Cutting threads and worm gears on a lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 เม.ย. 2018
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In this video I cut three kinds of screws - the leadscrew, show how I'll cut and polish the small screws that hold everything together, and the worm gear that drives the small dial. A tutorial on threading on the lathe will come later.
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Somewhere between This old Tony and Clickspring, I love it!!
Oh man thats what I was saying watching this. I like it new sub
Yea the entire time I thought I was listening to this Young Tony or something
was about to post that exact comment. LOL
That is high praise. I agree.
It's a very Clickspring project; he's more efficient though.
It's a bit of a drag watching him polish every pinion by hand (Although very admirable).
I got to help (in a minor capacity) restore a Dutch house organ from ~1770 and they used handmade screws.
It looked like they made a jig to hold a file at an angle above the rod of metal, then they slowly rotated and advanced the rod in another jig with a tab to catch/align the new threads.
The end result was maybe 1.5" long with 5 TPI buttress threads.
Using a tap to machine the worm gear is amazing. I have limited experience but have never seen this approach. Amazing.
The things you just did with that lathe, I have never seen anyone else do. This is definitely up there with my personal TH-cam heros, ToT and AvE. Thank You.
You're right. Making that brass worm gear was pretty cool. Never seen it done that way.
Machine Thinking, I'm getting deeply involved into tool restoration, and for now, I can only dream about learning basic machining: lathe, mill, & saw. And what's so interesting about your video is that my favorite two tools are my dial calipers and vernier micrometer. The whole concept of how they work is so cool. It never occurred to me to have an ambition to recreate one, as you are. Super great video. I sure wish you were my next door neighbor and could help ease my learning curve!
DUDE. The way you cut that worm gear with the tap was so simple yet genius. I am sure many machinists have spents hours trying to figure out that.
Beautiful computer generated images of the micrometer's mechanism.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to produce such illustrations. They obviously required a lot of work. (You're a man of many talents.) Your efforts are much appreciated.
Kevin Byrne not to destroy your dream but most cad programs have a render option included
@@Thefreakyfreek -- It wasn't necessary for him to do this, but he did. So I'm grateful.
@@kevinbyrne4538 Exactly!
"not quite perfect" when it looks that beautiful, you have incredible craftsmanship
Old school handle turning Machinist here. I cant believe I didn't find this channel sooner. Great techniques.
my 2 favorite channels: this one, and AvE
Ahhh they are good but they ain't no this old tony
U should check out click spring
What channel is AvE ? Is that an abbreviation
This is awesome, glad to see more machinist videos on TH-cam, they're so satisfying to watch!
Enjoyed the video! I recently learned that you do not use a center drill to start a drill but use a spotting drill. You will notice your drill does not follow your center drilling well resulting in a off center hole.
Your videos are brilliant. I work as a aerospace mechanic, but aspire to be an engineer. I thinking about taking some machinist course at the local votech before going any further.
Best pore mans DRO video saved me hundreds when you consider I can turn on 50" centres. Liked it that much I adapted the idea for my Bridgeport. #lathedro #tailstockdro #digitalreadout
How To Make a Lathe Ways Digital Scale | Lathe DRO
Apart from the machining, a lot of effort went into the production of this video. An absolute pleasure to watch! Thank you!
This is amazingly relaxing for some reason
I know I'm a year late to the video but not everyone who happen to be very good at what they do are also very good at explaining how the did it, but you are. you would make a great teacher. narration and voce is spot on. you can tell you love what you do. thanks for all the posting.
Used a tap as a hob! That's glorious!
This guy is giving so much value it's insane. So appreciated.
Very nice - Good video and I like when a presenter includes their mistakes. Always a lesson to be learned!
Watching those cuts walk right back into the teeth of the spinning tap was magical!
You sure have a lot of unique technique and cool tooling. Thanks for sharing your work!
Not a hands on person but watching this is so satisfying i really cant explain?
Yahoo I just found you!!! I hope all of the rest of your videos are as good as this one.
Holy shit idk much about any of this stuff but I almost spat my beer out when I saw that black polish. The science makes sense and it looks super cool
Definitely subbed
Bravo! It has never occurred to me to use a tap as a hob. I have been enjoying your movies lately.
"A nice even 5/16 th" Ha ! Ha ! Ha ! You imperial folks always amaze me.
Great video. Subscribed.
8mm, 5/16, same difference!
'imperial folks'? maybe just call them 'emperors' ...
There's two kinds of countries...
@@uTube486 one's that went to the moon and those that use metric
@@JimmysTractor well...
.3150 vs .3125 😉
Look at 0:42 & 1:34 see how the bit is forced to move towards the left slightly to get into his center hole? Either the bits are slightly bent or his drill chuck and what ever is supporting it (tail stock) is not parallel to the lathe bed. The shorter the bit (center drill) the closer the end of it will be to the center of the work piece and the longer the bit the angle moves the end of the bit away from center. What that means though is that his center bit is not really correct either, It might be close but it is not quite right. When I noticed the drill bit doing it I thought it was a bent bit but when the reamer did it also I thought it is might be the tail stock assembly.
I'm well aware of my tailstock not lining up 100% correctly, which is made worse when something long like a reamer is placed on it. My lathe had the bed reground before I got it and the tailstock was (poorly) shimmed back up and I haven't got it nearly perfect. It compounded by the fact it's a fairly worn tailstock about 30 years older than the rest of the lathe.
I was told that the long shank of a reamer is designed that way partly so it can flex/bend to follow the drilled hole.
workpiece not dialled into 4 jaw chuck i recon & tungsten carbide on brass?!? no complaints though - i loved this video.
hmmmm oh wait thats a 3 jaw.
And not tungsten carbide
It's always fascinating to see an expert ! thank you for posting.
Amazing talent that raises machining to an art form.
so addictive to watch, thank you for all the hard work
You had me subscribe right when you made that worm gear!
Man, I am loving your videos.
Tailstock die and tap power threading tip.
Learned it from an old timer just a few months ago
Makes it easier.
Leave the tailstock lose and free moving, when it catches the thread it autofeeds perfectly....
Until you catch a shoulder and pull your hair out while pulling peices of metal out of your small die. But it takes less practice
I got to go out and get myself a metal turning lathe. The things you can do with it or just incredible and it's therapeutic to watch them work. As it is to watch your video. Thanks for this
Nice video, but in regards to the tapping/threading die, you might wanna untighten the tailstock (so it'll slide just easy enough) and have it "pulled" towards the spindle. This will get you through most threads, aside the ones that are more of a surface finish (i.e. below M2).
I've found another channel! I love this sort of stuff. Subscribed!
Hot damn that looks like a fun way to spend an afternoon. Wish I knew someone who had a lathe to play around with.
i have just got my first lathe and i find your show very informing thanks
You are a mad man, and I love you! I have to thank your mom and dad for bringing you to this world just to be curious human being that you are. I use a caliper every day but I never thought of even thinking about who made it??? I make things. I make custom made lighting fixtures. 2' to 20'+ in diameter. Thank you for this... Thanks man. You are amazing.
GREAT VIDEO. Keep them coming. admirable work !!!
I'm a machinist for a living. I make flight parts and just regular turbine parts for GE power units. Lot of dovetails in blade rings and cutting chamfers on blade segments to go into the dovetails. Anyway that measuring tool that you were using to measure your brass bushing is a vernier. A vernier scale to be exact. It is not a micrometer. It might measure out to thousands, but at micrometer has a dial and indications for .0001 as well as half .0001. I like your channel though it's definitely informative though for people new to this machining thing.
Phenomenal attention to detail!
Very nice! You‘re channel will hit 100k subs in no time!
I love the music. Makes the video all that more enjoyable.
The high speed steel inserts are a great note.. never heard of them before and they clearly have a place, especially for "home shops." Good job.. as we've come to expect.. very thoughtful (or maybe I should say "pre-thoughtful" as it reflects the planning phase).
Awesome video. Never thought to use a tap as a hob.
that's a really cool technique with the tap!
I'm impressed. Great stuff.
Excellent video. Keep getting the subs, you'll be able to get that dro soon! My old Newall Sapphire just quit, so I need to get one too.
Thorughly enjoyable, but I can't help feeling it's not quite representative, it purports to show how early machinists made this micrometer, but it unabashedly uses an _endless_ array of modern conveniences and machinists tools. It it does not in any way teach about how this device was actually made back in the day, it shows how to build it when you have full access to a modern machine shop and all the knowledge of a trained machiniest.
Theses have all the thrill of a good technical manual! (But that’s a really GOOD thing for us engineering geeks!)
Right up there with Marty's Matchbox Makeovers
I highly recommend quickly throwing together a wood guard to put over the bedways while changing out the chuck. They are really simple to make - plywood and 2 2x4's to sit around the back and front of the ways. 99% of the time it won't do anything, but that 1% when the chuck accidentally slips, it will save your hands/fingers from a serious injury and the ways from accidental damage.
I appreciate the thought - I actually do have a board I use when I change into my 4 jaw chuck - it's a beast, but the smaller ones I feel comfortable not using it and the Jacobs chuck is especially light.
Even just a canvas cloth ( old pair of jeans material) will work well there, and as a bonus just keep it oiled, with a blend of engine oil and a little wax, and it provides a bed lube and rust protection at the same time.
I put a piece of plywood over the ways when I am changing parts / chuck at work. Most of the time they are too heavy to lift by hand though; That big 4 jaw is HEAVY.
AWESOME! I do so wish I had pursued my bearly interest in tool and die making.
Your. Videos. Are. Awesome.
Great video, and I really like your channel. Just a couple of things... your tailstock is miles off the centre line, the reamer you show near the beginning has to move a huge amount sideways to enter the hole. That needs adjusting.
At 5:35 you state that for Carbide inserts you need high RPM and deep cuts. These statements are completely false. Yes, you CAN use them at higher RPM and you CAN take deep cuts but you don't HAVE to. I use them all the time in the home workshop and they are much more convenient and longer lasting than HSS tools. I still use HSS for the occasional one where the shape demands it, but for general turning, it's Carbide all the way. Sharp corners should be avoided wherever possible and slight changed to designs easily accommodate a small corner radius. I'd recommend them to anyone.
22 years machining, I agree I make light cuts and low rpm with carbine on a lathe all the time, works just fine.
Great ideas. I see your Jacob’s flex collet chuck locking ring has broken teeth like mine.
When this happened I thought all was lost. I polished the burrs and continue to use it when needed. They have their place.
I've got to make one of those tailstock die holders soon for one of my projects, although I mainly work in plastic and with extra fine threads so I can rotate the chuck by hand and feed gently with the tailstock unlocked.
I found with plastic carbide inserts work really well, just have to use them as brand new for plastic, and then later on you can use them for anything else. Works well with PTFE, which needs that really sharp edge to get any sort of stability in the part. Same for drilling it, brand new cobalt steel bits are perfect, later on you still get good results on steel, though I found that 316 stainless I just budget one drill bit per hole hand held, especially using HSS ones. Work hardening on stainless can be a real PITA, especially if you are doing repairs and cannot detemper the part.
Don't know why you are not famous, or maybe you are. Your voice over talent alone is amazing.
I really like your videos ... keep it up!
Great stuff. You don't mention during your threading operation how you go about it. I have done threads many times and find it challenging and rewarding. Those who haven't done it would probably benefit from a detailed explanation. That said, you do very excellent content and this project is quite interesting. Thanks for doing the work.
Well done! Excited to see more. Some history on screw making would be an awesome follow up.
Way ahead of you there! Have a pile of historical research done, but it will be several months before I have access to my shop again and can do the practical part.
Machine Thinking awesome! I'm looking forward to what you have up your sleeve. It's like PBS did a whole series on foundations of mechanical accuracy. Keep up the good work
I've got a thing for making screws... no idea why it took me so long to get around to watching this video, lol. Well done! 🙂
The music indicates, you have a sense of humor. Loved it. Thumbs up and subscribed. Oh by the way, I've made my fair share of scrap accidents. That's how we learn,,,isn't it? Take care.
You can't claim to be a real machinist until you have scrapped about a ton of material.
Dana Schoen
You are so right. Take care.
Nice work! For a real black polish though, I would suggest diamond paste on a zinc block that has been either milled or filed flat. You can use the same procedure that you did with the emery cloth and paper in the lathe but with a zinc disc. Sacrificial anodes for boats come in handy.
holy cats that brings back memories ... the first lathe i ever used had the jacobs chuck ..great vid ...peace out
You are excellent in content and presentation. I only wish you made more content. Your videos excite my brain.
It takes me a long time to make each video. I'm launching a Patreon soon to help with hiring some people to assist me.
Addicted
Thanks. I learned a lot here.
I sort of want to just have a lathe and just turn stock down over and over. Just watching the chips come off looks so satisfying.
That tap hobbing was neat, never seen that before. Hope your tailstock it is better aligned than it looked.
I have an old micrometer that looks similar to the french Palmer design. It doesn't have a maker's mark and I have always wondered how old it is. I mean I suppose it could just be something that was cheaply made to an old design during the war, but I really don't know.
With that screw at the last end of your presentation, you'll want to make a hollowground screwdriver that matches so, that you don't torque out as you tighten the screw.
Love watching those chips fly!
Great video.
Remarkable. Thanks so much!
That method of making the worm gear using that tap as a hob is shear genius
I cant take credit for doing it first but it is highly effective!
Love my A.R. Warner HHS insert lathe tooling.
I need more of this!
Nicely shot and edited. I loved the tasteful use of music to liven up the process shots.
Hey, I love your videos, and I am slowly watching them in order. I had a quick question/comment about this one.
In this video, you had a point while you were making that one piece with the kind of mushroom profile. You bored the hole in it using several different bits, and I was hoping you would have explained the why, and what the smoke was each time, and the liquid you were adding.
I'm sure experienced machinists would know exactly what you were doing, but I'm a layman, and was hoping for more detail there.
Cheers, and thanks for making these awesome videos.
Ok...looks like I'm going to binge watch all your videos. I like how you did the lighting on the mill shots with the background all dark. I'm going to have to experiment with that. Any tips? ~P
Love the chuck key
If you're using a collett, and your size is simply in between two different collets, so long as you start and finish your piece without removing it at all until completely finished:
You can simply wrap a piece of paper, or Emory cloth around the work piece to increase the diameter.
*obviously it will not be completely concentric, that's why you must do all your machining before removing it.*
So it's only applicable to very specific circumstances.
(Love that tap, used as your cog idea, I've not seen that before. Very good idea.)
*great videos* ☀️😎🇺🇸☀️
I have only watched a few videos. But, you have already reached "click 'like' as soon as the video begins" status. I look forward to catching up on every video you have made so far and will be watching all of your future endeavors as well.
when the music came in I was like..... "what a jolly good time old chap"
Regarding tap/die use in the tailstock: make a sliding holder with a handle for those small (< M8 threads) threads, that way you don't have any problems following the tool with your tailstock and makes it less tedious to work with.
Hope you don't mind this comment but you need a little cutting oil. It will make your bits last a LOT longer. You've got a lot of talent there.
Lastly my shop lathe was a POS that my home drill press made it even more accurate. It's a matter of making a tool right to keep it under control then it will work fairly well.
You could make a rotating lap for the lathe and polish the heads perfectly that way.
Hint instead of trying to follow the die in while cranking the tail stock, just loosen the tail stock to where it slides easily and push it in and pull it out. 40 years a machinist, you'll have less problems this way.
My dream vintage milling machine was a German made machine made by "G. Boley" but I missed out on one due to not having enough cash during a auction.
I love the scrap count. I try to reuse scrap aluminium on a daily basis or whatever matches manufactor's specifications.
wow this is great
at 1:35 i'm pretty much sure many machinists just went "REEEEEEEEEEEEEE"
Very cool.
If you use a lay laydown threading insert you can take some pretty impressive cuts, particularly on a 10EE such as yours.
Nice lathe, I see the taper attachment. I wonder if it has electric leadscrew reverse?
@@jeffbeck9444 the headstock fwd/rev control is there so probably not
Wow brilliant
I've been doing this kind of work for nearly fifty years. Jimmy Carter was president the last time I used oil on anything.
Bingo Sun Noon why?
@@timvandenbrink4461 ; He ran out.
you need to re set your tail stock. You will like it better if you do. I noticed that when the reamer found the hole it had to bend over to get in the hole. Correct this by adjusting the tail stock . Unlike a lot of small lathes your tail stock is adjustable.
The music in this. Vertiigo and rust. Anyone else? 😄
ONT great video!