How to replace your axle seal - 1966 Mustang - 8" Differential
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
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Things I used in this video.
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Axle Flange Gasket (2 per side required) amzn.to/3wEkkdw
Rear Axle Seal 8" Ford amzn.to/3kcmaQc
Slide hammer axle puller kit amzn.to/3c1SQrL
Rear Axle Seal Remover tool Kit amzn.to/2YkPeck
Axle Seal Installer Kit amzn.to/2Yjl9tF
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Alf's Mustang Garage is not responsible for any mechanical or technical error that you may encounter when working on your own car. You are responsible for your own quality control and your own proper repairs.
Today at Alf's Mustang Garage we show you start to finish on how to remove and replace your axle shaft seals. This procedure would be the same for the 7.25" axles, 8" axles, or 9" axles.
Very good video with good information. Currently working on a 1966 mustang restoration project with a straight 6 under the hood.
Oh awesome! I wish I had a good inline six for a daily. One of these days.
Love the channel!! Content is awesome. I've owned my 1966 C code coupe 4 speed since 2006. Keep up the great work. I have a few older videos of the 66 on TH-cam.
Awesome thanks Harold! I'll check out your videos of your car!
Additional comment here, hope can I determine if my 66 is an 8" diff or otherwise? Obviously there's something specially I can measure but what? I bought seals simply hoping they're the right size lol
It's likely an 8" if it's a factory V8
@@AlfsMustangGarage excellent, it is and that seemed the standard option at AutoZone etc. Thanks brotha, you rock
Thank you!
Great video!! I'm needing to do this on my '66 Mustang convertible. If I need to replace the wheel bearing on each axle, is that something a shop needs to do or is it possible for a DIYer to do? What's involved?
The wheel bearings on those have to be cut off and the new ones pressed on. I guess that depends if you have the tools to do so. Your machine shop should be able to handle that easily.
Oh yeah I got exactly this problem, perfect timing brotha, I wanted to know if I could to this myself on the side of the road and it seems I could, with the right tools lol
Oh ya it's not too bad.
👍
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Very good videos. Thank you for posting them and videotaping the steps. Was there another video just before this that you went into the differential cover to allow the axles to come free or if they just held on by those four nuts behind the drum brakes on the backing plate?
Thank you! These types of differentials don't have a cover. The axles are just held in with those four retaining nuts and then they pull out.
I have a 1969 convertible 8" rear end that I'm going to replace the seals on too. Do I use 2 of the same paper gaskets 55001 on both sides also?
Yes I believe its the same gasket.
Good video, when the axle shaft is out is that not a good time to change the diff gear oil? Question number 2, have you ever made a video of how to change the diff gear oil? If not can you give me some tips?
Hope you are doing well. Thanks
Well some of these differentials will have a large check plug on the back of the housing and some of them will not. If they do, we have been pretty successful in sucking the fluid out with a fluid extractor. However, the most effective way would be to remove the third member and get it all out that way.
So the axle seal can be replaced without having to remove the backing plate, correct?
Correct
Very helpful thanks, I do have one question I purchased a newer 302 to rebuild for my Mustang and have to change to a front sump oil pan. I will close the old dip stick hole in the block. The main question I have is will the older front timing cover fit allowing a front dip stick tube?
Love the video I'm doing mine now , it's a 9 inch 66 390 fairlane, when I took axles out I cleaned off a grayish antisize looking lube off the sides of the pressed on bearing and axle tube seal housing. 2 questions. First oil from axle tubes is supposed to keep the wheel bearing lubed right? Second if I put it the right amount of oil said in the shop manual ( 4.5 pints) inside the diff plug hole when I'm finished that should mean there is now the proper oil in the axle tubes right? Thanks bro I been using your video for reference
I have just had my diff rebuilt ford 8" with a true track centre.
I have put the left axyl back in as I have done many times before.
I have noticed that the axyl has movement in it I can pull axyl out a good 6 to 8mm,I have never previously noticed this before.
Is this normal.
When I had diff rebuilt also had axyl seals and axyl bearings fitted by a reputable company.
Any advise appreciated.
Craig
Is there an additional gasket on the axle bearing retainer plate? I have the inner and outer paper gaskets but someone told me I needed a gasket for the retainer plate. I can’t find them online. Thanks.
No. There are no additional gaskets. What you see in this video is what there is.
this was a great walk-through, thanks! i wonder if you think those felpro gaskets should be the same for a granada 8"? the rear is not installed and want to go through the rear with seals, bearings, and gaskets. also... can you suggest a company that makes high quality brake parts (shows, hardware, drums)? i'm concerned about "off shore" parts defects, etc...
Well I'm not Well versed with Granada but I'm guessing if you went to your local parts store, they should be able to look that up. As far as good quality brakes without getting crazy, check Napa.
@@AlfsMustangGarage good point. thanks for the feedback.
great channel sir!
Thank you! Appreciate your support.
It looks like you love buying tools as much as me, but if you stick the tip of the axle in the rear end against the seal and pry it will come out too.
So the axle seal is before the bearing. How does the bearing get oil and not leak?
Is there a seal on the bearing that needs replaced too?
Well the bearings don't get oil. They are a sealed unit.
Great Video..👍💯👍💯🏁🏁🏁
New Sub... Thank You for taking the time & showing me how to do this. Truly Appreciate
Yazmin
Venice Beach CA ⛱️ 🏁🏄♀️🏄♀️🏄♀️🏄♀️
You're very welcome
Amazon is saying that wheel seal you provided doesn’t fit my 67 mustang. They are saying 9569S wheel seal is the right one. I have a 8inch rear end. Thoughts?
There are two different sized seals for the axles shafts of an 8". There is the WCY axle code and then all others. The 9569S is the most common, and the 9161 is the odd ball.
@@AlfsMustangGarage that’s good to know. Thank you!!!!
You're very welcome
Hey Alf, thanks for the detailed video and the tool links, helpful as always!
You're very welcome!
Great video. Easy to follow. Even though I'm replacing the rear axle seal on my 1953 F100 truck with a Dana 44, the procedure is the same. Thank you.
Oh awesome! Glad it was helpful.
Just a quick comment from having done this job recently. The 4 retaining nuts go onto Tee headed bolts that you have to hold into place while tightening so they stay oriented in the slots on the back, if not, you will bend the Tee head a on the back end of the bolt! Ask me how I know!
Thanks for the video!
Thank you! And you're welcome!
Incredible video never thought I’d find something like this my son fish tailed in wet weather he totalled rim I replaced it but axle is bent I think. The wheel is wobbling when you drive. I have 68 coupe. Besides the axle were is the best place to find replacement that would have week bearing included. And pressed on. I hope we can remove it like you did and put new one and with any luck we’re back on the road.
I'm not sure where to get them with the bearing already pressed on. If you're not able to press it on, you'll probably want to take the axle and bearing to the machine shop and they can easily press it on.
On a different topic. I need to replace the quarter panel skins on my 68 fastback but it seems they don’t make them for a fastback. For a convertible and a coupe yes. Makes no sense. Any videos out there on fitting a coupe skin to a fastback. I can’t afford the price of a full quarter panel or the labour to have that job done. 🤔
Nice video! Very well explained!!
Thank you!
Excellent video. I have this job to do on my '66 Ranchero (289 A-code), and now it will be a snap.
Awesome thank you!
Thank you this video and the video on replacing the third member were super helpful. I got a 52’ ford f1 hot rod build and I’m doing a new third member installation tomorrow and disc brake conversion. Thanks for the helpful info
That sounds like an awesome project! Glad these videos were helpful!
Is there a C clip that you need to remove inside the rear pumpkin before you can remove the axle?
Not on this style. These just pop in and are bolted secured with that flange.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Roger that thanks
How often should those be replaced?
Just if they start leaking.
Good job guys
Thank you sir!
Great vid. I'm restoring a 1972 Torino and I am getting an overview on the different methods people use in restoring their old cars. I used to turn wrenches for Ford back in the 80's...but that was a while back. I'm retired now and enjoying the journey with my old car. What digital torque wrench is that?
Oh awesome thanks! That's a Snap-On torque wrench.
@AlfsMustangGarage hey there what can or should i do if i cant get my hands on a Slide hammer axle puller? (my idea was to get a old wheel and put it on the axle and try to hit it with a big hammer or something, idk if that would work)
Try taking your brake drum and turning it around backwards. Install it with 3 lug nuts with maybe 3-4 threads on it. Now use that as a slide hammer. I've heard that works pretty good. Although some of those axles take some force, some will come right out.
@@AlfsMustangGarage allright, thanks for the fast reply! I will be trying that this week lets see if it works!
Sounds good keep me posted
Just what I was looking for. Need to replace the seal in my 35 Chevy hot rod
Oh awesome, glad I could help.
Great video thanks for making it.
You're very welcome
"Hi great video. I am currently doing this job on my 67 Mustang with the 8"rear end. When I install the axle seals on the tubes I can only get them to within a 1/4" of the flange behind the seals. They will not drive any further. I am using the proper seal driver but no joy. When I install the axle the bearing now sits 1/4" out of housing. Any idea? Tried the national and timken seals. Thanks.
I'm not sure. I do know they made two different sizes of seals for those 8" ford's. Did you get the right size seal?
wow. great video. Ive got a 69 mustang grande. Ive watched several of your videos. great work!
Oh awesome thank you!
Thanks for the informative step-by-step, good lighting, and especially for using the proper tools for each job. I saw another video where the guy pried the axles out using a hammer against the brake backing plate instead of a slide hammer!
You're very welcome! And yikes! Some people can be.... creative lol
@@AlfsMustangGarage, I just installed my axles yesterday ('67 Mustang) after watching your video. Thanks again for all the great info in one place. My bearing retainers were catching a bit on the brake adjuster while tapping the axle in, so I found that pushing the 4 backing plate T bolts back a bit allowed the retainer to move around freely and slip right into place. Then reach behind and push the bolts forward again to install the nuts.
One other thing to note: If you have an inline six like I do, your 7 1/4" differential looks quite different with its integral carrier and the coverplate bolted on the back. The steps in this video will be exactly the same for your car.
The only difference will be the part numbers:
Axle Seal: National 9161
Flange gasket: Fel-Pro 4978
Bearing and collar (if needed): Timken RWF34R
Thanks Alf for another great video. What kind of rust inhibitor did you use?
Thank you. I can't quite remember but I'm pretty sure it's like the 3M rubberized undercoating in a rattle can.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks, love your channel
Thank you!
Just got a 66 from auction w/ a 302, needs a lot of love but I can't wait! thanks for the informative videos
That sounds awesome! You're very welcome.
Well done. Each step shown including comments were clear and easy to follow. Need to do this on my 65 coupe to install longer wheel studs. Have an 8 inch rear axle and a 5 X 1143.3 lug pattern. Any recommendations or videos on how best to do this. Once again very good video.
Thank you. For lug nut installation I use these types of tools in the link to Amazon. You essentially use an acorn style lug nut to wrench the studs in by hand. I hope that helps. www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-Wheel-Stud-Installer/dp/B000ETUD22/ref=asc_df_B000ETUD22/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312196001716&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12929605838847376945&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026969&hvtargid=pla-459085252314&psc=1
Thanks again.
Never watched your videos before, but I will say you are very informative and thorough, thanks for listing the part numbers and torque specs....
Oh cool thank you!
Totally enjoy the videos and the education from your work on Mustangs. Do you have a video of changing the differential from a 280 to a 380 Positraction? Would like to see this before I begin to do this to mine. Thanks
Thank you! It's funny that you ask because I just started a build series on a differential converting to a 3.8 Eaton Tru track 8" Ford. I probably won't have the videos uploaded for a while but they are coming.
@@AlfsMustangGarage that’s awesome! You have the best videos explaining and teaching how to revive these classics!
Thank you!
Just put brake drum on backwards and pull it into the lug nuts and pop that axle out, don't need a puller.
Some are more difficult than others to get out as to why the proper way is demonstrated.
Love it brother. I’ve seen many videos where they’re removing stuff from the rear end to get the axles out. I have a 93 mustang gt 5.0 and your attention to detail helps tremendously. Appreciate you putting this video together. It’ll be my first rear axle seal replacement. Passenger side is leaking gear oil. So i appreciate it.
Oh cool thank you. I'm assuming you have the 8.8 differential? If that is the case, those axles don't come out the same way as the 8". They have retainer clips inside so you have to pull the cover off to access.
great video. good camera work.
Thank you!
This is exactly what I have. Changed the wheel cylinder. Still drips. I had doubts it was the cylinder but the internet experts consistently thought that was it. Glad you posted this and mentioned it for my sanity.
Oh nice. Glad I could help out. Ya you got to watch out for those experts 🤣
Always a well done instructional video!
Thank you!
Awesome. Thank you sir
You're very welcome!
Liked the seal puller
I noticed those paper gaskets have a loop at the bottom versus just being straight across. I'm looking a catalog to get the gaskets. There are 2 different styles, one says it has the breather passage like the ones you used and the other does not have the passage (bottom loop). Why would I use one over the other??
Mine is leaky like that too, but it's watery...do I have more than one issue? Lol
Also, how do I know which seal I need to buy to replace my leaky one? I don't understand 28 spline, 31 spline, etc etc
If you have water inside your differential oil, it could be just years of moisture condensation building up over the years. It also could have had the rear axle going though some extreme weather or under water at one point? Either way, you should change that oil out. To answer your question about which seal, if you have a stock rear end, any local parts store will have the factory seals. Just need to tell them the year and engine size.
Great information
Thank you
What is seal number
Should be in the video description
Very helpful. Working on my wife's 1960 Thunderbird. doing all this in prep for the Disc brakes on all wheels. :-)
Very cool, glad you found it helpful!
I was driving my 641/2 Mustang that I've owned since 1973. It has 85,000 miles. The rear area was making noise that I heard while driving next to a concrete lane divider. I thought it was the brakes, but it wasn't. Your video has given me the confidence to pull the axle, and have the bearing replaced. Of course I'll also change the seal and paper gaskets.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!! Great video!!!!!
Oh awesome! Glad I could help!
Was the seal a little off center and damaged?
Are all 8 inch 28 spline axles
how much gear oil does the 8 inch require? you didnt show refill?
Oh ya, we didn't drain this one. It's probably 2ish qts.
Did you drain the rear Differential then refill it afterwards? Didn't recall seeing that part
No, it's not required to drain the fluid to replace the seal.
Hi..I clicked on your Amazon link but it says seals don't fit. My 66 Mustang is bone stock w online six..which I thought was what your working on? Axle size is 8 in? Also since I'm replacing seals I figured might as well do the bearings too. Basically is there a kit for all 3 parts? If not then maybe parts & brands numbers?
Sorry if this is confusing but just can't seem to figure it out..I just want to work on my vehicle. 🏁💪🏁💪💪⛱️⛱️⛱️
I can't believe he didn't replace the bearing along with the seal. The bearing wearing out is why the seal fails in the first place and most of the time you will not be able to "just feel" if the bearing is bad. The bearing will start wobbling do to normal wear which is why the seal wear out. This seal will fail in short order because he didn't fix that caused the seal to start leaking which is the bearing. I have been a tech for 40 years and have done at less 50 of these jobs.
This is not true. The bearing was fine. The seal wore out due to normal wear because it was an original Ford seal nearly 60 years old.
I hate it when people try to say you didn't do a job correctly. Mis-information/propaganda is floating the net constantly. Some company was prob trying to push sales and decided to say that seals go out because the bearings are bad so buy their bearings and fix the real issue. Or maybe someone did have a bearing completely bad that wore on the seal and came up with the idea that bad bearings is always the cause of seals going out.
Rubber seals wear out. They don't last the life of a vehicle. Just because a seal is leaking does not mean the bearing is bad. I replace seals all the time and have no comebacks. If you check the bearing and it looks good, why waste money replacing parts that don't need replaced? That's how they run up repair bills. Rear axles like on this Mustang are very easy to take apart and take little time, so it's not like it'll take 5 hrs to replace the bearing when it goes out.
I'm just glad you made this video. I've had many classic Mustangs and have not taken any video of repairs on them. All of my videos are on modern vehicles that come in daily for repair.
Keep up the good work!
Excellent video thank you
Thank you, glad you liked it!