Hey! I liked the music on this one. I like hearing guitar music while you build a guitar! 🙃 It is really coming together and looking more and more like a guitar. Some great tips.
Just had an idea for the cuts at 10:00, Drill a small hole in the pull saw at 2mm from the edge, slide a spring steel roll pin in it and place the flat sanding spring steel strip on the edge of the body so the saw pin has a support to ride on and you will cut to the perfect depth for the braces, just don't push down too hard!
Greenfield Guitars is the guitar luthier that uses the dainty sponges. That video has 8.7 million views. I'm guilty of watching it several times lol. Love watching your content as well. Very informative and your fun to watch! Peace and chicken grease my dude ✌
We now sell hand selected and resawn Tonewoods on our website! Each piece was found by Chris Alvarado, and almost always has a story to go along with it. Go check out the selection at www.driftwoodguitars.com/tonewood
You usually keep the speaker in until after the back is glued on it’s easy to remove it from the soundhole after because once you loosen it it comes apart into 3 pieces.
I have a question and a comment. You glue the front to the sides and then get the back done then glue it on. Compared to making the front and fitting to the side, don't glue it on yet, then prepping the back and fitting it to the side, also don't glue it yet, then gluing the front on as normal then gluing the back on after. It would make it easier the fit the back on cause of ease of access to the back for fitting. just a suggestion. Would it change the quality and tone by switching around 2 steps in the built process? Just wondering and waiting to watch the rest of this build. Thanks for all you and Matt are doing. John
It might go more easily when sliding the back or front onto those dowels,if you pencil some graphite into the location holes.Thus providing some lubrication to ease sliding them down into place....................Just a thought........................
What an amazing series. 2 questions: Wouldn't it be good, at least to coserve weight, to take off some wood from the inside of that bevel, before closing the sound box? Why put the back braces to be bullet shaped on the cnc, while doing something else. Then you can just scallop by hand? Not a builder though... so apologies if the questions are stupid from reasons not quite obvious to me :)
I love following this build. Question: Why the light colored wood for the ladder bracing vs. the darker wood for the top bracing? Does the wood type make a difference in voicing? Cost? The contrast with the back is striking, but I'm curious to see it through the sound hole.
In Episode #3 of this build, at about 6:30 in, Chris talks about using the same ancient spruce as the top. The colour matches because it's from the same tree. The back uses the usual wood. A 'regular' Sitka spruce top would have braces just as white as the back of this guitar.
@@williamsburgasylum my guess he only had enough wood for one side (that wood is very pricey) and wanted the same wood for the top for resonance reasons
@@williamsburgasylum Cost and VERY limited quantity. The back got the regular Sitka spruce, which is what is ordinarily used. It's very white in appearance now, because it was just sanded. In 20 or 30 years, it will have oxidized to a darker colour, if that makes a difference. Personally, I like the look. To each their own.
Yah!! My question regarding the underside of the workbench made it on the next episode!!! Now do one of those satisfying video and take a chisel and scrap off half a section!!
You do have the coolest templates….and clamps….and tools….super clean and organized shop, too. I watch some other luthier channels where their work benches have “stuff” (like screws, pieces of wood, etc) all over them and they just slide it over to make space for whatever they are working on. Makes me cringe.
thank you Matt and Chris. question please on the bridge plate i understand that the ball end of the strings eat it . why can we not use 1/8" brass plate there ? would it work?
Hi. Brass is way heavier than wood. If you place a piece of metal underneath the bridge, you are probably damping most of the resonance of the board, and more importantly, not allowing the vibration of the strings to transfer properly to the top of the guitar throughout the bridge. In short, it will be a very sturdy guitar that probably will not sound very good, most likely with low volume and poor tone. Is the game of trade offs, you have to choose between more resistance or more resonance. Finding the limit is one of the secrets.
@@TheGuitarsquatch Carbon fiber is a great material, but extremely hard to cut and pierce, and you might need very special tools to do so. In theory, giving the proper shape to a bridge plate without those tools, could be a... nightmare. Also, you would need to test several glues to see if any of those can create a strong bond between the top and your plate. Then, you will need to drill the carbon fiber on place through your top, going through the carbon fiber itself, so you might risk damaging the top with the drill due to displacement of the drill bit. I guess nobody uses it for practical reasons? If you could find a company that can custom make a carbon fiber bridge plate with holes, that would be an awesome solution I believe.
In English/ Australian language praising one's self is like bragging. So, yo say it came out "super good" is seen as self-praise or bragging. Be mindful of this. ( Terry from Oz).
That little chip in the lining would drive me absolutely bonkers. I know it would be structurally fine, but I could never forget it's there.
Yeah me too. I fixed it before we closed her up.
@@DriftwoodGuitars bad luck it chipped in the one spot likely to be visible from the sound hole too!
I look forward to these videos all week! Thank you so much for making my evening that much better! :D
Hey! I liked the music on this one. I like hearing guitar music while you build a guitar! 🙃 It is really coming together and looking more and more like a guitar. Some great tips.
Just had an idea for the cuts at 10:00, Drill a small hole in the pull saw at 2mm from the edge, slide a spring steel roll pin in it and place the flat sanding spring steel strip on the edge of the body so the saw pin has a support to ride on and you will cut to the perfect depth for the braces, just don't push down too hard!
The sponges are available at craft stores. I got mine at Michael’s. They come in different sizes and are called stippling sponge
Its been a fun ride so far watching you do the craftsman thing!
Looking forward to the next episode
that little bonk at 2:12 super satisfying. i dont know why but it just itched the unitchable itch.
That was the guitars tap tone! I tapped the vice just a little and doooing, she rung like a bell.
Greenfield Guitars is the guitar luthier that uses the dainty sponges. That video has 8.7 million views. I'm guilty of watching it several times lol. Love watching your content as well. Very informative and your fun to watch! Peace and chicken grease my dude ✌
I used to watch it too. . But this dude really push the limits in a more diffrent aspect of the art of building a guitar
@@jerrylee087 I totally agree with you!👍
Aw damn, thanks guys!
We now sell hand selected and resawn Tonewoods on our website! Each piece was found by Chris Alvarado, and almost always has a story to go along with it. Go check out the selection at www.driftwoodguitars.com/tonewood
Soon there will be TWENTY-THOUSAND SUBSCRIBERS! Way to go!
Thanks! We’re pretty stoked about it!
Very cool! I guess you take the spreader blocks out of the inside through the soundhole?
I was thinking the same thing.
That's a beautiful box!
Dude the guitar is looking awesome.
Do you still need that cross support in for gluing? Or is it easier to take out before glue up?
You usually keep the speaker in until after the back is glued on it’s easy to remove it from the soundhole after because once you loosen it it comes apart into 3 pieces.
If you made those acrylic templates for sale, I'd buy them. A mold would be nice to have too.
I hope the spreader can come out through the sound hole! Sorry, I was yelling at the TV to no avail.
Yeah I would be interested in a template and mold set.
Excellent excellent! Closer to sound. I always wonder what the first song a guitar will write.
Guitars don't write songs, they inspire songs ...
I have a question and a comment.
You glue the front to the sides and then get the back done then glue it on.
Compared to making the front and fitting to the side, don't glue it on yet, then prepping the back and fitting it to the side, also don't glue it yet, then gluing the front on as normal then gluing the back on after.
It would make it easier the fit the back on cause of ease of access to the back for fitting. just a suggestion.
Would it change the quality and tone by switching around 2 steps in the built process?
Just wondering and waiting to watch the rest of this build.
Thanks for all you and Matt are doing.
John
Does the wood have to be cut a certain way or will the way there cut at a limber yard work thanks your videos are the bomb
It might go more easily when sliding the back or front onto those dowels,if you pencil some graphite into the location holes.Thus providing some lubrication to ease sliding them down into place....................Just a thought........................
Paste wax on the dowels and maybe shorten them a bit? Not sure if there is a reason to have them that long.
Noticing the rosette is installed on the top, but I don’t remember watching that video. Did I miss it on a previous episode?
What an amazing series.
2 questions:
Wouldn't it be good, at least to coserve weight, to take off some wood from the inside of that bevel, before closing the sound box?
Why put the back braces to be bullet shaped on the cnc, while doing something else. Then you can just scallop by hand?
Not a builder though... so apologies if the questions are stupid from reasons not quite obvious to me :)
Have you tried bees wax on the dowels? Maybe some plain chapstick.
Is there a clamp inside?
Yay!!!!
Ummm…you didn’t pull the clamps out before gluing the bottom….?
They have to stay in for rigidity. They come out through the sound hole after the glue is dry :)
Where is hole for diging out pick out this quittar???
Clear view at 2:15. Lol
Man that's so nice looking dark wood
I love following this build. Question: Why the light colored wood for the ladder bracing vs. the darker wood for the top bracing? Does the wood type make a difference in voicing? Cost? The contrast with the back is striking, but I'm curious to see it through the sound hole.
In Episode #3 of this build, at about 6:30 in, Chris talks about using the same ancient spruce as the top. The colour matches because it's from the same tree. The back uses the usual wood. A 'regular' Sitka spruce top would have braces just as white as the back of this guitar.
@@ErnieB That makes sense, but why not use the same wood for the back bracing is what I'm wondering.
@@williamsburgasylum my guess he only had enough wood for one side (that wood is very pricey) and wanted the same wood for the top for resonance reasons
@@williamsburgasylum Cost and VERY limited quantity. The back got the regular Sitka spruce, which is what is ordinarily used. It's very white in appearance now, because it was just sanded. In 20 or 30 years, it will have oxidized to a darker colour, if that makes a difference. Personally, I like the look. To each their own.
Cheers
Yah!! My question regarding the underside of the workbench made it on the next episode!!! Now do one of those satisfying video and take a chisel and scrap off half a section!!
Haha that’s a good idea!
19:10 Wait, if you leave that support jig in the body, how do you take it out when the back is closed?
Yeah me too
ever drop a pick in the sound hole? you get the support out the same way
WOT!!! Point the sound hole at the floor and shake? Won’t the strings get in the way. haha 🤪
It’s the Greenfield Guitar video where he uses the sponges.
You do have the coolest templates….and clamps….and tools….super clean and organized shop, too. I watch some other luthier channels where their work benches have “stuff” (like screws, pieces of wood, etc) all over them and they just slide it over to make space for whatever they are working on. Makes me cringe.
thank you Matt and Chris. question please on the bridge plate i understand that the ball end of the strings eat it . why can we not use 1/8" brass plate there ? would it work?
Hi. Brass is way heavier than wood. If you place a piece of metal underneath the bridge, you are probably damping most of the resonance of the board, and more importantly, not allowing the vibration of the strings to transfer properly to the top of the guitar throughout the bridge. In short, it will be a very sturdy guitar that probably will not sound very good, most likely with low volume and poor tone. Is the game of trade offs, you have to choose between more resistance or more resonance. Finding the limit is one of the secrets.
Nailed it Eduardo!
@@etestart thank you
Hmm, I wonder what carbon fiber might do as a replacement. Or perhaps a small strip along the length of where the ball ends make contact.
@@TheGuitarsquatch Carbon fiber is a great material, but extremely hard to cut and pierce, and you might need very special tools to do so. In theory, giving the proper shape to a bridge plate without those tools, could be a... nightmare. Also, you would need to test several glues to see if any of those can create a strong bond between the top and your plate. Then, you will need to drill the carbon fiber on place through your top, going through the carbon fiber itself, so you might risk damaging the top with the drill due to displacement of the drill bit. I guess nobody uses it for practical reasons? If you could find a company that can custom make a carbon fiber bridge plate with holes, that would be an awesome solution I believe.
That could make a decent video, get an inexpensive factory made guitar and voice it. Do a before and after demonstration. I've never seen that.
Do guitar sides have to be cut a certain way to be able to make sides of the of an instrurment
Its best that they are Quarter Sawn
@@DriftwoodGuitars I understand but will the other way work I have some purple poplar I just want make mountain dulcimer something simple
What a couple of your pieces of wood cost to make a dulcimer please thanks in advance
Me: why the flaps with the holes?
Also me: oh! Next guitar gets those!
You can use paraffin wax on your dowels, make life much easier !
I would love to see one of your guitars in the hands of Justin Johnson.
OK When he starts cutting on the sides of this guitar I had a small heart attack! I know he's professional, but I find it a little shocking anyway.
If I email you again, can I get a cad file of the template? Lol
Fiiirst
In English/ Australian language praising one's self is like bragging. So, yo say it came out "super good" is seen as self-praise or bragging. Be mindful of this. ( Terry from Oz).
Omg…🤦🏽
Uh yeah….