I have a vanquish with tiagra fitted on it, carbon forks, i love it but i know there are people who would look down on it, to me its just a bike and it gives me a lot of fun and fitness which are the best two reasons to cycle, whatever hobbies you do you will never keep up with the obsessive types who can't sleep unless they have the latest and best available . Great video.
Bought my first (new to me) road bike last weekend. Giant Defy 3, love it. Took it out for a ride, got to a hill and ground to a halt! Gearing is 12-23 on the rear cassette! useless for climbs. Worth suggesting people check the gearing of a used bike they buy! haha
Took my Fuji Monterey in for service and started talking to the employee and ... I just bought one of their very lightly used Specialized XL bikes. It is elegant. Tomorrow I pick it up after changing out the tires for puncture-resistant and other accessories like front & back lights. Yes, tomorrow is my, "New Bike Day" Leonard. I enjoy your channel. Thank you very much sir. Charlie, Salem, MA
"Buying a bike should be an emotional decision..." I thought that was wrong when I heard it, but the more I think about it the more I realise how right you are. Great advice here, intelligent and clear. A brilliant video.
I've been cycling for over 50 years & am still learning. Your Bike fit tips have improved my ride. Bought a second hand cyclo-cross bike from a dealer earlier in the year. With road tyres and a slightly larger cassette I have a excellent bike for £200
Love the channel but have to disagree with some things here. Steel is generally seen as being more comfortable than aluminium and some prefer it to carbon. Aluminium has a reputation for transmitting road buzz but is plenty stiff. Carbon can be both stiff and comfortable depending on the way it is layered and the lightest frames are carbon, not titanium. The outer chainring is different on compact vs standard. The outer ring on a compact will have 50 teeth whereas a standard will have 53. Being attached to your pedals is certainly an advantage, but it is not 30% more efficient, that claim was debunked long ago.
HI Leonard,, as you know I love the channel, but, there are many mis-conceptione in this video. As above, your frame material comments are incorrect as are several comments on chain rings and cassettes and as above clip less is about 15% more efficient , not the stated 30%.
The others all seem to have jumped all over you on the frame bit. I tend to agree with them; touring bikes are usually steel for a good reason. We are all heavily invested in the sport and so take it all to heart. However, for the average person getting into the sport they are looking at cheap. Cheap equals steel, for entry level. Cheap also means crap so well done in trying to steer them away from those ones. I have lots of friends with cheap bikes who don't ride them because they are crap bikes.
@captain pugwash Strangely I've had some cheap steel bikes and actually really liked the frames and the comfort level but of course the bikes themselves were fitted with poor components. High tensile steel gets a bad rap but if you are a heavy rider like myself it provides just the right amount of flex in my experience which brings me to my second point frames don't act the same for all weight people. What is a comfortable frame for a 60kg rider may be a horrible flexy frame for a 110kg rider and the same can be true for a horrible rigid steel frame for a 60kg rider but a super pleasant frame for a 110kg rider. It's easy to get brainwashed by reviews by people of low weight who mainly review bikes but clearly any structure like a bicycle frame will act differently for different loads, it would be pointless me taking on board a review of a rider half my weight on many frames. CF may not as much due to its properties and some 7005 aluminium frames are incredibly rigid whatever the weight of the rider but 6000 series aluminium, steel and titanium can feel different depending on rider weight. Any bicycle frame that does allow flexing in its design will have more flexing with heavier riders. This is clearly obvious to any engineer but its amazing how rarely this information is stated in the cycling media. One man's perfect frame is another mans horrible frame.
a “ must watch” video for anybody getting into cycling. my golfing buddies are joining me on the trails as they see how fit I have become.....they are in the process of shopping and getting educated....I forwarded this to them...they will appreciate it! good work!
leonardmlee yes....the choices are so many and intimidating....but the cost is really negligible as it is generally a one time hit and there is zero cost for each usage....compared to golf where there is club dues( which is huge) plus all of the monthly fees and equipment updates or being a fisherman and dealing with boat costs or skiing which requires lift passes, travel and hotel accommodations. A one time purchase of a few thousand dollars isn’t really a big deal...every time I go riding it FREE whereas my golf costs me $100 every time I tee it up or fishing is a few hundred bucks for a tank of gas.
Awesome topic. When I started bike commuting a couple of years ago, I started on a hybrid bike with skinny tires. It was fun to ride but the road to work isn't very smooth even though it's paved. I kept bending the rims. Now I ride a mountain bike with low roll resistance tires and a suspension fork in the front. I feel like I have the best commuter bike for me. The point is, it took me a while to settle in on the best bike.
I am a strong believer that cycling and the comfort of cycling is down to the individual and that unfortunately there are some cycling snobs that say you should cycle and have your bike a certain way but it’s all down to Individual preference and to keep it fun 😉
my first serious bike was a Giant , Semi-Mountain , which I purchased in March 2013 , it was great to ride , with 27 gears all up , ( 9 on the cassette and 3 on the chain ring ) , in July 2013 I had 4 small heart attacks , spent a month in hospital , and after I was discharged , found I had little strength in my legs , so my local bike shop had the Giant upgraded to an E bike ( front wheel drive ) it was great , only problem was the Lithium battery was on the back and in reality the front was almost void of weight , making the bike susceptible to out of balance ( especially mounting driveways ) ; In 2017 I purchased a Quick E bike with center drive ( Yamaha ) great to ride and I still do especially on my long ride on Saturdays to Claremont and back ( Kingston ) about 80 km . ; in April this yr I purchased an Evanti Montari E Sport , ( Shimano E power , much more superior to Yamaha ) , which has 1 draw back the Battery power ( and that's using all of my , "Granny" Gears on the cassette ) , only last 60 km , the bike shop has ordered a new battery from Shimano , and hope this will be the answer ! P.S. Can I have Your Email address again as I have misplaced what was on one of Your Videos , or You can send me Your E mail address to ; dnebugg@gmail.com Many thanks Leonard !
I work in one of those "LBS's". Actually, I'm the one selling bikes. And my first Question is where you want to ride. Then if you have considered a budged. And before I go into any detail I offer Test riding the chosen bicycle. A LBS has a big Difference to the I-Net : you are directly dealing with each other. In my case: often with the next Generation of Customers! So: I like your Point of view. Keep up your good work. ( VERY nice Video Material BTW)
First bike should be a hybrid /city bike. Mountain bikes are too heavy and road bikes can be too light. As Goldilocks would say a hybrid bike is just right
If you have a little bit of experience, my choice would be a used touring bike. If you take this route choose carefully, but bear in mind things like tyres can be easily changed, and a different saddle to suit is no problem. From my point of view I like steel frames, for the comfortable ride, and I find 28mm tyres adequate for both urban and rural use whilst allowing reasonable speed. I don't bump up curbs, or do rough trails, but a good touring bike will do off-road as long as you are reasonable. Some form of dropped bars are fine for all day riding on the hoods, and yes I do have mudguards, as I see no point in getting myself and the bike dirty. A used Dawes galaxy is always a good choice but there are many other choices out there. No Lycra, but some running tights and top are useful. Go out every day and discover the Joy's and utility of the cycle.
Leonard, I really enjoy your advice and wonderful videos, just let me confess I struggled a los to get used to those clipless pedals...really suffered some very dumb falls hahahaha
February I am buying my First road bike. Have settled on a Ribble R872 with 105 groupset including disc brakes. Wife is getting me a garmin 820 computer for x-mas, she doesn't know that yet, and am going to run xt SPD pedals as I need to be able to walk in my shoes.
I once had an American tell me that the British pronunciation of that word was the more accurate based on the actual name of the element in the periodic table.
If you're considering a hybrid / commute bike, consider Tannus (airless) tires. I've tried them out this year & they're amazing. Never need to be inflated & won't "puncture". Also guaranteed for 5,000 miles of wear.
Great video on getting into cycling! 2 years i began with a Walmart bike (great learning experience). Then I bought a Trek domane AL2, which turned cycling into a hobby for me. From Nashbar, I got a great deal on a Fuji knock-off aluminum bike (Its called a Cavalo) before they were bought out, it has 105 groupset and loads of fun. Just recently purchased a Canyon Ultimate (Ultegra). ( I commented on this in another one of your videos) This turned out to be a treat as the result of losing 16kg in the last 4 months. So the Walmart bike has since been sold and I'm really enjoying the others I have considering I'm 6ft-5', 60yrs old. Ride on my friend!
Buying a new bike is exciting , I have 5 in my garage ( 2 of which I bought new )lol. These are good basic tips which probably could of done with knowing before buying my first one lol. Trouble is I never found a good bike shop which actually had any real knowledge and was prepared to fit the bike to me in any way shape or form, they allowed a short test ride around the car park which simply was not enough to judge if it was right for me. Halfords is my only local bike shop now so that's pretty useless apart from they do allow extended test rides.
The best thing to do is buy a cheap hybrid bike on Craig's list Then you can get enough experience with bikes so that you can then move up or not . I started this way and now have several bikes and one very expensive one that I cant do without
Another great video, best advice is to get a bike fit, however basic. As the most common mistake, is to buy a frame size too big (due to following manufacturers sizing chart) , my first bike I ended buying a second hand one, two sizes too big. On a road bike, If you are between sizes, always go down a size and raise the saddle height and add a longer stem. Frame materials are so good these days, that this is less important for comfort, if you are worried about comfort, use wider tyres with lower pressures, much more effective than any frame material.
In such a short space of time you covered this quite well. Not sure if its just TH-cam or how the world works nowadays to generate a debate about frames and chain rings!!! I could hear the adenoids squeaking as the facts came through!!!For me, I came to road cycling from MTB I did not fancy a road bike much but was badgered by some friends in the village so, a compromise was made I bought an Giant SLR fast road with flat bars and the rest being all road bike. I now have a number of Giant bikes from the Anyroad advanced to the Defy pro 0 and they all have different quirks which make them better than another on a given day.One poster added the myth that I hear and read a lot about the bike being fast!!!! No such thing as a fast bike only a good rider. put a crap rider on a top end bike they will still be a crap rider. a good rider on a crap bike will be a good rider the speed etc comes from the human. Now, we can waffle about aero and marginal gains but, I have done a good few Sportives and tests on my fast road and mullered guys on the top end bikes who pose around on them. I have never pushed my £1100 roadster up any climb but seen plenty of people on £8/9/plus grand bikes walking up hills and, can ride as fats or faster than most.If a bike shop tells you a ride is fast then leave the shop would be my advice. The only point I would have said in the video would be to have a bike fit first then buy a bike. too many people buy the bike then try and fit it to themselves after.ignore the snobbery that exists in the cycling world and don't fall for the guff. If you want to ride Sora then do so it will do equally as well as the top end stuff. Marketing shite and snobbery are the easy way to spend much more than you need and to forget why you want to ride in the first place For me, Giant will always get my cash because I don't see the need to spend £10 grand on a cycle when I can do everything required on a bike half the price or with some of mine much less than half.Oh and always buy disc brakesGood Vid
I want a bike with 531 steel d/b tubing, 72 degree frame, J-shaped forks, a hub gear, to use with 28mm tyres, weighing about 12kg. They don't seem to be around any more. Nearly all new bikes have straight forks.
I'm still a newbie but after my 1st flat instead of buying a bike computer, i bought a better mini pump, a couple of C02 cartridges, and swapped the tires for Continental's Gatorskins folding bead. The old tires I'll keep for turbo trainer😁. I guess my point being that i showed self control and bought tires and accessories critical to maintaining my Bike, vs a computer. As for my emotions, I'm ok with my decision....I think lol
What I do when looking at bikes is feel how stiff and springy the bike is. The test I do is hold the bike by the end of the handle bar at arms length then place the crank facing me at the lowest point then I just put some side load onto that pedal and release the pressure from my foot. You can see and feel the bike and wheels move with the side load applied. The stiffer the bike the less movement. The problem with different materials, thicknesses, manufacture techniques and different design you just don't know from reading a spec sheet. What are you actually getting. With this test you can see and feel the stiffness and springiness of the bike. I think it's best to ride as many bikes you can with different geometries then decide for yourself what you like in a bike. After a few years of riding you will know what dimensions, geometry and material your dream bike will be. So the first one shouldn't be that expensive it's all learning and it's all personal preference in the end. Just get out there and have fun.
It's not all about frame material any more. The size and flexibility of your tires will make more of a difference in ride quality than the frame ever did.
My LBS recently closed due to the owner wanting to spend more time with his family so I'm down to buying bikes and gear at the local big box store ( Wal-Mart ). The closest two other shops are in the next county and a bit too snobby for my taste or in another state where I ride regularly. The second shop does more rentals and tends to put their new bike stock into service... Which means that new bike may not be so new. Thankfully I'm a wrench head so building my own from parts is a been there done that thing. Nice synopsis and great video!
Hi Leonard great vid I do have a carrera hybrid I’ve had this bike for 3 months and it is absolutely superb but recently I brought a road bike I have only used it once I’m very pleased with it but due to the weather I’m sticking with the hybrid plus the road bike needs a few tweaks 👍🏻
Overall very good. But I have some quibbles. Firstly, you don't have to stick with just one LBS. If you are lucky enough to have multiple bike shops local to you, check them out and compare. Different bike shops may focus on different types of riding or offer varying levels of service. Finding a shop that fits you can matter almost as much as a bike that fits you. Secondly, this video is from a roadie perspective. If you are riding offroad, commuting, or distance touring then it's not merely a consideration of cost to weight savings but you also want to factor in durability, comfort, and/or cargo capacity into your buying decisions. Thirdly, the two big debates are clips vs flats and rim brakes vs disc brakes. New buyers should look into why these are debated and figure which options are best for their own type of riding. Neither of these debates has a single correct answer, just better and worse answers for different types of riders.
You have a very high opinion of your LBS. I went into my 3 closest LBS and none of them were particularly keen in offering 'advice'. They were happy to 'sell' me something - but not to tailor it to my needs (above the basic 'what type of riding will you do?') - I still find all the LBS I have been into either as a. incompetent (halfords) or b. snobby.
I seem to be getting a lot of people saying similar things about their LBS. maybe I have been very lucky in the past. I’ve had good relationships with them.
@@jollygoodvelo yes I would say so, I know very few people who have been so lucky. Those that I know that have good experiences/relationships are the keener cyclists that I know - who this video isn't really aimed for. I learnt by reading publications and guides like road cc and cycling weekly
Sad that many people have had similar experiences. You would have thought that as an independent business the local LBS would be a lot more friendly and approachable.
I’m not convinced there is a 30% energy savings using clipless pedals. I don’t use them and I have never felt at a disadvantage for not having them. I bought them 25 years ago and they’ve never been installed on a bike. They are still in my garage. I would like to see definitive research regarding the advantages of clipless pedals.
Some people just don’t get in with them . I personally would never go back to flats because I am in no doubt about the benefits of pulling up on the pedals, especially when climbing.
Fan of your channel. Keep up the greet work. At about the 8-minute point you remark that there’s a 30% power improvement from clipping in. I am a believer and do so myself. But could you perhaps point me to a reference that supports the claim that I could share with skeptics?
I have to admit that 30% was a figure I heard but I can’t remember it’s origin. I did a quick google search and the results are mixed. As far as I can see GCN disproved any benefits but I did find this article. www.mbr.co.uk/news/clipless-versus-flats-359866 It was performed in a Wattbike and the difference is not 30%. At the end of the day I use clipless and I most definitely feel a benefit when pulling up. I’ve not measured it, though.
Good explanations. 🙂 But I disagree in one point: "More cogs/gears give you a wider range of gear ratios." There are 11 speed cassettes (Shimano) or 12 speed cassettes (SRAM) that are just 11/10 to 28 while others of just 9 or 8 speeds (Shimano, Microshift) exist that offer 11 to 34. More gears mean smaller jumps between the gears, not necessarily a wider variety of ratios. Just food for thoughts. 😉
I have yet to have a great experience at an LBS. I always feel like staff are always trying to push certain road bike manufs that give the best margin. It’s not unlike at the car dealer. My biggest concern is to get an honest recommendation based on my prior cycling history, what my concerns are/have been especially as it relates to comfort vs speed, and be willing to work with me on bike fit. I’m willing to pay for the bike fit service as long as it goes toward a purchase but I have yet to visit one that considers fittings to be an essential part of their business.
I am in the market for a high-end gravel bike, I am doing the 'Rift' next year in Iceland. The problem is that most bike shops do not stock much and being tall, it is really Hobson's choice Online seems my only choice.
@@jollygoodvelo That is the problem. But no LBS will get one in for me to look at without a deposit. There is a trade show next month in Philadelphia, so I might have better luck there.
I would first go with friends who ride and check how it works on their bikes. Then I would go for second hand. After few months I would go (or no go) for new. And bike fit as first step? Never. You will only know what bothers you after few hundreds of mile ridden.
Great video... except your description of frame material is way off... Al is way stiffer than steel. Steel absorbs more road buzz than al. Also steel is way weaker per kg than al... which is why you can use less of it in a frame and it will have similar strength and less weight. Cheers
Wow, 30%, I got a entry level mountain bike done 1200 mile with not good suspension, changed forks to alloy and put road tyres on, road munching machine, 50 mile no prob, was thinking of building bike can afford about £200 a month on components, what's best part to start with, I thought hubs, spokes , wheels, or should I just save cash and but bike, like the giant fast road, another good one mate
Having done a recent build, you are better starting with something that is as close as possible to what you want. Throwing new parts at the wrong bike soon adds up to what you can buy new as components are less expensive to the manufacturer. Changing from flat bars to road bars can be expensive because the shift levers are now integrated with the brake levers. Tires will make a big difference with a MTB because width, design and weight vary greatly with intended use. The range of choices can be a bit overwhelming so some research is needed. It is a given that many people have different opinions. Two inexpensive upgrades are your saddle and a set of bar ends. Saddle choice is quite personal but when you find what works for you, it can move to the next bike. Bar ends allow for different hand positions for reduced fatigue on longer rides. Also, most MTBs come with very wide bars, adjusting is easy and depends on shoulder width. I am 185cm tall always cut mine to less than the 60cm plus that come with most bikes. For a drop bar, 46 to 48 is about right. Hope this is helpful. Just want to add my thanks to Leonard for his content. As an heavy rider, I am encouraged by your positive attitudes. I am never going to be the rider I was 20 years and 20kgs ago but it is almost more fun starting over and enjoying any day that I can go for a ride.
My local bike shop in hull only serves its regulars, been in four times in two years, last time I had a pocketful of cash, for new wheels, saddle, shoes and kit. I felt like Julia Roberts in pretty woman. Not even a hello from sales staff. I left empty handed and so it was back to the iPad and spent my money on line. Got Zipp 808 wheels for a great price. On yes one free tip for you. If your getting a new track pump get one with a booster tank, because you "will" be changing to tubeless tyres in the end.
That shop sounds very snooty. If they can’t be bothered to serve customers then they don’t deserve any. I used to live in Hull from 1993 to 97 and used to go to a very nice little bike shop near the bottom of Spring Bank.
Stuck between weather to buy a hybrid or a race bike. 177cm with 110kgs. Have had back pain before. Heart says road bike...mind says to go for a hybrid. Any suggestions where to start from?
I don't agree that clip pedals are for beginners. I'm a very uncoordinated American that is very experienced in bicycle riding. BUT... after a month of trying out clip pedals and falling over every time at stop lights and drivers pointing fingers and busting out laughing as I lay on the curb bleeding to death and not able to get up... "I've fallen and can't get up". Luckily I didn't break my hip. I finally gave up clip pedals. Well, I still ride with clip pedals, I just leave the clip in the pedal and wear regular sports shoes. So, if you are a beginner and like falling over when you come to a stop and enjoy people in cars making fun of you... by all means get clip pedals. If you are as uncoordinated as me... wait a few year(maybe 20 or so) to you get some experience dealing with the humiliations of busting your arse(UK speak there) before getting a set of clip pedals. Sure some of the people in the bicycle club will make fun of you by asking several times if you forgot your shoes. But then ask them "How many times have you fallen over and busted up your knee cap up??".... They will remain silent. I forgot to say Great video though... Thanks Leonard. I also noticed in the video of the strava rides and you had a ride in the video that was short just for me, because I so like short rides.
I would actually say flats are best for beginners for the reasons you say but I think some people might want to give them a go from day one. Depends on the person. Strange that you have never managed to get on with them.
@@jollygoodvelo Hey Leonard... As I have said, I'm the most uncoordinated person alive. Maybe one day I will try them again. But you are correct that there are more coordinated people out there and you shouldn't avoid clip pedals at all costs. Some beginners may be able to work them from day one, but it will be the rare person. Most people I've talked with make them work in about 2 weeks of trying. But, I'm not most people, thus gave them up in a month. Your mileage will vary.
I held off for quite a while until someone bought me a pair for my birthday one year. I was very nervous about it but after trying it and falling off once I was hooked; literally and figuratively.
@@jollygoodvelo Thanks Leonard. Maybe I'll grow a pair and try clipping in again. I already ride 25mph to 27mph average on flat ground, so I don't believe I'll gain any speed. But, thanks for the encouragement.
eBay, £200 for a £1300 bike. No brainer. Do your research online, get the right size, off you go. Once you're into cycling, then spend the money. A good time to buy is Jan/Feb, bad weather and unwanted Christmas presents flood the market, keeping prices down.
@@jollygoodvelo There's plenty of charts on the manufacturer's websites. Most people can get a decent bike just to start with, just with height and frame size. If it doesn't fit exactly, you can get it adjusted, or buy different parts, or, at £200, buy four other bikes. You can always sell it on for pretty much what you paid for it, and upgrade when you know what you're doing, or whether cycling is for you.
I fear you're gonna get some grief from the staunch advocates of which ever frame material they happen to be into. I'm now working my way through types of bike, just bought a Brompton for something different 😃
Sorry Leonard, but there is some really bad advice in this video. I'd never buy a bike based on the components it's fitted with. You could fit Di2 to a frame made out of scaffold poles and it will be the worst things you would ever throw your leg over. I have always bought bikes with the best frame you can afford. You can always upgrage the components at a later date when you wear them out. I still have my orginal Harry Quinn 531DB frame from 1980 fitted with Campag Chorus 10 speed.
That’s not what I am saying. The first thing I say is decide on a frame based on what you can afford and then buy a bike with the best components you can afford. I’ll have to watch it again in case it sounds like I am saying buy one based on the components alone.
After nearly 30 years of dedicated cycling I always walk into a cycle shop with confidence! confident I will spend more than intended.
Sadly that is true for many of us.
I have a vanquish with tiagra fitted on it, carbon forks, i love it but i know there are people who would look down on it, to me its just a bike and it gives me a lot of fun and fitness which are the best two reasons to cycle, whatever hobbies you do you will never keep up with the obsessive types who can't sleep unless they have the latest and best available . Great video.
It’s your bike and you love it. That’s all anyone needs to know. Enjoy.
Bought my first (new to me) road bike last weekend.
Giant Defy 3, love it.
Took it out for a ride, got to a hill and ground to a halt! Gearing is 12-23 on the rear cassette! useless for climbs.
Worth suggesting people check the gearing of a used bike they buy! haha
Took my Fuji Monterey in for service and started talking to the employee and ... I just bought one of their very lightly used Specialized XL bikes. It is elegant. Tomorrow I pick it up after changing out the tires for puncture-resistant and other accessories like front & back lights. Yes, tomorrow is my, "New Bike Day" Leonard. I enjoy your channel. Thank you very much sir. Charlie, Salem, MA
"Buying a bike should be an emotional decision..." I thought that was wrong when I heard it, but the more I think about it the more I realise how right you are. Great advice here, intelligent and clear. A brilliant video.
I've been cycling for over 50 years & am still learning. Your Bike fit tips have improved my ride. Bought a second hand cyclo-cross bike from a dealer earlier in the year. With road tyres and a slightly larger cassette I have a excellent bike for £200
Sounds like a bargain.
Love the channel but have to disagree with some things here. Steel is generally seen as being more comfortable than aluminium and some prefer it to carbon. Aluminium has a reputation for transmitting road buzz but is plenty stiff. Carbon can be both stiff and comfortable depending on the way it is layered and the lightest frames are carbon, not titanium.
The outer chainring is different on compact vs standard. The outer ring on a compact will have 50 teeth whereas a standard will have 53.
Being attached to your pedals is certainly an advantage, but it is not 30% more efficient, that claim was debunked long ago.
Thanks for the info. I think we all have a different experience. I’ve never found steel all that comfortable.
HI Leonard,, as you know I love the channel, but, there are many mis-conceptione in this video. As above, your frame material comments are incorrect as are several comments on chain rings and cassettes and as above clip less is about 15% more efficient , not the stated 30%.
The others all seem to have jumped all over you on the frame bit. I tend to agree with them; touring bikes are usually steel for a good reason. We are all heavily invested in the sport and so take it all to heart. However, for the average person getting into the sport they are looking at cheap. Cheap equals steel, for entry level. Cheap also means crap so well done in trying to steer them away from those ones. I have lots of friends with cheap bikes who don't ride them because they are crap bikes.
@captain pugwash , I couldn't agree more.
@captain pugwash Strangely I've had some cheap steel bikes and actually really liked the frames and the comfort level but of course the bikes themselves were fitted with poor components. High tensile steel gets a bad rap but if you are a heavy rider like myself it provides just the right amount of flex in my experience which brings me to my second point frames don't act the same for all weight people. What is a comfortable frame for a 60kg rider may be a horrible flexy frame for a 110kg rider and the same can be true for a horrible rigid steel frame for a 60kg rider but a super pleasant frame for a 110kg rider. It's easy to get brainwashed by reviews by people of low weight who mainly review bikes but clearly any structure like a bicycle frame will act differently for different loads, it would be pointless me taking on board a review of a rider half my weight on many frames. CF may not as much due to its properties and some 7005 aluminium frames are incredibly rigid whatever the weight of the rider but 6000 series aluminium, steel and titanium can feel different depending on rider weight. Any bicycle frame that does allow flexing in its design will have more flexing with heavier riders. This is clearly obvious to any engineer but its amazing how rarely this information is stated in the cycling media. One man's perfect frame is another mans horrible frame.
Why would anyone give this a thumbs down? Well done Leonard.
There will always be critics.
Ah! Nothing better then startingv a Friday with cup of coffee and Leonard's video. Bottoms up MAMILs. Keep pedaling my friend.
How about a cup of tea?
a “ must watch” video for anybody getting into cycling. my golfing buddies are joining me on the trails as they see how fit I have become.....they are in the process of shopping and getting educated....I forwarded this to them...they will appreciate it! good work!
Thanks Mark. I would call this a gateway film as many people want to get in to cycling but are a little intimidated.
leonardmlee yes....the choices are so many and intimidating....but the cost is really negligible as it is generally a one time hit and there is zero cost for each usage....compared to golf where there is club dues( which is huge) plus all of the monthly fees and equipment updates or being a fisherman and dealing with boat costs or skiing which requires lift passes, travel and hotel accommodations. A one time purchase of a few thousand dollars isn’t really a big deal...every time I go riding it FREE whereas my golf costs me $100 every time I tee it up or fishing is a few hundred bucks for a tank of gas.
A pleasant and concise presentation of a very helpful video on cycling.
Awesome topic. When I started bike commuting a couple of years ago, I started on a hybrid bike with skinny tires. It was fun to ride but the road to work isn't very smooth even though it's paved. I kept bending the rims. Now I ride a mountain bike with low roll resistance tires and a suspension fork in the front. I feel like I have the best commuter bike for me. The point is, it took me a while to settle in on the best bike.
Glad you have found the bike for you. Happy cycling.
@@jollygoodvelo Don't get me wrong. I still kind of want another one.
I am a strong believer that cycling and the comfort of cycling is down to the individual and that unfortunately there are some cycling snobs that say you should cycle and have your bike a certain way but it’s all down to Individual preference and to keep it fun 😉
Absolutely
my first serious bike was a Giant , Semi-Mountain , which I purchased in March 2013 , it was great to ride , with 27 gears all up , ( 9 on the cassette and 3 on the chain ring ) , in July 2013 I had 4 small heart attacks , spent a month in hospital , and after I was discharged , found I had little strength in my legs , so my local bike shop had the Giant upgraded to an E bike ( front wheel drive ) it was great , only problem was the Lithium battery was on the back and in reality the front was almost void of weight , making the bike susceptible to out of balance ( especially mounting driveways ) ; In 2017 I purchased a Quick E bike with center drive ( Yamaha ) great to ride and I still do especially on my long ride on Saturdays to Claremont and back ( Kingston ) about 80 km . ; in April this yr I purchased an Evanti Montari E Sport , ( Shimano E power , much more superior to Yamaha ) , which has 1 draw back the Battery power ( and that's using all of my , "Granny" Gears on the cassette ) , only last 60 km , the bike shop has ordered a new battery from Shimano , and hope this will be the answer !
P.S. Can I have Your Email address again as I have misplaced what was on one of Your Videos , or You can send me Your E mail address to ; dnebugg@gmail.com
Many thanks Leonard !
I work in one of those "LBS's". Actually, I'm the one selling bikes. And my first Question is where you want to ride. Then if you have considered a budged. And before I go into any detail I offer Test riding the chosen bicycle. A LBS has a big Difference to the I-Net : you are directly dealing with each other. In my case: often with the next Generation of Customers!
So: I like your Point of view. Keep up your good work. ( VERY nice Video Material BTW)
Very well put, you've managed to cut through alot of crap. Great info. for those that are likely to need it most. Thanks again.
Lee you really encourage me at my age and weight....I love riding uphill here in the highlands of Kenya.Welcome for a riding challenge
First bike should be a hybrid /city bike. Mountain bikes are too heavy and road bikes can be too light. As Goldilocks would say a hybrid bike is just right
I got a hybrid, now I want a road bike too, but which one??
If you have a little bit of experience, my choice would be a used touring bike. If you take this route choose carefully, but bear in mind things like tyres can be easily changed, and a different saddle to suit is no problem. From my point of view I like steel frames, for the comfortable ride, and I find 28mm tyres adequate for both urban and rural use whilst allowing reasonable speed. I don't bump up curbs, or do rough trails, but a good touring bike will do off-road as long as you are reasonable. Some form of dropped bars are fine for all day riding on the hoods, and yes I do have mudguards, as I see no point in getting myself and the bike dirty. A used Dawes galaxy is always a good choice but there are many other choices out there. No Lycra, but some running tights and top are useful. Go out every day and discover the Joy's and utility of the cycle.
Leonard, I really enjoy your advice and wonderful videos, just let me confess I struggled a los to get used to those clipless pedals...really suffered some very dumb falls hahahaha
February I am buying my First road bike. Have settled on a Ribble R872 with 105 groupset including disc brakes. Wife is getting me a garmin 820 computer for x-mas, she doesn't know that yet, and am going to run xt SPD pedals as I need to be able to walk in my shoes.
Enjoy you new bike when you get it!
Fantastic information and video
“or alooominuummmm for our american chums”. LOLOLOL. I’ll let slide this time. 🤣
I once had an American tell me that the British pronunciation of that word was the more accurate based on the actual name of the element in the periodic table.
@@jollygoodvelo The British pronunciation is certainly a prettier way of saying it, in my humble opinion. Thanks for thinking of us American chums! :)
Even as an American I find myself often saying it as "alu-min-nium"; thanks a lot, Jeremy Clarkson!
@@jollygoodvelo Ironically, it was originally named aliminum in 1808 by a British chemist.
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At 2:07 my allez orange specialized bike
If you're considering a hybrid / commute bike, consider Tannus (airless) tires. I've tried them out this year & they're amazing. Never need to be inflated & won't "puncture". Also guaranteed for 5,000 miles of wear.
Yes, I’ve also heard many people say similar things about them.
Great video thanks.
Great video on getting into cycling! 2 years i began with a Walmart bike (great learning experience). Then I bought a Trek domane AL2, which turned cycling into a hobby for me. From Nashbar, I got a great deal on a Fuji knock-off aluminum bike (Its called a Cavalo) before they were bought out, it has 105 groupset and loads of fun. Just recently purchased a Canyon Ultimate (Ultegra). ( I commented on this in another one of your videos) This turned out to be a treat as the result of losing 16kg in the last 4 months. So the Walmart bike has since been sold and I'm really enjoying the others I have considering I'm 6ft-5', 60yrs old. Ride on my friend!
I expect you’ll see a massive difference from the Walmart bikes.
Buying a new bike is exciting , I have 5 in my garage ( 2 of which I bought new )lol.
These are good basic tips which probably could of done with knowing before buying my first one lol.
Trouble is I never found a good bike shop which actually had any real knowledge and was prepared to fit the bike to me in any way shape or form, they allowed a short test ride around the car park which simply was not enough to judge if it was right for me.
Halfords is my only local bike shop now so that's pretty useless apart from they do allow extended test rides.
Evans will let you do test rides as long as you provide ID
The best thing to do is buy a cheap hybrid bike on Craig's list Then you can get enough experience with bikes so that you can then move up or not . I started this way and now have several bikes and one very expensive one that I cant do without
What a good video, thank you!
Another great video, best advice is to get a bike fit, however basic. As the most common mistake, is to buy a frame size too big (due to following manufacturers sizing chart) , my first bike I ended buying a second hand one, two sizes too big. On a road bike, If you are between sizes, always go down a size and raise the saddle height and add a longer stem. Frame materials are so good these days, that this is less important for comfort, if you are worried about comfort, use wider tyres with lower pressures, much more effective than any frame material.
That’s a great point about the tyre pressure.
Excellent video
In such a short space of time you covered this quite well. Not sure if its just TH-cam or how the world works nowadays to generate a debate about frames and chain rings!!! I could hear the adenoids squeaking as the facts came through!!!For me, I came to road cycling from MTB I did not fancy a road bike much but was badgered by some friends in the village so, a compromise was made I bought an Giant SLR fast road with flat bars and the rest being all road bike. I now have a number of Giant bikes from the Anyroad advanced to the Defy pro 0 and they all have different quirks which make them better than another on a given day.One poster added the myth that I hear and read a lot about the bike being fast!!!! No such thing as a fast bike only a good rider. put a crap rider on a top end bike they will still be a crap rider. a good rider on a crap bike will be a good rider the speed etc comes from the human. Now, we can waffle about aero and marginal gains but, I have done a good few Sportives and tests on my fast road and mullered guys on the top end bikes who pose around on them. I have never pushed my £1100 roadster up any climb but seen plenty of people on £8/9/plus grand bikes walking up hills and, can ride as fats or faster than most.If a bike shop tells you a ride is fast then leave the shop would be my advice. The only point I would have said in the video would be to have a bike fit first then buy a bike. too many people buy the bike then try and fit it to themselves after.ignore the snobbery that exists in the cycling world and don't fall for the guff. If you want to ride Sora then do so it will do equally as well as the top end stuff. Marketing shite and snobbery are the easy way to spend much more than you need and to forget why you want to ride in the first place For me, Giant will always get my cash because I don't see the need to spend £10 grand on a cycle when I can do everything required on a bike half the price or with some of mine much less than half.Oh and always buy disc brakesGood Vid
A bike fit first is definitely stage one to buying a bike. Not all frame geometries are the same so one particular bike may never fit.
Absolutely. not so essential on MTB or even some of the sit up and beg town bikes but, road bikes for sure.
I want a bike with 531 steel d/b tubing, 72 degree frame, J-shaped forks, a hub gear, to use with 28mm tyres, weighing about 12kg. They don't seem to be around any more. Nearly all new bikes have straight forks.
Hope you manage to find one.
I'm still a newbie but after my 1st flat instead of buying a bike computer, i bought a better mini pump, a couple of C02 cartridges, and swapped the tires for Continental's Gatorskins folding bead. The old tires I'll keep for turbo trainer😁. I guess my point being that i showed self control and bought tires and accessories critical to maintaining my Bike, vs a computer. As for my emotions, I'm ok with my decision....I think lol
That’s very restrained. Won’t be long before you buy the computer, though.
What I do when looking at bikes is feel how stiff and springy the bike is. The test I do is hold the bike by the end of the handle bar at arms length then place the crank facing me at the lowest point then I just put some side load onto that pedal and release the pressure from my foot. You can see and feel the bike and wheels move with the side load applied. The stiffer the bike the less movement. The problem with different materials, thicknesses, manufacture techniques and different design you just don't know from reading a spec sheet. What are you actually getting. With this test you can see and feel the stiffness and springiness of the bike. I think it's best to ride as many bikes you can with different geometries then decide for yourself what you like in a bike. After a few years of riding you will know what dimensions, geometry and material your dream bike will be. So the first one shouldn't be that expensive it's all learning and it's all personal preference in the end. Just get out there and have fun.
It's not all about frame material any more. The size and flexibility of your tires will make more of a difference in ride quality than the frame ever did.
My LBS recently closed due to the owner wanting to spend more time with his family so I'm down to buying bikes and gear at the local big box store ( Wal-Mart ). The closest two other shops are in the next county and a bit too snobby for my taste or in another state where I ride regularly. The second shop does more rentals and tends to put their new bike stock into service... Which means that new bike may not be so new. Thankfully I'm a wrench head so building my own from parts is a been there done that thing. Nice synopsis and great video!
I once bought a bike from Walmart. Not the best place to buy a bike but if you have no other choice...
Hi Leonard great vid I do have a carrera hybrid I’ve had this bike for 3 months and it is absolutely superb but recently I brought a road bike I have only used it once I’m very pleased with it but due to the weather I’m sticking with the hybrid plus the road bike needs a few tweaks 👍🏻
Hopefully when the weather plays ball you will enjoy your road bike.
Overall very good. But I have some quibbles.
Firstly, you don't have to stick with just one LBS. If you are lucky enough to have multiple bike shops local to you, check them out and compare. Different bike shops may focus on different types of riding or offer varying levels of service. Finding a shop that fits you can matter almost as much as a bike that fits you.
Secondly, this video is from a roadie perspective. If you are riding offroad, commuting, or distance touring then it's not merely a consideration of cost to weight savings but you also want to factor in durability, comfort, and/or cargo capacity into your buying decisions.
Thirdly, the two big debates are clips vs flats and rim brakes vs disc brakes. New buyers should look into why these are debated and figure which options are best for their own type of riding. Neither of these debates has a single correct answer, just better and worse answers for different types of riders.
It is indeed from a roadie perspective but that’s because it’s the cycling I know. I dot have any experience in the other types.
Fantastic tips thank you for taking the time make this video
Thanks Ian. I know many of you will know this stuff but its good to go back to basics now and then.
That is later in the day. Thank you for the comment/reply.
I think the steel frames absorb the shock and vibration better than aluminum - I love steel
Wish I had this when purchasing my first bike. It was still very helpful. Thank you.
Hopefully next time.
great thanks for info.
Glad to help.
You have a very high opinion of your LBS. I went into my 3 closest LBS and none of them were particularly keen in offering 'advice'. They were happy to 'sell' me something - but not to tailor it to my needs (above the basic 'what type of riding will you do?') - I still find all the LBS I have been into either as a. incompetent (halfords) or b. snobby.
I seem to be getting a lot of people saying similar things about their LBS. maybe I have been very lucky in the past. I’ve had good relationships with them.
@@jollygoodvelo yes I would say so, I know very few people who have been so lucky. Those that I know that have good experiences/relationships are the keener cyclists that I know - who this video isn't really aimed for. I learnt by reading publications and guides like road cc and cycling weekly
Sad that many people have had similar experiences. You would have thought that as an independent business the local LBS would be a lot more friendly and approachable.
I’m not convinced there is a 30% energy savings using clipless pedals. I don’t use them and I have never felt at a disadvantage for not having them. I bought them 25 years ago and they’ve never been installed on a bike. They are still in my garage. I would like to see definitive research regarding the advantages of clipless pedals.
Some people just don’t get in with them . I personally would never go back to flats because I am in no doubt about the benefits of pulling up on the pedals, especially when climbing.
Fan of your channel. Keep up the greet work. At about the 8-minute point you remark that there’s a 30% power improvement from clipping in. I am a believer and do so myself. But could you perhaps point me to a reference that supports the claim that I could share with skeptics?
I have to admit that 30% was a figure I heard but I can’t remember it’s origin. I did a quick google search and the results are mixed. As far as I can see GCN disproved any benefits but I did find this article. www.mbr.co.uk/news/clipless-versus-flats-359866
It was performed in a Wattbike and the difference is not 30%. At the end of the day I use clipless and I most definitely feel a benefit when pulling up. I’ve not measured it, though.
Good explanations. 🙂
But I disagree in one point: "More cogs/gears give you a wider range of gear ratios."
There are 11 speed cassettes (Shimano) or 12 speed cassettes (SRAM) that are just 11/10 to 28 while others of just 9 or 8 speeds (Shimano, Microshift) exist that offer 11 to 34.
More gears mean smaller jumps between the gears, not necessarily a wider variety of ratios.
Just food for thoughts. 😉
I see what you mean. The important thing is the smallest and largest cogs. It doesn’t really matter how many are in between.
I have yet to have a great experience at an LBS. I always feel like staff are always trying to push certain road bike manufs that give the best margin. It’s not unlike at the car dealer. My biggest concern is to get an honest recommendation based on my prior cycling history, what my concerns are/have been especially as it relates to comfort vs speed, and be willing to work with me on bike fit. I’m willing to pay for the bike fit service as long as it goes toward a purchase but I have yet to visit one that considers fittings to be an essential part of their business.
That’s a shame. I suppose there are good and bad bike shops.
I am in the market for a high-end gravel bike, I am doing the 'Rift' next year in Iceland. The problem is that most bike shops do not stock much and being tall, it is really Hobson's choice Online seems my only choice.
If it’s your only choice then it’s your only choice but what happens if you don’t like it?
@@jollygoodvelo That is the problem. But no LBS will get one in for me to look at without a deposit. There is a trade show next month in Philadelphia, so I might have better luck there.
Good luck.
I would first go with friends who ride and check how it works on their bikes. Then I would go for second hand. After few months I would go (or no go) for new. And bike fit as first step? Never. You will only know what bothers you after few hundreds of mile ridden.
Makes sense.
Great video... except your description of frame material is way off...
Al is way stiffer than steel. Steel absorbs more road buzz than al. Also steel is way weaker per kg than al... which is why you can use less of it in a frame and it will have similar strength and less weight.
Cheers
Wow, 30%, I got a entry level mountain bike done 1200 mile with not good suspension, changed forks to alloy and put road tyres on, road munching machine, 50 mile no prob, was thinking of building bike can afford about £200 a month on components, what's best part to start with, I thought hubs, spokes , wheels, or should I just save cash and but bike, like the giant fast road, another good one mate
Having done a recent build, you are better starting with something that is as close as possible to what you want. Throwing new parts at the wrong bike soon adds up to what you can buy new as components are less expensive to the manufacturer. Changing from flat bars to road bars can be expensive because the shift levers are now integrated with the brake levers. Tires will make a big difference with a MTB because width, design and weight vary greatly with intended use. The range of choices can be a bit overwhelming so some research is needed. It is a given that many people have different opinions. Two inexpensive upgrades are your saddle and a set of bar ends. Saddle choice is quite personal but when you find what works for you, it can move to the next bike. Bar ends allow for different hand positions for reduced fatigue on longer rides. Also, most MTBs come with very wide bars, adjusting is easy and depends on shoulder width. I am 185cm tall always cut mine to less than the 60cm plus that come with most bikes. For a drop bar, 46 to 48 is about right. Hope this is helpful.
Just want to add my thanks to Leonard for his content. As an heavy rider, I am encouraged by your positive attitudes. I am never going to be the rider I was 20 years and 20kgs ago but it is almost more fun starting over and enjoying any day that I can go for a ride.
My local bike shop in hull only serves its regulars, been in four times in two years, last time I had a pocketful of cash, for new wheels, saddle, shoes and kit. I felt like Julia Roberts in pretty woman. Not even a hello from sales staff. I left empty handed and so it was back to the iPad and spent my money on line. Got Zipp 808 wheels for a great price. On yes one free tip for you. If your getting a new track pump get one with a booster tank, because you "will" be changing to tubeless tyres in the end.
That shop sounds very snooty. If they can’t be bothered to serve customers then they don’t deserve any. I used to live in Hull from 1993 to 97 and used to go to a very nice little bike shop near the bottom of Spring Bank.
What type of camera do you use that gives you such smooth video while you're riding? And what type of attachment are you using to mount it?
I use a GoPro hero 6. It has some incredible internal image stabilisation.
Stuck between weather to buy a hybrid or a race bike. 177cm with 110kgs. Have had back pain before. Heart says road bike...mind says to go for a hybrid. Any suggestions where to start from?
How did it go? I'm in the same situation, road or hybrid.
I don't agree that clip pedals are for beginners. I'm a very uncoordinated American that is very experienced in bicycle riding. BUT... after a month of trying out clip pedals and falling over every time at stop lights and drivers pointing fingers and busting out laughing as I lay on the curb bleeding to death and not able to get up... "I've fallen and can't get up". Luckily I didn't break my hip. I finally gave up clip pedals. Well, I still ride with clip pedals, I just leave the clip in the pedal and wear regular sports shoes.
So, if you are a beginner and like falling over when you come to a stop and enjoy people in cars making fun of you... by all means get clip pedals. If you are as uncoordinated as me... wait a few year(maybe 20 or so) to you get some experience dealing with the humiliations of busting your arse(UK speak there) before getting a set of clip pedals. Sure some of the people in the bicycle club will make fun of you by asking several times if you forgot your shoes. But then ask them "How many times have you fallen over and busted up your knee cap up??".... They will remain silent.
I forgot to say Great video though... Thanks Leonard. I also noticed in the video of the strava rides and you had a ride in the video that was short just for me, because I so like short rides.
I would actually say flats are best for beginners for the reasons you say but I think some people might want to give them a go from day one. Depends on the person. Strange that you have never managed to get on with them.
@@jollygoodvelo Hey Leonard... As I have said, I'm the most uncoordinated person alive. Maybe one day I will try them again. But you are correct that there are more coordinated people out there and you shouldn't avoid clip pedals at all costs. Some beginners may be able to work them from day one, but it will be the rare person. Most people I've talked with make them work in about 2 weeks of trying. But, I'm not most people, thus gave them up in a month. Your mileage will vary.
I held off for quite a while until someone bought me a pair for my birthday one year. I was very nervous about it but after trying it and falling off once I was hooked; literally and figuratively.
@@jollygoodvelo Thanks Leonard. Maybe I'll grow a pair and try clipping in again. I already ride 25mph to 27mph average on flat ground, so I don't believe I'll gain any speed. But, thanks for the encouragement.
Ahh back in the day when your local bike shop actual had bikes for sale! Thanks, Covid.
You can still find the odd little shop here and there with new bikes but you really have to look.
I knew biking was for me when they said clipless pedals are the ones that have clips. I am very dyslexic.
I agree, it doesn’t really make sense.
Does weight of the bike even matter if you are a tubby? I wiegh 350lbs . Does it really make a diff difference?
Should I buy a new bike from a big box store or a used trek for the same price????
Tricky. It’s important that the bike fits you and you can’t do that easily from a big box store.
@@jollygoodvelo thank you
Forgot gravel😀
I also forgot hybrids, recumbents and unicycles. I have no experience of them, either.
Used bikes are a great value.
Absolutely
I thought you just went to a store and bought one!
You could certainly do that but you could potentially end up with a kid bike with stabilisers!
leonardmlee you left yourself open to that one in the title of the video. Just joking!
eBay, £200 for a £1300 bike. No brainer. Do your research online, get the right size, off you go. Once you're into cycling, then spend the money. A good time to buy is Jan/Feb, bad weather and unwanted Christmas presents flood the market, keeping prices down.
But when you find out that it doesn’t fit it’s a case of £1300 clever, £200 stupid.
@@jollygoodvelo There's plenty of charts on the manufacturer's websites. Most people can get a decent bike just to start with, just with height and frame size. If it doesn't fit exactly, you can get it adjusted, or buy different parts, or, at £200, buy four other bikes. You can always sell it on for pretty much what you paid for it, and upgrade when you know what you're doing, or whether cycling is for you.
I fear you're gonna get some grief from the staunch advocates of which ever frame material they happen to be into.
I'm now working my way through types of bike, just bought a Brompton for something different 😃
I’m getting all kinds of grief, not just because of frame materials!
I find your delivery a little slow and methodical - but your content and advice are excellent. Maybe just speed up your talking a bit?
I’m a slow and methodical person. Unfortunately that is the way I speak! Glad you like the content, though.
Sorry Leonard, but there is some really bad advice in this video. I'd never buy a bike based on the components it's fitted with. You could fit Di2 to a frame made out of scaffold poles and it will be the worst things you would ever throw your leg over. I have always bought bikes with the best frame you can afford. You can always upgrage the components at a later date when you wear them out. I still have my orginal Harry Quinn 531DB frame from 1980 fitted with Campag Chorus 10 speed.
That’s not what I am saying. The first thing I say is decide on a frame based on what you can afford and then buy a bike with the best components you can afford. I’ll have to watch it again in case it sounds like I am saying buy one based on the components alone.
The bikes nowadays have weight limits....making it difficult for big guys to buy nice and sporty cabon bikes etc.
They do indeed, although I’ve not really had any issues.
Thats why i bought a Travellbike (Koga Myata Worldtraveller) They are made for heavy weight and rough streets
I also own a Transport e-bike.
you need to lift your saddle up mate , you look as if your sitting on the back wheel & your knees will thank you for it
Thanks.
Flat pedals are more efficient. Can wear any shoes, no extra aligning, no creaky cleat bolts, you dont have to walk funny.
Online shopping is a great thing, but some things should never be bought there. A new bike is one of those, the fit is simply too personal.
Exactly
Mmmmm.......watching this makes me want another n+1 🤔 😂
I always want another bike.
Same here!
Now explain n+1 :)
It’s impossible to have too many bikes.
You even don’t need to spend a lot of money on a bike
Any bike will do.
@@jollygoodvelo that’s true
Let me find out cyclists around me shave their legs. I'm not taking it easy on em. Them little hairs aint slowing you down, that pound cake is.