Your equipment design, builds and filter testing videos are extremely informative and superbly detailed. Great job! As a retired cleanroom microbiologist responsible for contamination control, I urge you to investigate cleanroom HEPA filtration and especially the concept of laminar flow. Your shop build system starts to achieve this in a horizontal direction. For woodworkers that want to clean the air in their shops and especially remove the suspended micron and sub micron sized particles I suggest clean filtered air should always be released at the ceiling and particulate air intakes positioned at the bottom of the room. Your air diffusing "socks" would be great along the tops of 2 opposing walls with the intakes at the bottom or two diffusers splitting the ceiling in thirds with bottom intakes. With that design your filters can be at the intake, exit or anywhere in between. The goal is to always pull dirty air downwards and use the clean air to replace it so that you never breathe dirty air. I have always shuddered when I see air cleaners hung at ceiling height in a workshop. You never want to pull dirty air up. Basically a recipe for destroying your lungs. You are providing a wonderful service. Keep it going!
I really appreciate your dust control content. The information you've shared here and in other videos is really helpful. I can't wait for the next video!
That straightforward dust flow visualization is great to show why it's worth all that effort to go ducted. Do you paint with the fans on? When would you run the fans at low versus high?
Good question! I really just use these setups for dust control. Painting can involve very high VOCs and needs a lot of ventilation. People have purchased/built Model-As and Bs and wrapped them with some spray booth filter material. I have also used My Model-A as a temporary spray booth but only in a garage with the door open. The filters will remove paint from the air but not the solvent fumes. I run the 12" inline fan on the Model-B setup at 100%. It's pretty quiet with the carbon filter at the end of the line that helps muffle it. Sound is one reason to reduce the fan speed. Without a carbon filter or a diffuser inline fans can get quite loud. The dual 8" fans run at 80% because if they run any higher they develop a resonance that shakes the house quite a bit. The AC infinity fans are more well-balanced and powerful but do come at a higher cost. These may not produce the same effect on the structure but I haven't tested it. I may also try making some vibration isolators at some point. The 12" inline that sits on the top of Model-B is isolated from the house so it does not produce that effect.
When I watch videos like this I am always reminded of how I was shortchanged in the genius department 😅. This has to be the very best dust collection video series in the world !
This is the quality content that we all appreciate. The ingenuity & utility of these ideas are hard to match. You’re a wonderful person. Thanks for sharing!
I built a papr respirator using a 4” inline fan and ductwork. A grinding shield and force flex garbage bag as the containment shroud. Multiple layer filtration on the intake of the fan. Straps to a backpack. Could be a video idea for you as I’m sure you’d make something far nicer than I could with a 3d printer. Just tossing out a video idea. Thank you for making these incredible videos. They greatly are appreciated.
Cool idea! I have been using a 4" inline fan for a few small filtration needs for a while. Seems like there would be just enough air flow for a positive pressure helmet. I was doing a lot of grinding a few years ago and picked up a 3M full face respirator and it worked but was seriously uncomfortable after an hour or two. I might put this one on the to-do list. It's already a long list tho. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes sir, Terrabloom 4” fan is what I used available on amazon. 8 speed levels and plenty of adjustable volume. I used similar ducting that you used in this video. I believe the same aluminum duct with a thin rubber coating, and of course being in a 4” diameter. Comfort is quite nice with the fan strapped to the backpack as I need lite and agile in the knife making shop. All sorts of very fine dust is going to be present, and no matter how many half and full- face respirators I tried I would always get irritation. This completely cured the problem as I had hoped. The intake has a hepa filter I taped on and I am still experimenting with pre-filters at this time to see what I like best. All in I have what I believe to be a superior unit to some commercial units at a fraction of the cost… maybe 300$ (overestimated). I believe 3m is straight up robbing people with what their PaPR systems cost. Anyway, hope this helps in the future for you and your shop.
@@stevemiller6259 Thanks for all the info. I have been using the 4" iPower fan but it has a lot fewer features and is probably not as quiet. Will check it to that, for sure. Thanks for the details!
10:51 This channel is a masterclass exploration of the duality of man. 3D Handyman spends years contemplating, testing, and producing absolute apex-tier content showcasing the lengths he will go to protect his lungs from the likes of candle smoke and incense while at the same time giving nary a fuck for his own hands, only ever bothering to wear gloves when the industrial-grade solvents come out of the cabinet.
Wow your stuff is getting sophisticated. I can see this system being applied to a DIY whole house filtration - maybe 2nd floor rooms into an attic and back.
@@The3DHandymanI’m eyeing up our 70s house right now after watching this video. We have a large open space with a vaulted ceiling and open beams. I’m visualising ways to run ducting along ceiling beams without making it too ugly (although I’m more concerned with function than aesthetics). Why would we need this in our home? We have upcoming renovations, with who knows what nasties in the old building materials, a shedding dog and buildup of dust from no existing hvac system (and no enclosed ceiling or crawl space).
These are really well produced videos. You have given me some ideas for dust control during a home remodel. I look forward to future postings. By the way, this is the only channel for which I have turned on the alert bell.
Cloth ducts are actually amazing. Would be cool to see folks deploying the portable box filters but hooked to the central dust collection, and cloth ducts for air conditioning the work space.
Great update video. I’m really digging this new design! Looking forward to your weekend update videos, especially since my 14” CAT fan and filters JUST arrived 10 mins ago. May have to return those items and order the inline fans haha 😅 This new model would work far better in my small 315-sqft workshop/apartment than the beastie boy hanging from my ceiling. New weekend plans inbound…
Haha, I can imagine! My last apartment shop wouldn't have fit a Beastie Boy very well either. I'll have the Model-B videos up in a few hours with the kits available for purchase. The free plans for these will be on my website in a few days or so. Haven't made those yet but it shouldn't take too long. Thanks for the comment!
Hello, I've watched this video a few times and I still can't understand why the "Y" is there. At 12:04 it seems the fan by the Y is going to blow air back towards the yellow filter at the beginning of the run. I love this concept but I'm confused by the video. Could you explain how the flow works here? Thanks.
I guess the idea is to have input and output on opposite sides of the work space. Thanks for your excellent work. (I don't understand the Y fitting function. Looks like it's blowing both ways on a unidirectional circuit.)
That's about the size of the shop I used to work at. They had severe dust problems and didn't do anything about it. Painting and vinyl applications were a nightmare in there. A ducted system would be great but the cost would be quite high. I could do some 3D renders of a system like this at some point. The other option would be to run 10 or more of the Model-B style kits with Drum fans. I have gotten feedback from a few metal shops that use them with good results... if that's the sort of work you do "AllMetalMan"
@@The3DHandyman Thank you very much for the response. You've done a great job with your videos and channel. We are a custom metal fabrication company in Virginia.
hoping thru enough exposure of knowledge housing might try and standardize this. Really could see life expectancy increasing if filtration became whole-house common practice
That would be a fine goal! I thought about making an adapter to use the central air system when the AC isn't running, but I would need to consult an HVAC tech before I get into that. There are a lot of potential issues with tapping into any system. Thanks for the comment!
Absolutely love the channel, a ton of great information, thank you so much. So after watching most of your air filtration videos, ducts seem to be the "best" but for an enclosed / indoor type space. Does this design make sense for a large garage? Which set-up would you recommend for a 3 car garage (three single car doors) when i only work in one?
I love this info!!! which of these systems do you recommend if u a use garage and almost always works with the door open and a window open in the back of the garage?
I am wondering what are the steps I would need to take to adapt this workbench setting to a kitchen setting… I realized my commercial solution atop my cooking area can hardly generate any cfm.
This may be a dumb question... but what if you used 3 inline fans? 4? Does that increase the CFM and thus the ACH? What if you brought your catapillar design into the room?
I like it! Thanks for doing all this testing & designing. Maybe a dumb question, but is this effective for smoke? Like fumes from grinding & welding metal? If not, is there something I could add to make it work for that?
That's a fine question! It will work with both of those smoke types. I believe welding fumes are somewhat large particles and should be mostly captured by MERV 14 HVAC filters. Same for grinding dust. I'd keep the filter well clear of any slag though. If you run the duct from the fan/filters over to a secondary MERV 15 canister, this will further reduce any ultra fine particles. HEPA filters start at MERV 16, so it's still a bit short of that, but it's the next best thing. Good ventilation may also be necessary with some types of welding due to the gasses it can let off. Carbon filters may not deal with that issue to an acceptable degree.
Thanks for the reply! I’ll still be sure to avoid welding anything zinc-coated (or do it outside) but it’s good to know a filtration system can work for regular welding. I do both wood & metal work so would love to have just one system to keep the air clean no matter what I’m doing.
I will be listing the Claw later this week. I have 2 standard sizes of hose attachment but I don't think either works with the Festool. I can go over to the shop that I filmed some of my videos at to test out the fit on that machine. Is the one at the beginning of this video the one you have? th-cam.com/video/eYOvnqoW4H0/w-d-xo.html Message me on Etsy with a reply
@@The3DHandyman Will do, thanks! and yes, that's the festool I have. I can do a regular 2.5" vacuum hose, I just like that the festool has the hepa filter built in so less fine dust recirculation.
Great videos! Thanks for making these and doing the work. Seriously considering buying the kit from ya now and setting this up in my garage workshop. I could print all the printed parts. One idea is to make a kit without the printed parts and let the buyer print them. Not sure how much time and money that would save you. Will the "claw" be released as an STL to print? I saw the other comment saying you'd be selling it on Etsy, I assume that'll be the printed part. Cheers
Thanks for watching! At the moment, I'll be doing the printing. For the Model-B kits, the cost of the printed parts is relatively small compared to the other raw material costs and shipping expenses. I may do a download at some point for The Claw, though it may actually be more expensive for the end user because it's best printed in an expensive conductive filament and that not something most would have on hand. I'll get into that whole thing in the Model-E video.
@@henryhellbusch155 The static build up issue took me a few months to get to the bottom of. Until then I was shooting lightning bolts out of my fingers. Didn't feel like a superhero tho I'll probably start up downloads for the parts when I am able to get that new CNC machine paid for. Might be a minute 👍
Excellent presentation. Thank you. I nerd out on this filter stuff and have filters all over the house. I would like to have an affordable meter that would semi-accurately measure PM2.5 and PM10 in the house and outside. This would allow me to see if my filters are actually working and/or the media needs to be replaced. It seems like a real crap shoot on the web and amazon as to what units actually work with reviews all over the place for most of them with many appearing to be garbage. Would appreciate your ideas on meters. Would also appreciate your thoughts on knowing when the filter media is restrictive and should be replaced. I have the 3M MPR2800 in my filter boxes and HVAC and I am fearful that I unnecessarily replace them too often.
Thank you! The most conclusive way to know when to replace the filters would be with a monometer. I got one of these last year but haven't had a chance to test it out. I will be doing a "dirty filter" episode in the next month or so with rigorous testing on dirty filters. This is important with your AC because if the filter is too restrictive it can have negative effects on your blower motor or furnace, or it can cause your AC to ice up in the summer. As for filter boxes, these will last a long time before replacement is needed (6 months - 1 year+ depending on how much dust there is to suck up). They can get really caked with dust before it's time to replace them. That can not be all that good looking though, so that's part of the benefit to doing a pre-filter over the top of the filter. You can clean off the unsightly/large dust and let the expensive MERV 14 filter handle only the ultra fine particles. That video should be out later this week. Good call on the 3Ms they are the best 👍
@@The3DHandymanExcellent feedback so thank you. So - help on purchasing pre-filter media. I had never even thought of adding this to my box with 3 20x25 filters. Can you get panels of this stuff or sheets? Thoughts?
@@markmonroe7330 Sure thing! The material comes in a roll and it has to be cut to size. I am also thinking about offering precut sheets. Would that be something the interests you? I will be working on the material links this weekend if you want to do it yourself. The material is reusable between filter changes. There are a few material options that I will discuss in the new video. Also, on your particle meter question... it's hard to say what the best meter is without a super high quality monitor to test them against. I have a budget option that I use for my tests. It's probably not perfect but it's good enough for comparison purposes. I have looked into Temtop monitors amzn.to/43ys1Eq which seem to have decent reviews. I will probably get one of these for my VOC/carbon filter video to see if the two monitors compare when it comes to gasses.
Should I mount the filter close to my workbench and the exhaust farthest away, or put the filter farthest away the the clean exhaust near my workbench? I'm working in a 2-car garage and my workbench is in one corner and I'm thinking about running the ductwork to the opposite corner.
Wow, you are giving us a lot of great content to chew on! I have been thinking of a system to draw warm air, heated by a wood stove, out of a living room with a 12-foot ceiling, and run ducting down through a wall, into a cool basement. The air cleaning sounds like a huge bonus. any thoughts regarding duct size vs fan or run of duct. thanks
That's an interesting idea that I have not heard. Good concept. Going with all metal ducting would be best and if the warm/hot air did not pass through the fan, that would probably help extend the life of the fan, not to mention make it more safe. You could have a fan/filter box that runs to a duct that then wraps around the chimney and then goes down to the basement. That's some initial thoughts, but I cant realistically speak to it as I have no experience. Talking to an experienced HVAC pro would be a good idea prior to setting something like that up. Any time you are working with hot air, it can be a potential fire hazard. Best of luck!
I have a similar situation. I ran 8" round metal duct from peak of 12 ft ceiling (heated by wood stove) down through floor to garage shop below using AC infinity inline fan. The air entering shop is not as warm as I was expecting it to be but it makes the space comfortable to work in.
I may have missed it, but what exactly is the diffuser? Not what it does, but what IS it? Would the cloth filter bag from a dust collector work? I like the idea, but would be concerned about creating too much resistance.
I'm not making the Model-A kit at the moment but I will have a lot of new versions of the model-B kit coming out this weekend. These are cheaper than the Model-A and the cost of operation is also lower with 4 filters rather than 8. With the Drum fan and 20x30in filters, the performance of the A and B kits are identical. The video will actually have a bit were I explain that. Let me know what you think of the new kit or if you still like the A kit more.
For the inline fans, does the noise mostly come from the fan itself? I have some unused, enclosed (drywall, studs, fiberglass batts) space under the steps in my garage. I’m wondering if I could put the inline fan in there and run ducting. Would that make it much quieter to run?
@@The3DHandyman I should've said cube/box filters. I mean your model a filters, but with the fan on the bottom instead of on the top. I am sorry, my previous reply was quite confusing. Just one cube filter, but with the fan blowing out of the bottom of the box. On the video, the fan in the cube filters is on the top. You would off course, have to put them into some kind of stand.
@@carlosarthurpetry3674 Ah got yah. I will have a new version of the Model-B coming out soon that is designed for a ceiling mount. I am going with a smaller fan than the Caterpillar fan that makes it easier to hang on a wall or on a ceiling. As for an upside down Model-A, That should work just fine. I believe some people have tried it but I haven't gotten feedback on how it went from any of them. Id think that the overall performance may be better if the fan is at least 3 feet away from the ground to allow for a bit more air flow.
Another advantage to this "upside down" configuration is that the filter stack dust intake could be higher. This would allow the offending particles to be captured prior to gravity taking them into the area where you are doing all of that pesky breathing stuff.. Kinda' late if you're only catching particles that have dropped past your nose and mouth and are near your knees. Could also leave room for an exhaust diverter or diffuser. Defective thinking???
Great question! For the ducted design, it's best to put the inlet and outlet on opposite sides of the room or opposite corners. If you have a work area where most of your dust is made (like just one side of the room), then you could put the inlet and outlet on either side of that area. Hope that helps!
@@The3DHandyman That helps! Thank you! I appreciate your science knowledge on specific air quality measurements and particular designs to create absolute efficiency, and was specifically curious about if you have thought of a different filter designs and arrangements, like a sphere for instance being a good filter method to increase air flow rates, potentially allowing for increases in CFM counts, and what would be the best?
Buy "pointed" I mean the direction of airflow. If the fan is pointed up the air flows upwards, if it is pointed down the air flows downwards, and so on 👍
I'll have all the parts for this kit listed in a week or so. I've already got a few ready to do. Message me on Esty if you want one before they go live. www.etsy.com/shop/The3DHandyman
Here are the links to the pre-filter material Maximum efficiency (smallest holes, clogs quickly) 63 micron opening size (0.024in, 0.063mm) Color: Yellow amzn.to/4cCDEy4 High Efficiency (larger holes, clogs less quickly) 105 micron opening size (0.041in, 0.105mm) Color: White amzn.to/4cCDG9a Black Duct Tape. Any standard Duct Tape will work amzn.to/49gSGH4 If you want to use this on a cartridge filter, here is the link to The Claw www.etsy.com/listing/1691674870
This is the kind of niche content that I live for
I truly appreciate your hate for dust, and of course the content you produce!
Your equipment design, builds and filter testing videos are extremely informative and superbly detailed. Great job!
As a retired cleanroom microbiologist responsible for contamination control, I urge you to investigate cleanroom HEPA filtration and especially the concept of laminar flow. Your shop build system starts to achieve this in a horizontal direction. For woodworkers that want to clean the air in their shops and especially remove the suspended micron and sub micron sized particles I suggest clean filtered air should always be released at the ceiling and particulate air intakes positioned at the bottom of the room. Your air diffusing "socks" would be great along the tops of 2 opposing walls with the intakes at the bottom or two diffusers splitting the ceiling in thirds with bottom intakes. With that design your filters can be at the intake, exit or anywhere in between. The goal is to always pull dirty air downwards and use the clean air to replace it so that you never breathe dirty air.
I have always shuddered when I see air cleaners hung at ceiling height in a workshop. You never want to pull dirty air up. Basically a recipe for destroying your lungs.
You are providing a wonderful service. Keep it going!
New content coming out all week! Links and listings coming later today.
Link for the screen print material dust jack off?
I really appreciate your dust control content. The information you've shared here and in other videos is really helpful. I can't wait for the next video!
That straightforward dust flow visualization is great to show why it's worth all that effort to go ducted. Do you paint with the fans on? When would you run the fans at low versus high?
Good question! I really just use these setups for dust control. Painting can involve very high VOCs and needs a lot of ventilation. People have purchased/built Model-As and Bs and wrapped them with some spray booth filter material. I have also used My Model-A as a temporary spray booth but only in a garage with the door open. The filters will remove paint from the air but not the solvent fumes.
I run the 12" inline fan on the Model-B setup at 100%. It's pretty quiet with the carbon filter at the end of the line that helps muffle it. Sound is one reason to reduce the fan speed. Without a carbon filter or a diffuser inline fans can get quite loud. The dual 8" fans run at 80% because if they run any higher they develop a resonance that shakes the house quite a bit. The AC infinity fans are more well-balanced and powerful but do come at a higher cost. These may not produce the same effect on the structure but I haven't tested it. I may also try making some vibration isolators at some point. The 12" inline that sits on the top of Model-B is isolated from the house so it does not produce that effect.
When I watch videos like this I am always reminded of how I was shortchanged in the genius department 😅. This has to be the very best dust collection video series in the world !
This is the quality content that we all appreciate. The ingenuity & utility of these ideas are hard to match. You’re a wonderful person. Thanks for sharing!
I built a papr respirator using a 4” inline fan and ductwork. A grinding shield and force flex garbage bag as the containment shroud. Multiple layer filtration on the intake of the fan. Straps to a backpack. Could be a video idea for you as I’m sure you’d make something far nicer than I could with a 3d printer. Just tossing out a video idea. Thank you for making these incredible videos. They greatly are appreciated.
Cool idea! I have been using a 4" inline fan for a few small filtration needs for a while. Seems like there would be just enough air flow for a positive pressure helmet.
I was doing a lot of grinding a few years ago and picked up a 3M full face respirator and it worked but was seriously uncomfortable after an hour or two. I might put this one on the to-do list. It's already a long list tho. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes sir, Terrabloom 4” fan is what I used available on amazon. 8 speed levels and plenty of adjustable volume. I used similar ducting that you used in this video. I believe the same aluminum duct with a thin rubber coating, and of course being in a 4” diameter. Comfort is quite nice with the fan strapped to the backpack as I need lite and agile in the knife making shop. All sorts of very fine dust is going to be present, and no matter how many half and full- face respirators I tried I would always get irritation. This completely cured the problem as I had hoped. The intake has a hepa filter I taped on and I am still experimenting with pre-filters at this time to see what I like best. All in I have what I believe to be a superior unit to some commercial units at a fraction of the cost… maybe 300$ (overestimated). I believe 3m is straight up robbing people with what their PaPR systems cost. Anyway, hope this helps in the future for you and your shop.
@@stevemiller6259 Thanks for all the info. I have been using the 4" iPower fan but it has a lot fewer features and is probably not as quiet. Will check it to that, for sure.
Thanks for the details!
10:51 This channel is a masterclass exploration of the duality of man. 3D Handyman spends years contemplating, testing, and producing absolute apex-tier content showcasing the lengths he will go to protect his lungs from the likes of candle smoke and incense while at the same time giving nary a fuck for his own hands, only ever bothering to wear gloves when the industrial-grade solvents come out of the cabinet.
As someone who struggles with air filtration in his own workshop, this series of videos have been extremely helpful. Thanks!
Wow your stuff is getting sophisticated. I can see this system being applied to a DIY whole house filtration - maybe 2nd floor rooms into an attic and back.
I do like that idea. Might have to try it out one day
@@The3DHandymanI’m eyeing up our 70s house right now after watching this video. We have a large open space with a vaulted ceiling and open beams. I’m visualising ways to run ducting along ceiling beams without making it too ugly (although I’m more concerned with function than aesthetics).
Why would we need this in our home? We have upcoming renovations, with who knows what nasties in the old building materials, a shedding dog and buildup of dust from no existing hvac system (and no enclosed ceiling or crawl space).
These are really well produced videos. You have given me some ideas for dust control during a home remodel. I look forward to future postings. By the way, this is the only channel for which I have turned on the alert bell.
Cloth ducts are actually amazing. Would be cool to see folks deploying the portable box filters but hooked to the central dust collection, and cloth ducts for air conditioning the work space.
Great update video. I’m really digging this new design! Looking forward to your weekend update videos, especially since my 14” CAT fan and filters JUST arrived 10 mins ago. May have to return those items and order the inline fans haha 😅 This new model would work far better in my small 315-sqft workshop/apartment than the beastie boy hanging from my ceiling. New weekend plans inbound…
Haha, I can imagine! My last apartment shop wouldn't have fit a Beastie Boy very well either.
I'll have the Model-B videos up in a few hours with the kits available for purchase. The free plans for these will be on my website in a few days or so. Haven't made those yet but it shouldn't take too long.
Thanks for the comment!
Hello, I've watched this video a few times and I still can't understand why the "Y" is there. At 12:04 it seems the fan by the Y is going to blow air back towards the yellow filter at the beginning of the run. I love this concept but I'm confused by the video. Could you explain how the flow works here? Thanks.
I guess the idea is to have input and output on opposite sides of the work space. Thanks for your excellent work. (I don't understand the Y fitting function. Looks like it's blowing both ways on a unidirectional circuit.)
Haha. I got my 1st ratcheting wrench by accident from a camping awning...there's no going back!
Another home run video, keep up the good work!
Thank you!
I'm looking to build a system for a 5,000 square foot shop with around 30' high ceilings. Videos or info on larger systems would be great.
That's about the size of the shop I used to work at. They had severe dust problems and didn't do anything about it. Painting and vinyl applications were a nightmare in there. A ducted system would be great but the cost would be quite high. I could do some 3D renders of a system like this at some point. The other option would be to run 10 or more of the Model-B style kits with Drum fans. I have gotten feedback from a few metal shops that use them with good results... if that's the sort of work you do "AllMetalMan"
@@The3DHandyman Thank you very much for the response. You've done a great job with your videos and channel. We are a custom metal fabrication company in Virginia.
How does working with the garage door open affect filtration?
hoping thru enough exposure of knowledge housing might try and standardize this. Really could see life expectancy increasing if filtration became whole-house common practice
That would be a fine goal! I thought about making an adapter to use the central air system when the AC isn't running, but I would need to consult an HVAC tech before I get into that. There are a lot of potential issues with tapping into any system. Thanks for the comment!
Absolutely love the channel, a ton of great information, thank you so much. So after watching most of your air filtration videos, ducts seem to be the "best" but for an enclosed / indoor type space. Does this design make sense for a large garage? Which set-up would you recommend for a 3 car garage (three single car doors) when i only work in one?
Love the content keep up the great work!
I love this info!!! which of these systems do you recommend if u a use garage and almost always works with the door open and a window open in the back of the garage?
Love these builds
I am wondering what are the steps I would need to take to adapt this workbench setting to a kitchen setting… I realized my commercial solution atop my cooking area can hardly generate any cfm.
This may be a dumb question... but what if you used 3 inline fans? 4? Does that increase the CFM and thus the ACH? What if you brought your catapillar design into the room?
I like it! Thanks for doing all this testing & designing. Maybe a dumb question, but is this effective for smoke? Like fumes from grinding & welding metal? If not, is there something I could add to make it work for that?
That's a fine question! It will work with both of those smoke types. I believe welding fumes are somewhat large particles and should be mostly captured by MERV 14 HVAC filters. Same for grinding dust. I'd keep the filter well clear of any slag though. If you run the duct from the fan/filters over to a secondary MERV 15 canister, this will further reduce any ultra fine particles. HEPA filters start at MERV 16, so it's still a bit short of that, but it's the next best thing.
Good ventilation may also be necessary with some types of welding due to the gasses it can let off. Carbon filters may not deal with that issue to an acceptable degree.
Thanks for the reply! I’ll still be sure to avoid welding anything zinc-coated (or do it outside) but it’s good to know a filtration system can work for regular welding. I do both wood & metal work so would love to have just one system to keep the air clean no matter what I’m doing.
@@Jer_Schmidt Any time. Makes perfect sense to me!
Do you also sell "the claw"? If you do, a way to attach it to a festool dust extractor would be awesome.
I will be listing the Claw later this week. I have 2 standard sizes of hose attachment but I don't think either works with the Festool. I can go over to the shop that I filmed some of my videos at to test out the fit on that machine. Is the one at the beginning of this video the one you have? th-cam.com/video/eYOvnqoW4H0/w-d-xo.html Message me on Etsy with a reply
@@The3DHandyman Will do, thanks! and yes, that's the festool I have. I can do a regular 2.5" vacuum hose, I just like that the festool has the hepa filter built in so less fine dust recirculation.
does the up config improve if it is positioning higher -- where the drum fan is maybe only 2 feet from the ceiling?
Great video! Question about canister filter, those can works in either end of the ducts? as intake and exhaust?
Great videos! Thanks for making these and doing the work. Seriously considering buying the kit from ya now and setting this up in my garage workshop. I could print all the printed parts. One idea is to make a kit without the printed parts and let the buyer print them. Not sure how much time and money that would save you. Will the "claw" be released as an STL to print? I saw the other comment saying you'd be selling it on Etsy, I assume that'll be the printed part. Cheers
Thanks for watching! At the moment, I'll be doing the printing. For the Model-B kits, the cost of the printed parts is relatively small compared to the other raw material costs and shipping expenses. I may do a download at some point for The Claw, though it may actually be more expensive for the end user because it's best printed in an expensive conductive filament and that not something most would have on hand. I'll get into that whole thing in the Model-E video.
@@The3DHandyman ah fair I didn't think about static build up on the claw. But excuses for buying more filaments is always good right? :-)
@@henryhellbusch155 The static build up issue took me a few months to get to the bottom of. Until then I was shooting lightning bolts out of my fingers. Didn't feel like a superhero tho
I'll probably start up downloads for the parts when I am able to get that new CNC machine paid for. Might be a minute 👍
Excellent presentation. Thank you. I nerd out on this filter stuff and have filters all over the house. I would like to have an affordable meter that would semi-accurately measure PM2.5 and PM10 in the house and outside. This would allow me to see if my filters are actually working and/or the media needs to be replaced. It seems like a real crap shoot on the web and amazon as to what units actually work with reviews all over the place for most of them with many appearing to be garbage. Would appreciate your ideas on meters. Would also appreciate your thoughts on knowing when the filter media is restrictive and should be replaced. I have the 3M MPR2800 in my filter boxes and HVAC and I am fearful that I unnecessarily replace them too often.
Thank you! The most conclusive way to know when to replace the filters would be with a monometer. I got one of these last year but haven't had a chance to test it out. I will be doing a "dirty filter" episode in the next month or so with rigorous testing on dirty filters. This is important with your AC because if the filter is too restrictive it can have negative effects on your blower motor or furnace, or it can cause your AC to ice up in the summer.
As for filter boxes, these will last a long time before replacement is needed (6 months - 1 year+ depending on how much dust there is to suck up). They can get really caked with dust before it's time to replace them. That can not be all that good looking though, so that's part of the benefit to doing a pre-filter over the top of the filter. You can clean off the unsightly/large dust and let the expensive MERV 14 filter handle only the ultra fine particles. That video should be out later this week.
Good call on the 3Ms they are the best 👍
@@The3DHandymanExcellent feedback so thank you. So - help on purchasing pre-filter media. I had never even thought of adding this to my box with 3 20x25 filters. Can you get panels of this stuff or sheets? Thoughts?
@@markmonroe7330 Sure thing! The material comes in a roll and it has to be cut to size. I am also thinking about offering precut sheets. Would that be something the interests you?
I will be working on the material links this weekend if you want to do it yourself. The material is reusable between filter changes. There are a few material options that I will discuss in the new video.
Also, on your particle meter question... it's hard to say what the best meter is without a super high quality monitor to test them against. I have a budget option that I use for my tests. It's probably not perfect but it's good enough for comparison purposes. I have looked into Temtop monitors amzn.to/43ys1Eq which seem to have decent reviews. I will probably get one of these for my VOC/carbon filter video to see if the two monitors compare when it comes to gasses.
Should I mount the filter close to my workbench and the exhaust farthest away, or put the filter farthest away the the clean exhaust near my workbench? I'm working in a 2-car garage and my workbench is in one corner and I'm thinking about running the ductwork to the opposite corner.
Please get an automotive smoke machine I think that is the only thing missing. Possibly stacking merv8 and 11 on the inlet and 14 on the exhaust side?
Wow, you are giving us a lot of great content to chew on! I have been thinking of a system to draw warm air, heated by a wood stove, out of a living room with a 12-foot ceiling, and run ducting down through a wall, into a cool basement. The air cleaning sounds like a huge bonus. any thoughts regarding duct size vs fan or run of duct. thanks
That's an interesting idea that I have not heard. Good concept. Going with all metal ducting would be best and if the warm/hot air did not pass through the fan, that would probably help extend the life of the fan, not to mention make it more safe. You could have a fan/filter box that runs to a duct that then wraps around the chimney and then goes down to the basement.
That's some initial thoughts, but I cant realistically speak to it as I have no experience. Talking to an experienced HVAC pro would be a good idea prior to setting something like that up. Any time you are working with hot air, it can be a potential fire hazard.
Best of luck!
I have a similar situation. I ran 8" round metal duct from peak of 12 ft ceiling (heated by wood stove) down through floor to garage shop below using AC infinity inline fan. The air entering shop is not as warm as I was expecting it to be but it makes the space comfortable to work in.
I may have missed it, but what exactly is the diffuser? Not what it does, but what IS it? Would the cloth filter bag from a dust collector work? I like the idea, but would be concerned about creating too much resistance.
I just went down this rabbit hole, I think it may just be a body pillowcase of some sort. Not sure of the preferred material though.
When is the Model A kit going to come out. Really want to purchase this kit rather than having to make it.
I'm not making the Model-A kit at the moment but I will have a lot of new versions of the model-B kit coming out this weekend. These are cheaper than the Model-A and the cost of operation is also lower with 4 filters rather than 8. With the Drum fan and 20x30in filters, the performance of the A and B kits are identical. The video will actually have a bit were I explain that.
Let me know what you think of the new kit or if you still like the A kit more.
For the inline fans, does the noise mostly come from the fan itself? I have some unused, enclosed (drywall, studs, fiberglass batts) space under the steps in my garage. I’m wondering if I could put the inline fan in there and run ducting. Would that make it much quieter to run?
Have you tested the box filter in upside down position? I mean, the box with filters on top and the filters on the bottom? Does it affect the results?
So like a cube of filters on both sides of the fan? Just want to make sure I am picturing this correctly
@@The3DHandyman I should've said cube/box filters. I mean your model a filters, but with the fan on the bottom instead of on the top. I am sorry, my previous reply was quite confusing.
Just one cube filter, but with the fan blowing out of the bottom of the box. On the video, the fan in the cube filters is on the top. You would off course, have to put them into some kind of stand.
@@carlosarthurpetry3674 Ah got yah. I will have a new version of the Model-B coming out soon that is designed for a ceiling mount. I am going with a smaller fan than the Caterpillar fan that makes it easier to hang on a wall or on a ceiling.
As for an upside down Model-A, That should work just fine. I believe some people have tried it but I haven't gotten feedback on how it went from any of them. Id think that the overall performance may be better if the fan is at least 3 feet away from the ground to allow for a bit more air flow.
Another advantage to this "upside down" configuration is that the filter stack dust intake could be higher. This would allow the offending particles to be captured prior to gravity taking them into the area where you are doing all of that pesky breathing stuff.. Kinda' late if you're only catching particles that have dropped past your nose and mouth and are near your knees. Could also leave room for an exhaust diverter or diffuser. Defective thinking???
Seem logical to me! The wall mount can be positioned at exactly head height for that sort of effect.
What is the most efficient positioning to place in a room with one door typically located?
Great question! For the ducted design, it's best to put the inlet and outlet on opposite sides of the room or opposite corners.
If you have a work area where most of your dust is made (like just one side of the room), then you could put the inlet and outlet on either side of that area.
Hope that helps!
@@The3DHandyman That helps! Thank you!
I appreciate your science knowledge on specific air quality measurements and particular designs to create absolute efficiency, and was specifically curious about if you have thought of a different filter designs and arrangements, like a sphere for instance being a good filter method to increase air flow rates, potentially allowing for increases in CFM counts, and what would be the best?
@@OhioDeepWoods I have thought about a lot but don't have much time to get to new designs at the moment. One day!
I don’t understand when you say things like “fan is pointed up”. Do you mean that the fan is oriented in exhaust or intake? I’m so confused. 😅
Buy "pointed" I mean the direction of airflow. If the fan is pointed up the air flows upwards, if it is pointed down the air flows downwards, and so on 👍
what's the diffuser part you used?
I'll have all the parts for this kit listed in a week or so. I've already got a few ready to do. Message me on Esty if you want one before they go live. www.etsy.com/shop/The3DHandyman
Is there a link to the screen printing material?
I should have those up this weekend. Sorry for the delay!
Here are the links to the pre-filter material
Maximum efficiency (smallest holes, clogs quickly)
63 micron opening size (0.024in, 0.063mm)
Color: Yellow
amzn.to/4cCDEy4
High Efficiency (larger holes, clogs less quickly)
105 micron opening size (0.041in, 0.105mm)
Color: White
amzn.to/4cCDG9a
Black Duct Tape. Any standard Duct Tape will work
amzn.to/49gSGH4
If you want to use this on a cartridge filter, here is the link to The Claw
www.etsy.com/listing/1691674870
Why not a ceiling mount whole house fan with an inlet filter and return ducting to maintain climate control
i always thought his voice was ai. He actually sounds like that
I have the same brain as he does, go deep or don't go at all.