Servicing A Cannondale Headshok Bike Fork - With Strip & Refit - Retfurb Vintage Refurb
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2023
- In this video we show how to service & refurbish the main roller bearings on a set of Cannondale Headshok suspension mountain bike forks.
We show the process involved in stripping the fork down, cleaning, Re-greasing and re-assembling the components. Along with the tools we used to do this.
These are an early Cannondale Fatty type fork, Which I believe are Fatty 50 with 50mm travel. They are a bit of a Frankenstein of parts, as they have a DD50 oil cartridge & a spring/elastomer conversion inside.
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The Cannondale Headshok was first introduced in 1992. Personally, I think it is a great design. It was made to have less flex than normal suspension forks on the market.
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About Retfurb.
On the channel we will be looking at all things Retro, Vintage & collectable. Along the way we will be carrying out various tasks including; refurbishments, servicing, strip downs and much more. We aim to bring out new videos at least once a week, But will aim to release new videos more regularly.
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Retfurb
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Warning
All of our videos are intended for entertainment purposes only.
Any tasks we show on our videos, should be carried out by qualified persons only. All of the repairs, refurbs, modifications, etc can be hazardous to health. We ensure all safety precautions are carried out first, Before attempting any repairs.
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Great video - encourages me to attempt the job myself. Can’t find any specialists in Ireland willing to undertake the job. Thanks.
Thank you for the kind words, It really is appreciated. Also glad it helps people to have a go themselves. To be honest the hardest part is having the correct tools to undo the parts. If you are someone who dabbles in DIY, I would definitely give it a go. Please let me know if I can help any further. 👍
Buy the castle tool with the flat black bar welded to the castle nut, you can pull every damper from any headshot I know of,except for the older DD2 which you can pull with the park tool and possibly the old Marzocchi one piece air oil cartridges, also always wrap the metal rod with some clear gorilla tape so you can avoid the chance of scraping it an trashing your damper.
Thanks for the comment. Its always good to add additional information to the video and as you say recommended to get the correct tooling 👍
Thanks, followed your vid, took me three try’s too after a perfect first try (with the imperfect exception of forgetting the bottom lock ring/nut), doh 😣! Couple take aways: have plenty of rubber bands on hand. Also have patience and go slow, if the bearing cages stop on you, DO NOT Force them, the plastic can and will break. If you feel them locking up and/or not aligning correctly take a deep breath and start over, make sure all your races are in the right positions as well. Excellent guide for all you DIY Headshok’rz!
I own Marzocchi air oil cardridge. The rod is made of aluminum. There is no oil pressure around there. Scratches around this rod are not that important in my opinion. I have fully disassembled the Marzocchi shock. The oil stays in between the air piston and a second piston inside the shock. Which is important is not to scratch the outer casing's interiors since o-rings operate on that surface. Luckily the metal is hard (not aluminum) and is difficult to get scratched. If you do so you can polish it with metal polish paste or 2000 grid or higher abrasive paper (I have had CNC machined one air chamber and polished the interiors by doing so. No leaks since 6 months).
Thanks for sharing your experience and walking through the process. Would lefty Solo DL50 headshock follow the same procedure?
No problem at all, thank you for your kind comment.
To be honest I have not done a lefty form yet, but I think they follow a similar procedure.
Nice video explaining how the headshok works. Do you know if it is possible to find new bearing races?
Thank you for the kind comments. I think they are available, But as far as I know there is various types. I have seen some on ebay recently, But would have to check compatibility.
Hello! Thank you for the video - it makes me confident, that i can make it too :-)) i have to do it - my cannondale is 17 years old.....one question: is it possible to remove the lower bearing from the head tube without disassembling everything?
Thanks for the kind comments.
I am glad that it will help you.
You could try to tap it off, Without stripping. Although there is very little face area of the bearing showing, So would be difficult without damaging.
I think at the very least, you would have to undo the lower locknut ring.
thx for your answer....and greetings from Vienna, Austria :-) @@retfurb
No problem. Always happy to help where I can. Thanks for the support👍@@TheFilmisch
I like that spring upgrade , where do I procure that?
The spring was already fitted to the fork, When I purchased it. It appears to be cut down, From another headshok type.
Question: Do you know how to set Preload on a DD60? Thanks for your video.
Thank you for the kind comment, it’s appreciated.
I haven’t done it myself, but isn’t it controlled by the oil inside the damper?
Ahh Yes exactly, thanks for your help! Check out this manual I found online. Page 5. www.eighty-aid.com/sites/default/files/1999_headshok_super_fatty_m_pbone_m_owners_manual_supplement_en_0.pdf @@retfurb
II would love to know what all the tools are that we need especially the specialty tool that you mentioned we would need. you never said what tool that was.
Yes, Sorry I should have added to the description.
You need the special castle type tool and a pin wrench tool. I will try to find the links and add to the description.
@@retfurb
Hi, great video. I have a super fatty and it was working great until I took it in for a service. they did something to it in the shop and now it has a very bad "clunk" when it rebounds. its basically unrideable now. they of course denied doing this. Any idea what causes the clunk?
Thank you. I appreciate the kind comment.
It is hard to know, without physically looking at it.
It could be the flat bearings not seated properly. But I would have thought they would not go back together, if any were out of alignment.
Possible issue with the damper inside?
My Marzocchi air/oil shock too had done that clunks when rebounding. Mine was because of lack of oil in the damper. When I serviced the o-rings and filled it with fork oil fully, that clunks had gone.
@@OsmanKErol excellent
You mentioned a second special tool that would work better than the pliers. What is it called?
I think it is called a cannondale headshok castle tool.
Greetings. Would a Cannondale DD60 fit on my Cannondale F700 from the 90's ? Thanks and thank you for this video.
Hello, Yes it should do. What year is the F700? Most of the MTB headshoks are interchangeable.
@@retfurb Thank you ! I have an HE. So the code year list says its a may 1996 bike. I will try to get a DD60 .
@@retfurb H = 1996. E = may
@@betocapano9515 Yes, You shouldn't have any issues.
@@retfurb I own one with Marzocchi one piece shock. I needed to manufacture an air chamber and some distance rings to accomodate a newer model shock (similar to one in your video). I have manufactured the tools required for the Marzocchi shock and it is fully serviceable now. It has only two o -rings to be serviced that is. Anyway for one who hasn't got mechanic skills, I can say that Marzocchi headshoks are not plug and play interchangeable with the newer ones
What size SPA-1 do we need for this- 2.9mm or 2 1/3mm?
To be honest, I didn't realise they did different sizes. I thought it was just the SPA-1 tool.
@@retfurb thanks! I measured it with a tape measure I had and the hole size was closer to 2.9mm than 2 1/3mm so that's what I ordered and it worked.
@@ValerieAnderson Ah, Brilliant. Thanks fore the additional info, As I didn't realise there was a difference. I apologise for the delay in getting back to you initially, The message did not flag up.
How much air pressure goes back in to the air canister
These do not have the air type inners.
You should be able to find the manual online, for the type of headshok you are working on.
Most shocks work on rider weight, for how much pressure they require.
It depends on the rider's weight. I'm 75 kgs and apply 110 to 120 PSI of air pressure. I prefer a pressure level just above the one that the shock starts to compress under your riding weight. When riding flat the excess of pressure acts like locking the shock however when you hit something then the shock absorbs it.
It’s very complicated, never another cannonball
It is a design with a fair few parts involved. However, I do think it is a clever design type.
@@retfurb It is a masterpiece :)
@@OsmanKErol agreed.
Hi, will this work on a Cannondale F600?
Hello, As far as I am aware, they all follow the basic set up on the needle bearings. The cartridges inside are different on certain models, But overall it will be similarly set up. Parts can be difficult to find, as the bearings come in different thickness from when I looked them up.