ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- The Craigslist Find and neglected Diamond in the rough 1981 Schwinn Le Tour restoration project finally completed, watch frame prep and paint, component cleaning and polishing, rebuild wheels and complete build.
Video Time Stamps Paint 1:20 / Component overview 13:35 / Derailleurs 17:30 / Shifters 18:29 / Brake Levers 19:39 / Handlebar 28:00 / Bar Tape 30:02 / Wet Sand & Buff Clear Coat 39:00 / Fork Decals 41:20 / Frame decals 43:49 / Start Build Head set & fork 53:05 / Bottom Bracket & Crankset 55:21 / Derailleurs 58:46 / Brakes & Reflectors 1:00:02 / Handlebars 1:03:21 / Shifter Cables 1:04:23 / Brake Cables 1:10:35 / Wheels overview 1:13:25 / Front Wheel 1:14:08 / Rear wheel 1:20:39 / New rear Hoop 1:32:40 / Lace Rear Wheel 1:37:44 / Truing and setting spoke tension 1:45: 02 / Overhaul Rear Hub Bearings 1:48:24 / Mount tubes and tires 1:59:50 / Install chain & Test Drive Train 2:07:00 / Completed Project 2:11:14 / Test Ride 2:14:48 / Restoration Recap 2:17:05
Thanks for watching👍🚲🔧🙋♂️
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
You are so patient! And the love you gives the r bikes and care! You are the best!
Thanks Chris! Good to see you as always, glad you liked it and thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
Wishing you and your family a Happy Holiday Season 🎄🎁🙋♂
Oscar
that bike is almost priceless considering the amount of work you put into it , it is almost too pristine to ride ! fantastic job !
Thanks Frankie! She is stored indoors staying as you see it, definitely not a rider but a time capsule of the early eighties manufacturing 🔧🔧 Thanks for watching 👍👍
I love how much care you put into getting the wheels just right. Excellent job!
Thank you! I'm happy to read your comment, it makes my efforts worthwhile 😏 Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
@@that70sschwinn Always wondered how to respond a wheel, nicely explained
Sorry about Grammar, builders fingers
@@johnperry3105 Nice 😂👍
April 5 2024. Just caught this video. I just want to say "You are the Kindig of bikes." So envious of your talent and patience! My friend you are a ARTIST!!!
Thanks Eric! I'm glad you liked it, I really appreciate your comment and thanks for watching the video! 👍👍🔧🔧
I just picked up this exact bike the other day for $50. It looks like it was hardly ridden. Your project has given me a couple of ideas on upgrades I can do to mine. Awesome video
Nice find! thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
I love your restoration videos so much. Thank you for all you do to present the complete process each time. This one came out spectacular! Bravo. More, please.
Thank you Svea! glad you enjoyed the content. I certainly appreciate your comment and thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
Oscar, so glad to see part 2. Your meticulousness is astonishing. In my next life, I want to come back as one of your bikes. Beautiful job.
Seasons Greeting Rita! good to see you and very happy that you found the content interesting. I wonder what bike you would come back as 🙄🚲 I know you would be welcomed and certainly one of my favorite bikes🔧👍
Thanks for watching Rita! enjoy you holiday season🙋♂🎄🎁
Really happy to see you're not only preserving history but bringing it back to useable functionality. I've always been a bit of a 70s road bike freak because of the beauty and simplicity of thin tube steel frames. Very cool stuff! One tip that I learned from an old British bike mechanic for removing rust and oxidation is never to use abrasives as that also removes the chrome finish. Instead, spray the area with WD40 and then rub gently with aluminum foil. It's a chemical process that removes rust immediately without scratching or removing the chrome plating. Toss the abrasives!
Nice! I agree the geometry of the 70's bikes is unmatched, thanks for the great tip and thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
Your commitment to polishing is next level stuff. I’m going to pause the video and go get sunglasses before you wheel that bike out into the light.
Nice 😎👍 🚲🏡 😂😂🤣🤣 Thanks for watching🔧🔧
The organization and your attention to detail is outstanding!
I certainly appreciate your comment, Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
@@that70sschwinn absolutely! :) btw I always felt your channel is deserving of a much larger number of subscribers. Do you advise your videos?
@@GoodTimeBikes I just upload them and post preview images on my YT community page prior to uploading the video.
Wow! Outstanding! I ran across your video and was just glued to it! I have a classic 1989 Klein Attitude Comp mountain bike in pristine condition. I really love it, and just got back to riding. I have my pop's 1980 Supper Le Tour in black sable, I picked it up Easter Sunday in fact. I was just going to tune it up, because it's pretty rough, but after seeing what you do to them I think I want it fully restored now lol. I am going to ride it though. I used to take it without permission from my pop and got bagged because I brought it back cleaned and polished, he knew I did it! I used to wax my old Schwinn Sting Ray when I was a kid. I was on restriction for while for that one for a while, but then he said you can take it for a ride, but you must ask first! 😁Anyway, I don't have the time or knowledge to do what you do, any interest in restoring it for me? These old Schwinn's were really nice bikes and the quality shines through for sure on your restorations. Thanks for preserving these wonderful bikes! 👊
Very cool childhood memories 👍👦 The Le Tour in Black is a very nice bike, I bet it's in pretty good shape, which means it may be wise to just tune it up and wax the paint, polish the chrome and have the wheels trued and bearings overhauled. I don't consider myself a professional as it's just a hobby I love doing in my spare time. You could get very nice results yourself with just a little elbow grease. For the mechanical work, your local bike shop can get your bike up tp speed for a reasonable price. I would clean it up and get it looking nice before taking it to the shop, that will inspire the mechanic to contribute to your project by making your bike ride like new. Many of my viewers have been inspired to get their old Schwinn out of the basement and bring them back to their original glory.
The feeling once you are done is second to none. I have plenty of how to videos to help you along the way.
Glad you found the content interesting and thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
@@that70sschwinn I absolutely agree! I restored a 1968 Torino GT fastback, and showed it as a classic restoration, then re-did it as a resto-mod. It was in Super Ford Magazine 3 times. I've decided to do a full restoration on the bike myself as you suggest. Pops would appreciate that. The paint is rough and the decals gone. I'm not sure what specific bike tools I'll need, but if I can do a car, I can do a bike, especially with your through videos to help me. I appreciate your work and I'll send pictures when I'm through! Keep posting these awesome restorations!
@@franka3398 1968 Torino GT Sweet! Love muscle cars from 60's & 70's, congrats on the magazine articles, must have been a gem. Sounds like you could expertly restore a bike with most of the tools you already have. The only bike tools you would need are a crank puller, a crank wrench and some cone wrenches for the wheel hubs. To true the rims, you would need a truing stand and a bike stand to properly secure the bike in place while working on it. I would go with ParkTool for best quality tools. If this is the only bike you will be working on, it may cost less to have the bike shop overhaul all the bearings Headset, crankset and wheel hubs, they can also true the rims change the brake cables and shifter cables to adjust the derailleurs properly. For the frame, black will be easy to match, so you can touch it up or respray the entire frame. The company I got all my decals from recently closed shop, that's were I got my Le Tour decal kit, there are some on eBay you can get that are the same factory water transfer decals, I was lucky to find the seat tube 1020 frame decal and superlight decals.
These are long links, you can click on any part of it to go to eBay
Here is the top tube decal (not sure if these are sold as a pair, you can ask seller)
www.ebay.com/itm/204084056421?hash=item2f845b9165:g:4iAAAOSwtnRjE8o4&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8P%2B612JaMbYQxS7utY%2Bez2wVOHbxT9nJcYF13wN7AuuG3MPkWd%2FhhkRQkplUcpXmhXnB%2FIVjKysxbHlBgQEuoFeLr093y9dBnjKY%2BBXvDlChwEB53Ik5y2oTl9zS1xBBUG%2FGteUsMMYMAQrGt8lfLKgkrmU3hVT6y4jO3QbaNmBAz1iTNwYdiwZXGRoqwyAcivXsqaqwem3X4gCM8FqeCRch6o2h8qFRYdZLaaKfkJPheBIRuMxISlWJZHuK9FK26agyMPLJAzUNMI0WZmg4h%2Br3NDdZpae1DcgqeCsWCJgAVlrmjPrks2gxvm84AaibeA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR56WxoTwYQ
Here are the Downtube decals (definitely the pair, this is the seller I buy from the most)
www.ebay.com/itm/312580001448?hash=item48c7384ea8:g:PAIAAMXQ3kRQ8HRB&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8C5n4viZROHbQPUS5rv1zHMTRshkU77H%2BYfr8aex9l0NmwaY9poJh6nuaL7uVsI8wG%2FuPib5SBqmo5g6%2BEpdN19%2F6xGCsjZFuDb8meQICyYm4VykFjg8bzzpRs5MJpOmxKAgtUJ8ckH2zktsKDlJomuzBMz%2FstoxAKd76NuhHZG76A11e%2FFGVpNDTAXp%2F%2F9%2FEwugFt88jNSEFl3XRFz6bUoAmzu%2BR1T7i6k5iKC4KcmYffGpyRybe53ACmKqKq4AvyzamvaIw%2BQESmJMhCH2TrVrxUFtng9yFXxssLS6z1uWOFVtFFpn41zuGoTwgyTXFQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5bluYbwYQ
Here is a complete kit from the same seller, too bad it's in green you can contact him from the listing and ask if he has it in red or he may be able to find from his source.
www.ebay.com/itm/333128963187?hash=item4d90089473:g:ajUAAOSwhRxXKTtx&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MEqRktfheQVtasW%2FO6rF%2BQq%2FmXFzpunB%2BoGHUf0smBZVquVYTqBfugecm7FnfigCqjd%2B5MsDSUiD5o4cIeI%2B2sVaIwEn%2BhbF7z094bzpnj9nZr8cpj7IwOoyGUYXQInUTJRB3A9JKEisPN2jDIe6LDm9QarNtm2XP86d0MTHzV%2BzoIK0UgxLdhM%2Bk1ZnTHn4VpsXNm0srkGIedTiECWi%2B7lxWpOhLlTjo8%2F4huaxvUaB1HQdz64dk2FUxw4q71MFAkX8b2JBtjBJSwZxcAKvCQT1aDO3O0gB3xA%2BZma%2Fn%2BBDhB26IKFF6aB6oAqzzI0Xg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5bluYbwYQ
This is the seat tube Schwinn quality decal same seller, you can ask him if he has it in red.
www.ebay.com/itm/372634498492?hash=item56c2bf35bc:g:564AAOSwfcVUEbk7&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0NokOhir8wCVdZzUV7On09WLi5fhKAwd2UclGace2t4cCE%2FSpa10CvTANYnNTgwUnR%2BHUUJJTFNjDLd6cZF1x%2B6RwBHW4pCleUOzhdp6dkPN2LsdOWjdENqhP5xHI6pUehrQiOLbFMzDI5cdRtY7c3Nx2kQVphVWnni42pMBo%2B8Cl7FFJt1gJt4khrsPvGX5CV6rofbfsTfPG5HMteBGJyqpw6EcWHggWtUKKQUldob5hsqgQniB4QmQPxf%2Fm4jLZGpc%2Ffr9gI%2Fk4kLkCjwZDmo%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5iniIfwYQ
These are the details that will make your restoration look authentic, not everyone has the same passion as I do to get it just right so decals are optional based on your project scope and how you envision the bike once completed. later this year, I will be restoring my all Chrome 1976 Super Le Tour II, I already found all the decals and will get started once I finish my 1969 Orange Krate project. Feel free to send pics to my channel email at that70sschwinn@gmail.com
Good luck and enjoy your restoration. Your pops will definitely appreciate the effort. The bike on this video was purchased form a guy that inherited the bike from his dad, he beat it up, abandoned it and then listed it on craigslist for $100 bucks, he was very happy to see his dad's bike once completed and shared the video with his dad to show him his old bike on TH-cam. That feedback is what makes my hard work worthwhile 😏🚲
I find it's always a very scary time adding the decals...
Top notch job👍
I agree, it can be stressful getting them just right, I tend to get distracted when I shoot video and apply decals. Velocals is the company I got all my decals from, they recently closed their online store and it will be hard to find all the specialty decals they offered.
Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
that was worth watching just for the bar tape wrap job! ❤️...born and raised n NZ with Raleigh bikes , I honestly don't think i've ever even seen a Schwinn. Now living in the Philippines I have an 85 Trek 560 and after this video I will have to keep an eye open for one 👍
Cool! The Schwinn brand in America was similar to the Raleigh brand in England throughout its long manufacturing history. In the early 70's they began to use Japanese manufacturers to keep up with the demand and competition during the bike boom of the early 70's. Schwinn offered a variety of categories and models to fit every price range. The Chicago based factory manufactured steel frames and chromoly frames as well as the Reynolds 531 frames seen on the top of the Schwinn line Paramount. Check out the video below where I show 6 examples of the lightweight category, from the entry level Varsity to the high end Paramount Thanks for watching👍🔧
th-cam.com/video/YUS_GQeVlV8/w-d-xo.html
@@that70sschwinn already watched. I notice the green super sport had a battery (?) headlight and wondered if that was also a Schwinn item
@@breathestrongcycling3672 The original owner added an older Hiller generator light kit, which was offered on Schwinn bikes in the 60s. When I got the bike I started to remove the kit and stopped at the head light but I have reinstalled the rear light and generator. On the 1972 Schwinn catalog they offered the accessory as an option.
These kits were branded as Schwinn. Thanks for checking out the content 👍👍
Deluxe generator set complete with headlight, tail light, and generator.
A must for night riding $8.75
Take a look at the 1972 Schwinn Catalog, they list all the categories for that year.
bikehistory.org/catalogs/1972.html
This came out amazing!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
The restoration turned out perfect! looks like a new bike great workmanship and attention to detail, keep them coming, learning a lot here 👌
Thanks Mark! glad you liked the content and thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
With the winter we had this year I'd be happy to ride in the rain, much better than snow. This old bones are screaming arthritis.
I hear you 🤣🤣😂😂
Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
I found this video very interesting and loaded with ideas that will be helpful when I restore my bike, you have certainly inspired me to move forward with my project I have been putting off for a couple of years. My 1974 Le Tour is in pretty decent shape but I want to make it my main rider.
Thanks! glad you found the content helpful
Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
Your videos are as carefully done as the bikes- excellent.
One thing though- the rear cogs on the original gold freewheel, aren't broken; the short teeth help guide the chain when moving from cog to cog. Some freewheels have that feature, some don't.
Very interesting 🙄 I went back a took a closer look at the freewheel, the short teeth appear to be uneven and not machined as the long ones. I have over 50 Schwinn bikes including 3 Le Tours and have never seen that feature. Do you have more details or link to some examples? The new one works great and shifts like a champ but if the original was designed as you mentioned, it would be cool to restore it and install on the bike.
Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
@@that70sschwinn you can check for such freewheel features on bike trials forums. These fellas know a lot about freewheels.😉Just create a topic with your question and add some photos. That’ll do.
@@craftyukraine 👍👍🔧🔧
Epic build pal, we never had Schwinn bikes in the UK, my first bike was a BSA next Viking and many others since in me 60 plus years. But fair play to you, great job on a real interesting machine.
Thanks and glad you enjoyed the content, Schwinn had many models to choose from, the 1981 Le Tour was an affordable road bike that ranked below the Schwinn Superior, the 12 speed Schwinn Voyageur 11.8 , 15 speed Super Sport and the 12 speed Schwinn Super Le Tour. In 1981 Schwinn had discontinued producing the Reynolds 531 Schwinn Paramount. I would say the Schwinn Brand was somewhat similar the the Raleigh brand which used some of the same brake levers and calipers from Wineman.
Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
I worked a couple of summers at a Raleigh shop in the mid 1970's and repaired many Schwinns. Didn't care for them very much because they were so heavy, but that also made them quite robust and were well suited to the average teen who never gave a thought to caring for the bike. The parts always fit well, which wasn't always the case with the European imports. They filled a purpose and did it well.
Well said, your observations are right on point, sounds like you worked on the Electro Forged Schwinn steel frame bikes like the Varsity, Continental, Suburban, these were the most popular and mass produced based on cost and durability, they weight 38 to 40 lbs. depending on frame size and if they came with Fenders. Schwinn also manufactured a much lighter line of Chromoly frame road bikes like the Super Sport, Superior, Sports Tourer and the made in Japan World Voyageur, all weighed from 28 to 32 lbs. and made to last as well, The Paramount was like the higher end Raleigh's with the Reynolds 531 frame, Campy group set and other European componentry, weighing at 22 lbs. Like the Raleigh brand, these bikes last a life time and restoring them allows for new generations to enjoy the way they feel and how they were built. Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
The Paramounts were fine bicycles, and I knew a couple of guys in the bike club that owned them. The only problem was that there was about a two year wait to get one because of the size of the list of those that had ordered one.
Transformation doesn't describe the shine on everything, is virtually a new bike.
Thanks Mario! I appreciate your comment👍👍
Good job on the bike
Thanks! I appreciate your comment and thanks foe watching 👍👍🔧🔧
Nice job, I agree the red accents works well with the color. I'm in the process of rust treating my 65 sting ray spring fork.
Thanks! good luck with that '65 Sting Ray project, Nice👍👍🔧🔧
Crankset is awesome
I was happy it cleaned up nice🤩
I have the same Schwinn 1981 LETOUR,same color!!!! Bought in 1992 for 100 dollars in very good shape from bike shop!!! rode it a lot during the 90s and always kept in bedroom!!!! Still do!!! Going to have wheels trued and I'll clean detailed !!!! I don't like the handle bar foam I'll replace with sliver tape!!!!
Nice! very cool bike story, a buddy of mine wrapped the silver tape on his Silver Voyageur and it looks great! the foam bars are certainly comfortable but the Flexon bar tape looks very cool. Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
Mr. Oscar, another outstanding restore with the 81 Schwinn Le Tour!! As I and others have stated, your attention to detail and quality of your work is second to none. I love how you try to restore your bikes as close to their original specs as possible. Congratulations on another spectacular restore, soooooo looking forward to your next project. Happy Holidays to you and your family and best wishes for the New Year from Rancho Cucamonga California. Take care!!
Thanks Alex! glad you liked it, I appreciate your comment and certainly thank you for stopping by👍👍🔧🔧
I also wish you and your family a Happy Holiday Season! Best Wishes 🎄🎁🙋♂
Had a 1983 schwinn sierra mtb. Turned it into a 1x5 friction shift, 2" road tires. Lasted forever...
Nice👍👍🔧🔧
Aqui é o Anderson do Brasil,um espetáculo de bike, parabéns pelo seu trabalho.
Thank you!👍👍🔧🔧
This Le Tour looks just like mine, only mine is a ladies' frame. Mine is the same color with same decals. I don't know exactly how to find out the model year of bikes (I know it's fairly straightforward on Schwinns, if I'm not mistaken) but your Le Tour here is so identical to mine, mine might also be an '81. It's got that warning about braking distance with steel wheels. Anyway, I will have to go find the Part 1 vid. Great job!
Nice! they looked similar in 1980, 81 and 82, your serial number is on the non drive rear dropout. My serial number tells me is a 1981.
The first 2 characters are 1E the 1 stands for 1981 the E stands for May, that's the frame manufacture date, there is also a series of numbers on your head badge that identifies the final production date.
Nicely done. I have always like this bike/color, found one close but it got away. Please elaborate more on obtaining decals. Thanks.
Thanks! Unfortunately, my source for decals closed shop at the beginning of 2023, Velocals had just about any decal kit imaginable, including model specific frame badging as well as fork and rear stay pint stripe decals.
No I will have to get my decals for various seller on eBay, they usually offer the basic Schwinn decals that include the downtube water transfer decals, top of fork decals and seat tube Schwinn quality decal. You can type key words on the eBay search bard and get a few results. Here is an example of a search I did by entering Schwinn decals.
Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=schwinn+decals&_sacat=0
Can you do a video on how you polish the crank and pedals, I would love to see that.
Here is one I did that shows the crank being polished around the 10 minute time stamp
th-cam.com/video/eYL1ZHwk6ZE/w-d-xo.html
This on shows How I restored the pedals on this bike on part 1
th-cam.com/video/onzUetwlif0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
The drops of your handlebars are supposed to be level with your top tube. I would do that to all of you bikes. The Le Tour restoration is phenomenal btw. Good Show mate! Sincerely, Jay @ B & C Bicycle Restorations
Although that is the way I align them as well many bikes have them at a slope which raises the lever position to a less aggressive rider position which more comfortable and safe for less experienced riders.
@@jaycahow4667 rookie.
*Oh wow!🤩 This bike reminds me the Silver Surfer somehow!🏄*
Love it! thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
Another Excellent Video! Question: If one cannot afford a Paramount which is the next best Schwinn Model?
There is a few nice options, The Panasonic Plant Schwinn approved 1972 World Voyageur , the 1977 or 1978 Volare, hard to find, came with the same Reynolds 531 frame. The made in Chicago 1971 Sports Tourer chromoly frame with some very nice components and Brooks Saddle.
Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
You are using real handlebar tape. That's what I am used to using 😃
Yes, that's the only tape I use unless the original tape calls for the cloth bar tape 👍👍
I need some help in identifying dad's bike. I remember in my head that it was a Super Le Tour II. I looked up the serial number and I came back with a build date of August 6 1980 (serial Number: 2190). But then I ran across this: Schwinn built Le Tours in Chicago for 1979 and 1980. Specific models included the 1979 Le Tour IV and Super Le Tour II, which were renamed as just the Le Tour and Super Le Tour for 1980. They had 18ga 1020 carbon steel lugged frames built in Chicago using a Schwinn "Torch-brazed" process. Were they still using the Super Le Tour II name in 1980? Did I decode the serial number incorrectly? Thanks
The serial number is found on the rear dropout and should be letters and numbers. My 1981 Le Tour serial number is E101279 May of 1981 E= May 1=1981 the rest of the numbers are production numbers.
Bicycles from Japan made in the 70’s have a production month letter in either the first or second position and a production year number in the other (first or second) position. Examples J677123 = September, 1976, or with the number in front of the letter 6J77123 = September, 1976.
the link below will detail the history of the Le Tour
bikehistory.org/bikes/letour/
Where did you find your decals? I’m in need 2 of the le tour and 2 of the schwinn decals for my restoration.
You can find both toptube and downtube water transfer decals on this listing from eBay
Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧 www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1312&_nkw=schwinn+le+tour+dcals&_sacat=0
is it possible to get a list of tools you need for this project
There are many tools required that I collected over time and purchased as I needed them, in some cases the tools are more expensive than having your bike serviced at your local bike shop. Bike stands are essential and they go from $150 and up, a nice Park Tool stand like mine is $375
If you are only going to work on one bike, investing in tool may not be worth it based on how much you will use them. I have over 50 bikes and I use my tools on a regulars basis. Here is a link that will provide some very cool list ideas for different task you want to accomplish as you work on your project (s) Hope it helps.
www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-tools.html
@@that70sschwinn thank you so much I appreciate it
I have the same exact bike I just picked up $50 it needs some work but it’s my first vintage and my bike knowledge is low but I’m motivated to finish it.
@@elijahcuevas3841 Nice find! $50 is a good price The crankset alone is worth more than that, this bike was in pretty rough shape, if you get a chance checkout part 1 th-cam.com/video/onzUetwlif0/w-d-xo.html
I've been wondering if you could put the water bottle nuts or whatever they are called before painting it. One thing that keeps me from riding is not being able to put a water bottle on it.
Yes, I suppose you could find a water bottle kit with mounts. I personally use a rubberized frame mount that tightens with 2 Velcro straps. I can use it on all my bikes when I ride them. 👍👍
I am no expert but I saw another channel where the guy uses a tool to re thread the bottom bracket.
Yes, I want to get that tool 😏👍🔧
Those are not broken teeth on the freewheel cogs. Shimano placed those short teeth on the cogs along with the twist tooth shapes (calling it "Uniglide") to improve shifting quality; predecessor to the "Hyperglide" contouring which also resquired syncronized cog positons and was developed first for mountain bikes with larger steps between the cogs. Recall that the 2 largest cogs on the World Voyageur freewheels had alternating teeth absences to facilitate shiting to those cogs which had greater steps from the next smaller cogs.
Thanks for the details, another viewer mentioned the same thing so I did some research and sure enough that is the case, was this specific to Shimano freewheels of the early 80's? I was sure the teeth were damaged based on the condition of the bike when purchased. There was no rhyme or reason for the random short teeth seen on every sprocket. I even considered cleaning it up and keeping it, but thought the gears would not engage properly with the chain but it turns out it was designed that way. I will overhaul the bearings and restore it and see how she works.
Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
For some reason, not all the freewheels and cassettes had those short teeth, so maybe it was a later development.
@@geoffreycrawley3985 Got it...thanks 🔧🔧
Great job. But I think the shift levers should be on the down tube. I don't like them on the stem.
Thanks! yes I prefer the shifters on the downtube because they just look cooler, but as the industry complied with the Consumer Safety Commission, they moved the shifters to the stem and added reflectors and safety brake levers to meet manufacturing requirements. Besides that, I'm a stickler for factory exact restorations and never modify or modernize any vintage period correct part decal or color, they look just as you would have seen it at the Schwinn dealer sales floor.
Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
@@that70sschwinnI understand your point. You have done a fabulous job. Regards.
@@josejn2007 Thank you! I appreciate your comment💪💪🔥🔥
New subscriber here, I have a couple of questions. What bearings do you use and what grade are they? Cost? Ive been using bc precision bearings for a while now however im thinking of alternatives. Thanks
Thanks for subbing! These were the last ones I got on Amazon for $4.75
BC Precision Campagnolo Shimano Front Hubs 3/16"
Grade 25 balls
Package includes 100 precision balls
Chromium steel
How to clean rusty chrome?
I use Evaporust for all chrome and steel surface rust, check out the link below for more product details.
Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧 th-cam.com/video/VjvKZjNL1a8/w-d-xo.html
I have a Continetal and a SS I’d like to do, the biggest issue is the rusty chrome, I live in humid Florida so it get pretty bad. Evaporust seems like the best way short of new chrome.
it needs an old school seat. that really triggers my OCD bro
LOL🤣 I have over 50 vintage bikes with period correct saddles, the original saddle had butt pads and looked like granny panties, so I went with the thong on this beauty 🤣😂🔧🔧 Check out part 1 to see how the bike was found. th-cam.com/video/onzUetwlif0/w-d-xo.html
Just found and sub’d to the channel. I have a Schwinn LeTour. How do I find out what year it is?
Nice! what color is it?
Bicycles from Japan made in the 70’s and 80's have a production month letter in either the first or second position and a production year number in the other (first or second) position. Examples J677123 = September, 1976, 6J77123 = September, 1976. The bike in this video serial number is 1E01279. The 1= 1981 the E=May. The serial number should be on the rear dropout non drive side, take a look and let me know.
Thank for subbing and watching 👍👍🔧🔧
White. J67082. Schwinn decal on seat post with “broken line” lettering (don’t know what it’s called)?
@@richardtaylor9798 Based on the color and seat post Schwinn decal you described, your Le Tour is a June of 1986, take a look at the Le Tour history link and scroll to 1986
bikehistory.org/bikes/letour/
Frame sizes available, Men's 19", 21", 23" 25" and 27". Clear coated frost white or scarlet. Nice bike 👍👍
Thanks for the info on my bike. The best part of it is that a neighbor bought a newer bike and gave me this one!
@@richardtaylor9798 That makes it the best find ever! by the way, your bike is a September 1986 J= September, somehow I translated the 6 as June while typing my response.🙄
The 1986 Le Tour came with the cool downtube shifters and very nice components as highlighted in the catalog marketing description below.👍👍
Dependability and sophistication are trademarks of the LeTour. European styling and componentry blend for a better-than-ever value.
Stonglight alloy crankset is just that, strong and light, with a high polish for boasting.
Huret Rical derailleur system knows no rival when it comes to shifting ease and accuracy.
Dia-Compe alloy side pull brakes with anatomically designed brake levers for comfortable control in any situation.
Anatomically sized handlebar, stem and micro adjusting seat post assure a perfect fit.
Frame sizes available, Men's 19", 21", 23" 25" and 27". Clear coated frost white or scarlet.
Amazing!
Thanks 😊 I appreciate your comment 👍
Tengo una Bicicleta marca Motobecane es Francesa del año 82 la voy a restaurar.😅
1:34:30 "I did save a couple hundred dollars by not getting that extra bike, but I kinda wanted it." Man, relatable. 🤣
Cool, yes, I was disappointed when the seller backed out of the eBay sale. I believe he thought he was going to get several bidders and when I was the only bidder at $100 he refunded my payment. 🤔😥
Great to have you back bro, long time ago
Yep, it's been a while since part 1 🙄 glad she finally got done😏 Thanks for stopping by 👍👍🔧🔧
Video Time Stamps Paint 1:20 / Component overview 13:35 / Derailleurs 17:30 / Shifters 18:29 / Brake Levers 19:39 / Handlebar 28:00 / Bar Tape 30:02 / Wet Sand & Buff Clear Coat 39:00 / Fork Decals 41:20 / Frame decals 43:49 / Start Build Head set & fork 53:05 / Bottom Bracket & Crankset 55:21 / Derailleurs 58:46 / Brakes & Reflectors 1:00:02 / Handlebars 1:03:21 / Shifter Cables 1:04:23 / Brake Cables 1:10:35 / Wheels overview 1:13:25 / Front Wheel 1:14:08 / Rear wheel 1:20:39 / New rear Hoop 1:32:40 / Lace Rear Wheel 1:37:44 / Truing and setting spoke tension 1:45: 02 / Overhaul Rear Hub Bearings 1:48:24 / Mount tubes and tires 1:59:50 / Install chain & Test Drive Train 2:07:00 / Completed Project 2:11:14 / Test Ride 2:14:48 / Restoration Recap 2:17:05 Thanks for Watching 👍👍🔧🔧
oh man , i find your content amazing and a lot to learn , but if you can , please put this comment in your video description , you will see great things happen in your video player. that is youtube will rely on the timeline to segment that video. Please try and test more interesting things. your video is great, keep it up
can these bikes be equipped with modern 12 speed groupsets
@@chadjackson4786 Yes, you may have to cold-set the rear stays to accommodate the wider freewheel.
When will you be renovating the Volare that you mentioned you had boxed?
I have around 25 bikes in boxes, I need to start with the boxes at the front of the line, I hope it's not buried way back as I do want to get it out soon, it's the last to add to my lightweight collection from the Varsity to the Paramount
I am looking for a Volare to have as my only 70's bike and found one in CA with a dented top tube. Disassembly, repair, packing, shipping, repair and restoration will be pretty big bucks. Do you have any leads on any here in the east that perhaps don't need the restoration? Also am curious about the model you have as some had vertical dropouts but apparently some had horizontal. Wish you could move it to the front of the line and if you need room in your collection, let me know and I'll take care of it.
@@geoffreycrawley3985 My Volare is a 1977 Scarlet Red in super clean condition, I got it from a collector in Texas that collects Schwinn middle weights so he was willing to sell the Volare. I got really lucky as I had been looking for one since 2015. From what I understand, these are the Holy Grail of the lightweights based on availability and being so close to the Paramount with the exception of the Campy and Cinelli components.
The lead came from a buddy of mine who has both colors, I asked him to sell me his Pearlescent Orange and he gave me the number to the Texas collector, they are definitely hard to find, I got mine for $700 and would have paid Paramount money just to add it to my collection. Good luck with your search
Unbelievable work you've done here. This bike is absolutely beautiful.
Thank you so much! I appreciate your comment and glad you liked the content!👍👍🔧🔧
super job watching from ireland.
Thanks mate! I appreciate your comment👍👍
I have a Super LeTour 12.2 Japanese Schwinn , I'm not quite sure the Year maybe late 70s early 80s , but I love that bike it's super light and agile
Nice! The 12.2 Super Le Tour was offered by Schwinn in 1976 to 1978, 3 model years. I have a 1976 all chrome 12.2 Super Le Tour, these were the higher end Le Tour models and very collectible, thanks for sharing 👍👍🔧🔧
Wow, good job on that one Oscar! I dig it!! That red tape just pops! Funny seeing you wearing my shirt. Haha. Enjoy the Holidays.
Good to see you Brian! Yep I wear these shirts out all the time, glad you liked the Le Tour, she cleaned up well. I hope you and your family have a great Holiday Season 🎄👨👩👧👦👍👍🔧🔧
@@that70sschwinn Thanks man! Back at you. Check this out. I was getting a lot of flats out here. I changed my tires to 1- 3/8" gumwall knobbies. They look and ride Awesome. Cyclocross!! The Sports Tourer looks like it could go dirt trailing too.
@@brianchisnell1548 Pretty cool! It sounds like you are getting some nice mileage time on your ST, keep ridin' bro 💪💪👍👍
This was a nice long and detailed video of your restoration. I appreciate the detail you put into the frame and wheels which most would not have done. Since it was long I skipped around some so I might have missed a few things but here are a few thoughts from an old mechanic for what they are worth. They are ion no particular order.
I would worry some about using the existing chain with a different freewheel. I did not see if you checked for chain wear but if the chain is worn and stretched and the freewheel cogs are newer the chain might slip under force which could cause a crash.
If you had replaced the existing freewheel with a brand new one I would have for sure used a new chain as well to mesh.
It has been a long time since I have worked on a threaded hub and freewheel combination. If you can shake the freewheel and hear the bearings inside move or it is loud when not pedaling then it need to be lubricated before installation. The simple way is to turn it upside down and run oil around where it spins until it soaks into the bearing body. The lighter the oil the faster it penetrates but the faster it leaks out when on the bike. Personally I used to use a freewheel injector sold by Phil Wood (they are still around but probably stopped making the tool years ago). This tool screws into the back of the freewheel really tight and you use a fitting on it to actually inject grease into the freewheel body until it come out the other side. It makes your freewheel totally silent in use and is much better than oil as it stays in place.
I totally agree with you about using threaded valve stems for multiple reasons. They keep the valve from moving when attaching a pump, the keep the pump head on better when adding air at high pressure, and most importantly they keep the valve straight in the rim stopping flats from cut tubes when the tub shifts. That being said I think you used way too long of valve stem tubes. Those longer valve stems are made for modern deep dish rims and while working they do not look right on older shallower rims.
I would have greased or used spoke prep on all your spoke nipples before they were inserted and tighten down. As you tighten down the nipples the force on their threads increases and they have a tendency to grab and start to twist the spokes. This lubrication helps prevent this but you still need to stress all your spokes as you build the wheel to set them and try to prevent any spoke twists. For those that do not already know when you ride your bike the stress on the spokes in the wheel is not the same. No matter how tight you make a wheel you are always hanging more from the top half of the and the bottom half has less stress which constantly changes as the wheel rotates. Your wheel might look great in the truing gauge but unless you stress the spokes as building it when you go for a ride the reduced stress on the bottom spokes causes any that are twisted to start to unwind. If some were twisted you might hear a ping or two and the wheel come back out of true. Some wheels use flat spokes and then you can easily see spokes twisting as compared to traditional round ones.
I did not see you toe in your break shoes either. The front part of the brake shoe needs to hit the rim first as the brake shoe will twist once it starts to grab and if the brake shoes are initially parallel to the rim this causes them to vibrate and squeal when applied. Some brakes have a washer that twists before tightening that adjusts brake shoe angle on other brakes you actually need to slightly twist the brake arms with a wrench.
I did not see you grease or lubricate all brake and shifting cable housing before the cables were run through. This makes the cables slide better and keeps out water preventing rust inside them. Shimano actually make a product specifically to lubricate cable housings but any heayy grease will work.
When applying tires make sure your valve is not tighten all the way down as the tire needs to seat in the rim. Put the tire in place and add some air before tightening down the valve nut. If the tire is not seated it will have a high spot above the valve. I like to add some initial air and then let it all out pinching the tire all the way around afterwords making sure the entire tube has gone up into the tire and will not be pinched between the tire and rim when final pressure is added.
When I true wheels using a tool like yours I adjust the tool arm depth so that the rim fits into the top square notches and not between the pointer arms. This allows you to check for true and roundness at the same time. They way you were doing it shows whether the wheel is true but not out of round. If you own a Park self adjusting truing gauge it automatically adjusts for dish of the rear wheel and centering of the front so you do not need a separate alignment gauge. This is the tool all bike shops use to true wheels.
If your bottom threads are dirty you can clean them out really well with a Dremel with a wire wheel attachment. Just go around the inside threads on the bottom until they nice and clean. You can use them on the cup threads as well. If the cups do not screw in easily by hand without grease then they are still dirty or damaged. If the bottom threads are damaged then they can be chased out by a bike shop like new with a special tool.
With all the work you did on the frame I am surprised you did not apply your decals before you put on all those clear coats so the decals would be covered and would not get damaged as easy in the future.
I like loose bearings over caged ones as well. Shimano Dura Ace wheels still come with loose bearings and cones instead of sealed cartridge bearings which many other brands like Mavic still use. The run smoother and have tighter tolerances than sealed bearings and once broken in spin so smooth.
When re-attaching your chain the process of pushing the chain pin back in usually caused that specific link to bind. Chain tools usually have a second position to spread that link some to remove the binding. You can usually see binding links by pedaling backwards and watching if your derailleur cage jumps. On an old chain like yours I would go around and check every link by hand and try to free up any tight ones or use your chain tool to spread the tight ones until all are free.
I do not mean in any way to belittle your restoration. You did a great job plus you made a long video showing other as well. I just thought you might get something from another mechanics observations.
Thanks for the detailed feedback, it does appear you skipped over a few parts as mentioned. At the end of the day, the bike was restored to look, feel and ride like the day she rolled out of the Schwinn Dealer sales floor. The vintage 1981 Le Tour will be stored and preserved in this condition next to all my other Schwinn Lightweight category vintage beauties ... Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
Can you please tell me the size of the wrench to remove the freewheel? I have found various sources but not ready to trust them. I need your expert advice.
For the Shimano Freewheel, I used the Park Tool FR 1.2 updated to FR1.3 here is the eBay link
Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
www.ebay.com/itm/291546230161?epid=1010285512&itmmeta=01HTWM6X6S1RW7PFB5QJCZ397F&hash=item43e1826d91:g:eXwAAOSwQj9ij~Xc&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4LsD7bD8x55DCKQKOVhzeYxXbqOwkvTPqp3LjHZeJNbooonppX38Bv35HSh8l3S7t1U329466MUbawFEOOimvOwI02YM3so81HDj5dyqfe0yyWEwt0oBqIiJHNJsAi8FrGAGcyflO2gLIQ7RprHn16GEz%2BFoB7rabdFRXFA83nv2T6DuQpmvRNU0sgkSPBHJO3exijFw0Ag%2FZJwE1Rnify75W7ITo%2FYBmfNBXXWHnk7yq6btSQqRu6g7lXS8tTmkwKrjFoBLcB3WW17aMWt5CcyZfve9GIJNdCoyGhxiLRGN%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR77Tm5TXYw
What’s do you get your decals? I have a Le Tour frame just like this one but I’m having trouble finding the ring decals for the seat Tube.
Unfortunately, Velocals, closed their online store at the beginning of 2023, that's were I got all me complete decal kits, including the stripes, frame tubbing 1020 and X-tralite decals. I'm hoping that I can find them on eBay going forward, I get many of my downtube and toptube decals there, look for the seller bicycle bones, he has many Schwinn decals. Good luck and thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
Lovely job!
Glad you liked it and Thanks for watching👍🔧
Nice paint job.
I paint a light coats , let tack up then spray all coats letting them tack up between coats then spray the clear coats just as if I'm painting more coats.
Then wait a week and sand the clear to remove the orange peel and dirt, if any. Buff/ rub the clear for the shine. make sure you put enough clear coats on so you don't buff thru the clear.
I'm saying this because you said in the video that you would come back and sand the paint and spray the other coats, thats ok but it's more work.
Your paint jobs look great but I though info would be good. 100 ten ways to skin a cat.
Nice! yes I saw that technique used for automotive finishes, sand and buff the last coat, definitely less work especially on large surfaces. I sand to a smooth feel between every coat including the primer, each coat goes on top of a smooth surface and minimizes orange peel on every layer. Your method certainly gets great results looking at those nicely finished fenders and tank, thanks for sharing👍👍🔧🔧
@@that70sschwinn ... Always sand the primer , but it's not necessary to sand each paint coat unless you have a problem, then you can let dry and repaint. Because sanding each coat you are just starting over. Orange peel can occur with any coat, it's because of paint mixture, temperature or mixing wrong and many other reasons. You'er not minimizing orange peel by sanding between coats. If your surface is clean and smooth theres no need to sand between coats. Sand and buff the clear for the smooth shine.
@@goodboyringo9716 If it feels rough it's not a smooth surface, in most cases it's overspray that creates that gritty feel. When applying several coats of finish to a project it becomes necessary to sand between coats to not only remove any trash that has settled into the finish but also to promote good adhesion between the layers of finish. I rarely get orange peel, my top coat and clear coats need minimal wet sanding before a good buff. I believe any method ends up looking about the same as long as the paint is applied evenly. My dad was a master craftsman and specialized in lacquer finishes on fine furniture and pianos. I did plenty of sanding for him as a kid while probably inhaling too much paint fume 🤣🥴🤪
What tape did you used in your drop bar?
I use the Schwinn approved flexon tape, available on eBay see more details at the 30:05 time stamp
Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
Great work as usual, Oscar!
Thanks Rich! I finally got the motivation to complete the project💪💪🔧🔧
Schwinn is one of the great bikes back in the days no doubt
Incredible transformation. Good call on the red bar tape. there is a yellow le tour on market place in my area ,this video makes me want to go and buy it.I am glad you covered all your bikes when spraying i forgot once to cover some bikes while spraying and it was a bummer haha
Thanks! These Le Tours are pretty decent bikes, I have a 1974 in Red, 1974 was the first year and first import featured in the Schwinn catalog, Sounds like the one you saw on market place may be a the 1974 Kool Lemon Le Tour 🤔
@@that70sschwinn yes i just was looking at it a few minutes ago it is a kool lemon for sure but some one has converted to upright bars and the frame is just too small for me -but maybe i can fix it up and re sell. so pre 74 le tours where made in the usa?
@@faulknerfixesall No, there was a 1973 Le Tour that was only sold at dealerships but not advertised in the catalogs along with the 1973 World Voyageur. The serial numbers on the '73 World Voyageurs indicate that they were stamped in 1972 and sold as 1973 model years.
The Le Tour replaced the Super sport in 1974 in the lightweight lineup . That was also the first year for the curve seat tube Sprint, Both the Sprint and the Le Tour was offered in the Opaque Red, Opaque Blue and Kool Lemon. 👍👍
@@that70sschwinn thanx so much for all the info.i had a curved bar sprint a few years ago and sold it.I really wish i had it now .they seem to have increased a bit in the rare factor.
@@faulknerfixesall Yes, they are not a common to find based on production numbers, they were basically a Continental with a short frame, during my initial search, I purchased a Sprint frame stamped 1975 but sold as a 1976 in Silver Mist with the just introduced Schwinn Decals, the bikes were not featured in any catalog. Later I found out that Schwinn was moving 1975 overstocked warranty frames. The frame was pretty rusty so I repainted it in the Opaque Red and looking back, I wish I would have know about those details and would have restored it as offered in 1976. I did think about redoing it but could not find the 1976 Sprint Decals anywhere, these have the SCHWINN on the downtube and SPRINT on the top tube. I posted a video when I first got it and before I found out about the 1976 Sprint details. th-cam.com/video/PrG08mXK_Uo/w-d-xo.html
i love vintages bike 🚲
Glad you do and thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧
I have watched this video several times and it doesn't get old.
That's pretty cool Mario! glad you liked the content👍👍🔧🔧
I have the same bike im restoring.Where did you find the red/white decals?I have looked everywhere for the right ones.Could you hook me up to the vender?Love your restorations and ideas to make it easier and look great.
Thanks! the downtube Schwinn decal I got on eBay with this seller Bicycle bones, I believe I got the top tube small Le Tour from him as well, you can contact him , here is the link
www.ebay.com/itm/333127145175?hash=item4d8fecd6d7:g:U2gAAOxyHslQ9IMJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoFFd26C1u3I0eOFb%2FSHAAtbD9UIcjK5rGaedklxujA8HNcatwxVx5MOThVTDBNkU8H%2FvISFKHXX%2F4IcSs2Hq0qBOlmbBGiHsuLsfA2FhPCGJeyXEfEIR1jFHLbReu0FydwWlFRT6ZOE6pmOJ0a0cBkNck5m3amwWiaMhQ7AZTwcLKMvhtJBTxnSJ9N%2FOEkNTRbOJMJimA6HUg4DblOMnNhs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR66dn9-YYQ
The rest of the decals were found on Valocals website, they sell complete kits based on model and year
Here is the link, I did a quick search and pulled up the red and white stripes, you can also build a kit, you can contact them as well for more details. Thanks for watching 👍👍🔧🔧
velocals.com/search.php?search_query=schwinn+le+tour§ion=product
@@that70sschwinn I found them on eBay but they didnt look like the oem red/white stripe.Thank you so much for your response and info,and Happy Holidays to you and your family!.
@@ryanvarnold6819 Thank you Ryan! good luck with your project and Happy Holidays to you and you family as well👍🎄
Como limpiaste los mecanismos de Frenos, Plato, Bielas etc antes de sácale brillo, algún desengrasante o Gasoil 😊
Just curious what the resale price for it would be ? great job!
I see these on eBay from $175 to $425 in original decent condition. Thanks for watching👍🔧
@@that70sschwinn Thanks, you do amazing work !
@@Joeblade1966 Thanks! Glad you liked the content and I appreciate your comment👍
Interesting and wow! I learned a lot.
Glad you found the content interesting and I appreciate you stopping by ... Thanks👍👍🔧🔧
Wow,looks great
Glad you found part II, she did clean up well, definitely worth restoring 👍👍🔧🔧
This looks phenomenal. It’s like a silver bullet. The red really pops on it.
Thanks! I like the red as well 👍👍
Those teeth on the freewheel don't look broken, they look like short teeth for easier shifting
You are correct, turns out, Shimano placed those short teeth on the cogs along with the twist tooth shapes (calling it "Uniglide") to improve shifting quality. The Freewheel is stamped as Shimano UG. I plan to restore , overhaul and install the original part to make the restoration complete. Thanks for watching👍👍🔧🔧