How to Make a Stair Tread Jig and Riser Measuring Jig Tool Step by Step

In this video I will show you how I made a Stair Tread Jig and Riser Measuring Jig. I will go through the process step by step so that you can follow along. Hopefully you can save 100 bucks and make your own as well!
Adjustment Knobs:
amzn.to/3rZOyXv
Measurements:
All wood used is 3/4" MDF
(2) 2.5" x 14" (arms)
(2) 3.5" x 10" (side blades)
(1) 4" x 24" (tray)
(2) 3/4" x 3/4" x 24" (sides of tray)
(4) adjustment screw knobs
Handbuilt is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site.

[@greglawrence742]

like the design and functiuon.Just finished making stairs, treads and risers. day late and a dollar short. Thx for posting.

[@HandBuilt]

Thank you for the kind words!

[@tombarker2369]

might want to try a 5 degree back bevel on your risers and treads as that will remove all of the end grain surface area for a nice clean fit--

[@HandBuilt]

Thanks this is great advice. I did this for my treads and risers to make them fit tighter and give the liquid nail some room.

[@dirtrider2323]

Good jig, ill be making one

[@RCHandmade]

Great video! I kinda wish I had some stairs to build now as that would be a great project. On A side note, I wish our January weather was as nice as yours! Keep up the good work :)

[@HandBuilt]

Thanks for the nice words! The weather is back to cold and snowy here now.

[@bakovichivan2705]

Just your tools are all lovest class , hard time cutting mdf with that jigsaw

[@HandBuilt]

Thanks for your insight.

[@congapilon]

Where is your riving knife for your saw. A push stick would greatly reduce the risk of you loosing fingers on the table saw. Other than the lack of safety good video. 👍🏽

[@HandBuilt]

Thanks! This is good advice. I use both of those when I can. Depending on the blade thickness I will use the riving knife, and wood width I use the gripper or push stick. The two 3/4 by 3/4 pieces I used both those safety features. Thanks for the comment!!

[@khoshabakhosho6161]

Great job.. How can I buy one? Please.. thanks

[@HandBuilt]

I wish I had some made up I could even offer. I do have plans that I can post on my website. Ill let you know when they are up if you are interested.

[@marcodeluca4068]

How do I get around cutting the slots if I dont have router??

[@HandBuilt]

You can drill the holes and use a jig saw to cut the lines between. I did this with both in the video. I tried the router on one of them to clean it up a bit but you don’t need to use a router.

[@marcodeluca4068]

@@HandBuilt The wood is 3/4" I don't think it will cut that thickness.

[@HandBuilt]

@@marcodeluca4068 at 11:26 I used a jigsaw to cut the slot.

[@marcodeluca4068]

@@HandBuilt ok will should the slot be Snugged the bolt is 5/16 so 5/16 slot?

[@HandBuilt]

@@marcodeluca4068 I used a drill bit one size larger than the bolt and then sanded it to make it slide easier.

[@michael.schuler]

Rounding over the ends of the adjustable angle pieces is a mistake. Better to terminate outside edges with acute angled cuts so your marking knife or pencil can follow all the way to edge(s) of work piece.

[@HandBuilt]

I only rounded over the top. The bottom is still a sharp 90* edge.

[@HandBuilt]

But you are right If I made it again maybe I would put a 45 or more angle to get in closer to the edge.

[@tommiewilson1064]

J B check it out

[@HandBuilt]

Get in here JB !!!!!

[@lbailey76]

No offence but if do not poses these tools used to cut with no much point

[@HandBuilt]

True, but you can accomplish this with other tools. A drill with bit, coping saw, hand saw and sand paper will do the same. We have all started somewhere and I once only had a hammer and hand saw. Good luck