Excellent video, I’m not an insulation contractor but as a builder we recommend the same strategies. During renovations, we assess the current condition of the attics which typically have poor if any ventilation or air sealing at the floor. Before we bring in our insulators, we remove all existing insulation and vacuum the entire space. This allows air sealing, ventilation, electrical and plumbing work to be carried out easily and efficiently. Once all of this is done we run a mid construction blower door to test and verify work before our insulators arrive.
Enjoyed your video. I've been wondering about my current project maybe you can shed some light on this? Renovating a small 1938 house and installing new variable speed heat pump and ducting in attic, how do I insure ducts are not going to condensate? I don't think I can make it part of the controlled envelope, has vented roof and gabble vents. Thanks
Hi and thanks for commenting. If you've got a duct system in an attic space you really want to put some thought into it. You first want to have R-8 rated flex hose (if you have flex), air sealed register boots going into the floor and trunk line, and then to insulate the trunk line the best method by far is with spray foam. You would completely encapsulate it. I'll be putting up a video soon where I show how we encapsulated the entire trunk line in this attic. Andy
Hello, You mentioned a link for a much better solution for insulating and making the attic hatch/entry air tight. I was about to buy one of the zipper ones off of Amazon. What do you suggest is the best for two small ceiling access panels in bedroom closets. Myself and my kids were dx with CIRS from Mold Toxicity so we are spending the winter without any carpet, mattresses or insulation in the attic. My heating bill is so high and we keep it cold. I just don't want to rush with any products that would be unhealthy for indoor air quality or have any issues with mold ever again. Glad to find your channel!
Hello and thank you. This is the link for our attic hatch solution. It requires some carpentry and is designed for a pull down ladder. But it could be just as easily implemented for a smaller "gravity hatch." th-cam.com/video/1CoYbMxrkXM/w-d-xo.html The zippered covers will work better than nothing in a jam. Hope this helps!
In your opinion what's the best way to redo the air barrier in a conventional attic where the poly is installed between the drywall and the roof joists? My 60's house has thin (3mil?) poly and its in tough shape
Hi there, you want to watch this video and it'll give you all the info that you need. That 60's poly is shot, guaranteed. You'll need to air seal from the attic side, all of the penetrations. Let me know if you have more questions. Air Sealing Video: th-cam.com/video/PUSONSE7srE/w-d-xo.html Andy
@@insulwiseenergycomfortsolu3293 Thanks that video is helpful! One thing to clarify, is poly between the drywall and the attic not really needed for the most part? Does the drywall act as an air & moisture barrier as long as there are no penetrations? The current poly install is continuous over the entire surface of the drywall but I see that is not the case in your example. I am located in Southern Ontario so similar climate zone to Pittsburgh
I live in central Alberta with temps down to -40 f. The roof is currently vented with gabble vents. Is there any point in even considering spray foam ? Or would I be better off air sealing and reinsulting
Only closed cell foam if you're going that way, but it's expensive and possibly problematic. We are bigger proponents of air sealing the attic floor, insulating to R-60 (in your area), and ventilating the roof properly.
I'm in the same area. Since you only mention gable vents, is your house older? Mine was built in 1952 (originally only had gable vents) and I recently started looking into upgrading attic insulation. An obstacle I have run into is the presence of the original layer of vermiculite insulation. It was widely used before around 1990 and is considered to be contaminated with asbestos. Every insulation company I have contacted has said complete abatement is required before they would work in the attic. It is considered safe if not disturbed. But any attic work - venting, insulating, etc poses a hazard. Abatement estimates have ranged from C$12,000 -$20,000 for about 750 sq ft of attic space.. Re-insulation is on top of that. Definitely something to consider.
@@j.frankparnell3087Find a handy-person to add an additional layer of insulation your attic, on top of the vermiculite, without disturbing it. It certainly doesn't take professionals to add insulation. If they wear an APR-air purifying respirator, their lungs will be safe, and you'll save a lot of money.
Does (existing) open cell foam (several inches) sprayed under the roof deck between TJI ceiling rafters negate the functioning of (existing) ridge vent and insulating baffles? How should this be addressed? What insulation (and where) can bring the above walls insulation close to R60? (CO, dry arid).
Was the open cell foam sprayed over top of the baffles? Is there an air channel between the roof sheathing and the foam? I would have no idea how to get the walls of an existing home to R-60, short of building new interior or exterior walls over top of your existing walls, and then insulating those.
@@insulwiseenergycomfortsolu3293 thanks for the reply. Not sure if airflow exists- I have heard that some consider open cell to be permeable and less air tight than closed cell foam. Concerned about increasing R value in attic (ie above walls). It seems batts on the attic floor may be the way to go, and then either making the attic part of the conditioned envelope, or adding new vents depending on how much airflow the roof deck currently has.
@@JL-hn6hi I'm sorry but I can't visualize the specific issues that you have going on there. My best suggestion would be to consult with a building science based insulation company in your area, if you are able to.
Don't spray foam under your roofing no matter what foam you use. People have no idea what you have to do to make that a good thing and it isn't worth it. Stick with sealing and insulating the attic "floor" and do it right.
Excellent video, I’m not an insulation contractor but as a builder we recommend the same strategies. During renovations, we assess the current condition of the attics which typically have poor if any ventilation or air sealing at the floor. Before we bring in our insulators, we remove all existing insulation and vacuum the entire space. This allows air sealing, ventilation, electrical and plumbing work to be carried out easily and efficiently. Once all of this is done we run a mid construction blower door to test and verify work before our insulators arrive.
Great input! It's awesome to hear builders prioritize that thorough process for their clients. Makes a world of difference.
Great presentation of subject and clearly technically comprehensible (,,well explained,)
Great work.
I appreciate the compliment! Glad you found it useful.
So important, thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Enjoyed your video. I've been wondering about my current project maybe you can shed some light on this?
Renovating a small 1938 house and installing new variable speed heat pump and ducting in attic, how do I insure ducts are not going to condensate? I don't think I can make it part of the controlled envelope, has vented roof and gabble vents. Thanks
Hi and thanks for commenting. If you've got a duct system in an attic space you really want to put some thought into it. You first want to have R-8 rated flex hose (if you have flex), air sealed register boots going into the floor and trunk line, and then to insulate the trunk line the best method by far is with spray foam. You would completely encapsulate it. I'll be putting up a video soon where I show how we encapsulated the entire trunk line in this attic.
Andy
Hello,
You mentioned a link for a much better solution for insulating and making the attic hatch/entry air tight. I was about to buy one of the zipper ones off of Amazon. What do you suggest is the best for two small ceiling access panels in bedroom closets. Myself and my kids were dx with CIRS from Mold Toxicity so we are spending the winter without any carpet, mattresses or insulation in the attic. My heating bill is so high and we keep it cold. I just don't want to rush with any products that would be unhealthy for indoor air quality or have any issues with mold ever again. Glad to find your channel!
Hello and thank you. This is the link for our attic hatch solution. It requires some carpentry and is designed for a pull down ladder. But it could be just as easily implemented for a smaller "gravity hatch."
th-cam.com/video/1CoYbMxrkXM/w-d-xo.html
The zippered covers will work better than nothing in a jam. Hope this helps!
In your opinion what's the best way to redo the air barrier in a conventional attic where the poly is installed between the drywall and the roof joists? My 60's house has thin (3mil?) poly and its in tough shape
Hi there, you want to watch this video and it'll give you all the info that you need. That 60's poly is shot, guaranteed. You'll need to air seal from the attic side, all of the penetrations. Let me know if you have more questions.
Air Sealing Video:
th-cam.com/video/PUSONSE7srE/w-d-xo.html
Andy
@@insulwiseenergycomfortsolu3293
Thanks that video is helpful!
One thing to clarify, is poly between the drywall and the attic not really needed for the most part?
Does the drywall act as an air & moisture barrier as long as there are no penetrations?
The current poly install is continuous over the entire surface of the drywall but I see that is not the case in your example.
I am located in Southern Ontario so similar climate zone to Pittsburgh
I live in central Alberta with temps down to -40 f.
The roof is currently vented with gabble vents. Is there any point in even considering spray foam ? Or would I be better off air sealing and reinsulting
Only closed cell foam if you're going that way, but it's expensive and possibly problematic. We are bigger proponents of air sealing the attic floor, insulating to R-60 (in your area), and ventilating the roof properly.
I'm in the same area. Since you only mention gable vents, is your house older? Mine was built in 1952 (originally only had gable vents) and I recently started looking into upgrading attic insulation. An obstacle I have run into is the presence of the original layer of vermiculite insulation. It was widely used before around 1990 and is considered to be contaminated with asbestos. Every insulation company I have contacted has said complete abatement is required before they would work in the attic. It is considered safe if not disturbed. But any attic work - venting, insulating, etc poses a hazard. Abatement estimates have ranged from C$12,000 -$20,000 for about 750 sq ft of attic space.. Re-insulation is on top of that. Definitely something to consider.
@@j.frankparnell3087Find a handy-person to add an additional layer of insulation your attic, on top of the vermiculite, without disturbing it.
It certainly doesn't take professionals to add insulation.
If they wear an APR-air purifying respirator, their lungs will be safe, and you'll save a lot of money.
Does (existing) open cell foam (several inches) sprayed under the roof deck between TJI ceiling rafters negate the functioning of (existing) ridge vent and insulating baffles? How should this be addressed? What insulation (and where) can bring the above walls insulation close to R60? (CO, dry arid).
Was the open cell foam sprayed over top of the baffles? Is there an air channel between the roof sheathing and the foam? I would have no idea how to get the walls of an existing home to R-60, short of building new interior or exterior walls over top of your existing walls, and then insulating those.
@@insulwiseenergycomfortsolu3293 thanks for the reply. Not sure if airflow exists- I have heard that some consider open cell to be permeable and less air tight than closed cell foam. Concerned about increasing R value in attic (ie above walls). It seems batts on the attic floor may be the way to go, and then either making the attic part of the conditioned envelope, or adding new vents depending on how much airflow the roof deck currently has.
@@JL-hn6hi I'm sorry but I can't visualize the specific issues that you have going on there. My best suggestion would be to consult with a building science based insulation company in your area, if you are able to.
I SEE A VIDEO BY ANDY AND I MUST WATCH IT
Andy, you're like the Devon Larrat of attics lol
Ha! I had to look him up. I don't think I'd like to meet him in an attic, lol ; )
Geez, I wish you were closer to me.
Are you hiring. Have experience. Reliable. Working currently for insulation company.
Hi there, do you live in Pittsburgh?
Don't spray foam under your roofing no matter what foam you use. People have no idea what you have to do to make that a good thing and it isn't worth it. Stick with sealing and insulating the attic "floor" and do it right.
I agree ! Long term risk vs reward(from my experience) is HEAVILY outweighed