This is possible, but quite challenging on the 2.8l V6 30v. My timing belt only had 20k miles since the last change (still very stiff) so it was necessary to slide the belt out about 1/2" on the passenger side cam pulley and a 1/4" on the center small pulley - in order to get the housing back in. I went with an aluminum housing (URO Parts 078121121J) and these are far superior. The original plastic housing (217k miles) was visibly warped at the thermostat gasket boss. I measured the aluminum one against the original one and almost all the dimensions that matter where within .010. You definitely need to loosen the 3 -4 bolts holding the passenger side inner timing cover, one is hidden behind the bottom of the timing gear, so you may need to rotate the engine by hand at the crank nose to get access through one of the openings in the belt gear). You must move the secondary air bracket (attached at the alternator) back out of the way. I also removed the top pulley (water pump), you do not need a special tool - the center hole take a 9mm hex and you just use two ratchets. I put some 6" long bolts in for the service position support, and crammed in some small 3" wood spacers at the attachment points (from the inside) since the hoses and wires want to keep pulling it back into position. You definitely need as much space as possible to get leverage in fishing the housing back in, as well as getting the secondary air bracket reattached. It is best if you have a light and look directly down to see the top of thermostat protruding as you are muscling the housing back in against the belt (to clear the thermostat). You don't want the wipe out the thermostat or the beveled edge on the housing that seals against the thermostat o-ring by pounding on it - otherwise it will be prone to leak. This was the hardest part, fighting the belt and getting a good angle for leverage. I have done the complete timing belt/water pump and related parts (in a kit) a few years ago, and it is quite involved. This was a pain, but definitely quicker than having to remove the belt and all the related components. Gotta use ramps to get at stuff from the bottom.
What did he say might need to be bent out of the way? I'm at the point where I'm trying to slide the thermostat housing down but it doesn't seem to go down what am I missing?
Good, solid info. Wish you would have shown the bumper cover being removed from a wide view.
This is possible, but quite challenging on the 2.8l V6 30v. My timing belt only had 20k miles since the last change (still very stiff) so it was necessary to slide the belt out about 1/2" on the passenger side cam pulley and a 1/4" on the center small pulley - in order to get the housing back in. I went with an aluminum housing (URO Parts 078121121J) and these are far superior. The original plastic housing (217k miles) was visibly warped at the thermostat gasket boss. I measured the aluminum one against the original one and almost all the dimensions that matter where within .010. You definitely need to loosen the 3 -4 bolts holding the passenger side inner timing cover, one is hidden behind the bottom of the timing gear, so you may need to rotate the engine by hand at the crank nose to get access through one of the openings in the belt gear). You must move the secondary air bracket (attached at the alternator) back out of the way. I also removed the top pulley (water pump), you do not need a special tool - the center hole take a 9mm hex and you just use two ratchets. I put some 6" long bolts in for the service position support, and crammed in some small 3" wood spacers at the attachment points (from the inside) since the hoses and wires want to keep pulling it back into position. You definitely need as much space as possible to get leverage in fishing the housing back in, as well as getting the secondary air bracket reattached. It is best if you have a light and look directly down to see the top of thermostat protruding as you are muscling the housing back in against the belt (to clear the thermostat). You don't want the wipe out the thermostat or the beveled edge on the housing that seals against the thermostat o-ring by pounding on it - otherwise it will be prone to leak. This was the hardest part, fighting the belt and getting a good angle for leverage. I have done the complete timing belt/water pump and related parts (in a kit) a few years ago, and it is quite involved. This was a pain, but definitely quicker than having to remove the belt and all the related components. Gotta use ramps to get at stuff from the bottom.
What did he say might need to be bent out of the way? I'm at the point where I'm trying to slide the thermostat housing down but it doesn't seem to go down what am I missing?
How was the timing after replacing everything?
Who came up with a design like that anyway? Going away are the days of fixing your cars yourself!
Volkswagen made this super compact to fit the V6 engine in the space of an I4. But I agree, it's a bit of a pain!