when ever i do a crt swap if the plug dose not match or yokes dont have identical DC resistance i leave old yoke on when i swap CRT, that being a black and white makes it super simple, no convergence or purity to worry about. size and geometry and rotation is all you need, and the first 2 should be decent from start.
Nope, Wish I did though but I dont do enough CRT stuff to justify having one. But, in my case the Phosphor looked pretty bad as well so rejuvination or gun cleaning wouldnt help much anyways.
i actually bought a CRT tester for a friend at one point, after shipping for me it was around 30 bucks as the seller lived about 30mi from me. my friend lived on other side of country so shipping made it around 70$ i did not want to pay that but since i made the money off ebay i still did, and my point is crt testers arrent a bank breaker any more and if you look you can get one for the cheep side.
The adjusted vertical height of the new SE/30 CRT is too tall, you'll ruin the aspect ratio. This is mentioned in several service manuals. The height of the Classic is more correct. Not the biggest concern but I thought I'd mention it anyways. Good video as always!
8bitbubsy Yes, I am well aware of this. If you want to keep it 100% WYSIWYG DPI, then sure. Otherwise, these days, who cares? Id rather fill the raster to gain more screen real-estate than be ergonomically correct. But other people may disagree.
I seriously hope you parted out that mac plus or even just sold the case to someone wanting to do a project with it, I mean if you didn't it's alright, it's been 6 years but idk where this comment is going honestly
I can see and hear crackling electricity in the clear bulb part behind the crt (the part with the pins that are poking out.) Any idea what this part is called and if it is fixable? Thanks.
Hey TechKnight- I bought a Macintosh Classic at an online auction and walked into a mess: th-cam.com/video/28oguKG2vB0/w-d-xo.html I've never fixed these old macs before, but figure I can handle replacing the tube. Was wondering what your thoughts were on getting the broken neck out of the yoke. The tubes on Ebay don't have the yoke, and I'm already $57 down buying the thing, so not a whole lot of room for buying parts and getting my money back selling on Ebay. I'd like to get it working again, but am willing to cut my losses and sell for parts. it came with the OEM mouse and keyboard, too.
Thank you so much for this essential clip. To top it all, doing it on a bed while holding a camera. You're a techmaster.
very good, thanks
Thanks, it made my day, as I learnt so much.
i was able to fix my mac because of this
Very glad it was of use to you!
btw what are the capacitors you used when you recapped the motherboard and logic board?
I'm still at "game over" waiting for parts and a replacement crt
would a mac plus CRT be compatible with a mac classic II?
Yes as long as you do what I did in the video and move only the CRT over, but keeping the yoke from the classic
Have a classic I recapped, and when I went to test it, I hear a super scary crackling noise from the analog board somewhere... help? :P
when ever i do a crt swap if the plug dose not match or yokes dont have identical DC resistance i leave old yoke on when i swap CRT, that being a black and white makes it super simple, no convergence or purity to worry about. size and geometry and rotation is all you need, and the first 2 should be decent from start.
guess i should save comments till end of video.
i take it you dont have a crt tester? before trashing i would like to see what kinda impact rejuve would have.
Nope, Wish I did though but I dont do enough CRT stuff to justify having one. But, in my case the Phosphor looked pretty bad as well so rejuvination or gun cleaning wouldnt help much anyways.
i actually bought a CRT tester for a friend at one point, after shipping for me it was around 30 bucks as the seller lived about 30mi from me. my friend lived on other side of country so shipping made it around 70$ i did not want to pay that but since i made the money off ebay i still did, and my point is crt testers arrent a bank breaker any more and if you look you can get one for the cheep side.
Does the Macintosh SE have a bleeder resistor in the flyback?
Depends on which type it has. Type C does, Type B does not.
How can I tell which type it is?
there is usually an apple part number on the flyback itself. Ends with either a B or a C.
Ok I will look at it next time I have it apart. Thanks.
That was awesome !!!
What voltage caps should i use
The adjusted vertical height of the new SE/30 CRT is too tall, you'll ruin the aspect ratio. This is mentioned in several service manuals. The height of the Classic is more correct. Not the biggest concern but I thought I'd mention it anyways.
Good video as always!
8bitbubsy Yes, I am well aware of this. If you want to keep it 100% WYSIWYG DPI, then sure. Otherwise, these days, who cares? Id rather fill the raster to gain more screen real-estate than be ergonomically correct. But other people may disagree.
I seriously hope you parted out that mac plus or even just sold the case to someone wanting to do a project with it, I mean if you didn't it's alright, it's been 6 years but idk where this comment is going honestly
parts were used in other machines, yes. But it has been 7 years so I dont know all the details entirely.
Would you be able to help me fix mine?
I can see and hear crackling electricity in the clear bulb part behind the crt (the part with the pins that are poking out.) Any idea what this part is called and if it is fixable? Thanks.
Hey TechKnight- I bought a Macintosh Classic at an online auction and
walked into a mess: th-cam.com/video/28oguKG2vB0/w-d-xo.html
I've never fixed these old macs before, but figure I can handle replacing the tube. Was wondering what your thoughts were on getting the broken neck out of the yoke. The tubes on Ebay don't have the yoke, and I'm already $57 down buying the thing, so not a whole lot of room for buying parts and getting my money back selling on Ebay. I'd like to get it working again, but am willing to cut my losses and sell for parts. it came with the OEM mouse and keyboard, too.
well, got the neck out. That was easy. Do I dare take the anode off? Will I die?
i know im comment bomming at this point but i have the same oilier your have on your fan.