I saw the original film from JD garage, snd liked the set up. Having watched your film I'm going to order the plans and build one. Thank you for an informative film
I am almost done building this same table. I was worried about the X-Axis sag at full extension that you were discussing. Brilliant idea using extra hardware to make that bearing roller support. I am going to make this addition to mine as well. Much love and support from Texas!!
@@DovRosenberg I thought this was a great idea as it reduces even more weight and material... Unfortunately thinking about it more, wouldn't this also then reduce the limitations on the length of the sheet you are cutting for example, if you were cutting say the same pattern on a 2m long sheet, the sheet fits inside of the frame width wise but for the length, you physically slip it up further after previous cut complete, in this situation, if you have the bearing running on bottom frame rail this wouldn't work or you would end up having it roll over the metal your cutting causing it to be off-center the opposite direction. If you only plan on doing smaller cuts this would be more cost effective, in my situation i need the extra length so I will revert back to the original idea here in video.
The usage of a linear bearing as roller at 11:15 will live in my nightmares forever xD But what a cool idea! It's a solution, it works, solves the problem quickly and I love it lmao I'm working on a custom design of my own and facing some of the issues described, already taking them into consideration at the design/prototype phase.
Thank you very much for your building feedback ! It is always nice to share about the achievements and know hows to solve problems on the way. I am currently in the same process, almost finished it. I had some issues and still have some.Three fixed or fixable issues, and one pending : - I made a big one, almost 2 meters by 90 centimeters (6 by 3 feet more or less) One issue i recently fixed was holting the torch cable and wireson such a range. Using a tilting tube with a hinge, when you work far from the the "home" corner, and having it get back vertical with a spring strong enough fixed this issue. - I could not find a thin steel tube for x axis either. Used an aluminium one as well. I will see soon, to which extent it is sagging, your solution may be an inspiration. There may be another issue with the aluminium material, I have the feeling it may quickly wear because of bearings friction, and not wear in a homogeneous ways along the axis, especially if you settle the round tube cutting module How do you see that hazard ? Should that happen, I guess bolting two thin steel corners along the X axis could pave a hard and longlasting road for these bearings. - I may consider switching to steel tensioners, both on X and Y axis. PLA printed does not look rigid enough, do they ? - But my main concern regards the kind of plasma cutter and the ability to cut thin materials acurately. How thin was the thinnest you cut ? Which size remained satisfying ? I have a device that is both a AC/DC TIG welder and Plasma Cutter, the manufacturer did not say if it was a Pilot, HF or a contact plasma start. My TIG arc starts with HF, and I have some arduino disconnect issues, I hoped making a farraday cage for the electronic, blinding and grounding everything, installing some low-pass filters would solve the issue, it is still not the case. I may do a bit more in the EMI blinding process, but you are yourself blind in this effort, can not see or guess properly where the electromagnetic noises come from or spread, which aditionnal work will make the difference. May be buying a new CNC compatible cutter would be more simple. Therefore my question, how thin can you cut ? I read on a corporate article the pilot arc torch is the moste CNC compatible but accurate mainly in the 1-2 inches range of thickness, what is your opinion about that ? Thanks in advance for your reply !
Thanks, keep me posted with your build. I it was a fun build and I use it all the time. The 3d printed sleeve I created for cable holder(electricians 3/4 conduit) works great and allows the conduit to pivot depending on where it is on the build table. The size table you are making, I can see where a spring is useful. The aluminum seems to be holding up just fine. Time will tell. For the PLA parts, I printed them with the exact specifications the plans called for and kept those specifications for the parts I created. Those parts are solid, and I have no worries with them. With the plasma cutter, make sure it is Non-High frequency or “blowback” and make sure it is CNC compatible or can actually be converted to work with a CNC. HF can mess with your electronics I have no problem cutting thin material. The thinner the material, I lower the amps and increase the speed. Most plasma cutters will give you a cut chart with amps and speed settings for material gauges that you are cutting. If not, you can find a chart online. When I make signs, I use either 16 gauge(1.6mm) or 14 gauge(2.0mm). Making brackets or hinges, I tend to cut with 3/16" (4.78mm) If you are having issues with electronic noise, make sure your wiring is shielded. I had a small issue early on. The noise was triggering the z-axis switch. I replaced the wire with a better shielded wire, and that resolved that problem. Hope I answered all your questions and the information helps
mine worked well in till i installed the Z axis, still does but i could never find the right post processor or some thing for the z to work right :( But I am gonna get back on it one of these days.
Very good informational video, thank you. I bought the plans from JD's Garage 7 months ago but haven't built it yet. This video gives me the drive to finish it. Love the upgrades. Thank you again.
Do you happen to have a video where you go over your workflow? How you take the files that you create in CAD and then get them over to the table for cutting?
Thank you. Good coverage. I've just ordered the metric version of the plans (after watching your video). My downside is that my current plasma cutter is not CNC compatible so I'm up for a replacement of that when I have the table built.
The bulk of the frame is built now. I messed up at least one beam and need to wait until next week to acquire the extra material. I have a decent mill with dro so the drilling was done in that (not related to the error with the beam). I have an iSV57T-180 servo motor with integrated driver and step/dir control. I'll be trying it at some point but am not sure how well the integrated driver will go with the plasma electrical noise.
First i too , have puchased the JD's garage plans, and the 3 d parts. I will be utilizing the x axis tube support you designed as well. I intend to enlarge the table some so i feel the support is even more imperative. I have 2 questions. First, can you think of any other considerations i need to incorporate in an enlarged working area ? I will be extending the x axis to leave a 30" and y axis elongation to 40". My primary concern is probably the electronic element. I am a total novice when it comes to programming and dont know if changing the dimensions will require me to make alterations to any of that . Secondly i notice you have used a much thicker walled tube then is called for on the gantry tube. It does not appear you have experienced any issue as a result. I cannot find 2 1/2"×2 1/2"× .125 tubing anywhere locally but .25 is redilly available. If i can use that then that is what i will do. Thank you for your time and insight.
JD'S Garage does a great job walking you through the plans. The size of the CNC does not change anything with the software. Try and keep the weight down on the x-axis as much as you can. If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out, and I will help as much as I can. Enjoy the build
Nice Job! I am building two (2) sets of Y-Axis to put on both sides to support the X-Axis, had planned to do it this way from beginning just for fear of gantry moving which you just confirmed is and issue. Basically just building two (2) of the gantry supports, one for each side, will have to add second stepper motor, but those are cheap enough.
I really liked your video build. Mine I ordered to day. Could you show how you illimated the use of a lap top. Look forward to watching more tips from you✌️👌👍👁
Thanks for the feedback. See how runs before adding the railing. If it's slightly off, you may be adding shims to level the pan to match the slope. Mine was just too much, that is why I used the rail
@@harbaughsworkshop I noticed your using Inskape I think to design, after that how do you create toolpaths? Are you using the "OpenbuildsFusion360PostGrbl.cps" they reference from the video from JD's Garage TH-cam page? On the lines they say to edit , they have characters there, they are not blank. Im confused if I should delete those ? I have mine moving manually and even with my Vectric aspire with the grbl.pp, I can run "air" jobs. Im new to the PP editing but the dirty stuff and welding smoke I get. I really like your band saw. Is it operated with a foot switch?
@@harbaughsworkshop I think the support rail is a great idea, overall long terms, its slightly more cost for the build but it will increase the longevity of it too. Its reducing the wear and tear on bearings immensely.
Awesome job. I purchased the plan today to build mine. I was wondering which 3D Print material did you use? The doc recommends PLA but I’m a bit concerned that the heat resistance of PLA is too low, especially for the parts close to the torch receiving sparks. Thanks a lot. Cheers from France
Looks nice working. I bought also the plans from the plasma cutter. I hope I got it this year to build. Best wishes from Germany hope to see more from you.
I love my yes welder multi process machine. I'm thinking about making a plasma table out of a laser engraving machine. I could still use the laser setup also
Since it's now been 3-4 months later... have you had any issues with spatter sticking to your X axis tube? Would you do it the same way again, or find the thinner wall steel?
great video! when you say the X axis was too heavy, you are saying that the torch is moving the opposite end of the axis, right? I am very interested in your personal changes! Whoa, I found all your 3-d print designs in the description! that is awesome! thank you... 5x thumbs up!
@@harbaughsworkshop IF you are using a washing machine pan for your water tray, I believe you can save a few bucks by buying from Vevor, Home Depot, or a plumbing supply. Not sure you are using a washing machine pan, though!
@Halfwheelhell I am using a stainless steel washer tray. I am sure you can find many different trays at different prices. The one from Vevor looks to have a plastic drain. If you were to use that one, I'd replace it with a hose bib or another metal/brass spigot or drain. On my tray, I did add a spigot on the bottom of the tray attached to a 15' garden hose to drain my tray Size was also a factor that isn't a huge deal, but it would change your dimensions
I like the z-axis touch-off feature. Is that the same as Torch Height Control? I bought the set of plans but I'm not really sure about THC or if my application requires it.
The z-axis is a probe, not THC, it probes the material and sets the torch height to the proper height you set it for per your torch requirements. THC measures the current and maintains that current by adjusting the height. If your material has a warp or difference in height, THC will pick up on that. JD's garage hasn't released the plans yet for their THC. They are still perfecting it before they release their design.
Do you necessitate such a large X/Y axis? The plasma gun/wiring isn’t heavy, and there’s no axial load, so I assume a smaller armature would be sufficient. Interesting nonetheless!
The size of the x,y axis is not necessarily about the weight or load but for more stability, and it gives room for adjustments to help dial in the gantry/x-axis. The gantry is designed to have two bearings on each side of the tube, and two of those sides, the bearings are adjustable. This is to help level the arm.
You mentioned the software in the video but I couldn't make out what you said. I wouldn't have a problem building this but I'm clueless on getting the design or cutting pattern from my brain to the table. What software and steps are involved? I do 3D print so not totally clueless, LOL.
I am getting ready to build this same plan - I was thinking of painting the rails to give it some color. Will it rub off as things travel back and forth? Any issue with metal splatter? Any clean up issues you have had? I was also strongly considering the OpenBuild controller instead of cobbling something together with Arduino. I like your cable connectors though. Any issues with EMI?? Great job
Thanks, no problems with paint rubbing off. I gave the paint enough time to cure before use. As for issues with metal splatter, I have not had any problems. I used shielded cables, so no electronic interference issues. I have no experience with the openbuilds controller. The arduino works perfectly for me. Enjoy your build
Hi from Aust. Can you please tell me why mild steel section and not aluminium for the entire frame? Is it due to cost savings, earthing ? Or to just give it some weight ? Cheers and very impressive 👍
Combination of everything. Definitely cost. It is a budget friendly build . Weight and stability using the steel is definitely a plus. Aluminum is a softer metal than steel. The steel will hold up better with the bearings running on it, especially with the weight of the x-axis. I believe I am goog with the x-axis being aluminum, but time will tell.
Nice build. When I first watched your video I’m sure you said the plan’s templates were 1:1 scale, so that you can simply use them to mark out your flanges etc, making the whole build simple, but when I purchased the plans they’re given to me in 1:2 scale, meaning they’re not worth a knob of goat turd or I’m fixing to have one hell of a small plasma cutting machine! Any reason for that do you know? Thanks.
The x motor plate, y axis connecting plates, y motor mounting plate they are in the one to one drawing folder, the tube drawings and brackets they give you the measurements you need, the 3d printed guide lines up some of the holes.
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks very much for your willingness to help there, I really appreciate it. I'm from New Zealand so there's going to be a bit of metric to imperial 'clashing' but I'm sure we could work the basics. Also, I'm not really sure when I can build this thing, it may be 9 or 10 months, or so, away yet. I just got the plans in advance so that I can mull it over and try to get familiar with the build, but anyway. No, my Motor Plates, and Y-Axis Connecting Plate plans are definitely in 1:2 scale, it even says so on the plans! I'm not quite sure what's going on there but I'm not going to be able to 'simply' trace around them in any way, like I'd hoped. ☹ I have just sent an email to them at JD's, so I'm awaiting there response. Anyway, I'm happy to take you up on the offer for when I go to build one of my own, you'll have a lot more experience with yours by then and will know if any quirks develop. Thanks again.
@@harbaughsworkshop Yes, I think you’re right, I understand that now. There’s too many folders and files etc to get my head around! I can actually be quite dumb when it comes to things like that… not looking forward to the electronics or programming the thing! 😬 Thanks again.
I used aluminum on the x-axis, and y-axis motor mounts. The torch mount, and I used an aluminum 2 inch by 2 inch square tube For the x-axis to try and keep the weight down
I'm getting ready to build. Do you see a benefit of adding the Z axis? I get it for the initial touch-off... But having the cnc do it every time it makes a new cut!? The sheet stock is going to be pretty damn flat to begin with. Am I just not seeing the advantage of the Z?
The Z-axis is nice, especially if you are using different size material. Instead of dialing it in every material change manually, it sets the height perfectly each time. Plus, if you are cutting thin material and if the material warps at all while cutting, it has the chance to pick up on it. It's not perfect but I like having it.
Have you noticed any issues with painting the Y-Axis gantry? Is the paint likely to flake away, or cause any other issues? Also, how did you ensure that the X-Axis was completely square to the bed?
No issues with paint flaking, I cleaned the metal with acetone before painting. I also gave plenty of time to dry before use. I squared the x-axis to the frame using several measurements throughout the bed. I treated it like how you level a 3dprinter and adjusted the rail I added. After adding the rail, it was close. It only took a few adjustments to zero in.
Thanks, JD'S Garage has a video that shows the setup for the Bluetooth module. I will try to put together a video showing the changes, add-ons, and upgrades I had done, hopefully soon
The 3d printed parts are pretty rigid, and yes, I added the rail because my aluminum x-axis added extra weight, and it dropped a 1/8 of an inch while fully extended. The plan calls for a thinner gauge steel. My supplier didn't have square tube that thin.
I have the 6 pin relay, I wired it exactly the way the separate page 6 pin relay schematic drew it up. The main schematic shows the 5 pin relay wiring. Make sure you are following the lines and not just the schematic. Some connections may be in a different spot on the relay than what the schematic shows. I had someone contact me recently, and that was the issue.
Awesome video, great way to counteract the issues with the Y axis issue. I'm in the process of building one myself. They have great plans. I thought I would print your STL file for the board layout, unfortunately my slicer detects 2776 non-manifold edges and will not allow me to print the file.
Thanks, that file I just threw together, not really thinking about sharing. That's the reason it's kind of rough. I can do a more cleaned up version if that would be helpful.
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks mate, that's okay on Thingverse they now have the whole range of board holders which can clip onto the rail for junction boxes. How did you go with alignment for the Y axis? In your build you bolt the 3D parts togethor, in the plans they say to first adjust the bearing half to the frame and do not remove after adjusted instead bolt togethor on the Y frame. When I follow their instructions on this I quickly find due to also not being able to source thin material here(Australia) the bearings don't run square which is why I plan to also add the rail like you did on opposite side but before I add it I would like to make sure i get my bearings running true/square.
One main requirement for a plasma CNC machine is Non-High frequency or “blowback”. It would definitely be a gamble to install any high frequency based plasma on a cnc machine. High frequency is not good to be close to electronics
Hi, nice video content and editing. I'm looking at building this machine too, and I was considering using aluminum for the floating axis arm like you did. The biggest challenge for me is about electronics and wiring. I don't know what CNC board too chose. Would you mind telling me which motor drivers and cnc controller board you (or JD's Garage) are using please? That would help me a lot. Thank you very much in advance. Cheers
Thanks for the feedback. When you buy the plans, JD'S Garage gives you a complete material list. This includes everything from electronics to bolts and screws. They also give you easy to follow schematics for the electronics.
So could this be made as a 4'x4' cnc if there was a rail for the gantry to ride on both sides of the table to eliminate sag? Printing the y axis parts twice and mounting on both sides?
If you created 2 y-axis rails and mounted both sides on a 4' x 4'. I'd add another stepper motor in series to the other side to make sure both sides were running smoothly together.
Hello, I spoke to the good folks at J D Garage and they said the bearing idea for the X axis was not the way to go. I want to build a larger table and they recommended another drive motor for the end. Your idea is simpler and cheaper. Have you had any problems with it?
I have no issues at this point. If you are going larger, I would definitely consider what JD'S garage is saying. Weight will be your issue. My build there is such little weight that the linear bearing has no issues. It's only there to keep everything level. What size are you looking at building?
I would like a 4x4 table. Based on what J D and you have said I have ordered an additional motor and driver. It's a little extra money but better to do it right the first time. Thanks for your input, Alan
I enjoyed you video very much i have watched many of these over the last couple of months. I too have limited space as your self So not looking for a behemoth of a table. I do have no cnc experience or 3d printing And im from the UK so a little nervous about trying to source parts When watching the build i thought about the second arm 1. to support the aluminium 2. Due to the sourcing issue that you could then use mild steel ? Again great to watch thanks
Hi! I recently started building it myself although I will be doing some changes. I see that you've printed it on Ender - any hints on what slicer settings you've made? A had really frustrating time when printing the bearing holders (and I still require 2 more as I will be doing double Y axis). Partially it was because of the poor cheap filament but even with a good one I still had failures and had to tweak the hell out of the Cura parameters like infill pattern, z-hop and what not to avoid knocking the printing nozzle to the part, and I still got significant corner warping without a raft.
I had a .4mm nozzle .4mm layer height 85%infill 4 wall 6 bottom and top Having and ender I learned to level the bed before any major print. Have you tried slower you print speed? I have since upgraded to the bambu lab x1 carbon. I have reprinted some of the parts because I changed the torch to a machine torch. Much better prints with the x1 and faster.
@@harbaughsworkshop 0.4mm layer height with 0.4mm nozzle? Usually people recommend to not go above 80% of the nozzle so I've used 0.8mm for the first time as I never needed more than 0.3mm of layer height. I've set it to 5 walls and 8 top/bottom but lowered the infill to 65% which seems plenty enough. However, I decided to change infill pattern from grid to lines to avoid scratching of the nozzle on the already extruded perpendicular lines. I never had this problem before. This made the print time longer also due to the z-hop that I also never used before but this time I had issues with too much material around the horizontal bolt holes which even could lead to knocking the stepper motors out of sync and disturbing print coordinates. Or even so much vibration that two of the 4 bed leveling knobs fell off. I usually print at 70mm/s, this time \i set it to 50. I used glass bed and tried to level it not worse than usual. After all tweaks the last trial gave not bad part but since I did not add raft to this one all 4 corners had wrapped, still usable but not pretty. I don't know.. .maybe my Ender is to tired already ;-) During my struggle last week bambu lab crossed my mind hehe. I haven't yet checked too much about it though.
Love your choice of the welder/cutter combo....I just got one as well, but apparently mine is high frequency start and apparently CNC machines dont deal well with high frequency start....did you have to deal with that?
Hey buddy excellent video I'm about to start my build now. I was curious because you were 7 and a half inch 2 and a half inch 2 looks way thicker than the one that I purchased. I bought mine at point 125. The reason I ask is this will be my first metal working project and I am new to all this so I'm wondering if I messed up.
You are good, I got I thicker 2 and half inch square tube out of the off cuts at my steel supplier. It still fit nicely over the 2 inch and worked out.
@@harbaughsworkshop hey man thank you so much for the reply. It really helps me out a lot since I don't really know what I'm doing I'm getting pretty nervous with almost everything that I buy in case I'm getting the wrong stuff.
@jonny4182 , don't get nervous. It's a fun build, so enjoy it. If you have questions, ask, and I will try and help. On my channel page, there is a link to my Harbaugh's workshop Facebook. Ask here or send a message on Facebook messenger if you need help
Yes, you can make this 4' x 8' table. You would definitely have to support the x-axis spanning the 4' length. The rail I added should work, but I'd change to a regular bearing or wheel. The linear bearing might have problems with the weight of a 4' x-axis
Great job, I like the extras also, I recently made one also but I went as big as I could with that design, I also use aluminium for the gantry and am showing wear now from the bearings, If I made this again I would go steel for sure, I also had the sag and used the same idea that @made-by-dad had done with his. Good job mate!
I used 3 1/8 2x10 flat bar cut to 29 3/4 lengths. I bent them in the middle slightly using my workbench table, and I then used angle iron on either side to support the slats, I cut groves into the angle iron for the slats to fit into. I did end up welding a 1/2 flat bar to the side of the angle iron to insure a uniform height for the slats.
Do you have the 6 or 5 pin relay?. The 5 pin and 6 pin wire up slightly differently. Yes, it is NO on the relay. Some relays the pin configuration is different from the schematic drawing. Double check you have it in NO.
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks but referring to the Z axis switch not the torch relay. Everything worked perfectly except for the z touch off it literally travels to the workpiece and crashes into it. Openbuilds show the switch activating but the Z doesn't stop, it just keeps traveling down until it crashes.
@rhinons7353 are you using shielded wire or 2 co conductor wire for your micro switch? I had the same issue, I switched out the z-axis switch wires with a shielded wire, and my problem was fixed. But yes, the No and common to the micro switch from the arduino. When I get home from work, I will double check know my connection at my micro switch and let you know
Hey, how about cutting something bigger than actual working area ( torch reach)? Is there any easy way (function) to do it in parts and moving sheet acording to some marks?
I saw the jd video aswell and you did a great job but it seems to me all the time and effort plus the cost of materials i think it's worthwhile to just buy the a 4x4 table already done it's only a few hundred dollars more 😂😂
Nice job with the modifications. I wish you would have spent more time on the modifications you made, especially the added roller and the added railing (how did you mount it). Also thanks for providing the STL files... I'm currently getting the BOM together... and hopefully will start the build soon. Just out of curiosity, what did you use to house the electronics? BTW, love your collection of tools :)
Thanks for the feedback, I am using clamps for now to hold the rail, and I am using shims to adjust the height. I do plan on bolting the rail in place. I wanted to do several cuts, large and small. Once I am happy, I will add the bolts. Honestly, it's working perfectly the way it is, so I am in no rush. I was thinking about reposting the video and include more details of the changes I made and add additional changes like how I added a drain to my water pan. The housing for my electronics is an old box from my work that was trash, so I recycled it into this project. I am running out of room with my tool collection, lol
@@harbaughsworkshop Definitely would be interested in a video showing more details. Just last night I was thinking about adding a drain to the pan. Would make it a lot easier to change out the water. I modified your STL for the Arduino holder, I have both v5 and v6 of the Bluetooth board and wasn't sure which one I will use in the end so I include a place for both. If you had a shop the size of a football stadium, you'd eventually run out of room if you didn't run out of money first :)
I'm just starting my JDs Garage project. Are you using an arduino with openbuilds software? I'm having quite the time trying to flash with grbl. I like the improvements you made.
Yes, I used the arduino uno with open builds. I also added the Bluetooth module. If you are doing both you need to setup the Bluetooth module first. Are you doing the Bluetooth module? When you try to flash the grbl double check and make sure you have Blackbox 4x selected and verify you are on the correct com#
Bluetooth is later when i figure the easy stuff out. Are u using the ardino v2.1.1 version? I've had no luck with the firmware on openbuilds. I did the firmware on ardino but openbuilds won't recognize recognize it. I'd like to do the THC but that looks even more confusing.
Yes, I am running 2.1.1. Keep in mind whenever you do the Bluetooth module it will wipe the arduino, and you will need to refresh again. Honestly, wiping and reflashing might be the best thing for you to try. I don't think they released the information on building the THC yet. The z-axis probe works great and wasn't difficult to do.
I put a single 608 bearing on a plate down to the chassis rail to solve the same issue. Im not convinced that a linear bearing is going to cope for long in a rotary motion… the ball races are not oriented in that direction, but anyhow… the loading in this application is so light that it might be fine for a long time… time will tell.. :)
Thanks for the feedback, I agree time will tell. The load is so minimal, that's why I was good with this solution. I use the CNC all the time, and so far, it's working perfectly
Shielded cables are cables encased in a form of conductive layer. This layer is designed to shield internal conductors from electromagnetic interference
I have been slowly buying the parts to make this happen. I have the plans and purchased the 3D printed parts as I do not have that capability. This may sound like a strange question, but how did you get your Z axis to work. I know they show on their videos that they got it to work, but when I emailed them, they were not ready to release the information yet as they did not have it dialed in.
What I did is in the plans, the z-axis probe. It touched the material then sets its height They have not released the THC in the plans yet. The THC tracks the voltage, and it adjusts the height if the voltage changes. I would guess that once they get their THC working correctly, they will release that information in their plans. JD'S Garage is awesome at updating the plans.
@@harbaughsworkshop Yes I saw that what I mean is what would it roughly cost to get someone who has a 3D printer to make them for me day a 3D printer company
The software is available online. You will have to flash the software to the device. All this is explained, and clear directions are in the plans walking you through the process. Very easy to do.
Hey mate did you happen to find the plan layout a little confusing? I purchased the plans and am currently printing some things but are a little unsure on what i exactly need. Some stuff is listed and of how many but others are not mentioned..
The bill of materials list every you need for the basic build and where to purchase these items. For the z-axis probe there is a separate bill of materials just for that in the z-axis folder. What information are you looking for that you don't see listed?
@EngineeredToDesign I know the list of printed parts does give you a quantity of most of the parts. Except bolts spacers, I printed more than what was listed, and washers for the bearings. I printed enough spacers for the bolts used for the frame and a couple of spare. I printed 2 washers for each bearing used. The torch clamp size depends on your torch. Everything else is to print the stl file as designed. The key thing is to use the print settings explained in the instructions to make sure the parts are rigid enough. When you go through the plans to build the CNC, it will show you more about what each part is for and how to put it together.
@@harbaughsworkshop thank you, I was just confused on the gantry flange/ motor flange but I think I have figured that out, the print settings are good I’m using a smaller nozzle though
I saw the original film from JD garage, snd liked the set up. Having watched your film I'm going to order the plans and build one. Thank you for an informative film
Awesome, thanks for watching. Let me know how your build goes
I am almost done building this same table. I was worried about the X-Axis sag at full extension that you were discussing. Brilliant idea using extra hardware to make that bearing roller support. I am going to make this addition to mine as well. Much love and support from Texas!!
Thanks for the feedback. Let me know how everything turns out. It's a great machine. I did a lot of cutting this past weekend with it.
Yeah good idea! I just got the plans this week and picked up the metal. Currently getting ready to print the plastics.
I put a caster on the end of the x axis that rolls on the frame of the table that holds the water table. Works grest
@@DovRosenberg I thought this was a great idea as it reduces even more weight and material... Unfortunately thinking about it more, wouldn't this also then reduce the limitations on the length of the sheet you are cutting for example, if you were cutting say the same pattern on a 2m long sheet, the sheet fits inside of the frame width wise but for the length, you physically slip it up further after previous cut complete, in this situation, if you have the bearing running on bottom frame rail this wouldn't work or you would end up having it roll over the metal your cutting causing it to be off-center the opposite direction. If you only plan on doing smaller cuts this would be more cost effective, in my situation i need the extra length so I will revert back to the original idea here in video.
The usage of a linear bearing as roller at 11:15 will live in my nightmares forever xD But what a cool idea! It's a solution, it works, solves the problem quickly and I love it lmao
I'm working on a custom design of my own and facing some of the issues described, already taking them into consideration at the design/prototype phase.
I will be making some changes to my table soon
Adding a touch more voltage will help tremendously on your welding settings. Or do the adverse and drop wire speed a touch
Thanks for the feedback
Thank you very much for your building feedback ! It is always nice to share about the achievements and know hows to solve problems on the way.
I am currently in the same process, almost finished it. I had some issues and still have some.Three fixed or fixable issues, and one pending :
- I made a big one, almost 2 meters by 90 centimeters (6 by 3 feet more or less) One issue i recently fixed was holting the torch cable and wireson such a range. Using a tilting tube with a hinge, when you work far from the the "home" corner, and having it get back vertical with a spring strong enough fixed this issue.
- I could not find a thin steel tube for x axis either. Used an aluminium one as well. I will see soon, to which extent it is sagging, your solution may be an inspiration. There may be another issue with the aluminium material, I have the feeling it may quickly wear because of bearings friction, and not wear in a homogeneous ways along the axis, especially if you settle the round tube cutting module How do you see that hazard ? Should that happen, I guess bolting two thin steel corners along the X axis could pave a hard and longlasting road for these bearings.
- I may consider switching to steel tensioners, both on X and Y axis. PLA printed does not look rigid enough, do they ?
- But my main concern regards the kind of plasma cutter and the ability to cut thin materials acurately. How thin was the thinnest you cut ? Which size remained satisfying ? I have a device that is both a AC/DC TIG welder and Plasma Cutter, the manufacturer did not say if it was a Pilot, HF or a contact plasma start. My TIG arc starts with HF, and I have some arduino disconnect issues, I hoped making a farraday cage for the electronic, blinding and grounding everything, installing some low-pass filters would solve the issue, it is still not the case. I may do a bit more in the EMI blinding process, but you are yourself blind in this effort, can not see or guess properly where the electromagnetic noises come from or spread, which aditionnal work will make the difference. May be buying a new CNC compatible cutter would be more simple. Therefore my question, how thin can you cut ? I read on a corporate article the pilot arc torch is the moste CNC compatible but accurate mainly in the 1-2 inches range of thickness, what is your opinion about that ?
Thanks in advance for your reply !
Thanks, keep me posted with your build. I it was a fun build and I use it all the time.
The 3d printed sleeve I created for cable holder(electricians 3/4 conduit) works great and allows the conduit to pivot depending on where it is on the build table. The size table you are making, I can see where a spring is useful.
The aluminum seems to be holding up just fine. Time will tell.
For the PLA parts, I printed them with the exact specifications the plans called for and kept those specifications for the parts I created. Those parts are solid, and I have no worries with them.
With the plasma cutter, make sure it is Non-High frequency or “blowback” and make sure it is CNC compatible or can actually be converted to work with a CNC. HF can mess with your electronics
I have no problem cutting thin material. The thinner the material, I lower the amps and increase the speed. Most plasma cutters will give you a cut chart with amps and speed settings for material gauges that you are cutting. If not, you can find a chart online.
When I make signs, I use either 16 gauge(1.6mm) or 14 gauge(2.0mm). Making brackets or hinges, I tend to cut with 3/16" (4.78mm)
If you are having issues with electronic noise, make sure your wiring is shielded. I had a small issue early on. The noise was triggering the z-axis switch. I replaced the wire with a better shielded wire, and that resolved that problem.
Hope I answered all your questions and the information helps
Fantastic video, I was on the fence about the plans, the fact that the cutter touches the working surface on every cut sold me on it!
Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
mine worked well in till i installed the Z axis, still does but i could never find the right post processor or some thing for the z to work right :( But I am gonna get back on it one of these days.
@user-ij8bv8eq4i what's wrong with your z-axis? Is it not probing ?
I ordered their kit a few months ago, i'm acquiring the materials as i go and i'm excited to get it together soon!
Great review!
Thanks, it was a fun build, and I love the machine. Enjoy your build.
Got my plans a couple years ago but not built it yet. What you’ve done looks great.
It's a great machine. I had fun building it. I use it all the time
Very good informational video, thank you. I bought the plans from JD's Garage 7 months ago but haven't built it yet. This video gives me the drive to finish it. Love the upgrades. Thank you again.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. Enjoy the build, I had a lot of fun building it. I find excuses to use it all the time, I love it
Do you happen to have a video where you go over your workflow? How you take the files that you create in CAD and then get them over to the table for cutting?
Thanks for sharing the build with us. I use my JD Garage plasma cutter table no stop and love it.
It was a fun build, I love it as well. I have been using it all the time as well. It's a great tool
You can add "speed holes" along the aluminum. With your weights that should not affect strength
Speed holes could work. Just have to be careful not putting them in the path of the bearings
Nice project. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing! I really liked that extra Z-axis brace that is removable. Nice solution
Thanks, Jim. I love how everything turned out. I am very happy with this machine
Super nice Build, ive been considering this machine, also nice solution, the extra rail.
Thanks, it's absolutely worth it. It's a fun build, and I use it all the time. Love it
Nice build!
I’m planning on building one myself thinking about adding inner slip leg extensions to get it off the floor a bit.
Thanks, that's the great thing about the design. It leaves plenty of room to customize the build
Nice build. I saw their channel about a month ago, looks good, a fun DIY build.
Thanks, it was a very build. I use it all the time.
So awesome. How’s it a year later?
Works incredible! I am now looking to make it larger
Thank you. Good coverage. I've just ordered the metric version of the plans (after watching your video). My downside is that my current plasma cutter is not CNC compatible so I'm up for a replacement of that when I have the table built.
Thanks, great. I had a lot of fun building my table. JD's garage did an awesome job with the plans.
The bulk of the frame is built now. I messed up at least one beam and need to wait until next week to acquire the extra material. I have a decent mill with dro so the drilling was done in that (not related to the error with the beam).
I have an iSV57T-180 servo motor with integrated driver and step/dir control. I'll be trying it at some point but am not sure how well the integrated driver will go with the plasma electrical noise.
Thanks for the update. If you don't mind, keep me updated, and let me know how the motor works out
First i too , have puchased the JD's garage plans, and the 3 d parts. I will be utilizing the x axis tube support you designed as well. I intend to enlarge the table some so i feel the support is even more imperative. I have 2 questions. First, can you think of any other considerations i need to incorporate in an enlarged working area ? I will be extending the x axis to leave a 30" and y axis elongation to 40". My primary concern is probably the electronic element. I am a total novice when it comes to programming and dont know if changing the dimensions will require me to make alterations to any of that . Secondly i notice you have used a much thicker walled tube then is called for on the gantry tube. It does not appear you have experienced any issue as a result. I cannot find 2 1/2"×2 1/2"× .125 tubing anywhere locally but .25 is redilly available. If i can use that then that is what i will do. Thank you for your time and insight.
JD'S Garage does a great job walking you through the plans. The size of the CNC does not change anything with the software. Try and keep the weight down on the x-axis as much as you can. If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out, and I will help as much as I can. Enjoy the build
@@harbaughsworkshop thank you my friend
Very cool. There is one of these in my future!
It's definitely worth it. It's a very fun build and an awesome tool to have.
Nice Job! I am building two (2) sets of Y-Axis to put on both sides to support the X-Axis, had planned to do it this way from beginning just for fear of gantry moving which you just confirmed is and issue. Basically just building two (2) of the gantry supports, one for each side, will have to add second stepper motor, but those are cheap enough.
Thanks, let me know how you make out with your build.
How about "4x4" with a shaft driving through the X-axis instead of a second stepper motor, which could get out of sync?
I really liked your video build. Mine I ordered to day. Could you show how you illimated the use of a lap top. Look forward to watching more tips from you✌️👌👍👁
Thanks, I will put together some video showing the Bluetooth module, and the other changes, and add-ons I did to my CNC.
Oops I got aluminum tube for my X rail too, guess I'll have to mod up a bearing also. Neat looking work !
Thanks for the feedback. See how runs before adding the railing. If it's slightly off, you may be adding shims to level the pan to match the slope. Mine was just too much, that is why I used the rail
@@harbaughsworkshop I noticed your using Inskape I think to design, after that how do you create toolpaths? Are you using the "OpenbuildsFusion360PostGrbl.cps" they reference from the video from JD's Garage TH-cam page? On the lines they say to edit , they have characters there, they are not blank. Im confused if I should delete those ? I have mine moving manually and even with my Vectric aspire with the grbl.pp, I can run "air" jobs. Im new to the PP editing but the dirty stuff and welding smoke I get. I really like your band saw. Is it operated with a foot switch?
@@harbaughsworkshop I think the support rail is a great idea, overall long terms, its slightly more cost for the build but it will increase the longevity of it too. Its reducing the wear and tear on bearings immensely.
Awesome job. I purchased the plan today to build mine. I was wondering which 3D Print material did you use? The doc recommends PLA but I’m a bit concerned that the heat resistance of PLA is too low, especially for the parts close to the torch receiving sparks. Thanks a lot. Cheers from France
Thanks, PLA works perfectly. Follow the settings that is specified in the plans for Infill, wall thickness, etc. The parts are more than strong enough
@@harbaughsworkshop will go with PLA then 😉 thanks for your feedback
Looks nice working. I bought also the plans from the plasma cutter. I hope I got it this year to build. Best wishes from Germany hope to see more from you.
Thanks you
Totally wild build
Well done!
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀
Thanks
Since you used a roller to support the arm reach; do you think this could be sized up to 4'x4'.
Yours turned out real nice.
Thanks, I believe this would support could handle being 4x4
I love my yes welder multi process machine. I'm thinking about making a plasma table out of a laser engraving machine. I could still use the laser setup also
Nice, let me know how your build goes
Sounds good. Should be fun. Just hope I get enough use from it
@@robinwendt5527 I am sure that won't be a problem. I use mine all the time.
Very nice build, Do you have the STL files for the changed bet tensioner for what you changed? Thank you!
I added links in the description
I see your Bauer portaband saw....is that stand and table it's attached to the one sold at Harbor Freight?
I built the stand from scrap metal I had. I will be releasing a video shortly on how I built it.
Would you mind doing an in depth video on the electronic and how to wire everything.
Thank you for the video. I am just about to build one of these and it will be great to incorporate some of your improvements.
Thanks
Could u share the STL files for the electronics holder and the other stuff ? im building a Cnc plasma cutter from JD'S as well :)
Edwin I just added links to those Stl files in the description
@@harbaughsworkshop Awesome! Could you also link the water pan ?
@@Edwinbackstrom-qb5ck added the link
Since it's now been 3-4 months later... have you had any issues with spatter sticking to your X axis tube?
Would you do it the same way again, or find the thinner wall steel?
I have not had any issues whatsoever. I am making some improvements, not because of issues but to add to it.
Very nice machine. I just found your channel and subscribed.
Thanks, and thanks for the support
great video! when you say the X axis was too heavy, you are saying that the torch is moving the opposite end of the axis, right? I am very interested in your personal changes! Whoa, I found all your 3-d print designs in the description! that is awesome! thank you... 5x thumbs up!
Thanks, yes, when the torch is headed out to the opposite side it starts to sag. Not a lot, but enough to make a difference
@@harbaughsworkshop IF you are using a washing machine pan for your water tray, I believe you can save a few bucks by buying from Vevor, Home Depot, or a plumbing supply. Not sure you are using a washing machine pan, though!
@Halfwheelhell I am using a stainless steel washer tray. I am sure you can find many different trays at different prices. The one from Vevor looks to have a plastic drain. If you were to use that one, I'd replace it with a hose bib or another metal/brass spigot or drain.
On my tray, I did add a spigot on the bottom of the tray attached to a 15' garden hose to drain my tray
Size was also a factor that isn't a huge deal, but it would change your dimensions
Excellent build,love the X axis support idea. Can I ask what size/torque stepper motors you used for each axis?
Thanks, all the stepper motor details are listed in the build material list.
I like the z-axis touch-off feature. Is that the same as Torch Height Control? I bought the set of plans but I'm not really sure about THC or if my application requires it.
The z-axis is a probe, not THC, it probes the material and sets the torch height to the proper height you set it for per your torch requirements. THC measures the current and maintains that current by adjusting the height. If your material has a warp or difference in height, THC will pick up on that. JD's garage hasn't released the plans yet for their THC. They are still perfecting it before they release their design.
it´s pretty great but not as great as soon from outside,. making it work is a hard work. well done
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback
Do you necessitate such a large X/Y axis? The plasma gun/wiring isn’t heavy, and there’s no axial load, so I assume a smaller armature would be sufficient. Interesting nonetheless!
The size of the x,y axis is not necessarily about the weight or load but for more stability, and it gives room for adjustments to help dial in the gantry/x-axis. The gantry is designed to have two bearings on each side of the tube, and two of those sides, the bearings are adjustable. This is to help level the arm.
You mentioned the software in the video but I couldn't make out what you said. I wouldn't have a problem building this but I'm clueless on getting the design or cutting pattern from my brain to the table. What software and steps are involved? I do 3D print so not totally clueless, LOL.
I software I use is inkscape, great software, once you get the hang of it you can do a lot with it.
I am getting ready to build this same plan - I was thinking of painting the rails to give it some color. Will it rub off as things travel back and forth? Any issue with metal splatter? Any clean up issues you have had?
I was also strongly considering the OpenBuild controller instead of cobbling something together with Arduino. I like your cable connectors though. Any issues with EMI??
Great job
Thanks, no problems with paint rubbing off. I gave the paint enough time to cure before use.
As for issues with metal splatter, I have not had any problems.
I used shielded cables, so no electronic interference issues.
I have no experience with the openbuilds controller. The arduino works perfectly for me. Enjoy your build
How's the right angle at full extension. Does the roller support cause drag that send the arm out of square?
I believe it was about a 1/8 drop when the torch was far right.
@harbaughsworkshop I mean is it out of square when you look down from above because of the drag on the roller?
No, it's square.
Nice build
Thanks
How was the aluminum tube heavier than the steele tube?? Does that mean the is will have worse sag with the steele as the plans call for??
I went with the aluminum because my steel provider didn't have the thin gauge the plans call for.
Hi from Aust. Can you please tell me why mild steel section and not aluminium for the entire frame?
Is it due to cost savings, earthing ? Or to just give it some weight ?
Cheers and very impressive 👍
Combination of everything. Definitely cost. It is a budget friendly build .
Weight and stability using the steel is definitely a plus.
Aluminum is a softer metal than steel. The steel will hold up better with the bearings running on it, especially with the weight of the x-axis. I believe I am goog with the x-axis being aluminum, but time will tell.
1/8” alum is 1.10 lb a ft.
.065 steel is 1.71 lb a ft.
Thank You for your video, it was helpful.
Nice build.
When I first watched your video I’m sure you said the plan’s templates were 1:1 scale, so that you can simply use them to mark out your flanges etc, making the whole build simple, but when I purchased the plans they’re given to me in 1:2 scale, meaning they’re not worth a knob of goat turd or I’m fixing to have one hell of a small plasma cutting machine!
Any reason for that do you know?
Thanks.
The x motor plate, y axis connecting plates, y motor mounting plate they are in the one to one drawing folder, the tube drawings and brackets they give you the measurements you need, the 3d printed guide lines up some of the holes.
Let me know how your build goes. If you have any questions, just ask, and I will try and help in any way I can
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks very much for your willingness to help there, I really appreciate it.
I'm from New Zealand so there's going to be a bit of metric to imperial 'clashing' but I'm sure we could work the basics. Also, I'm not really sure when I can build this thing, it may be 9 or 10 months, or so, away yet. I just got the plans in advance so that I can mull it over and try to get familiar with the build, but anyway.
No, my Motor Plates, and Y-Axis Connecting Plate plans are definitely in 1:2 scale, it even says so on the plans! I'm not quite sure what's going on there but I'm not going to be able to 'simply' trace around them in any way, like I'd hoped. ☹ I have just sent an email to them at JD's, so I'm awaiting there response.
Anyway, I'm happy to take you up on the offer for when I go to build one of my own, you'll have a lot more experience with yours by then and will know if any quirks develop.
Thanks again.
@@harbaughsworkshop
Yes, I think you’re right, I understand that now. There’s too many folders and files etc to get my head around!
I can actually be quite dumb when it comes to things like that… not looking forward to the electronics or programming the thing! 😬
Thanks again.
I see you replaced one of the shins with aluminium? I'm thinking about it too. Why only one? Did you keep the size? Is it metric or inch?
I used aluminum on the x-axis, and y-axis motor mounts. The torch mount, and I used an aluminum 2 inch by 2 inch square tube
For the x-axis to try and keep the weight down
Great job on both the build and video!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback
I'm getting ready to build.
Do you see a benefit of adding the Z axis?
I get it for the initial touch-off...
But having the cnc do it every time it makes a new cut!?
The sheet stock is going to be pretty damn flat to begin with.
Am I just not seeing the advantage of the Z?
The Z-axis is nice, especially if you are using different size material. Instead of dialing it in every material change manually, it sets the height perfectly each time. Plus, if you are cutting thin material and if the material warps at all while cutting, it has the chance to pick up on it. It's not perfect but I like having it.
Have you noticed any issues with painting the Y-Axis gantry? Is the paint likely to flake away, or cause any other issues? Also, how did you ensure that the X-Axis was completely square to the bed?
No issues with paint flaking, I cleaned the metal with acetone before painting. I also gave plenty of time to dry before use.
I squared the x-axis to the frame using several measurements throughout the bed. I treated it like how you level a 3dprinter and adjusted the rail I added. After adding the rail, it was close. It only took a few adjustments to zero in.
Thanks for the video. Can I ask what 3d printer you used ??
I used the Creality Ender 5 Plus
Thank you-I want to build one too!
Thanks, it's a great project
Nice build. Do you have the link for the Water pan you got from Amazon?
The pan I bought was the 3 BUZZLETT
28" x 30" x 2.5" Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Washer Machine Pan on Amazon
great vid just adding support to mine how'd you code in the bluetooth? over in the uk.
Thanks, JD'S Garage has a video that shows the setup for the Bluetooth module. I will try to put together a video showing the changes, add-ons, and upgrades I had done, hopefully soon
Table looks great, finished mine a few months back. I gave your channel a subscribe will have to check out your other videos
Thanks
Nice build. Can I ask, what is the flex in the gantry arm like? Those 3d printed parts, are they pretty rigid?
Just watched to the end. I see you had to deal with it by adding that bearing on a rail. Nice solution.
The 3d printed parts are pretty rigid, and yes, I added the rail because my aluminum x-axis added extra weight, and it dropped a 1/8 of an inch while fully extended. The plan calls for a thinner gauge steel. My supplier didn't have square tube that thin.
@@harbaughsworkshopbecause aluminium is light wouldn’t it be lighter? or is the thin gauge steel lighter?
@peejayem4700 I'm not sure, I couldn't get my hands on that thin of a guage steel at my Steel supplier
Did you usu a 5 or 6 pin relay and how do you have it wired up?I'm having issues with mine.
I have the 6 pin relay, I wired it exactly the way the separate page 6 pin relay schematic drew it up. The main schematic shows the 5 pin relay wiring.
Make sure you are following the lines and not just the schematic. Some connections may be in a different spot on the relay than what the schematic shows. I had someone contact me recently, and that was the issue.
Awesome video, great way to counteract the issues with the Y axis issue. I'm in the process of building one myself. They have great plans. I thought I would print your STL file for the board layout, unfortunately my slicer detects 2776 non-manifold edges and will not allow me to print the file.
Thanks, that file I just threw together, not really thinking about sharing. That's the reason it's kind of rough. I can do a more cleaned up version if that would be helpful.
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks mate, that's okay on Thingverse they now have the whole range of board holders which can clip onto the rail for junction boxes. How did you go with alignment for the Y axis? In your build you bolt the 3D parts togethor, in the plans they say to first adjust the bearing half to the frame and do not remove after adjusted instead bolt togethor on the Y frame. When I follow their instructions on this I quickly find due to also not being able to source thin material here(Australia) the bearings don't run square which is why I plan to also add the rail like you did on opposite side but before I add it I would like to make sure i get my bearings running true/square.
@burgo856 it was easier for me to have the y-axis put together loosely, and then make my adjustments.
Hello, the plans say. to use a low frequency blow back start type of plasma cutter. Is that what you found?
One main requirement for a plasma CNC machine is Non-High frequency or “blowback”. It would definitely be a gamble to install any high frequency based plasma on a cnc machine. High frequency is not good to be close to electronics
Very nice build👍
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback
Hi, nice video content and editing. I'm looking at building this machine too, and I was considering using aluminum for the floating axis arm like you did. The biggest challenge for me is about electronics and wiring. I don't know what CNC board too chose. Would you mind telling me which motor drivers and cnc controller board you (or JD's Garage) are using please? That would help me a lot. Thank you very much in advance. Cheers
Thanks for the feedback. When you buy the plans, JD'S Garage gives you a complete material list. This includes everything from electronics to bolts and screws. They also give you easy to follow schematics for the electronics.
So could this be made as a 4'x4' cnc if there was a rail for the gantry to ride on both sides of the table to eliminate sag? Printing the y axis parts twice and mounting on both sides?
If you created 2 y-axis rails and mounted both sides on a 4' x 4'. I'd add another stepper motor in series to the other side to make sure both sides were running smoothly together.
Hello, I spoke to the good folks at J D Garage and they said the bearing idea for the X axis was not the way to go. I want to build a larger table and they recommended another drive motor for the end. Your idea is simpler and cheaper. Have you had any problems with it?
I have no issues at this point. If you are going larger, I would definitely consider what JD'S garage is saying. Weight will be your issue. My build there is such little weight that the linear bearing has no issues. It's only there to keep everything level. What size are you looking at building?
I would like a 4x4 table. Based on what J D and you have said I have ordered an additional motor and driver. It's a little extra money but better to do it right the first time. Thanks for your input, Alan
Hi what kind of software are your using??
@@vb5457 grbl and open-source
I enjoyed you video very much i have watched many of these over the last couple of months.
I too have limited space as your self
So not looking for a behemoth of a table.
I do have no cnc experience or 3d printing
And im from the UK so a little nervous about trying to source parts
When watching the build i thought about the second arm 1. to support the aluminium 2. Due to the sourcing issue that you could then use mild steel ?
Again great to watch thanks
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, you can use mild steel for that part.
What chop saw are you using in the video?
I am using the WEN CM1452, I added a link in the description if you are interested
Hi! I recently started building it myself although I will be doing some changes. I see that you've printed it on Ender - any hints on what slicer settings you've made? A had really frustrating time when printing the bearing holders (and I still require 2 more as I will be doing double Y axis). Partially it was because of the poor cheap filament but even with a good one I still had failures and had to tweak the hell out of the Cura parameters like infill pattern, z-hop and what not to avoid knocking the printing nozzle to the part, and I still got significant corner warping without a raft.
I had a .4mm nozzle
.4mm layer height
85%infill
4 wall
6 bottom and top
Having and ender I learned to level the bed before any major print.
Have you tried slower you print speed?
I have since upgraded to the bambu lab x1 carbon. I have reprinted some of the parts because I changed the torch to a machine torch. Much better prints with the x1 and faster.
@@harbaughsworkshop 0.4mm layer height with 0.4mm nozzle? Usually people recommend to not go above 80% of the nozzle so I've used 0.8mm for the first time as I never needed more than 0.3mm of layer height.
I've set it to 5 walls and 8 top/bottom but lowered the infill to 65% which seems plenty enough. However, I decided to change infill pattern from grid to lines to avoid scratching of the nozzle on the already extruded perpendicular lines. I never had this problem before. This made the print time longer also due to the z-hop that I also never used before but this time I had issues with too much material around the horizontal bolt holes which even could lead to knocking the stepper motors out of sync and disturbing print coordinates. Or even so much vibration that two of the 4 bed leveling knobs fell off.
I usually print at 70mm/s, this time \i set it to 50. I used glass bed and tried to level it not worse than usual.
After all tweaks the last trial gave not bad part but since I did not add raft to this one all 4 corners had wrapped, still usable but not pretty.
I don't know.. .maybe my Ender is to tired already ;-) During my struggle last week bambu lab crossed my mind hehe. I haven't yet checked too much about it though.
The newer printers are definitely worth it, the speed and quality are awesome.
Thanks for your response, and with what software does it generate the g code?
Grbl
Love your choice of the welder/cutter combo....I just got one as well, but apparently mine is high frequency start and apparently CNC machines dont deal well with high frequency start....did you have to deal with that?
The YesWelder CT2050's plasma cutter is non-high frequency "blow-back" and is CNC compatible, so I get no interference.
@@harbaughsworkshop yah... I didn't get the yeswelder... I got a simder 🫤
Hey buddy excellent video I'm about to start my build now. I was curious because you were 7 and a half inch 2 and a half inch 2 looks way thicker than the one that I purchased. I bought mine at point 125. The reason I ask is this will be my first metal working project and I am new to all this so I'm wondering if I messed up.
You are good, I got I thicker 2 and half inch square tube out of the off cuts at my steel supplier. It still fit nicely over the 2 inch and worked out.
@@harbaughsworkshop hey man thank you so much for the reply. It really helps me out a lot since I don't really know what I'm doing I'm getting pretty nervous with almost everything that I buy in case I'm getting the wrong stuff.
@jonny4182 , don't get nervous. It's a fun build, so enjoy it. If you have questions, ask, and I will try and help. On my channel page, there is a link to my Harbaugh's workshop Facebook. Ask here or send a message on Facebook messenger if you need help
hi .. thanks for share . if posible to make this table 4' x 8'?
Yes, you can make this 4' x 8' table. You would definitely have to support the x-axis spanning the 4' length. The rail I added should work, but I'd change to a regular bearing or wheel. The linear bearing might have problems with the weight of a 4' x-axis
@@harbaughsworkshop thank you .
Great job, I like the extras also, I recently made one also but I went as big as I could with that design, I also use aluminium for the gantry and am showing wear now from the bearings, If I made this again I would go steel for sure, I also had the sag and used the same idea that @made-by-dad had done with his. Good job mate!
Thanks
I made this table cut size 50"x36". Having some vibration issues and hoping an idler bearing will help.
Do you have any details on the support you made to sit inside the water pan?
I used 3 1/8 2x10 flat bar cut to 29 3/4 lengths. I bent them in the middle slightly using my workbench table, and I then used angle iron on either side to support the slats, I cut groves into the angle iron for the slats to fit into. I did end up welding a 1/2 flat bar to the side of the angle iron to insure a uniform height for the slats.
Nice build!good idea to support the axis both way...I think it's not a good idea to suspend it only one side...heat time etc make it sag
Thanks
Is the Z switch NO or NC? Can''t get my Z working properly thought it may be the wrong switch, but I am pretty sure the plans show NO in the schematic
Do you have the 6 or 5 pin relay?.
The 5 pin and 6 pin wire up slightly differently.
Yes, it is NO on the relay. Some relays the pin configuration is different from the schematic drawing. Double check you have it in NO.
@@harbaughsworkshop Thanks but referring to the Z axis switch not the torch relay. Everything worked perfectly except for the z touch off it literally travels to the workpiece and crashes into it. Openbuilds show the switch activating but the Z doesn't stop, it just keeps traveling down until it crashes.
@rhinons7353 are you using shielded wire or 2 co conductor wire for your micro switch?
I had the same issue, I switched out the z-axis switch wires with a shielded wire, and my problem was fixed. But yes, the No and common to the micro switch from the arduino. When I get home from work, I will double check know my connection at my micro switch and let you know
Hey, how about cutting something bigger than actual working area ( torch reach)? Is there any easy way (function) to do it in parts and moving sheet acording to some marks?
I am sure there is a way. I have never tried before. The most difficult thing would be making sure you are perfectly lined up.
Nice video. I will be buying the plans as well. Thank you!
Just an fyi your intro music is way too loud.
Thanks, and thanks for the feedback. I will adjust the volume in future videos.
Молодец, хорошо получилось.
Thank you
Would it be possible to build the whole construction out of aluminium profiles?
I am sure you could, you might have to make some adjustments with the 3d printed parts.
I saw the jd video aswell and you did a great job but it seems to me all the time and effort plus the cost of materials i think it's worthwhile to just buy the a 4x4 table already done it's only a few hundred dollars more 😂😂
Nice job with the modifications. I wish you would have spent more time on the modifications you made, especially the added roller and the added railing (how did you mount it). Also thanks for providing the STL files... I'm currently getting the BOM together... and hopefully will start the build soon. Just out of curiosity, what did you use to house the electronics? BTW, love your collection of tools :)
Thanks for the feedback, I am using clamps for now to hold the rail, and I am using shims to adjust the height. I do plan on bolting the rail in place. I wanted to do several cuts, large and small. Once I am happy, I will add the bolts. Honestly, it's working perfectly the way it is, so I am in no rush. I was thinking about reposting the video and include more details of the changes I made and add additional changes like how I added a drain to my water pan.
The housing for my electronics is an old box from my work that was trash, so I recycled it into this project.
I am running out of room with my tool collection, lol
@@harbaughsworkshop Definitely would be interested in a video showing more details. Just last night I was thinking about adding a drain to the pan. Would make it a lot easier to change out the water. I modified your STL for the Arduino holder, I have both v5 and v6 of the Bluetooth board and wasn't sure which one I will use in the end so I include a place for both. If you had a shop the size of a football stadium, you'd eventually run out of room if you didn't run out of money first :)
Dobra robota .O.K.
Dziękuję bardzo
I'm just starting my JDs Garage project. Are you using an arduino with openbuilds software? I'm having quite the time trying to flash with grbl. I like the improvements you made.
Yes, I used the arduino uno with open builds. I also added the Bluetooth module.
If you are doing both you need to setup the Bluetooth module first.
Are you doing the Bluetooth module?
When you try to flash the grbl double check and make sure you have Blackbox 4x selected and verify you are on the correct com#
Bluetooth is later when i figure the easy stuff out. Are u using the ardino v2.1.1 version? I've had no luck with the firmware on openbuilds. I did the firmware on ardino but openbuilds won't recognize recognize it. I'd like to do the THC but that looks even more confusing.
Yes, I am running 2.1.1. Keep in mind whenever you do the Bluetooth module it will wipe the arduino, and you will need to refresh again.
Honestly, wiping and reflashing might be the best thing for you to try.
I don't think they released the information on building the THC yet. The z-axis probe works great and wasn't difficult to do.
How has this held up? Do you think that the X axis could be expanded with your modification with out having any issues?
The CNC has held up great. I believe you could expand with the z-axis support.
Nice project, Joe. Are you interested in using Arccaptain's machine to create videos like this?
Yeswelder!
Cómo puedo descargar tus planos ?
Saludos desde Perú
Excelente trabajo
The plans are JD'S Garage plans. They can be purchased from their website
I put a single 608 bearing on a plate down to the chassis rail to solve the same issue. Im not convinced that a linear bearing is going to cope for long in a rotary motion… the ball races are not oriented in that direction, but anyhow… the loading in this application is so light that it might be fine for a long time… time will tell.. :)
Thanks for the feedback, I agree time will tell. The load is so minimal, that's why I was good with this solution. I use the CNC all the time, and so far, it's working perfectly
Do you have a link to the roller bearing that you used with your x-axis bearing holder?
This is the roller bearing i used for the x-axis support
amzn.to/3tJsmq8
Do the plans include the z axis and the code to control it?
Everything you need to build, including the z-axis, is in the plans
what do you do so that the frequencies do not interfere with your electronics
I use a non high frequency plasma cutter and also use shielded wire
@@harbaughsworkshop what is a shielded wire, can you explain a little
Shielded cables are cables encased in a form of conductive layer. This layer is designed to shield internal conductors from electromagnetic interference
nice job
Thanks!
Got a link for the water pan you used?
Here is the water pan I used
amzn.to/3S31XvO
I have been slowly buying the parts to make this happen. I have the plans and purchased the 3D printed parts as I do not have that capability. This may sound like a strange question, but how did you get your Z axis to work. I know they show on their videos that they got it to work, but when I emailed them, they were not ready to release the information yet as they did not have it dialed in.
What I did is in the plans, the z-axis probe.
It touched the material then sets its height
They have not released the THC in the plans yet. The THC tracks the voltage, and it adjusts the height if the voltage changes. I would guess that once they get their THC working correctly, they will release that information in their plans. JD'S Garage is awesome at updating the plans.
Thank you! I appreciate the reply. I am still collecting parts, hopefully once I am ready it will be available
3:57 Hi Great build can I ask how much does it cost to make the 3 d parts?
@mikefatovic6316 I have my own 3d printer. So roughly $25-$30 and took several days to print everything.
@@harbaughsworkshop
Yes I saw that what I mean is what would it roughly cost to get someone who has a 3D printer to make them for me day a 3D printer company
What software do you use to operate the equipment?
Openbuilds control
So where did you get the software and where the parts pre-programmed to be able to move?
The software is available online. You will have to flash the software to the device. All this is explained, and clear directions are in the plans walking you through the process. Very easy to do.
Hey mate did you happen to find the plan layout a little confusing? I purchased the plans and am currently printing some things but are a little unsure on what i exactly need. Some stuff is listed and of how many but others are not mentioned..
The bill of materials list every you need for the basic build and where to purchase these items. For the z-axis probe there is a separate bill of materials just for that in the z-axis folder.
What information are you looking for that you don't see listed?
@@harbaughsworkshop just feels a little confusing with what to print as it doesn’t explain print this one for this size to me, I could be wrong haha
@EngineeredToDesign I know the list of printed parts does give you a quantity of most of the parts. Except bolts spacers, I printed more than what was listed, and washers for the bearings.
I printed enough spacers for the bolts used for the frame and a couple of spare. I printed 2 washers for each bearing used. The torch clamp size depends on your torch. Everything else is to print the stl file as designed. The key thing is to use the print settings explained in the instructions to make sure the parts are rigid enough.
When you go through the plans to build the CNC, it will show you more about what each part is for and how to put it together.
@@harbaughsworkshop thank you, I was just confused on the gantry flange/ motor flange but I think I have figured that out, the print settings are good I’m using a smaller nozzle though
What's the max thickness you can cut with this? 1/2" ?
That all depends on your plasma cutter
What about the Arduino sketch , is it available with the plan?
The plans will give you instructions on how to set up and does come with a wiring schematic
je dois utilisé un machine avec
gabarie vn ou laser ?
I am sure you can get it to work with a laser if that's what you are looking for
how often u change belts ?
I have never had to so far