so glad for this video, all i can find on mini forums is to drop subframe to replace ARB bushes (what a headache) and thats even what my haynes manual is telling me to do. very grateful for this video. Thankyou!
Thank you for an excellent and informative video. Showed me how to do the job .... with all the challenges on access and tight bolts included ... that us amateur mechanics frequently experience. My car, a 2009 Cooper S, is 'clunking' due to worn sway bar bushes .... will now replace them thanks to your video.
hi mini guy! i have a 2011 mini cooper clubman that needs control arm bushings and by watching your videois it safe to say all i gotta do is drop the sub frame 5 inches if that to get enough room to insert new bushings
Thanks for filming this, Im a HGV fitter by trade but videos like this help no end when the bosses daughter wants the ARB bushes replaced on her CooperD
@@ProjectMini I was trying to figure out what else I'll need to have my sway bar replaced. It just looks like bushings and sway bar with no TTY bolts. I hope this is right?
Just got a R56 diesel and the front ARB bushes are shot. Only 36k miles but spent 4 years driving daily on a 1 mile farm track. Other forums have said a full subframe removal is required. Might give this a go and change the control arm bushes too
Hi. Thanks for this good video. I m writing from nothern italy and I m going to make the replacement job only of the sway bar bushes on my R57 jcw becouse of the typical noise problem. In your opinion, have I to follow your exact explanation shown until minute 26? Or u have a quicker way for only the bushes? Thanks again..
Yeah. This is completely unrealistic for those of us who have 230,000 miles on an R53 and drive in the rust belt. He's loosening those bolts with his pinky finger in the air. I'm gonna need a whole day of soaking penetrating oil, and a lot of what you said. And still, the smaller bolts are just going to snap, leaving me with a hole to drill out and more new parts to order.
Is your rear bar solid or hollow? If its solid then go with a 27mm and set your rear bar at the stiffest setting. If its hollow then leave your front bar stock
@@ProjectMini Lol dang, it's solid so I guess I don't need a front, but I just bought the front end links in preparation for a front bar. I have a 2010 R56 just like you. Thanks for the reply, I have watched many of your videos.
Don’t forget to subscribe th-cam.com/users/projectmini
Imagine living in a place where cars don’t rust. It must be paradise working on cars
It’s great but rent here is $4k per month.
so glad for this video, all i can find on mini forums is to drop subframe to replace ARB bushes (what a headache) and thats even what my haynes manual is telling me to do. very grateful for this video. Thankyou!
Thank you for watching my video! 💪
Thank you for an excellent and informative video. Showed me how to do the job .... with all the challenges on access and tight bolts included ... that us amateur mechanics frequently experience. My car, a 2009 Cooper S, is 'clunking' due to worn sway bar bushes .... will now replace them thanks to your video.
Definitely suggest watching the whole video. Great content 👌 this guy knows what he's doing 👏
Thank you 🙏
hi mini guy! i have a 2011 mini cooper clubman that needs control arm bushings and by watching your videois it safe to say all i gotta do is drop the sub frame 5 inches if that to get enough room to insert new bushings
Thanks for filming this, Im a HGV fitter by trade but videos like this help no end when the bosses daughter wants the ARB bushes replaced on her CooperD
Make sure she gets an alignment after, mine was pretty far out until i brought it in to get aligned
I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you 🙏
@@ProjectMini I was trying to figure out what else I'll need to have my sway bar replaced. It just looks like bushings and sway bar with no TTY bolts. I hope this is right?
Great camera work considering car on jack stands THANKS.
Just got a R56 diesel and the front ARB bushes are shot. Only 36k miles but spent 4 years driving daily on a 1 mile farm track. Other forums have said a full subframe removal is required. Might give this a go and change the control arm bushes too
You definitely don’t need to remove the subframe and the job want too bad were either. Make sure to get an alignment afterwards though
@@ProjectMini thanks I’ll try the forward ones first to see how they go. Great vid
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for the video.
Very practice for do de ot
Could you replace the control arm and bushings at the same time? Would it make it easier to get the sway bar out with the control arms out of the way?
I installed my front 27mm sway bar earlier today.....it took me about 2.5 hours. Tomorrow's the front BC Racing coilovers.
Great video, how much torque is needed for the frame screws?
Great job! But engineering wise a total nightmare...
You have to disassemble half the car to get to replace the sway bar brushings...
Hi. Thanks for this good video. I m writing from nothern italy and I m going to make the replacement job only of the sway bar bushes on my R57 jcw becouse of the typical noise problem.
In your opinion, have I to follow your exact explanation shown until minute 26? Or u have a quicker way for only the bushes? Thanks again..
Follow up until you unbolt the bushings, replace them and then put the car back together
Ive had to get 2 people standing on sub frame and long breaker bar with scaffold pole on end because bolts are that tight.
Yeah. This is completely unrealistic for those of us who have 230,000 miles on an R53 and drive in the rust belt. He's loosening those bolts with his pinky finger in the air. I'm gonna need a whole day of soaking penetrating oil, and a lot of what you said. And still, the smaller bolts are just going to snap, leaving me with a hole to drill out and more new parts to order.
Need to heat the bolts very hot
So if you only want to swap out the bushings, the subframe has to come down? 🤔
Yes, you can’t get the bolts out without lowering the subframe
I just bought the Alta 22mm rear sway bar. Which sway bar and size should I get for the front?
Is your rear bar solid or hollow? If its solid then go with a 27mm and set your rear bar at the stiffest setting. If its hollow then leave your front bar stock
@@ProjectMini Lol dang, it's solid so I guess I don't need a front, but I just bought the front end links in preparation for a front bar. I have a 2010 R56 just like you. Thanks for the reply, I have watched many of your videos.
I would get a 27mm front swaybar and run the rear on full stiff
@@ProjectMini awesome I will, thanks so much!
You don’t need a front sway bar it just makes the car under steer unless you have super soft aftermarket suspension 💀
I'm looking to have a stiffer steering feel in my cooper s r52, does changing the front sway bar will make it?
Help
Thank you for video! It’s not a must yet ugg shit
Definitely get the stiffest rear bar you can before doing the front one but once you do it’s a different car