That was were the leak was and it has since been replaced and working great but thank for the entertaining video analysis. 👌
That is exactly what I do. Test the sensor first. Also, if I suspect a refrigerant leak on a call I check the service ports for leaks (electronic) before I put the gauges on. Hope that helps someone. Good video.
Manufacturer will only approve the side that's leaking. It's a special order part not generally stocked. In my experience these models have very few condenser coil leaks. I've only seen about 6 in 15 years plus.
@@HVACinSC I enjoyed your video and path of trouble shooting. Been down the road with this model too, and found leaks forming in the tube header. They normally follow the sequence of fix one leak ,then find more . Your correct in the manufacturer only giving warranty on the condenser coil . Keep up the good work and stay safe . Thanks again
I would agree, check the filters and the coil before wasting time with sensors. It takes 10 seconds so if it wasn't the problem, you have a better idea of what to look for.
After doing this for as many years as I have you learn to leave things as is to asses the system to see what it is actually doing rather than showing up and changing things. After assessment, then you can remove dirty filters to see a before and after operation. I've seen way to many green techs jump to conclusions see this sort of filter, replace it and run. Then generate a callback because of assumptions. As the video clearly showed the filter was dirty but had nothing to do with the issue the customer was experiencing.
I guess its all in how youre trained. I was trained, when rolling in on a no cooling call, to check delta t, filter and clean coil regardless, then evaluate, plus less running in n out. Time savers is all
If this wasn't under warranty, and it was your own home unit, would you try to resolder that joint that was leaking, rather than replace the whole coil?
@@HVACinSC How would you do the repair in that case? Would you use soldering option or use some other binding agent? Could the repair be done while the system is under pressure or you would need to discharge the system first? Thanks for taking your time to make and post this video.
If you have the equipment to decant vac and pressure test the systems it's not a big job to fix the leaking coil but be advised you cannot repair a leak on a system that has pressure in it
Again... out of warranty this repair would be an option. Under warranty that would not be covered therefore in order to repair this I would have had to charge the customer rich would be shitty business practice on a system that has a parts and labor warranty.
I had that same leak detector for two years. It really sucks at picking up HFC leaks. Great for R22, but horrible at 404, 410 and 134. The inficon rechargeable version of the one you have is way better.
Never had any issues with this model but I rarely use electronic leak detectors these days. All electronic leak detectors stuck outside when its windy. 😁
HVAC in SC have you ever been to any refrig factory? The flame they use would blow your mind,,and they are STNGEY. With the brazing rods., it’s a wonder they are not more leaks.
Great video! Since there are so many thermistor types (and corresponding charts), what type was used on this unit and where did you find the chart for it?
Good video man my company installs heil I hate the way there designed the heater kit set up the way they are is horrible.. anyway you could send me the ohms chart?
Excellent 👍 , hopefully it will be a little easy to swap out one coil rather than the two ! Seems like a lot of extra work for the HVAC technician and a waste of money for the company to do the warranty work though ? Right ?
I hate everything about those d@mn package units. The way the heater compartments are set up with the line voltage & fuses on the back of the stupid door makes it almost impossible to troubleshoot with the power on ⚡⚡⚡ And the Warren heater kits 🙄🙄🙄 OMG! 💩💩💩
Lots of tech hate smart thermostat because they have less tolerance to bad system (mosfet instead of relay). So when the tech do a shit job, the thermostat usually will reflect that and not just keep going as if everything was fine.
I did.... and there was none. There is also no lockout code if the defrost thermistors are off or if system is low. Since I already knew this information I use my troubleshooting to determine the issue. 👍
Since this is by no means my wheelhouse I mean this only as an outsider's suggestion seeing the water dripping issue. You mentioned it would be nice to have a trough there and I suspect you have some metal tape in your truck that you could create a temporary trough to direct that water away from you... just a thought, maybe I'm missing something and that idea won't work.
Metal tape doesn't stick to wet surfaces, so you would have to dry the entire unit out for that to be a viable temporary option. A dry rag works fine for a quick fix.
How long do you usually get to diagnose then repair a unit such as this? You never seem In a rush in your videos. I rarely ever am given ample time on a call such as this. How many calls/hours do you run on a usual summer day?
My videos are usually edited in 1 or 2 minute segments or less throughout a call/repair. No need to rush in a short clip. This repair from the time I drove up until I left the house was about 4 hours. If I didnt video it would have took about 10 minutes less. 😀 Standard diagnosis charge covers up to 1 hour. Typically it takes less than 30 minutes to evaluate and diagnose most residential calls. After 20 years of service work and 8 years of making videos, I'm pretty efficient. Some days I may run 3-4 calls, others 8-10. Depends on the call, the service area, the issue, ect. I learned long ago there is no need to run around like a chicken with its head cut off. Be efficient, be effective, and do it right the first time.
@@HVACinSC gotcha. I did a reversing valve today, took about 3 hours. I have found the faster I try and go the longer it usually takes either from mistakes or wasted effort on something if I had taken more time I would have thought through better.
@@travisb9130 Yep. Coils, compressors, rev valves, are all typically quoted at 4 hours for us. That's the national average that manufactures estimate. I've done some in 2 hours and other in 6. lol! Every job is different. Thanks for watching!
I don't understand, the second sensor referenced to 25 degrees, and you said it's about 40? Could somebody explain this chart for me please, I usually don't come across units like this
The 40's I was referencing was 43,000 - 44,000 ohms which is the resistance I measured on the thermistor. 25 degrees is what that resistance equates to on the chart I was showing on my phone for this particular thermistor.
Does anyone know why is my heat pump freezes up when the temperature are below 34. It works find above otherwise. I call a tech and he added refrigerant assuming that was the problem. It still the same its cover in ice.
Would you want a coil that's still under warranty patched? It easily could be fixed but if it was my house and under parts /labor warranty I would want it replaced so that what was done here. Thanks for watching
Could I? Yes. Would I would depend on what the customer decided but I would definitely give the customer the option to repair if it was out of warranty.
I did video some of the repair when I went back. It should be posted in a few days. Be sure to subscribe and click the Bell icon to be notified when the new video is released. Thanks for watching!
I would have just brazed it if it wasn't warranty. Under parts and labor warranty however there is no reason to perform a repair like that with the potential for more leaks down the road. Remove and replace. Simple.
@johnnyboy7881 It's a type of solder that is basically as strong as braze with a lower melting point that typically Sil-Fos brazing rods. Biggest benefit is no need to purge with nitrogen because don't get the pipe hot enough to produce carbon build-up if done correctly.
No. they are actually complete and opposites. There is a long and short side. The header and piston body one the one I changed is on the shorts side of the coil while the other is on the long side.
They could mount that board a little lower by attaching it to the underside of the base so it squishes down in the mud and runs good and wet all the time. Indeed, what the hell were they thinking!
Trane has plenty of design issues as well, no different than any other brand out there. Their HP defrost condensation run off does the exact same thing. Run right into the electrical and blower compartments. I like these Carrier units with the exception of this run off. If that was fixed it would be a pleasure to work on. Thanks for watching!
HVAC in SC Btw, as today, so now subs, Regarding brands ‘COMPETITION’ has dragged everybody downer is crap, and better crap and really good costs money.
That's a repairable leak...even tho is under warranty...but of course, that's a lot more money in replace then fix. Considering that is the infinity system, factory should have put expansion valves instead of those piston....
Carrier doesn't have OD TXVs on most models aside from their inverter systems. Of course this type of leak is easy to fix. I have several videos doing just that. However, repairing this while under parts and labor warranty does not help the customer. On fact O would have had to charge them regular rates since the manufacturer would not approve that repaor under their warranty. We do right by the homeowner and replace the entire part in these situations. Thanks 👍
@@HVACinSC TXV regulates the right subcooling and she superheat, always the right amount of refrigerant to feed evap coil...orifice doesn't regulates nothing
@@joeschneider67 😆😆😆 I'm fully aware of how a TXV works bud. That doesn't change the fact that this unit uses pistons for the heat mode refrigerant metering... Not sure what point you are attempting to make here. 🤔
Good work Brad that is 1 shit can of a carrier lol I put in a Goodman pac couple weeks ago that is way better built than that lol great catch most would have gave up!
@@flybyairplane3528- Yeah the tan ones were terrible. When they changed color to that gray or whatever they got a lot better. They had cheap heat exchangers for awhile though but now everything is pretty decent. The price keeps going up though and I like the Payne equipment better for the money. Especially the 14 seer and above condensers.
@@flybyairplane3528 lot of that Janajunk still around from 30 plus years ago changed a cap on 1 few days ago,Imo Goodman, way better than York, Nordin i like Goodman aluminum evaporators in comparison to ruud or reem coils I do love ruud,reem condensers they r nice.
Because it's under warranty.... If it was your warranty I'm sure you would want the coil changed instead of fixing it. If one leak developed, I'm sure more were coming. 👍
Because it's under warranty silly. If he sealed it up and went on then 2 or 6 months later another leak popped up what then? POint is if one spot is bad chances are it's a shit coil and why not get a new one?
HVAC in SC some brands come apart,,but I do always used pleated ones,,but many customers like the CHEAP BLUE filters, that NEVER GET DIRTY then I ask where do you think the DIRT GOES, THAT YOUR FILTER DOES NOT CATCH?
@@dtec30 No manufacturer is going to replace the entire unit first a leaking coil under warranty. Just doesn't work that way. That's why the systems have parts and labor warranty.
Good job, I like the procedure you went through - best way to keep from getting a callback from a multiple offender or thinking you got it gassed-up, good to go, only to find out you got a bad sensor or board.
...you were wayyy too diplomatic about the level of thought put into the design, lol
Thanks Mike!!
@@HVACinSC The Day & Night variable speed Air Handlers have the boards mounted low down on the air handler like that too - gonna be fried first time the condensate drain backs up or the coil freezes.
mike_HVAC , I seems that,’designers’ do NOT Speak to th test guys in the factory, all se units have the boards in the MOST CRAPPY areas, DRAIN BLOCKAG, that does NOT HAPPN N REAL WORLD.
Wanna bet? there has go be better way.
People that just “gas it up and go” need to get out of this field.
@@HVACinSC ‘
Good video on the leak test, defrost, and thermistors, and all aspects of an iceberg Carrier.
Thanks Ray ray!!
Bubbles got troubles. Always finds it even when it's cold. Good job,Brad
Please have more of this type of videos! Thanks
Good call. Not sure I would have replaced the whole coil but everyone does it the way they see fit. I usually show the customer where that leak was and the repair and if another leak springs in a similar way then replace it. I also repair many leaks on the cap tubes on those things.
I've repaired hundreds of simple leaks like this out of warranty. It's stupid simple.
However when a part like this is under parts and labor warranty you arent doing the customer any justice by fixing the leaking coil. The likelyhood of more leaks is high and I promise you if it is out if warranty when the next leak springs and you didn't replace that coil when you found the original leak, you can kiss that customer goodbye. We choose to do what's best for our clients and replacing this leaking coil under parts and labor warranty is the best option.
@@HVACinSC I'm all about customer service. In fact I'm a 1 man show in business now for 25 years. My whole business is based on the customer service. In all my years of fixing that type leak I havent had a call back yet and I base that only on customers that have been mine for years and years and not those that call once and are never heard from again. Dont get me wrong I'm not cracking on you for doing it this way in fact its outstanding that you do it. I'm simply saying that in my experience I've found it unnecessary and thus far it's worked out. If one of my customers were in year 9 of an install developed that leak and a similar leak developed 3 years later I'd foot the bill on a new coil for them. Hasnt happened yet knock on wood. We all have our own methods but bottom line is if the customer is satisfied it's all good.
Good find.. That big blue i found thinning down it bubbles up more. I has a gas line that wouldn't hold an air test and i was going crazy looking spraying and nothing. I was telling my story to some friends one guy heard worked for the gas company and he told me thin it out, he said sometimes the mix is too strong and won't bubble up, but thin like kids bubbles it will grow and II'll find it faster.. He was right for me .i had mor success thinning it out
Ive never had to thin it out in the 10 plus years I've been using the product. I just apply it and wait 5 minutes. If there's a leak it will show 100% of the time. Even the tiniest of leaks will show up as a white foam (micro bubbles). The key is to have the patience to wait the 5 minutes. Best bubble leak detector on the market hands down. I feel that thinning the product will produce larger bubbles faster but will reduce the size of leaks the product is capable of finding.
Thanks for watching.
HVAC in SC I Agree, Big Blue,
I use sunlight for small leaks and baby blue for big ones. Sunlight bubbles like crazy. But you need to whip it off after as it will discolour your copper and metal.
I literally did the exact same thing today with a Lennox. Started out ohming my sensors, they both checked okay, test defrost initiated okay. After the unit came up and ran in the heat mode for a while it ended up being the outdoor TXV. It had dropped my pressure down and put the board in a low pressure lockout. Homeowner would have never had a clue it was happening but it was 77° yesterday (broke a record high) and they turned on the AC and it never cooled the house down. That's when they went out back and noticed the ODU wasn't running. It's surprising that Infinity didn't trip out on some kind of fault. I've always hated that style of package unit and what a terrible idea putting those control boards inside of the blower compartment. 😒
Dang 77 degrees what part of the country do you live in? I'm going to guess in South Florida. I'm in Arizona and we had snow last week (Northern AZ of course at a higher elevation). I also agree about the bad design on the location of that board.
Tennessee 👍
Placing a pcb in a spot next to where water drips as well as next to the compressor compartment where radical hot and cold cycles will effect said pcb can only be explained by "planned obsolescence". dumb AF to techs and consumers but brilliant to investors and beneficiary stock holders. Why every single unit out there be it a window AC or a roof top pool dehumidification system, doesn't have a refrigerant charge sensor of litterally any kind only strengthens my point. Some do and some don't. some have lil windows to look at the charge/oil levels some don't. they ALL should have something other then a symptom.
Shannon Knight HVAC ont recall bd,,but it was a furnace, in cooling season, all ICED UP but the control board was below the ‘A’ COIL, so needed to get it defrosted, but 1 hell o a time keeping that board dry , even the floor was wet, sure was low,did find leak, on roof ( R22), must have been 25 years ago, as been retired 15 y, now 77 year old , but I still go ot told s with problems
Si Air conditioning 🙄
Nice job finding that leak!
Carrier turned to junk in 2010. Great service!
I like Carrier. Just dont like how they divert the defrost condensate on these units.
I personally think there is no brand currently on the market that is head and shoulders above the others. They are all flawed.
HVAC in SC have you ever been in a house with that CHINESE DRYWALL?, While in a supplyhouse in FLORIDA, a guy approached me, as I had on an old RSES shirt,
my problem
the repairman didn't repair it and cost me over $ 500. 00 dollar he just looks over everything just wastes time & changes my gas and it does not need it but this video did help me thank you
Great job, great catch sometimes those small leaks are hard to catch.
Thanks William!
You should check superheat on the outdoor TXV after you replace the coil. Some older fixed superheat txv’s were notorious for underfeeding.
Most Carrier systems (including this one) do not use TXVs for the outdoor section. They use pistons.
Good to know, thank you.
He added refrigerant and the low side pressure came up if there was a partial restriction in the accurator ( piston valve) it would have done nothing to the system pressures. Just a tip if you are checking the charge on a package unit that does have a TXV subcooling is the fella you want to be looking at other wise how would you know if the valve is shagged or the units short?
Great video Brad. You really showcased your troubleshooting techniques. Enjoyed it Cheers!!!
Thanks Paul!!
This is more of a social presentation -- "shop talk" - than an instructional one. It's still helpful and useful, but it assumes a lot of experience on the part of the viewer. Reading all the comments helps fill in some of the gaps.
Its not meant to be an instructional video. There are schools for that. I'm not an instructor or a teacher.. just a tech showing what I do day to day. 👍
@@HVACinSC
Understood - keep them coming as they are a help to the student as well.
Thanks!
Hey SC..Damian here from AZ...I am graduating soon from hvac school here in phx. Would you ever try to repair the coil? In this case, it seems like you might have a decent chance of success, as opposed to a leak in the middle of the coil, where fins are involved. Thank you for your advice!
Shocker! Carrier equipment with a bad design and factory leaks haha. Good job finding the issue
Theres no brand on the market that doesn't suffer from poor design and premature failures. Just the nature of of industry today. Thanks for watching!
I pulled a Carrier R-22 unit that was being replaced at the insistence of the homeowner about 5 years ago... 1999 manufacture, put the odu and a-coil right in my place and it's been going strong since. They don't make em like that anymore. Simple and built like a tank. I think that was an 11 or 12 seer unit. These compressors and condensers just have to run at a ridiculously high pressure these days.
At least that’s not one of the carriers with one panel that covers the compressor, blower and electrical, those suck. Awesome job btw
Ahhh... the good ole' 1-door-piece-O-craps! Those gas pak's were the worst. I'd like to take a sledgehammer to the d@mn burner compartments 🔨
I hated those Carrier gas packs as well having to flip the panel on end to cover the blower compartment while testing the system. Fortunately I don't see much of those anymore because the area I work in (Verde Valley, AZ) has mostly Lennox, Day & Night and Trane systems. Every once in a blue moon one might see a Carrier system out here. I did the maintenance at the Camp Verde Public Library last week and they've got Carrier Infinity split systems there.
@@azoutdoors2344 Goodman gas packs are junk too lol
Great video Brad !
Big blue to the rescue 👍👍
9:00 indoor coil dirty or dirty filter in heat would cause a high pressure situation, BUT, it can also cause the charge to look artificially higher than it is, also, that's an easily fixable leak, rather than the headache of replacing the whole coil. And, I'm still waiting to see a bubble from that spot you found, bubble solution will gather with bubbles at the bottom of fittings, I always verify that I see bubbling. Anyway, nice video and troubleshooting!
Did you watch 9:01 where I showed the coil and mentioned the filter? 😆
HVAC in SC of course, proved my point! 😃
Your point? 🤔 You mean the one I made in the video?🙄 Seems legit.
And since you edited your original comment, the coil was under parts and labor warranty. Repairing it would cost the customer $$ where replacement would not. Im not into cheating my customers. As far as you seeing the leak or not, that is irrelevant. That was were the leak was and it has since been replaced and working great but thank for the entertaining video analysis. 👌
That is exactly what I do. Test the sensor first.
Also, if I suspect a refrigerant leak on a call I check the service ports for leaks (electronic) before I put the gauges on. Hope that helps someone.
Good video.
Thanks for watching!
Very nice video. Very helpful.what are the amps?
The amps of what exactly. The motors?
Since it's under parts and labor warranty , I would replace both coils on this unit .
This model is prone to coil leaks in each of the coils .
Manufacturer will only approve the side that's leaking. It's a special order part not generally stocked.
In my experience these models have very few condenser coil leaks. I've only seen about 6 in 15 years plus.
@@HVACinSC
I enjoyed your video and path of trouble shooting.
Been down the road with this model too, and found leaks forming in the tube header.
They normally follow the sequence of fix one leak ,then find more .
Your correct in the manufacturer only giving warranty on the condenser coil .
Keep up the good work and stay safe .
Thanks again
Great video 👍👍. Would like to see more like this one.
I can't count how many times I've hit little leaks like that with the Torches. Of course not while it's under warranty
Same here. Simple fix out of warranty. 👍
Great video where can I find the chart for the ohms resistance
Orlando Perez Google 10 K Ohm thermister chart. FYI a thermister nominal value is based on a temperature of 77 degrees.
Thanks I found it already very helpful 👍
I just find most charts in the back of the systems service manual.
Check filters first regardless of anything else.
Nope. I want to see what the system is doing before I start assuming and changing things. 👍
I would agree, check the filters and the coil before wasting time with sensors. It takes 10 seconds so if it wasn't the problem, you have a better idea of what to look for.
After doing this for as many years as I have you learn to leave things as is to asses the system to see what it is actually doing rather than showing up and changing things. After assessment, then you can remove dirty filters to see a before and after operation. I've seen way to many green techs jump to conclusions see this sort of filter, replace it and run. Then generate a callback because of assumptions.
As the video clearly showed the filter was dirty but had nothing to do with the issue the customer was experiencing.
I guess its all in how youre trained. I was trained, when rolling in on a no cooling call, to check delta t, filter and clean coil regardless, then evaluate, plus less running in n out. Time savers is all
Besides.....that filter still needed changed out anyways
Typical Carrier condenser coil leaks ... ive fixed MANY.. I Like the new Infecon Stratus works Really great
Terrific work, sir.
Can you share chart for OHM sensor out ? Thank you and keep it up with educational video.
Thanks!! I'll try to find a link and post it but I usually just get the service manual of the system and these charts are in the back.
Great video man! Very methodical!
Great job young man! Nice video.
Thanks for watching!
Hi, and thank you for this video, can you please tell me where to get one those 10k resistance chart?
They are in the back of most install manuals of the equipment.
Good job brotha! Excellent work! Great diagnostic skills n informational, definitly took some notes down
Where do you get the chart with the temperatures in relation to resistance value?
From the respective manufacturer of the particular thermistor you’re working on.
That filter being that destroyed is a surefire sign it is undersized ducts causing most the problem.
Ductwork wasn't undersized at all. The filter was just dirty with fine particulate. Nothing more.
10 year Parts and Labor? Wow thats a good warranty.
If this wasn't under warranty, and it was your own home unit, would you try to resolder that joint that was leaking, rather than replace the whole coil?
Yes. Residential or commercial it's a simple fix but this being under parts and labor warranty, the best option is replacement. Thanks for watching!
@@HVACinSC How would you do the repair in that case? Would you use soldering option or use some other binding agent? Could the repair be done while the system is under pressure or you would need to discharge the system first?
Thanks for taking your time to make and post this video.
If you have the equipment to decant vac and pressure test the systems it's not a big job to fix the leaking coil but be advised you cannot repair a leak on a system that has pressure in it
Again... out of warranty this repair would be an option. Under warranty that would not be covered therefore in order to repair this I would have had to charge the customer rich would be shitty business practice on a system that has a parts and labor warranty.
Well, speaking for myself I wasn't questioning your action. I just wanted to know what could have been done for the units that are out of warranty.
Very thorough troubleshooting
Thanks!
I had that same leak detector for two years. It really sucks at picking up HFC leaks. Great for R22, but horrible at 404, 410 and 134. The inficon rechargeable version of the one you have is way better.
Never had any issues with this model but I rarely use electronic leak detectors these days.
All electronic leak detectors stuck outside when its windy. 😁
Good finding. Thank you very much for your teaching, very instructive
Really educational video. Very well explained. Thank you
Good catch Brad. Didn't consider to braze?
Not while under parts and labor warranty. That in my mind would be a disservice to my customer. Change it out and not worry about it anymore.
HVAC in SC have you ever been to any refrig factory? The flame they use would blow your mind,,and they are STNGEY. With the brazing rods., it’s a wonder they are not more leaks.
Great video! Since there are so many thermistor types (and corresponding charts), what type was used on this unit and where did you find the chart for it?
Not sure the specific 10k ohm type. I just use the charts provided in the back of almost every systems service manual.
Good video man my company installs heil I hate the way there designed the heater kit set up the way they are is horrible.. anyway you could send me the ohms chart?
Well done Brad, thanks for sharing
Thanks RG!
Good fine Brad and congrats on always doin' a good job for your customers ...
Thanks Eddy!
Excellent 👍 , hopefully it will be a little easy to swap out one coil rather than the two ! Seems like a lot of extra work for the HVAC technician and a waste of money for the company to do the warranty work though ? Right ?
Thanks Dan! We get paid well being a Factory Authorized Carrier dealer. Home warranty stuff is where companies get beat up. We dont do those.
How were you able to determine its a 10 K ohm resistor?
Because I'm a Carrier dealer.
It will usually tell you in the service manuals and also provide a chart to use.
He has specialized training from carrier.
I specialize in all brands. 💪💪
Same question as YJ Love Where do you get the chart with the temperatures in relation to resistance value?
You can find them in any equipment Troubleshooting or Service manuals
what was the floating pink wire connected to ?
That is a terrible design,you sure got that right.😁
I hate everything about those d@mn package units. The way the heater compartments are set up with the line voltage & fuses on the back of the stupid door makes it almost impossible to troubleshoot with the power on ⚡⚡⚡ And the Warren heater kits 🙄🙄🙄 OMG! 💩💩💩
What else is new when referring to Carrier..
@@markg1773 and every other brand on the market... 😏😏
I had the same issue once and the technician said get rid of the Nest thermostat and problem solved.
No thermostat will cause a refrigerant leak. Find a new Technician. 😆
Lots of tech hate smart thermostat because they have less tolerance to bad system (mosfet instead of relay). So when the tech do a shit job, the thermostat usually will reflect that and not just keep going as if everything was fine.
What ohm chart are you referring to?
Just a 10k ohm temperature resistance chart. Got mine from on install manual.
Nice job and video
Why didn't you check the infinity control for a code or check the board for a code, just to see what the control said the issue was?
I did.... and there was none. There is also no lockout code if the defrost thermistors are off or if system is low. Since I already knew this information I use my troubleshooting to determine the issue. 👍
@@HVACinSC right on. I'm always surprised when infinity or evolution equipment doesn't use the communicating control. Good video!
Since this is by no means my wheelhouse I mean this only as an outsider's suggestion seeing the water dripping issue. You mentioned it would be nice to have a trough there and I suspect you have some metal tape in your truck that you could create a temporary trough to direct that water away from you... just a thought, maybe I'm missing something and that idea won't work.
Metal tape doesn't stick to wet surfaces, so you would have to dry the entire unit out for that to be a viable temporary option. A dry rag works fine for a quick fix.
Good fiend on that ice making machine Brad
Thanks Andrey!
Where did you find those needle leads to backprobe the harness?
Click the link in the description and you will find them in my Amazon store front.
How long do you usually get to diagnose then repair a unit such as this? You never seem In a rush in your videos. I rarely ever am given ample time on a call such as this.
How many calls/hours do you run on a usual summer day?
My videos are usually edited in 1 or 2 minute segments or less throughout a call/repair. No need to rush in a short clip.
This repair from the time I drove up until I left the house was about 4 hours. If I didnt video it would have took about 10 minutes less. 😀
Standard diagnosis charge covers up to 1 hour. Typically it takes less than 30 minutes to evaluate and diagnose most residential calls.
After 20 years of service work and 8 years of making videos, I'm pretty efficient.
Some days I may run 3-4 calls, others 8-10. Depends on the call, the service area, the issue, ect.
I learned long ago there is no need to run around like a chicken with its head cut off. Be efficient, be effective, and do it right the first time.
@@HVACinSC gotcha. I did a reversing valve today, took about 3 hours. I have found the faster I try and go the longer it usually takes either from mistakes or wasted effort on something if I had taken more time I would have thought through better.
@@travisb9130 Yep. Coils, compressors, rev valves, are all typically quoted at 4 hours for us. That's the national average that manufactures estimate. I've done some in 2 hours and other in 6. lol! Every job is different.
Thanks for watching!
I don't understand, the second sensor referenced to 25 degrees, and you said it's about 40? Could somebody explain this chart for me please, I usually don't come across units like this
The 40's I was referencing was 43,000 - 44,000 ohms which is the resistance I measured on the thermistor. 25 degrees is what that resistance equates to on the chart I was showing on my phone for this particular thermistor.
What app is that for the chart?
It wasn't an app. It was just a picture of the chart from back of the service manual.
Hey good diagnosing buddy!
How’d you clean the ice off?
Water or run it in cooling
Does anyone know why is my heat pump freezes up when the temperature are below 34. It works find above otherwise. I call a tech and he added refrigerant assuming that was the problem. It still the same its cover in ice.
What apps you use for sensors pt chart sir?
I just use the charts that come in the service manuals for the unit I'm working on.
Great video. Do you work for yourself?
Nope. I'm just a tech
I had a unit just the other day with a high head on heat but ok on cool, found Shit in the piston, did you check it in cool
See part 2
Dang good job on the diagnosis and leak check!
Can you not patch the leak instead?
Would you want a coil that's still under warranty patched? It easily could be fixed but if it was my house and under parts /labor warranty I would want it replaced so that what was done here.
Thanks for watching
Good job bro...
Thanks!!
if the condenser coil didnt have a warranty would you have brazed the leak?
Could I? Yes. Would I would depend on what the customer decided but I would definitely give the customer the option to repair if it was out of warranty.
Super Tech 👍🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾learned something today good video
I prefer Awesome Tech or Badass tech... 😆😆😆
Thanks for watching Jason!
HVAC in SC 👌🏾
Nice video good job sir
Thanks!
I want to watch the change out
I'm in the local college learning this trade/skill and it was just getting good.
I did video some of the repair when I went back. It should be posted in a few days. Be sure to subscribe and click the Bell icon to be notified when the new video is released.
Thanks for watching!
very methodical, ilike it!!!!
My least favorite design for a packaged unit
I would have just SB8 the fitting, would have been easier and faster.. That litle joint is perfect for SB8..
I would have just brazed it if it wasn't warranty. Under parts and labor warranty however there is no reason to perform a repair like that with the potential for more leaks down the road. Remove and replace. Simple.
I gree
What is SB8
@@johnnyboy7881 STAY BRITE 8
@johnnyboy7881 It's a type of solder that is basically as strong as braze with a lower melting point that typically Sil-Fos brazing rods. Biggest benefit is no need to purge with nitrogen because don't get the pipe hot enough to produce carbon build-up if done correctly.
13:21 is that a bubble on the small line?
Just a drip of the Big Blu. No leak. See part 2!
l work in refrigeration and air conditioning do you have wok...?
Thanks for watching
@@HVACinSC LOL!!!
Thanks
Nice Video!! I think both coils are the same and can be flipped?!
No. they are actually complete and opposites. There is a long and short side. The header and piston body one the one I changed is on the shorts side of the coil while the other is on the long side.
They could mount that board a little lower by attaching it to the underside of the base so it squishes down in the mud and runs good and wet all the time. Indeed, what the hell were they thinking!
I went with Trane products bc Carrier has disappointed more than once due to bad product design.
Trane has plenty of design issues as well, no different than any other brand out there. Their HP defrost condensation run off does the exact same thing. Run right into the electrical and blower compartments.
I like these Carrier units with the exception of this run off. If that was fixed it would be a pleasure to work on.
Thanks for watching!
HVAC in SC Btw, as today, so now subs, Regarding brands ‘COMPETITION’ has dragged everybody downer is crap, and better crap and really good costs money.
That's a repairable leak...even tho is under warranty...but of course, that's a lot more money in replace then fix.
Considering that is the infinity system, factory should have put expansion valves instead of those piston....
Carrier doesn't have OD TXVs on most models aside from their inverter systems.
Of course this type of leak is easy to fix. I have several videos doing just that.
However, repairing this while under parts and labor warranty does not help the customer. On fact O would have had to charge them regular rates since the manufacturer would not approve that repaor under their warranty.
We do right by the homeowner and replace the entire part in these situations.
Thanks 👍
@@HVACinSC TXV regulates the right subcooling and she superheat, always the right amount of refrigerant to feed evap coil...orifice doesn't regulates nothing
@@joeschneider67 😆😆😆 I'm fully aware of how a TXV works bud. That doesn't change the fact that this unit uses pistons for the heat mode refrigerant metering...
Not sure what point you are attempting to make here. 🤔
Awesome
Great Video...!!!
Thanks for watching!
thanks for the video, bro
Enjoyed
Exelent video thanks!!
Good work Brad that is 1 shit can of a carrier lol I put in a Goodman pac couple weeks ago that is way better built than that lol great catch most would have gave up!
Thanks buddy!!
Goodman stepped up their quality since Daikin bought them. I like the Goodman/Daikin package units better and prefer the Carrier/Payne/Bryant splits.
Tommy Kada actually IT WAS JANITROL, & in the trade it was known as JANAJUNK, but they bettered themselves, then put a great warranty,
@@flybyairplane3528- Yeah the tan ones were terrible. When they changed color to that gray or whatever they got a lot better. They had cheap heat exchangers for awhile though but now everything is pretty decent. The price keeps going up though and I like the Payne equipment better for the money. Especially the 14 seer and above condensers.
@@flybyairplane3528 lot of that Janajunk still around from 30 plus years ago changed a cap on 1 few days ago,Imo Goodman, way better than York, Nordin i like Goodman aluminum evaporators in comparison to ruud or reem coils I do love ruud,reem condensers they r nice.
Why not just braze the joint pressure test and be done?
Because it's under warranty.... If it was your warranty I'm sure you would want the coil changed instead of fixing it. If one leak developed, I'm sure more were coming. 👍
Because it's under warranty silly. If he sealed it up and went on then 2 or 6 months later another leak popped up what then? POint is if one spot is bad chances are it's a shit coil and why not get a new one?
Good sir I am your student thanks
👍
You still have 6 calls left and it's 2:15; you better get your water hose out!
Really dont like pleated filters.
I hate 1" pleated filters.
HVAC in SC some brands come apart,,but I do always used pleated ones,,but many customers like the CHEAP BLUE filters, that NEVER GET DIRTY then I ask where do you think the DIRT GOES, THAT YOUR FILTER DOES NOT CATCH?
I wish I could find a technician that knew wtf they are doing like you. 🙄
given that a coil is 80 % of the unit would it be better to replace the whole unit
No
@@HVACinSC i'm guessing cost/warranty?
@@dtec30 No manufacturer is going to replace the entire unit first a leaking coil under warranty. Just doesn't work that way. That's why the systems have parts and labor warranty.
@@HVACinSC ok gotcha
Also the condenser coil on a heatpump package unit is FAR less than 80% of the unit. Maybe 20% at best.
Not enough return air..
No.... watch the video..
When I find it frozen I shut it down for 30 minutes and then proceed to check the system.
Why??
Carrier infinity made to fuck it all up
Yes this design is trash 😂
Good Job🙏🏾
Hello how are you