Be still my heart, Lyle. You are doing a potentially wonderful old Fender true justice, by giving it all the love & attention it deserves. I disable that volume boost and fix the reverb driver cathode R back to BF specs. Sometimes I hook that volume boost switch up to a relay that changes the tone stack to one that can give Marshallish frequency response curves.
30 VDC on the cloth! Wow. That's an eye opener. I'm currently troubleshooting a reverb issue on my '64 SR and am starting to run out of ideas. I will check that next.
i have a 66 super reverb with kendrick black frames , they sound fine to me . the guys at wgs said those are good speakers , ive had them in that amp since the 90's . the wgs g10c is a great speaker but they're 7 lb x 4 , thats pretty heavy. if i ever replace the kendricks with the g10c that amp would weigh probably over 80 lb
Congratulations for the video! I will be changing the original power cable in my 64'... its looking bad... since it originally do not have a ground, with the new one do I need to solder the ground cable directly to the chassis right? Thank for the advice and congratulations again!
Either to chassis or drill for a 6-32 screw and use a machine screw, ground lug, compression washer, regular washer, and keps or nylock nut. You'll also want to disconnect the cap attached to the ground switch.
Hello! I have a 1965 Vibrolux and the wires that come from pin 2 and 7 from v2 to the Vibrato channel inputs are very noisy when touched. should I replace them? if so, what wire will you recommend? and what gauge? Thank you for the video!
Is it normal for a faint orange glow to remain near the setter tip of the power tubes after the amp has been powered off? The glow still remains for a while after the amp has been unplugged. The amp is a 1967 Fender Blackface Super Reverb. 🤷🏻♂️🙂
The owner wanted a tighter low end and I didn't want to change out the good original coupling caps. As the mix resistors needed to be changed anyway, that was an easy way to shave off some excessive low end. As the channels aren't used simultaneously this was a non-intrusive change.
Can you explain what about the 1” voice coil doesn’t last in Super reverbs? My main amp is a 1968 Super Reverb AB763 circuit. I took out 2 of the original Oxford 10L6 speakers that we’re getting a bit flubby sounding & replaced them with 2 damn near NOS 1964 Jensen C10Q’s as an experiment ….and it ended up sounding incredible! I’m pretty sure the C10Q has a one inch voice coil and now you have me concerned something is gonna break. I know they’re only rated @15 watts and they break up a bit earlier (& have a nicer sounding breakup) with a great rock sound that actually comes across sounding louder than the 2 remaining Oxfords. It’s sounds like 60/40 Jensen/ Oxford mix. Again I love this speaker combination and would be sad if I ruined the Jensen’s. Please let me know your thoughts ? P. S. I do have two more of the exact same Jensen’s, so I could install the other 2 if running a matched set of 4 would be better for my amp or the speakers.
Hi, I have a problem with my fender super Reverb amp by mistake I tried to turn it on at 220volt, and then when the on off switch is turned on it looks like everything work OK, but when I turn the standby switch on, it burns the fuse every time...do you have any idea what's going wrong? Thanks! Greetings from greece
Two reasons. First, two resistors can give a better balance than the transformer winds (this isn't always important). Two, and this is crucial - if there is a heater short to ground or to B+ a physical center tap can burn the transformer before the mains fuse blows. But 1/2W resistors will also serve as fuses, so if there's a short a resistor will burn open, stopping the short. As transformers cost a lot more than 1/2W resistors...
My 66 Super reverb volume/ power drops considerably, after extended playing. In the past, a slap on the top of the amp would clear the problem. But recently, that doesn't clear the problem anymore. So now the amp sounds weak.
While I cannot diagnose remotely, if a client brought in a Fender with that description, I'd be looking for disconnected grounds (the wires pull out of the solder joints at the brass strip when the board flexes), resistor leads pulling out of eyelets, bad solder joints at the tube socket pins, and of course a faulty tube. When a Super Reverb first comes in I usually test the Normal channel as it only needs V1 and V6 to work. Much smaller haystack to start with. That lets me know if the output section is working properly.
Absolutely. I do that from time to time, need to put some of them up here on TH-cam. Trying to pay more attention to this channel. It's hard to balance the work and the social media stuff. Anyway, email me at info@psionicaudio.com and we can discuss. Thanks!
Be still my heart, Lyle. You are doing a potentially wonderful old Fender true justice, by giving it all the love & attention it deserves. I disable that volume boost and fix the reverb driver cathode R back to BF specs. Sometimes I hook that volume boost switch up to a relay that changes the tone stack to one that can give Marshallish frequency response curves.
The tips in this video are amazingly good. Lots of information on repair that I haven't heard anywhere else!
Lots of good vintage Fender tips in this one!! Right on!
Thanks for the reverb tips.
LOVE the way you handled the filter cap board. Wow. You really earned your dough in cleaning out that spilled beer (let's be realistic, what?).
30 VDC on the cloth! Wow. That's an eye opener. I'm currently troubleshooting a reverb issue on my '64 SR and am starting to run out of ideas. I will check that next.
i wish i was friends with you. so much to learn...
i have a 66 super reverb with kendrick black frames , they sound fine to me . the guys at wgs said those are good speakers , ive had them in that amp since the 90's . the wgs g10c is a great speaker but they're 7 lb x 4 , thats pretty heavy. if i ever replace the kendricks with the g10c that amp would weigh probably over 80 lb
Thanks for the great video! Would you mind sharing the Heyco part number you're using for the strain relief? Looks great!
Thanks! Mouser 836-M3207
@@PsionicAudio Thank you, much appreciated!
Hi, beautiful work! Can you share what exactly that bias supply cap is? Can't quite make it out.
Thanks! Vishay 47uf 100V.
Thanks!
Hello! Can make a video on how to remove the death cap and install a 3 prong cable? Thanks in Advance!
Very Nice job, I shot you an email had some questions for my 66.
Thanks for the email reposes and advice. All the electronics are done. Taking a break I’ve gone blind looking at it.
Congratulations for the video! I will be changing the original power cable in my 64'... its looking bad... since it originally do not have a ground, with the new one do I need to solder the ground cable directly to the chassis right? Thank for the advice and congratulations again!
Either to chassis or drill for a 6-32 screw and use a machine screw, ground lug, compression washer, regular washer, and keps or nylock nut. You'll also want to disconnect the cap attached to the ground switch.
@@PsionicAudio Thank you!
Beautiful work, why is it that vintage fenders have a ton of real estate to work on and the early 60's Ampegs are like building a ship in a bottle...
Because Leo Fender was repair technician first.
Hello! I have a 1965 Vibrolux and the wires that come from pin 2 and 7 from v2 to the Vibrato channel inputs are very noisy when touched. should I replace them? if so, what wire will you recommend? and what gauge? Thank you for the video!
Is it normal for a faint orange glow to remain near the setter tip of the power tubes after the amp has been powered off? The glow still remains for a while after the amp has been unplugged. The amp is a 1967 Fender Blackface Super Reverb. 🤷🏻♂️🙂
What do you use to clean the input Jacks?
I noticed that you used 100k Channel Mix resistor instead of the factory 220k. any reason for this?
The owner wanted a tighter low end and I didn't want to change out the good original coupling caps. As the mix resistors needed to be changed anyway, that was an easy way to shave off some excessive low end. As the channels aren't used simultaneously this was a non-intrusive change.
Can you recommend a silicone for the filter capacitors?
Non-reactive RTV.
Can you explain what about the 1” voice coil doesn’t last in Super reverbs? My main amp is a 1968 Super Reverb AB763 circuit. I took out 2 of the original Oxford 10L6 speakers that we’re getting a bit flubby sounding & replaced them with 2 damn near NOS 1964 Jensen C10Q’s as an experiment ….and it ended up sounding incredible! I’m pretty sure the C10Q has a one inch voice coil and now you have me concerned something is gonna break. I know they’re only rated @15 watts and they break up a bit earlier (& have a nicer sounding breakup) with a great rock sound that actually comes across sounding louder than the 2 remaining Oxfords. It’s sounds like 60/40 Jensen/ Oxford mix. Again I love this speaker combination and would be sad if I ruined the Jensen’s. Please let me know your thoughts ? P. S. I do have two more of the exact same Jensen’s, so I could install the other 2 if running a matched set of 4 would be better for my amp or the speakers.
My speaker guy (who lives and breathes these things) says the 1" voice coils overheat in a Super Reverb.
Thanks for replying Lyle
Hi, I have a problem with my fender super Reverb amp by mistake I tried to turn it on at 220volt, and then when the on off switch is turned on it looks like everything work OK, but when I turn the standby switch on, it burns the fuse every time...do you have any idea what's going wrong? Thanks! Greetings from greece
Many things could go wrong if you powered it with 220VAC. Take it to a tech.
Any reason to prefer the artificial heater center tap to the actual transformer center tap?
Two reasons. First, two resistors can give a better balance than the transformer winds (this isn't always important). Two, and this is crucial - if there is a heater short to ground or to B+ a physical center tap can burn the transformer before the mains fuse blows. But 1/2W resistors will also serve as fuses, so if there's a short a resistor will burn open, stopping the short. As transformers cost a lot more than 1/2W resistors...
My 66 Super reverb volume/ power drops considerably, after extended playing. In the past, a slap on the top of the amp would clear the problem. But recently, that doesn't clear the problem anymore. So now the amp sounds weak.
While I cannot diagnose remotely, if a client brought in a Fender with that description, I'd be looking for disconnected grounds (the wires pull out of the solder joints at the brass strip when the board flexes), resistor leads pulling out of eyelets, bad solder joints at the tube socket pins, and of course a faulty tube. When a Super Reverb first comes in I usually test the Normal channel as it only needs V1 and V6 to work. Much smaller haystack to start with. That lets me know if the output section is working properly.
I'll probably check the tubes first, then proceed to the rest, if needed. I appreciate the advice.
Are you willing to build a custom order amp?
Absolutely. I do that from time to time, need to put some of them up here on TH-cam. Trying to pay more attention to this channel. It's hard to balance the work and the social media stuff.
Anyway, email me at info@psionicaudio.com and we can discuss. Thanks!
@@PsionicAudio thanks. I'm thinking of a Custom Vibrolux style with 2- 10s
@@PsionicAudio Thanks for being!❤️
More proof that cbs made fender worse lol