The great Anatoli Boukreev went out ALONE into that wind, that blizzard, that dark night in those freezing conditions, he speaks of here, and rescued lives. Anatoli Boukreev probably the greatest climber who ever lived.
Boukreev was an excellent climber but a lousy guide. And in 1996 he was member of the Mountain Madness team as (the best paid) guide and not as a solo climber. He had massive responsibility for Fischer's clients and failed totally. Fischer knew this, Ingrid Hunt knew this, Dr. Caroline McKenzie knew this, and all clients also knew this. Irresponsible! April, 22th, 1996: Where has been Boukreev when sherpa of the Mountain Madness team Ngawang Topche collapsed on HAPE in camp 2 and had to rescued? May, 7th, 1996: Scott Fischer advised Boukreev to guide clients from camp 1 to camp 2. Boukreev ignored his device, took a shower and left the camp 5 hours later than his clients. The clients he was responsible for climbed without any guidance when Dale Kruse collapsed on a relapse of HACE. Scott Fischer had to ascend very fast to rescue Kruse. Because of Boukreev's indiscipline Scott Fischer had no day's rest. That was very important to prepare for summit day and is obviously one (of many) reason why Fischer had no power to descent on summit day and died on the mountain. May, 10th, 1996: The whole summit day Boukreev didn't care about any client. He climbed without additional oxygen. No guide has ever done anything like this because the lack of oxygen makes helping others in the death zone nearly impossible. Boukrrev was no guide on summit day. He was a solo climber tryinf to become the first one reach summit in 1996. Unbelievable selfish! May, 10th, 1996: When Boukreev left Camp 4 to search for the missing climbers he climbed towards summit. The problem with his "heroic rescue mission": He didn't know who was in trouble? He didn't know where climbers were in trouble? And he didn't know what kind of trouble they had? He had no radio set. The truth: The clients he was resposible for (Madsen, Fox, Gammelgaard, Pittman-Hill and Klev Schoening) were already on the plateau of camp 4 only approx 200 m far away from the tents fighting against death. Sounds like irony! Remember: Mountain Madness team members think the same. David Breashers thinks the same. Ed Viesturs thinks the same. Reinhold Messner thinks the same.
Frank H. Rockel I think that’s a little unfair. People should be responsible enough to know their limitations when climbing 8000 meter peaks. He is the reason some people are alive. And I don’t believe anyone but Fischer died from Mountain Madness, which means that all of the clients returned safely.
@@frankh.rockel5811 Interesting point. However as a mountaineer I feel the everyone is responsible for themselves, especially at that altitude. I would go there assuming that if I collapsed above 8000m, I would not be helped - since it is so difficult and a bit rude to impose upon other's climb.That is a central part of the "adventure" - knowing that there is no rescue. I wonder if he brought that up? I wonder if he stressed to those clients that "there is nobody that can save you, your bitch ass is alone" That's why it makes what he did so remarkable. Because it's impossible, but he still did it.
@@frankh.rockel5811 Let's agree that he may have done some things that were not expected, or has not done things that were expected. Emphasis is on "may" and "some". We'll never have complete details and everyone's perspective on the events. Nonetheless, he did help save some lives, he didn't have to do that. It's ridiculous to pin other deaths on one person as if he was expected to act like movie's Superman. Fisher's decision to summit and not get additional rest was his and his alone. Clients decisions to climb Everest with the risk of dying, was theirs and theirs alone; no one forced them. Boukreev climbing without oxygen doesn't cancel his guide status. What exactly was he supposed to do even if he had oxygen with him? Carry clients in his arms and sing them lullabies? Most professional climbers agree that climbing especially above certain altitudes is extremely dangerous and you are your own safety. If these clients didn't know that and didn't understand limitations, then the fault lies with them and possibly the company who facilitated the expedition without educating them properly. We've seen that happening over the years, with reports of clients learning how to double-boot or use ropes while climbing the mountain.
@@frankh.rockel5811 Adding two very important things that were crucial in this disaster. 1. There are reports that Fisher's sherpa had to help short-rope one of the clients up the mountain. This sherpa should have been with Rob's sherpa securing ropes to the summit. Had they done this as planned, they could have summited earlier. But they wasted hours and delayed their summit arrival. 2. They didn't adhere to their set turnaround time. First they got delayed because ropes were not secured in time, and then they were loose about the turnaround time rule. These two things converged and caused some to be caught high-up in the unexpected violent storm. Poor decision making by the team leads of the expedition. Had they fixed the ropes on time and stuck to the original turnaround time, the rest of the conversation would be moot. There would be no mention of Boukreev or any other scapegoat for this tragedy.
Ask this bozo how many bodies did you attempt to recover. Now that this has become a routine hike why not recover the dead rotting carcasses or are you going to leave them to enhance the experience of the death zoooooooonnnneee?
Why don’t you volunteer and setup an expedition to do that - then you might see how hard it is to prise a frozen stiff, heavy corpse from its icy grave (and probably frozen to the mountain), and carry it down the mountain, all the while dealing with difficult conditions, subzero temperatures, struggling for breath and fighting tiredness at >8000metres. Sherpas went up not long ago to retrieve a body and it took 12hours for a team of them to recover one person.
Steve S Every word of your comment is absolutely right on point. Why? Why would anyone justify another person to hike to the top without first removing the bodies and the trash left from the past hikers who are only concerned with talking about how they faced such dangers and were inches away from certain death at every step. You never hear about the thousands upon thousands of people who make this journey without incident. You always hear how incredibly close to death every hiker is when reliving the glory of the climb.
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A man with great character.
The great Anatoli Boukreev went out ALONE into that wind, that blizzard, that dark night in those freezing conditions, he speaks of here, and rescued lives. Anatoli Boukreev probably the greatest climber who ever lived.
Boukreev was an excellent climber but a lousy guide. And in 1996 he was member of the Mountain Madness team as (the best paid) guide and not as a solo climber. He had massive responsibility for Fischer's clients and failed totally. Fischer knew this, Ingrid Hunt knew this, Dr. Caroline McKenzie knew this, and all clients also knew this. Irresponsible!
April, 22th, 1996: Where has been Boukreev when sherpa of the Mountain Madness team Ngawang Topche collapsed on HAPE in camp 2 and had to rescued?
May, 7th, 1996: Scott Fischer advised Boukreev to guide clients from camp 1 to camp 2. Boukreev ignored his device, took a shower and left the camp 5 hours later than his clients. The clients he was responsible for climbed without any guidance when Dale Kruse collapsed on a relapse of HACE. Scott Fischer had to ascend very fast to rescue Kruse. Because of Boukreev's indiscipline Scott Fischer had no day's rest. That was very important to prepare for summit day and is obviously one (of many) reason why Fischer had no power to descent on summit day and died on the mountain.
May, 10th, 1996: The whole summit day Boukreev didn't care about any client. He climbed without additional oxygen. No guide has ever done anything like this because the lack of oxygen makes helping others in the death zone nearly impossible. Boukrrev was no guide on summit day. He was a solo climber tryinf to become the first one reach summit in 1996. Unbelievable selfish!
May, 10th, 1996: When Boukreev left Camp 4 to search for the missing climbers he climbed towards summit. The problem with his "heroic rescue mission": He didn't know who was in trouble? He didn't know where climbers were in trouble? And he didn't know what kind of trouble they had? He had no radio set. The truth: The clients he was resposible for (Madsen, Fox, Gammelgaard, Pittman-Hill and Klev Schoening) were already on the plateau of camp 4 only approx 200 m far away from the tents fighting against death. Sounds like irony!
Remember: Mountain Madness team members think the same. David Breashers thinks the same. Ed Viesturs thinks the same. Reinhold Messner thinks the same.
Frank H. Rockel I think that’s a little unfair. People should be responsible enough to know their limitations when climbing 8000 meter peaks. He is the reason some people are alive. And I don’t believe anyone but Fischer died from Mountain Madness, which means that all of the clients returned safely.
@@frankh.rockel5811 Interesting point. However as a mountaineer I feel the everyone is responsible for themselves, especially at that altitude. I would go there assuming that if I collapsed above 8000m, I would not be helped - since it is so difficult and a bit rude to impose upon other's climb.That is a central part of the "adventure" - knowing that there is no rescue.
I wonder if he brought that up? I wonder if he stressed to those clients that "there is nobody that can save you, your bitch ass is alone" That's why it makes what he did so remarkable. Because it's impossible, but he still did it.
@@frankh.rockel5811 Let's agree that he may have done some things that were not expected, or has not done things that were expected. Emphasis is on "may" and "some". We'll never have complete details and everyone's perspective on the events.
Nonetheless, he did help save some lives, he didn't have to do that. It's ridiculous to pin other deaths on one person as if he was expected to act like movie's Superman. Fisher's decision to summit and not get additional rest was his and his alone. Clients decisions to climb Everest with the risk of dying, was theirs and theirs alone; no one forced them. Boukreev climbing without oxygen doesn't cancel his guide status. What exactly was he supposed to do even if he had oxygen with him? Carry clients in his arms and sing them lullabies? Most professional climbers agree that climbing especially above certain altitudes is extremely dangerous and you are your own safety. If these clients didn't know that and didn't understand limitations, then the fault lies with them and possibly the company who facilitated the expedition without educating them properly. We've seen that happening over the years, with reports of clients learning how to double-boot or use ropes while climbing the mountain.
@@frankh.rockel5811 Adding two very important things that were crucial in this disaster.
1. There are reports that Fisher's sherpa had to help short-rope one of the clients up the mountain. This sherpa should have been with Rob's sherpa securing ropes to the summit. Had they done this as planned, they could have summited earlier. But they wasted hours and delayed their summit arrival.
2. They didn't adhere to their set turnaround time. First they got delayed because ropes were not secured in time, and then they were loose about the turnaround time rule. These two things converged and caused some to be caught high-up in the unexpected violent storm. Poor decision making by the team leads of the expedition.
Had they fixed the ropes on time and stuck to the original turnaround time, the rest of the conversation would be moot. There would be no mention of Boukreev or any other scapegoat for this tragedy.
He also supplied oxygen to the victims on camp 4 and helped bring beck weathers down to camp 1, absolute legend
Thank you David Breashears
David is a warrior. Amazing guy.
Everest is not only overcrowded with people, it's covered in trash. The purity of the experience of climbing Everest is gone forever.
Trash and dead bodies!
Nice bloke, very experienced climber
1983 on the summit! 136th person to ever summit. Wow
I really admire David, and Everest is my favorite movie. I've watched it many, many times.
David is built different 5 summits that's crazy!
Rip
I remember seeing him on a Documentary a few years back, cant find the YT video anymore. Sad to hear the news
I read he passed away a couple of months ago. It was very tough news to hear. He will definitely be missed. Does anyone know how he died?
Great interview
What a legend!
I would dare climb 🧗♀️ Everest if David would be my guide because I have faith in his ability to climb MT Everest he has proven it countless times.
Why no one watched the weather
I admire David, but IMHO the movie is a mess.
How so?
Ask this bozo how many bodies did you attempt to recover. Now that this has become a routine hike why not recover the dead rotting carcasses or are you going to leave them to enhance the experience of the death zoooooooonnnneee?
Why don’t you volunteer and setup an expedition to do that - then you might see how hard it is to prise a frozen stiff, heavy corpse from its icy grave (and probably frozen to the mountain), and carry it down the mountain, all the while dealing with difficult conditions, subzero temperatures, struggling for breath and fighting tiredness at >8000metres.
Sherpas went up not long ago to retrieve a body and it took 12hours for a team of them to recover one person.
Steve S Every word of your comment is absolutely right on point. Why? Why would anyone justify another person to hike to the top without first removing the bodies and the trash left from the past hikers who are only concerned with talking about how they faced such dangers and were inches away from certain death at every step. You never hear about the thousands upon thousands of people who make this journey without incident. You always hear how incredibly close to death every hiker is when reliving the glory of the climb.
Thanks for this interview. A legend has Passed. 🏔️