Made my first kit in 1965 block colours and even then looked lifeless and static. Moving on to 2023 and regressing back to childhood apart from primer and base coat I can’t airbrush to save my life and then discovered these oil brush techniques videos of yours and on my 1st attempt can make it look sort of real you may of saved my life!!! Thank you very much for taking the time to do them.
I remember a year or so ago when I saw some of your earlier videos, and I have to say you have progressed so far, and have really become a professional at the art of scale modelling. Your tutorials are really helpful, and I have been testing oil paint fading since you did it on your Stug.III. As always a great video! Keep up the good work! Thanks
Excellent result, I'm a modeler from way back on and off most of my life. It's been a while since I built anything 20 years or so but I've been checking out some videos and I really like what you've done here. Guess I'm heading to Huntsville tomorrow to pick up a German tank model of some sort. I still have most of my equipment and tools so I'll have a head start on what ever project I pick up. Thanks for the very informative video. I'm looking forward to trying some of your techniques.
Thank you! I haven't even been on this planet 20 years lol! I'm wishing you good luck on your revamp of the hobby, and hope you find my videos somewhat helpful :)
Very nicely done. Demonstration and picture quality is your best, so far. As an experienced contest modeller , I must say you explained this technique very well. ( I won an "OOB" award in '92 NATS....1/35 Dingo) Thanks. .
Great oil colour weathering on the PanzerIII. I got some Wilders oil paints,I'm yet to try them. Your tutorial on the use of Wilders oil paints has given me a desire to use them. PM36 thanks.
That video is world class. Seriously.....that was amazing. Nice close ups of what was going on, good narration and good music. Loved it. And that pziii is kick ass too.
Very very useful tut, certainly I will be using these paints because they are providing excellent control over painting process. Thx alot Evan . Take care buddy.
Great post shading technique Evan... I agree you have much more control doing it by hairy brush after the airbrushing. Do like some of your tricks and will steal them for my next build.
Dear Panzer36, Thanks for sharing the excellent modeling tips. In the video, you use wilder oil of Blue Patina color(LS-37). In my country, this oil product is unavailable. For [winsor & newton] or [van Gogh] oild paint, what color is most like the wilder LS-37? Thanks
Nevermind! Haha you answered my question about the Wilder oils over 3 years ago 😂 the don't seem to be this pre-thinned in your more recent video. Guessing they kind of "normalize" after a while?
+Braille Scale Yeah they do, though back during this video here I didn't really mix them up in the tube before using them which I should have, looking back on it. You can massage the closed tubes to squish the paint and mix it up a little.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the tip! That makes sense. Because it's almost like all the linseed oil separated in the tube. Maybe just the difference between a ~$5 tube of paint vs an artist oil ~$15+ tube. No worries, I'm not hanging anything in a gallery so I'm sure I can figure it out 😂 thanks again!! 😁
I would say so. I used acrylics as the camouflage, but oil thinners do have a habit of thinning enamels too, so if that's your base paint then I would say you should seal it.
Great channel bud. Learning lots from your videos. I’m new to modelling so a bit of a noob so apologies for this question but into the stage where I want to do some filters and a pin wash on my tank with oils. Do thin them does it have to be odourless thinner for enamel finishes type as tried using tamiya x20a and wouldn’t mix, just went gloopy. Cheers bud
No worries about the question. X-20A thinner is acrylic thinner ("A" for acrylic). You need enamel thinner to work with oils. Lighter fluid works, or you can use Tamiya X-20 (no "A") which is Tamiya's enamel thinner. Yes their naming is confusing :)
Panzermeister36 thanks for getting back to me bud. Really appreciate that. I did think that but wasn’t sure, which enamel thinner do you recommend ? Is x20 fine?
No I do not. I'm pretty bad at airbrushing. I did show a little bit of it in my latest video though; just masking and spraying the markings and then spraying the whitewash camouflage.
It's difficult to find WILDER or the other brand you use in the video. Would, for example, Grumbacher be equivalent?Does "weather paints", come with a lighter viscosity than the oils you use.? Thanks Glenn.
Hello Glenm. Yes the Wilder oils are slightly more viscous than standard oil paints, but you can also use artist's oils as well. Just make sure you leave blobs of the artist's oil paint you will be using out on a piece of cardboard for a few hours before you use them, since the cardboard will help soak out some of the linseed oil and the paint will get more viscous then. Y favourite brand of artist's oil paint for modelling is Windsor and Newton.
Great video! Awesome! Just a basic question, do you work in a matt surface or glossy surface to apply oils ?I also noticed you used decals! In case of matt surface, I suppose you applied a gloss coat + decals + gloss coat again and finally, matt varnish .... Am I right. Sorry for any disturbance, but I am returning to the hobby.... all the best, Fernando
Thank you Fernando! Its no problem at all, you can always ask me questions :) I work on a matte surface always when weathering. I would recommend a gloss coat, then decals, then matte as you listed there, but I actually applied these decals on the matte surface too...they didn't have really any clear material around the edges so silvering wouldn't be an issue, and they're made by cartograf so they stick really well around all those bumps and edges on the turret sides.
I would use similar colours to what I used here, but maybe a little darker then so like a more standard blue colour, a slightly darker grey than your base panzer grey, and a slightly lighter grey. If you're doing a dot filter then some white dots too. You could also use black if you want the dark shadow effects I did in this one.
You know my biggest problem with paints is not knowing what to use where. I have to rely on tutorials like this to basically tell me what colors work best together. To teach us "how to fish" rather than "giving us the fish", are there some basic tutorials/books/articles for scale modeling that goes over how to choose paint types and color shades that you recommend?
I really enjoyed Michael Rinaldi's TankART books...very useful for painting and weathering tips. He covers his mixes for paints pretty well, but as for a book about mixing paint colours and choosing oil paint, I don't know of any. I can tell you what I use though: About 50/50 mix of XF-2 and XF-69 for Panzer grey, then a blue enamel filter product XF-21 for German camouflage green 50/50 mix of XF-72 and XF-7 for German red-brown camouflage colour, or just XF-72 for a brown colour like on this tank XF-65 for Russian green tanks 50/25/25 mix of XF-60/XF-2/XF-4 for german yellow, though I sometimes mix that up a little for different tones since it got paler later in the war, so more XF-2 flat white And then for the oil paints well I just choose a colour similar to the base, and then a lighter one and then a darker one. Add in a dark brown, a black, and a white and that's all you need for panel fading and some easy pinwashes and grime effects. Dunno if this answers your question though, but feel free to ask me more :)
Great video as always! Let me ask you one thing about how you developed your skills here: Back when you started, did you go for full effect right from the start and the end result got better and better or did you not even bother to try and get shading and weathering done before you got like the basics of building and basic painting down?
I've always been interested in the weathering aspect the most, but when I first started I was mainly focusing on building and painting since I didn't have any weathering products. Then I experimented from there. If you're interested in starting weathering stuff, I recommend you get out an older kit you've built and just start weathering it and seeing how it goes. I did get better as I went along through experience but to begin I wasn't too big on these advanced techniques I like now.
you make some great videos - from the results, it's obvious you know what you are d oing, but I wish you could make a video about weathering yellow vehicles sometime? It's not even a matter of just changing the colors of the oils either, it's a whole different approach, and not easy to do so that it looks right.
Thanks for the reply, you might be interested to know i am practicing for my 1/16 Hooben RC T55, I plan to paint it yellow ochre with light green khaki stripes in a Syrian Yom kippur war pattern - I want to weather for desert terrain but not too much! I have been at this hobby since the 1970's and still am nowhere near as good as you a re.
Thank you Robert. I did a modern Syrian tank a few years back and I did a video on it, though it is green. It's called "heavy weathering effects on a model tank" or something like that. Anyways, I do some sandy effects in that video that might help you. I also recommend you go check out Sergio Solo's video where he did a Syrian T-55 in a similar camouflage to what you mentioned. He does some really great work :)
Thanks Shawn. Closest store where I can buy them is in Toronto (4 hours away from where I live in Canada) but that's also the closest store where I buy AK Interactive, Mig AMMO, and MiG Productions products too. So the distance isn't a downside. I usually order from them, or buy a bunch of stuff when I head down there in February every year for the International Auto Show (which is 1/1 scale cars lol). The store is Hornet Hobbies.
If you have a problem with artist oils not drying fast enough, use a different thinner. This is the exact purpose of naphtha - when you want to use an oil/enamel paint, but you need a faster drying time.
I see a lot of people just dip their brush straight into the bottle of thinner instead of pouring a bit out into another container. Wouldn’t that make the whole bottle dirty over time?
@@Panzermeister36 I'll stick with my Winton for awhile then. Thank you for the great videos. I am a huge fan now and will probably throw out all of my Vallejo washes...
You make it look so damned easy! If I could produce a paint job like this I would be a happy man! :-) Just to re-iterate what you suggested below. Gloss coat the base paint job, decal and then seal with gloss coat. Then matt coat to start this process? Thanks for this very useful vid, as most of my vehicles are Panzer Grey.
I actually never gloss. I just paint it, apply decals, then start the Lil process over top of the matte surface of the paints. You can do gloss coats and then a matte varnish if you'd like to though, since that should work out just the same.
Just go to your local art store and see what Windsor & Newton makes that are similar colours. They'll be more expensive than Wilder's though, oils aren't cheap.
The thinner is basically lighter fluid, so just use that. As for a varnish, I don't always do it but you can do one first. I'd use satin since I find gloss is too smooth to be able to weather.
Made my first kit in 1965 block colours and even then looked lifeless and static. Moving on to 2023 and regressing back to childhood apart from primer and base coat I can’t airbrush to save my life and then discovered these oil brush techniques videos of yours and on my 1st attempt can make it look sort of real you may of saved my life!!! Thank you very much for taking the time to do them.
I remember a year or so ago when I saw some of your earlier videos, and I have to say you have progressed so far, and have really become a professional at the art of scale modelling. Your tutorials are really helpful, and I have been testing oil paint fading since you did it on your Stug.III.
As always a great video!
Keep up the good work!
Thanks
Excellent result, I'm a modeler from way back on and off most of my life. It's been a while since I built anything 20 years or so but I've been checking out some videos and I really like what you've done here. Guess I'm heading to Huntsville tomorrow to pick up a German tank model of some sort. I still have most of my equipment and tools so I'll have a head start on what ever project I pick up. Thanks for the very informative video. I'm looking forward to trying some of your techniques.
Thank you! I haven't even been on this planet 20 years lol! I'm wishing you good luck on your revamp of the hobby, and hope you find my videos somewhat helpful :)
Awesome Ev. The cut back to the thinner bottle made me very proud of you as a video creator. That is a polished tutorial sir.
Thanks Adam :D Just always trying to be more professional with my work!
It's fantastic. I sent a link to Wilder.
Awesome! Thank you
Very nicely done. Demonstration and picture quality is your best, so far. As an experienced contest modeller , I must say you explained this technique very well. ( I won an "OOB" award in '92 NATS....1/35 Dingo) Thanks. .
Great examples, thank you. If you skip back from the end to around 4m10s, you can really see the difference the oils have made.
Great oil colour weathering on the PanzerIII. I got some Wilders oil paints,I'm yet to try them. Your tutorial on the use of Wilders oil paints has given me a desire to use them. PM36 thanks.
That video is world class. Seriously.....that was amazing. Nice close ups of what was going on, good narration and good music. Loved it. And that pziii is kick ass too.
Thank you Stevie :D I'm glad you like it
Very very useful tut, certainly I will be using these paints because they are providing excellent control over painting process. Thx alot Evan . Take care buddy.
Beautiful stuff man, I wanted to do some oil highlights and found this so helpful.
Great post shading technique Evan... I agree you have much more control doing it by hairy brush after the airbrushing. Do like some of your tricks and will steal them for my next build.
Thank you Harry! Yes by all means steal these ideas; that's why I put them out there in these videos :D
Really brings the tank to life. Great work again!
The modelling skills have always been there. I notice the video editing is starting to kick ass too.
Thank you very much Chris! :)
Really nice, Evan! I'm also more into weathering by brush and oils are a fantastic medium. I like the result you achieved very much! :)
Thanks Jens! I find oils to be super useful in this hobby :)
Panzermeister36 Absolutely! I do all skin areas in oils. Takes ages but looks more like real skin in my opinion. :)
Non-Prolific 1/35th Scale Model Builder It's been forever since I've done a figure....that was before I knew of oils!
Panzermeister36 :)
you've came a long way from the dimly lit go pro videos. it's good to see you improving in both videos skills and modelling skills
Thank you for the awesome comment! :)
Super work Evan! You know I'm a fan of color modulation, but like this way stay awesome too :)
Thanks Nuno! I like the modulation effects too, and I'm also excited to finally do some more airbrushing today....it's been a while!
Great tutorial Evan!
excellent video. huge thumbs up Evan
Could I do an oil wash with those Testors enamel paints? I hate Testors but it's the only oil based paints I have on me.
Excellent Weathering tutorial video!
Thank you!
Thanks for the tip on the brand...nice work.
Thank you very much, Mark
Great weathering, A Very Cool Video, Thanks.
Thank you Ellis!
Wow this looks fantastic, great job with the oil paints. And a very helpfull turorial to me, thumps up A++
Excellent technique tutorial
Super tutorial, Evan. Thanks for sharing.
These vids are keep it up ! Love every one of em.
Are awesome *
Thank you very much :)
Amazing work !
Holy smokes that looks really nice.
Thank you Basile!
Great job Evan! thanks for the useful tips.
Dear Panzer36,
Thanks for sharing the excellent modeling tips.
In the video, you use wilder oil of Blue Patina color(LS-37). In my country, this oil product is unavailable.
For [winsor & newton] or [van Gogh] oild paint, what color is most like the wilder LS-37?
Thanks
Nice video!
Wow, gotta try out your technique :)
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Darek!
absolutely love this piece!!!
Im very good with airbrush and I wouldn't do it with it,
oil weathering is the Master technique"
Nice Video and great result, looks realy nice!
Looking good 👍
Excellent work looks awesome
Thank you!
Great tutorial Evan It looks fantastic :-)
Hello, great and helpful video again. So can you please refer what number paint brushes you using ? thanks
Sure thing! I will do that next time. I really just use the smallest brushes I can find, as well as a no.4 angular shader.
Looks stunning! I think I have to use that technique too 👍
Nice job mate
Nevermind! Haha you answered my question about the Wilder oils over 3 years ago 😂 the don't seem to be this pre-thinned in your more recent video. Guessing they kind of "normalize" after a while?
+Braille Scale Yeah they do, though back during this video here I didn't really mix them up in the tube before using them which I should have, looking back on it. You can massage the closed tubes to squish the paint and mix it up a little.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the tip! That makes sense. Because it's almost like all the linseed oil separated in the tube. Maybe just the difference between a ~$5 tube of paint vs an artist oil ~$15+ tube. No worries, I'm not hanging anything in a gallery so I'm sure I can figure it out 😂 thanks again!! 😁
Great tutorial Evan It looks fantastic :-) J.
Extremely good tutorial! I presume that if you have used enamels to paint the camouflage you'll need an acrylic varnish over it to protect it?
I would say so. I used acrylics as the camouflage, but oil thinners do have a habit of thinning enamels too, so if that's your base paint then I would say you should seal it.
Looks really good!
Thank you Hendrik!
Nice video . Instead of using the light blue color , can I just use the lighter grey color for highlights ?
Yeah, that should work fine. The highlights are quite subtle so the precise colour doesn't really matter.
@@Panzermeister36 oh ok thanks
Great tutorial.
Nice video! I like it
Thanks! I like your music...I might use it in future videos.
When using regular artists oils, use cardboard as a pallet and it should soak up the thinner leaving the oils flat.
Yep
Great channel bud. Learning lots from your videos. I’m new to modelling so a bit of a noob so apologies for this question but into the stage where I want to do some filters and a pin wash on my tank with oils. Do thin them does it have to be odourless thinner for enamel finishes type as tried using tamiya x20a and wouldn’t mix, just went gloopy. Cheers bud
No worries about the question. X-20A thinner is acrylic thinner ("A" for acrylic). You need enamel thinner to work with oils. Lighter fluid works, or you can use Tamiya X-20 (no "A") which is Tamiya's enamel thinner. Yes their naming is confusing :)
Panzermeister36 thanks for getting back to me bud. Really appreciate that. I did think that but wasn’t sure, which enamel thinner do you recommend ? Is x20 fine?
Panzermeister36 I live in the uk. X20 seems hard to find.
Then try zippo fluid for lighters
Do you have a video of you airbrushing your tank !!
Before you start your weathering
No I do not. I'm pretty bad at airbrushing. I did show a little bit of it in my latest video though; just masking and spraying the markings and then spraying the whitewash camouflage.
It's difficult to find WILDER or the other brand you use in the video. Would, for example, Grumbacher be equivalent?Does "weather paints", come with a lighter viscosity than the oils you use.? Thanks Glenn.
Hello Glenm. Yes the Wilder oils are slightly more viscous than standard oil paints, but you can also use artist's oils as well. Just make sure you leave blobs of the artist's oil paint you will be using out on a piece of cardboard for a few hours before you use them, since the cardboard will help soak out some of the linseed oil and the paint will get more viscous then. Y favourite brand of artist's oil paint for modelling is Windsor and Newton.
That's awesome. Thanks
I did this tutorial in the past and it should be helpful: th-cam.com/video/uV26I1WQ01U/w-d-xo.html
Very nice video great tutorial ;)
Great video! Awesome! Just a basic question, do you work in a matt surface or glossy surface to apply oils ?I also noticed you used decals! In case of matt surface, I suppose you applied a gloss coat + decals + gloss coat again and finally, matt varnish .... Am I right. Sorry for any disturbance, but I am returning to the hobby.... all the best, Fernando
Thank you Fernando! Its no problem at all, you can always ask me questions :) I work on a matte surface always when weathering. I would recommend a gloss coat, then decals, then matte as you listed there, but I actually applied these decals on the matte surface too...they didn't have really any clear material around the edges so silvering wouldn't be an issue, and they're made by cartograf so they stick really well around all those bumps and edges on the turret sides.
Thank you very much! Excellent! All the best,
Fernando
Which oil colors would you recommend for a very dark grey panzer II? Like one used in France or Poland early on in the way. Thanks
I would use similar colours to what I used here, but maybe a little darker then so like a more standard blue colour, a slightly darker grey than your base panzer grey, and a slightly lighter grey. If you're doing a dot filter then some white dots too. You could also use black if you want the dark shadow effects I did in this one.
Thanks so much!
Paynes grey is excellent filter on panzer grey.Also has blueish tint
You know my biggest problem with paints is not knowing what to use where. I have to rely on tutorials like this to basically tell me what colors work best together. To teach us "how to fish" rather than "giving us the fish", are there some basic tutorials/books/articles for scale modeling that goes over how to choose paint types and color shades that you recommend?
I really enjoyed Michael Rinaldi's TankART books...very useful for painting and weathering tips. He covers his mixes for paints pretty well, but as for a book about mixing paint colours and choosing oil paint, I don't know of any. I can tell you what I use though:
About 50/50 mix of XF-2 and XF-69 for Panzer grey, then a blue enamel filter product
XF-21 for German camouflage green
50/50 mix of XF-72 and XF-7 for German red-brown camouflage colour, or just XF-72 for a brown colour like on this tank
XF-65 for Russian green tanks
50/25/25 mix of XF-60/XF-2/XF-4 for german yellow, though I sometimes mix that up a little for different tones since it got paler later in the war, so more XF-2 flat white
And then for the oil paints well I just choose a colour similar to the base, and then a lighter one and then a darker one. Add in a dark brown, a black, and a white and that's all you need for panel fading and some easy pinwashes and grime effects.
Dunno if this answers your question though, but feel free to ask me more :)
Great answer, thank you. I recently purchased TA 4 and am looking forward to the info.
Great work and thanks for sharing! Is it the Miniart Panzer 3 B/C or D?
Thank you Jan! This kit is actually a Panzer III Ausf.E from Dragon.
great tutorial..lookz great do!
Great video as always! Let me ask you one thing about how you developed your skills here: Back when you started, did you go for full effect right from the start and the end result got better and better or did you not even bother to try and get shading and weathering done before you got like the basics of building and basic painting down?
I've always been interested in the weathering aspect the most, but when I first started I was mainly focusing on building and painting since I didn't have any weathering products. Then I experimented from there. If you're interested in starting weathering stuff, I recommend you get out an older kit you've built and just start weathering it and seeing how it goes. I did get better as I went along through experience but to begin I wasn't too big on these advanced techniques I like now.
you make some great videos - from the results, it's obvious you know what you are d oing, but I wish you could make a video about weathering yellow vehicles sometime? It's not even a matter of just changing the colors of the oils either, it's a whole different approach, and not easy to do so that it looks right.
Thank you! I do have some videos on weathering yellow tanks. Check out both of my "Standard Weathering Procedure" videos, especially the second one.
Thanks for the reply, you might be interested to know i am practicing for my 1/16 Hooben RC T55, I plan to paint it yellow ochre with light green khaki stripes in a Syrian Yom kippur war pattern - I want to weather for desert terrain but not too much! I have been at this hobby since the 1970's and still am nowhere near as good as you a re.
Thank you Robert. I did a modern Syrian tank a few years back and I did a video on it, though it is green. It's called "heavy weathering effects on a model tank" or something like that. Anyways, I do some sandy effects in that video that might help you. I also recommend you go check out Sergio Solo's video where he did a Syrian T-55 in a similar camouflage to what you mentioned. He does some really great work :)
Thanks PM36, happy modelling to you!
Great video. Where did you buy the oils from? Thanks
Thanks Shawn. Closest store where I can buy them is in Toronto (4 hours away from where I live in Canada) but that's also the closest store where I buy AK Interactive, Mig AMMO, and MiG Productions products too. So the distance isn't a downside. I usually order from them, or buy a bunch of stuff when I head down there in February every year for the International Auto Show (which is 1/1 scale cars lol). The store is Hornet Hobbies.
If you have a problem with artist oils not drying fast enough, use a different thinner. This is the exact purpose of naphtha - when you want to use an oil/enamel paint, but you need a faster drying time.
thanks for the help. good instruction.
Thank you Eric :)
I see a lot of people just dip their brush straight into the bottle of thinner instead of pouring a bit out into another container. Wouldn’t that make the whole bottle dirty over time?
Yeah, but it's just getting a tiny bit of oil into thinner that is only used for oils so I have not had any issues.
You in the past mentioned you are in Canada. Where do you buy your wilder stuff from?
+Roger Nilson Hornet Hobbies used to be the only distributor in Canada. They recently closed down so Wilder is looking into a new option.
@@Panzermeister36 I'll stick with my Winton for awhile then. Thank you for the great videos. I am a huge fan now and will probably throw out all of my Vallejo washes...
what surface do you apply weathering ? Can you please explain correct order ?
I always work over a matte surface. I find gloss to be too shiny and smooth to weather well.
You make it look so damned easy! If I could produce a paint job like this I would be a happy man! :-)
Just to re-iterate what you suggested below. Gloss coat the base paint job, decal and then seal with gloss coat. Then matt coat to start this process?
Thanks for this very useful vid, as most of my vehicles are Panzer Grey.
I actually never gloss. I just paint it, apply decals, then start the Lil process over top of the matte surface of the paints. You can do gloss coats and then a matte varnish if you'd like to though, since that should work out just the same.
Im not into buying Wilder oils.What artist oils would do to substitute for the blue patina and the light dust?
Just go to your local art store and see what Windsor & Newton makes that are similar colours. They'll be more expensive than Wilder's though, oils aren't cheap.
$7.99 for 37ml tube which is plenty for weathering and shading.Usually I paint in dunkelgelb,but going for grey current build.
Maybe for series 1, but series 2 has much better pigments and colours and those are more like 12 dollars each. Wilder's oils are $5.60.
Looks great)
Do you use any varnish before the oils? And that thinner you're using, is it Enamel, Acrylic or White spirit?
The thinner is basically lighter fluid, so just use that. As for a varnish, I don't always do it but you can do one first. I'd use satin since I find gloss is too smooth to be able to weather.
Panzermeister36 Cool, thanks for the answer.
I dont have any lighter fuel tho, would it work with white spirit?
Yeah that should work, after all the AK thinner is just white spirit.
What do u suggest for IDF sinai grey and IDF green?
is there more weathering i should do after this?
Hi, i just bought some oil paints but they are not matt, does that matter?
It shouldn't be much of a problem
How long must it dry?
Usually 24 hr with Wilder oils. Some other oils may take longer.
Cod you also use olive oil
+Damian Groen I would highly recommend not using that.
Woww