Excellent progress, its coming together nicely. Friendly tip, when you are boring a taper for a collet, upon blueing to check the contact pattern using a collet, you need to put something in the collet at its largest size (ie. If its an 11 - 12, then a 12mm shank). Without this the collet will just conform to whatever you have bored. I think you have enough stock to re-skim using this method and it would probably reduce your run-out a bit. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
@@thehobbymachinistnz Not sure if I can post a link here, but you can just go to our Homemade Tools subforum, and scroll through to several days ago and you should see it.
When you were checking the taper with the collet, blue at top & bottom, it could be because the grinder was slightly set off centre, a barrel shape is produced, thanks for sharing a very interesting video 🇬🇧👍.
New subscriber. Very nice build so far. Enjoying this series. To be frank, you're making a tool that's mountains better than the one could buy even if you wanted to overpay for it.
Thanks for the sub. Yes, it is coming along great and everything works nice and smoothly. I have almost finished this build so part 3 will be out in a few days.
Gday, great job so far and it’s going to be a great tool when it’s all done, the steady rest is working a treat as well, brilliant video as always mate, cheers
Just a key of advice with carbide and higher carbon level steels, if you turn up your rpm and feed rate to break a small, proper chip (c's and sixes), you'll pull the heat out in the chips and not the work piece. It will also turn down faster and leave a superb finish.
This is a very interesting series and I look forward to Part 3! When you make a new knurling tool, will you stay with the "pressure knurling set-up" or change to a "scissor knurling" tool?
Hi Bob, thanks for watching. I plan to build a scissor type knurling tool when I do that project. I don't like these pressure types as they put a lot of load on the cross slide.
Thanks for your question. This only has thrust bearings. The spindle and body are machined for a nice bearing fit. The thrust bearings are AXK4565 45x65x5mm. I got them from Aliexpress for just over $5 NZ (including shipping). That included the bearing and the two washers. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004070892893.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.45.21ef1802IcYWp3 I priced these in NZ locally and the bearing was over $20, then you had to buy the washers separate at $13 a pair. Getting close to $70 for bearings for this project was too much. We get a bit ripped off here in NZ and I understand why a lot of people purchase through places like Aliexpress and Amazon.
Good morning hopefully the crappy weather is all over up in Auckland my name is Dale I'm from Christchurch. I've been watching your TH-cam channel for probably 6 months off and on I thoroughly enjoyed your build on the bender and related tolling. My question is where do I find the plans on the internet that you used any help would be much appreciated
Hi Dale, we had a good day yesterday, but I think we are in for more bad weather next week unfortunately. For the plans, if you go to google and search for Hossfeld bender plans.pdf The first result should take you to a pdf of the plans.
Generally, all the Chinese ER collets are useful for are paper weights and not much else. Chinese ER collet holders aren't any better. You can buy one of the Chinese $30 ER sets as long as you realize that you are buying a pig in a poke. If the runout is less than 0.005" consider yourself lucky. Buy from suppliers who have a real address and guarantee their collets and holders to a given specification. Yes, a set of guaranteed collets will set you back ~$200 but think of all the new curse words you won't have to learn. Cheers from NC/USA
Hi, thanks for your comments. Yes, I was probably lucky with my collets. There are two issues here in NZ regarding collets (and most other tooling). Firstly it is hard to find good quality branded collets (I have not found any in NZ to date). Second, a set of ER40 collets from a popular retailer like Machinery House is $700. Even then they state that the collets are made in Taiwan.
Alloy steels finishes are great, but the hot stringy blue birds nest not so much. Nice progress 👌
Thanks 👍
This is a great video. I have learned much from it and appreciate the effort you put into it. Will keep following your progress. Thank you
No problem, thanks for your comments.
So interesting your handy work, that I want too but I’m not sure how I can or not because I haven’t machine make 😊😊😊
Thank you for your comments.
Excellent job, 👍👍👍
Thank you very much.
Good work, and well done.
Thanks for the visit.
well done ...excellent job
Many thanks.
Excellent progress, its coming together nicely. Friendly tip, when you are boring a taper for a collet, upon blueing to check the contact pattern using a collet, you need to put something in the collet at its largest size (ie. If its an 11 - 12, then a 12mm shank). Without this the collet will just conform to whatever you have bored. I think you have enough stock to re-skim using this method and it would probably reduce your run-out a bit. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, thanks for the tip. I had not thought of that but it makes perfect sense. I will do a recheck to see where we are at with the angle.
Nice project. We shared this video (and part 1) on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Hi, thanks. Do you have a link where you shared the video? I did not see it in the last few emails I received from HomemadeTools.net.
@@thehobbymachinistnz Not sure if I can post a link here, but you can just go to our Homemade Tools subforum, and scroll through to several days ago and you should see it.
When you were checking the taper with the collet, blue at top & bottom, it could be because the grinder was slightly set off centre, a barrel shape is produced, thanks for sharing a very interesting video 🇬🇧👍.
No problem. Thanks for your comments.
New subscriber. Very nice build so far. Enjoying this series. To be frank, you're making a tool that's mountains better than the one could buy even if you wanted to overpay for it.
Thanks for the sub. Yes, it is coming along great and everything works nice and smoothly. I have almost finished this build so part 3 will be out in a few days.
Excellent project, great job. Thanks for sharing.
No problem, thanks for watching.
Gday, great job so far and it’s going to be a great tool when it’s all done, the steady rest is working a treat as well, brilliant video as always mate, cheers
Thanks for your comments Matty.
Just a key of advice with carbide and higher carbon level steels, if you turn up your rpm and feed rate to break a small, proper chip (c's and sixes), you'll pull the heat out in the chips and not the work piece. It will also turn down faster and leave a superb finish.
Great video btw!
Yeah he might be lacking a bit of horsepower to get c’s and 6’s
Thanks for the tip.
This is a very interesting series and I look forward to Part 3! When you make a new knurling tool, will you stay with the "pressure knurling set-up" or change to a "scissor knurling" tool?
Hi Bob, thanks for watching. I plan to build a scissor type knurling tool when I do that project. I don't like these pressure types as they put a lot of load on the cross slide.
Thank you for the vid! I’d be interested to know the size, type and source of bearings you used.
Thanks for your question. This only has thrust bearings. The spindle and body are machined for a nice bearing fit.
The thrust bearings are AXK4565 45x65x5mm. I got them from Aliexpress for just over $5 NZ (including shipping). That included the bearing and the two washers. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004070892893.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.45.21ef1802IcYWp3
I priced these in NZ locally and the bearing was over $20, then you had to buy the washers separate at $13 a pair. Getting close to $70 for bearings for this project was too much. We get a bit ripped off here in NZ and I understand why a lot of people purchase through places like Aliexpress and Amazon.
@@thehobbymachinistnz Thank you for the reply and information, it's appreciated!
Good morning hopefully the crappy weather is all over up in Auckland my name is Dale I'm from Christchurch. I've been watching your TH-cam channel for probably 6 months off and on I thoroughly enjoyed your build on the bender and related tolling. My question is where do I find the plans on the internet that you used any help would be much appreciated
Hi Dale, we had a good day yesterday, but I think we are in for more bad weather next week unfortunately.
For the plans, if you go to google and search for
Hossfeld bender plans.pdf
The first result should take you to a pdf of the plans.
Generally, all the Chinese ER collets are useful for are paper weights and not much else. Chinese ER collet holders aren't any better. You can buy one of the Chinese $30 ER sets as long as you realize that you are buying a pig in a poke. If the runout is less than 0.005" consider yourself lucky.
Buy from suppliers who have a real address and guarantee their collets and holders to a given specification. Yes, a set of guaranteed collets will set you back ~$200 but think of all the new curse words you won't have to learn.
Cheers from NC/USA
Hi, thanks for your comments. Yes, I was probably lucky with my collets.
There are two issues here in NZ regarding collets (and most other tooling). Firstly it is hard to find good quality branded collets (I have not found any in NZ to date). Second, a set of ER40 collets from a popular retailer like Machinery House is $700. Even then they state that the collets are made in Taiwan.