Watched both your removal and install videos. It was just the information I needed. Getting ready to do the windows on my 1953 chevy pickup. The kerosene was a great help. Thanks again Chris from Arizona USA
I have another question about the tape. You didn't put the kerosene on the glass side but you later say the glass side will get tacky and setup. Does the kerosene get absorbed through the tape or what? Really enjoying learning from your videos. Thanks Chris
Thank you for doing this How-To video. I was having the same issue but I was concerned about whacking the piece to hard with the mallet. I did everything just like you showed and it worked out great!
Always good to hear that it worked. It's part of the reason we put together the video, was to give everyone peace of mind when doing it. I've been doing this over a decade and have never broken a single window yet.
Nathan, your tutorial is appreciated. I just did this on a door window glass on my '68 El Camino. Went very well. Would have been reluctant to do it had I not watched your video. I don't have kerosene so I used mineral spirits and that seemed to work just fine.
Good stuff! It's really a task that with a little bit of guidance is quite easy isn't it? You just need to be a bit careful with the mineral spirits. Turps can leave a residue and cause the glass to slip back out again and methylated spirits can dry out the setting tape because it's alcohol/spirit based. You should be right, but just keep an eye on it ;) Happy Cruising mate!
Glad we could help mate! Agreed with you on that one. We always try to be short and to the point but still give as much detail as possible. We appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the video - it’s helped me visualise how things all go together in general terms. I have a 1988 Hilux Surf and Toyota supplies rubber inserts that go between the glass and the channel. I just ordered the rubbers and they have arrived, but for the life of me I can’t work out what holds it all together. Any tips?
It's certainly a lot newer than we generally deal with, however usually for that era it's simply a friction fit. The rubber sits on the glass and the runner will push on and just need to be a tight fit. The older vehicles, had the setting tape tack-off which helped as well. It's generally around this era that some of the companies started to use urethane to bond the runners or small brackets to the glass. So there is a chance that's what they used. As I said though, certainly a bit newer than we generally deal with so I can't say for sure.
Sure would. The only thing that can change is the thickness of the setting tape. It will depend on what thickness glass you use and whether you have original or reproduction metal run channels on the bottom. I find the repro run channels are pretty average and need to be squeezed together (they V open instead of having parallel sides) and are normally too long and need cutting down in length. The glass thickness will vary depending on whether you're using laminated glass, toughened glass (every manfuacturer has a preference or perhaps will supply what they have handy, whether that's best for you or not) etc. There are a few different thickness setting tapes available.
So is lamp oil which is a purified kerosene, what you’re using? We have kerosene available at the pump in bulk but I also have plenty of lamp oil and just hate to go buy if I can just use what I have. Thanks
Just put new glass in my Duece Coupe. Thanks for the instructions. Glass hammered in pretty easy but I think it's pretty well set and I will check it when it sets. How long should I wait for reinstall. Thanks in advance, Jack
haha how very...progressive of CA! Anybody in AZ you can duck over and visit to borrow some haha? At a pinch I've used just regular glass cleaner when I've run out of Kero. It's more just a case of making sure it's lubricated with something that won't leave a film on it later and cause it to slip back off. The glass cleaner just evaporates over time. Just make sure it's snug when you're putting it on. You still need resistance to hold it in place.
G'day mate, Kerosene is the only thing that really works. It's readily available at all hardware stores. I've used some windex at a pinch when we've not had anything else left (I use that for windscreen frames and rear quarter frames where the glass is completely encapsulated and can't slip out, as it gives me longer working time than kero). Do NOT use Turps or WD40 etc. They leave a residue and risk the runner pulling off. Metho is high alcohol content and if anything will dry out the setting tape too quick. So try to track down a bit of kerosene, it's usually only a couple of dollars for a small container.
Sorry for the delayed response. We generally find that the 5/64 works for the runners on most of these early Ford/Mercs. The vents I often need to use the 1/16 but it will depend on what glass you're using too. We use 6mm toughened glass, laminated will change that as it's fractionally different.
Time consuming, due to having to wait for it to dry. Messy if you're not careful (and sometimes even if you are). A pain in the ass to get off if you've screwed up and put it in the wrong spot on the glass, it's dried crooked, or put the wrong channel on the glass...trust me, we get calls weekly from people all over the place that have done that then either broken the window trying to get the runner back off or scratched it. It's just a case of using the right product for the job. It's a couple of minutes to do it properly, or hours waiting for urethane to dry even if it all does go perfectly.
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Watched both your removal and install videos. It was just the information I needed. Getting ready to do the windows on my 1953 chevy pickup. The kerosene was a great help. Thanks again Chris from Arizona USA
Glad we could help mate! We can't wait to get back to the USA one of these days, been too long now. Such an awesome place to spend time!
I have another question about the tape. You didn't put the kerosene on the glass side but you later say the glass side will get tacky and setup. Does the kerosene get absorbed through the tape or what? Really enjoying learning from your videos. Thanks Chris
Great video! Just what I was looking for to do the glass on my 52 Fargo. Cheers from Canada!
Glad we could help mate! Keep up the hard work and have fun too :)
Thank you for doing this How-To video. I was having the same issue but I was concerned about whacking the piece to hard with the mallet. I did everything just like you showed and it worked out great!
Always good to hear that it worked. It's part of the reason we put together the video, was to give everyone peace of mind when doing it. I've been doing this over a decade and have never broken a single window yet.
Perfect video - clear and straight to the point. Did not have kerosene handy. Used charcoal lighting fluid successfully.
Nathan, your tutorial is appreciated. I just did this on a door window glass on my '68 El Camino. Went very well. Would have been reluctant to do it had I not watched your video. I don't have kerosene so I used mineral spirits and that seemed to work just fine.
Good stuff! It's really a task that with a little bit of guidance is quite easy isn't it? You just need to be a bit careful with the mineral spirits. Turps can leave a residue and cause the glass to slip back out again and methylated spirits can dry out the setting tape because it's alcohol/spirit based.
You should be right, but just keep an eye on it ;) Happy Cruising mate!
@@glass4classics427 Thanks for the feedback. Thumbs Up!
Thanks for making a simple, too the point video. I hate the videos where they take 18 minutes to explain a 2 minute process.
Glad we could help mate! Agreed with you on that one. We always try to be short and to the point but still give as much detail as possible. We appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for this. Did my '65 Ford Falcon door glass!
Excellent...thanks for sharing
awesome!! thanks for sharing :)
Pefect thx great vid !!
Thanks mate
Thanks for the video - it’s helped me visualise how things all go together in general terms.
I have a 1988 Hilux Surf and Toyota supplies rubber inserts that go between the glass and the channel.
I just ordered the rubbers and they have arrived, but for the life of me I can’t work out what holds it all together.
Any tips?
It's certainly a lot newer than we generally deal with, however usually for that era it's simply a friction fit. The rubber sits on the glass and the runner will push on and just need to be a tight fit. The older vehicles, had the setting tape tack-off which helped as well.
It's generally around this era that some of the companies started to use urethane to bond the runners or small brackets to the glass. So there is a chance that's what they used. As I said though, certainly a bit newer than we generally deal with so I can't say for sure.
@@glass4classics427 Thanks heaps for the reply. I’ll clean my channels up and try one of the rubbers and see what happens 👍
Would I use the same procedure for a model a door window.
Sure would. The only thing that can change is the thickness of the setting tape. It will depend on what thickness glass you use and whether you have original or reproduction metal run channels on the bottom. I find the repro run channels are pretty average and need to be squeezed together (they V open instead of having parallel sides) and are normally too long and need cutting down in length. The glass thickness will vary depending on whether you're using laminated glass, toughened glass (every manfuacturer has a preference or perhaps will supply what they have handy, whether that's best for you or not) etc. There are a few different thickness setting tapes available.
So is lamp oil which is a purified kerosene, what you’re using? We have kerosene available at the pump in bulk but I also have plenty of lamp oil and just hate to go buy if I can just use what I have. Thanks
Lamp oil will be more than suitable as it's still in the same "family" as kerosene. :) No need to go out and buy anything else.
Just put new glass in my Duece Coupe. Thanks for the instructions. Glass hammered in pretty easy but I think it's pretty well set and I will check it when it sets. How long should I wait for reinstall. Thanks in advance, Jack
As long as it was a nice snug fit when the runner went on, you're good to put it in immediately. No need to wait at all. Keep up the hard work Jack!
Kerosene is not available in California? It has been outlawed? What else can I use, or is it time to move?
haha how very...progressive of CA! Anybody in AZ you can duck over and visit to borrow some haha? At a pinch I've used just regular glass cleaner when I've run out of Kero. It's more just a case of making sure it's lubricated with something that won't leave a film on it later and cause it to slip back off. The glass cleaner just evaporates over time. Just make sure it's snug when you're putting it on. You still need resistance to hold it in place.
You can buy kerosene at most fuel stations. its around $5 gal here in IL
Great video, what is a substitute for kerosene in the USA. Thanks
G'day mate,
Kerosene is the only thing that really works. It's readily available at all hardware stores. I've used some windex at a pinch when we've not had anything else left (I use that for windscreen frames and rear quarter frames where the glass is completely encapsulated and can't slip out, as it gives me longer working time than kero).
Do NOT use Turps or WD40 etc. They leave a residue and risk the runner pulling off. Metho is high alcohol content and if anything will dry out the setting tape too quick. So try to track down a bit of kerosene, it's usually only a couple of dollars for a small container.
How thick of setting tape do I need for a 53 mercury monterey?
Sorry for the delayed response. We generally find that the 5/64 works for the runners on most of these early Ford/Mercs. The vents I often need to use the 1/16 but it will depend on what glass you're using too. We use 6mm toughened glass, laminated will change that as it's fractionally different.
Why not urethane ??
Time consuming, due to having to wait for it to dry. Messy if you're not careful (and sometimes even if you are). A pain in the ass to get off if you've screwed up and put it in the wrong spot on the glass, it's dried crooked, or put the wrong channel on the glass...trust me, we get calls weekly from people all over the place that have done that then either broken the window trying to get the runner back off or scratched it.
It's just a case of using the right product for the job. It's a couple of minutes to do it properly, or hours waiting for urethane to dry even if it all does go perfectly.