I've watched 40 hours of jaffe videos and am about to start the cash series he made.. If you're reading this take advantage of the offer. Jaffe is absolutely amazing I've learned so much from him
For the example at 14:47, I would definitely bluff with a raise since we have the nut blocker, but probably not with a more than 4x pot shove. Wouldn't a raise like 300-350 (4x-5x of his river bet) also do the job?
with the bet size you saying heres the thing they are going to call you With all their top pairs and with their two pairs in which case you lose you were trying to get these hands to fold by doing the all in because they beat you….his two pair or top pair will be good often enough to make it a profitable call for that price…with the all in you are giving him such a terrible price he cant call with those hands if hes a solid player
Great video! I find it interesting however that in previous videos you mentioned if you have a range advantage you bet more often and if you have a nut advantage you bet bigger which seems counterintuitive to the first hand example where you say you don't have the nut advantage but you should polarize and bet bigger
In the earlier example, why wouldn’t you be 3 betting the K9s preflop vs a button raise, maybe I’m a bit to aggressive preflop, but it doesn’t seem like a hand that’s not out of line to 3 bet with
Hey Boss, what country options do I have if I wanted to move and grind online poker in a legit place where it is legal. I want somewhere cheap so that I could live in an apartment while playing poker. Maybe get a side job but mainly play online. I know Linus went to Malta to play nl 50 but are there other options like Costa Rica or something? Thanks brother!
If in US play the apps like club gg easier fish there compensates hi rake hi antes possible shady practices. Compared to GG poker and pokerstars where forces you to move and they are uber nits and hard to get paid.
I just have a quick question. Montana law is $800 pot max. And the game I play in is 1 blind. $5 small blind and big blind first to act. What kind of range should I play in that game? I do fairly well in that game but I feel like I could do a lot better.
"Our range is more nut heavy but a little bit weaker" at 11:58. This is confusing to me, how is our range weaker but at the same time more nut heavy? Doesn't nut heavy mean our range is more likely to have hands containing and/or blocking the nuts?
I think the idea is something like: Nut heavy is largely based on postion, preflop, flop action (defines our range and our range is more nut heavy for the partixular flop...higher/broadway, wet board) Range strength, overall, means we still have a lot more hands in our range...the range is not capped by a show of weakness... So it still contains the more nut heavy portion of our range relative to opponent but also contains more marginal and weak hands. Again, speculating...but like if they raise on the flop, for instance, or raise pre...their range would be more nut heavy and uncapped after flop. Largley spexulative but general hand reading
This sounds so much like my home game, at least at the end of the night when all the good players have acquired all the money. Good to know we are playing close to optimal lol.
Hi. I have a question about a very unusual deep-stack situation and how I should handle it. I play at a TOO CHEAP cash game table with constant opponents. At this table all opponents have a very high stack depth initially. In fact, there is no official limit to the buy-in amount, rebuy amount, and how many times one can rebuy. But people usually buy in 100bb (one set of chips) or 200bb (two sets of chips). People (who have not bought their 2nd set) ALWAYS buy their 2nd set if they loose their first. Opponents usually buy their 3rd set of chips if they loose what they have, and sometimes they buy their 4th set, but never more than that (at least so far). I find the situation too unbalanced to use these charts without proper adjustments, and non of the adjustments that I have seen so far seems to fit the situation. So I came up my own solution, which I want to know if it is appropriate or not. I consider 200bb as the commonly perceived stack depth at the table (since everyone almost always openly buy this much). I tend to consider a VIRTUAL bb (vbb) that is 4bb, so the perceived stack depth translates to 50vbb (rebuy is 25 for every set), which is much more reasonable. Then I apply the charts for 50vbb stack depth, and I assume the sb and bb are vsb and vbb and bet 3 to 4 vbb when RFI (and interestingly many opponents still limp). In fact, I assume that vbb should have been the actual bb size for the game to make sence. But since others disagree, I play AS IF it is, regardless. I might be risking when raising to 4vbb (16bb) when there is only 1.5bb in the pot, but the game is so cheep that I think it doesn't matter. Besides, when I do this I should play more tightly, but since my opponents play too loosely, I don't need to do so. Is that fine, or there is some better way that I'm missing? Thanks in advace
Can you speak a little more slower ,I know but I am a fan following your class since years ago .😅😊 Overall I understand 80% but sometimes I know your thought process go so fast and I just wanna get start learning more clearly and I wannt fully understanding all of those theories
What is the main adjustment you make when playing 200bb+ cash game poker?
Biggest adjustment for me is playing *_really_* tight from OOP.
I play suited connected hands more often deeper and deeper.
‘ play more hands in position and less out of position’ - John Little 💯💯
I tent to play more speculative hands like 45s.
And probably call 3 bets wider, say with 77.
I've watched 40 hours of jaffe videos and am about to start the cash series he made.. If you're reading this take advantage of the offer. Jaffe is absolutely amazing I've learned so much from him
For the example at 14:47, I would definitely bluff with a raise since we have the nut blocker, but probably not with a more than 4x pot shove. Wouldn't a raise like 300-350 (4x-5x of his river bet) also do the job?
with the bet size you saying heres the thing they are going to call you With all their top pairs and with their two pairs in which case you lose you were trying to get these hands to fold by doing the all in because they beat you….his two pair or top pair will be good often enough to make it a profitable call for that price…with the all in you are giving him such a terrible price he cant call with those hands if hes a solid player
Great video! I find it interesting however that in previous videos you mentioned if you have a range advantage you bet more often and if you have a nut advantage you bet bigger which seems counterintuitive to the first hand example where you say you don't have the nut advantage but you should polarize and bet bigger
My local 2/3 game has a $1k max but in. So thanks I needed this
What poker app do you use? Is the app you use accessible in UK? WPT global, for example, is not.
I don't.
In the earlier example, why wouldn’t you be 3 betting the K9s preflop vs a button raise, maybe I’m a bit to aggressive preflop, but it doesn’t seem like a hand that’s not out of line to 3 bet with
Hello Jonathan, I have been watching your videos and am winning a lot more, thank you for this free content.
My pleasure! I'm glad it hear it, Lawrence!
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE POKER THANKS FOR THE GEMS IT’S DEFINITELY NOT UNAPPRECIATED…. I wont forget to smash that like button
Hey Boss, what country options do I have if I wanted to move and grind online poker in a legit place where it is legal. I want somewhere cheap so that I could live in an apartment while playing poker. Maybe get a side job but mainly play online. I know Linus went to Malta to play nl 50 but are there other options like Costa Rica or something? Thanks brother!
I am not sure. The rules change all the time. Consult Google.
If in US play the apps like club gg easier fish there compensates hi rake hi antes possible shady practices. Compared to GG poker and pokerstars where forces you to move and they are uber nits and hard to get paid.
-18:50 : "marginal made hands like AT, AJ..." how is either a made hand?
I just have a quick question. Montana law is $800 pot max. And the game I play in is 1 blind. $5 small blind and big blind first to act.
What kind of range should I play in that game?
I do fairly well in that game but I feel like I could do a lot better.
Probably about the same as you would in any normal nlhe game with 40bbs tacks.
"Our range is more nut heavy but a little bit weaker" at 11:58. This is confusing to me, how is our range weaker but at the same time more nut heavy? Doesn't nut heavy mean our range is more likely to have hands containing and/or blocking the nuts?
I think the idea is something like: Nut heavy is largely based on postion, preflop, flop action (defines our range and our range is more nut heavy for the partixular flop...higher/broadway, wet board)
Range strength, overall, means we still have a lot more hands in our range...the range is not capped by a show of weakness... So it still contains the more nut heavy portion of our range relative to opponent but also contains more marginal and weak hands.
Again, speculating...but like if they raise on the flop, for instance, or raise pre...their range would be more nut heavy and uncapped after flop.
Largley spexulative but general hand reading
This sounds so much like my home game, at least at the end of the night when all the good players have acquired all the money. Good to know we are playing close to optimal lol.
very good content!
What recomends you to coach live cashgames ? Tou are not a winner in 10 20 games
Hi. I have a question about a very unusual deep-stack situation and how I should handle it.
I play at a TOO CHEAP cash game table with constant opponents. At this table all opponents have a very high stack depth initially. In fact, there is no official limit to the buy-in amount, rebuy amount, and how many times one can rebuy. But people usually buy in 100bb (one set of chips) or 200bb (two sets of chips). People (who have not bought their 2nd set) ALWAYS buy their 2nd set if they loose their first. Opponents usually buy their 3rd set of chips if they loose what they have, and sometimes they buy their 4th set, but never more than that (at least so far). I find the situation too unbalanced to use these charts without proper adjustments, and non of the adjustments that I have seen so far seems to fit the situation. So I came up my own solution, which I want to know if it is appropriate or not.
I consider 200bb as the commonly perceived stack depth at the table (since everyone almost always openly buy this much). I tend to consider a VIRTUAL bb (vbb) that is 4bb, so the perceived stack depth translates to 50vbb (rebuy is 25 for every set), which is much more reasonable. Then I apply the charts for 50vbb stack depth, and I assume the sb and bb are vsb and vbb and bet 3 to 4 vbb when RFI (and interestingly many opponents still limp). In fact, I assume that vbb should have been the actual bb size for the game to make sence. But since others disagree, I play AS IF it is, regardless. I might be risking when raising to 4vbb (16bb) when there is only 1.5bb in the pot, but the game is so cheep that I think it doesn't matter. Besides, when I do this I should play more tightly, but since my opponents play too loosely, I don't need to do so. Is that fine, or there is some better way that I'm missing?
Thanks in advace
Can you speak a little more slower ,I know but I am a fan following your class since years ago .😅😊 Overall I understand 80% but sometimes I know your thought process go so fast and I just wanna get start learning more clearly and I wannt fully understanding all of those theories
Just slow down the video to 0.75x speed in your settings.