You have the equipment and good techniques for annealing, then re-hardening the steel and for sharpening these tools, but I can hardly believe you have ever seen or used any woodturning tools before. 1. Grind all sign of the file teeth off to avoid damaging the toolrest. 2. Round off the edges of the tools for the same reason. 3. Drill the hole for the tang first, and set the dead centre in it. the hole will then be central and in line with the handle. 4. The parting tool will work much better with a straight, not concave, bevel. 5. Both the parting tool and the skew are cutting tools, not scrapers. You will get a good finish off the tools if you use them correctly.
@@Take_And_Make I half expected that you would be on the defensive about this, and am very pleased you have taken it as it was intended - constructive criticism. Hope it helps.
I made a set of lathe scrapers years ago from old files but without the annealing and re-hardening, grinding only. I used brass pipe fittings to make the ferrules and they work very well. I also have a few crude lathe tools made by my grandfather from old planer blades, a very good source (if harder to find) of good quality tool steel.
Nothing’s more satisfying than making one’s own tools. Thank you for taking us along on your impressive process. This video moved at a pace that kept it interesting, and it is filled with excellent content. And the wee tree! Ah, nice touch! 💚
Hello my friend? i use to work bumper shop for 12 year and to keep the metal bumper cool when we had to grind it....On the belt we use a little soap, as the belt is turning just touch the soap to the belt for a blink of a eye. And to keep Like them blade from warping when harding make sure the top edge and bottom edge are lined up with north and south
Lovemaking two handles at one time . A smoother finial finish can be had using a 3/4" to 1" skew not a rasp . When f8tfing the copper bolster use your calipers to measurethe inside diameter and make to shoulderto the measurement it can be sanded to fit and use gel CA when fitting Avter fitted youcan use centerpunchand hammer to make a dimple in the side to grip When seperating the ends and halves start with thin parting tool and leave about a 1/4"remove from lathe and make final cut onband saw , and finish at belt sander You canadd details like groves near the butt and throat while sgill on lathe but pressing the toe of skew then friction burn using a piece of thin hard wood 9r counter top laminate , with the lathe speed turned up high , detail rings can also be added to the copper ferrel with either a tubing cutter as you cut them , or the toe of skew When a final finish is decided on either a clear shellac or lacquer, they can be applied while still on the lathe A final detail canbe an ulpoholstery tack in the butt end Thank you for the reheating and shaping information I have plans to make a round scraper from a mill bastard file
Good video, demonstrating some very skilled craftsmanship. Now that you have a great looking skew chisel, I’d suggest you learn the techniques of making slicing cuts with it and your roughing gouge. You can make awesome smooth cuts compared to using scraping cuts. There are numerous good videos on the subject on TH-cam which can help make your woodturning experience very easy and enjoyable. Good job, thanks for sharing.
In addition to Tony Newton - for the handles - drill your hole first. If you can, do it on the lathe with a Jacobs chuck so that the hole can be 100% straight. Center on in the hole and turn the tenon - you can test the size. Last the rest of the handle. All in all, good work, however. Kind regards.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I've made quite a few turning tools with varying degrees of success. I wish I had more knowledge of tempering and hardening. Nice job on the tools 👌
Buen trabajo. No sé si lo sabes pero cuando calientas las piezas de metal y se des magnetiza, cuando lo metes en el aceite se vuelven a magnetizar con el campo magnético de la tierra, por eso las hojas finas el aceite para sumergirse el metal hay que analizarlo con el norte magnético para que cuando se enfríe no se tuerza.
Nice job on the skew and parting tool. In the last year or so have you learned how to use a skew? Master the skew and turning becomes much easier. That entire turning could have been done with one tool and no need for sanding. It’s not easy.
@@Take_And_Make I was a production spindle turner for many years and after my new shop is done I thought I would get a small metal lathe and a mill. I'd like to incorperate the two mediums and i'm not into metal sculpture. I worked as a labtech in a scupture lab for 5 years. I teach woodworking now.
Ну ваша ёлочка просто обрадовала меня . Миниатюрный шедевр ! Когда работаете на токарном станке по дереву - мне вашу рубашку жалко . Позже опилки ведь колоть будут . Наверно халат какой то нужен .
This video took a long time to figure out what was actually happening to the files. They actually get turned into wood turning chisels. The way I found this video was looking for restoring files though. You can't find any good files these days. Probably can't find any good wood chiseling tools either. Does heating the files up then possibly clean them and restore them? Kind of like resharpening them but instead just making them clean is actually what's happening?
Heating the files will destroy them. It will cause them to become soft (almost as soft as mild steel), and form scale (oxide harder than rust), making the teeth blunt. If you want to restore files, get a brass or other softwire brush (not plated steel) and then soak in vinegar or other acid, take out occasionally and brush the grooves out, removing rust and clogged metal. This should improve the performance of the files and not meaningfully damage the files steel. (Contrary to popular belief this doesn't really sharpen files, it just cleans them out). If you look at your files, and you see reflective spots on the very top of the teeth, the file is worn out. Now it can still be used, for example if you were to use the edge of the file (usually lasts much longer than the flat faces due to not seeing much use), or the ends can still be good, so you can use those. But aren't going to be much good outside of extremely soft metals, or plastics and wood. You don't need to toss them if they go dull though, they are usually very good steel. You can turn them into marking knives, scrapers, wood or metal lathe turning tools, or practically anything else that needs tool steel, I've seen a bunch of really useful things for bits of files, one being removing the seam from the inside of tubing. A little creativity and a grinder get you quite far. Though, if you are using them without annealing/tempering, they are going to be dangerous in high stress environments (lots of shock or lateral force), they can shoot shards that will injure you. So learn what you need for specific situations, and you'll be fine.
@@autumn5592 i have a LOT of flea market files that appear to have been used on aluminum. Getting those clean have been efforts in vain, nothing has worked. I'm not new to working with restoring files, just a bit of personal experience on seemingly impossible to clean files.
@@TingTingalingy Get yourself a soft scribe (if you have those generic small jewelers screwdrivers, you can grind a point onto on of them) or even mild steel rod. Then you follow the groove of the file tooth, pushing along it, the aluminium should pop out. May take a few passes to properly work, because the file teeth will cut the scribe to the same form as the teeth, allowing it to get deep inside the groove. Use a magnifying glass or the sort to help you see if you are having trouble. To avoid pinning on your files, frequently use a brass brush or file card, and for soft metals apply a chalk to the teeth, this prevents aluminium from sticking.
that was great , ihave made a few tools from files , I dont have all the tools you do , please do the same idea , yet using simple tools the average joe would have . Thanks , Bryan McCabe , AKA , wOODBUTCHER
If you were paying any attention at all you would've noticed that I did in fact annealed those files in the forge prior to grinding them. Hope that answers your question.
@@Take_And_Make Sorry that I was also doing other things while lazily watching your video, I see that's a no no with you, as is your lack in knowledge of how annealing works. What you did wasn't really annealing, it was WAY too hot on some parts and too cold in others. Not unless your forge is made solely of refractory, which if it is, it is a ceramics kiln and not a forge at all. The method you used cools much too quickly, if your forge is a ceramic blanket lined with any form of refractory, to properly anneal or normalize. You also didn't employ the fast annealing process... So, maybe you didn't intend to come off as a rude sod, but you did.. welcome to putting yourself out there and getting feedback & questions. Smh
I'll be making more knives on my channel, including throwing once, maybe you should subscribe! Meantime you can watch my knifemaking playlist th-cam.com/video/_eah8Lr58RQ/w-d-xo.html
@@Take_And_Make Absolutely .... mind over matter, right :o) My dad is a machinist and taught me and my brothers to be jack of all trades ... never buy a tool or pay for a job that we can do ourselves! I never liked that philosophy when I was a kid but I love that lifestyle now!
Your metalworiking files will last much longer if you lift the file off the workpiece after each forward stroke. It appears that you are using a file like abrasive paper and are contacting the surface on the return stroke, bad practice.... I have files that are 45 or more years old that are still pristine after a lifetime of use by using the correct method of filing. I was taught by a diesinker that was born in 1895 yes, 1895 he was good.
That was accepted as fact by many of us but, actually that is not true. It was completely disproved in a very thorough test posted by Fireball Tool a few months ago on YT.
You have the equipment and good techniques for annealing, then re-hardening the steel and for sharpening these tools, but I can hardly believe you have ever seen or used any woodturning tools before.
1. Grind all sign of the file teeth off to avoid damaging the toolrest.
2. Round off the edges of the tools for the same reason.
3. Drill the hole for the tang first, and set the dead centre in it. the hole will then be central and in line with the handle.
4. The parting tool will work much better with a straight, not concave, bevel.
5. Both the parting tool and the skew are cutting tools, not scrapers. You will get a good finish off the tools if you use them correctly.
Thank you very much for breaking this down for me! I appreciate a lot!
I have a lot to learn, yes!
@@Take_And_Make I half expected that you would be on the defensive about this, and am very pleased you have taken it as it was intended - constructive criticism. Hope it helps.
I always separate constructive criticism from hate. We live and learn
Cool use for a file, but it seems like a lot of effort just to make a wooden anal plug?
,c es un
That's imaginative. I thought you were going to do a knife of some sort, but you made something REALLY useful.
Thank you, Peter!
I made a set of lathe scrapers years ago from old files but without the annealing and re-hardening, grinding only. I used brass pipe fittings to make the ferrules and they work very well. I also have a few crude lathe tools made by my grandfather from old planer blades, a very good source (if harder to find) of good quality tool steel.
Great point!
I once made a chisel from a tang off a garden fork found in my shed. It wasn't amazing but does perform a task.
Thank you it was a pleasure to watch you using your skills. Well done.
Thank you too!
Nothing’s more satisfying than making one’s own tools. Thank you for taking us along on your impressive process.
This video moved at a pace that kept it interesting, and it is filled with excellent content.
And the wee tree! Ah, nice touch! 💚
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for watching!
Respect, well done Sir. A true Craftman!
Thank you, sir!
winter = time in the shop and ice fishing!
Bravo, bravo, bravo, super work, video and products, respectfull from old BG.
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@Take_And_Make Of course, it's very professional awesom work!
I think I'll just buy mine..😆
Hello my friend? i use to work bumper shop for 12 year and to keep the metal bumper cool when we had to grind it....On the belt we use a little soap, as the belt is turning just touch the soap to the belt for a blink of a eye. And to keep Like them blade from warping when harding make sure the top edge and bottom edge are lined up with north and south
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks, I enjoyed watching this.
Glad to hear it!
Lovemaking two handles at one time . A smoother finial finish can be had using a 3/4" to 1" skew not a rasp .
When f8tfing the copper bolster use your calipers to measurethe inside diameter and make to shoulderto the measurement it can be sanded to fit and use gel CA when fitting
Avter fitted youcan use centerpunchand hammer to make a dimple in the side to grip
When seperating the ends and halves start with thin parting tool and leave about a 1/4"remove from lathe and make final cut onband saw , and finish at belt sander
You canadd details like groves near the butt and throat while sgill on lathe but pressing the toe of skew then friction burn using a piece of thin hard wood 9r counter top laminate , with the lathe speed turned up high , detail rings can also be added to the copper ferrel with either a tubing cutter as you cut them , or the toe of skew
When a final finish is decided on either a clear shellac or lacquer, they can be applied while still on the lathe
A final detail canbe an ulpoholstery tack in the butt end
Thank you for the reheating and shaping information
I have plans to make a round scraper from a mill bastard file
Thank you for the good pointers, Gary!
That is awesome. The biggest obstacle is the forge.
Ignor all the know it alls listen you did a great job vetter than i could of made they look really good well done
Thank you!
Nicely done. Darlington, South Carolina
Thank you from Edmonton, Alberta
I find the similarities in working with wood and metals fascinating.
Great job, I like making my own tools also
great job greetings from Poland 👍
Thank you! 👍
Good video, demonstrating some very skilled craftsmanship. Now that you have a great looking skew chisel, I’d suggest you learn the techniques of making slicing cuts with it and your roughing gouge. You can make awesome smooth cuts compared to using scraping cuts. There are numerous good videos on the subject on TH-cam which can help make your woodturning experience very easy and enjoyable. Good job, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tips!
In addition to Tony Newton - for the handles - drill your hole first. If you can, do it on the lathe with a Jacobs chuck so that the hole can be 100% straight. Center on in the hole and turn the tenon - you can test the size. Last the rest of the handle. All in all, good work, however. Kind regards.
Thank you for your suggestion!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I've made quite a few turning tools with varying degrees of success. I wish I had more knowledge of tempering and hardening. Nice job on the tools 👌
Cool, thanks
an amazing finish !
Well all your tree needs now is lights 😁. Good job making those tools.
Thank you!
Verry good!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Just keep up the great work Bro.👌👌👌
Thanks, will do!
I really appreciate your efforts to keep together your work Shop equipment success i like the furnace the other product too good tools
Thank you very much!
what was the blue granules you mixed the epoxy with?
nice job on making those tools. you gave me the idea to make some.
That was just a colour pigment.
Glad that I could inspire you!
Buen trabajo. No sé si lo sabes pero cuando calientas las piezas de metal y se des magnetiza, cuando lo metes en el aceite se vuelven a magnetizar con el campo magnético de la tierra, por eso las hojas finas el aceite para sumergirse el metal hay que analizarlo con el norte magnético para que cuando se enfríe no se tuerza.
¡Gracias Señor!
Además, gracias por informarme sobre la polaridad al endurecer el acero, no lo sabía.
What does rubbing sawdust on the wood at the end do?
Give it some shine
muy buenas herramientas, gracias
Hello why do you have to put the tools in the oven after how long and at what temperature ? Thanks👍
You put steel in oven after hardening to make them less brittle, read about tempering steel. I had them in oven for 2 hrs at 400F
The steel is like glass after hardening .
Nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks I know what to do with my box of old files now. BTW what is that black power you mixed with the 2 part epoxy?
👍Nice Work!!
Beautiful instruments!
Thanks, Joe!
What belt grinder did you make here? Did you come up with these plans are is this something you can buy/download?
This is where I bought my plans
housemade.us/collections/the-revolution-2x72-belt-grinder-plans
Why the washer when you were drilling the hole in the neck?
Helps to see if you holding your drill straight horizontally
Beau travail. Bravo.
Grazie!
Anyone know what was up with the washer on the drill bit?
Helps you hold your bit on centre
I’d love a forge.
Great job !!!
Thank you! Cheers!
What was that black stuff you put in the glue?
Just a colour pigment
I actually thought this was pretty cool 👍
They both turned out very nicely.
Great effort and great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Nagawa po ba kayo ng lucob
Nice job on the skew and parting tool. In the last year or so have you learned how to use a skew? Master the skew and turning becomes much easier. That entire turning could have been done with one tool and no need for sanding. It’s not easy.
I’m actually more into metal work now, but I feel like I’d get back to turning wood initially
@@Take_And_Make I was a production spindle turner for many years and after my new shop is done I thought I would get a small metal lathe and a mill. I'd like to incorperate the two mediums and i'm not into metal sculpture. I worked as a labtech in a scupture lab for 5 years. I teach woodworking now.
Tempering is temperature critical, not necessary to time it. Traditionally determined by the colour of the oxide. Read Tubal Cain.
Yes, that's why I put it in the oven so I can control temperature to gain the color of the straw.
Great work mate, I really like it. Tge oak timber has some beautiful grain. I also like your sense of humour...your singing, not so much😂😂
Thanks 👍
Ну ваша ёлочка просто обрадовала меня . Миниатюрный шедевр ! Когда работаете на токарном станке по дереву - мне вашу рубашку жалко . Позже опилки ведь колоть будут . Наверно халат какой то нужен .
jamais appris à tourner le bois ce monsieur !!! 😂
Thanks
No problem
This video took a long time to figure out what was actually happening to the files. They actually get turned into wood turning chisels. The way I found this video was looking for restoring files though. You can't find any good files these days. Probably can't find any good wood chiseling tools either. Does heating the files up then possibly clean them and restore them? Kind of like resharpening them but instead just making them clean is actually what's happening?
Just soak your files in vinegar for a week, than clean gently with soft wire brush
Heating the files will destroy them.
It will cause them to become soft (almost as soft as mild steel), and form scale (oxide harder than rust), making the teeth blunt.
If you want to restore files, get a brass or other softwire brush (not plated steel) and then soak in vinegar or other acid, take out occasionally and brush the grooves out, removing rust and clogged metal.
This should improve the performance of the files and not meaningfully damage the files steel. (Contrary to popular belief this doesn't really sharpen files, it just cleans them out).
If you look at your files, and you see reflective spots on the very top of the teeth, the file is worn out.
Now it can still be used, for example if you were to use the edge of the file (usually lasts much longer than the flat faces due to not seeing much use), or the ends can still be good, so you can use those.
But aren't going to be much good outside of extremely soft metals, or plastics and wood.
You don't need to toss them if they go dull though, they are usually very good steel.
You can turn them into marking knives, scrapers, wood or metal lathe turning tools, or practically anything else that needs tool steel, I've seen a bunch of really useful things for bits of files, one being removing the seam from the inside of tubing.
A little creativity and a grinder get you quite far.
Though, if you are using them without annealing/tempering, they are going to be dangerous in high stress environments (lots of shock or lateral force), they can shoot shards that will injure you. So learn what you need for specific situations, and you'll be fine.
@@autumn5592 l
@@autumn5592 i have a LOT of flea market files that appear to have been used on aluminum. Getting those clean have been efforts in vain, nothing has worked. I'm not new to working with restoring files, just a bit of personal experience on seemingly impossible to clean files.
@@TingTingalingy Get yourself a soft scribe (if you have those generic small jewelers screwdrivers, you can grind a point onto on of them) or even mild steel rod.
Then you follow the groove of the file tooth, pushing along it, the aluminium should pop out.
May take a few passes to properly work, because the file teeth will cut the scribe to the same form as the teeth, allowing it to get deep inside the groove.
Use a magnifying glass or the sort to help you see if you are having trouble.
To avoid pinning on your files, frequently use a brass brush or file card, and for soft metals apply a chalk to the teeth, this prevents aluminium from sticking.
Moro no mato grosso trabalhando numa empresa de alimentos.mas o que gosto mesmo de produzir artesanatos
Some/many new files are made from low-carbon steel by case hardening, so they will not be rehardenable like this.
This was not a new file, it did harden 100%
@@Take_And_Make oh definitely, i can see that, I'm just saying that not every file will harden like this.
that was great , ihave made a few tools from files , I dont have all the tools you do , please do the same idea , yet using simple tools the average joe would have . Thanks , Bryan McCabe , AKA , wOODBUTCHER
If you are charging $100 an hour for your fine work these are probably $500 chisels! I'm happy to see the process though.
Hahaha, those chisels don’t worth that much money and probably wouldn’t put them on sale at all, I just like to make some tools myself if I can.
Nice..
Why are you heat treating them? They were already heat treated from go. At most you would've needed to temper down the HRC.
If you were paying any attention at all you would've noticed that I did in fact annealed those files in the forge prior to grinding them. Hope that answers your question.
@@Take_And_Make Sorry that I was also doing other things while lazily watching your video, I see that's a no no with you, as is your lack in knowledge of how annealing works.
What you did wasn't really annealing, it was WAY too hot on some parts and too cold in others. Not unless your forge is made solely of refractory, which if it is, it is a ceramics kiln and not a forge at all. The method you used cools much too quickly, if your forge is a ceramic blanket lined with any form of refractory, to properly anneal or normalize.
You also didn't employ the fast annealing process... So, maybe you didn't intend to come off as a rude sod, but you did.. welcome to putting yourself out there and getting feedback & questions. Smh
For a minute there, I thought you were making throwing knives.
I'll be making more knives on my channel, including throwing once, maybe you should subscribe!
Meantime you can watch my knifemaking playlist
th-cam.com/video/_eah8Lr58RQ/w-d-xo.html
That's actually a good idea
I just wanna do some workshop nasty jokes about that Xmas plug oups tree!
lots of tools needed to make two tools
And it took only one tool to need to point that out.
Nice job! Could have only done it better if I done it myself ... just kidding
You can do it!
@@Take_And_Make Absolutely .... mind over matter, right :o) My dad is a machinist and taught me and my brothers to be jack of all trades ... never buy a tool or pay for a job that we can do ourselves! I never liked that philosophy when I was a kid but I love that lifestyle now!
@@tymz-r-achangin
We live and learn!
What happened to your commentary? I enjoyed your sense of humor and just being authentic.
I don't know... some videos I don't feel like talking.
@@Take_And_Make I understand but at least give us a funny stare.
I don't see any reason to heat and tamper a file, they are plenty hard enough for wood turning tools.
The reason for heat treat was that I’ve annealed them in the forge for easier grinding/stock removal. You probably missed that part.
You might like a jooltool.
You really should learn how to cut and shape with a skew properly. It's not a glorified scraper.
😁😄😃
👍
@@Take_And_Make Thank you.
2 cycles of tempering provides no advantage on this simple high carbon steel.
No, ask any professional knife maker. You Always do two temper cycles
Your metalworiking files will last much longer if you lift the file off the workpiece after each forward stroke. It appears that you are using a file like abrasive paper and are contacting the surface on the return stroke, bad practice.... I have files that are 45 or more years old that are still pristine after a lifetime of use by using the correct method of filing. I was taught by a diesinker that was born in 1895 yes, 1895 he was good.
Thank you for your advice!
That was accepted as fact by many of us but, actually that is not true. It was completely disproved in a very thorough test posted by Fireball Tool a few months ago on YT.
en tournage, encore loin d'être un pro !!!!! pour le métal tu es plus fort
4
ลิงแสนรู้้
Not wasting my time where the content creator is either unwilling or unable to speak and articulate their process.
I’ll survive without your view bud, not all content needs commentary, this isn’t how to video, you can go pound sand!