This winter is going to be my first year in the winter doing mountaineering in the highlands of Scotland. Been doing tons of research into gear and I have everything I need at beginner level. Thanks for the video.
Ryan, I would love it if you did a video on shelters. Specifically, your approach to balancing weight vs weather worthiness in areas that can get very very windy. I’m looking for the most windprotection and ability to met snow (vestibule needed) but I hate carrying a tent more than 6 lbs. Would be great to see your shelter quiver and your use cases, as opposed to all the paid content crap videos/articles.
Ya sure thing man, that would be a good video to do now that we’re on the start of mountaineering season, I’ll try to get around to that one real soon!
For me it more depends on the amount of snow, but usually in the warmer summer months when the temp usually goes down to around the mid- high 30's the single boots are ok. Any lower than that and I like the doubles.
I’ve used mine in -25 degree weather before and if you wear nice circulation promoting socks and don’t stop moving very often they work fine! A lil chilly on the toes but no frostbite!
Hi Ryan! That is for the video. What are your thoughts on the Petzl Gully as either a primary or secondary axe for non-technical trips? Would you put in the same toy category as the Camp axes?
I need good glacier glasses but Julbo are too narrow for my fave can you provide some more suggestions of brands or models? What about ski goggles? Thanks
Do you think it is necessary to take full shank mountaineering boots for disappointment clever on rainier? From what I've read its not technical at all, I'm thinking a goretex hiking boot with strap on crampons. whats your take? TIA!
I would recommend taking full shank boots for Rainier, you're right that the DC isn't technical- more just walking uphill, but there are still sections that get icy and depending on the time of the season you may have to do some snow climbing too. Having flexible footwear won't give you as much support on that sort of terrain. Also it's not uncommon to have ladders bridging crevasses on Rainier for most of the season, when you step on them you usually balance between the front points of your crampons and the back heel part of them, you get a lot of support from a full shank boot and the two pieces of footwear work together, if you use your hiking boot then the middle could bend down and possibly break the center bar of your crampon (depending on the materials and manufacturer.) Temperatures can get down into the single digits easily on summit day on Rainier, even in the hight of the season, most hiking boots aren't made for those temperatures so you could end up freezing your feet, unless your using snow boots, which would have the exact same problems as hiking boots. Bottom line, I would recommend using mountaineering boots, some folks with warm feet can use three quarter shank boots, but these are both boots made for mountaineering and are fully crampon compatible. Are you going with friends or a guide service? You can ask either of them for more information and if you haven't already it's nice to go on a few smaller climbs first to help dial in your gear, the Easton route, or Collman- Demming on Baker are great ways to test out your gear! Thanks for watching and I hope your summit bid goes well!
@@ryantilley9063 Wow! Thanks so much for the detailed response! You have a lot of good content and deserve a lot more views(I'll be sure to share with my friends). I plan on going to rainier in late August and will be going with full shank boots upon your recommendations. What guiding company do you work for or do you recommend another one? What's the best place to rent mountaineering boots and a pick?
Awesome man, glad I could help! Right now I'm working for two guide services in Washington, Miyar Adventures and Northwest Alpine Guides. Both those companies don't have commercial permits for Rainier so both of them only offer one trip a year which are both full at the moment. Some good serivces to go with are the "big three" (RMI, AAI, and IMG) I don't what's happing with their Rainier program at the moment with COVID but they usually have at least one trip every week for Rainier. If you do end up going with a service then you can usually rent boots from them, but if you want to go with different ones or get your hands on some for different climbs you can rent everything you need for mountaineering from the Miyar Adventure store (it's a guide service and a retail store.) I think Ascent Outdoors also does rentals, but they may not have as big of a selection as Miyar. Both stores have the same owner so I'm sure you guys could work something out.
This winter is going to be my first year in the winter doing mountaineering in the highlands of Scotland. Been doing tons of research into gear and I have everything I need at beginner level. Thanks for the video.
A great honest no-nonsense video.
Keep up the good work.
Michael Butler.
(Mountaineer)
Brisbane, AUSTRALIA.
Bro, congrats on 1k!! Your videos totally deserve it! Can't wait to see it grow even more.
Notice the Sasquatch icons.
Any Sasquatch Stories to share?
Great Job!
Thanks for the content, you are a lot of help.
Ryan, I would love it if you did a video on shelters. Specifically, your approach to balancing weight vs weather worthiness in areas that can get very very windy. I’m looking for the most windprotection and ability to met snow (vestibule needed) but I hate carrying a tent more than 6 lbs. Would be great to see your shelter quiver and your use cases, as opposed to all the paid content crap videos/articles.
Ya sure thing man, that would be a good video to do now that we’re on the start of mountaineering season, I’ll try to get around to that one real soon!
That would be awesome, I would like to see that one also! Thanks Ryan
Hey, amazing video! What temperature do you use the Nepal boots in before putting a double boot?
For me it more depends on the amount of snow, but usually in the warmer summer months when the temp usually goes down to around the mid- high 30's the single boots are ok. Any lower than that and I like the doubles.
I’ve used mine in -25 degree weather before and if you wear nice circulation promoting socks and don’t stop moving very often they work fine! A lil chilly on the toes but no frostbite!
Hi Ryan! That is for the video. What are your thoughts on the Petzl Gully as either a primary or secondary axe for non-technical trips? Would you put in the same toy category as the Camp axes?
I need good glacier glasses but Julbo are too narrow for my fave can you provide some more suggestions of brands or models? What about ski goggles? Thanks
Do you think it is necessary to take full shank mountaineering boots for disappointment clever on rainier?
From what I've read its not technical at all, I'm thinking a goretex hiking boot with strap on crampons. whats your take?
TIA!
I would recommend taking full shank boots for Rainier, you're right that the DC isn't technical- more just walking uphill, but there are still sections that get icy and depending on the time of the season you may have to do some snow climbing too. Having flexible footwear won't give you as much support on that sort of terrain. Also it's not uncommon to have ladders bridging crevasses on Rainier for most of the season, when you step on them you usually balance between the front points of your crampons and the back heel part of them, you get a lot of support from a full shank boot and the two pieces of footwear work together, if you use your hiking boot then the middle could bend down and possibly break the center bar of your crampon (depending on the materials and manufacturer.)
Temperatures can get down into the single digits easily on summit day on Rainier, even in the hight of the season, most hiking boots aren't made for those temperatures so you could end up freezing your feet, unless your using snow boots, which would have the exact same problems as hiking boots.
Bottom line, I would recommend using mountaineering boots, some folks with warm feet can use three quarter shank boots, but these are both boots made for mountaineering and are fully crampon compatible.
Are you going with friends or a guide service? You can ask either of them for more information and if you haven't already it's nice to go on a few smaller climbs first to help dial in your gear, the Easton route, or Collman- Demming on Baker are great ways to test out your gear!
Thanks for watching and I hope your summit bid goes well!
@@ryantilley9063 Wow!
Thanks so much for the detailed response! You have a lot of good content and deserve a lot more views(I'll be sure to share with my friends). I plan on going to rainier in late August and will be going with full shank boots upon your recommendations. What guiding company do you work for or do you recommend another one? What's the best place to rent mountaineering boots and a pick?
Awesome man, glad I could help! Right now I'm working for two guide services in Washington, Miyar Adventures and Northwest Alpine Guides. Both those companies don't have commercial permits for Rainier so both of them only offer one trip a year which are both full at the moment. Some good serivces to go with are the "big three" (RMI, AAI, and IMG) I don't what's happing with their Rainier program at the moment with COVID but they usually have at least one trip every week for Rainier.
If you do end up going with a service then you can usually rent boots from them, but if you want to go with different ones or get your hands on some for different climbs you can rent everything you need for mountaineering from the Miyar Adventure store (it's a guide service and a retail store.) I think Ascent Outdoors also does rentals, but they may not have as big of a selection as Miyar. Both stores have the same owner so I'm sure you guys could work something out.
@@ryantilley9063 Thanks again.