Also remember LOCTITE ACTS AS ANTI-SEIZE by excluding moisture intrusion. It resists vibration too which is why I use red gel on my air compressor NPT threaded connections. Rust strips and breaks hardware.
Alright, help settle a friendly dispute we've had ongoing for over 20 years around here. Copper based or aluminum based anti-seize? I personally don't want aluminum in touch steel. Thoughts?
Hi Zach, i like how your "perpetual disasters" always turn out well. You make it all look so effortless and easy. I enjoy the closeup "being there" feel as you work on the pumping units. Nice to see an old EMSCO working in the fields. It is always a pleasure to see your work projects. You do an excellent job presenting them. Thanks always for sharing.
Cool video, Zach! I'm still waiting for the full-length video on how to set the counterweights. Take those bolts out, clean them good with a wire brush, tap and die, then spooey them up with some anti-seize!
I've said this before on a previous video, but considering all the work you do traveling around servicing these pumps, you need to build yourself a truck with a service bed!! It could carry all the tools you need out in the field along with a torch set, air compressor, generator, and even a small swivel boom that could lift that weight and put it back together. You could even mount a good vice on the back.
Usually when I'm forced to take a break from getting a fastener undone, I take a few seconds to soak it in penetrant (I like PB Blaster). Penetrant's best ally is time.
One thing I find that helps with seized up nuts is to quench the threads with penetrating oil after heating the nut. It seems to draw some oil into the threads. Apply, lather, rinse, repeat. Never needed more that three cycles to get the job done..... but my nuts are much smaller than yours.
The voice overs really help 👌👌 better than the normal rambling lol. Keep up the good work 👍 Surprised you didn't put a old rachet and hammered on it. That usually works if the rachet doesn't crap out. Breaker bars work good too. Pretty sure you could fabricate a hammer wrench that has a square so you could use it on any socket
The other thing I think happens to Old buildings is actually the ground Rises every year. Plant life dies breaks down leaves another layer that's like if Grandpa lost some quarters out in the yard 50 years ago if you want to find them now you'd have to dig them up I don't think they really sank they just got covered over.
The proper oil for lubing things is the lube that's coming out of a can with a hole in it and you're rushing to lube everything in sight with it before the propellant runs out.
Dunk those bolts in Never Sleaze. A buddy picked up one of the "yellow brand" 750ftlb electric impactors. 14 million gigawatt battery, blah, blah. A double fisted Hand held that you can gun Commercial truck lugs off with. Had to remove some upright bunks. 1.50" bolts and nuts. It was popping the seized bolts right in two. Kablooey!, Broke another!. Damn!. The 1 inch spline drive Ingersoll Rand is feeling left out. Thanks Zach!.
The trailers I repair use stainless steel bolts and nuts in the rear structure. I feel your pain. Sometimes they just WILL NOT come apart. Even with a 2500lb/ft air impact.
I just finished binge watching your oil field playlist. Great information and well produced. I know a lot more about oil production than I did before. You mentioned setting up your own SCADA to monitor your wells. I am curious if you have tried to setup anything to record the current usage. It seems like that could contain a lot of useful information about the condition of the pump and the well and maybe catch problems earlier. I am also curious if you have looked into using VFD's for your pump motors.
You have to in order to determin where to set the counter weights. You have a rod side and weight side. They counter eachother on the strokes. You want them within 2 amps apart or lower in order to not burn up the electric motor. The closer they are the longer it will run.
I use anti-seize on nearly everything. It is great as a high pressure thread lubricant, I use the standard silver on puller threads. And it stays in the threads which reduces break-away torque compared to dry, greased, or oiled threads.
Do you have a spare nut. Lathe one side totally flat. So it may catch 1.5 threads. Set it up on your mill and drill some 1/8 or 3/16 thru the nut just outside of the threads. Now you have a drill guide to drill thru seized nuts without damaging the bolt threads so you can split the nut easily.
As a former roustabout and well cementer, do you think I could come out to your place for about a week for an internship? Come on buddy, two willing capable and able hands for free!
Having watched enough internet lore. The answer is ramen noodles and super glue. Oh and I forgot the baking soda to make the super glue cure faster but you get the point
I'm Giving Up on propane it's just not hot enough I use the yellow tank stuff map gas although I think it's fake fake map gas now I think it's propane with some oxygenation in it.
they way to do itis COOL the feck out of the whole thing. ice packs, fans, water... THEN use hot gun on the nut when its ald chilled. the heat gun will only heat the nut for expansion and will shift when impact wrenched. For bonus speed, do it in middle of night, when the whole desert is cold as feck.
I find the duty cycle on high torques is about four 9 ah batteries straight in sunny 100+° weather before they smoke. So I think you were under the limit. I will say the straight propane isn't good for much, but mapp with a turbo tip, and the oxy propane mini torch set are killer.
@@TheZachLife have one of the mini 5lb grill tanks and a 20cuft tank. Don't have to worry about tipping the acetylene, and it will still get bolts cherry red.
Do thyself a favor and bring a small oxy-acetylene rig and leave propane-air baby torches for soldering. You'll save serious time and money. Those nuts would have been red hot in minutes then your impact would have snatched them. I wash off my nuts (well, the machine's nuts) off completely with cutting torch if they're really bad. With a little practice you can miss the bolt threads and it's fun to show people who didn't know what a torch with a small cutting tip can really do. About 12 psi acetylene and 30+ on the oxygen does the deed but different welders like different settings. Heating the nut then applying penetrant as it cools is also an option. Every mechanic should practice nut removal before they need to do it on a workpiece. Used cylinders are cheap (I collect them at auctions and have more industrial gases than many welding shops) and easy to score in quantity so ya never run out on a weekend. Used quality US-made torches are cheap online and rarely need attention. Any common US regulator is easy to rebuild yourself with a kit but they're cheap to send out to and then someone else cleans them up.
@@TheZachLife That's easy to do. I buy used of course since the small ones are easy to exchange. Another way is extra hose so it reaches from the truck and medium-sized cylinders. Acetylene is pricey lately and if you practice LP is easy to cut with but harder to see the flame. Any US-made torches soft parts will work with both fuels and while cheaper R-grade hose isn't rated for LP many people use it for many years. T-grade is what I buy new since it lasts much longer and will be less likely to dry out in your oil patch hot weather. LP cutting tips are the only difference and heating tips interchange. I prefer acetylene for precision work. You can braze with either but LP won't gas weld. I collect vintage US torches and rebuild my own regs (not ancient ones but Victor SR series etc). Smith and many others can be rebuilt and kits are available online. Torches are like guns (ergonomics are personal) but old Victor, Smith, Oxweld/Purox/Linde/L-tec/ESAB and Airco are excellent quality covering all bases. Victor is most common in the field. An HVAC style tote is plenty for removing hardware so you'd be fine with one and their small torches are great for sheet metal work on your projects. Check out tinmantech for some gas welding pron.
As much as I like Dewalt, and have a lot of Dewalt stuff, Milwaukee is better. Torque tests have proven this with the impact comparisons. I own a couple of Milwaukee cordless as well an they beat the crap out of my Dewalts. Problem is, Milwaukee is much more expensive.
LOL! I think Milwaukee needs to give you tools to test... They do have a M18 Fuel 1" 2000 ft/lb beast, but it is really expensive. When I worked offshore, we had a ginormous air powered impact that took two men to operate. It had a steel bar that rested against the pipe to prevent it from turning due to the torque (you would not be able to hold it otherwise). Best!
2 things, guys that trust threads to self start sketch me out bigtime, those are mighty course threads so idk bjt still and 2, aint that a bitch when you drop your can and put a hole in it?
The moral of the story is use anti-seize on everything. Never leave a thread without anti-seize.
AMEN!
Absolutely - my golden rule no.1 for everything I take apart is it always goes back together with antiseize!!
NEVERSEEZE!!!
Also remember LOCTITE ACTS AS ANTI-SEIZE by excluding moisture intrusion. It resists vibration too which is why I use red gel on my air compressor NPT threaded connections.
Rust strips and breaks hardware.
Alright, help settle a friendly dispute we've had ongoing for over 20 years around here. Copper based or aluminum based anti-seize? I personally don't want aluminum in touch steel. Thoughts?
Thank you for sharing your work with all of us. As if your work is not hard enough you do it all with one hand so you can video it. You are the man.
I learn something during almost every video Zach. Thanks for the time and efforts. Best Wishes to You and Your Family.
Thanks.
Thanks for the video Zach.
Great Video! Perseverance! Creative Problem Solving!! Well Done!!
Thanks.
You avoided picking up an Olympic weight. 🏋 Works for me😸
Cool seeing some old EMSCo epquipment . I use to rebuild their Mud pumps and Roll tables,Swivels .
Hi Zach, i like how your "perpetual disasters" always turn out well. You make it all look so effortless and easy. I enjoy the closeup "being there" feel as you work on the pumping units. Nice to see an old EMSCO working in the fields. It is always a pleasure to see your work projects. You do an excellent job presenting them. Thanks always for sharing.
Thanks.
Ole Emsco, unit!❤
Milwaukee tools are by far the best 😂 keep up the hard work
Keep it coming no matter if you think it's good content or not. Feed the monster
Yeah those bolts were probably damaged by the slapping of the weights.
The amount of rust blowing out of that nut was amazing.
Cool video, Zach! I'm still waiting for the full-length video on how to set the counterweights. Take those bolts out, clean them good with a wire brush, tap and die, then spooey them up with some anti-seize!
I've said this before on a previous video, but considering all the work you do traveling around servicing these pumps, you need to build yourself a truck with a service bed!! It could carry all the tools you need out in the field along with a torch set, air compressor, generator, and even a small swivel boom that could lift that weight and put it back together. You could even mount a good vice on the back.
I'm going to explain this in a video.
@@TheZachLife -- Cool, looking forward to the video!!
Emscos and nationals like that have the weirdest counter balance compared to your average weight
Usually when I'm forced to take a break from getting a fastener undone, I take a few seconds to soak it in penetrant (I like PB Blaster). Penetrant's best ally is time.
Youre one of the few people ive heard mention duty cycle.
2 videos released at the same time????? Love it!
One thing I find that helps with seized up nuts is to quench the threads with penetrating oil after heating the nut. It seems to draw some oil into the threads. Apply, lather, rinse, repeat. Never needed more that three cycles to get the job done..... but my nuts are much smaller than yours.
I gotta say that Milwaukee is one rough ole boy!!!
hello Zack, hope all is good in Texas, cheers from Florida, Paul
Gloom despair and agony on me if it wern't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all.
Persistence applied in a copious dose ... Congratulations ! ...
The voice overs really help 👌👌 better than the normal rambling lol. Keep up the good work 👍
Surprised you didn't put a old rachet and hammered on it. That usually works if the rachet doesn't crap out. Breaker bars work good too. Pretty sure you could fabricate a hammer wrench that has a square so you could use it on any socket
The other thing I think happens to Old buildings is actually the ground Rises every year.
Plant life dies breaks down leaves another layer that's like if Grandpa lost some quarters out in the yard 50 years ago if you want to find them now you'd have to dig them up I don't think they really sank they just got covered over.
I believe that.
We, the Earth, gets a really thin layer of Cosmic dust every year
You impacted the crap out of it! I’ve never been more proud of you! 👍🏻
Lol
The proper oil for lubing things is the lube that's coming out of a can with a hole in it and you're rushing to lube everything in sight with it before the propellant runs out.
Hahaha
I'm sure the smashed threads didn't help. Thats the best advertizement for a tool I've ever seen!
Dunk those bolts in Never Sleaze. A buddy picked up one of the "yellow brand" 750ftlb electric impactors. 14 million gigawatt battery, blah, blah. A double fisted Hand held that you can gun Commercial truck lugs off with. Had to remove some upright bunks. 1.50" bolts and nuts. It was popping the seized bolts right in two. Kablooey!, Broke another!. Damn!. The 1 inch spline drive Ingersoll Rand is feeling left out. Thanks Zach!.
The trailers I repair use stainless steel bolts and nuts in the rear structure.
I feel your pain. Sometimes they just WILL NOT come apart. Even with a 2500lb/ft air impact.
I just finished binge watching your oil field playlist. Great information and well produced. I know a lot more about oil production than I did before.
You mentioned setting up your own SCADA to monitor your wells. I am curious if you have tried to setup anything to record the current usage.
It seems like that could contain a lot of useful information about the condition of the pump and the well and maybe catch problems earlier.
I am also curious if you have looked into using VFD's for your pump motors.
Cordless tools have sure made life a lot easier
100%
I like how you use an amp meter to measure the load on the motor, kind of smart for a good old boy
You have to in order to determin where to set the counter weights. You have a rod side and weight side. They counter eachother on the strokes. You want them within 2 amps apart or lower in order to not burn up the electric motor. The closer they are the longer it will run.
You just need a very long breaker bar. “Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.”― Archimedes
8:35..."PERSISTENCE PAYS OFF!!!"
Happy Saturday Zach, are you at all threaded by the wild fires?
We are good. Thanks.
Don't worry, that can will start leaking again as soon as you toss it in the toolbox...........
Hahaha yep.
3:09 I've had that happen a couple times! 🤣🤣
I use anti-seize on nearly everything. It is great as a high pressure thread lubricant, I use the standard silver on puller threads. And it stays in the threads which reduces break-away torque compared to dry, greased, or oiled threads.
Time to mount a compressor on the truck and get a big honkin pneumatic impact gun!
Do you have a spare nut. Lathe one side totally flat. So it may catch 1.5 threads. Set it up on your mill and drill some 1/8 or 3/16 thru the nut just outside of the threads. Now you have a drill guide to drill thru seized nuts without damaging the bolt threads so you can split the nut easily.
There’s nothing like a good hammer wrench to get a nuts attention!!
I need to find a full set.
I have had this happen with paint cans! The manufacturers are making them as thin a tin foil these days!
Two months down … time is money !
This is really a t-shirt printing press folks...!!!
Why destroy the Impact wrench ? Did you lose your cheater pipe ?
I've seen two different weights come off. One unit it broke the weight and broke the base of the unit, the other one it broke the arm of the unit.
As a former roustabout and well cementer, do you think I could come out to your place for about a week for an internship? Come on buddy, two willing capable and able hands for free!
Having watched enough internet lore.
The answer is ramen noodles and super glue. Oh and I forgot the baking soda to make the super glue cure faster but you get the point
Hahaha
That Milwaukee impact is a bad dude! Cheater pipe left the chat
Hi, Are you located near the fires in the panhandle?
M18 tools are great 👍
Max counter balance. Just like balancing a crankshaft.
Don't fix it, just bojicky it up, it'll probly work..... might not be too bad! Good luck buddy
How far are you away from a hardware store if you needed more antiseize spray?
You could use a big breaker bar
Zack ❤🇮🇳 & All we ❤ Zach Bro,🇮🇳 ❤ USA __🙂 we all students learning from our Teacher Zach Sir.. all the best for Final sessional Test Exam
Hahaha thanks for watching.
How would a hammer wrench and a 20# sledge do?
That's what I needed.
you need to make a 3/4 adapter to a slug wrench hit it with the 12 pounder
If you used a breaker bar and a long cheat bar instead of the impact, would you rotate the entire thing instead of loosening the bolts?
Possible. That 3/4 impact is amazingly strong.
Two videos in one day?
Texas size cheater time. Start with a 10-footer. I use a 6-footer on Honda crank damper bolts but then I'm not a Texan.
Go big or go home !
Jeepers and Wizz! Another pile of *s(tuff)* to make a silk purse out of. lol
10:02 After all that he throws it down. LOL Tools gotta earn their keep around there.
That had me laughing when he did that.
Hahaha
I was thinking of your shop flooding floor don't raise the floor lower the ground around your shop
I'm Giving Up on propane it's just not hot enough I use the yellow tank stuff map gas although I think it's fake fake map gas now I think it's propane with some oxygenation in it.
This is just an ad for milwaukee impacts
they way to do itis COOL the feck out of the whole thing. ice packs, fans, water... THEN use hot gun on the nut when its ald chilled. the heat gun will only heat the nut for expansion and will shift when impact wrenched. For bonus speed, do it in middle of night, when the whole desert is cold as feck.
put some air on your truck old air impact :)
How's yer API RP500 doing there with your naked torch?? 🤣
Hahaha
We used hammer wrench’s!
I find the duty cycle on high torques is about four 9 ah batteries straight in sunny 100+° weather before they smoke. So I think you were under the limit.
I will say the straight propane isn't good for much, but mapp with a turbo tip, and the oxy propane mini torch set are killer.
Hahaha I may look into a oxy propane.
@@TheZachLife have one of the mini 5lb grill tanks and a 20cuft tank. Don't have to worry about tipping the acetylene, and it will still get bolts cherry red.
Do thyself a favor and bring a small oxy-acetylene rig and leave propane-air baby torches for soldering. You'll save serious time and money. Those nuts would have been red hot in minutes then your impact would have snatched them.
I wash off my nuts (well, the machine's nuts) off completely with cutting torch if they're really bad. With a little practice you can miss the bolt threads and it's fun to show people who didn't know what a torch with a small cutting tip can really do. About 12 psi acetylene and 30+ on the oxygen does the deed but different welders like different settings. Heating the nut then applying penetrant as it cools is also an option. Every mechanic should practice nut removal before they need to do it on a workpiece. Used cylinders are cheap (I collect them at auctions and have more industrial gases than many welding shops) and easy to score in quantity so ya never run out on a weekend. Used quality US-made torches are cheap online and rarely need attention. Any common US regulator is easy to rebuild yourself with a kit but they're cheap to send out to and then someone else cleans them up.
Ive got a couple of sets but I"ve been thinking about picking up a really small set of bottle I could carry around.
Even the yellow bottle of MAPP gas, like the propane blue bottle puts out more heat in less time.
@@TheZachLife That's easy to do. I buy used of course since the small ones are easy to exchange. Another way is extra hose so it reaches from the truck and medium-sized cylinders. Acetylene is pricey lately and if you practice LP is easy to cut with but harder to see the flame. Any US-made torches soft parts will work with both fuels and while cheaper R-grade hose isn't rated for LP many people use it for many years. T-grade is what I buy new since it lasts much longer and will be less likely to dry out in your oil patch hot weather. LP cutting tips are the only difference and heating tips interchange. I prefer acetylene for precision work. You can braze with either but LP won't gas weld.
I collect vintage US torches and rebuild my own regs (not ancient ones but Victor SR series etc). Smith and many others can be rebuilt and kits are available online.
Torches are like guns (ergonomics are personal) but old Victor, Smith, Oxweld/Purox/Linde/L-tec/ESAB and Airco are excellent quality covering all bases.
Victor is most common in the field. An HVAC style tote is plenty for removing hardware so you'd be fine with one and their small torches are great for sheet metal work on your projects. Check out tinmantech for some gas welding pron.
Weighted socket may help
So we always after heating up the nut quench it with water. Try it next time you might be shocked 😳.
What happened to the video??
50/50 atf and acetone in a spray bottle
looks like he needs a dewalt impact then at least the rusted bolt would be the weak point.
As much as I like Dewalt, and have a lot of Dewalt stuff, Milwaukee is better. Torque tests have proven this with the impact comparisons. I own a couple of Milwaukee cordless as well an they beat the crap out of my Dewalts. Problem is, Milwaukee is much more expensive.
ever watch torque test channel for the last year?@@ironcladranchandforge7292
For the money I find Deep Creek from seafoam some of the best penetrating spray out there
They're going to burn the motor out up and down like that
It survived.
Andrew camarata enjoys destroying his tools and vehicles as well ! Lotsa dollars and NO Sense !!!
Howdy Zach
Howdy
Love ya buddy but you need a bigger impact lol
May have to but the 1 inch.
LOL! I think Milwaukee needs to give you tools to test... They do have a M18 Fuel 1" 2000 ft/lb beast, but it is really expensive. When I worked offshore, we had a ginormous air powered impact that took two men to operate. It had a steel bar that rested against the pipe to prevent it from turning due to the torque (you would not be able to hold it otherwise). Best!
I may pick one up.
Seems like you needed less impact and more hillbilly breaker bar.
Hahaha
No we didn't witness the can seal itself becuase the camera guy sucks lol
Hahaha
2 things, guys that trust threads to self start sketch me out bigtime, those are mighty course threads so idk bjt still and 2, aint that a bitch when you drop your can and put a hole in it?
Hahaha full send,.