I have a Craftsman LT1000 w/ Peerless tecumseh mst-206-545c transaxle. My right rear seal must have gone, because it drained out a trail in the yard. All the videos I've seen on changing seals are the plastic ones that are visible on the OUTSIDE. Mine is clearly internal. Is there any way to stop leaking WITHOUT tearing apart/removing the entire transaxle? Any sneaky way of keeping the fluid in? I added gear oil on the top, and it SLOWLY will drip out around the shaft at that seal. Got any ideas? I just want to run the mower.... think I'd be ok running it with the leak? As long as I keep it level, the bottom half of the transaxle may still hold gear oil right? Anyhow, thanks for your time. Chris.
would that bearing fit a peerless 930? the Axel shafts on mine were starting to get rust pockets bad and I just polished it back up. but for the deeper ones what would you suggest to fill them or you think a bearing alone should prevent contact enough to not bother the aluminum case? Also I have found some bearings say 3/4 ID but would not fit on the shafts. do I need to deep freeze the shafts and heat the bearing? I do intend to use lucus red tacky high temp grease all along the axels and in casement unless there is a reason not to. @SavageOffRoadMowers
Generally I'm not sure if that bearing will fit the 930, I've never frozen an axle for these bearings but I did have to freeze the axle for my ex carbs locker in my peerless 820-016b the tolerances are about .002" so I put it in the deep freezer @ -40°f for 3 days. Otherwise all I can say is try. You shouldn't have to fill the pits because you could warp the axle
@@savageoffroadmowers6199 that's what I thought about the pit but one is pretty sizeable. about 3/8 long and 2-3mm wide. I was thinking babet or lead but IDK if the aluminum would be ok with it or not. I just don't want it to chew the aluminum up.
@@stressmasterbk4294 I would clean it with acetone and apply jb weld and sand smooth, doc sprocket over on sprocket's garage would be a good person to ask about the bearings in a 930
Hi: I have a 206-545C. I had to replace the brake shaft seal. I opened the case and was surprised that there were no axel bearings! There are the recesses for the bearings but there was no bearings. The transaxle is used an old Craftsman riding mower. I don't expect to get many more years of use out of the mower. If I did I would have put in bearings and the drain but the mower is really beat up and old. I just thought it was really odd that there were no bearings and none listed in the owner's manual yet the case is machined for bearings. What to you make of that? .
Thanks for posting this. This definitely answered some questions about the lubrication in the 206-545c on my Ariens. About the drain port you drilled, any chance you could measure the distance from that center ridge to to the hole you drilled? I'd like to do that drain port on my transaxle, but trying to avoid completely tearing it down to find the right location to drill.
As long as you use a ½" bolt and stay about in the center of the front gear bulge you should be fine , the gears have around ⅝" clearance so by the time you subtract ³/16" for the case plus about ¹/16" for the sealant you're only left with ³/16-¼" of bolt penetration into the actual case. It's a shame that these transaxles Don't come with a drain plug from the factory but then again they were only rated for about 2000 rpm input Max vs the 5-6k rpm I'm putting into them
Adding a zerk fitting on the input shaft in the housing isnt a bad idea either, it doesn't get much splash lube so give it a shot of grease occasionally.
Adding the bearings did that help with wear on the brass bushings on the other gears because that’s my problem right now
I have a Craftsman LT1000 w/ Peerless tecumseh mst-206-545c transaxle. My right rear seal must have gone, because it drained out a trail in the yard. All the videos I've seen on changing seals are the plastic ones that are visible on the OUTSIDE. Mine is clearly internal. Is there any way to stop leaking WITHOUT tearing apart/removing the entire transaxle? Any sneaky way of keeping the fluid in? I added gear oil on the top, and it SLOWLY will drip out around the shaft at that seal. Got any ideas? I just want to run the mower.... think I'd be ok running it with the leak? As long as I keep it level, the bottom half of the transaxle may still hold gear oil right? Anyhow, thanks for your time. Chris.
Hi, do you still answer questions?
would that bearing fit a peerless 930? the Axel shafts on mine were starting to get rust pockets bad and I just polished it back up. but for the deeper ones what would you suggest to fill them or you think a bearing alone should prevent contact enough to not bother the aluminum case? Also I have found some bearings say 3/4 ID but would not fit on the shafts. do I need to deep freeze the shafts and heat the bearing? I do intend to use lucus red tacky high temp grease all along the axels and in casement unless there is a reason not to. @SavageOffRoadMowers
Generally I'm not sure if that bearing will fit the 930, I've never frozen an axle for these bearings but I did have to freeze the axle for my ex carbs locker in my peerless 820-016b the tolerances are about .002" so I put it in the deep freezer @ -40°f for 3 days. Otherwise all I can say is try. You shouldn't have to fill the pits because you could warp the axle
@@savageoffroadmowers6199 that's what I thought about the pit but one is pretty sizeable. about 3/8 long and 2-3mm wide. I was thinking babet or lead but IDK if the aluminum would be ok with it or not. I just don't want it to chew the aluminum up.
@@savageoffroadmowers6199 are you also in instagram?
@@stressmasterbk4294 I would clean it with acetone and apply jb weld and sand smooth, doc sprocket over on sprocket's garage would be a good person to ask about the bearings in a 930
@@stressmasterbk4294 no but I am an admin in offroad mudmowers group on FB (mudmower garage on TH-cam)
Do they come stock with bearings I have never seen it but just wondering
What is the size of the barring can I find them at tractor supply
Hi: I have a 206-545C. I had to replace the brake shaft seal. I opened the case and was surprised that there were no axel bearings! There are the recesses for the bearings but there was no bearings. The transaxle is used an old Craftsman riding mower. I don't expect to get many more years of use out of the mower. If I did I would have put in bearings and the drain but the mower is really beat up and old. I just thought it was really odd that there were no bearings and none listed in the owner's manual yet the case is machined for bearings. What to you make of that?
.
Some came with bearings others just had the slots for them, I put bearings in every one that I lock the differential in
Thanks for posting this. This definitely answered some questions about the lubrication in the 206-545c on my Ariens.
About the drain port you drilled, any chance you could measure the distance from that center ridge to to the hole you drilled? I'd like to do that drain port on my transaxle, but trying to avoid completely tearing it down to find the right location to drill.
As long as you use a ½" bolt and stay about in the center of the front gear bulge you should be fine , the gears have around ⅝" clearance so by the time you subtract ³/16" for the case plus about ¹/16" for the sealant you're only left with ³/16-¼" of bolt penetration into the actual case. It's a shame that these transaxles Don't come with a drain plug from the factory but then again they were only rated for about 2000 rpm input Max vs the 5-6k rpm I'm putting into them
@@savageoffroadmowers6199 Awesome, thank you!
Adding a zerk fitting on the input shaft in the housing isnt a bad idea either, it doesn't get much splash lube so give it a shot of grease occasionally.
What is the size of the barring can I find them at tractor supply