Thank you all so much for the amazing feedback! 🥳 I truly appreciate every comment and suggestion-it means the world to me! I want to apologize for the audio quality on this one. I decided to give CapCut a try instead of Adobe, and while it made editing faster, it seems I sacrificed the final audio quality in the process. Lesson learned! I promise the audio will be on point in the next video. 🎙✨ Speaking of the next video, you’ve given me some incredible ideas for a follow-up, and I can’t wait to get started! Stick around-there’s plenty more coming your way! 🚀
Noted! I'm gonna do my audio editing in premiere next time. I did this whole video in CapCut and I did feel I lost some granular control of the audio by doing that.
I've used just about every color of the Panchroma line. Early on before I even knew that it wasn't just regular PLA I was using the Polyterra presets on my X1C's and my A1's and it always came out amazing. I was printing on G10 plates with no glue and never had an issue except for the white color. I had to use my textured PEI with Vision Miner Nano applied for adhesion and release and it worked great. I noticed when I did print using a high-speed profile it made the model come out glossy and I don't care for that at all. Using the Polyterra profile it has a nice matte finish. Great video.
@Polymaker thanks for supporting this channel! This was a great review, and I hope you continue to work with KHA! Send some to @NoizieWorks if you get a chance! We LOVE our Polymaker filaments!!
I'm thinking the opposite. Polymaker CoPE costs a decent amount less than Polymaker PLA. But at the same time, you're not wrong because you can get even cheaper PLA to use as a support interface.
I have to resort to a wide brass nozzle (0.4mm but the nozzle is thick to the tip) and 35mm/s print speeds with only light part cooling for overhangs to get that kind of layer adhesion. And since my printer's enclosed and also in a walk in closet with a HEPA filter that is running anytime the printer is on i have no issues with toxic flumes (tons of ABS/ASA/PC printing). I just ordered one because of your vid, thanks! Pro Tip to remove prints stuck on PEI/Glass beds, heat the bed to 100c and it'll come off but might ruin your print but it won't mess up your build plate. I would let it cool completely then heat the bed and try to remove it as it passes the original bed temp you printed it at, that way the part doesn't heat up enough to weaken and you'll have both the bed and your print. I mostly use one of Creality's carbon borosilicate glass beds because they where $2 at Micro Center for a 310x315mm bed that i needed for a 300x300mm build area on my main printer. Narrow temps ranges to get the prints to stick, but once you get it down it's amazing for engineering prints.
Been using a bit of this stuff because it is (or was) on a decent sale and it definitely holds up so far. You have to treat it slightly different than PLA, but it's great once you've got it figured out. The bed adhesion IS crazy, but lowering the temp to somewhere in the 40s alleviates that issue. I also DEFINITELY had to dry all the rolls I recieved.
What's the deflection temperature of this filament? Meaning what temperature can it handle before it's softens also does it creep like PLA or is it stable like PETG?
It's definitely more stable than PLA and I'd say even PETG. On my multi-material test the PETG lifted from the bed in the corners and the COPE stayed perfectly adhered. As for the deflection temperature, that I'm not sure but I'm gonna ask Polymaker for a TDS.
I have asked Polymaker this a couple times since Dec, they would answer some of my questions, but always ignored this one. Same with is it hygroscopic? Best I have got it this is for pretty things, and not structural. They allude to as much in the video they just released on it as well, but still no info on heat or water.
@@HackMonkey well that's annoying because unless it has a TG equal or better than PETG it's useless to me I live at 7,000 ft in New Mexico and most of my prints go outdoors so unless it can handle radiative heating meaning it has a pretty decent TG it's useless to me.
@HackMonkey as for sticking to the bed try some vision minor nano polymer I no longer have lifting problems with PETG that stuff is some kind of witchcraft and it's very effective and for the less crazy distortion materials like PLA and p e t g as long as you allow it to cool itself releases and you don't have to reapply it I am very very impressed with it I print all of my stuff in PETG since it goes outdoors and where I live radiation heating is very high so even when it's relatively cool out parts warp but PETG seems to handle it fine.
Nice I'll have to check that out. I haven't made the switch to pure orca yet but as I keep adding non-Bambu machines to my setup it's definitely gonna happen sooner than later
In general COPE is, but a lot of people in the comments are telling me that this polymaker variation might not be as durable in the regards as the others. So I think some additional testing is needed. That said one of my main reasons for buying this material was because it's supposed to have better UV and weather resistance than PETG or even ASA, and I had fully intended to use it on projects that would be outdoors or in high humidity environments, like bathrooms.
Thanks for sharing. I picked some up for testing when it was$12 a roll and had some issues dialing it in. I found it to be super brittle if still warm (taking off the bed too early) but very strong once cured. I’ll try your profile and give it another go. There’s just been very little coverage of this material.
I used the polymaker pla profile in bambu stuido profile for CoPE no issues, and yes super adhesion with the pei plate. Over all i love the stuff I haven't had any issues with it. Also just picked up one of the blue Biqu plates testing with that now so far so good.
I'm gonna try again with PLA profiles since polymaker themselves are saying it should work. But the temperature settings for the bed and nozzle that they recommend are higher than PLA settings so their kinda contradicting themselves.
I know there's a couple other brands that produce it but they're like four times the price. I hope you are able to find the polymaker stuff since it's definitely the most affordable!
Yeah I noticed that... But then again they're recommending people print with PLA settings and not the actual settings they recommend on the spool... I couldn't even get it to stick to the bed with PLA settings so 🤷🏻
You’ve got a good head for testing. Would love to see you make some rigs and do some CNC kitchen type of tests. I’d like to see more close-ups of the print quality and the breaks. Keep putting out great content!
Thanks! I'm totally down for that. I had a 3rd camera angle for the reviews but I lost the footage somehow. I'm going to improve my camera and file management setup very soon!
@@timothymusson5040 oh I know. I've worked on many a set for many creators big and small over the years. Would've been nice to not have it happen on my first video in like 3 years 😂
Great video. Looks like a great new material to consider. How does it handle being outdoors or in hot sunny days or inside a car? How does the cost compare to PLA and PETG? Looking forward to more videos on this filament.
So I've been told CoPE has BETTER Weather and UV resitance that PETG or even ASA but apparently that statement was referring to the Hatchbox and Fillamentum stuff that's like 3x the price. I think I'll have to do some comparisons as that was one of the main aspects of this material I wanted to explore... using it for outdoor projects as a replacement for PETG.
I have the BL P1s and like ASA and PETG-CF for most builds. I am an engineer and mostly build functional items. Also a HAM radio operator, N8VY. Usually, I need strength, impact resistance and the proper amount of flexibility. We will see about CoPE, but your comment about UV and humidity resistance makes it interesting. Thank you.
Yeah I'm gonna test UV and weather resistance next and I might even invest in a full testing rig to get some numbers on the mechanical strength. Then I'll put it up against CoPE from Filamentum and Hatchbox
When I get the full data sheet from them I'll update that in a follow up video. My guess right now is it's denser. I can also do a test where I extrude X mm of material and weigh the output for comparison
i once had supports generating true the part in bambu studio and i didnt realize it until i had printed the part whit petg... those supports were hard to remove
How do I import your custom profile to Babmu studio? I downloaded the .json file. In Bambu studio I did File - Import - Import configs, selected your .json for Bambu and I get " There are 0 configs imported. (Only non-system compatible configs)"???
I've used this almost since it came out and I'm still iffy about it. The biggest issue is just the bed adhesion which, as you showed, can be poor to (in my experience) nearly impossible to release if you have a large enough first layer. As I prefer textured PEI as a general-purpose plate, the only decent setting I found for the P1S I mostly use with Panchroma is to reduce the bed temp to 35C for a Goldilocks level of adhesion.
Did you wind up making your own material profiles for it or are you getting by using something preset on the machine? I as well had no issues with it getting too stuck to my textured PEI plate for bambu, but my text or PEI plate for a snap maker It definitely over adhered to and I and very glad I didn't damage that plate because that's a pricey one haha.
@@KHAEntertainment At this point, I don't remember if I used Bambu PLA or Generic PLA High Speed (I think the latter) as the base preset. Like you, I did a lot of experimenting and since I wasn't doing it for science, I didn't always write down what I changed either in filament or printing settings. As of now, the 35C is working for me (YMMV and Polymaker's formula can always get tweaked).
Do you have links for the passthroughs you use on your filament driers? As it turns out, I have the Sunlu and Comgrow same as you. I don't like filament rubbing against the lid on the Sunlu and the Comgrow I find it adds friction with the stock openings.
I got you! Here is the sovol/comgrow one. I had to scale the arched tubes down to 99% to get them to fit in the nuts makerworld.com/en/models/672555#profileId-600406 Heres the one for the sunlu. makerworld.com/en/models/252228?from=search#profileId-270647 These are the fittings I use. amzn.to/4hFwUkD
Simple answer, all PETG is a co-polyester, but all co-polyester is not PETG. That said I don't know the exact chemical modifications that Polymaker made on this stuff to get it to behave more like PLA and less like PETG but it does seem like it retains the good mechanochemical properties of both materials while eliminating the bad, like high Hygroscopity.
Yep, been using Fillamentum CPE and its fantastic material. Its semi-transparent and very tough, durable yet ductile at room temperature - a 3mm thick length with 4 walls and 4+4 top n btm layers can be bent 180Deg back on itself!!
@@chrisgill5692 as much as I don't want to spend like $60 a spool on filamentum and/or hatchbox COPE, I feel like it'll be a necessary step to compare them at some point haha
I linked them in the description so you can check them out. The primary differences were nozzle temperature, bed temperature and retraction. I just modeled them after the recommended print settings that polymaker put on the CoPE page of their website.
I've gone through several spools of Polymaker CoPE on my bambu X1C and I am really liking it. Seems very tough and also lightweight. I just hate that Polymaker spools wont fit in the bambu AMS and they are cardboard. I used polylite PLA profile in bambu studio on a BQ Cryogrip glacier build plate with magigoo. Nozzle temp 220c, bed temp 55c.
I was curious about this material as well. I printed it with PLA settings using models sliced for PLA. I changed nothing I just hit print and pretended it was PLA. It works great thus far on my prusa Mk3.5. I did note that there was a lead warning on the box and I reached out to Polymaker and they said it was a mistake and it is being removed as there is no lead in the product. This warning definitely had me shy away at first bit of a miss on their end. I once printed it on a smooth PEI sheet on accident and that was a big mistake thankfully there was some glue residue and I did not lose that plate. I print it on textured PEI and it does okay for the most part but I have seen some lifting on larger models. Probably needs a brim or again just some glue stick.
I wasn't brave enough to try smooth PEI haha. I learned that lesson the hard way with PETG-CF... My QiDi and Snapmaker both printed it with PLA high speed settings loaded before I made the custom profiles, but it wasn't nearly as clean of a final product as I got after loading the proper specs.
@@KHAEntertainment I think that was the major difference is I was just using the standard pursament PLA settings not high speed. I will try to dial it in and see how fast we can go. it stuck to the smooth PEI so hard that when I pulled it off the part tore at the layer lines you touted as being so strong before letting go of the plate.
Good informative video. I'll have to keep my eye out for this material. On an unrelated note, i noticed that you had a purge tower when you printed the boaty on the a1. Was this for time-lapse reasons, or did you forget to disable it before editing the profile?
It's around $21 a spool on Amazon right now but polymaker still has their sale going on for like $17.50 each at the moment. I actually just ordered four more spools myself to do another video and make some long overdue projects that I was originally going to do in PETG.
Would be interesting to see a flow rate test to see how it performs at different flow rates (comparatively with PLA maybe as that is what it is being touted to replace in the vid).
Off topic when you clicked on resync on the ams filament it recognized the generic pla but on mine it doesn’t even recognize there’s anything in that slot. Why?
@islandsnow I'm not sure if you can do it through the slicer but I think there's a setting for it on the machine itself. If that's setting is toggled on that might be your cause.
It looks like what they are calling CoPolyester is also called Tritan, it came to the market like 15 years ago and did not got much attention, the opposite happened in Brazil where it is a very popular material, it was my main printing material when I lived in Brazil and it is indeed an amazing material to work with , a bit finicky with be adhesion sometimes but produces excellent parts!
Do you have any experience with ColorFabb's CoPE? They have 3 grades/formulations, NGen, XT, and HT. I've used NGen, but it was long enough ago that I don't remember the printing profile details. I recently used some HT and it took some tweaking to print the vace-mode silica holders that I was making for storing filament.
CoPE is neat stuff.... but a devil to print when I tried. But now that Polymaker makes it, I guess I'll try it again, too. The strength and better heat resistance would be awesome to have instead of PLA. Especially as can just kick it out on my A1 it looks like. Got an order in for a roll now!
I will in the next one. Since prices do fluctuate as time goes by I probably rather state a comparative difference in the pricing like "this is often on par with PLA" or "this material is a third of the price of premium PLA* etc so that the information is more future-proofed.
Nice format and very informative. I have subscribed to your channel. I'm very new to this from a Christmas gift of a FLASUN SR. I have so much to learn. I will be down for hip surgery soon and will be getting into this more after initial rehab. I hope you can offer some suggestions as far as modifications for heat and fill. Not doing any extreme mods to the printer and will use supplied slicer. I will get more adventurous with the next (2nd) printer that will probably be an enclosed design and then a bedslinger. Thanks again...
I have no hands on experience with FLSUN but I hear that they're great machines. Stick with PLA and PETG-HS/HF to start and you should be good with stock material profiles for pretty much any manufacturer. Polymaker insist that you can use PLA high speed profiles for this COPE so feel free to give it a shot but I didn't have much success doing that myself until I made my own profiles for it. Good luck with your surgery and we'll to the hobby!
Great video, and definitely appreciate the intro to a new filament type of which I was not previously aware. Where did you get a G10 plate for the A1? I found the printer profile on the Panchroma page on Polymaker's website under Print Settings: Printing Temperature: 190˚C - 230˚C Bed Temperature: 25˚C - 60˚C Printing Speed: up to 400mm/s Fan: ON Direct Drive: Retraction Distance: 1mm Retraction Speed: 20mm/s Indirect Drive: Retraction Distance: 3mm Retraction Speed: 40mm/s Drying Settings: 55˚C for 6h (Only if the material has absorbed moisture)
I found the G10 plate on Amazon by a company called Light-year 3D. Looks like they're out of stock at the moment but hopefully they'll get them back soon! amzn.to/3Q1aDSx That printing information from the website is what I use to create the material profiles in Orca/bamboo Studio. For their higher end materials like their fiber online they actually make the downloadable profiles available for popular slicers and machines, so that's what I was referencing when I said they weren't yet published.
Water and UV resistance, higher temperature resistance, and flexibility. Basically the premise polymaker states is to give you the benefits of PETG with the "ease of printability" of PLA. I think that statement can be true once manufacturers load the proper profiles into their slicers but until then, there's definitely a bit of a learning curve.
So I think what the glass transition temp of it matters. I easily found the filament your using and its cheap , yay. But I see on another manufacters site it was saying a glass transition temp similar to ABS 100c. But as I think we have all learned with PLA diff manufacters are different. So Im pretty curious on that part of this
I set the profile for all current Bambu machines but apparently people are having some issues importing it so I'm gonna take a look tonight and see why it's throwing an error
I’ve had a lot of issues with multiple different filaments trying to print the Boaty it doesn’t have enough plastic on first layer for good consistent adhesion
I can see that. This was my first attempt at printing one, I haven't even tried one in PLA or PETG before this. Maybe I should have cheated and used my SuperTac plate haha
Much less hydroscopic than PETG. I have not had to dry my spools at all and they've been out in open air for a week and a half now. For the finished prince, they are much more water resistant than PLA and apparently even better water resistance than final printed PETG parts.
I haven't seen any issues with excessive adhesion on the Bambu textured pei plate 🤷♂️ The filament does kinda have a weird 'sheen' to it, at least on the prints i tried with it.
just for clarification, Qidi is pronounced like cheetos but with the E sound at the end, so cheaty. anyway thanks for turning me on to this material, gonna have to put some through my K1-MAX and see how it performs. awesome that you also published your material profile for it ill def be importing those to my slicer. you got yourself a sub from me that's for sure
Thank you! I just uploaded a new version of the profile for Bambu studio cause people were telling me it wasn't importing properly, so might want to grab the newest one!
Great video, lots of useful info and very clear! The multi-material testing was interesting. You've convinced me to give COPE a try - it seems to cost about the same as PLA. Any idea how COPE does with moisture? I haven't had any problems with PLA and PETG but I don't want to invest in a filament dryer. Also would be interested to know what kind of adhesive would work best to glue COPE parts together. Subscribed!
That's what got me interested initially. It has higher water resistance and UV resistance than even regular PETG. I totally forgot to mention that in the video 🤦🏻
I probably should have mentioned that it has better UV resistance, better water resistance, and the more flexibility than PLA. So basically it has very similar properties to PETG but without the more annoying aspects, like stringing and warping at the corners.
@@KHAEntertainment Polymaker CoPE has (according to their own TDS and videos) lower layer adhesion, strength, stiffness, and impact resistance than regular PLA. Vicat softening temperature is only 3 degrees higher than regular PLA. According to them, moisture absorption is no better than PLA, though it is better than PETG. They make no statement that I can find about UV resistance. If you have documentation that says it is UV resistant, I would be interested in seeing that. I can't see that it has any of the benefits of PETG except that is does not stick to PLA, but sticks to PEI beds strongly enough to destroy them. This is Polymaker's primary selling point: "Panchroma CoPE is a new experimental product that is not PLA. It prints with very similar settings as PLA but can achieve better overhangs at faster speeds."
@no-page I talked to polymaker today about their claim that the layer adhesion was not good, and I sent them my material profiles to test because they were just using PLA profiles. Kind of surprised that they didn't bother to make a custom profile of their own. But I think that they are just so hopeful that it'll work with most people's PLA settings that they don't want to try to push people having to load a specialty one. If it makes the difference between a crumbly product and a very strong one, I would tell people to load the proper profile... Hopefully they'll run my profiles and get back to me with some feedback
@@KHAEntertainment I hope they do. As Polymaker "promotes" it, I just dont see the value of it. I am glad you like it and I hope your light bracket holds up well for you.
Thank you. Great review.interesting material... Though vicat is low like pla, so petg still better. Btw when comparing strength to petg, petg should be printed with minimal cooling
@KHAEntertainment Nylon isn't actually too bad, when it comes to fumes. It's about the same as PETG. I think its even the same VOC that is emitted by both.
@sheariley1910 nice! It's definitely on my wish list. Not sure my QiDI it's up to it since it doesn't have active chamber heating, but maybe I'll give it a try haha
@@KHAEntertainment Just let the chamber heat up from the bed heater for a while before starting the print. Also use a wide brim (ex: 8mm) in addition to putting sacrificial "mouse ears" on sharp corners (0.8mm thick cylinders). Also, use hairspray or glue stick for adhesion and release.
@@tacticalcoonairsoft1470 it's not a public song, is private in my library. You can find it here though. suno.com/song/fe004d01-4afe-47d0-b3a9-30032b410113
I'm still waiting on the TDS for this material but from the research I've done, it's supposed to be stable up to 110° c so on paper, even better than PETG, ASA or ABS.
I like SuperSticky from Lone Star Makers better than any other adhesive/release agent. The marker bottle is really nice and it works great. Plus I like to support small businesses.
I'll keep those in mind! I didn't show it here but I tested a Biqu Cryogrip plate with the CoPE and it worked excellently! Between that and the G10 Garolite plate I should be set, but others using CoPE with just PEI definitely need a coating!
I grabbed a spool of this when it was $11 on polymaker's site but haven't done anything with it yet. I'm interested in creep and heat deflection; polymaker doesn't list those in the TDS. Also, AI generated background music with lyrics is probably one of the lowest points of 2025 so far.
I picked it up during the holiday sale as well. The ultimaker and fillamentum brands of CPE are like 5x the price but I would be curious to compare them one day As for the music, sorry it's not to your liking but I'm big into AI and am always toying with it's capabilities.
@@KHAEntertainmentit was fine, but the mixing wasn’t great in a couple spots. Music is great for b roll, but is very rarely done well over someone talking.
Polymaker CoPE is unlike any other that I've seen. Most CoPE is similar to PETG, but the Polymaker stuff is extremely weak with poor layer adhesion (they admit as much in their own videos). I really don't know what the point of Polymaker CoPE is except they say it is like PLA, only cheaper. It isn't really like PLA, because PLA is much stronger. Anyway, I'm just writing this to let you know that if you try another brand like colorFabb or Fillamentum, it is nothing like the Polymaker filament. Those brands consider CoPE/CPE to be an engineering material. Some have fantastic physical performance, but can be quite challenging to print.
That's what I always understood the material to be, a stronger engineering material. It was one of the engineering material reviews on "The next layer" that put me onto it. I'm definitely going to have to buy some hatch box and filamentum in the near future and compare all three
Coming in and commenting early on my watch. Just want to say, ALL 3d printing should have ventilation and some form of air filtration. Even if the filament you're usually have very low VOC emissions, the micro particle contamination will tank your air quality, and you really shouldn't be breathing that in.
I have a overpowered 3 stage HEPA filter and an exhaust fan in the workshop, but I still don't print anything more adventurous than PETG-CF. One of my next videos will be finishing up my full ventilation project so I can take my two enclosed printers and vent them directly outdoors so that I could work with other materials.
I mean it's a petroleum based plastic so there's similarities, but it's definitely not the same stuff. The part that got my interest the most was the low hygroscopity. I print with PETG a lot and I hate having to redry it every few days between uses. So far I have not had to dry this stuff once after a couple of weeks of using it.
@@KHAEntertainment You are probably right. My first assumption was a modified PETG, but the TDS showed a vicat value of 66°C which would be extremly low for a PETG. Overall the mechanical properties are quite unimpressive which matches with the Panchroma-filaments targeting decorative prints.
I know... :( I did a test listen on my laptop and it sounded okay but on the TV and with headphones it's definitely not right. I wish TH-cam gave me the capability to re-upload just the audio
Thank you all so much for the amazing feedback! 🥳 I truly appreciate every comment and suggestion-it means the world to me!
I want to apologize for the audio quality on this one. I decided to give CapCut a try instead of Adobe, and while it made editing faster, it seems I sacrificed the final audio quality in the process. Lesson learned! I promise the audio will be on point in the next video. 🎙✨
Speaking of the next video, you’ve given me some incredible ideas for a follow-up, and I can’t wait to get started! Stick around-there’s plenty more coming your way! 🚀
That background music is way too loud when you talk over it. It's difficult to follow your words with music blaring. Otherwise great vid!
Noted! I'm gonna do my audio editing in premiere next time. I did this whole video in CapCut and I did feel I lost some granular control of the audio by doing that.
Annoing music…
@@KHAEntertainment The content is great. The music... oof. Just use instrumental stuff.
Yeah music not necessary when you're speaking tough to watch
I agree.
Feedback: the music is way too loud! 👎
Great video but the music is very distracting.
Noted! Next video I'm going back to using Adobe for editing, especially for the audio!
VG video. High density of information. BTW it’s useful to know which materials *don’t* stick together well, so we can use one material as a support.
Coming back at the end of my watch. First video I've seen from your channel. I enjoyed my time here, nice video!
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it and hope to see you around for the next video!
What are the mechanical properties of this? What is the heat resistance like compared to other filaments?
Great review! I really appreciate your having tested this material on different build plates and different vendor machines! +1 subscriber!
Thank you!
I've used just about every color of the Panchroma line. Early on before I even knew that it wasn't just regular PLA I was using the Polyterra presets on my X1C's and my A1's and it always came out amazing. I was printing on G10 plates with no glue and never had an issue except for the white color. I had to use my textured PEI with Vision Miner Nano applied for adhesion and release and it worked great. I noticed when I did print using a high-speed profile it made the model come out glossy and I don't care for that at all. Using the Polyterra profile it has a nice matte finish. Great video.
👏 Thank you for the review!!!
My pleasure!! Fingers crossed for some CF/GF CoPE in the near future haha 😉
@Polymaker thanks for supporting this channel! This was a great review, and I hope you continue to work with KHA! Send some to @NoizieWorks if you get a chance! We LOVE our Polymaker filaments!!
use it with the BQ Cryo Grip plates
th-cam.com/video/Wi3JpixplEg/w-d-xo.html
@@thebasicCreator I actually got a glacier plate right after filming this video and you're right it does work very well with it!
what an awesome video! super thorough testing! I will for sure try it if Bambu get some profiles loaded on, thank you!
Cool! Will definitely try it. Might be just what I need for some of my products! Thanks for the honest review.
Thorough testing and some very useful info. Thanks for the video.
So PLA could be a good interface material for supports. Good to know! thanks for the review, this materail will have a place for my work for sure!
I'm thinking the opposite. Polymaker CoPE costs a decent amount less than Polymaker PLA. But at the same time, you're not wrong because you can get even cheaper PLA to use as a support interface.
@Spice can work in both way although petg might be cheaper for pla. I can buy pla or petg for about 20$ cad while the cope is almost 30$.
I have to resort to a wide brass nozzle (0.4mm but the nozzle is thick to the tip) and 35mm/s print speeds with only light part cooling for overhangs to get that kind of layer adhesion. And since my printer's enclosed and also in a walk in closet with a HEPA filter that is running anytime the printer is on i have no issues with toxic flumes (tons of ABS/ASA/PC printing). I just ordered one because of your vid, thanks!
Pro Tip to remove prints stuck on PEI/Glass beds, heat the bed to 100c and it'll come off but might ruin your print but it won't mess up your build plate. I would let it cool completely then heat the bed and try to remove it as it passes the original bed temp you printed it at, that way the part doesn't heat up enough to weaken and you'll have both the bed and your print. I mostly use one of Creality's carbon borosilicate glass beds because they where $2 at Micro Center for a 310x315mm bed that i needed for a 300x300mm build area on my main printer. Narrow temps ranges to get the prints to stick, but once you get it down it's amazing for engineering prints.
Very thorough review. I have not used CoPE, but, maybe someday I will. Thank You.
Thank you for the speed and quality information. gonna pick up some cope next week
Been using a bit of this stuff because it is (or was) on a decent sale and it definitely holds up so far. You have to treat it slightly different than PLA, but it's great once you've got it figured out. The bed adhesion IS crazy, but lowering the temp to somewhere in the 40s alleviates that issue. I also DEFINITELY had to dry all the rolls I recieved.
What's the deflection temperature of this filament? Meaning what temperature can it handle before it's softens also does it creep like PLA or is it stable like PETG?
It's definitely more stable than PLA and I'd say even PETG. On my multi-material test the PETG lifted from the bed in the corners and the COPE stayed perfectly adhered.
As for the deflection temperature, that I'm not sure but I'm gonna ask Polymaker for a TDS.
I have asked Polymaker this a couple times since Dec, they would answer some of my questions, but always ignored this one. Same with is it hygroscopic? Best I have got it this is for pretty things, and not structural. They allude to as much in the video they just released on it as well, but still no info on heat or water.
@@HackMonkey well that's annoying because unless it has a TG equal or better than PETG it's useless to me I live at 7,000 ft in New Mexico and most of my prints go outdoors so unless it can handle radiative heating meaning it has a pretty decent TG it's useless to me.
@HackMonkey as for sticking to the bed try some vision minor nano polymer I no longer have lifting problems with PETG that stuff is some kind of witchcraft and it's very effective and for the less crazy distortion materials like PLA and p e t g as long as you allow it to cool itself releases and you don't have to reapply it I am very very impressed with it I print all of my stuff in PETG since it goes outdoors and where I live radiation heating is very high so even when it's relatively cool out parts warp but PETG seems to handle it fine.
@@nerys71 Absolutely! Vision Miner is purple liquid voodoo! It is the only thing I will ever use on a bed.
Orca has "Interlocking material" for Bambu printers also.
Nice I'll have to check that out.
I haven't made the switch to pure orca yet but as I keep adding non-Bambu machines to my setup it's definitely gonna happen sooner than later
This material sounds like a dream for my A1 for strength. Hopefully we can get more data and agreement on bed types that work best.
Is this material good for outdoor applications? UV resistant/temp extremes? Thanks for the introduction to a new material.
In general COPE is, but a lot of people in the comments are telling me that this polymaker variation might not be as durable in the regards as the others. So I think some additional testing is needed.
That said one of my main reasons for buying this material was because it's supposed to have better UV and weather resistance than PETG or even ASA, and I had fully intended to use it on projects that would be outdoors or in high humidity environments, like bathrooms.
Thanks for sharing. I picked some up for testing when it was$12 a roll and had some issues dialing it in. I found it to be super brittle if still warm (taking off the bed too early) but very strong once cured. I’ll try your profile and give it another go. There’s just been very little coverage of this material.
I used the polymaker pla profile in bambu stuido profile for CoPE no issues, and yes super adhesion with the pei plate. Over all i love the stuff I haven't had any issues with it. Also just picked up one of the blue Biqu plates testing with that now so far so good.
I picked up a Biqu glacier last week and tried it with CoPE. Worked great!
I'm gonna try again with PLA profiles since polymaker themselves are saying it should work. But the temperature settings for the bed and nozzle that they recommend are higher than PLA settings so their kinda contradicting themselves.
@@KHAEntertainment for the biqu I been using the super tack Bambu build plate settings, so far so good, more testing need lol
Thank you for the video, it certainly looks like an interesting material. I'll have to see if I can find some locally in NZ to test out.
I know there's a couple other brands that produce it but they're like four times the price. I hope you are able to find the polymaker stuff since it's definitely the most affordable!
Interesting, in Polymaker's own video dropped the same day, they point blank say that interlayer adhesion is a weak point, and lacking.
Yeah I noticed that... But then again they're recommending people print with PLA settings and not the actual settings they recommend on the spool...
I couldn't even get it to stick to the bed with PLA settings so 🤷🏻
@@KHAEntertainment You think they sabotaged their own filament so as to not cannibalise their PLA sales?
You’ve got a good head for testing. Would love to see you make some rigs and do some CNC kitchen type of tests.
I’d like to see more close-ups of the print quality and the breaks.
Keep putting out great content!
Thanks! I'm totally down for that. I had a 3rd camera angle for the reviews but I lost the footage somehow. I'm going to improve my camera and file management setup very soon!
@@KHAEntertainment You'll work through the growing pains :) Although, lost footage still happens occasionally to big channels...!
@@timothymusson5040 oh I know. I've worked on many a set for many creators big and small over the years. Would've been nice to not have it happen on my first video in like 3 years 😂
Great video. Looks like a great new material to consider. How does it handle being outdoors or in hot sunny days or inside a car? How does the cost compare to PLA and PETG? Looking forward to more videos on this filament.
So I've been told CoPE has BETTER Weather and UV resitance that PETG or even ASA but apparently that statement was referring to the Hatchbox and Fillamentum stuff that's like 3x the price. I think I'll have to do some comparisons as that was one of the main aspects of this material I wanted to explore... using it for outdoor projects as a replacement for PETG.
I have the BL P1s and like ASA and PETG-CF for most builds. I am an engineer and mostly build functional items. Also a HAM radio operator, N8VY. Usually, I need strength, impact resistance and the proper amount of flexibility. We will see about CoPE, but your comment about UV and humidity resistance makes it interesting. Thank you.
Yeah I'm gonna test UV and weather resistance next and I might even invest in a full testing rig to get some numbers on the mechanical strength. Then I'll put it up against CoPE from Filamentum and Hatchbox
@@KHAEntertainment Great. That is appreciated.
Thanks, just ordered a couple of rolls to try.
Weight??? Is it heavier or lighter than pla??
When I get the full data sheet from them I'll update that in a follow up video. My guess right now is it's denser.
I can also do a test where I extrude X mm of material and weigh the output for comparison
i once had supports generating true the part in bambu studio and i didnt realize it until i had printed the part whit petg... those supports were hard to remove
How does CoPE take spray paint & acrylic paint? Do they stick?
Great question! I'll add that to my checklist for when I make a follow-up video
interesting. Thank you for the video. I never printed benchy. Been printing for years.
How do I import your custom profile to Babmu studio? I downloaded the .json file. In Bambu studio I did File - Import - Import configs, selected your .json for Bambu and I get " There are 0 configs imported. (Only non-system compatible configs)"???
@@pwilliamssa that's the process... Let me check the files and if they need tweaking I'll reupload them
I am running into the same issue.
@@DelawareVapor I just updated a new version of it for Bambu. Should work fine now as it's a direct export from my Bambu Studio instance!
I've used this almost since it came out and I'm still iffy about it. The biggest issue is just the bed adhesion which, as you showed, can be poor to (in my experience) nearly impossible to release if you have a large enough first layer. As I prefer textured PEI as a general-purpose plate, the only decent setting I found for the P1S I mostly use with Panchroma is to reduce the bed temp to 35C for a Goldilocks level of adhesion.
Did you wind up making your own material profiles for it or are you getting by using something preset on the machine?
I as well had no issues with it getting too stuck to my textured PEI plate for bambu, but my text or PEI plate for a snap maker It definitely over adhered to and I and very glad I didn't damage that plate because that's a pricey one haha.
@@KHAEntertainment At this point, I don't remember if I used Bambu PLA or Generic PLA High Speed (I think the latter) as the base preset. Like you, I did a lot of experimenting and since I wasn't doing it for science, I didn't always write down what I changed either in filament or printing settings. As of now, the 35C is working for me (YMMV and Polymaker's formula can always get tweaked).
Do you have links for the passthroughs you use on your filament driers? As it turns out, I have the Sunlu and Comgrow same as you. I don't like filament rubbing against the lid on the Sunlu and the Comgrow I find it adds friction with the stock openings.
I got you! Here is the sovol/comgrow one. I had to scale the arched tubes down to 99% to get them to fit in the nuts
makerworld.com/en/models/672555#profileId-600406
Heres the one for the sunlu.
makerworld.com/en/models/252228?from=search#profileId-270647
These are the fittings I use.
amzn.to/4hFwUkD
@@KHAEntertainment Thank you!!! This is going to help so much, or at least give me a little better peace of mind.
So PETG is classified as a copolyester. How is this CoPE actually different from PETG?
Simple answer, all PETG is a co-polyester, but all co-polyester is not PETG. That said I don't know the exact chemical modifications that Polymaker made on this stuff to get it to behave more like PLA and less like PETG but it does seem like it retains the good mechanochemical properties of both materials while eliminating the bad, like high Hygroscopity.
Yep, been using Fillamentum CPE and its fantastic material. Its semi-transparent and very tough, durable yet ductile at room temperature - a 3mm thick length with 4 walls and 4+4 top n btm layers can be bent 180Deg back on itself!!
@@chrisgill5692 as much as I don't want to spend like $60 a spool on filamentum and/or hatchbox COPE, I feel like it'll be a necessary step to compare them at some point haha
@KHAEntertainment 👍yeah, I hear you. CPE HG100 is 26€ for 750g here in Europe at the moment. A comparison of quality brands would be great!
If you do another video on cope co polyester, can you show a up-close view of the layer lines. I am interested in the details. Great video
I'd say a follow-up video is pretty likely! You guys are asking some great questions and pointing out other things you'd like to see!
It would be nice to know what went into making your custom profile.
I linked them in the description so you can check them out. The primary differences were nozzle temperature, bed temperature and retraction. I just modeled them after the recommended print settings that polymaker put on the CoPE page of their website.
I've gone through several spools of Polymaker CoPE on my bambu X1C and I am really liking it. Seems very tough and also lightweight. I just hate that Polymaker spools wont fit in the bambu AMS and they are cardboard. I used polylite PLA profile in bambu studio on a BQ Cryogrip glacier build plate with magigoo. Nozzle temp 220c, bed temp 55c.
did some scrolling in the video so idont know if i missed it, but heat is the pla weak side..what are this one?..petg is better in heat for example..
Love this!! Thank you for creating this style of content! We need more of it
I'm glad you liked it! More content like this is definitely on the way!
@@KHAEntertainment i think this might be a bot account.
@alexdrockhound9497 haha I know her actually, she's not a robot... At least not that I know of 🤔😆
I was curious about this material as well. I printed it with PLA settings using models sliced for PLA. I changed nothing I just hit print and pretended it was PLA. It works great thus far on my prusa Mk3.5. I did note that there was a lead warning on the box and I reached out to Polymaker and they said it was a mistake and it is being removed as there is no lead in the product. This warning definitely had me shy away at first bit of a miss on their end.
I once printed it on a smooth PEI sheet on accident and that was a big mistake thankfully there was some glue residue and I did not lose that plate. I print it on textured PEI and it does okay for the most part but I have seen some lifting on larger models. Probably needs a brim or again just some glue stick.
I wasn't brave enough to try smooth PEI haha. I learned that lesson the hard way with PETG-CF...
My QiDi and Snapmaker both printed it with PLA high speed settings loaded before I made the custom profiles, but it wasn't nearly as clean of a final product as I got after loading the proper specs.
@@KHAEntertainment I think that was the major difference is I was just using the standard pursament PLA settings not high speed. I will try to dial it in and see how fast we can go. it stuck to the smooth PEI so hard that when I pulled it off the part tore at the layer lines you touted as being so strong before letting go of the plate.
Good informative video. I'll have to keep my eye out for this material. On an unrelated note, i noticed that you had a purge tower when you printed the boaty on the a1. Was this for time-lapse reasons, or did you forget to disable it before editing the profile?
Just for time-lapse. I'm working on a new time-lapse system for Bambu cause that A1 camera is so terrible lol
How much and what is the cost compared to PLA?
It's around $21 a spool on Amazon right now but polymaker still has their sale going on for like $17.50 each at the moment. I actually just ordered four more spools myself to do another video and make some long overdue projects that I was originally going to do in PETG.
Would be interesting to see a flow rate test to see how it performs at different flow rates (comparatively with PLA maybe as that is what it is being touted to replace in the vid).
Off topic when you clicked on resync on the ams filament it recognized the generic pla but on mine it doesn’t even recognize there’s anything in that slot. Why?
Do you have the setting toggled on where it only looks for RFID spools? That might override user settings as it's always gonna expect a Bambu RFID.
@@KHAEntertainment hmmm i don't see any setting like that in settings
@islandsnow I'm not sure if you can do it through the slicer but I think there's a setting for it on the machine itself. If that's setting is toggled on that might be your cause.
subscribed for the use of 3D Boaty
It looks like what they are calling CoPolyester is also called Tritan, it came to the market like 15 years ago and did not got much attention, the opposite happened in Brazil where it is a very popular material, it was my main printing material when I lived in Brazil and it is indeed an amazing material to work with , a bit finicky with be adhesion sometimes but produces excellent parts!
Do you have any experience with ColorFabb's CoPE? They have 3 grades/formulations, NGen, XT, and HT. I've used NGen, but it was long enough ago that I don't remember the printing profile details. I recently used some HT and it took some tweaking to print the vace-mode silica holders that I was making for storing filament.
Haven't yet seen that brand, but I was planning to buy hatch box and filamentum variations to put up against it in the next round of testing.
CoPE is neat stuff.... but a devil to print when I tried. But now that Polymaker makes it, I guess I'll try it again, too. The strength and better heat resistance would be awesome to have instead of PLA. Especially as can just kick it out on my A1 it looks like. Got an order in for a roll now!
You should mention the cost compared to other materials, but otherwise, great video. First time watcher!
I will in the next one. Since prices do fluctuate as time goes by I probably rather state a comparative difference in the pricing like "this is often on par with PLA" or "this material is a third of the price of premium PLA* etc so that the information is more future-proofed.
Nice format and very informative. I have subscribed to your channel. I'm very new to this from a Christmas gift of a FLASUN SR. I have so much to learn. I will be down for hip surgery soon and will be getting into this more after initial rehab. I hope you can offer some suggestions as far as modifications for heat and fill. Not doing any extreme mods to the printer and will use supplied slicer. I will get more adventurous with the next (2nd) printer that will probably be an enclosed design and then a bedslinger. Thanks again...
I have no hands on experience with FLSUN but I hear that they're great machines. Stick with PLA and PETG-HS/HF to start and you should be good with stock material profiles for pretty much any manufacturer.
Polymaker insist that you can use PLA high speed profiles for this COPE so feel free to give it a shot but I didn't have much success doing that myself until I made my own profiles for it.
Good luck with your surgery and we'll to the hobby!
Great video, and definitely appreciate the intro to a new filament type of which I was not previously aware. Where did you get a G10 plate for the A1? I found the printer profile on the Panchroma page on Polymaker's website under Print Settings:
Printing Temperature: 190˚C - 230˚C
Bed Temperature: 25˚C - 60˚C
Printing Speed: up to 400mm/s
Fan: ON
Direct Drive:
Retraction Distance: 1mm
Retraction Speed: 20mm/s
Indirect Drive:
Retraction Distance: 3mm
Retraction Speed: 40mm/s
Drying Settings: 55˚C for 6h
(Only if the material has absorbed moisture)
I found the G10 plate on Amazon by a company called Light-year 3D. Looks like they're out of stock at the moment but hopefully they'll get them back soon!
amzn.to/3Q1aDSx
That printing information from the website is what I use to create the material profiles in Orca/bamboo Studio. For their higher end materials like their fiber online they actually make the downloadable profiles available for popular slicers and machines, so that's what I was referencing when I said they weren't yet published.
Thanx for changing the permissions! Nice video!
Appreciate it! Let me know if those profiles work for ya!
You should do all of the tests with the same roll, different colours can behave differently.
Great point, and Nlnoted for the next set of tests!
Interesting. But what does it bring that PLA+ doesn't?
Water and UV resistance, higher temperature resistance, and flexibility.
Basically the premise polymaker states is to give you the benefits of PETG with the "ease of printability" of PLA. I think that statement can be true once manufacturers load the proper profiles into their slicers but until then, there's definitely a bit of a learning curve.
Thanks for the great video. I had never heard of CoPE before now. By the way, I loved that music. Where can I find a copy of those songs? 😃
Haha thanks! I made them using suno AI.
suno.com/song/fe004d01-4afe-47d0-b3a9-30032b410113
I feel like watching a high school movie 😂. Your tests and informations are pretty good though.
So I think what the glass transition temp of it matters. I easily found the filament your using and its cheap , yay. But I see on another manufacters site it was saying a glass transition temp similar to ABS 100c. But as I think we have all learned with PLA diff manufacters are different. So Im pretty curious on that part of this
will those settings also work on Bambu lab x1c?
I set the profile for all current Bambu machines but apparently people are having some issues importing it so I'm gonna take a look tonight and see why it's throwing an error
I’ve had a lot of issues with multiple different filaments trying to print the Boaty it doesn’t have enough plastic on first layer for good consistent adhesion
I can see that. This was my first attempt at printing one, I haven't even tried one in PLA or PETG before this. Maybe I should have cheated and used my SuperTac plate haha
How does it set with moisture absorption?
Much less hydroscopic than PETG. I have not had to dry my spools at all and they've been out in open air for a week and a half now. For the finished prince, they are much more water resistant than PLA and apparently even better water resistance than final printed PETG parts.
I haven't seen any issues with excessive adhesion on the Bambu textured pei plate 🤷♂️
The filament does kinda have a weird 'sheen' to it, at least on the prints i tried with it.
just for clarification, Qidi is pronounced like cheetos but with the E sound at the end, so cheaty. anyway thanks for turning me on to this material, gonna have to put some through my K1-MAX and see how it performs. awesome that you also published your material profile for it ill def be importing those to my slicer. you got yourself a sub from me that's for sure
Thank you! I just uploaded a new version of the profile for Bambu studio cause people were telling me it wasn't importing properly, so might want to grab the newest one!
Great video, lots of useful info and very clear! The multi-material testing was interesting. You've convinced me to give COPE a try - it seems to cost about the same as PLA. Any idea how COPE does with moisture? I haven't had any problems with PLA and PETG but I don't want to invest in a filament dryer. Also would be interested to know what kind of adhesive would work best to glue COPE parts together. Subscribed!
That's what got me interested initially. It has higher water resistance and UV resistance than even regular PETG. I totally forgot to mention that in the video 🤦🏻
That smooth surface... I wonder how well it prints with a 0.2 nozzle & if it'd provide further improvements to FDM miniature printing.
I'll try it with a .2 next. I'm betting it'll work well!
Seems like solution in search of a problem....Sure PLA has shortcomings, but I don't see this filament addresses any of them.
I probably should have mentioned that it has better UV resistance, better water resistance, and the more flexibility than PLA. So basically it has very similar properties to PETG but without the more annoying aspects, like stringing and warping at the corners.
@@KHAEntertainment Polymaker CoPE has (according to their own TDS and videos) lower layer adhesion, strength, stiffness, and impact resistance than regular PLA. Vicat softening temperature is only 3 degrees higher than regular PLA. According to them, moisture absorption is no better than PLA, though it is better than PETG. They make no statement that I can find about UV resistance. If you have documentation that says it is UV resistant, I would be interested in seeing that. I can't see that it has any of the benefits of PETG except that is does not stick to PLA, but sticks to PEI beds strongly enough to destroy them. This is Polymaker's primary selling point: "Panchroma CoPE is a new experimental product that is not PLA. It prints with very similar settings as PLA but can achieve better overhangs at faster speeds."
@no-page I talked to polymaker today about their claim that the layer adhesion was not good, and I sent them my material profiles to test because they were just using PLA profiles. Kind of surprised that they didn't bother to make a custom profile of their own.
But I think that they are just so hopeful that it'll work with most people's PLA settings that they don't want to try to push people having to load a specialty one.
If it makes the difference between a crumbly product and a very strong one, I would tell people to load the proper profile...
Hopefully they'll run my profiles and get back to me with some feedback
@@KHAEntertainment I hope they do. As Polymaker "promotes" it, I just dont see the value of it. I am glad you like it and I hope your light bracket holds up well for you.
I love all my Panchroma filaments. Prints like a dream on my Qidi Q1pro
I haven't tried the PLA but now that I see they have hex color codes assigned to them, that tickles my inner IT dev to want to mess with the more 😂
Thank you. Great review.interesting material... Though vicat is low like pla, so petg still better. Btw when comparing strength to petg, petg should be printed with minimal cooling
Nylon also has really good layer adhesion.
Haven't printed in nylon yet but hopefully soon once I get my ventilation system set up
@KHAEntertainment Nylon isn't actually too bad, when it comes to fumes. It's about the same as PETG. I think its even the same VOC that is emitted by both.
@sheariley1910 nice! It's definitely on my wish list. Not sure my QiDI it's up to it since it doesn't have active chamber heating, but maybe I'll give it a try haha
@@KHAEntertainment Just let the chamber heat up from the bed heater for a while before starting the print. Also use a wide brim (ex: 8mm) in addition to putting sacrificial "mouse ears" on sharp corners (0.8mm thick cylinders). Also, use hairspray or glue stick for adhesion and release.
@sheariley1910 thanks for the tips!
Here in my country we call that filament Tritan, awesome filament... It is a little on the expansive side...
Love the music. Where did you find it?
I made it using AI. suno.com!
I tried to find “print the future” on the website but can’t find it for some reason.
@@tacticalcoonairsoft1470 it's not a public song, is private in my library. You can find it here though. suno.com/song/fe004d01-4afe-47d0-b3a9-30032b410113
Their website has almost zero info on this material. Nothing about the glass transition point, just a claim that it isnt PLA.
They sent me some tech info today and also said they'll be publishing more material data soon
What is the heat resistance compared to pla, abs, asa, and pteg?
I'm still waiting on the TDS for this material but from the research I've done, it's supposed to be stable up to 110° c so on paper, even better than PETG, ASA or ABS.
I like SuperSticky from Lone Star Makers better than any other adhesive/release agent. The marker bottle is really nice and it works great. Plus I like to support small businesses.
I'll keep those in mind! I didn't show it here but I tested a Biqu Cryogrip plate with the CoPE and it worked excellently! Between that and the G10 Garolite plate I should be set, but others using CoPE with just PEI definitely need a coating!
Hold up, im new here, that intro song was wild. did not expect that.
The two materials that did not stick together make for a good pair, use either one as a support material and you will have perfect surfaces
Yep! Definitely seems like PLA would be a great support material for this.
Petg and Pctg are co polyesthers
You do know that you can use Orca with the AMS lite
I have Orca as well but I have no issues with Bambu Studio and I enjoy the maker world integration.
I missed the settings you were changing.
The main difference were Nozzle Temp, Bed temp, and retraction. I linked to the profiles I made in the description of you would like to check them out
Excellent review. Fillamentum make some really lovely colours in CPE, worth a try if you can get it. (No I have nothing to do with Fillamentum)
Please remove the backing track, this is un watchable!
I liked the music and did not think it was too loud. If it is too loud, you are too old😅
I grabbed a spool of this when it was $11 on polymaker's site but haven't done anything with it yet. I'm interested in creep and heat deflection; polymaker doesn't list those in the TDS.
Also, AI generated background music with lyrics is probably one of the lowest points of 2025 so far.
I picked it up during the holiday sale as well. The ultimaker and fillamentum brands of CPE are like 5x the price but I would be curious to compare them one day
As for the music, sorry it's not to your liking but I'm big into AI and am always toying with it's capabilities.
@@KHAEntertainmentit was fine, but the mixing wasn’t great in a couple spots. Music is great for b roll, but is very rarely done well over someone talking.
@@KHAEntertainment nah, the music was cool, i didnt know it was AI
Thanks for the review but ditch the background music or lower it by at least 50%. It's distracting.
I agree! I'm going back to using more conventional audio editing for the next video
@@KHAEntertainment Definitely a great video idea that a lot of people are interested in, though.
Polymaker CoPE is unlike any other that I've seen. Most CoPE is similar to PETG, but the Polymaker stuff is extremely weak with poor layer adhesion (they admit as much in their own videos). I really don't know what the point of Polymaker CoPE is except they say it is like PLA, only cheaper. It isn't really like PLA, because PLA is much stronger. Anyway, I'm just writing this to let you know that if you try another brand like colorFabb or Fillamentum, it is nothing like the Polymaker filament. Those brands consider CoPE/CPE to be an engineering material. Some have fantastic physical performance, but can be quite challenging to print.
That's what I always understood the material to be, a stronger engineering material. It was one of the engineering material reviews on "The next layer" that put me onto it.
I'm definitely going to have to buy some hatch box and filamentum in the near future and compare all three
They coping so hard that PLA is so good they named their material CoPE xD
Coming in and commenting early on my watch. Just want to say, ALL 3d printing should have ventilation and some form of air filtration. Even if the filament you're usually have very low VOC emissions, the micro particle contamination will tank your air quality, and you really shouldn't be breathing that in.
I have a overpowered 3 stage HEPA filter and an exhaust fan in the workshop, but I still don't print anything more adventurous than PETG-CF. One of my next videos will be finishing up my full ventilation project so I can take my two enclosed printers and vent them directly outdoors so that I could work with other materials.
Come thru Boss!!! 👏🏽
Swoop!!
Put some craft gluestick on your plate and the plastic will adhere better
great vid,. but you didn't need that incessant jingle in the background..
Noted! Next video will have the audio dialed in better
Sonds a lot like a fancy marketing name for a PETG-Filament.
I mean it's a petroleum based plastic so there's similarities, but it's definitely not the same stuff. The part that got my interest the most was the low hygroscopity. I print with PETG a lot and I hate having to redry it every few days between uses. So far I have not had to dry this stuff once after a couple of weeks of using it.
@@KHAEntertainment You are probably right.
My first assumption was a modified PETG, but the TDS showed a vicat value of 66°C which would be extremly low for a PETG. Overall the mechanical properties are quite unimpressive which matches with the Panchroma-filaments targeting decorative prints.
The sound mixing on this video is pretty poor in places. Background music shouldn't be so close in volume to dialogue, it's really distracting
I know... :( I did a test listen on my laptop and it sounded okay but on the TV and with headphones it's definitely not right. I wish TH-cam gave me the capability to re-upload just the audio
Music is a bit much. Unnecessarily loud and it detracts from the content. Love the video otherwise!
Let’s goooooo!
Tried watching but the audio was too bad. Sorry
All good. I'm already working to fix that on the next one.
Nice but the music is to loud
Thanks for the feedback! I'm going to make sure the audio is on point for the next video