Would definitely insulate the bathroom and use 5/8 sheetrock on both sides. It make a huge difference with noise when the shower is in use and the added privacy is nice being in the main living space.
Thank you for making this video. I am replacing a small amount of the old plumbing for my bath and shower. The shower head had a regular 90 degree elbow (not a drop ear elbow). It looks like the drop-ear has a couple of holes for wood screws so that the elbow can be attached to the framing. My old shower/bath has no framing up at the top, and there was nothing holding the shower-head in place except for the pipe. I have no wood framing, and the elbows and pipes have no clamps to hold them onto anything. I suppose my first order of business should be to put in some wood framing.
A lot of nice work done there! A few things that need to be fixed though with the washroom to be code. The trap arm for the sink is too long for the diameter pipe for 1.5" pipe, the length has to be 6" or less. And the direction can't change more than 130 degrees. There also either needs to be a window or a vent fan that can handle the volume of air in the bathroom.
Awesome video as always Kordare. The Guest bathroom is coming along awesomely can't wait to see what you've got in store for the outdoor entertainment area.
Some states in usa goes irc plumbing codes , some others Upc codes. By upc codes that 1 1/2"trap arm for the vanity can not be extended more than 42" from the vent tee and also you can't use more than 90 degrees, otherwise you need to install a cleanout
All in all a pretty good job. The only thing I see that is wrong is your first tee on the cold side should be 3/4x1/2x1/2. The tee that you used to connect to your system on the cold side should be 3//4x3/4x3/4 (3/4” Tee). Good job, though.
1-1/2" drain for a lav can only go a maximum of 6 ft before connecting to the vent.. I believe your lav is too far away from the vent and is basically unvented. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 135 degrees change of direction on that pipe before connecting it to the vent.. you exceeded that with 2 90 degree elbows. An air admittance valve behind the wall above flood level with a sanitary tee instead of a 90 degree elbow could have possibly been a fix depending on your local building codes.
No problem, you can increase the pipe size to give yourself longer distance before the vent connects. 2" pipe can go 8' and 3" can go 12' but that's obviously crazy for a sink drain. An AAV is definitely the easiest fix here.
@Tom-y1j possibly, but it's based off pipe diameter and slope. So it's not just a made up number. A 2" pipe can't fall more than 2" overall before reaching a vent. 2" ÷ 0.25" per foot is 8'. In most jurisdictions, that would probably be fine. Of course you're better off tying in the vent close to fixture anyway. Is there anything helpful you can say, or are you just being a troll? The same way you say it wouldn't be allowed there, I can easily find many places where that would work. Also, what isn't allowed? Increasing pipe size to increase your distance before venting? That's a pretty universal solution that would work anywhere.
Another great video, the rubber couplings are called ferncos. Did you drop your sink drain a 1/4 " per foot ? Nice work on the tub drain that was cool.
Do you have some sort of manifold somewhere in order to shut off water to select sections? Might have been nice to stuff one in the wall space near there and have an access panel.
Fantastic job. Great diy project. I didn't see a p trap on the tub but assuming it was down there from the rough in process. Those white main lines...are they pex A or B? You may have mixed them and they will leak soon.
Thanks! From everything I could tell they were the same version I used, since everything fit in the exact same manner on the fittings and I checked all crimp connections with the gauge.
@@Kordarebrother please hear me. That's PEX A that you crimped to pex B. Please Google the difference. You cannot do that your line is going to blow off randomly and destroy that entire bathroom
i noticed a clean out cap by the bottom plate on the wall where the vent stack is. Will you be placing an access door for that on other side of that wall.
I see only half inch lines ( hot and cold ) in my basement . If I take a water supply from half inch lines for the basement bathroom and kitchen , is there any water pressure issue ?
Not sure if there is a "fart fan" in there might want to consider it to reduce humidity in the bathroom, as far as your sink drain you essentially created a wet vent for your tub and im not sure but I hope there's a p trap in the ground for the tub drain . You used a nice copper stubout for your toilet but not the lavatory? Anyhow overall good clean work
Yes I installed a vent fan in here. I installed a check valve vent under the sink, and yes there is a p trap under the concrete for the tub. Used copper for the toilet because it is left exposed, more prone to potential sunlight or getting hit. Thanks!
Using pex for the tub spout connection will restrict this line due to its smaller inner diameter and often will cause a drip from the shower head while the tub is being run. Should be run in copper.
@@wrenchboostboi8994 that’s actually not true. Both pex a and pex b have fittings that insert into the pipe which restrict the flow. Copper fittings go over the pipe for example and do not restrict flow.
@@i.bleed.green.2081naaw it is true… pex B fittings are much smaller due to the fact of having to fit into the inside diameter of the pex pipe, minus the width of the fitting walls as well. This makes a pexB fitting restrict flow by about 1/3 the normal rate. Pex A fittings are made so the fitting fits exact to the inside diameter of the pipe, so all that you lose is the fittings wall width - which would restrict flow by a much lesser extent. A pexB fitting would literally fit inside a pexA fitting… the size difference is not negligible.
@@wrenchboostboi8994 I’ve personally installed pex A on a tub spout and had the result in speaking of. There might be a difference in diameter but it still causes an issue. That’s why everyone, including the video maker, goes another direction.
I never said up or down. I said the valve directs the water. (valve: a device for controlling the passage of fluid or air through a pipe, duct, etc., especially an automatic device allowing movement in one direction only.) I understand how the diverter works. My question was, why did you use 3/4" pipe from the valve to the tub spout instead of 1/2" pipe? Your answer was that if you don't use 3/4" pipe (If you don't do that) from the valve to the tub spout it will come out of the shower head? @@Kordare
You wrote something like... "I cannot wait for the season finale: The First Flush". This video was make for people who are doing a bathroom re-model or putting in a new bathroom. The video is not meant for entertainment really; it's an educational video or instructional video. It's not really meant to be fun to watch, just informational.
Personally where the toilet will be I would have the double sink vanities instead and where the sink is going to be at I would have the toilet Just more privacy
I love those PEX lines, it makes it so much faster & easier!
They were great to work with 🙌
Would it be better to insulate those hot water lines even if they are pex?
Would definitely insulate the bathroom and use 5/8 sheetrock on both sides. It make a huge difference with noise when the shower is in use and the added privacy is nice being in the main living space.
Thank you for making this video. I am replacing a small amount of the old plumbing for my bath and shower. The shower head had a regular 90 degree elbow (not a drop ear elbow). It looks like the drop-ear has a couple of holes for wood screws so that the elbow can be attached to the framing. My old shower/bath has no framing up at the top, and there was nothing holding the shower-head in place except for the pipe. I have no wood framing, and the elbows and pipes have no clamps to hold them onto anything. I suppose my first order of business should be to put in some wood framing.
Yeah that would be a good idea
The progress is impressive. Instructional video, as always!
Also, I love that you keep safety in mind (knees, eyes, ears).
Thanks! I try my best 🤘
A lot of nice work done there! A few things that need to be fixed though with the washroom to be code. The trap arm for the sink is too long for the diameter pipe for 1.5" pipe, the length has to be 6" or less. And the direction can't change more than 130 degrees.
There also either needs to be a window or a vent fan that can handle the volume of air in the bathroom.
I installed a check valve vent under the sink which is okay in my state. And yeah I installed a vent fan above the shower. Thanks!
Awesome video as always Kordare. The Guest bathroom is coming along awesomely can't wait to see what you've got in store for the outdoor entertainment area.
Thanks a lot 🤘🤘
Kordare, your content is excellent! You’re super knowledgeable about everything. Please keep it coming.
I appreciate that, more to come 🤘
Some states in usa goes irc plumbing codes , some others Upc codes.
By upc codes that 1 1/2"trap arm for the vanity can not be extended more than 42" from the vent tee and also you can't use more than 90 degrees, otherwise you need to install a cleanout
I also installed a check valve vent under the sink which is legal when further than 6ft from the vent in my area.
@@Kordare You dont have a clean-out though.
All in all a pretty good job. The only thing I see that is wrong is your first tee on the cold side should be 3/4x1/2x1/2. The tee that you used to connect to your system on the cold side should be 3//4x3/4x3/4 (3/4” Tee). Good job, though.
1-1/2" drain for a lav can only go a maximum of 6 ft before connecting to the vent.. I believe your lav is too far away from the vent and is basically unvented. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 135 degrees change of direction on that pipe before connecting it to the vent.. you exceeded that with 2 90 degree elbows. An air admittance valve behind the wall above flood level with a sanitary tee instead of a 90 degree elbow could have possibly been a fix depending on your local building codes.
Yes, it's not included in this video, but I used an AAV, which is allowed in my area. I appreciate the input!
No problem, you can increase the pipe size to give yourself longer distance before the vent connects. 2" pipe can go 8' and 3" can go 12' but that's obviously crazy for a sink drain. An AAV is definitely the easiest fix here.
@@Gerard1to you do realize different jurisdictions have different codes, right? None of that would pass where I live.
@Tom-y1j possibly, but it's based off pipe diameter and slope. So it's not just a made up number. A 2" pipe can't fall more than 2" overall before reaching a vent. 2" ÷ 0.25" per foot is 8'. In most jurisdictions, that would probably be fine. Of course you're better off tying in the vent close to fixture anyway. Is there anything helpful you can say, or are you just being a troll? The same way you say it wouldn't be allowed there, I can easily find many places where that would work. Also, what isn't allowed? Increasing pipe size to increase your distance before venting? That's a pretty universal solution that would work anywhere.
He mentions AAV in the video 😂
TY so much for lining the text on the PVC. It makes a rough in look so much cleaner.
Haha I didn't even remember doing that 😂
Upside down though ☹️ letters out and legible is a requirement from inspectors by me
Nice work! 👍I personally prefer the pinch clamps, no gauge required, my Ryobi crimper gives me a green light, more idiot proof. 😂
Haha thanks. I personally would worry more about those over the long run, but I'm no plumber😂
Do you not need a trap/u-bend between the bath sewer connection and the bottom of the bath? What stops sewage smells coming back up?
Yes, there is already one below the slab 👍
Can't wait to see the whole room finished.
Coming soon 🙌
Pex A feed to Pex B line ?
No tub ledger, 2x4 under the long side to support the tub and keep tile from separating from tub lip
The tub is steel and screwed directly to the studs. I followed the manufacturer instructions.
Put a vent grate In the closet at the bottom of the tub. Can make a great hiding spot
🤔🤔
Badass... love the content. Everything from cars to home diy! Keep up the great work
Thanks a lot!
Brother did you crimp PEX-A to PEX-B with the same crimp tool...?
From everything I researched and checked, nothing told me this was pex A. All dimensions checked out along with the go-nogo gauge.
Pex-A is compatible with Pex-B fittings, the other way around doesn't work though.
Doing this exact thing today, you’re process is exactly what I needed to see thank you
Glad I could help, good luck!
Found your this vid pretty useful as i hv exactly similar washroom in my basement. In fact got the same 3side wall on tub from home depot too👍
Glad I could help 🤘
Nice work. Cant wait to see the 1st poop video!
😂😂
Another great video, the rubber couplings are called ferncos. Did you drop your sink drain a 1/4 " per foot ? Nice work on the tub drain that was cool.
Thanks a lot and yes I dropped it 1/4" per foot.
Nice work on the tub drain and overflow.
Thank you!
Do you have some sort of manifold somewhere in order to shut off water to select sections? Might have been nice to stuff one in the wall space near there and have an access panel.
I have a few valves at my pressure tank/ water heater. So I can shut off just living space or garage.
Bro!!! Yo frame-game Krazy!!!!❤😊😂,🔥🔥🔥💯👏
Thank you!
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for checking it out 🤘
love the place your building
Thanks a lot!
Fantastic job. Great diy project. I didn't see a p trap on the tub but assuming it was down there from the rough in process. Those white main lines...are they pex A or B? You may have mixed them and they will leak soon.
Thanks! From everything I could tell they were the same version I used, since everything fit in the exact same manner on the fittings and I checked all crimp connections with the gauge.
@@Kordarebrother please hear me. That's PEX A that you crimped to pex B. Please Google the difference. You cannot do that your line is going to blow off randomly and destroy that entire bathroom
The gap is normal for pocket doors in case the header ever sags so the door doesn’t get stuck.
It wasn't possible to attach it with how big the gap was
you having good luck with those clamp rings? I have the different style i was planning on using but have heard i shouldnt
From my research these are the safest way to go vs the other clamping rings. I've had no issues with these.
Hows it being vented?? Is the trap under the floor??
The tub trap is under the floor. The sink has an AAV in the vanity.
i noticed a clean out cap by the bottom plate on the wall where the vent stack is. Will you be placing an access door for that on other side of that wall.
I haven't yet but always could. It was sitting behind drywall on the previous setup as well
Is the plan still to make the “attic” the master later on?
Yes!
Good video
Thanks!
Awesome. 😃😃😃
Was there a P trap that was roughed in for the tube/shower? If not, you’ll be getting sewer smell coming from the tube drain.
Yes of course there was a p trap under the slab. I had pictures of when it was built but also made sure. Yeah that would smell horrible 😂
It's an aav or student vent. It has a check in it . Good work keep it up
That's what I used, thanks!
I see only half inch lines ( hot and cold ) in my basement . If I take a water supply from half inch lines for the basement bathroom and kitchen , is there any water pressure issue ?
That should be fine. Mine were 3/4 because it was the main lines coming from the water heater/ pressure tank.
trap arm for the sink is over code length from vent
Yeah I added a check valve vent under the sink
@@Kordare I heard you say that in the video. Some states only allow Air admitted valve in a island sink
my state does allow it in this situation.
Not sure if there is a "fart fan" in there might want to consider it to reduce humidity in the bathroom, as far as your sink drain you essentially created a wet vent for your tub and im not sure but I hope there's a p trap in the ground for the tub drain . You used a nice copper stubout for your toilet but not the lavatory? Anyhow overall good clean work
Yes I installed a vent fan in here. I installed a check valve vent under the sink, and yes there is a p trap under the concrete for the tub. Used copper for the toilet because it is left exposed, more prone to potential sunlight or getting hit. Thanks!
@Kordare great work and really good video. Thank you for letting us in your home
Please give us update if it pass inspection by the authorities.
Do you need to pressure test the water lines? Or if it isn't leaking it it good?
It's a good idea to pressure test with compressed air and a gauge over a certain period of time.
ចែករំលែកអ្វីដែលថ្មីៗ
Using pex for the tub spout connection will restrict this line due to its smaller inner diameter and often will cause a drip from the shower head while the tub is being run. Should be run in copper.
That's why I used 3/4 pex for the tub spout. This is fully finished now and I can tell you it doesn't cause any drip when used.
Could also use PexA instead of B… uses flex connectors instead of crimps - no restrictions
@@wrenchboostboi8994 that’s actually not true. Both pex a and pex b have fittings that insert into the pipe which restrict the flow. Copper fittings go over the pipe for example and do not restrict flow.
@@i.bleed.green.2081naaw it is true… pex B fittings are much smaller due to the fact of having to fit into the inside diameter of the pex pipe, minus the width of the fitting walls as well. This makes a pexB fitting restrict flow by about 1/3 the normal rate. Pex A fittings are made so the fitting fits exact to the inside diameter of the pipe, so all that you lose is the fittings wall width - which would restrict flow by a much lesser extent. A pexB fitting would literally fit inside a pexA fitting… the size difference is not negligible.
@@wrenchboostboi8994 I’ve personally installed pex A on a tub spout and had the result in speaking of.
There might be a difference in diameter but it still causes an issue. That’s why everyone, including the video maker, goes another direction.
Is it normal to not put the bathroom rated drywall behind the shower wall inserts?
These shower walls are meant to secure directly to studs. If you were to do tile you would likely put up cement board first.
Great job as usual. What bath surround kit did you use?
Thank you! I forget the brand but I think it was something like aloha style from home depot
Where are the vents for the vanity?
AAC check valve under the sink. Legal in my area
nice job anyone know where can i buy the walls for bathtub?
Home Depot! Thanks 🤘
That lavatory drain is about 9 miles out of venting distance.
Haha yeah I used an AAV .
Never seen a wye on a tub drain before.
I got creative 😅
What's the point in the 3/4 line down to the tub fill? If 1/2" is going into your valve 3/4" out wont increase the gpm for the fill spout?
If you don't do that, water will come out of the shower head when you fill the tub.
Your valve directs the water. Not the pipe. I'm not sure what you mean...@@Kordare
The valve has no control over what goes up and down, hence why you need to pull the pin on the spout to direct water to the head.
I never said up or down. I said the valve directs the water.
(valve: a device for controlling the passage of fluid or air through a pipe, duct, etc., especially an automatic device allowing movement in one direction only.)
I understand how the diverter works. My question was, why did you use 3/4" pipe from the valve to the tub spout instead of 1/2" pipe? Your answer was that if you don't use 3/4" pipe (If you don't do that) from the valve to the tub spout it will come out of the shower head?
@@Kordare
Please do not think I am trying to argue with you. I'm only seeking clarification as I'm trying to educate myself.@@Kordare
U should explain what high for eqch individuals pipe. Cause dumy like me wont know 😅
What do you mean?
Nice
nice
🛀
👍
Plastic walls in the shover?
I believe they are actually fiberglass
you need a vent on your sink drain
I used an AAV under the sink which is legal to code here
trap arm for your sink exceeds maximum distance
I installed a check valve vent under the sink
🤘👍
The word “coupler” just really boils my blood
Haha sorry I'm not a plumber
You married? Asking for myself 😊😊❤❤
Microplastics!
Yes sir!
You pull a permit 🤫
Sure
For what? He doesnt need too. Stop commenting when you are clueless and ignorant.
No arrestors, shover valve to high, no p trap 🤔
Why would this need an arrestor? I placed the valve where I wanted it... There is a p trap under the concrete don't worry.
Amerikanische Wertarbeit.
Hopefully you don't have a drought. Then the rodents will chew the pex for water. We see that in cal .
Yeah I'm not in a drought area, I'm in the Northeast
Hack
Thank you!
3/4 out of the valve to the tub spout does nothing when the feed line is 1/2” and your putting 1/2” into the tub spout 😂
The only reason is so it doesn't come out the shower head while filling the tub. And I can tell you it works perfectly for this purpose.
You are feeding the tub from 2 separate 1/2" lines. Both the hot and cold feed into it, 3/4 was a good idea.
Watching you plumb that bathroom was more riveting than a reality TV show! Can't wait for the season finale: The First Flush 💩😂
😂😂
Lol!!!😮😂😢
You wrote something like... "I cannot wait for the season finale: The First Flush". This video was make for people who are doing a bathroom re-model or putting in a new bathroom. The video is not meant for entertainment really; it's an educational video or instructional video. It's not really meant to be fun to watch, just informational.
Personally where the toilet will be I would have the double sink vanities instead and where the sink is going to be at I would have the toilet Just more privacy
Unfortunately with the drains in the concrete I'm pretty stuck with what I have. But I think it will work out