I had a bad rattle while idling on my 04 rev 800. Replaced the o-rings between the buttons with some oversized ones I had from a harbor freight kit. Problem solved, runs like new. This video helped tons with the removal and install. Thanks
I just diasssembled my Freeride clutch for cleaning and inspection. The spring retainer cup alignment mark was one bolt hole off at the 8:00 position. This is the first disassembly of the clutch so it came that way from the factory. Should I reposition it with to align with the other marks or leave it the way I found it when I go back together?
I just picked up a 2008 ski-doo rev xp 800 snowmobile and it was missing one of the calibration screws. I picked up a replacement screw, washer, and nut. I put it in and set it to a three like the other ones were. There is no need for me to pull the clutch all apart, correct? It looks like the ramps just push back and forth. Or am I missing something? I think there was maybe supposed to be a washer that goes on the inside?
Great vid. Thanks for the upload. Da wife's 2014 600 Adrenaline clutch is rattling something wicked. I figure it's very similar to the one in this vid?
What is wrong if I cant split the primary like you show on a 2016 Lynx Boondocker 800 ETEC...?!? I thread in the tool 15mm and use a small sledgehammer.... and nothing... Even with harder smashes nothing happens, what is wrong, is 2016 Tra different?
Generally when we see moderate to significant wear we change out the ramps. They will still function however their efficiency and tendency to wear other parts is compromised. Preventative maintenance like this is a good way to get you to to the end of the lake quicker than your buddy.
Very good video! How much play is acceptable between the lower clutch arm bushing and the pin? I assume just side-to-side play without any rocking motion?
How bad is it if I forgot to mark my clutch and might not have put it back together right? And this is not the clutch I have mine is off of a Polaris indy 1993 500
great video , I have 2014 800 etc , I dont have a clutch puller tool , what size bolt can I use to make this ? or you recommend the place to buy one ? I have 4000 km on the sled and never service the clutch yet .
Mike Krukowski, we use the primary clutch removal tool from brp so if you care to do it that way go to your local brp dealer and pick it up. If you don't have that available TH-cam search clutch removal water trick it will get the job done!
Hello! I have a problem! snowmobile installed clutch like 2009 Etec at idle a knock is heard in the clutch, sometimes disappears. after removal and inspection, wear of parts was minimal. Please tell me why a knock may appear.
But the downside is if you check it, you would have to buy the special grease they use for that bearing. Also the seal on the otherside of the bearing could break if you apply to much grease.
Shaine MacDonald in this particular video we're working on the primary. It's not terribly difficult. Just ensure you take your time and maybe a photo or 2 prior to disassembly so you have a reference point.
Brock Kleiman unfortunately as you can imagine clutch tuning isn't as easy as switching out one component. Every change you make will have an effect on the rest of your shift or engagement action. If you really want to do some clutch tuning I recommend purchasing and reading the Olav Aaen Clutch Tuning handbook. It's the bible of the cluth world. If that's not your thing then look at purchasing a clutch kit from a reputable manufacturer like Cudney Racing. He's already done the calculations and will get you pointed in the right path. Check him out at www.cudneyracing.com or 519-682-0626
Raw Fuel TV I have already ordered a Dynamo Joe clutch kit and installed the adjustable weight pins, but I don't know what will happen when I use heavier or lighter weights
Brock Kleiman because the answer to this question is quite lengthy. I found an article on what the weights do. As well as the effects they have on the clutch itself and how the primary and secondary interact with each other. Check it out here. It's not specifically written for a modern day Ski DOO clutch. But the principals remain the same for snowmobile clutches in general. www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/tuning/tuning.htm Steve
mikeracer27 you'll need to look for the factory punch marks, arrows, or small half moon cut outs for alignmemt. And they won't line up 100% but they'll be extremely close depending on you application of course.
I have two lever arms that are really tight and do not move freely at all on my 800 etec clutch. Any suggestions on what might need to be done to remove them? Seems like they are pressed into the slot somehow once I took out the set bolts. I hear on your video the levers clinking easily as you rotate the cluth... only one of mine is doing this at the moment. Thanks.
During the disassembly process you'll see all the bushings/orings/spacers. There are 6 o-rings on your buttons (shoes, sliders) the buttons themselves, 6 spacers, the pins etc... the video looks at all of those components. If you still have problems locating them, check out the"owners" section of the Ski-Doo web site. Look in the parts section, find your model and you'll be able to view the clutch and all of its components in its entirety.
Thank you for this, it was most helpful when I did my own service on my TRA. You should do a vid on the secondary.
Very well illustrated and explained. And fast forwarded through all the loosening and tightening sequences. thanks
Great Video! Definitely helps take away the scariness of tearing apart your primary.
Love the video and the fact that the starter gear said made in the USA .
I had a bad rattle while idling on my 04 rev 800. Replaced the o-rings between the buttons with some oversized ones I had from a harbor freight kit. Problem solved, runs like new. This video helped tons with the removal and install. Thanks
this also helped out others. thanks very much
Excellent video plenty of lighting. Not all of the other non-valued added crap. Very well explained. Thank you!! 🏆🏆🏆
This is a GREAT video! Excellent quality and easy to understand! THANK YOU!
Great video. Helps a lot with what I have to do! Thanks for the info.
Thank you! Great help for working on my clutch.
That is just the information I needed
Excellent tutorial!
Awesome video, helped a lot with my 1997 mxz.
Great info and video quality. One of the best I've seen. Maybe just lose the music during the r&r process
Excellent vid..
Thanks! Can you make a video for secondary clutch removal off sled , inspection disassembly and assembly!
Thanks man you saved me 1000$!
I just diasssembled my Freeride clutch for cleaning and inspection. The spring retainer cup alignment mark was one bolt hole off at the 8:00 position. This is the first disassembly of the clutch so it came that way from the factory. Should I reposition it with to align with the other marks or leave it the way I found it when I go back together?
Where are the springs behind the button slides?
my sheathes wont seperate… i had super big struggles getting the clutch off the sled aswell
I just picked up a 2008 ski-doo rev xp 800 snowmobile and it was missing one of the calibration screws. I picked up a replacement screw, washer, and nut. I put it in and set it to a three like the other ones were. There is no need for me to pull the clutch all apart, correct? It looks like the ramps just push back and forth. Or am I missing something? I think there was maybe supposed to be a washer that goes on the inside?
Great vid. Thanks for the upload. Da wife's 2014 600 Adrenaline clutch is rattling something wicked. I figure it's very similar to the one in this vid?
What size nut and washers did you use to make the tool?
On the 08 I put the two halves of the clutch together how do I know if it is on all the way mine has some play
Real good
My clutch has a spring that goes in before each button
Where can I find just the spring retainer part that is mentioned at 12:43? I can’t find anything online. Does it possibly go by a different name?
What is wrong if I cant split the primary like you show on a 2016 Lynx Boondocker 800 ETEC...?!?
I thread in the tool 15mm and use a small sledgehammer.... and nothing... Even with harder smashes nothing happens, what is wrong, is 2016 Tra different?
can someone explain to me how the belt turns and how it grips on the primary clutch and secondary clutch if theres is no grab for the inside belt.
Wondering what is acceptable on the ramps. I definitely see wear lines, but not sure what is acceptable
Generally when we see moderate to significant wear we change out the ramps. They will still function however their efficiency and tendency to wear other parts is compromised.
Preventative maintenance like this is a good way to get you to to the end of the lake quicker than your buddy.
Excellent video, so those roller arms… would you have to replace the entire arm or is there a bushing that can be replaced?
Is the spring retainer on all TRA clutches? If that is the case mine is missing
What if my movable sheath is refusing to separate?...
Very good video! How much play is acceptable between the lower clutch arm bushing and the pin? I assume just side-to-side play without any rocking motion?
Yup. You're correct. Slight side to side is acceptable but rocking can often lead to sticking which wears parts and reduces efficiency.
Great video!!
I have a 1996 ski doo summit 670, and want to try to pull the clutch. Is there a lot of differences? The outside appears similar.
What if it doesn't come apart when you hit it with a hammer? Then what? Thanks
Is it necessary to have my primary clutch balanced after a rebuild? Thank you.
No
How bad is it if I forgot to mark my clutch and might not have put it back together right? And this is not the clutch I have mine is off of a Polaris indy 1993 500
I didint take the whole thing apart just the main cover got stopped by the spider nut that I did8nt know was there
Whats the good place to get your replacement parts? I m working on 2014 Summit 800 , thanks
Dennis kirk
great video , I have 2014 800 etc , I dont have a clutch puller tool , what size bolt can I use to make this ? or you recommend the place to buy one ? I have 4000 km on the sled and never service the clutch yet .
Mike Krukowski, we use the primary clutch removal tool from brp so if you care to do it that way go to your local brp dealer and pick it up. If you don't have that available TH-cam search clutch removal water trick it will get the job done!
Hello!
I have a problem!
snowmobile installed clutch like 2009 Etec
at idle a knock is heard in the clutch, sometimes disappears.
after removal and inspection, wear of parts was minimal.
Please tell me why a knock may appear.
Have you checked your bearing behind the primary clutch?
But the downside is if you check it, you would have to buy the special grease they use for that bearing. Also the seal on the otherside of the bearing could break if you apply to much grease.
Is this the Primary or Secondary clutch? I'm assuming the former.
Shaine MacDonald in this particular video we're working on the primary. It's not terribly difficult. Just ensure you take your time and maybe a photo or 2 prior to disassembly so you have a reference point.
for the weights, what weight should I use for explosive acceleration
Brock Kleiman unfortunately as you can imagine clutch tuning isn't as easy as switching out one component. Every change you make will have an effect on the rest of your shift or engagement action. If you really want to do some clutch tuning I recommend purchasing and reading the Olav Aaen Clutch Tuning handbook. It's the bible of the cluth world. If that's not your thing then look at purchasing a clutch kit from a reputable manufacturer like Cudney Racing. He's already done the calculations and will get you pointed in the right path. Check him out at www.cudneyracing.com or 519-682-0626
Raw Fuel TV I have already ordered a Dynamo Joe clutch kit and installed the adjustable weight pins, but I don't know what will happen when I use heavier or lighter weights
Brock Kleiman because the answer to this question is quite lengthy. I found an article on what the weights do. As well as the effects they have on the clutch itself and how the primary and secondary interact with each other. Check it out here. It's not specifically written for a modern day Ski DOO clutch. But the principals remain the same for snowmobile clutches in general.
www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/tuning/tuning.htm
Steve
ashiq
Brock Kleiman
Hi I just removed the clutch but forgot to make marks.. how to do a balance ? thanks
mikeracer27 you'll need to look for the factory punch marks, arrows, or small half moon cut outs for alignmemt. And they won't line up 100% but they'll be extremely close depending on you application of course.
wheres the bushing , your clutch seems to be missing the internal bushing.
How much HP can this clutch handle
Can handle as much hp as the belt and chaincase will take
I've seen em take 350+hp
I have two lever arms that are really tight and do not move freely at all on my 800 etec clutch. Any suggestions on what might need to be done to remove them? Seems like they are pressed into the slot somehow once I took out the set bolts. I hear on your video the levers clinking easily as you rotate the cluth... only one of mine is doing this at the moment. Thanks.
Good video but the music is stressing me out
hi i have a problem where are all bussings tra 3?
During the disassembly process you'll see all the bushings/orings/spacers. There are 6 o-rings on your buttons (shoes, sliders) the buttons themselves, 6 spacers, the pins etc... the video looks at all of those components. If you still have problems locating them, check out the"owners" section of the Ski-Doo web site. Look in the parts section, find your model and you'll be able to view the clutch and all of its components in its entirety.
Why the stupid background music? Made me seek this info elsewhere...
The best way to deal with a ski doo is run into open water and tell the police it was stolen problem solved
Excellent tutorial! Many thanks