unbelievable ........never knew DC could be tweaked to drive so many trains.......you are an electronic whiz-kid.......:))).......thanks for showing John.
Thank you so much sir, it's so refreshing to meet or listen to somebody who has genuine interest and even more the ability and knowledge to explain and show how to do/convert some part of kit without spending lots of money. thanks again.
Hi Tony & thanks for your kind comments. As soon as the other 2 controllers arrive from ebay I'll get the video done ASAP. All you'll need to add is a bog-standard car battery charger! Cheers, John.
Hi John, I love the videos you put on here, I was fascinated to discover you work on valve amps etc. that's my other "hobby" playing through them! keep it up!
Hi Graham, thanks for the comment. I am on DC [analog]. You can check prices for changing to DCC at your local model shop or on the internet however...if you do go DCC you have to add a decoder into each locomotive. Hope this helps you? Cheers, John.
Hi Allen...thanks for your support. Yes...a 13.4 volt 3amp regulated supply will be perfect. If you add lighting to your layout you will need a separate supply as the one you refer too will not handle lights as well! Hope this helps you? Regards, John.
Once again thanks for sharing your wonderful video tutorial. I think I shall learn a lot from watching your vids. I want to modify my single HO controller to beef it up somewhat.
Hi buddy, glad you liked the vid. The case for both types are identical so no bother there. The later Chinese [& some of the later 'Made In England'] ones 1996 onwards use a completely different kind of circuit, a much cheaper option that cannot be modified as much as the 1995 or before ones. There is a way to beef up the later ones but only about 40% more. This is still pretty good, one of these with some mods will run the old Triang stuff 3 locos. & the more modern stuff 4 locos. Cheers, John.
Yes guys I do understand what you are saying but, when the new layout is done I'm going for 8 main lines. I like to see a 'lot happening'. I am not over-fussed about being able to control 2 trains on one track individually. Furthermore, I have around 200 locos & I can't justify the cost of chipping them all for the benefits that it would give of which I can live without. Having said all that, I will be looking to running some dedicated lines on DCC later on the new layout. Regards, John.
Very good John, good tip.. the old athearn locos take a bit of juice to get going.. any tips on the wall transformer, habit of breaking 12 volt wires as they come out of the power pack, can they be repaired...
Fair comment and I was anticipating that response. What I normally suggest is that you consider making part of the layout digital (however big or small) and that way you have the best of both worlds. In your case, a mainly DC layout but with a section of DCC to allow the benefits that brings and with scope for future expansion???
hi john, this is a peach of a video! i really enjoyed it, purely because most of my loco's are old triang and and early hornby and i have never had a controller that runs them well! the new hornby ones are just not powerful enough! so my friend i for one would be really interested in a how to video by your goodself on the controller conversion! regards tony.
Thanks for your nice comments Hugh. OK, I know a fair bit about DCC & as you say you can easily controll 30 locos but; there is a big difference between being able to controll 30 & having the power to actually run them! I know you don't intend to do this for real but it might be worth checking exactly how many locos your DCC system will actually run for real? A 'how too' on lighting will be done in time. Best regards, John.
No buddy...the conversion on the later type circuit is very different to the other one so you can't use the video as a reference for this. I may do a video of the 40% improvement on the later controllers but I want to do some other videos first. Regards, John.
Hi John, thanks for the video, very informative indeed, what was the difference with the Chinese made ones?, as I could make my own box to house the circuit board (if that what the problem is), the problem is finding the older controllers as your video has undoubtedly increased demand! Thanks again
Hi John, Thanks for your time (and effort), So if I did get hold of a later controller could I "Mod" the same way you demonstrated in your video, or is this something you wouldn't recommend?, (Obliviously if I did, it would only be 40% improvement as you mentioned) Thanks again, and keep up the sterling work :)
Hi buddy. OK, I can't put a link here but you can Google 'Champ Electronics, Nottingham'. I am at the top of all the search engines! Also yes...car battery charger is fine or better still a regulated 12 - 15 volts power supply. Cheers, John.
Hi Doug, as I'm not familiar with the 1A & 3A controllers you use I cannot be accurate on any reasons as to what happened there? Maybe you could send me some information on the 2 controllers & then maybe I can give you a more accurate answer? Cheers, John.
I woud have to agree with Dave (howarth004). When I made the switch I couldn't believe the capabilities not to mention options it gives you. If you have seen the size of my layout now, it is all controlled from a single track feed point and no extra boosting has been added to the control system. I have no power problems at all when running as many locos as I can keep my eye on.
Hi John, getting back into modeling and was very interested in your beefing up of an ordinary Transformer. was wondering if I could buy one off you. if not can you recommend an off the shelf product that works as well as yours? Cheers Chris
Thanks for your great videos, I'm waiting for a bit of time to do this mod,ive got al the parts now apart from a battery charger ! Would a13.4 volt regulated power supply 3amp continuous , 5amp surge do the job ?, best regards, thanks again, Allan
Thanks for the whimsical [I think that's how you spell it?] comment Dougie. I know what you mean about motors smoking under a high load but it doesn't quite work like that. Any motor only draws the amount of current it needs so....if a given motor draws 1/2 an amp then that's it....it doesn't matter whether the supply is 1 amp, 10, amps or 100 amps....the motor will still only require the 1/2 amp. Hope this helps you understand a bit more how it works? Cheers, John
thats exellent for dc john, iv changed to dcc now but could never get that control with my dc, they would always conk out, mind i think dcc is much better i think if im right i can run up to 30 locos with my control unit, not that it will ever happen as layout not big enough, how big is your new layout going to be and any ideas when your starting it, if your doing light signals and just normal lighting to sheds , street lights, would like to see a how to, thanks m8, .....hugh
Hi Ash, I just wanted to thank you again for the sub & interest you have shown in my channel. I would like to be in a position like yourself & Will [intercity82] with loads of followers & subscribers. I guess it will get better in time as I've only been on since November 2011....I guess it will take time. I have so many ideas to put in videos that I'm having to start to write them down now! Did you see the vid with the Gas Turbine? Kind regards, John.
Hi John, I won a couple of controllers and just awaiting them arriving from across the pond and will have a go at converting them. What is the link to your company website and I take it you require the car battery charger to power teh controllers? Thanks
Hi John, interesting video! Of course these controllers are a feedback type using PWM such that your peak to peak voltage can be quite high. This can cause heat, so I was wondering what input voltage you could use and still get a fair speed or required speed from the locos, less would reduce the heat on the loco. I run one of these on a small play layout from a 6v AC supply and get all the speed and four locos (Hornby Smokey Joe type) to run without issue. Personally I like a smooth dc supply derived from a darlington pair or such like, be interested in your views? (if you have time :)
MikesMovies Well Mike, I understand all that you've said in this comment. I think you've answered your own question here with the 6VAC supply & the 4 small locos. Not sure you would get away with 4 heavier locos though? I take on board what you say about the smooth supply which is exactly what I am using from the 10 amp regulated unit however, as you so rightly say, the controllers do convert this to a PWM....kind-of pulsed DC....of which I prefer. It is know that a DC motor actually performs better at lower speeds like this. Thanks for your support. All the best, John.
chambs123 Hi John, full reply now lol. Thanks for the good answer. I have since tried and while the 6VAC supply is capable of powering a X04 fitted loco, it does so at only mid speed! I think the debate about control will rage on for ever more. Personally I love the concept of DCC but hate the grinding noise many locos have as a result of the PWM. I still own a Safety Minor by H&M this had a half wave option (horrors) older motors do seem to do better with some noise that us true. The safety minor was my 2nd controller before that dad gave me a Kerdon Major, looked very much like a old battery charger lol no idea about its output but it used to burn out the wires going to the layout every so often, but I still have the locos and original motors to this day. Great discussion and videos as always. Mike
Hi Ash....I can't PM you as you haven't added me as a friend. I just wanted to let you know about my latest vid....classic American steamers part 1. Hope you like it? Cheers, John.
Hi John, I have been watching your videos over the last few days with much interest indeed. I have been buying items over last few months with a plan to convert the loft and set up a layout. Your videos have been very informative and very instructive indeed. Thanks from me and all of us looking to get started or just have, its good to see people sharing their knowledge with the rest of us. I have one quick question, do i presume correctly that in the video here we only need one battery charger to cover several controllers. Im looking at 4 main lines running, and with buying second hand older stock the idea of dcc being fitted to all is daunting and expensive, DC was good enough for me as a kid so staying with it.
Paul Norman Hi Paul & thanks for your great comment. OK, one battery charger should be fine if it has about 4 - 5 amps available from it however, the down side with this is as you introduce the second, third & forth lines the 1st line will slow a little through the voltage drop.....same for the 2nd & 3rd etc. This is because battery chargers are not stabelized. There are only 2 ways around this. (1). Use 4 separate battery chargers (they don't need to be expensive ones!) or (2). use a regulated power supply like the type that I use. Hope this all helps? Kind regards, John.
Sorry John but I am afraid the HM2000 is a load of shite in my opinion! The regulation between the 2 channels is crap as it only uses a single transformer! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, John.
Hello John i have losted your video instructions of wiring up the lights etc with all the bits that go with it as you had kindly made for everyone to view step by step.I have subscribed your good self.If you can recall making it with DIODES/RESISTORS/CAPACITORS/THERMISTOR/POWER SUPPLE MODULE/PRECISION PRENTIOMETER:---AS I HAVE OBTAINED A SMALL BREAD BOARD ELECTRONIC TEST KIT SO I GET TO KNOW WHAT I AM DOING BEFORE I TOUCH MY ROLLING STOCK.WAGONS ETC - UNLESS I LOOK INTO EVERYONE OF YOUR VIDEO'S TO LOCATED THE REQUIRE ONE I WANT ...THANK YOU KINDLY JOHN ..CAROL .PS IF YOU REQUIRE MY EMAIL ADDRESS I WILL KINDLY FORWARD IT ONTO YOU
This will solve what i have been pondering on to double or triple head my trains thankyou John.
Cheers from John in Australia
unbelievable ........never knew DC could be tweaked to drive so many trains.......you are an electronic whiz-kid.......:))).......thanks for showing John.
Thank you so much sir, it's so refreshing to meet or listen to somebody who has genuine interest and even more the ability and knowledge to explain and show how to do/convert some part of kit without spending lots of money. thanks again.
Hi Tony & thanks for your kind comments. As soon as the other 2 controllers arrive from ebay I'll get the video done ASAP. All you'll need to add is a bog-standard car battery charger! Cheers, John.
Hi John, I love the videos you put on here, I was fascinated to discover you work on valve amps etc. that's my other "hobby" playing through them! keep it up!
Thanks for the nice comment buddy & yes....if you ever need a valve/tube amp sorting you know where I am! Best regards, John.
Hi Matey....big thanks for your kind comment & support....I do try my best.
Regards, John.
Hi Graham, thanks for the comment. I am on DC [analog]. You can check prices for changing to DCC at your local model shop or on the internet however...if you do go DCC you have to add a decoder into each locomotive. Hope this helps you? Cheers, John.
Hi Allen...thanks for your support. Yes...a 13.4 volt 3amp regulated supply will be perfect. If you add lighting to your layout you will need a separate supply as the one you refer too will not handle lights as well! Hope this helps you? Regards, John.
Exactly what I had planned in my mind Dave for the new layout. Cheers, John.
Once again thanks for sharing your wonderful video tutorial. I think I shall learn a lot from watching your vids. I want to modify my single HO controller to beef it up somewhat.
subbed! brilliant videos,you have some real skill there in being able to mod those controllers!
I couldn't aggree more! Big thanks for the comment. Cheers, John.
Thanks for your comment buddy. Glad you are enjoying the videos. Cheers, John.
Hi buddy, glad you liked the vid. The case for both types are identical so no bother there. The later Chinese [& some of the later 'Made In England'] ones 1996 onwards use a completely different kind of circuit, a much cheaper option that cannot be modified as much as the 1995 or before ones. There is a way to beef up the later ones but only about 40% more. This is still pretty good, one of these with some mods will run the old Triang stuff 3 locos. & the more modern stuff 4 locos. Cheers, John.
Thanks Jake.....I like Lima locos too....they make some great stuff! Cheers, John.
Yes guys I do understand what you are saying but, when the new layout is done I'm going for 8 main lines. I like to see a 'lot happening'. I am not over-fussed about being able to control 2 trains on one track individually. Furthermore, I have around 200 locos & I can't justify the cost of chipping them all for the benefits that it would give of which I can live without.
Having said all that, I will be looking to running some dedicated lines on DCC later on the new layout. Regards, John.
Very good John, good tip.. the old athearn locos take a bit of juice to get going.. any tips on the wall transformer, habit of breaking 12 volt wires as they come out of the power pack, can they be repaired...
Fair comment and I was anticipating that response. What I normally suggest is that you consider making part of the layout digital (however big or small) and that way you have the best of both worlds. In your case, a mainly DC layout but with a section of DCC to allow the benefits that brings and with scope for future expansion???
hi john, this is a peach of a video! i really enjoyed it, purely because most of my loco's are old triang and and early hornby and i have never had a controller that runs them well! the new hornby ones are just not powerful enough! so my friend i for one would be really interested in a how to video by your goodself on the controller conversion! regards tony.
Thanks buddy, I appreciate the advise. Cheers, John.
Thanks for the comment & glad you are enjoying my vids. Cheers, John.
Thanks buddy for your comment, interest & support. Cheers, John.
Thanks for your nice comments Hugh. OK, I know a fair bit about DCC & as you say you can easily controll 30 locos but; there is a big difference between being able to controll 30 & having the power to actually run them! I know you don't intend to do this for real but it might be worth checking exactly how many locos your DCC system will actually run for real?
A 'how too' on lighting will be done in time.
Best regards, John.
wow!Outstanding John
No buddy...the conversion on the later type circuit is very different to the other one so you can't use the video as a reference for this. I may do a video of the 40% improvement on the later controllers but I want to do some other videos first.
Regards, John.
Hi John, thanks for the video, very informative indeed, what was the difference with the Chinese made ones?, as I could make my own box to house the circuit board (if that what the problem is), the problem is finding the older controllers as your video has undoubtedly increased demand!
Thanks again
Hi John, Thanks for your time (and effort), So if I did get hold of a later controller could I "Mod" the same way you demonstrated in your video, or is this something you wouldn't recommend?, (Obliviously if I did, it would only be 40% improvement as you mentioned)
Thanks again, and keep up the sterling work :)
Hi buddy. OK, I can't put a link here but you can Google 'Champ Electronics, Nottingham'. I am at the top of all the search engines!
Also yes...car battery charger is fine or better still a regulated 12 - 15 volts power supply. Cheers, John.
Hi Doug, as I'm not familiar with the 1A & 3A controllers you use I cannot be accurate on any reasons as to what happened there? Maybe you could send me some information on the 2 controllers & then maybe I can give you a more accurate answer? Cheers, John.
I woud have to agree with Dave (howarth004). When I made the switch I couldn't believe the capabilities not to mention options it gives you. If you have seen the size of my layout now, it is all controlled from a single track feed point and no extra boosting has been added to the control system. I have no power problems at all when running as many locos as I can keep my eye on.
have you tried holtering a later controlleras mine are 95/96
Hi John, getting back into modeling and was very interested in your beefing up of an ordinary Transformer. was wondering if I could buy one off you. if not can you recommend an off the shelf product that works as well as yours? Cheers Chris
+chris taylor Hi Chris & sorry I don't have any spares to sell however there are plenty on Ebay. Hope that helps? Regards, John.
Thanks for your great videos, I'm waiting for a bit of time to do this mod,ive got al the parts now apart from a battery charger ! Would a13.4 volt regulated power supply 3amp continuous , 5amp surge do the job ?, best regards, thanks again, Allan
John, have you done anything on how to modify the later controllers. I am struggling to find one made before 95.
Hey John. What's a quid? I'm an American, mate, and don't quite know what a quid is. I suppose it's slang for a British pound sterling???
Yes it is slang for a pound
Thanks for the whimsical [I think that's how you spell it?] comment Dougie. I know what you mean about motors smoking under a high load but it doesn't quite work like that. Any motor only draws the amount of current it needs so....if a given motor draws 1/2 an amp then that's it....it doesn't matter whether the supply is 1 amp, 10, amps or 100 amps....the motor will still only require the 1/2 amp. Hope this helps you understand a bit more how it works? Cheers, John
thats exellent for dc john, iv changed to dcc now but could never get that control with my dc, they would always conk out, mind i think dcc is much better i think if im right i can run up to 30 locos with my control unit, not that it will ever happen as layout not big enough, how big is your new layout going to be and any ideas when your starting it, if your doing light signals and just normal lighting to sheds , street lights, would like to see a how to, thanks m8, .....hugh
Hi Ash, I just wanted to thank you again for the sub & interest you have shown in my channel. I would like to be in a position like yourself & Will [intercity82] with loads of followers & subscribers.
I guess it will get better in time as I've only been on since November 2011....I guess it will take time.
I have so many ideas to put in videos that I'm having to start to write them down now!
Did you see the vid with the Gas Turbine?
Kind regards, John.
do you run dc or dcc and how much does dcc cost and do i have to mod any engines ????? graham brill layout by the way
Hi John, I won a couple of controllers and just awaiting them arriving from across the pond and will have a go at converting them. What is the link to your company website and I take it you require the car battery charger to power teh controllers? Thanks
Hi John, interesting video! Of course these controllers are a feedback type using PWM such that your peak to peak voltage can be quite high. This can cause heat, so I was wondering what input voltage you could use and still get a fair speed or required speed from the locos, less would reduce the heat on the loco. I run one of these on a small play layout from a 6v AC supply and get all the speed and four locos (Hornby Smokey Joe type) to run without issue. Personally I like a smooth dc supply derived from a darlington pair or such like, be interested in your views? (if you have time :)
MikesMovies Well Mike, I understand all that you've said in this comment. I think you've answered your own question here with the 6VAC supply & the 4 small locos. Not sure you would get away with 4 heavier locos though? I take on board what you say about the smooth supply which is exactly what I am using from the 10 amp regulated unit however, as you so rightly say, the controllers do convert this to a PWM....kind-of pulsed DC....of which I prefer. It is know that a DC motor actually performs better at lower speeds like this. Thanks for your support. All the best, John.
Hi John, great to hear back about this. All the best Mike
chambs123 Hi John, full reply now lol. Thanks for the good answer. I have since tried and while the 6VAC supply is capable of powering a X04 fitted loco, it does so at only mid speed! I think the debate about control will rage on for ever more. Personally I love the concept of DCC but hate the grinding noise many locos have as a result of the PWM. I still own a Safety Minor by H&M this had a half wave option (horrors) older motors do seem to do better with some noise that us true. The safety minor was my 2nd controller before that dad gave me a Kerdon Major, looked very much like a old battery charger lol no idea about its output but it used to burn out the wires going to the layout every so often, but I still have the locos and original motors to this day. Great discussion and videos as always. Mike
Hi Ash....I can't PM you as you haven't added me as a friend. I just wanted to let you know about my latest vid....classic American steamers part 1. Hope you like it? Cheers, John.
Hi John, I have been watching your videos over the last few days with much interest indeed. I have been buying items over last few months with a plan to convert the loft and set up a layout. Your videos have been very informative and very instructive indeed. Thanks from me and all of us looking to get started or just have, its good to see people sharing their knowledge with the rest of us. I have one quick question, do i presume correctly that in the video here we only need one battery charger to cover several controllers. Im looking at 4 main lines running, and with buying second hand older stock the idea of dcc being fitted to all is daunting and expensive, DC was good enough for me as a kid so staying with it.
Paul Norman Hi Paul & thanks for your great comment. OK, one battery charger should be fine if it has about 4 - 5 amps available from it however, the down side with this is as you introduce the second, third & forth lines the 1st line will slow a little through the voltage drop.....same for the 2nd & 3rd etc. This is because battery chargers are not stabelized. There are only 2 ways around this. (1). Use 4 separate battery chargers (they don't need to be expensive ones!) or (2). use a regulated power supply like the type that I use. Hope this all helps? Kind regards, John.
thanks for the prompt reply, and praise where praise is due
Paul Norman No worries Paul & glad to have been of help. All the very best, cheers, John.
I was hoping that this was going to show a HM2000 and its extra controller units being modified rather than the smaller train set controller's.
Sorry John but I am afraid the HM2000 is a load of shite in my opinion! The regulation between the 2 channels is crap as it only uses a single transformer! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, John.
Hello John i have losted your video instructions of wiring up the lights etc with all the bits that go with it as you had kindly made for everyone to view step by step.I have subscribed your good self.If you can recall making it with DIODES/RESISTORS/CAPACITORS/THERMISTOR/POWER SUPPLE MODULE/PRECISION PRENTIOMETER:---AS I HAVE OBTAINED A SMALL BREAD BOARD ELECTRONIC TEST KIT SO I GET TO KNOW WHAT I AM DOING BEFORE I TOUCH MY ROLLING STOCK.WAGONS ETC - UNLESS I LOOK INTO EVERYONE OF YOUR VIDEO'S TO LOCATED THE REQUIRE ONE I WANT ...THANK YOU KINDLY JOHN ..CAROL .PS IF YOU REQUIRE MY EMAIL ADDRESS I WILL KINDLY FORWARD IT ONTO YOU
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