Good advice. We have 1/2 hp submersible pump with a QC control box. I keep a spare control box as well as a replacement start capacitor on hand. The nice thing about QC control boxes is they have all the components on the cover and the cover naps on making troubleshooting/repair pretty easy. Gets you up an running quickly then do detailed fault finding at your leisure.
Good video brother. I have an irrigation well that I inherited with the home I bought. It’s not working and since I have no pressure switch I’ll bet it’s the control box. Mine is so old I can’t read how many HP my pump is. Can you tell by looking at it? It’s also a FE but much larger than yours.
Hey, just wondering why didn’t you run your line from the breaker box to the pressure switch first and then to the control box? I thought the pressure switch needed power first and then the control box from the switch. Thanks
L 1 should be black. White is neutral. Since your pump is 230v red black and green should come from the service panel. Since you have a white wire use black electrical and mark that white wire. L1 is black. L2 is red. Mark L2 with red tape.
The wires on l1 and l2 are live either wire can be on either spot as long as it’s a live wire the only wires positions that matter are the 3 going to the pump I work for harp well and pump in Wichita ks this is something I do for a living
I wish you would show how to test the wires (black, yellow, red ) to see if the problem is down the hole or in the box. What should the ohms values or voltage be? My reset button trips soon after I reset it.
Was there ever water inside the control box when you removed the lid? Today, my well system stopped working, no water. Replaced the switch because it had carbon corrosion and looked like it was due. Not getting any spark when I move the contacts. So, thought it was might be the control box. There is a puddle of water underneath it and water accumulated inside the box. Breakers off, I tried to hit the reset buttons, but they went in and didn't come back out, I'm sure due to the water corroding the box and possibly the components. Would it be worth it to remove the box, clean it , check the capacitors and free up the reset buttons...or just get a new box? Your thoughts?
Good video. Just wanted to point out that it appears your capacitor blew from your lightning strike. That's what all that black flakey substance is in the corner and throughout the control box. A new capacitor is about $13.00.
Hey guys! I have a 1,5 HP, 230 volts ,10 AMP, RPM 3450 well pump. 100 feet away from the control box. Can anyone help me out what's the necessary wire gauge for this condition? My electric usage 18-22 kW/day without well pump. If I'm running the pump as well goes up to 80-90 kW. Isn't little bit too much usage from a 1,5 HP pump? I'm not an electrician but looks like the wires to the pump 14 or 12 gauge. Just wondering if it could cause the extra power usage? Thanks for any help
That's pretty cool but i cannot figure out on my setup how i could change from dial type controler to a newer digital one. I can't undertsand how to wire new one. Can you show more oictures with the breaker to controler to relay box wiring ? Please !
Good video, thank you. My pump controller seems to still be getting power (as the "Failure" light is illuminated), so my problem is not the control box, right? The manual for the pump controller says that the water pressure causes this; but if I bypass the controller, there is 40-50 psi, so I'm at a loss...anyway, enjoyed the video. Thanks again.
LOL I service water well and I tell you the real way guy!!!! First thing is to make sure what box you have a Franklin or center pro makes difference . If the rest work when you pushed it then you probably going to lean to the Start capacitor-cuz it the one that start the pump/ size 108-120) for 2 and 3 hp box is still the same size capacitor but the size is 215-230 big deal read that you have the Black one the silver one is a Run capacitor ps if you pump is pulling high amp a lot of the time if you change run the silver(10 is the size they go up to 45 for 5 hp ) one the amp will go back to where they should be and your pump will last longer before you damage motor /The box one is called a relay lol For the power wire make sure you have 240 total both legs color doesn’t mater their as long as they both have 110 and a ground Ps on the two bottom on the if the left one pop you can pump another day -But if the right one goes you probably have motor problems (thrust bearing/spun shaft etc) one last thing the pressure tank and switch work together you have to have the right amount of air in tank so the switch work properly (if y’all change pressure switch MAKE sure you clean the nipple under it with screw driver lol😂😂 hope that help a couple people do it right ps There are two kinds of 1hp control box the first one with overload arrrrrrre the small on called quick disconnect or (QD) Be careful on what advice you take try not to burn yours pumps up lol lol jk pease
What did we learn from this? The title begins with "Troubleshooting"! No talk about voltages, like where you should find 120V, and where you'd find 240V. "Anybody can do it"? Well, most can follow a diagram but even they can be confusing. You need a minimum set of skills and know-how to assure solid connections, or you'll need an 'actual' troubleshooting video!
Wells are often wired with 12/2 (black, white, bare) wire or stranded wire in conduit (commonly black, white, green). In both cases L1 vs L2 is completely irrelevant for functioning of the well. There is no neutral wire for these pumps. Most electricians will follow best practices (and often the applicable code) and identify the white wire with black tape or permanent marking ink/paint because it isn't neutral (which is generally white) I'm sure there is a locale or situation that doesn't abide. Regardless, the pixies don't care. They are oscillating back and forth between L1&L2 and could care less how they are labeled.
Oh, and it could be that there are some locales that require 12/3 wire where a neutral is carried throughout the circuit. In this case there would be a black, red, white, and green/bare wire. White would be neutral, black and red connected to L1&L2, and no it won't make a difference which you put where. Most of us are anal enough to stay consistent
But you had a 11/2hp and you put a 1hp back on it! Why? Some of you guys need to call a professional! The 1hp has no over loads. So no motor protection! That’s why you pay a lot of money for a service call!
You went from a good control box to a piece of junk by design control box. That looks like your pinching pennies and you will probably realize your mistake later down the road. They are a pain in the butt trouble shooting.Luckily you are not in a confined space like I am with mine. Good luck with the two piece control box.They do suck. Thank You for the vid.
It looked as if he had two different control boxes. The first seems to have two (start & run) capacitors while the second has but one - and the second has no resets switches. This is a poor 'guide' IMHO. Not at all sure why this control box (for instance) is outside as opposed to being inside the house with the pressure tank and such. No wonder lightening hit it!
They are two different models. The one he had originally was the Franklin deluxe box. The one he put back in is the standard. Most rural wells have the control boxes outside. Because wire is expensive.
Thank you Sir for this video. I was able to use the reset button to get my submersible pump working again. You literally saved me hundreds of dollars.
Much appreciated. Hooking mine up now!! Hog Valley Florida 🍻
Thank you. Made it simple to reset it and got it back working
Good advice. We have 1/2 hp submersible pump with a QC control box. I keep a spare control box as well as a replacement start capacitor on hand. The nice thing about QC control boxes is they have all the components on the cover and the cover naps on making troubleshooting/repair pretty easy. Gets you up an running quickly then do detailed fault finding at your leisure.
Always test to be sure power is off. Never just rely on flipping the breaker/s. Breakers can be mislabeled.
I wish I saw your video before I paid $250. Life lessons.
Damn man Thanks! Saved me the service call. I didn't know it had reset buttons. Cool thanks
We just had a new tank put in and it’s blowing the circuit breaker? Is it just a bad tank?
Good video brother. I have an irrigation well that I inherited with the home I bought. It’s not working and since I have no pressure switch I’ll bet it’s the control box. Mine is so old I can’t read how many HP my pump is. Can you tell by looking at it? It’s also a FE but much larger than yours.
Hey, just wondering why didn’t you run your line from the breaker box to the pressure switch first and then to the control box? I thought the pressure switch needed power first and then the control box from the switch. Thanks
Hi . Do I shut off breaker to push the reset buttons?
L 1 should be black. White is neutral. Since your pump is 230v red black and green should come from the service panel. Since you have a white wire use black electrical and mark that white wire. L1 is black. L2 is red. Mark L2 with red tape.
Thank you
Appreciate that, I was confused.
The wires on l1 and l2 are live either wire can be on either spot as long as it’s a live wire the only wires positions that matter are the 3 going to the pump I work for harp well and pump in Wichita ks this is something I do for a living
Should all wires going to the pump ( R Y B ) read hot?
I wish you would show how to test the wires (black, yellow, red ) to see if the problem is down the hole or in the box. What should the ohms values or voltage be? My reset button trips soon after I reset it.
Was there ever water inside the control box when you removed the lid? Today, my well system stopped working, no water. Replaced the switch because it had carbon corrosion and looked like it was due. Not getting any spark when I move the contacts. So, thought it was might be the control box. There is a puddle of water underneath it and water accumulated inside the box. Breakers off, I tried to hit the reset buttons, but they went in and didn't come back out, I'm sure due to the water corroding the box and possibly the components. Would it be worth it to remove the box, clean it , check the capacitors and free up the reset buttons...or just get a new box? Your thoughts?
I would just go ahead and replace the box if your able too.
Does that control box eliminate the need for a pressure switch?
No
Hi. What is the voltage that is going from the relay to the pump?
Thanks, brother.
Worked for me. Thanks
Hello you are what's the temperature for me to come and reset it then replace the box but I noticed when they reset it my phone started working
Good video. Just wanted to point out that it appears your capacitor blew from your lightning strike. That's what all that black flakey substance is in the corner and throughout the control box. A new capacitor is about $13.00.
Did the ceiling fan in the background get " hit by lightning" as well? Bet it wobbles a tad...
Hey guys! I have a 1,5 HP, 230 volts ,10 AMP, RPM 3450 well pump. 100 feet away from the control box. Can anyone help me out what's the necessary wire gauge for this condition? My electric usage 18-22 kW/day without well pump. If I'm running the pump as well goes up to 80-90 kW. Isn't little bit too much usage from a 1,5 HP pump? I'm not an electrician but looks like the wires to the pump 14 or 12 gauge. Just wondering if it could cause the extra power usage? Thanks for any help
That's pretty cool but i cannot figure out on my setup how i could change from dial type controler to a newer digital one. I can't undertsand how to wire new one. Can you show more oictures with the breaker to controler to relay box wiring ? Please !
Good video, thank you. My pump controller seems to still be getting power (as the "Failure" light is illuminated), so my problem is not the control box, right? The manual for the pump controller says that the water pressure causes this; but if I bypass the controller, there is 40-50 psi, so I'm at a loss...anyway, enjoyed the video. Thanks again.
Several years ago I paid $600 for replacing a pressure switch and control box.
Year ago I paid 2 hundred
Ben Dover
Thanks man. Much appreciated !
Wulfy
Hi would you pkease help me ? I have water 💧 and pressure with the breaker off . When I turn on the breaker ,the control box hums
Is it safe to press reset button on control box while power is on?
why does a single phase motor have three leds?
I'm always the 1 times out of ten, dead pump motor (shorted windings/open windings)...
Thank you .very helpful.
Thank you ☺️ so much ur video save us a lot of money
Thank you!
LOL I service water well and I tell you the real way guy!!!! First thing is to make sure what box you have a Franklin or center pro makes difference . If the rest work when you pushed it then you probably going to lean to the Start capacitor-cuz it the one that start the pump/ size 108-120) for 2 and 3 hp box is still the same size capacitor but the size is 215-230 big deal read that you have the Black one the silver one is a Run capacitor ps if you pump is pulling high amp a lot of the time if you change run the silver(10 is the size they go up to 45 for 5 hp ) one the amp will go back to where they should be and your pump will last longer before you damage motor /The box one is called a relay lol For the power wire make sure you have 240 total both legs color doesn’t mater their as long as they both have 110 and a ground Ps on the two bottom on the if the left one pop you can pump another day -But if the right one goes you probably have motor problems (thrust bearing/spun shaft etc) one last thing the pressure tank and switch work together you have to have the right amount of air in tank so the switch work properly (if y’all change pressure switch MAKE sure you clean the nipple under it with screw driver lol😂😂 hope that help a couple people do it right ps There are two kinds of 1hp control box the first one with overload arrrrrrre the small on called quick disconnect or (QD) Be careful on what advice you take try not to burn yours pumps up lol lol jk pease
How do you know if the control box is bad or the pump?
You have to check resistance with an OHM meter to test your pump.
@@justindunsworth6975 Are you menaing to say, No ohms meter means pump burnt out?
What did we learn from this? The title begins with "Troubleshooting"! No talk about voltages, like where you should find 120V, and where you'd find 240V. "Anybody can do it"? Well, most can follow a diagram but even they can be confusing. You need a minimum set of skills and know-how to assure solid connections, or you'll need an 'actual' troubleshooting video!
HATER!
What if you hear a small bang and the box starts smoking
Why is it sometimes the L1 is black and L2 is white, but I've seen another video where it's reversed... does it matter?
Wells are often wired with 12/2 (black, white, bare) wire or stranded wire in conduit (commonly black, white, green). In both cases L1 vs L2 is completely irrelevant for functioning of the well. There is no neutral wire for these pumps. Most electricians will follow best practices (and often the applicable code) and identify the white wire with black tape or permanent marking ink/paint because it isn't neutral (which is generally white) I'm sure there is a locale or situation that doesn't abide.
Regardless, the pixies don't care. They are oscillating back and forth between L1&L2 and could care less how they are labeled.
Oh, and it could be that there are some locales that require 12/3 wire where a neutral is carried throughout the circuit. In this case there would be a black, red, white, and green/bare wire. White would be neutral, black and red connected to L1&L2, and no it won't make a difference which you put where. Most of us are anal enough to stay consistent
But you had a 11/2hp and you put a 1hp back on it! Why? Some of you guys need to call a professional! The 1hp has no over loads. So no motor protection! That’s why you pay a lot of money for a service call!
1hp box will fix it hahahahha
Why would you put on a 1hp control box you just had on a horse n a half
Where did you buy a new control box?
Lowe’s or Home Depot, they both have them.
You went from a good control box to a piece of junk by design control box. That looks like your pinching pennies and you will probably realize your mistake later down the road. They are a pain in the butt trouble shooting.Luckily you are not in a confined space like I am with mine. Good luck with the two piece control box.They do suck. Thank You for the vid.
My breaker keeps kicking, opened my control box and there’s a mouse skeleton in there!
Shane K, yea that could do it.
Pay the money there’s a huge mistake here!
It looked as if he had two different control boxes. The first seems to have two (start & run) capacitors while the second has but one - and the second has no resets switches. This is a poor 'guide' IMHO. Not at all sure why this control box (for instance) is outside as opposed to being inside the house with the pressure tank and such. No wonder lightening hit it!
They are two different models. The one he had originally was the Franklin deluxe box. The one he put back in is the standard. Most rural wells have the control boxes outside. Because wire is expensive.
👀👍
Amateur is guessing which part gone bad. Don’t call it a troubleshooting
Taducelo a español