BC Faller Training Standard - Chainsaw Maintenance (3 of 17)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2012
- This video series is the companion to the BC Faller Training Standard, which was designed to teach new fallers safe work procedures for falling and bucking. The goal is to help workers with forestry experience develop the knowledge, attitude, skills, and abilities that will enable them to function as safe and productive fallers. Note: Some practices demonstrated were modified for filming and may not be consistent with the BC Faller Training Standard.
Find information and resources on manual falling & bucking here: www.worksafebc.com/en/health-...
__________________________________________________________
We’re working to make a difference in workplace health and safety in British Columbia, Canada. By partnering with workers and employers, we help British Columbians come home from work safe every day.
Subscribe to our channel: th-cam.com/users/WorkSafe...
Find us on social media:
Twitter: / worksafebc
Instagram: / worksafebc
Facebook: / worksafebc
LinkedIn: / worksafebc
Visit our website for the most up-to-date health and safety information and regulatory requirements: www.worksafebc.com
#WorkSafeBC #workplacehealthandsafety
Legal terms:
All videos posted by the Workers’ Compensation Board (“WorkSafeBC”) are protected by Canadian and international copyright laws, policies, and treaties. The use of WorkSafeBC videos and other materials is governed by WorkSafeBC’s copyright and trademark statement, available here: www.worksafebc.com/en/legal/c.... Videos cannot be uploaded to other channels without prior permission. If you wish to request permission for use of our videos, please contact us: copyright [at] worksafebc.com
Find information and resources on manual falling & bucking here: www.worksafebc.com/en/health-safety/industries/forestry/types/manual-falling-bucking
This is interesting. The comments are equally as good as the video.
I would be glad to donate to your fund so you can quite using Husqvarna saws. Stihl is the way to go.
The air filter cover should never be open until first you put the choke on....so nothing gets in the carb...
Can you elaborate? Do you mean putting the lever in the 4th position?
@@tomatito3824 Close the choke all the way so debris doesn't get in. Furthest position, I know you have to pull the blue all the way out on the Husqvarna saws. Stihl has a diagram on most of the saws I've worked with showing choke position.
Useful info, but you should never make any carb adjustments unless your air filter is very clean or new.
I use a 2" stiff paint brush to help clean-up
On the end of the crankshaft by the clutch there is a small hole about 1" deep and a side hole in it that goes up to the clutch roller bearing. Give it a couple of pumps of grease or shell out money for a new bearing. No need to take it apart.
When sharpening the chain I always, move the chain forward this reduces the chance of being cut, if your hand slips
He’s got on cut proof Gloved PPE, don’t worry.
File teeth first then file rakers not rakers first.
Why?
Wrong...never sharpen the teeth first....there is a reason... keep searching... it's a very logical explanation....
@@JoseMartinez-ku6so no it is not. You file teeth first.
The second you file the tooth your depth guage is out.
@@JoseMartinez-ku6so The depth of cut is gauged from the top of the cutter. Sharpening will lower thos height.
If you are doing a light touch up, it wont matter. If you are sharpening out more substantial wear/damage then your rakers will be high.
I use a brush to clean the filter every time I pull the air then I remove the chain and check the chain bar for wear and grease
I like how he puts the clutch cover down lol
I pick my saws up by the starter rope and judge how fast the saw drops for a rough field compression test. I can usually spot a developing problem. This done weekly on a cold saw.
What? Your saw shouldnt even drop when you hold it by the cord, if it does you have serious issues.
Probably going to depend on the size of the saw. A small one won't pull the cord by it's own weight but a large one might.
At 6.06 He puts the sidecover with the chain brake still on from when He cleaned it, that ain't gonna work, the brake band isn't going to go over the hub.
What makes you think the air filter is not clean? And also if it's not you can readjust when replace air filter
NOT at all the way to adjust chain slack/tension @5:50. As shown, there's lots of slack. Adjust slack & tighten bar nuts WHILE PRESSING UP ON BAR NOSE. All guesswork is now gone.
What model husqvarna him use?
Is this guy moving in slow motion ?
Anyone know what watch he's wearing?
Each tooth don't need the same amount of strokes
11:33what if the chain still moves after adjusting the idle screw
Good question. Here's my 2 cents worth on it. The idle could be set too high, the clutch shoes could be worn thin or have weakened springs- that can happen if the clutch overheats. Overheating can take the spring temper out of the springs, or weaken them. Overheating comes from slippage, over tight chains or damaged components, or not enough oil, to name a few. When a saw runs lean- think of when you run a tank dry and the engine revs up before it quits, it revs up sometimes due to fuel supply restrictions. The fuel line may be collapsing or pinched, and there is a weighted filter in the tank that might need to be cleaned or replaced.
Saws and carburetors can be finicky, sometimes you (me too) just have to take it to a saw shop. A running chain can maim or kill in a hurry. Stay safe, Joe
Just adjust the screw that has an L on it it is the low end jet if you back the screw out maybe a courter turn it will bring the idle down
Don't forget to put thick gloves on before working on saw...
:-)
He literally has cut-proof Gloved PPE.
9:10 "a NEW chain is not sharp, and must be filed before use." uh, are you sure??
Patrick Wagz Agreed. A new Stihl chain will be as sharp as it will ever be with me.
+Patrick Wagz
Yes,if you know how to put a proper edge on a chain,new out of the box or off the roll needs sharpened.
+Patrick Wagz Stihl chain is nice, but all of them seem to have too high depth gauges and some really are pretty dull
News to me too, Patrick! We used a lot of Oregon Brand chain, square tooth skip, chisel and round file in the woods in the 1970's on up. It was sharp right off the roll - and I never knew anyone to sharpen a new chain. Huh. I'd like to see that test comparison. Nowadays they got micro chisel - I'd like to see it too. The hot saw guys use special grinds for each species and moisture content - or so I heard.
Apparently you and the ones you worked with didn't know how to sharpen a chain real well if they couldn't get it sharper than a factory edge.....
Don't fret a higher % of people can't and even a higher % screws it up bad,even compared to the factory edge.
Done right,you can not get a better edge.
I think they mean "adequately" :)
The chainsaw works well if you use it but if you lend it bye bye
He sets the newly oiled and cleaned bar right into a pile of sawdust...
I seen thar
why would you file the rakers b4 the cutters? let me answer that, you wouldn't.
It doesn't force the saw to dig in deep.
I don't do it but I happen to know some guys who do and their chains cut just fine.
I learned to do it teeth first when I was an apprentice. One reason that I've heard for filing rakers first is that the file gauge can dull your freshly filed teeth.
If it cuts, and cuts safely, it's fine is my personal opinion though.
What a terrible chain tensioner design.
Come on work safe.... file cutters first...then rakers..number of strokes does not matter....just get it sharp.
Haha Vic. I was thinking the same thing. The need a BBR lesson.
A new chain is not sharp! Well okay then!
Once a day or with every tank.... if you're only burning 9ne tank a day, you're friggin lazy! 🤣
True, but I think the "once every tank" was specific to working with fur or fire kill trees. So, more than once per day.