If the splines are too tight you run the risk of stripping the installation tool or the internal spindle threads. Clean everything well. Scrub the splines thoroughly with a wire brush. Use plenty of grease on the splines and threads. This video was shot on cranks that had already been assembled before. Fresh cranks will be STUPID TIGHT. You might even consider freezing the spindle and gently heating the crank.
For the most part, you are 100% correct, but PLEASE do not heat any of our parts up. If it is warm enough to change the metal's properties for install, it is warm enough to weaken the metal and welds! Good prep, using the tools, and grease are the way to go, like you said!
I'm glad you mentioned it .that's 3 things I chould do , to make the job easier. I'm working on a new set of GT cranks, I will start by cleaning the spindle and putting the spindle in the fridge and cranks in the sun. I'm getting a brand new set of fat profiles. I think cleaning the splines is all I need, plus it comes with a tool, I didn't have the tool .
@Scott Oyster I feel a bit ripped off. It's very difficult to do this with new cranks because they fit extremely tigh.. In the end you spoil your tools, scratches on the cranks, dirty hands, sweat, anger and a lot of money wasted. Nothing is cheap in profile, including shipping, taxes etc, the price is not proportional to the lack of information or help after buying and trying to install. I think that the ego pushes me to buy their products, which honestly are becoming a constant headache. I don't regret buying the hubset years ago, but I just bought a second titanium spindle and I almost cried when I saw and understood that now another small part is missing and it costs 15 times less than shipping. It's crazy, as you say they are an empire and they don't really care about the user. I will not buy these products again. Thank you for your comment, it is very brave.
Thank you. There’s a set halfway installed in my garage from earlier today (I knew it was going to be a pain) but foolishly didn’t greese them nvm wire brush and clean
Torque recommendation on the crank pinch bolts (flush mount bolts)…? I was under the impression these should be installed without much torque as to not pinch the bearings too much. Hence, one fell out while riding today and I ordered a new pair of titanium flush mount bolts from you today lol.
A small Profile sprocket, like a 28 tooth, has a different spline set up than a larger sprocket, like a 38 tooth. On smaller sprocket the spline insert in the center is flush on the shiny side with the profile imprint engraving etc., on the bigger sprocket the flush side is on the flat side, opposite of the side with the engraving and recess etc.. Which which side goes to the inside versus outside? Can’t find this anywhere really. There is a dearth of photos on the web and nothing on your website. Why? Confusing.
There are a TON of little things that go into installing and adjusting cranks perfectly....and much more when it involves a spline drive sprocket. Not discussing those things and having the camera 10' away from the bike doesn't lend well to learning how to install cranks with spline drive. I say this because I'm going through this now and I was hopeful this video would help me....but it didn't.
There's more than one comment about grease. I've been using profile cranks since 1998 and my word of advice is do not use any grease on the spindle bolts, they will most likely back out. It's OK to use grease on the spindle splines but it's not mandatory. Not all spindles are created equal imo. Some crank arms fit tight and some not soo much, even brand new. For tight fitting arms def use a little bit of grease on the spindle. If you can slide the arm on without grease than it's not necessary to grease the splines.
The removal/install tool supplied with these cranks did not work for me without modification. They do not get the sprocket/crank arm far enough onto the splines. My bike is standard sizing with 68mm American shell, so with the cups it measures exactly 73mm wide outside to outside, which is a standard BMX size. The install tool only got the crank arm on about halfway. At this point, I could have starting beating it with a mallet, but decided to be smarter than that. I found a metal spacer that worked perfectly. I had just cut 3/4" off the top of my 1 1/8" fork steerer tube, and used that as a spacer between the sleeve piece that comes with install tool. It worked perfectly, thank goodness. Reading some of the comments here, I feel for people who spent $250 on these cranks and can't get them installed properly. Profile should include a spacer like the one I had, or make the sleeve wider by about an inch. Another tip is that a 22mm socket (the big ones for a torque wrench) worked perfectly as a punch to get the sprocket started on the spindle. Cheers
And don't forget to align your chainline with BB spacers on the drive side. Push the sprocket on the right amount so you have an equal amount of stickout left for both cranks. Profile sprockets are asymmetrical and I have yet to see any recommendations for which way to run them. Profile, what's the good word?
The sprockets make APPEAR asymmetrical in DESIGN, but in practice, they are perfectly round. You can run something like one of our spline drive sprockets wherever you like on the spindle!
Profile Racing thanks for clarifying that. By heating I only meant a gentle bask in sunlight. Please, nobody wreck your parts with a blowtorch. Ten seconds of scrubbing with a brass brush and a dab of grease should be all it takes... but remember that the installer tool can run out of threads before the crank is all the way on. If it bottoms out, add washers or spare BB spacers to the tool.
Good question! He means that the end of your SPINDLE should be about 1/16" to 1/8" of an inch from the end of the crank arm spindle boss. In other words, use spacers on the spindle to make sure that you arms sit on the spindle correctly when they are tightened down. Correctly means that when you look inside the arm boss and see the spindle, there should be a little bit of room between the end of the spindle before it would stick out of the arm away from the bike! If that doesn't make sense shoot us an email: matt@profileracing.com
Can you please do another video on bb removal and install. Euro-style bottom bracket 68mm outboard and inboard the pros and cons of both🤙. That would be awesome because it would answer slot and show slot of your quality designs !!!
Need your help !! I'm putting on the spindle to the spider gear first ... and I'm using a rubber mallet... I've managed to get the spindle to the edge of the spider gear but man it won't go through enough so I can place the drive side crank arm on.. do I keep on pounding away until it goes to a little bit?
well he used a set that was already installed and yes its hard but it only took me 5 pound it in after that it was easy. not saying anyone did use any but lubricant helped with the process I of course used a handful of course I wiped it all off once I noticed that I was getting near the next lhase
You still have not sent me printed out instructions. Here I am building my bottom bracket and I have to look at this video to figure out what the hell to do. Never going to buy your cranks again if you do not send me a step by step on and off instruction manual. Every other company that makes mechanical things sends instructions. How are y'all different?
Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Our website is actually the place with step-by-step instructions. Typically, higher end after market stuff (like what we make/sell) is for 1. People who already know how to install it OR 2. People who then have professionals at a Bike Shop install it. These videos are meant to help everyone else, but, if they are not enough, you may have to ask for help. BUT, try this link for future issues with other parts: www.profileracing.com/category/how-tos/
Profile sucks now before they would last forever but now their hubs and cranks have suffered a lot they snap way to fast and easy my last pair of cranks lasted me a year before they snapped now I have thunderbolts from odyssey 2 years still running strong
Sorry to hear that man. Our team dudes and our customers are usually pretty darn happy with our stuff. If you have some specific issues, please email us direct and we can try to help you out. Shane@profileracing.com for warranty and product issues!
First off lets use some copper grease, second the spline drives DO NOT go in that easy, 3rd we don't all have that special tool. Can you guys make a more helpful video for the noobs?
If the splines are too tight you run the risk of stripping the installation tool or the internal spindle threads. Clean everything well. Scrub the splines thoroughly with a wire brush. Use plenty of grease on the splines and threads.
This video was shot on cranks that had already been assembled before. Fresh cranks will be STUPID TIGHT. You might even consider freezing the spindle and gently heating the crank.
For the most part, you are 100% correct, but PLEASE do not heat any of our parts up. If it is warm enough to change the metal's properties for install, it is warm enough to weaken the metal and welds! Good prep, using the tools, and grease are the way to go, like you said!
I'm glad you mentioned it .that's 3 things I chould do , to make the job easier. I'm working on a new set of GT cranks, I will start by cleaning the spindle and putting the spindle in the fridge and cranks in the sun. I'm getting a brand new set of fat profiles. I think cleaning the splines is all I need, plus it comes with a tool, I didn't have the tool .
@Scott Oyster I feel a bit ripped off. It's very difficult to do this with new cranks because they fit extremely tigh.. In the end you spoil your tools, scratches on the cranks, dirty hands, sweat, anger and a lot of money wasted. Nothing is cheap in profile, including shipping, taxes etc, the price is not proportional to the lack of information or help after buying and trying to install. I think that the ego pushes me to buy their products, which honestly are becoming a constant headache.
I don't regret buying the hubset years ago, but I just bought a second titanium spindle and I almost cried when I saw and understood that now another small part is missing and it costs 15 times less than shipping. It's crazy, as you say they are an empire and they don't really care about the user.
I will not buy these products again.
Thank you for your comment, it is very brave.
Thank you. There’s a set halfway installed in my garage from earlier today (I knew it was going to be a pain) but foolishly didn’t greese them nvm wire brush and clean
Torque recommendation on the crank pinch bolts (flush mount bolts)…? I was under the impression these should be installed without much torque as to not pinch the bearings too much. Hence, one fell out while riding today and I ordered a new pair of titanium flush mount bolts from you today lol.
No grease on such beautiful cranks I’m screaming!
Yeah but it is still not the end of the world
@@johnjachens7103 yea its the end of the lifespan on the cranks 😅😭😭
What tool do you use? Do you have a link to buy it?
Standard 19mm GDH tool. Hope that helps?
A small Profile sprocket, like a 28 tooth, has a different spline set up than a larger sprocket, like a 38 tooth. On smaller sprocket the spline insert in the center is flush on the shiny side with the profile imprint engraving etc., on the bigger sprocket the flush side is on the flat side, opposite of the side with the engraving and recess etc.. Which which side goes to the inside versus outside? Can’t find this anywhere really. There is a dearth of photos on the web and nothing on your website. Why? Confusing.
There are a TON of little things that go into installing and adjusting cranks perfectly....and much more when it involves a spline drive sprocket. Not discussing those things and having the camera 10' away from the bike doesn't lend well to learning how to install cranks with spline drive. I say this because I'm going through this now and I was hopeful this video would help me....but it didn't.
There's more than one comment about grease. I've been using profile cranks since 1998 and my word of advice is do not use any grease on the spindle bolts, they will most likely back out. It's OK to use grease on the spindle splines but it's not mandatory. Not all spindles are created equal imo. Some crank arms fit tight and some not soo much, even brand new. For tight fitting arms def use a little bit of grease on the spindle. If you can slide the arm on without grease than it's not necessary to grease the splines.
Can the spline drive sprockets be used on both right and left side drive? Have a 23T
They can!
The removal/install tool supplied with these cranks did not work for me without modification. They do not get the sprocket/crank arm far enough onto the splines. My bike is standard sizing with 68mm American shell, so with the cups it measures exactly 73mm wide outside to outside, which is a standard BMX size. The install tool only got the crank arm on about halfway. At this point, I could have starting beating it with a mallet, but decided to be smarter than that. I found a metal spacer that worked perfectly. I had just cut 3/4" off the top of my 1 1/8" fork steerer tube, and used that as a spacer between the sleeve piece that comes with install tool. It worked perfectly, thank goodness. Reading some of the comments here, I feel for people who spent $250 on these cranks and can't get them installed properly. Profile should include a spacer like the one I had, or make the sleeve wider by about an inch. Another tip is that a 22mm socket (the big ones for a torque wrench) worked perfectly as a punch to get the sprocket started on the spindle. Cheers
And don't forget to align your chainline with BB spacers on the drive side. Push the sprocket on the right amount so you have an equal amount of stickout left for both cranks.
Profile sprockets are asymmetrical and I have yet to see any recommendations for which way to run them. Profile, what's the good word?
The sprockets make APPEAR asymmetrical in DESIGN, but in practice, they are perfectly round. You can run something like one of our spline drive sprockets wherever you like on the spindle!
Profile Racing thanks for clarifying that. By heating I only meant a gentle bask in sunlight. Please, nobody wreck your parts with a blowtorch. Ten seconds of scrubbing with a brass brush and a dab of grease should be all it takes... but remember that the installer tool can run out of threads before the crank is all the way on. If it bottoms out, add washers or spare BB spacers to the tool.
About to install my new profile cranks! At 2:25 what exactly does Gus mean by, "The splines should be about 1/16" from coming through" ?
Good question! He means that the end of your SPINDLE should be about 1/16" to 1/8" of an inch from the end of the crank arm spindle boss. In other words, use spacers on the spindle to make sure that you arms sit on the spindle correctly when they are tightened down. Correctly means that when you look inside the arm boss and see the spindle, there should be a little bit of room between the end of the spindle before it would stick out of the arm away from the bike! If that doesn't make sense shoot us an email: matt@profileracing.com
Can you please do another video on bb removal and install. Euro-style bottom bracket 68mm outboard and inboard the pros and cons of both🤙. That would be awesome because it would answer slot and show slot of your quality designs !!!
Noted!!!
Need your help !! I'm putting on the spindle to the spider gear first ... and I'm using a rubber mallet... I've managed to get the spindle to the edge of the spider gear but man it won't go through enough so I can place the drive side crank arm on.. do I keep on pounding away until it goes to a little bit?
I hope you solved this a year ago! :) But for future reference, we have more help here: www.profileracing.com/category/how-tos/
Best cranks ever.
Cant get enough of these....
Grease?
Yes, in real world install!
Have them on my ATF 24.
Can we switch it to Left side drive?
You would just need an LHD left arm and you're good to go. You can use the existing RHD arm from the set. Hope that helps?
What size allen/hex key does the crank's pinch-bolt use?
Matt Rousselle none, its a 48 spline crank, it doesnt need pinch bolts
6mm
*_CAN YOU CONVERT TO SHIMANO BOTTOM BRACKET_* ??
Are we supposed to use grease?
Yes on everything apart from brake pads 😂
wrench size?
Depends on the type of bolt you order, but usually 6mm or 8mm.
Profile Racing
no!
Is the size of the box wrench used to close the crank tool 1 inch?
@@tyo679 It is! 1 inch! Or a big adjustable.
well he used a set that was already installed and yes its hard but it only took me 5 pound it in after that it was easy. not saying anyone did use any but lubricant helped with the process I of course used a handful of course I wiped it all off once I noticed that I was getting near the next lhase
We include install tools to make sure its not a total nightmare! We also have how-to-install videos to help! :)
why not also show us how to remove the sprocket off the spindle? those damn spline drive sprockets are a B to remove.
We do have a tutorial on that as well! You can find more than you need right here: www.profileracing.com/support/
i bet those cranks are still runnimg
You still have not sent me printed out instructions. Here I am building my bottom bracket and I have to look at this video to figure out what the hell to do. Never going to buy your cranks again if you do not send me a step by step on and off instruction manual. Every other company that makes mechanical things sends instructions. How are y'all different?
Lol seriously? Hopefully you figured it out by now but if u didn't let me know what you need help with.
Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Our website is actually the place with step-by-step instructions. Typically, higher end after market stuff (like what we make/sell) is for 1. People who already know how to install it OR 2. People who then have professionals at a Bike Shop install it. These videos are meant to help everyone else, but, if they are not enough, you may have to ask for help. BUT, try this link for future issues with other parts: www.profileracing.com/category/how-tos/
Profile sucks now before they would last forever but now their hubs and cranks have suffered a lot they snap way to fast and easy my last pair of cranks lasted me a year before they snapped now I have thunderbolts from odyssey 2 years still running strong
Sorry to hear that man. Our team dudes and our customers are usually pretty darn happy with our stuff. If you have some specific issues, please email us direct and we can try to help you out. Shane@profileracing.com for warranty and product issues!
You're tripping Edgar.
yea light tap lol
These guys are like f_ck grease brah 😐
He hides the work most of the time and rushes through the job also does not show where the spacers/washers go etc...poor effort profile racing :(
Sorry to hear this was unhelpful, what can we help you with?
J
Aaq
First off lets use some copper grease, second the spline drives DO NOT go in that easy, 3rd we don't all have that special tool. Can you guys make a more helpful video for the noobs?
www.profileracing.com/category/how-tos/