Want more 3D print files for practical projects? Get them at my Patreon: www.patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h Here is the Dropbox link to download the stl files for this router template: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/q7ztalzvzlfhyz49jqcbe/Router-Template-Clamps.zip?rlkey=cgxefekw9q3m7wgr12qrfyskw&st=xkmuw4e2&dl=0 The files include the 3D printed router base that fits on the cordless 18V Makita trim router. The project: This is the 3rd or 4th or 5th version of an adjustable routing template I've made over the years, and I needed this one for another project I'm working on. This one is the easiest to build, if you have a 3D printer, and is quite compact when taken apart for efficient storage. The wooden parts are 1/4" plywood that are just cut into strips and glued together. The 3D printer used in this video is the X1C from #bambulab The printer is, without exaggeration, awesome and I have no hesitation recommending it. The AMS allows multi-colour printing and mixing filament types, but mainly just makes the whole thing more convenient. I have 3 spools of ABS and one spoil of PETG in there now and can pick whichever I want without changing anything.
Seems 3D printing has brought you child like joy. You might be able to design a wrench holder Into the top of one of brackets so it doesn’t go missing. Think I will try to make this thank you John
It amazes me that you print a bolt in separate parts, glue it together and then it fits perfectly. That's not my experience with 3d-printing. Being able to print parts extremely accurately, is an art that requires skill, experience and a very well tuned 3d-printer. Thanks for the video!
As someone who made a juice groove in an end grain cutting board that I also made, there's no way lol. You have to push the router against the guide sooo hard to ensure it doesn't kick out at all
Your green router base reminds me of my wife's rolling pin, which has different size interchangeable end rings to give different thicknesses of pastry. Maybe this could work for the router too; different size base plates to give different stand-off distances from a router template? Great work as always.
John - of all the YT woodworkers I follow, you have most avidly embraced 3D printing. Watching these new projects, I often wonder if you are excited to see what you can do w the printer vs actually improving your projects. For instance, in this project, how is this new version better than how you did it before? I would include "easier to make" and "easier to use" as an improvements. I ask this because I know you pride yourself in the actual functionality of your builds (such as your all wood clamps). Thanks!
In this example the 3D printed parts replace the most difficult parts to make in the previous versions, and also replace the hardware needed to built it. It's easier to take apart for compact storage and if a part breaks, it can be replaced easily. The downside is this is less durable, but given how seldom a template like this is used, I think the pluses outweigh any and all minuses.
One day soon, the 3d printer will be an essential appliance. A company like Amazon (or most likely Amazon) will sell the machines cheaply, media will arrive by subscription and instead of paying for an object, you will order a 1-time use design file. Edit: The machines will be marketed in subscription-based plans like mobile phones where the cost is spread across a chosen usage plan. Imagine the income possibilities for impulse purcha$e$ with instant gratification.
I have seen quite a few people simply flatten one side of a bolt so that you can print it in the optimal orientation and just have no threads on half the bolt. As an example, look up "multiboard T-bolt". They seem to be quite strong and may reduce the need for glueing up that bolt.
I've done that as well, but if you are interested in maximizing strength, that means maximizing thread engagement and also making the screw structurally strong. Printing it in pieces and gluing it together to get something that at least twice as strong is a no-brainer for me.
Hats off to you John. I think you've managed to unearth another niche area woodworking/3d printing. Also great work learning the software, that's been a huge curve for my tired brain. Would you say the Bambu printers are an automatic choice at this point? I seem to hear only good things. Thanks for the video.
Yes it would. And the best thing is that you will always have the original stl file to make a new, when/if you need to. Or share the model on dedicated websites. Perhaps first check to see if someone already made a model you can use.
Printing replacement parts for every day items is one of the most common uses of a 3D printer. There are entire websites (Thingiverse, Printables, etc) dedicated to sharing designs for that kind of project.
Fantastic project. I will be building one, but I’m curious how you get the green baseplate perfectly concentric with the bit? I have always found slight errors with the base plate. I tend to use bearing guided router bits which are much more precise. This same fixture could be used for bearing guided bits, and you could use different bits. As designed, yours needs a specific diameter bit.
Well you don't need to use a textured plate. They do have smooth engineering plates for situations like yours. But in any case this is a really well done video, thank you for all the effort you put into it.
Thanks for the files. Have you tried to 3D print the screws as a whole piece?. I've done screws on my Bambu Labs P1S without any issue. You would need to orient the screw with the length facing up when printing it.
John. I remember watching a video of you talking about your table saw you made… and basically talking about what you liked and didn’t like about it or what you would do differently. Any way you can give me the link? LoL
I wonder if using a threaded insert or captured nut + metal screws instead of printed threading would be longer lasting. Either way, this looks like an extremely useful print, thank you.
To maintain optimal strength the bolt needs to be printed lying down, so the printed layer lines run perpendicular to the screwing forces. Because layer lines can separate under tension. Further, had he printed it in one piece lying down he would need supports on the underside and supports often leave scarring and roughness when removed, which is not ideal since that could interfere with precision and smoothness in the threads. So he did the right thing, he maintained strength and smoothness. (Especially important for the bolt, the other parts - not so much.)
You get a much better inital adhesion to the print plate. No need for external support structure. Screws are especially important to print horizontally because of the layers in the print. If you print a screw in the upright position you can make it in one go, and it looks really good. But the screw will break very easily.
that is interessting but I be an old man with limited income so I will never be able to make this as I can't afford nor be capable of using;;;everything I do is with saws drills chisels planes sandpaper;;;;if I can't make with these tools it just wont get made;;;but I enjoyed anyway;;;think I will try to make your setup with conventional tools that require multi tool use;;;
One of the best things about the internet and actually one of the very few useful ways of Facebook, is to ask if someone can make you one of the things. I have often made bespoke prints for my fellow local people. And because I’m not a business, I only charge cost price. If I design something new, I share it on Printables and Thingiverse (of course).
that would make it to large of a head and if it tightens to a point where it is up and down in the widest part , the screw might hit the workpiece or bench preventing it form being clamped in place.
It would be too hard to grip with your fingers to tighten it enough. Printing the wrench isn't a big deal and if you lose it you can just print another one.
Hmmm I wonder how easy it would be to over tighten these and break them... the layer lines are parallel to the force applied. Perhaps printing at an angle?
That wrench doesn't look big enough to tighten them that much. It really shouldn't be a big issue. You can always reprint one if you are too heavy handed.
Don't know your age but your mind is ANCIENT and MOLDY Dude. I suppose you feel the same way about CNC?? Go ride your horse and buggy home. And throw away your computer. Bye
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
Want more 3D print files for practical projects? Get them at my Patreon:
www.patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
Here is the Dropbox link to download the stl files for this router template:
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/q7ztalzvzlfhyz49jqcbe/Router-Template-Clamps.zip?rlkey=cgxefekw9q3m7wgr12qrfyskw&st=xkmuw4e2&dl=0
The files include the 3D printed router base that fits on the cordless 18V Makita trim router.
The project:
This is the 3rd or 4th or 5th version of an adjustable routing template I've made over the years, and I needed this one for another project I'm working on. This one is the easiest to build, if you have a 3D printer, and is quite compact when taken apart for efficient storage.
The wooden parts are 1/4" plywood that are just cut into strips and glued together.
The 3D printer used in this video is the X1C from #bambulab
The printer is, without exaggeration, awesome and I have no hesitation recommending it. The AMS allows multi-colour printing and mixing filament types, but mainly just makes the whole thing more convenient. I have 3 spools of ABS and one spoil of PETG in there now and can pick whichever I want without changing anything.
I get an error message in dropbox. It says "Can’t load this file type This file type is unsupported here."
You need to click the "download" button at the top of the page - the arrow pointing down.
i really really love the intersection of 3d printing and woodworking getting explored. So much creativity to be discovered in this space.
Seems 3D printing has brought you child like joy.
You might be able to design a wrench holder Into the top of one of brackets so it doesn’t go missing. Think I will try to make this thank you John
It amazes me that you print a bolt in separate parts, glue it together and then it fits perfectly. That's not my experience with 3d-printing. Being able to print parts extremely accurately, is an art that requires skill, experience and a very well tuned 3d-printer.
Thanks for the video!
This is a pretty ingenious idea. You could use this to set up as a jig for making juice grooves on cutting boards as well. Very cool.
As someone who made a juice groove in an end grain cutting board that I also made, there's no way lol. You have to push the router against the guide sooo hard to ensure it doesn't kick out at all
John, You’re always thinking and innovating! Nice idea and design! Thank you for another great video!
Good job John
You test and then re-engineer and it turns out great.
Thank you
John, thanks for this awesome quick tutorial. I love your channel and the content so much!
Thanks for making this available John! I have a 3d printer and some mortises to cut. Perfect timing.
Fantastic work, John! Really great design! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice! That's why you make the mortises first...
Clever design on the screw! Great inspiration :)
Nice jig Jiohn! You're really getting good with that printer of yours. Didn't know you could make functional tools with it either, good to know!
MUCHAS GRACIAS ; es una idea excelente, ya lo probé y funciona muy bien.
That looks great John.
If you are printing in ABS. You can use Acetone to glu/weld the ABS pices together. It works really well
Nice... you're making me want a 3d printer. Someone might need to give up their room 😂. Looking forward to seeing the chair build.
Loving the 3d John!
Awesome stuff John!
Thank you John. I love it.
Perfect, thank you for the files.
Your green router base reminds me of my wife's rolling pin, which has different size interchangeable end rings to give different thicknesses of pastry. Maybe this could work for the router too; different size base plates to give different stand-off distances from a router template? Great work as always.
Not a bad idea :)
I like it.
Ha, did the same thing, was never good at doing it freehand.
I want more 3d printed woodworking tools and jigs !
Good idea, but I really had problems with the inserted bold. So I changed your clamb to use a m6 bold and a space to insert a m6 nut.
John - of all the YT woodworkers I follow, you have most avidly embraced 3D printing. Watching these new projects, I often wonder if you are excited to see what you can do w the printer vs actually improving your projects. For instance, in this project, how is this new version better than how you did it before? I would include "easier to make" and "easier to use" as an improvements. I ask this because I know you pride yourself in the actual functionality of your builds (such as your all wood clamps). Thanks!
In this example the 3D printed parts replace the most difficult parts to make in the previous versions, and also replace the hardware needed to built it. It's easier to take apart for compact storage and if a part breaks, it can be replaced easily.
The downside is this is less durable, but given how seldom a template like this is used, I think the pluses outweigh any and all minuses.
@@JohnHeisz thank you for explaining!
Love your videos man.
I have watched only one of your videos and subscribed.
One day soon, the 3d printer will be an essential appliance. A company like Amazon (or most likely Amazon) will sell the machines cheaply, media will arrive by subscription and instead of paying for an object, you will order a 1-time use design file.
Edit: The machines will be marketed in subscription-based plans like mobile phones where the cost is spread across a chosen usage plan. Imagine the income possibilities for impulse purcha$e$ with instant gratification.
Nice Job and a great application for the 3D Printer. You could have printed the Threaded parts stading up in one piece ;) Keep the Projects coming :)
Printing it that way would make it too weak, it would break on the layers.
I have seen quite a few people simply flatten one side of a bolt so that you can print it in the optimal orientation and just have no threads on half the bolt. As an example, look up "multiboard T-bolt". They seem to be quite strong and may reduce the need for glueing up that bolt.
I've done that as well, but if you are interested in maximizing strength, that means maximizing thread engagement and also making the screw structurally strong.
Printing it in pieces and gluing it together to get something that at least twice as strong is a no-brainer for me.
@@JohnHeisz Cool thanks for the reply.
You could replace the screws with some knee-levers or other kind of quick-fix lever.
Hats off to you John. I think you've managed to unearth another niche area woodworking/3d printing. Also great work learning the software, that's been a huge curve for my tired brain. Would you say the Bambu printers are an automatic choice at this point? I seem to hear only good things.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks John!
THANKS FOR A GREAT VIDEO
I wonder would it be possible to print replacement battery cover for toy car? 🤔
:D
Or to make a router jig from sheet metal...
Yes it would. And the best thing is that you will always have the original stl file to make a new, when/if you need to.
Or share the model on dedicated websites. Perhaps first check to see if someone already made a model you can use.
Printing replacement parts for every day items is one of the most common uses of a 3D printer. There are entire websites (Thingiverse, Printables, etc) dedicated to sharing designs for that kind of project.
Fantastic project. I will be building one, but I’m curious how you get the green baseplate perfectly concentric with the bit? I have always found slight errors with the base plate. I tend to use bearing guided router bits which are much more precise. This same fixture could be used for bearing guided bits, and you could use different bits. As designed, yours needs a specific diameter bit.
Well you don't need to use a textured plate. They do have smooth engineering plates for situations like yours. But in any case this is a really well done video, thank you for all the effort you put into it.
Ein Plastik Traum👍
Nice. How about a magnet in the wrench to hold onto the clamp screw.
Thanks for the files. Have you tried to 3D print the screws as a whole piece?. I've done screws on my Bambu Labs P1S without any issue. You would need to orient the screw with the length facing up when printing it.
John.
I remember watching a video of you talking about your table saw you made… and basically talking about what you liked and didn’t like about it or what you would do differently.
Any way you can give me the link? LoL
not that it seems to be needed w/ the wider clamps, but could you 3d print a texture on the face to improve grip?
I wonder if using a threaded insert or captured nut + metal screws instead of printed threading would be longer lasting. Either way, this looks like an extremely useful print, thank you.
Learn by doing!
Just what I have been looking for but a question, why are you splitting the bolt? You should be able to print that just fine as a whole piece.
To maintain optimal strength the bolt needs to be printed lying down, so the printed layer lines run perpendicular to the screwing forces. Because layer lines can separate under tension. Further, had he printed it in one piece lying down he would need supports on the underside and supports often leave scarring and roughness when removed, which is not ideal since that could interfere with precision and smoothness in the threads. So he did the right thing, he maintained strength and smoothness. (Especially important for the bolt, the other parts - not so much.)
I wonder if you could use a cam instead of a screw and integrate the handle into the print so they are all self contained
I started the design with a cam, but realized that the screw would be better because it would make the assembly more compact and more reliable.
What is the advantage of printing parts in halves and gluing together and not just printing them whole when possible?
You get a much better inital adhesion to the print plate. No need for external support structure.
Screws are especially important to print horizontally because of the layers in the print. If you print a screw in the upright position you can make it in one go, and it looks really good. But the screw will break very easily.
great work!
too bad for me I hate routers
btw, John, why don't you put the files on Maker World or Printables, instead of Dropbox?
Which 3D printer are you using?
Oh no, none of the special adhesive. I guess we need to get with modern times and start using the new " super " adhesive/glue. 😊
👍
Out of interest why did you make the screw in two parts?
For strength.
my notification came a day later 😕
that is interessting but I be an old man with limited income so I will never be able to make this as I can't afford nor be capable of using;;;everything I do is with saws drills chisels planes sandpaper;;;;if I can't make with these tools it just wont get made;;;but I enjoyed anyway;;;think I will try to make your setup with conventional tools that require multi tool use;;;
I understand, but you can make most of this with plywood and regular screw and nuts.
One of the best things about the internet and actually one of the very few useful ways of Facebook, is to ask if someone can make you one of the things.
I have often made bespoke prints for my fellow local people. And because I’m not a business, I only charge cost price. If I design something new, I share it on Printables and Thingiverse (of course).
👌👍😎
Who's gonna be the first person to 3d print the Pantograph?
Why not make the head of the screw flat, like a thumbscrew? Then you won't need any tool to tighten/loosen.
that would make it to large of a head and if it tightens to a point where it is up and down in the widest part , the screw might hit the workpiece or bench preventing it form being clamped in place.
@@KipdoesStuff Not if it remains smaller than the clamp height.
It would be too hard to grip with your fingers to tighten it enough.
Printing the wrench isn't a big deal and if you lose it you can just print another one.
gabari tré importan solide et èficas
Hmmm I wonder how easy it would be to over tighten these and break them... the layer lines are parallel to the force applied. Perhaps printing at an angle?
The layers are perpendicular to the force when printed as I've done, so these are quite strong.
That wrench doesn't look big enough to tighten them that much. It really shouldn't be a big issue. You can always reprint one if you are too heavy handed.
Someone always has to comment on strength and over tightening. You must have a bunch of broken shit in your shop.
@@KipdoesStuff I have 3d printed stuff that sheared. I mean fuck me for wanting to help others not waste time and plastic, right?
@@act.13.41 Or you could print a cheater bar! :) Or seriously you might be able to tap a round piece of brass or hard plastic??
Sorry. I didn't subscribe to this channel to watch 3D printing. Bye!
Don't know your age but your mind is ANCIENT and MOLDY Dude. I suppose you feel the same way about CNC?? Go ride your horse and buggy home. And throw away your computer. Bye