Hi Paolo, thanks for the legwork and getting the link to the team. I can certainly say that as an electronics community we always appreciate it when an equipment manufacturer / supplier listens to the end user to make product improvements. Thanks for supporting the blog. Cheers, Martin.
Hi Hakan, Thanks for the feedback. There are dual and tripple output PSUs...I would buy at least a dual if you can afford it. 3 Amp is sufficient for most electronics work but go for the 5 Amp if you can afford it. Note that on some dual output supplies you can link the outputs to get a single output with higher current. Cheers, Martin.
Hi Miles...no it didn't...it's something I still want to do but I have quite a few videos to complete before I'll have the time. Thanks for your feedback.
That review pointed out a lot things I had never thought about before. There is so much to consider other than just plugging one in and turning on the power.
About the CC and CV, when the CC-light is on, you got Constant Current. As long as the light is on, no matter what the resistance in the load is, the current will be constant. Same thing applies for CV. If the load resistance is to high to reach the set max current, the CC-light will go off and you're no longer in Constant Current-mode.
Thank you for this I've just purchased the same SMPS it's saved me the bother of testing it myself as I can't see there being a significant variation in spec. between units. I'm going to fit a 3position switch on the output to read 1/Set Current, 2/On and 3/off, should make it much easier to use.
If you'd bothered to read the manual, it tells you to use the metal bridge (that we can see is in a vertical 'disconnected' position behind the neutral terminal) to connect the neutral terminal with either the +ve or -ve terminal. This will reduce the ripple effect. I know that many user manuals are poorly written, but it is still worth having a read. ;-)Otherwise, this is a useful review, although you seem confused about the fact that it is possible to set the power supply such that both c.c. and c.v. are *both* giving active pre-set limit protection, or you permit unrestricted Amperage up to the power supply's limit of 5A (c.v. mode) where the voltage knobs work as rheostats to vary the output voltage and the load is free to draw as many Amps as it needs, up to the aforementioned nominal nominal 5A.
Very nice thorough review video. I really look forward to see your second video where the modification would be done. Just a little thing to add: You've already showed the transient peak detection using the multimeter, but I think it would be much nicer if you could include actual transient response curve on oscilloscope.
If it was mine I would move the mains switch to the rear ( using the voltage setting space, how often do you really change mains voltage?) and repurpose the mains switch as output switch, it is rated to handle the voltage and current. Simple enough to do, just make a note inside of the connections to change taps if you need to do so again.
Hi Martin - thanks again for the Video and your good presentation. To Test PSU's I would recommend to set your electronic load if possible to a frequency mode switching from minimum load level to a maximum load level and observe the output with your scope. This test should discover any regulation limits you should be aware of. An interesting thing to notice in general by opening an PSU would be the size of the output capacitor which should be as small as possible.
Hi! Just checking in for part 2, but it seems that it didn't happen yet. Any chance that you'll do it in the near future or we shouldn't bother you about it anymore? :-)
The mods I plan to add to mine are; an output switch to activate or disable the output of the power, twin USB port that I will add including it's own 5v regulator, A pair of AC banana jacks at the back for testing AC circuits with it's own separate panel mount fuse to easily change glass fuses. (the AC banana jacks will allow me to easily connect banana plugs with crocodile clips than to be messing with hacked wires coming out of the mains socket. It's more safe and controlled this way.) ~ Jason
With regard to the noise, you might try turning off other things in your lab, one at a time, to see if any are contributing to the noise. Fluorescent light and anything with a switching power supply are good places to start. Cheers, Mark
When you pressed the "low current" button during the demonstration the current dropped from .63 to .389 - so something else must be happening besides increasing the resolution of the display. Does the PSU manual describe the function of the button in more detail?
sorry but my english is not very good, could you explain to me what is the key in the center "AMPS" "HI / LO". if you can also an example of when you actually use it. Good job Antonio
Iso-tech team is a follower and fan of Martin's blog! Thanks Martin, I have already passed the link to our technical team! We are always looking for such kind of feedbacks in order to improve our products. I would like to invite all ISO-TECH users to place a product review in RS website to help other people to select the right product and our team to develop the offer on the basis of your needs
Nice Martin, how about leaving a link to your review on the RS customer feedback form, so that they can also get a little more info from the users. As for the noise, if you looked at Dave's video recently most is going to be conducted noise from the AC mains and pickup from test leads rather than the supply. Open it up and show us how it looks inside. Just note that the highest power dissipation inside occurs at the level at which it has just switched to the highest tap, at the highest current.
I also have to note, I really don't like that switching between low and high current. If you are using the low-setting and set the limit but want to change to the high-setting, if you just change the switch you may burn the circuit as it sets to 3A directly. The "right" thing to do would be that only the display changes, and show OL if you go above 2A.
Hi Martin, thank you for this review. It has been very useful for me as a beginner level amateur hobbyist. I was looking for a power supply, and you have definitely pointed out important features to look for. I have a couple of questions to you: 1- There are dual power suppliers. Do you think, at some point in the future, I may need a dual power supply, or is single power supply sufficient? 2 - I have noticed two choices in the market, either 3 Amps or 5 Amp? Is 3Amps sufficient? Thanks.
I notice your advertising mat is cut off so you can rarely see your sponsors URL completely. It's obvious what it is as you move around, of course. Might be something to check when you align the camera and mat.
Nice test, but you missed a few points. When testing with a 3A load at low voltage, the limit was probably not the power supply, but the load. Most power supplies does a nice turn on without much overshot, but why not do a test, where you remove the load. I.e. set you load to 3A and then switch it off, what peek voltage will you get from the power supply.
Hellio sir i have a problem with my power supply, my power supply type is GPS-3030DD and my problem is when i adjust the voltage of the power supply, it won't change, it still 0 volt, what should i do ? thank you.
Electronics lab or test bench technicians can tell you that the voltage and current indicators are used for “REFERENCE ONLY “and never considered as accurate. “Power supply output ripple” is VERYcommon in a “no load” state especially with all but the most expensive power supplies. Connect a load to the output and see if the noise subsides. I would like to see the “ramp up” and “ramp down” (power on/off slopes) on a scope. Too long of ramp up/down times can damage some components.
hello I know it's an old video but I'm looking for documentation or method to calibrate this power supply and make the changes you recommend thank you. model gw instek 3030d
I am looking for a good 35 - 50 amp power supply for my bench and to power my transceiver. I am new to ham radio and power supplies. I'd like a var. but a 13.5 or so would be fine. Price is somewhat important, any ideas?
One annoying little thing is the location of the GND binding post. Ideally the Pos and Neg should be together at a standard 3/4" pitch so it is possible use a bannana to BNC or similar adaptor. Your method for current limit at very low voltages is flawed as the test leads become a significant factor to the point where the leads limit the current A better analyisis of the output quality would be to use the scope AC coupled while powering the dummy load at various volt and current settings
thank you for sharing this video. i have four reinforced concrete specimens with mesh on the top (+) and i would like to apply electrons from DC power in order to move ions from the bar. how i can apply the same voltage for the 4 specimens? i have ISO-Tech Dc Power Supply IPS 606D- 3A i want to apply 0.7 A/m2 and 40V i think parallel is the best solution but how i do it with only one Dc supply? thanks
Personally I do not like the coarse/fine potmeters, I prefer a multiturn portmeter. I did that modification to one of my power supplies. It is easy: check the value of the potmeter, then buy a multiturn potmeter with the same value and replace it. This is best done on power supplies with one volt or ampere potmeter.
They are all calibrated from the factory, the "additional service" is really just a traceable certification document and calibration void if removed sticker.
You are very careful in you handling of the power supply, I do short a 12 volt output when I have to set current. I might give a small spark, but if the power supply cannot handle it, it is time to replace the power suppl (The over current protection is supposed to handle a short at the full output voltage).
wow everyone down below about noise....dude just slap a 30 uF cap from + to - in addition to a .1 uF...that should filter all noise that you could worry about
bench supplies is a classic case of stagnation in EE, same as 400$ 1980s tech multimeters when super computer touch pads cost 70$. it's a myth that switchmode is noisy. never mind that switchmode can be filtered to arbitrary stability, never mind the trafo provides 50Hz AC swinging from negative to positive. Even if you wanted a linear front end, main power could be switchmode instead of the moronic trafo. especially for mail order. it could be the size of a pack of cigarettes. and cost
Hi Paolo, thanks for the legwork and getting the link to the team.
I can certainly say that as an electronics community we always appreciate it when an equipment manufacturer / supplier listens to the end user to make product improvements.
Thanks for supporting the blog.
Cheers, Martin.
Hi Hakan,
Thanks for the feedback.
There are dual and tripple output PSUs...I would buy at least a dual if you can afford it.
3 Amp is sufficient for most electronics work but go for the 5 Amp if you can afford it.
Note that on some dual output supplies you can link the outputs to get a single output with higher current.
Cheers,
Martin.
Hi Miles...no it didn't...it's something I still want to do but I have quite a few videos to complete before I'll have the time. Thanks for your feedback.
Very good point, I did not think of that. I will try remember to point that out in part 2. Cheers, Martin.
Thanks for all that input Jason...noted. Cheers, Martin.
That review pointed out a lot things I had never thought about before. There is so much to consider other than just plugging one in and turning on the power.
Might do the multiturn pot upgrade to the PSU I built...thanks for the post.
About the CC and CV, when the CC-light is on, you got Constant Current. As long as the light is on, no matter what the resistance in the load is, the current will be constant.
Same thing applies for CV.
If the load resistance is to high to reach the set max current, the CC-light will go off and you're no longer in Constant Current-mode.
Thank you for this I've just purchased the same SMPS it's saved me the bother of testing it myself as I can't see there being a significant variation in spec. between units. I'm going to fit a 3position switch on the output to read 1/Set Current, 2/On and 3/off, should make it much easier to use.
If you'd bothered to read the manual, it tells you to use the metal bridge (that we can see is in a vertical 'disconnected' position behind the neutral terminal) to connect the neutral terminal with either the +ve or -ve terminal. This will reduce the ripple effect. I know that many user manuals are poorly written, but it is still worth having a read. ;-)Otherwise, this is a useful review, although you seem confused about the fact that it is possible to set the power supply such that both c.c. and c.v. are *both* giving active pre-set limit protection, or you permit unrestricted Amperage up to the power supply's limit of 5A (c.v. mode) where the voltage knobs work as rheostats to vary the output voltage and the load is free to draw as many Amps as it needs, up to the aforementioned nominal nominal 5A.
Very nice thorough review video. I really look forward to see your second video where the modification would be done. Just a little thing to add: You've already showed the transient peak detection using the multimeter, but I think it would be much nicer if you could include actual transient response curve on oscilloscope.
If it was mine I would move the mains switch to the rear ( using the voltage setting space, how often do you really change mains voltage?) and repurpose the mains switch as output switch, it is rated to handle the voltage and current. Simple enough to do, just make a note inside of the connections to change taps if you need to do so again.
Hi Martin - thanks again for the Video and your good presentation.
To Test PSU's I would recommend to set your electronic load if possible to a frequency mode switching from minimum load level to a maximum load level and observe the output with your scope.
This test should discover any regulation limits you should be aware of.
An interesting thing to notice in general by opening an PSU would be the size of the output capacitor which should be as small as possible.
Use the scope for the overshoot
you have to use bandwith limit on the scope to 20MHz
and AC couple when you want to messure the noise level
Could I ask you to put links in your Videos when you have a video which has a continuation. Sometime difficult finding the follow on video.
Hi! Just checking in for part 2, but it seems that it didn't happen yet. Any chance that you'll do it in the near future or we shouldn't bother you about it anymore? :-)
The mods I plan to add to mine are; an output switch to activate or disable the output of the power, twin USB port that I will add including it's own 5v regulator, A pair of AC banana jacks at the back for testing AC circuits with it's own separate panel mount fuse to easily change glass fuses. (the AC banana jacks will allow me to easily connect banana plugs with crocodile clips than to be messing with hacked wires coming out of the mains socket. It's more safe and controlled this way.) ~ Jason
With regard to the noise, you might try turning off other things in your lab, one at a time, to see if any are contributing to the noise. Fluorescent light and anything with a switching power supply are good places to start. Cheers, Mark
When you pressed the "low current" button during the demonstration the current dropped from .63 to .389 - so something else must be happening besides increasing the resolution of the display. Does the PSU manual describe the function of the button in more detail?
Thanks for the input...very handy. Cheers, Martin.
sorry but my english is not very good, could you explain to me what is the key in the center "AMPS" "HI / LO". if you can also an example of when you actually use it.
Good job Antonio
Thanks...valuable input...noted. Cheers, Martin.
Iso-tech team is a follower and fan of Martin's blog! Thanks Martin, I have already passed the link to our technical team! We are always looking for such kind of feedbacks in order to improve our products.
I would like to invite all ISO-TECH users to place a product review in RS website to help other people to select the right product and our team to develop the offer on the basis of your needs
Nice Martin, how about leaving a link to your review on the RS customer feedback form, so that they can also get a little more info from the users. As for the noise, if you looked at Dave's video recently most is going to be conducted noise from the AC mains and pickup from test leads rather than the supply. Open it up and show us how it looks inside. Just note that the highest power dissipation inside occurs at the level at which it has just switched to the highest tap, at the highest current.
Thanks, great feedback...noted.
Good input...rump up and down in part 2...thanks for the post.
Is there going to be a follow up video? I really want to install safe output switching and see inside one of these beasts.
I also have to note, I really don't like that switching between low and high current.
If you are using the low-setting and set the limit but want to change to the high-setting, if you just change the switch you may burn the circuit as it sets to 3A directly.
The "right" thing to do would be that only the display changes, and show OL if you go above 2A.
Did you do part 2? I cant find it. Great blog by the way.
Hi Martin, thank you for this review. It has been very useful for me as a beginner level amateur hobbyist. I was looking for a power supply, and you have definitely pointed out important features to look for.
I have a couple of questions to you:
1- There are dual power suppliers. Do you think, at some point in the future, I may need a dual power supply, or is single power supply sufficient?
2 - I have noticed two choices in the market, either 3 Amps or 5 Amp? Is 3Amps sufficient?
Thanks.
I notice your advertising mat is cut off so you can rarely see your sponsors URL completely. It's obvious what it is as you move around, of course. Might be something to check when you align the camera and mat.
Nice test, but you missed a few points.
When testing with a 3A load at low voltage, the limit was probably not the power supply, but the load.
Most power supplies does a nice turn on without much overshot, but why not do a test, where you remove the load. I.e. set you load to 3A and then switch it off, what peek voltage will you get from the power supply.
Can you explain once more howbto check mA
Thanks, appreciate the input.
Hellio sir i have a problem with my power supply, my power supply type is GPS-3030DD and my problem is when i adjust the voltage of the power supply, it won't change, it still 0 volt, what should i do ? thank you.
Electronics lab or test bench technicians can tell you that the voltage and current indicators are used for “REFERENCE ONLY “and never considered as accurate.
“Power supply output ripple” is VERYcommon in a “no load” state especially with all but the most expensive power supplies. Connect a load to the output and see if the noise subsides.
I would like to see the “ramp up” and “ramp down” (power on/off slopes) on a scope. Too long of ramp up/down times can damage some components.
hello I know it's an old video but I'm looking for documentation or method to calibrate this power supply and make the changes you recommend thank you. model gw instek 3030d
Good point...something for part 2.
I am looking for a good 35 - 50 amp power supply for my bench and to power my transceiver. I am new to ham radio and power supplies. I'd like a var. but a 13.5 or so would be fine. Price is somewhat important, any ideas?
i would be obliged if you could tell me which is the best bench power supply for testing laptops
Good mnemonic. I'm going to think of them as that from now on. So simple.
One annoying little thing is the location of the GND binding post. Ideally the Pos and Neg should be together at a standard 3/4" pitch so it is possible use a bannana to BNC or similar adaptor.
Your method for current limit at very low voltages is flawed as the test leads become a significant factor to the point where the leads limit the current
A better analyisis of the output quality would be to use the scope AC coupled while powering the dummy load at various volt and current settings
Being a Cevelander I'm loving the shirt. thanks...
Thanks..very good video by DJ.
thank you for sharing this video.
i have four reinforced concrete specimens with mesh on the top (+) and i would like to apply electrons from DC power in order to move ions from the bar.
how i can apply the same voltage for the 4 specimens?
i have ISO-Tech Dc Power Supply IPS 606D- 3A
i want to apply 0.7 A/m2 and 40V
i think parallel is the best solution but how i do it with only one Dc supply?
thanks
Hi Martin, great review. I can't find the second part of this review. Did it happen? Many thanks, Miles
smps have a transformer
but because its working at higher frequencies is smaller and litter
CC and CV should stand for Cap Current and Cap Voltage . . .
Personally I do not like the coarse/fine potmeters, I prefer a multiturn portmeter. I did that modification to one of my power supplies. It is easy: check the value of the potmeter, then buy a multiturn potmeter with the same value and replace it. This is best done on power supplies with one volt or ampere potmeter.
I notice that RS Components offer this with and without their calibration service. Was yours calibrated?
***** No...and it is fairly accurate.
+mjlorton that's good to know as it's almost £70 cheaper without the calibration.
They are all calibrated from the factory, the "additional service" is really just a traceable certification document and calibration void if removed sticker.
Internals from Instek and other clonic PSUs, are not the same...
Good lord, got multi meters?
Tear down next ?
Where is part 2?
Yes, please! What is the title?
You are very careful in you handling of the power supply, I do short a 12 volt output when I have to set current. I might give a small spark, but if the power supply cannot handle it, it is time to replace the power suppl (The over current protection is supposed to handle a short at the full output voltage).
this dude,, reliable... thanks
Nice tear down mat...
wow everyone down below about noise....dude just slap a 30 uF cap from + to - in addition to a .1 uF...that should filter all noise that you could worry about
bench supplies is a classic case of stagnation in EE, same as 400$ 1980s tech multimeters when super computer touch pads cost 70$.
it's a myth that switchmode is noisy. never mind that switchmode can be filtered to arbitrary stability, never mind the trafo provides 50Hz AC swinging from negative to positive. Even if you wanted a linear front end, main power could be switchmode instead of the moronic trafo.
especially for mail order.
it could be the size of a pack of cigarettes. and cost
225$ for 30v and 3 amps I know one 4 100$ for 30v and 5 amps
The Light Bulb switching vs linear supply?
The Electric Shock i see them on ebay for $US 50
and they are crap...