Hello everyone, Be sure to check out the update on the AOS35 build where I tried to implement your suggestions: th-cam.com/video/-DtdoL0nZLI/w-d-xo.html Thank you very much for your constructive tips, especially regarding the fact that I used too little flux when soldering.
I know this is a lame question but where did you get the Cable Channels for the arms? I cant seem to find them and need one for a Quad Repair. BTW, freaking FANTASTIC vid, subscribed! You have motivated me to try my 1st build.
Thanks for the comment! There’s no such thing as a lame question! 😊 The cable channels came with my frame, but you can also use tape for repairs. I couldn’t find the channels separately either. I bought my wire stripper on Amazon, and it’s been great. I'm glad I could motivate you, and thanks for subscribing!
Bro, everything is fine, but for the soldering part, include more flux and the finish of the soldering should be round mirror finish, like you need to be able to see your face in it. cover more surface area as possible and immerse the wire conductor as much as possible into the solder.
Many thanks for your tips. Unfortunately, my solder joints really don't look that good. But I'll try again with more flux. Do I have to desolder the areas first, or can I simply apply more flux and re-solder?
@@fpv-geek You could add flux on the existing joint, and add some more lead. But for a clean build, remove all the solder joint and re tin then solder again with flux. Mr.steele has made a video specifically on this. it can clarify all of our doubts regarding soldering.
@@fpv-geekdude really, that solder was dry, it means you burned out all the flux that was in the tin, I would clean everything and do it from scratch, first I would use pasty flux and a desolating mesh to remove all the old tin, the most, I would clean it with isopropyl alcohol , I would apply the pasty flux and redo all the welding, believe me, the risk of short circuit or oxidation with this solder is much greater than doing the cleaning I mentioned and redoing the solder.
Hey, The official ELRS Website contains the following information about this: "ExpressLRS 2.4GHz can go over 40km at 250Hz 100mW on omnidirectional antennas with excellent LQI, or it can go 400m with less stellar LQI." Source: www.expresslrs.org/info/signal-health/ I can't say anything about altitude and speed as I don't have a GPS installed and at altitude you are limited by law to 120m anyway (In the EU. I don't know outside the EU). You really rarely reach this in freestyle. If the budget were unlimited, there are definitely better components that can be installed.
I have printed out the new antenna mount (link in the description). And I also cut out the lower part. If you preheat the tpu, then it is easier to push in the o3 antenna. Let me know if you need any further help.
@@fpv-geekI think there is a misunderstanding. You said:" I also ended up replacing the antenna because it was simply too long for mounting in the rear." What do mean by replacing the antenna.
What action camera would you recommend? I was thinking for the controller and headset using the dji v2 and remote controller 3 anything u recommend I do differently?
I am currently using the DJI Action 2. It is inexpensive, small and offers sufficient image quality. Have a look at my last videos, there is a freestyle flow video with the DJI Action 2. Do you already have the goggles and the controller? Then use them to get started. I got myself a Radiomaster Zorro and a DJI Integra to start with. Today, however, I would rather go for the Radiomaster Pocket as I find the form factor better.
Hey, nice video! Just one question though, what is the best website to buy FPV parts from within Europe? I’ve read that Banggood is an option as they started to collect VAT, but what is your opinion?
May I suggest the GNB 1500mah 120C lihv batteries? They weigh just 10 grams more than these ones in the video and are only 32 USD (28 Euro). Edit: just realized I sound like a bot 🤣
Haha, hey Bot 🤣 Are you flying with GNBs? I picked up some Ovonic 1000mAh for 13€ each. Can’t wait to see how long they last. Unfortunately, I already killed two of my CNHLs in a crash. So right now, I'm more into buying cheaper batteries instead of the pricey ones with better flight time and performance.
@@fpv-geek Yeah i honestly perfer the more expensive batteries just to get that extra flight time. Im spoiled by my chimera getting to fly 16km round trips to the top of volcanoes 🤣
This depends on the flight behavior. I get 2-3 minutes (freestyle). I have never tested the range of the DJI system or ELRS, but theoretically several kilometers.
Does this work with the DJI Goggles 3? I just bought an AVATA 2 combo 3 weeks ago, I'm planning on buying a freestyle drone later but idk what drones work with the Goggles 3
If we use DJI controller 2? Is all the same or something changes? Also, all cables and everything else comes with tbe kits or need to be bought separately? Many thanks.
I'm not very familiar with the DJI controller, but you won't need the ELRS receiver, and in Betaflight, you'll need to configure it to receive control signals from the air unit. By the way, this isn't a kit; I put these parts together based on my personal preferences. However, there are ready-made kits available for purchase.
@@fpv-geek i suggest you share the PID tuning in the description, there are lots of beginner like me who doesn’t t know how to PID tune, and it would be helpful for us if we are building the exact quad.
I can add my values in a few days. But one more disclaimer: the PID tuning only works if the components used (motors, stack, vtx, props, battery etc) are one-to-one identical. This also includes the action cam that I use, etc.
@@fpv-geekyes please share, its better for all the dummies out here, and your channel would grow faster if you could share all the steps in your next build video. And you earn a new subscriber today. ❤
Yes, I've been thinking about that these days too. I'm currently using the motors as beepers. But if the battery dies, a self-sufficient beeper would be better. Can you recommend the finder2?
This depends on the type of flight. For cruising, you can expect around 8-10 minutes. For aggressive freestyle, it's about 5 minutes. With a larger battery, like 1300mAh or 1500mAh, you might get a bit more flight time, but I prefer using multiple batteries and swapping them out frequently.
After a few flights I can confirm that I reach a maximum of 3:30 in freestyle, more like 3m. If you only hover, then maybe 4-5m. But I never really tried to get the maximum out of it. (Both 1000-1100mah) but that's enough for me, I have no problem changing the battery more often.
Hey man. I know there is a ton of information online on what to buy when getting into FPV. I live in Germany too. I have a budget of 1.5 - 2k. What would you recoomend me to buy (also equipment to build)?
Want to get started with a 5-inch FPV drone? There are ready-made sets to buy. You'll get there with your budget. Otherwise, look for a Tinywhoop set. Like the Cetus X from BetaFPV. That's what I started with. I also have a crash compilation on my channel of this drone. Such sets are available for around 300-400€. They're all good for getting started in the hobby ☺ If you have any questions, just let me know.
@@fpv-geek For premium frames The Apex evo 5inch for the 03 is one of the best and Quadmula siren f5 split, rotor village rvs mopax frame and flyfish volador 5 inch you also need to put a better stack in your build the t-motor velox f7 stack is a very good stack or a foxeer reaper stack even the new cheaper one is much better than the speedybee stacks
@@fpv-geek As far as your motors go i have six broken ones already so chris rosser must be getting paid to tell you theses motors are good i have emax eco motors that hold up better than thoses for premium t-motor f40's and rcin power motors are the best by far get some and you will see what i mean.
Thank you very much for your advice. I actually had the Apex Evo on my list too. So would I have been better off buying that one? The T-Motor Velox Stack is not that expensive. 🤔 I think I'll be upgrading soon.
he does NOT deserve only 430 subcribers, he makes perfect vids, please support him!
Thank you very much!
such comments are the best payment!
Subscribed!
6S!!!! That is crazy insane.
😃
Hello everyone,
Be sure to check out the update on the AOS35 build where I tried to implement your suggestions: th-cam.com/video/-DtdoL0nZLI/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much for your constructive tips, especially regarding the fact that I used too little flux when soldering.
Does dead cat frame have any negatives for FPV freestyle? I always thought those frames were for cinematics mostly? Thoughts?
I haven't noticed much difference so far. There are many videos here on TH-cam that go into this in detail.
i like your video, very detail! subscribed.
Thank you very much!
would be great if you mentioned what screws you use each time
Thanks for your feedback. I will include it in the next video
I know this is a lame question but where did you get the Cable Channels for the arms? I cant seem to find them and need one for a Quad Repair. BTW, freaking FANTASTIC vid, subscribed! You have motivated me to try my 1st build.
And that wire cutter too :)
Thanks for the comment! There’s no such thing as a lame question! 😊 The cable channels came with my frame, but you can also use tape for repairs. I couldn’t find the channels separately either. I bought my wire stripper on Amazon, and it’s been great. I'm glad I could motivate you, and thanks for subscribing!
Bro, everything is fine, but for the soldering part, include more flux and the finish of the soldering should be round mirror finish, like you need to be able to see your face in it. cover more surface area as possible and immerse the wire conductor as much as possible into the solder.
Many thanks for your tips.
Unfortunately, my solder joints really don't look that good. But I'll try again with more flux. Do I have to desolder the areas first, or can I simply apply more flux and re-solder?
@@fpv-geek You could add flux on the existing joint, and add some more lead.
But for a clean build, remove all the solder joint and re tin then solder again with flux. Mr.steele has made a video specifically on this. it can clarify all of our doubts regarding soldering.
@@lokaero Many thanks for your tips. I will try to re-solder it
@@fpv-geekdude really, that solder was dry, it means you burned out all the flux that was in the tin, I would clean everything and do it from scratch, first I would use pasty flux and a desolating mesh to remove all the old tin, the most, I would clean it with isopropyl alcohol , I would apply the pasty flux and redo all the welding, believe me, the risk of short circuit or oxidation with this solder is much greater than doing the cleaning I mentioned and redoing the solder.
Hey, thanks for your tips. I have already desoldered all the solder joints and re-soldered them again with more flux.
Do you know his longest control distance and altitude and the fastest speed?
If the budget is unlimited, is this the best fpv now?
Hey,
The official ELRS Website contains the following information about this:
"ExpressLRS 2.4GHz can go over 40km at 250Hz 100mW on omnidirectional antennas with excellent LQI, or it can go 400m with less stellar LQI."
Source: www.expresslrs.org/info/signal-health/
I can't say anything about altitude and speed as I don't have a GPS installed and at altitude you are limited by law to 120m anyway (In the EU. I don't know outside the EU). You really rarely reach this in freestyle.
If the budget were unlimited, there are definitely better components that can be installed.
Do you need the elrs nano receiver? I thought the dji air unit is a receiver. Also im going to use the dji controller and goggles
I don't have a DJI controller, I use ELRS with my copters, so I need the receiver
@@fpv-geek So if im using the dji controller with i dont need the receiver
@@LeXro6 yes
07:09 Hey Dude, how did you replace the antenna? I have the exact same issue with my drone.
Thanks in advance
I have printed out the new antenna mount (link in the description). And I also cut out the lower part. If you preheat the tpu, then it is easier to push in the o3 antenna.
Let me know if you need any further help.
@@fpv-geekI think there is a misunderstanding. You said:" I also ended up replacing the antenna because it was simply too long for mounting in the rear." What do mean by replacing the antenna.
Ah, yes. I replaced the long ELRS antenna with a shorter one.
@@fpv-geek ah, i thought you were talking about the antenna of the air unit. So you smushed it in, like you showed?
Exactly. The O3 antenna goes in well with this mount. If you fit a shorter mount, then it could be that the original O3 antenna is too long.
u got a sub! Really nice build!
Thanks, man. Comments like these motivate me to create more content.
What action camera would you recommend? I was thinking for the controller and headset using the dji v2 and remote controller 3 anything u recommend I do differently?
I am currently using the DJI Action 2. It is inexpensive, small and offers sufficient image quality. Have a look at my last videos, there is a freestyle flow video with the DJI Action 2.
Do you already have the goggles and the controller? Then use them to get started. I got myself a Radiomaster Zorro and a DJI Integra to start with. Today, however, I would rather go for the Radiomaster Pocket as I find the form factor better.
@fpv-geek No at the moment only the headset still need to pick a controller. For the ELRS receiver since I am not in Europe can I use the FCC version?
@@MaybeReal-s2y Yes, outside the EU you don't need the LBT version, as far as I know.
Great build!
Thank you!
Which goggles did you used with dji o3 unit
DJI Integra
Good job!
Thank you 🤩
Great build, subbed :]
Thank you :-)
Hey, nice video! Just one question though, what is the best website to buy FPV parts from within Europe? I’ve read that Banggood is an option as they started to collect VAT, but what is your opinion?
Thank you.
I order my items from different stores. But mainly here: drone-fpv-racer
May I suggest the GNB 1500mah 120C lihv batteries? They weigh just 10 grams more than these ones in the video and are only 32 USD (28 Euro).
Edit: just realized I sound like a bot 🤣
Haha, hey Bot 🤣
Are you flying with GNBs?
I picked up some Ovonic 1000mAh for 13€ each. Can’t wait to see how long they last. Unfortunately, I already killed two of my CNHLs in a crash. So right now, I'm more into buying cheaper batteries instead of the pricey ones with better flight time and performance.
@@fpv-geek Yeah i honestly perfer the more expensive batteries just to get that extra flight time. Im spoiled by my chimera getting to fly 16km round trips to the top of volcanoes 🤣
enviable! I would love to do that too.
GREAT VIDEO MATE
Thank you ☺️
hello what is max flight time and max distance flight of this drone?
This depends on the flight behavior. I get 2-3 minutes (freestyle).
I have never tested the range of the DJI system or ELRS, but theoretically several kilometers.
What controller do you use? Also why did you choose DJI vs a different ecosystem?
I use a Radiomaster Zorro. I chose the DJI O3 because my other copters also use this system and I am satisfied with the quality.
How much did it cost total?
~550
Where can I order the 3D parts used in this build?
The red parts?
Great result ....
Thank you 🤩
id always recognise "calling for you" by venjent, or any of his songs for that matter😂
I love that song. 🎵 🤩
d i need the elrs receiver if im using a dji remote
elrs receiver not necessary if you want to use the DJI controller
what controller do you use for this build
Radiomaster Zorro
@@fpv-geekthanks
the stl is different to your part, do you have the update version so it actually fits like your antenna mount?
The stl is the right one. What exactly does not fit?
I think I cut away a little to make it fit.
@@fpv-geek yeah you have to cut it a the bottom else it would not fit with the o3 vtx mount, but i justed edited it myself
Tap on a clip to paste it in the text box.🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
ok 🤔
i've never heard anyone say "em em" for millimeters before, is that really a thing? not hating, just thought it was odd
sometimes I wonder about myself 🙈
we always say em em where i live. we often say mike mike too. 'pass the 10 mike' popular callout for cars.
This quad carry an O3 antena but i use true rc patch antena with my goggles V2...will it create a peoblem?
I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think it's a problem.
Does this work with the DJI Goggles 3? I just bought an AVATA 2 combo 3 weeks ago, I'm planning on buying a freestyle drone later but idk what drones work with the Goggles 3
Unfortunately I don't know, I use the Integra.
Won't work with goggles 3 at the moment, possible with future firmware updates it will
Many thanks for the tip.
@@fpv-geek The DJI Goggles 3 now works with the O3 Air unit
great video love you sir from bangladesh.
i just want to how do i can buy a used Radiomaster boxer radio? very cheap price?
Thank you very much. You can have a look on ebay to see if there are any available.
I want one so bad lol
@@ExuItah Don't you have one yet?
@fpv-geek nah but I'm looking into one though
@@ExuItah Awesome hobby! Better start yesterday
I built the same drone... But can i know about the tuning u did on this drone???
But of course. I spent many hours tuning the copter with PIDToolbox. What exactly do you want to know? Did you use the same motors and flight stack?
@@fpv-geek can i get your insta id?
Yes, you can follow my link on my channel
If we use DJI controller 2?
Is all the same or something changes? Also, all cables and everything else comes with tbe kits or need to be bought separately? Many thanks.
I'm not very familiar with the DJI controller, but you won't need the ELRS receiver, and in Betaflight, you'll need to configure it to receive control signals from the air unit. By the way, this isn't a kit; I put these parts together based on my personal preferences. However, there are ready-made kits available for purchase.
Do you have links to the parts?
I ordered the parts from different stores, do you need the link for a specific part?
The stores are:
n-factory.de
drone-fpv-racer.com
@@fpv-geek no I think I can find them thank you
galaxy props look better imo
Thank you
No PID tuning?
Not in this video. But I tuned the copter for a long time until I liked it.
@@fpv-geek i suggest you share the PID tuning in the description, there are lots of beginner like me who doesn’t t know how to PID tune, and it would be helpful for us if we are building the exact quad.
I can add my values in a few days.
But one more disclaimer: the PID tuning only works if the components used (motors, stack, vtx, props, battery etc) are one-to-one identical. This also includes the action cam that I use, etc.
@@fpv-geekyes please share, its better for all the dummies out here, and your channel would grow faster if you could share all the steps in your next build video. And you earn a new subscriber today. ❤
@@Hmingmawia_Ralte Hey, I have added the PID values to the video description
how about the finder?
What exactly do you mean?
@@fpv-geek maybe can have this "vifly finder2" ,so that can find your fpv when missing
Yes, I've been thinking about that these days too. I'm currently using the motors as beepers. But if the battery dies, a self-sufficient beeper would be better. Can you recommend the finder2?
Can you give the back side tpu design
Sure. I updated the description with a link to thingiverse ☺️
Where is capasitor?
Take a look from 03:19
@fpv-geek Thank you. I didn't notice how you hid it))
@@simple0b The capacitor is fixed to the frame under the XT60 cables
Can you tell me what use remote control for fly
I use the radiomaster zorro
@@fpv-geekplease tell me can i use remote jumper v2
It depends on your receiver module. which module do you use?
@@fpv-geek jumper v2 t-litle 4 in 1
And which RX module is in your copter?
Why no capacitor
there is a capacitor (03:15)
Flight time???
This depends on the type of flight. For cruising, you can expect around 8-10 minutes. For aggressive freestyle, it's about 5 minutes. With a larger battery, like 1300mAh or 1500mAh, you might get a bit more flight time, but I prefer using multiple batteries and swapping them out frequently.
10m fligh time? Sounds very unrealistic
After a few flights I can confirm that I reach a maximum of 3:30 in freestyle, more like 3m.
If you only hover, then maybe 4-5m. But I never really tried to get the maximum out of it. (Both 1000-1100mah)
but that's enough for me, I have no problem changing the battery more often.
Hey man. I know there is a ton of information online on what to buy when getting into FPV. I live in Germany too. I have a budget of 1.5 - 2k. What would you recoomend me to buy (also equipment to build)?
Want to get started with a 5-inch FPV drone? There are ready-made sets to buy. You'll get there with your budget.
Otherwise, look for a Tinywhoop set. Like the Cetus X from BetaFPV. That's what I started with. I also have a crash compilation on my channel of this drone.
Such sets are available for around 300-400€. They're all good for getting started in the hobby ☺
If you have any questions, just let me know.
your solder joints look very brittle and bad tho. you need flux and way more solder
Thanks for the tip. You're right. I've corrected it with more flux 🙂
Dude Flux
You mean soldering?
@@fpv-geek yes, for the solder, everything else looks great though. thanks for the video :)
Thank you!
Yes, I have already ordered flux and will re-solder it. Thanks for your tips.
Most of the soldiering wires containing flux, so it's not like very necessary
$$ ?❤😊
What do you mean?
"ultimate freestyle build " while having a dji 03 on a deadcat frame and a variable tilt mount at the font is a crazy thing to say lmfaooo
Would you say that an X-frame makes that much difference? And what's the problem with the O3 and a variable tilt mount?
Its not a ultimate 5inch with velox motors and the speedybee stack is the budget one and the frame is mid quality, not ultimate buy good budget build.
With the Velox motors I trusted Chris Rosser in terms of price/performance.
Can you recommend another frame that I could have a look at?
@@fpv-geek For premium frames The Apex evo 5inch for the 03 is one of the best and Quadmula siren f5 split, rotor village rvs mopax frame and flyfish volador 5 inch you also need to put a better stack in your build the t-motor velox f7 stack is a very good stack or a foxeer reaper stack even the new cheaper one is much better than the speedybee stacks
@@fpv-geek As far as your motors go i have six broken ones already so chris rosser must be getting paid to tell you theses motors are good i have emax eco motors that hold up better than thoses for premium t-motor f40's and rcin power motors are the best by far get some and you will see what i mean.
Thank you very much for your advice. I actually had the Apex Evo on my list too. So would I have been better off buying that one?
The T-Motor Velox Stack is not that expensive. 🤔 I think I'll be upgrading soon.
@@fpv-geek yeah much better off with the evo frame and t-motor stack
Horrible soldering bro.... sorry.
Thank you for your honesty :-D I know you're right. I've improved it by now if you see my newer videos.