I’m so glad someone recommended your channel to me. Not only are you a phenomenal rider, but one of the few channels i watch 100% of the videos because they are so well done. 🤘🏻
Great video. To be honest I would have found it easier to understand if you would have split the different settings up by 1-9 as that's how Rocky Mountain does it.
"RM moved the Ride 9 chip from the top of the shock to the bottom and re-numbered in positions. In the 2018 bikes the positions go from to slackest, lowest, and most progressive in Position 1 to steepest, highest, least progressive in Position 9."
For those asking what Ride9 positions he was in it goes from lowest to highest down in progression so: Slack/progressive = 1 Slack/neutral = 2 Slack/regressive = 3 Neutral/progressive = 4 Neutral/neutral = 5 Neutral/regressive = 6 Steep/progressive = 7 Steep/neutral = 8 Steep/regressive = 9
But he said his favourite is neutral geometry progressive (on the second run) and thats not why his show in the video(second run regressive neutral) ... what im missing?
I had to edit this comment as I neglected to mention something previously. What is interesting here is that Rocky Mountain changed the position of the chip from the older version bikes to the newer version of bikes. (I did not know this when I first watched video and commented.) My bike has the chip on the top portion of the rear shock closer to the front of the bike. The newer bikes have the chip on the lower portion of the bike closer to the rear of the bike. With that in mind: the positions on the grid have different effects. So be aware, and pay attention to the chip position on your specific bike. Newer bikes (2018 and newer like in the video above have the chip closer to the rear tire), the grid is like this: 3 6 9 2 5 8 1 4 7 -positions 1,2,3 are for slacker geometry which can be better for downhill but with less responsive steering -positions 3,6,9 are for heavier riders and a more progressive stroke -positions 7,8,9 are better for steeper geometry for climbing and traction while climbing with quicker turning. -positions 1,4,7 are for lighter riders and a more linear stroke of the rear shock. -position 5 is neutral all around. Older bikes like mine (pre 2018 with the chip closer to the front of the bike), the grid is still like this: 3 6 9 2 5 8 1 4 7 However: -positions 1,2,3 are better for steeper geometry for climbing and traction while climbing with quicker turning. -positions 3,6,9 are for lighter riders and a more linear stroke of the rear shock. -positions 7,8,9 are for slacker geometry which can be better for downhill but with less responsive steering -positions 1,4,7 are for heavier riders and a more progressive stroke -position 5 is neutral all around. So, the runs in Jeff's video would look like this: Run 1: Neutral /neutral: Run 2: Neutral/regressive: Run 3: Neutral/progressive: (this was his favourite setting and what he went back to on his final run. When he said his favourite was his "2nd setting", he meant his 3rd run, after having made the "2nd" adjustment) Run 4: Steep/progressive: Run 5: Steep/neutral: Run 6: Steep/regressive: Run 7: Slack/regressive: Run 8: Slack/neutral: Run 9: Slack/progressive: Run 10: back to his favourite which was run 3 or his 2nd adjustment from his neutral/neutral starting position. Runs 4, 5, and 6 he talked about twitchy steering or light steering, because all 3 runs were in positions 7,8, and 9 based on 2018 and newer chip position: (more of a cross country geometry). He liked climbing uphill best for these 3 positions. Probably the best place to start is to do what Jeff did. The whole point of his video is for the rider to start somewhere and experiment. You may find different positions for different applications. Climbing vs. screaming downhill. Enjoy the ride.
@@brunohd4254 Yes. I didn't catch the different positions of the chip at first with respect to older vs newer models. I have the older version, and could not tell by the video at first that Jeff had the newer version. There was only a split second where you can tell he is working closer to the rear of the bike. Hopefully, my comment above will help people regardless of what model they have. It can be confusing for many people. Even going to the website you have included, (which I did earlier) not everyone will notice their chip is in a different spot (like I didn't), and confusion can be the result. I tried to be as clear as possible. Cheers.
My Spartan has it and I have genuinely used it. It's a large frame but still runs (well, ran. It's a 2016. They improved the reach) a little short for a large. I upped the Lyrik to a 180, which slacked the head angle a bit then I switched it to the "high" setting and picked up a bit of reach at what the head angle used to be on low. Definitely not a drastic difference, but enough to notice.
Due to my riding environment, my adjustable frames have always stayed in the highest position and I have NEVER put them in the low. I just increase my fork 10mm longer to get more BB height.
This was my 3rd summer on my 2018 capra 29. I did the 1st year in low, 2nd in high, 3rd in low. In high mode it pedals better and turns sharper. In low it feels better on steeper and techy descents. Ive basically just matched it to the type of riding I seem to be focusing on that year. On paper, I want the new stumpy evo to be my next bike. I like how they are doing the adjustments at the headtube and rear axle instead of a flip chip. I think it's pretty neat to be able to make the head tube slacker and the seat tube steeper. It's usually both getting slacker.
Hey Jeff ! Really cool video, especially for the folks who just bought the Altitude! I just received my Altitude 2021 2 weeks ago. I actually bought the bike specifically because it had a lot of adjustments for the geo. I live in the eastern part of Canada where we have a lot of steep/rocky trails but we also ride cross-country/gravel trail often. I wanted a bigger bike to handle bike park style trails as I mainly ride those types of trails, but I didn't want to loose the maneuverability aspects of a steeper/smaller bike for my backyard cross-country type trails. I feel like Rocky Mountain did a really great job on designing the new Altitude and I think it's a great versatile all-mountain/enduro bike because of those adjustments.
Nicely done man! I agree the adjustments are awesome- especially for a Canadian. If you build a bike to shred the north shore, it'll be massive overkill in Ontario. While not the only thing to consider by any means, having the ability to adjust the bike for terrain that is so different is pretty cool. Congrats on your new rig!
I just got a new Stumpy Evo. After a few rides I’ve settled in on the steepest head angle and high bottom bracket. Seems to be the best for our trails here in Redding Ca.
I actually own this bike (also in rally spec). The adjustments work for me - but 9 different positions is a touch much. I usually ride Pos.2 with the short chainstays for the majority of enduro/downhill trails. I'll maintain this geometry position but throw the chainstay to the long position for bikepark stuff for more stability through berms and longer machine built sections. If im riding smaller tighter trails or more xc stuff it's nice to steepen the head angle to 65 (neutral) or more (pos.8) to handle tighter snappier turns as well as increase bottom bracket height for fewer pedal strikes - so farin these conditions i run the chainstays in the short position as well. But to your point I feel like I could run this bike in neutral for nearly every scenario and be fine - but that may have a bit more to do with the 38 up front in this spec. I feel like running a 36 you'd feel the need slightly more to steepen the HTA a bit in order to plow through rougher steeper stuff - but thats just a guess.
This is exactly what I’m all about when I see people testing things! Just being true and honest to ones abilities and what one truly wants from his or her setups! Killer video/riding/edit... all of the above ☝🏼🌲🚲💨❤️
Video idea - Logan swaps the setting and doesnt tell you. Eliminates placebo affect. You ride and comment how it felt without know what setting it was in. Love your non-E vids Jeff. keep killing it.
I adjust the geo of my Devinci to the low setting when going to Kingdom Trails, which is pure, rock-free flow. Rest of the time keep the bottom bracket high for rock clearance. Guessing geo adjustment matters less if you just manual the whole trail like JKW 😂
YES!!! Got you covered Ethan! Here's some riding with Jeff Cayley from back in 2017 up in Fernie, BC: th-cam.com/video/6rYACB7X_cg/w-d-xo.html Here's some riding with Jeff Lenosky: th-cam.com/video/GlHr21ZI-qc/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/FZ-sTh5k1AU/w-d-xo.html Lenosky's vids: th-cam.com/video/bpSQDF1eJM4/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/hVdePY-7_hg/w-d-xo.html
What about chainstay lenght? For me it was a game changer. The bike really impressed me when I put it on long chainstay. Different beast. It became FAST! I'm 6'2" and rode the XL, long chainstay makes so much sence for XL size.
I'm rolling an instinct here in the"Ham" so this was cool to see! Very surprised you're not feeling the slacker settings. I think as a lower skiled and older rider, I like having more tire out front, but I'm going to revisit neutral for sure. Keep up the great vids!
Would be great if you could reference Rockys number system for the different settings. If I’m right, your sweet spot was #4 right? What number would you go with for a long backcountry ride with huge ascents and long non technical single track descents?
I'd go with 9 (steep, linear) if you're light and 7 (steep, progressive) if you're heavier; 4 (neutral geometry, progressive) if you're really big. By the way the order Jeff tests in the video is 5, 6, 4, 7, 8, 9, 3, 2, 1 and 4 is his favourite.
Heck yes! GF just getting into MTB and she learning different of rising bars versus stack height and how it affects the reach especially on more slacked bikes
I saw an owl for the first time out the other day. Spent probably 5 minutes just looking at it. Fascinating bird, amazed how quiet it was when it flew away! Great video, great topic.
Totally- in the end I didn't want the video to be dedicated to solely this one bike, I wanted to inspire people to consider tweaking their own bikes and doing a little testing. I actually cut a lot of stuff talking about this bike, which I'll include when I post a ride report video. Thanks again for the note!
i have a 2020 Slayer 29 with Ride 4. it's the bomb. i would never have bought it if it didn't have the option of adjusting the geo. i ride the steepest setting on pure xc trails (which it sees a few times a year), the neutral setting most the time and the second slackest (setting 3) for our steepest trails or rides with the fastest descenders. it's brilliant and each setting matters. setting 3 is too slack for regular trail rides. so you might ask why i ride a Slayer on 'regular' trails at all. well it's so dam good and pedals so well no matter the trail or terrain, that i just got rid of my other bike. i can't get my head around the Ride 9 option, but Ride 4 is easy to use, understand and feel each difference.
I'm riding a canyon strive cf 5 from 2019. It has the "shapeshifter 2.0" feature, which let's me change geometry on the fly. Ive got ascend and descend mode. But unfortunately it is very flat where I live, so I mostly have it in ascend mode to make it easier to pedal. And I often forget to change while descending. But it does make a difference :-)
I was looking at getting the new Stumpjumper Evo, but figured I'd probably put in the lower setting and never change it. I saved myself $2200AUD and got a 2021 Norco Sight A2
I was thinking something similar, but my S4 Evo is still in order, still kicking it around. The 5-9 months before it would arrive has me seriously considering other options. The shop I’m ordering from has a large Bronson in stock that’s really tempting...
I had a Rocky Instinct and played with all 9 settings, different fork travel 140mm-160mm, 29er and Mullet set ups. I ended riding most often with 160mm fork in the steepest least progressive setting because it provided the best pedaling efficiency but still had decent downhill capability. I sold it, and bought a Rocky Instinct Powerplay. No compromise for pedaling efficiency. Run the bike with 160mm fork, 155mm rear (BC edition setting, slackest most progressive) and in a Mullet set up.
I have a question : I saw one person selling Rocky Mountain Instinct 999 mls from 2015. on local ad. He asks really low price for it, something like 2500€ (that is 2800-to3000$, depending on exchange..) Now, I like that bike, it is in like new condition... On the other hand, I don't like to buy old and outdated things... I'm wondering, with this adjustable geometry, is Rocky Mountain basically future proof??? Ok, bike had all XTR parts from 980 era - polished shiny stuf... But who cares, I liked that, still am. My only concern is that I'm basically buying 8 year old bike, 130mm travel - so trail bike... and I have Radon Slide Trail 9 2021 1500mm which I built from scratch, I only kept shock from stock parts.
I have a Rocky Altitude with the Ride 9 adjustment. I use my adjustments several times a year. I run mostly in the neutral-progressive spot but will slack it out for the park days. I have just over one full degree of HTA adjustment in the system. The Ride 9 was deff a selling point but not the only reason I bought it. LOVE My Rocky Altitude!!
Thanks for the most informative video yet on the Ride 9. I had to take notes the second time I watched it. Ive been riding the Instinct for 2 years. I ride lots in Tucson, which is super tech as you know. I also ride Sedona a bunch and would never miss a bike park. At 150 lbs I’m set in neutral/regressive (pos 6). As you pointed out, good for lighter folks. I’ve also removed volume spacers to try and get into the travel more. It seemed initially I wasn’t getting full travel with 30% sag. This bike does it all, coupled with some Enve 630s. It always has me riding above my skill level with an occasional sacrifice of skin and pride!!
2018 RM altitude. tried like 5 of the 9 settings over the years. I always come back to slack-progressive (position 9). ends up with the same approximate geometry as the 2021 medium with the 27.5 wheels in neutral-progressive.
Boom!!! Yeah mine feels so good now I don't really want to mess with it any more. In fact, I rode for 2 hrs this morning and didn't even think about the bike once- it was nice! Glad you've got your Altitude dialed in now too!!!
@@JeffKendallWeed 2016 RM altitude I have it in the steeper-progressive setting, trails here are a bit different then out west, but when I go out west I adjust to slacker, so yes its nice to have adjustable geo (really beneficial if you travel with your bike all over)
lol nope! Not gonna bother with riding the long chainstays much, my style is to jump a lot. The longer stays on the ebikes are a real buzzkill for me as it is.
My Radon Slide Trail 9 from 2021. have flip chip. It allows me to have two different types of geometry. I never used it though. I might fiddle with it now once I saw this... I'm planing to have my own garage or better yet bike-man-cave... Then I'll have space to operate on my bikes.
"RM moved the Ride 9 chip from the top of the shock to the bottom and re-numbered in positions. In the 2018 bikes the positions go from to slackest, lowest, and most progressive in Position 1 to steepest, highest, least progressive in Position 9."
In the end....everyone is gonna have their own style/weight/available terrain to ride.....etc... and all the variables won't be a one size fits all. For those that are around your weight and style and terrain etc... This will be helpful! 😀😇😎
Honestly Jeff, I think just raising folks' awareness that their bikes have these capabilities, and that they can completely transform the bike, is more important than anyone copying my own settings. Read through the comments here- a lot of folks never adjust their bikes!
@@JeffKendallWeed I saw that! Haha! You are right! I know the technology is probably not too far from having a mercury switch activated remote operated suspension system for those that don't wanna enjoy too much climbing or too much down hill. And to make it a very cushy ride without being too twitchy...but... I probably would not wanna ride it. (Couldn't afford it either way!) I did have a thought some time ago that for a dropper post with a weight sensing device in the seat padding that automatically drops to the lowest position and comes back up to the predetermined set height by the rider. (Using the same kinda memory that an automatic power seat in a car would have when had as an option) when the seat pad feels the rider wants to sit again it goes up...but not TOO fast. Don't wanna eject someone. Do you think a buttonless weight sensing dropper post would be too gimmicky or would it be something that would be the easiest to install with no need to drill holes in frames and routing cables and having levers to find/make room for? I have put little effort into making this happen as I am doing now..someone with more money than me pounded feet to a patent office and brought my idea to market. Oh well. I don't have the want to pay all that money and even to fight others for patent infringement by just one tiny change being a loophole to a "completely different product". I think it is a great idea! Thoughts? 😀😇😎
I have a RM ride 9 Instinct and I would have found your review a lot more helpful if you had mentioned the settings by numbers 1- through 9. Personally I started in 5 and have tried 4, 3 and 2. I preferred and found a big difference in 3 vs 4 and 5. Now I am riding in 2. 2 and 3 are better for steep and that is what almost everything is where I live. Thanks.
@@topspot4834 Thank you, and I should have mentioned that review was helpful and appreciated. In retrospect, I see my comment was a little blunt. Happy Trails.
There are absolutely no downsides to adjustability. If you look at where mountain bikes were born out of, dirt bikes then you understand that mountain bikes have been way behind until recently. If it comes down to a rider being lazy or ignorant about their own bike then that's their problem. 👍 I'm always amazed at how many apathetic Riders say they don't know what they're bike does or they don't know how something works when we live in an age of information overload. There are a few really good informational sites and video channels that explain what each brand of bike features and how to adjust it. Again if you are going to be that lazy and stupid well so be it...🤦♂️🤷♂️. The more adjustability the better the performance for the individual rider. 👍 all mountain bikes above a certain price point should have adjustable rake & trail, as well as wheelbase. It'll come to fruition it's just a matter of time.
Yes, YT Capra. It came in the low setting. I put it into the high setting and I've left it there. It helps the Capra to climb really well and it still descends great. I always have the seat post down when descending so I just leave the flip chip in the high setting.
I think most people are "set it & forget it" types. I've only ever had adjustability when I ran a fox talus fork years ago. Tried fiddling with it to see if it helped with the steepest climbs. But then never used it again. Like most things, adjustability might be cool for some folks, but a novelty at best for most.
My Banshee Rune V3 has adjustable geo. Built it up in "low" and never touched again. I think usually its placebo for most people. The biggest factor is probably pedal strikes.
I agree that folks get used to most anything. But the differences are pretty apparent! I rode in the slack/low and progressive position for a few days and really didn't like it- and the change made a HUGE improvement. On a side note, I've seen plenty of demo events where riders come back to return the bike and say they loved it- and I look down and notice the suspension was locked out! I ask if they adjusted the suspension or turned any knobs, and they;'ll say they didn't touch anything the whole time. Placebo is huge!
@@JeffKendallWeed I made this mistake in Lake Tahoe, bike shop mechanic locked out frame for me because I had a bit of a road climb from the town to the trails, had a great ride killer terrain realized frame was locked out on the road ride back down the mountain. Suspension is not totally dead when locked out.
NO! I'm saving up for a 27.5 non boost non ➕ enduro.... Now they are doing away with them? I guess I'll just keep my 26 inch stuff when my frame breaks and get a full suspension frame and swap my old school stuff to whatever it is I get.... 😀😇😎
@@neuvince I think Jeff's thinking of it as a square, not a diamond. Whether a 2018-2020 or a 2021+, that makes the left column slack, middle column neutral, and right column steep. Then the bottom row is most progressive and top row least. That'd make #3 slack linear, and #4 neutral progressive. That doesn't seem to be how RM think about it, and they may be right, as the chip rotates in action, complicating the situation. static.webshopapp.com/shops/193436/files/167352545/2018-ride9-altitude-en.pdf
Hey Jenson seems i was wrong, I got a 2018 and I was told 1.2.3 are the most progressive but looks from your video is 1.4.7 ? Does have the new Altitude the same flip chip behavior setting?
I ride an OG Canyon Sender, I have a -1 degree headtube cup, and a flip-chip on the chainstay which I run in the short config. I'm a short guy and prefer the poppability of shorter chainstays on this bike.
Progressive , Regressive I understand the terms but I'm confused on the ride 9 adjustments your in. It would be nice to know the # your in. Plus am I missing that the bike has a second adjustment other than the ride 9 flip chip for progressive and regressive. I cant find anything but the 9 positions on the ride 9 on RM sight. Good vid 👍
Thanks so much for this. I have a 2018 Altitude and have been trying to figure out the ride 9 for awhile. The Rocky Mountain documentation on it does not explain the progressive/neutral/regressive positions. They also don't do a good job of grouping 1-2-3 as slack 4-5-6 as neutral, 7-8-9 as steep. I like the steep setting for my riding. I could never figure out why setting 7 felt so much different till now. I'm light so seem to like the neutral regressive one too. One question. The geometry changes too. Did you also change stem/risers when going between the slack/neutral/steep positions?
I flip mine. Got some rocky tech in PA i like riding high, then i also ride places sometimes that's mostly flow and i adjust. Great option. Pivot does theirs well.
I've got a '19 Guerilla Gravity Shred Dogg / Megatrail (the difference is 2 different shocks with the longer shock == MT) and each has 2 positions. I like the long shock/longer travel and shorter shock/shorter travel modes best. That works out to 135mm and poppy vs 165mm and plush. The in betweens didn't really do it for me.
Manufacturers would do much better if they ensured sales staff helped new bike owners set their bike up before leaving the store and have one free return consultation.
I have trance x with 2 positions low and slack, or more upright position. I find this is great - I use in more upright position most of the time for my local flatter trails. If I go somewhere that is a little steeper the slacker position is better. I do think if thee is too much adjustability it would take the fun out of riding. Stop fiddling with your rig and just ride it I say!
My Devinci Spartan has the flip chip, but I've never had it in the hi configuration, always been in lo. Occasional pedal or crank strike in the tech but never hit the bash guard. I should play with it maybe, the hi setting might be more appropriate for most the local trails.
Cool video! If you change the geometry does the pressure in fork or damper need also some adjustment? Like you have more progression and this allows to ride with less pressure.
I have a 2020 yt jeffsy comp 29r. It has a flip chip from low to high. After watching this video I went for a ride in the high setting and really enjoyed the ride compared to stock settings. I didn’t think it would matter but it did. Thanks for the insight.
Just wanted to say thank you for doing this video. I have a 2020 Altitude and I am familiar with the Ride9 system. For whatever reason I did not even consider the progressive setting and how it would help to prevent me from blowing through my travel since I started riding a coil. Spring rate was correct, but just wanted a little more support. Neutral, Progressive Setting. It is perfect for my setup. Thanks again! Great Video!
I have an instinct, always been in neutral/neutral. Thinking of going steep/neutral since i do a lot of xc style riding in dallas, would go to neutral/progressive whenever doing enduro.
My Megatower has adjustments. I have settled into the short chainstay and steeper geo. When I get a mor me “down country” bike I think I’ll go long chain and slack. Does that make sense?
JB, the "wheels on the ground" folks tend to like the long chainstays. That along with folks who prefer to monster truck. Shorter travel bikes tend to do better when ridden with a more jumpy style, so the shorter stays are nice on those bikes.
Great video. I have a GT Sensor. Tried in low first and then settled on high. Less pedal strikes. Easier to manoeuvre in low speed sections and tight corners like switchbacks. A little more reach which helps fitment and gets a bit more weight on the front for steeper climbs. I feel that 66 degrees is slack enough for most trail riding and I don't even drop my post 1/2 as much as I did on my 69 degree old Norco Fluid. If I go somewhere with more serious downhill sections, it's nice to know that I have the ability to go back to low.
Evil Offering: Low/Xtra-low. I've always ridden it in X-low. Perfect for the fast/long/loose descents in Flag, but considering the higher setting for Sedona this winter. As far as progression goes, I just learned Evil doesn't recommend any spacers in the shock. I tested this and went from 0-3 incrementally. Turns out, they were right. With each spacer the bike felt worse. By #3 the rear wheel felt like it was bouncing off everything, harsh through the chop, and the pedal kickback was horrendous, so food for thought..
Thanks for the feedback man! Interesting that the bike is progressive enough that you don't need reducers. You are on the right track with a higher BB setting for Sedona IMO!
As with most things on the bike, I would rather "Set it and forget it". I had adjustable geo and never once felt the need to change it. On a side note, why do you even have a front wheel? :-)
Fair enough, I'd rather not monkey with set up on a daily basis, but I love that this bike can be tweaked if we decide to shuttle Darrington or ride Whistler. And if we are heading to Sedona, for instance, I could make it a little steeper for the flatter trails.
I think it has a place in todays scene, but we don't need 9 settings that the RM offers. A simple high and low seems to be sufficient IMO. PS - Which Kali helmet are you wearing?
I am confused. RMs guide says all positions are 'progressive' suspension, how did you get neutral and regressive? My trails are heavy on technical both up and down, so trying to figure which setting is best for climbing, but still have great control on the way down. Can you associate which setting you used for each run?
I think Jeff means "relatively regressive", i.e. less progressive. Keep in mind this is just the linkage setup and your shock makes a big difference in how progressive it's gonna feel.
Learn more about the Rocky Mountain Altitude here at Jenson USA via my affiliate link: bit.ly/RockyMountainAltitudeatJensonUSAjkw
I’m so glad someone recommended your channel to me. Not only are you a phenomenal rider, but one of the few channels i watch 100% of the videos because they are so well done. 🤘🏻
Great video. To be honest I would have found it easier to understand if you would have split the different settings up by 1-9 as that's how Rocky Mountain does it.
yeah same for me
Would you be willing to add 1-9 to this video? It would be amazing!
"RM moved the Ride 9 chip from the top of the shock to the bottom and re-numbered in positions. In the 2018 bikes the positions go from to slackest, lowest, and most progressive in Position 1 to steepest, highest, least progressive in Position 9."
For those asking what Ride9 positions he was in it goes from lowest to highest down in progression so:
Slack/progressive = 1
Slack/neutral = 2
Slack/regressive = 3
Neutral/progressive = 4
Neutral/neutral = 5
Neutral/regressive = 6
Steep/progressive = 7
Steep/neutral = 8
Steep/regressive = 9
But he said his favourite is neutral geometry progressive (on the second run) and thats not why his show in the video(second run regressive neutral) ... what im missing?
I had to edit this comment as I neglected to mention something previously. What is interesting here is that Rocky Mountain changed the position of the chip from the older version bikes to the newer version of bikes. (I did not know this when I first watched video and commented.) My bike has the chip on the top portion of the rear shock closer to the front of the bike. The newer bikes have the chip on the lower portion of the bike closer to the rear of the bike. With that in mind: the positions on the grid have different effects. So be aware, and pay attention to the chip position on your specific bike.
Newer bikes (2018 and newer like in the video above have the chip closer to the rear tire), the grid is like this:
3 6 9
2 5 8
1 4 7
-positions 1,2,3 are for slacker geometry which can be better for downhill but with less responsive steering
-positions 3,6,9 are for heavier riders and a more progressive stroke
-positions 7,8,9 are better for steeper geometry for climbing and traction while climbing with quicker turning.
-positions 1,4,7 are for lighter riders and a more linear stroke of the rear shock.
-position 5 is neutral all around.
Older bikes like mine (pre 2018 with the chip closer to the front of the bike), the grid is still like this:
3 6 9
2 5 8
1 4 7
However:
-positions 1,2,3 are better for steeper geometry for climbing and traction while climbing with quicker turning.
-positions 3,6,9 are for lighter riders and a more linear stroke of the rear shock.
-positions 7,8,9 are for slacker geometry which can be better for downhill but with less responsive steering
-positions 1,4,7 are for heavier riders and a more progressive stroke
-position 5 is neutral all around.
So, the runs in Jeff's video would look like this:
Run 1: Neutral /neutral:
Run 2: Neutral/regressive:
Run 3: Neutral/progressive: (this was his favourite setting and what he went back to on his final run. When he said his favourite was his "2nd setting", he meant his 3rd run, after having made the "2nd" adjustment)
Run 4: Steep/progressive:
Run 5: Steep/neutral:
Run 6: Steep/regressive:
Run 7: Slack/regressive:
Run 8: Slack/neutral:
Run 9: Slack/progressive:
Run 10: back to his favourite which was run 3 or his 2nd adjustment from his neutral/neutral starting position.
Runs 4, 5, and 6 he talked about twitchy steering or light steering, because all 3 runs were in positions 7,8, and 9 based on 2018 and newer chip position: (more of a cross country geometry). He liked climbing uphill best for these 3 positions.
Probably the best place to start is to do what Jeff did. The whole point of his video is for the rider to start somewhere and experiment. You may find different positions for different applications. Climbing vs. screaming downhill. Enjoy the ride.
@@boridley9044 thanks a Lot dude!
@@brunohd4254 Yes. I didn't catch the different positions of the chip at first with respect to older vs newer models. I have the older version, and could not tell by the video at first that Jeff had the newer version. There was only a split second where you can tell he is working closer to the rear of the bike. Hopefully, my comment above will help people regardless of what model they have. It can be confusing for many people. Even going to the website you have included, (which I did earlier) not everyone will notice their chip is in a different spot (like I didn't), and confusion can be the result. I tried to be as clear as possible. Cheers.
@@boridley9044 no worries, cheers
Just bought a RM Element. Very helpful to see and hear your experience.
My Spartan has it and I have genuinely used it. It's a large frame but still runs (well, ran. It's a 2016. They improved the reach) a little short for a large. I upped the Lyrik to a 180, which slacked the head angle a bit then I switched it to the "high" setting and picked up a bit of reach at what the head angle used to be on low. Definitely not a drastic difference, but enough to notice.
Pulls up looking like a total dad. Shreds better than everyone else 👌
You really should put 'RM RIDE9 - all 9 settings tested' in the title! 🤙🏻
Due to my riding environment, my adjustable frames have always stayed in the highest position and I have NEVER put them in the low. I just increase my fork 10mm longer to get more BB height.
This was my 3rd summer on my 2018 capra 29. I did the 1st year in low, 2nd in high, 3rd in low. In high mode it pedals better and turns sharper. In low it feels better on steeper and techy descents. Ive basically just matched it to the type of riding I seem to be focusing on that year.
On paper, I want the new stumpy evo to be my next bike. I like how they are doing the adjustments at the headtube and rear axle instead of a flip chip. I think it's pretty neat to be able to make the head tube slacker and the seat tube steeper. It's usually both getting slacker.
I ride a commencal clash and don't have a flip chip. But i did put a rockshox boxxer on the front and it felt sick
Hey Jeff ! Really cool video, especially for the folks who just bought the Altitude! I just received my Altitude 2021 2 weeks ago. I actually bought the bike specifically because it had a lot of adjustments for the geo. I live in the eastern part of Canada where we have a lot of steep/rocky trails but we also ride cross-country/gravel trail often. I wanted a bigger bike to handle bike park style trails as I mainly ride those types of trails, but I didn't want to loose the maneuverability aspects of a steeper/smaller bike for my backyard cross-country type trails. I feel like Rocky Mountain did a really great job on designing the new Altitude and I think it's a great versatile all-mountain/enduro bike because of those adjustments.
Nicely done man! I agree the adjustments are awesome- especially for a Canadian. If you build a bike to shred the north shore, it'll be massive overkill in Ontario. While not the only thing to consider by any means, having the ability to adjust the bike for terrain that is so different is pretty cool. Congrats on your new rig!
2019 Instinct BC, never touched the settings, only fork and shock pressures, i am only a BLUE trail rider so not 100% in tune with the bikes feelings
Have had many adjustable frames over the years put the bike frame in the highest BB bracket setting and just go out and ride!
I just got a new Stumpy Evo. After a few rides I’ve settled in on the steepest head angle and high bottom bracket. Seems to be the best for our trails here in Redding Ca.
I ride a hardtail😂
I actually own this bike (also in rally spec). The adjustments work for me - but 9 different positions is a touch much. I usually ride Pos.2 with the short chainstays for the majority of enduro/downhill trails. I'll maintain this geometry position but throw the chainstay to the long position for bikepark stuff for more stability through berms and longer machine built sections. If im riding smaller tighter trails or more xc stuff it's nice to steepen the head angle to 65 (neutral) or more (pos.8) to handle tighter snappier turns as well as increase bottom bracket height for fewer pedal strikes - so farin these conditions i run the chainstays in the short position as well.
But to your point I feel like I could run this bike in neutral for nearly every scenario and be fine - but that may have a bit more to do with the 38 up front in this spec. I feel like running a 36 you'd feel the need slightly more to steepen the HTA a bit in order to plow through rougher steeper stuff - but thats just a guess.
This is exactly what I’m all about when I see people testing things! Just being true and honest to ones abilities and what one truly wants from his or her setups! Killer video/riding/edit... all of the above ☝🏼🌲🚲💨❤️
Thanks for watching man!!! This was a bit of a push to film and edit, but hey, I learned something!
Video idea - Logan swaps the setting and doesnt tell you. Eliminates placebo affect. You ride and comment how it felt without know what setting it was in. Love your non-E vids Jeff. keep killing it.
Moved my bike from low and slack to high , too many pedal strikes.
Did it help? I'm having pedal strikes issues but only on climbs
I adjust the geo of my Devinci to the low setting when going to Kingdom Trails, which is pure, rock-free flow. Rest of the time keep the bottom bracket high for rock clearance. Guessing geo adjustment matters less if you just manual the whole trail like JKW 😂
Just ride a mountain unicycle bruv 😎
I still want a Showdown of the Jeffs; Cayley, Kendal-Weed, and Lenosky
YES!!! Got you covered Ethan! Here's some riding with Jeff Cayley from back in 2017 up in Fernie, BC: th-cam.com/video/6rYACB7X_cg/w-d-xo.html
Here's some riding with Jeff Lenosky: th-cam.com/video/GlHr21ZI-qc/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/FZ-sTh5k1AU/w-d-xo.html
Lenosky's vids: th-cam.com/video/bpSQDF1eJM4/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/hVdePY-7_hg/w-d-xo.html
You missed the most important Jeff. The Dude.
What about chainstay lenght? For me it was a game changer. The bike really impressed me when I put it on long chainstay. Different beast. It became FAST! I'm 6'2" and rode the XL, long chainstay makes so much sence for XL size.
How does it effect Climbing?
I'm rolling an instinct here in the"Ham" so this was cool to see! Very surprised you're not feeling the slacker settings. I think as a lower skiled and older rider, I like having more tire out front, but I'm going to revisit neutral for sure. Keep up the great vids!
Would be great if you could reference Rockys number system for the different settings. If I’m right, your sweet spot was #4 right? What number would you go with for a long backcountry ride with huge ascents and long non technical single track descents?
I'd go with 9 (steep, linear) if you're light and 7 (steep, progressive) if you're heavier; 4 (neutral geometry, progressive) if you're really big.
By the way the order Jeff tests in the video is 5, 6, 4, 7, 8, 9, 3, 2, 1 and 4 is his favourite.
I can adjust the height of my handlebars via spacers. Does that count?
Hahaha and you can adjust the width- once! lol!
🤦♂️
Heck yes! GF just getting into MTB and she learning different of rising bars versus stack height and how it affects the reach especially on more slacked bikes
Got my 2019 Decoy a week ago, haven't even set the suspension for my weight yet. I'm about 7 kilos lighter than the previous owner. 😅
I saw an owl for the first time out the other day. Spent probably 5 minutes just looking at it. Fascinating bird, amazed how quiet it was when it flew away!
Great video, great topic.
Would be great if you added the actual ride 9 setting as well.
Ive got a Altitude powerplay with the ride 9 and im experimenting with it at the moment
It would be interesting to see how you are making those adjustments and how they designed it to work.
Totally- in the end I didn't want the video to be dedicated to solely this one bike, I wanted to inspire people to consider tweaking their own bikes and doing a little testing. I actually cut a lot of stuff talking about this bike, which I'll include when I post a ride report video. Thanks again for the note!
Great video.....however, Logan looked gassed and you were the one riding! LOL Thanks guys!!
This video was top notch. Keep it up Jeff
My bike is a hard tail. It don’t have adjustable frame geometry. Interesting comparison with those geometry and suspension settings.
i have a 2020 Slayer 29 with Ride 4. it's the bomb. i would never have bought it if it didn't have the option of adjusting the geo. i ride the steepest setting on pure xc trails (which it sees a few times a year), the neutral setting most the time and the second slackest (setting 3) for our steepest trails or rides with the fastest descenders. it's brilliant and each setting matters. setting 3 is too slack for regular trail rides. so you might ask why i ride a Slayer on 'regular' trails at all. well it's so dam good and pedals so well no matter the trail or terrain, that i just got rid of my other bike. i can't get my head around the Ride 9 option, but Ride 4 is easy to use, understand and feel each difference.
I'm riding a canyon strive cf 5 from 2019. It has the "shapeshifter 2.0" feature, which let's me change geometry on the fly.
Ive got ascend and descend mode.
But unfortunately it is very flat where I live, so I mostly have it in ascend mode to make it easier to pedal. And I often forget to change while descending. But it does make a difference :-)
My Giant Trance X has a flip chip, but I haven't switched it yet.
That was good, thank you. For a minute I didn’t think you were going to tell us which your preferred 😜
I was looking at getting the new Stumpjumper Evo, but figured I'd probably put in the lower setting and never change it.
I saved myself $2200AUD and got a 2021 Norco Sight A2
I was thinking something similar, but my S4 Evo is still in order, still kicking it around. The 5-9 months before it would arrive has me seriously considering other options. The shop I’m ordering from has a large Bronson in stock that’s really tempting...
You are the first trail shredder with a bike bell. 🙃
I had a Rocky Instinct and played with all 9 settings, different fork travel 140mm-160mm, 29er and Mullet set ups. I ended riding most often with 160mm fork in the steepest least progressive setting because it provided the best pedaling efficiency but still had decent downhill capability. I sold it, and bought a Rocky Instinct Powerplay. No compromise for pedaling efficiency. Run the bike with 160mm fork, 155mm rear (BC edition setting, slackest most progressive) and in a Mullet set up.
My exact setup but with a mullet and a Pipeline with the Instict cup race.
why does your handlebar sticker say "ensonusa"?
I lost my J! lol
I have a question :
I saw one person selling Rocky Mountain Instinct 999 mls from 2015. on local ad. He asks really low price for it, something like 2500€ (that is 2800-to3000$, depending on exchange..)
Now, I like that bike, it is in like new condition... On the other hand, I don't like to buy old and outdated things... I'm wondering, with this adjustable geometry, is Rocky Mountain basically future proof??? Ok, bike had all XTR parts from 980 era - polished shiny stuf... But who cares, I liked that, still am.
My only concern is that I'm basically buying 8 year old bike, 130mm travel - so trail bike... and I have Radon Slide Trail 9 2021 1500mm which I built from scratch, I only kept shock from stock parts.
I have a Rocky Altitude with the Ride 9 adjustment. I use my adjustments several times a year. I run mostly in the neutral-progressive spot but will slack it out for the park days. I have just over one full degree of HTA adjustment in the system. The Ride 9 was deff a selling point but not the only reason I bought it. LOVE My Rocky Altitude!!
Great feedback, thanks Simon!
Thanks for the most informative video yet on the Ride 9. I had to take notes the second time I watched it. Ive been riding the Instinct for 2 years. I ride lots in Tucson, which is super tech as you know. I also ride Sedona a bunch and would never miss a bike park. At 150 lbs I’m set in neutral/regressive (pos 6). As you pointed out, good for lighter folks. I’ve also removed volume spacers to try and get into the travel more. It seemed initially I wasn’t getting full travel with 30% sag. This bike does it all, coupled with some Enve 630s. It always has me riding above my skill level with an occasional sacrifice of skin and pride!!
what number is the 3rd run i’m in the more heavier side at 225
2018 RM altitude. tried like 5 of the 9 settings over the years. I always come back to slack-progressive (position 9). ends up with the same approximate geometry as the 2021 medium with the 27.5 wheels in neutral-progressive.
Boom!!! Yeah mine feels so good now I don't really want to mess with it any more. In fact, I rode for 2 hrs this morning and didn't even think about the bike once- it was nice! Glad you've got your Altitude dialed in now too!!!
@@JeffKendallWeed 2016 RM altitude I have it in the steeper-progressive setting, trails here are a bit different then out west, but when I go out west I adjust to slacker, so yes its nice to have adjustable geo (really beneficial if you travel with your bike all over)
Did you mean position 1 because that should be slack. Btw I have same bike and I still playing with it.
@@postro11111 I think you're right. From the drive side, bottom left is slackest, and that's numbered as 1.
Great video. Can you do it again but also with the adjustable chainstay length with each ride 9 setting.
lol nope! Not gonna bother with riding the long chainstays much, my style is to jump a lot. The longer stays on the ebikes are a real buzzkill for me as it is.
My Radon Slide Trail 9 from 2021. have flip chip. It allows me to have two different types of geometry. I never used it though. I might fiddle with it now once I saw this... I'm planing to have my own garage or better yet bike-man-cave... Then I'll have space to operate on my bikes.
"RM moved the Ride 9 chip from the top of the shock to the bottom and re-numbered in positions. In the 2018 bikes the positions go from to slackest, lowest, and most progressive in Position 1 to steepest, highest, least progressive in Position 9."
In the end....everyone is gonna have their own style/weight/available terrain to ride.....etc... and all the variables won't be a one size fits all.
For those that are around your weight and style and terrain etc... This will be helpful! 😀😇😎
Honestly Jeff, I think just raising folks' awareness that their bikes have these capabilities, and that they can completely transform the bike, is more important than anyone copying my own settings. Read through the comments here- a lot of folks never adjust their bikes!
@@JeffKendallWeed I saw that! Haha! You are right! I know the technology is probably not too far from having a mercury switch activated remote operated suspension system for those that don't wanna enjoy too much climbing or too much down hill. And to make it a very cushy ride without being too twitchy...but... I probably would not wanna ride it. (Couldn't afford it either way!)
I did have a thought some time ago that for a dropper post with a weight sensing device in the seat padding that automatically drops to the lowest position and comes back up to the predetermined set height by the rider. (Using the same kinda memory that an automatic power seat in a car would have when had as an option) when the seat pad feels the rider wants to sit again it goes up...but not TOO fast. Don't wanna eject someone.
Do you think a buttonless weight sensing dropper post would be too gimmicky or would it be something that would be the easiest to install with no need to drill holes in frames and routing cables and having levers to find/make room for?
I have put little effort into making this happen as I am doing now..someone with more money than me pounded feet to a patent office and brought my idea to market. Oh well. I don't have the want to pay all that money and even to fight others for patent infringement by just one tiny change being a loophole to a "completely different product".
I think it is a great idea! Thoughts?
😀😇😎
I have a RM ride 9 Instinct and I would have found your review a lot more helpful if you had mentioned the settings by numbers 1- through 9. Personally I started in 5 and have tried 4, 3 and 2. I preferred and found a big difference in 3 vs 4 and 5. Now I am riding in 2. 2 and 3 are better for steep and that is what almost everything is where I live. Thanks.
Agreed it would've been helpful, but most of us don't have the same bike so easier to follow along with the description. Probably should've done both!
@@topspot4834 Thank you, and I should have mentioned that review was helpful and appreciated. In retrospect, I see my comment was a little blunt. Happy Trails.
There are absolutely no downsides to adjustability. If you look at where mountain bikes were born out of, dirt bikes then you understand that mountain bikes have been way behind until recently. If it comes down to a rider being lazy or ignorant about their own bike then that's their problem. 👍 I'm always amazed at how many apathetic Riders say they don't know what they're bike does or they don't know how something works when we live in an age of information overload. There are a few really good informational sites and video channels that explain what each brand of bike features and how to adjust it. Again if you are going to be that lazy and stupid well so be it...🤦♂️🤷♂️. The more adjustability the better the performance for the individual rider. 👍 all mountain bikes above a certain price point should have adjustable rake & trail, as well as wheelbase. It'll come to fruition it's just a matter of time.
Yes, YT Capra. It came in the low setting. I put it into the high setting and I've left it there. It helps the Capra to climb really well and it still descends great. I always have the seat post down when descending so I just leave the flip chip in the high setting.
Great feedback Christie!!! I have a hunch that adjustable BB heights would be awesome. Some places really do benefit to have some higher clearance!
YES!
most people want a do all bike, so it makes a lot sense.
I agree Fresh! I'm a fan!
a Good video but really lacked images of where you were actually running the ride9 link, would help understand this video 1000% time better
I think most people are "set it & forget it" types.
I've only ever had adjustability when I ran a fox talus fork years ago. Tried fiddling with it to see if it helped with the steepest climbs. But then never used it again.
Like most things, adjustability might be cool for some folks, but a novelty at best for most.
My bike doesn't have adjustable geometry, but I think I'd appreciate shorter chainstays for just whipping around Galby.
My Banshee Rune V3 has adjustable geo. Built it up in "low" and never touched again.
I think usually its placebo for most people. The biggest factor is probably pedal strikes.
I agree that folks get used to most anything. But the differences are pretty apparent! I rode in the slack/low and progressive position for a few days and really didn't like it- and the change made a HUGE improvement. On a side note, I've seen plenty of demo events where riders come back to return the bike and say they loved it- and I look down and notice the suspension was locked out! I ask if they adjusted the suspension or turned any knobs, and they;'ll say they didn't touch anything the whole time. Placebo is huge!
@@JeffKendallWeed I made this mistake in Lake Tahoe, bike shop mechanic locked out frame for me because I had a bit of a road climb from the town to the trails, had a great ride killer terrain realized frame was locked out on the road ride back down the mountain. Suspension is not totally dead when locked out.
How do you like the rune? I have a prime v2
Is 27.5 dead? I NEED to know!
Yep! Died 18 months ago. Maybe I should do a video about that?
@@JeffKendallWeed Please!
NO! I'm saving up for a 27.5 non boost non ➕ enduro.... Now they are doing away with them?
I guess I'll just keep my 26 inch stuff when my frame breaks and get a full suspension frame and swap my old school stuff to whatever it is I get....
😀😇😎
@@JeffKendallWeed MULLLEETTTTT
@@kinch04 yes! Mullet
So wich position is "Neutral Geometry, Progressiv Suspension"?
4
@@ErhardFrebold isn't it 3?
@@neuvince I think Jeff's thinking of it as a square, not a diamond. Whether a 2018-2020 or a 2021+, that makes the left column slack, middle column neutral, and right column steep. Then the bottom row is most progressive and top row least. That'd make #3 slack linear, and #4 neutral progressive. That doesn't seem to be how RM think about it, and they may be right, as the chip rotates in action, complicating the situation. static.webshopapp.com/shops/193436/files/167352545/2018-ride9-altitude-en.pdf
Nice video. Lots of similarities to the stump jumper evo you rode for awhile and also had the adjustments. Which bike do you like better of the two?
Hi Jeff, were you riding it in the long chain stay position or in the shorter (adjustable flip chip in the rear axle)?
Specialized srumpjumper evo. 64.5 and high on the local trails, enduro. 65.5 and low on the flat trails, longer distance. 63.5 and low - bikepark.
Hey Jenson seems i was wrong, I got a 2018 and I was told 1.2.3 are the most progressive but looks from your video is 1.4.7 ? Does have the new Altitude the same flip chip behavior setting?
How about chainstay lengths? How much of an impact does it have to have 10mm shorter chainstays with similar or the same fornt triangle length?
bro u need a damn haircut!
Lol
I have a 2013 Altitude and I’m going to switch it up. Thanks 🙏🏽 Your riding style makes me nervous! 🤣 most of us aren’t that bouncy!
Owning a Rocky Mountain is like owning multiple bikes in one...if you don’t understand the advantage to that you’re just missing out...simple as that
I ride an OG Canyon Sender, I have a -1 degree headtube cup, and a flip-chip on the chainstay which I run in the short config. I'm a short guy and prefer the poppability of shorter chainstays on this bike.
I have a Knolly delirium and warden which have a regular a slack setting. Been riding both in the slack setting always.
I have a 2018 YT Capra 29er. I have changed it to the high position and prefer the low position.
I have a 2016 Altitude and have the ride-9 in the slackest geometry and most progressive suspension as my favorite
Rocky mountain Thunderbolt 2018, yes I have use it to make it a bit slacker. You do feel the changes.
I love the adjustability on my bike. Wish you could also adjust chainstay length as well
Progressive , Regressive I understand the terms but I'm confused on the ride 9 adjustments your in. It would be nice to know the # your in. Plus am I missing that the bike has a second adjustment other than the ride 9 flip chip for progressive and regressive. I cant find anything but the 9 positions on the ride 9 on RM sight.
Good vid 👍
Thanks so much for this. I have a 2018 Altitude and have been trying to figure out the ride 9 for awhile. The Rocky Mountain documentation on it does not explain the progressive/neutral/regressive positions. They also don't do a good job of grouping 1-2-3 as slack 4-5-6 as neutral, 7-8-9 as steep. I like the steep setting for my riding. I could never figure out why setting 7 felt so much different till now. I'm light so seem to like the neutral regressive one too.
One question. The geometry changes too. Did you also change stem/risers when going between the slack/neutral/steep positions?
Not on my bike but my driver golf club has adjustability and I never touch it. Haha
Canyon Strive. Didn't notice anything drastic. Pretty much just keep it on trail mode.
I flip mine. Got some rocky tech in PA i like riding high, then i also ride places sometimes that's mostly flow and i adjust. Great option. Pivot does theirs well.
I've got a '19 Guerilla Gravity Shred Dogg / Megatrail (the difference is 2 different shocks with the longer shock == MT) and each has 2 positions. I like the long shock/longer travel and shorter shock/shorter travel modes best. That works out to 135mm and poppy vs 165mm and plush. The in betweens didn't really do it for me.
Manufacturers would do much better if they ensured sales staff helped new bike owners set their bike up before leaving the store and have one free return consultation.
I have trance x with 2 positions low and slack, or more upright position. I find this is great - I use in more upright position most of the time for my local flatter trails. If I go somewhere that is a little steeper the slacker position is better. I do think if thee is too much adjustability it would take the fun out of riding. Stop fiddling with your rig and just ride it I say!
My Devinci Spartan has the flip chip, but I've never had it in the hi configuration, always been in lo. Occasional pedal or crank strike in the tech but never hit the bash guard. I should play with it maybe, the hi setting might be more appropriate for most the local trails.
Hey Jeff, what did you think about the altitude? Any likes/dislikes?
FAD or RAD. Likely both. Lol. Interesting video.
Awesome video love your effort makes me want to mess with my settings now
Would have been handy for you to have shown the chip positions
Cool video! If you change the geometry does the pressure in fork or damper need also some adjustment? Like you have more progression and this allows to ride with less pressure.
I have a 2020 yt jeffsy comp 29r. It has a flip chip from low to high. After watching this video I went for a ride in the high setting and really enjoyed the ride compared to stock settings. I didn’t think it would matter but it did. Thanks for the insight.
How does this bike climb in your opinion? Also, what size Ru on?
Just wanted to say thank you for doing this video. I have a 2020 Altitude and I am familiar with the Ride9 system. For whatever reason I did not even consider the progressive setting and how it would help to prevent me from blowing through my travel since I started riding a coil. Spring rate was correct, but just wanted a little more support. Neutral, Progressive Setting. It is perfect for my setup. Thanks again! Great Video!
Most people probably use three settings. Slack, Neutral, Steep
I have an instinct, always been in neutral/neutral.
Thinking of going steep/neutral since i do a lot of xc style riding in dallas, would go to neutral/progressive whenever doing enduro.
Just bought one of these and im sooooo excited to ride it. Just waiting for it to get wrapped.
Love the adjustable travel/geometry of my guerrilla gravity, very noticeable. Would love to see your opinions any of their bikes,
My Megatower has adjustments. I have settled into the short chainstay and steeper geo. When I get a mor me “down country” bike I think I’ll go long chain and slack. Does that make sense?
JB, the "wheels on the ground" folks tend to like the long chainstays. That along with folks who prefer to monster truck. Shorter travel bikes tend to do better when ridden with a more jumpy style, so the shorter stays are nice on those bikes.
Well done Again! That detail is hugely important to get an understanding on what the Ride 9 can do.
Great video. I have a GT Sensor. Tried in low first and then settled on high. Less pedal strikes. Easier to manoeuvre in low speed sections and tight corners like switchbacks. A little more reach which helps fitment and gets a bit more weight on the front for steeper climbs. I feel that 66 degrees is slack enough for most trail riding and I don't even drop my post 1/2 as much as I did on my 69 degree old Norco Fluid. If I go somewhere with more serious downhill sections, it's nice to know that I have the ability to go back to low.
Evil Offering: Low/Xtra-low. I've always ridden it in X-low. Perfect for the fast/long/loose descents in Flag, but considering the higher setting for Sedona this winter. As far as progression goes, I just learned Evil doesn't recommend any spacers in the shock. I tested this and went from 0-3 incrementally. Turns out, they were right. With each spacer the bike felt worse. By #3 the rear wheel felt like it was bouncing off everything, harsh through the chop, and the pedal kickback was horrendous, so food for thought..
Thanks for the feedback man! Interesting that the bike is progressive enough that you don't need reducers. You are on the right track with a higher BB setting for Sedona IMO!
As with most things on the bike, I would rather "Set it and forget it". I had adjustable geo and never once felt the need to change it. On a side note, why do you even have a front wheel? :-)
Fair enough, I'd rather not monkey with set up on a daily basis, but I love that this bike can be tweaked if we decide to shuttle Darrington or ride Whistler. And if we are heading to Sedona, for instance, I could make it a little steeper for the flatter trails.
I think it has a place in todays scene, but we don't need 9 settings that the RM offers. A simple high and low seems to be sufficient IMO.
PS - Which Kali helmet are you wearing?
I am confused. RMs guide says all positions are 'progressive' suspension, how did you get neutral and regressive? My trails are heavy on technical both up and down, so trying to figure which setting is best for climbing, but still have great control on the way down. Can you associate which setting you used for each run?
I think Jeff means "relatively regressive", i.e. less progressive. Keep in mind this is just the linkage setup and your shock makes a big difference in how progressive it's gonna feel.