Machining a Simple part........Wait a Minute !!!!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- This video is a solid lesson on how to approach a truly difficult part. The finished piece is a breath of fresh air. The sequence is a valuable lesson if you really appreciate it. Take a Look !!
Patreon Support: / joepie
Website: www.advancedin...
Web Store: www.advancedin...
Amazon Affiliate Links: NOTE, as an amazon affiliate I do earn a small royalty from sales linked here.
Blue Magic metal polish: amzn.to/3ENEj0T
B&L Eye Loupe: amzn.to/3TU89Vw
Indicol 178: amzn.to/3NycM4s
Generic: amzn.to/3QZ6xK3
Postage Scale: amzn.to/3oCxeY0
That’s ART. Beautiful to just stare at.
Thank you.
Haven't looked at anyone else's comment yet... Either machine the "hook" part separately, OR use a square bar big enough to envelope the "hook" part at the head and mount it in a 4-jaw such that the long round diameter can be turned with a live-center in the tailstock. (And/or roller-type steady rest.)
That boring bar trick was really neat, I’m keeping it in my bag!
its a good one.
Confession - probably didn't think long enough but, hadn't come up with the "Pie" approach. It is most elegant/effective and great to see. More than one way to skin a cat but this one was worthy of a taxidermist! Nice job Joe. :)
Hey Chris hope you’re getting along 👍🏻
Sort of - but rather slower these days! Thx for asking :)
Best wishes Chris.
(paused) I have done these parts in the past. I would begin with a rectangle piece of steel, clamp the head section in a 4 jaw chuck in the lathe and turn between centers. Then the turned part is clamped in a square collet on the mill and the various machining operations are accomplished on the rectangular head.
Nice work Joe; it fits very well.
I probably would have turned a small spigot on the end of the bolt and silver soldered it to the hook. Pickling and clean up is a pain though. Your method ensures that you don't wind up with a molten blob of brass
I am continually amazed when I see you machining these parts you make it look so easy. Then you insert your hand into the frame and you realise the entire part is only 10% of the size of your thumb nail, amazing. I love your work.
A very good friend since passed, was very much like you. I would watch Ian for hours working on his lathe or mill utterly confused by what he was doing and where he was going only to see the part appear almost by magic.
To watch & listen to Joe's empathy & patience with perfection is always heart strengthening & brain calming.
WONDERFUL.
After viewing this treasure, I feel greatly calmed & my life has been extended.
Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for your work on this channel. I have never watched a video of yours and failed to learn something new, I am a better machinist because of your vids. You sir are a a professor of machining !
Glad to help
You never cease to amaze me with your craftsmanship, skill and imagination. Great work.!
Great to see the upside down reverse threading operation in the bonus footage! In my work I frequently have to accurately thread the end of long tubes that have a spiral feature inside the tube. Concentricity and co-axial alignment are important both on the OD thread and precision internal shape on the ID of one end of the tube. Set up is critical and time intensive involving multiple dial indicators.
Threading away from the shoulder eliminates the heart stopping moment, potential damage to the workpiece and loss of the precision set up time
Showing that technique was my first channel video and responsible for the rest of the material.
@@joepie221 That was the first video of yours I saw and it made me realize there where at least three of us, you, the guy who taught me and me. Since then you have taught me a lot of set up techniques and some great techniques for de tangling spiders. I even read the patents you were involved in for the medical fixtures. As a retired Paramedic and someone who’s lower and mid back are held together with some pretty extensive hardware, I’ve also had some facial work around my eye socket and 6 weeks ago had my arthritis ravaged toe fused. When it heals they will do the other foot. I’m sure you sorted out what I work on now. We’re it not for surgeons and toolmakers who figured out how to fix broken people I would not be walking and would have no sight in one eye. I guess what I’m saying is THANKS JOE.
@@takedeadaim8671 I've been very fortunate to have been given the opportunity to contribute in that field and truly blessed to have the ability to design some very helpful products. I know I've helped a great deal of people that I'll never meet and I'm OK with that. Glad your still kicking, and thanks for the comment.
Watching you do some of the work you do is magic! Today I was trying to figure out how to do a tricky setup on the mill and thought, "what would Joe do?" Then remembered an early video that you had done and got it squared away. Thank you for all you do to enlighten us.
thank you. Thats flattering.
I would have made a mess out of that one. Impressive work holding.
The workholding is always so obvious! (In hindsight. Lol.) That silly little square cornered sacrificial “fixture” with two scraps of aluminum for the radiusing is the kind of thing I never seem to come up with on my own. Priceless content as always. Thanks!
The man got the patience of a saint! I'm happy to be able to make hydraulic cylinder glad or something like that. As always sir I enjoyed watching.
Joe, I started making a list of the sub-lessons I learned in this one, and and quickly spiraled into nuance I had to experience to understand. Amazing output, as always. Here are my key take aways:
Run the tool backwards to establish a witness cut on radially-constrained features. This is to keep as much original material as possible. On tiny components, the remaining base material is important even if you can't see what was removed.
Make each witness cut with the motor in reverse,, independently, to eliminate ambiguity about which one influenced the outcome. Measure and evaluate.
Subsequent exterior features should be plunged to depth (or until cutter depth approaches 3x slot diameter). Repeat as necessary,. No shallow , broad cuts deep radial features.
Only extend X/Y planar motion to the edge of the part. Over-travel is likely to kick up a burr when the system (cutter and bearings) unloads.
Keep your machine tolerances working FOR you
Keep your tools sharp, and your brain sharper.
Thanks for sharing.
In case anyone other than the content creator reads this: Take a YT break and try to set this up in your own machine. You're probably going to find some things that need adjustment, which will make everything you do with that machine better.
Not only impressive, but every time you get out the boring head, I learn a new tip. Great fit and finish, thx Joe.
Thanks Bear.
Very elegant solution, Joe...I'm very impressed.
Make it in two pieces, plug weld on top, machine it down
That was amazingly impressive, Joe. Your skills continue to baffle me.
Like many of the comments below, your videos always show great ideas on setups and processes that I can learn from.
Just last week I was trying to figure out how to cut a radius on a part on the rotary table. Yep, you have a video about cutting 2 different size radius and how to do the layout. Very clear and easy for me to understand. You would have been a good teacher in school.
Thanks for the videos.
Joe Hynes
Thanks Joe. I've taught many young guys and enjoyed every minute.
Hold the door.. new Pie vid!...
The master of sequences.
Hi Joe, great build series! Do you realize that your barrel is upside down? The reunions are in the lower part of the barrel. This is so that the cannons can fire into the opponents hill in close quarters broadsides, as you have it they cannot be aimed low enough 😊
Hi Joe. Using the square collet block was good thinking, it saved a lot of time truing the work up. Enjoyed watching the process. Tony
Simply......Outstanding........
Always love your ingenious approach and solutions to machining operations. Particularly setups and work holding. I Often find myself thinking “how would Joe Pie do it” when facing similar challenges myself.
Yes! You,me and thousands of lesser machinists lol
Thank you very much!
Thanks guys. I love a good holding challenge.
Oh yeah my Mann this guys the real deal mo-fo’in Holyfield!!! Love this guy ✌️💖&💡
I think if it were me I'd have made the strap a separate piece soldered to the round stock, but your approach is waaay cooler. 🙂
Just incredible....
Time 15:08, bringing 2 parts together... Imagine a hick up... and the parts had been destroyed... What drugs do You take to have the nerves? JOKING!!!!!
You have shown us more than a lot of incredible machining. Only one things remains, how to mix the powder for this scale canon? Joking!
Stay well Yourself!
Cheers.
Nice work Joe, I like the way you test yourself on these tiny parts and allow us to learn a wide range of problems to solve and mess with outside the box, cheers!
Thanks 👍 I love a good challenge. What's the worst that can happen?? Ya fail and get another chance. That in itself is a win. Either way, you're smarter when its over.
Step turning works well for me. Seems to provide the greatest amount of support at the highest stress point. Looking forward to the rest of the video!
I would forge its end to do the job, trim it up on a grinder, rinse and repeat. I say 'Never say 'No' to the easy Solution".
@@Grauenwolf I'm with you, I'd hard solder the cap. With forging brass I would worry about the integrity of the brass over time either bending or cracking. Casting would be the way I'd go if I had to make a ton of them
Having been around naval cannon quite a bit, I know how the old timers did it. The hasp was forged separate from the rod. Often both ends of the rod was threaded and nuts were used.
Logical. I would have thought it was bent plate.
A stunning piece of milling Joe,wow- awesome job!🤯🏆
Thanks, Glad you enjoyed it.
Thats some fine machining!
WOW! A beautiful solution.
I did not come up with that method of machining it. Thanks, I learned something again.
Always admire your thought process! Great work!
I appreciate that!
I was expecting Joe to make a rose cutter like Stephan G. Did to make his plastic lollipops recently. Always interesting to see different approaches to similar challenges
Amazing well thought,well done project and very interesting comments.I appreciate your multiview projection drawings.Thank you.
Thanks. They help.
holding your breath while making these parts should be a good excercise for scuba diving !!!!
Very true.
Learning made fun. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! All learning should be fun.
Slick! Love it!
As usual nicely done. KOKO!
thats a time consuming part but with great results Joe. I initially thought to make it in 2 pieces like you thought except making it an interference fit and possibly Loctite
I did the second one today. 1 hour 45 minutes complete. The one in this video took 5X that with the camera, editing and lighting.
Make it out of a large bolt using the head of the bolt for the hinge end
But that's cheating. You've got to use materials provided to qualify for a prize!!
Just a reminder. This is NOT a kit.
As I watched this I keep thinking of the annular cutter that Stefan Gotteswinter posted last week making his little plastic lollipops.
Same here. I'm not sure if Joe has a fancy tool grinder like Stefan.
My Dad always said the most valuable bit of Blacksmithing a toolmaker can learn is how to upset a bar. If you can increase the diameter by 50% to accommodate a feature you can half the cost of the stock required. Of course this only applies to steel and small features, anything complicated that's when you need the phone number of a good industrial blacksmith.
Or a liquor store that delivers. :)
A neat clever solution Joe, I would not have thought to do it your way! However,I would have gone down the 2 piece route too. I would have drilled and tapped the top piece and either soft soldered or maybe silver sodered the 2 together. It's always good to learn other ideas tho'. Thanks.
If the top shelf was thicker, I may have gone that way, but the load is pulling down on the shaft so I had to be careful with the solution.
I really enjoy your solutions! It would be great to see how you go about building a Quorn tool and cutter grinder. I'm sure you would make a definitive reference video for building the "Holy Grail" of model Engineering projects! All the best, Matthew
It looks bigger when you had it in the lathe and then your finger comes into the shot and I realized just how small that part is in reality! I am really impressed at your level of meticulous work. But you are slipping in your old age. Not one time did you "unloosen" the part verbally!
I'll have to make up for that in future videos.
I really like this video = you are always coming up with answers that somehow evade me!!!
Thanks. Stretch that memory bank. Life gets easier. :)
This is probably a lot more precise than the original full sized cannons. I presume they forged the entire part, having the cylinder be rough enough to fit through an oversized hole. And I would guess that they weren't held in place with a screw at the bottom either. That would be a lot of work to forge, when a locking pin would work equally as well at that large scale.
Small scale models run into all sorts of problems that the original makers never had to consider. And use tools that the makers could only have dreamed about. These cannon pre-date the invention of the modern machine lathe and milling machine. Compound rests had been invented, but from what I can find out, were used for ornamental turning. (Leonardo da Vinci may have been the first to think of such a design, but Andrew Nartov of Russia is the first known person to build a lathe with a geared compound rest in 1718)
Segmenting the rod immediately reminded me of the engineering change to the support rods of the Hyatt Regency Skywalker that collapsed in Kansas City, MO.
I'm this change will be fine here, but it did remind of that disaster.
There's was an offset segmented rod. This one is inline. Unusual reference.
11:35 No weapons on this channel, says the man and continues making the model of the cannon🤭👍.
Shhhhhh.....
@@joepie221 Don't worry, I won't tell anyone, I sure won't🤫.
I always learn something new.
I always pick up some great hints on how to approach these tricky items. This time it was a whole basket full of good ideas.
Very interesting approach to machining this part.
Beautiful precision work. Reminds me of links to my watch band. Your work is simply incredible.
Thanks. Glad you enjoy it!
Thanks again Joe
Nice job,, miniature parts are a real challenge.
Slick work, Joe.
Cast them.
I would make it in two parts, a 1/8th bar and make the other part from a square bar and drill a hole, then silver solder or weld. Good work, well done.
Same basic concept; but riveted…
Create the hinge, drill a hole through centred on the shaft and 1.5-2mm diameter with a good deburring chamfer on the top face; then create the shaft. Get a good shoulder and make it over-length at a good fit to the hole by the thickness of the plate plus 0.5mm? (maybe more). Fit the two together and peen the upstand down. Finally dress the mushroom off the top to get back to a flat plate.
The metal filling the chamfer and the hoop stress in the plate should be more than enough.
@@LoneEagle2061 Also a solution.
Yes that's the way I'd have gone about it, but Joe's solution is a true machinists way of doing it.
@@samrodian919 Very true. I also like the idea of making the end of the rod in such a way as you can rivet it as suggested by someone else.
Press fit and peen would have been a great way to go as well.
Incredible
Glad your back, great work as usual
Thanks Joe
I’d make it as two pieces; turn the long piece, then make the hinge piece, then join them with either a small screw or tapered pin. Once done, silver solder the two together and clean up (the silver solder, and any flux.)
Just like double sided tape, soldering is never at the top of my solution option list. But good and viable solution.
The precision is amazing.🙂🙂
Thanks. I'm almost done.
mistrzostwo,rzemiosło z górnej półki
Dziękuję za komentarz
You always make the difficult look easy. Nice work Joe!
Thank you.
on the full size cannons, pretty sure these were originally made of multiple parts banged together by a blacksmith, because the revolution in mass production started toward the end of the industrial revolution with the mass production of small arms which could be easily interchanged and stocked with spare parts. Just a conjecture though, feel free to provide evidence to the pro or con. thanks ~Mike
Joe, I just got a quote on putting two studs in my jaw to mount crowns on for 10 K ,not including the crowns. I wish you lived a little closer we could make a deal 😉 , I like brass. Decided I could buy a whole lot of blenders for that amount and drink my dinners 😂. Boy it’s great getting old !
Great work holding. Thanks for sharing Joe
Thanks for watching!
Always enjoy your videos!
Nice work. An interesting part to form. It shows that you really do have a brain, no matter your song.
I love the stuff when you are machining small. It gives me ideas for some stuff that I need to make.
Very nice indeed.
I would love to see you make a clock or something similarly intricate. Dont need to be too small but the part's shape and design should pose a problem. Like your machine models but just a lot more difficult. That's why I watch this channel. Problem solving... you surely have no skill shortage..
I think Chris from Clickspring would've filed the whole piece to its final shape.🙂
Beautiful work,love the tapered tooth pick,cheers
Thank you very much!
Fantastic I would never have thought of doing in in that setup thanks for this video.
I made the second one in a rotary indexer and indicated the part into the square collet block for the final vertical op's. It was much more convenient initially. ( plus I didn't have to film it )
An absolute pleasure to see your work Joe ! Thank you as always.
Thank you. This little cannon was supposed to be the easier option.
Thanks! Good work! /Gustav, Sweden
Thank you Gustav.
Pretty clever Joe Pie!
God gave you a lot of machining knowledge and abilities.
God bless you!
He surely has in many ways. Its also nice to enjoy what ya do too.
Joe, I know you said in the past that your boring head was solid. PLEASE make people aware that the cheapie Chinese boring heads screw onto a shank and must NOT be run in reverse as the head could unscrew off the shank and cause damage or even an accident. Regards from Australia.
Interesting milling. But at 66 with a couple simultaneous strokes and heart attacks and 5 Bypass surgery under your belt there are sometimes, too many times like this afternoon that my mind just doesn’t want to think/visualize in in 2D yet alone 3D like it used to. Between a life of 46 years living in chronic pain with sleep deprivation and either the Duloxetene and/or the Neurontin which are part of my prescribed pain management protocols I have had trouble thinking and envisioning things as I was able to before starting them those meds many years ago. Hoping some pending neck and back surgeries will eliminate the need for both, or one or at least a considerable reduction in dosage of those two meds to see if my ability to visualize such activities will return on how to do mechanical things associated with such activities. Some days I wonder if my dreams and hopes to have a hobby machine shop with potential side income is a valid reality. But, I still enjoy watching others do it. Oh well, as long as you can stay safe and have some extra materials it’s only time and materials to try again in your efforts and it’s just learning how to and how not to do it. Damnit I still want to do machining with something more than a metal saw, grinder, drill, file and emery cloth. LOL. As always enjoy your videos with narration of first showing what you are going to build and how you are going to do it. Really enjoy your many years of knowledge broken down for us pre-novices/wannabe machinists like myself.
I think you have the barrel upside down. Historically, the trunion was centered on the low line of the bore. That way, the barrel is driven against the quoin when fired instead of away.
Paused to make comment on method i would use: Silver solder 2 pieces of stock together to form the overall component.
Edit to add: watching your solution confirms our ideas are very similar but you have gone with a mechanical fixing method rather than my silver soldering jointing method. Good plan,Joe👍
I was about to make your exact same comment, so instead of doing that I'll just say "me too!" 🙂
Amazing machining job like usual. You always have challenging approaches on how to manufacture small parts on large machines. You prove that size of the machine is not a limitation. Your next project should be the 68 pounder carronade (HMS Victory).
Nice work Joe. I like how you think outside the box. thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
He is great at taking a box and making it a round eh. Esp when they are off center 1/2 way eh, LOL.
I am again in awe at your talent!
Thank you very much.
Spot on as usual cheers from OZ,
Another fantastic video Joe. I love your small projects and the lessons in workpiece fixturing that I learn from each video
Thanks for picking up on the how its done, and really not the part.
Proper job, mate.
Just another amazing video...precision at its finest Joe!
thanks for sharing keep up the good work
Thank you, I will give it my best effort.
I was thinking soldering a solid center instead of a screw. Much more interested in the way you machined the trunnion. That's two very interesting "small parts" videos this weekend. Stefan Gotteswinter showed some very small machining also.
Dude, The boring bar set-up is awesome! I would have never thought of that. I was thinking lathe or rotary table. Great insight!
Glad you liked it. Its very versatile.
You're the MAN Joe!