Sharpening A Table Saw Blade on the Table Saw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2024
- A quick and easy to make / use jig for sharpening carbide blades right on the table saw.
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A quick and easy to make / use jig for sharpening carbide blades right on the table saw.
▶️ Project plans for sale: ibuildit.ca/plans/
▶️Support the work I do on Locals:
ibuildit.locals.com/
▶️ Patreon:
www.patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
▶️ Join my Makers Mob for detailed build tutorials:
go.themakersmob.com/john-heisz-i-build-it/?via=ibuildit
Project build article:
ibuildit.ca/projects/how-to-sharpen-a-saw-blade/
What is the third blades use..?
Quick question, aren't the teeth on most miter saw blades have alternating angles? The way the footage shows you ignoring the angles made me confused. Not a personal attack, your blade your way.
@@stankolodin5586 your reply showed up because I commented also I'm just commenting to you on how sad it is that you have to do the same thing I do and tell everyone your not attacking them as a person I commented on a bigfoot enthusiast here in colo hes in colo also and every leaning branch and miners rock pile was left by bigfoot here is his reply if I had a dollar for every pussyfaced troll like you I would be Donald trump rich better safe than sorry I guess I've used full saws yours is a great question I've gotten no reply on mine I just wanted to know the purpose of the third blade in the video having never seen one any help?
Dull saws I meant to say or spell
@@danielcline7413 I'm more confused now.
I would add a stop on the table so each time you slide the jig forward to sharpen a tooth you hit a positive stop. This would make it so you don’t have to worry about running the blade into the grinding disk and assuring that you grind the whole tooth each time. Love this jig. It’s a great solution.
Genius, pure genius the setup is way faster and less complex than the actual sharpener I purchased a long time ago 😀
BucktownPSD So you have thought about this, eh?
Couple magnetic switches would work well on a cast iron table.
That’s a clever jig and not complicated. Your jigs are always effective without unnecessary additions and can be built without special tools.😊
Just a rando endorsement here... What John says about his plans is actually understating them a little.
I've actually bought a few of his plans, as well as some plans from some other TH-camrs. John's plans set a standard by which I wish others could meet. They are simple, concise, easy to follow, and most even include annotations for common pitfalls you might encounter along the way.
You're such a clever dude. That is an extremely simple solution for a very common problem. I have a stack of about 10 or 12 blades that I have been hanging onto in hopes of getting them all touched up. Thanks John! You saved me a bunch of money just now.
Harbour freight sells a blade sharpener 👍😊
@@colinstace1758 Yeah, I've checked it out and it looked too much like their chainsaw blade sharpener, which I have. It uses a lot of the same ideas, and I would imagine, materials, for indexing and such. I was just too dissatisfied with the chainsaw blade sharpener to go that route again and for $55, I figured it was just a matter of time before someone smarter than me came up with an easier way to do it. Harbor Freight has some good deals sometimes they have some neat tools that a lot of the other big box stores just don't carry, so I shop there frequently, but for this purpose, I just wasn't interested. Thanks for letting me know about it though.
Genius!
I worked at a lumber yard one summer during college, and we had this radial arm saw. I used it occasionally, and never really thought much about it. Then one day, it got a new sawblade. That damn thing cut through wood so easily that the wood basically put up no resistance. It was literally like a hot knife through butter. On that day, I learned the importance of a sharp sawblade.
For as much flack as radial arm saws get about being dangerous and all of that, it is still one of my favorite tools to use in my shop. When you want to really cut something tough, that is my go-to weapon of choice.
Ok, this is great! I have been looking at different ways to sharpen my blades at home. So many I've seen either wiggle or they are super expensive. This is pretty simple and to the point. I could see adding a stop block to make sure the jig cannot go too far forward.
You could put like a .005 feeler gauge in the stop to set the depth and then remove it to evenly take that amount off. May not matter though.
I swear, your mind never stops with the great ideas. I was wanting this same thing but I had no idea how to go about it even after a couple of TH-cam videos. I ended up buying a Harbor Freight special and although it works it is a pain to set up cause every blade is different. This looks like something I could do and not hate using it. I am definitely gonna try this. Thanks for making the these videos and keep up the great work!!
I bought a sharpening disk that fits my angle grinder with the idea to build an adjustable ( overcomplicated ) sharpening jig ! Guess i give this a try first , it has way less moving Parts and way less space to store away. 👌 Thanks John , like always clean and efficiënt AND practical build.👍
I had been thinking about using my wet tile saw to see if it would sharpen saw blades. This has given me a couple of ideas to work on. Thanks
Hello John. Just built this over the last week (had some problems fitting & adapting a Diamond wheel on the arbor), and sharpened a 24tooth ripping blade with it. It already had 1 tooth missing & one halfway chipped off, but after the sharpening it cut throug 60mm (2 & 3/8) ash wood like butter. I guess i won't send a sawblade out for sharpening anymore :)
Please t ok me where to get the diamond blade
Awesome job John. Thanks for letting us get in your head awesome place to be!!
If you're cutting through maple without burning, you've done a good job. That passed the test with ease.
Ingenuous! Great idea John. I dub the "The Prince of Plywood" or "The Sultan of Sheet Goods" I am always amazed and learn something from your videos, great job and excellent video. thank you John.
My father has 90 dull saw blades of all types. I know what I'm gonna be doing this week Haha
You never cease to amaze me John! Thanks for the great video.
Great =D The indexer should be one tooth to the left of the blade. Grind the first tooth carefully by eye, then all the teeth will get the same grind =D
Thanks for the bonus tip.
Technically he could still do it that way be moving his first ground tooth to the indexer right away
Пожалуй, это одна из лучших и практичных идей по части самоделок для заточки дисков. При этом можно менять угол заточки передней грани. Очень легко доработать для заточки фрез. Спасибо за идею.
Excellent! Absolutely going to make one of these, it'll pay for itself
Great job on the sharpening jig John! Thanks for always sharing with us!💖👌😎JP
Excellent job John!! woodworkers can’t always afford to go out and buy brand new blades or even take them in to get them sharpened. You definitely offer a very good solution to getting our saw blade sharpened!!
Always a pleasure and learning experience to watch you work.
Sweet man!!! This is going to save big . $$$. Keep it simple and not completed. I like it. Thanks for you vid and your ability to think and share. Thanks neighbor 👍😁
This is brilliant 👍 thanks for sharing I'll be looking at using this method. Love your set up jig
Nice work. Simple and very effective.
Wow a easy way to save money after all the times to the shop to have blades sharpened, a excellent video that will help your viewers, me as one of them save time and money. Thank you
Super nice! Thank for sharing!💜
Muy buena herramienta. De las mejores ideas hasta ahora. Gracias!
Always love the content. Thanks !
Wow, what a simple way to get things done. Trying to free hand it never comes put right. And Harbor freight sharpening station is not easy to set up. Thank you sir
Excellent jig, and results show it. Thanks~!~
A man who does woodworking in a B.O.C T shirt is someone to follow. Love your ideas and musical taste.Will it sharpen The Black blade.
intéressant , je ne savais pas qu'il existait des "disques d'affutage " aussi grand et surtout avec un trou d'axe du meme diamètre qu'une lame de scie . Bravo 😍 👏
I like your use of a coin as a washer. I never thought to do that before, but it would always perfectly solve my issues with getting washers with a small ID.
You can also use fender washers.
Impressive! I wish I was this much of a craftsman.
thanks for the sharpening tip!
This is neat. Thanks!
I live in an area where resharpening is more expensive than a new blade. It seems too wasteful just to buy them new every time.
Regards,
Etna.
Perfect, so simple you could make separate jigs for different blade sizes
This is so perfect. Thanks.
Really great design!
Great tip. I'm going to make a jig for mine tomorrow. Thank you.
P.S. Love the T-shirt, John
Thanks John, Brilliant, Just saved me a bunch of money.
Great concept. Thumbs up!
Thanks John! My blades are piling up!
Awesome idea, John. I assume with the adjustable index pin and the adjustable slide mount for the blade, you can accommodate different rake angles for the blades? I'm not up to speed on the blade geometries for various applications, just know the angles are different for certain grinds.
Brilliant, John.
I really need to sharpen my blades, I did not know that you could get a wheel for the table saw, thanks for sharing!
Log House Farm might even be a tile saw blade
Yess 🙏👍👍
Very Nice, John!
Love the dime washer😁
Just IN-GE-NE-OUS! Saves time and... (not to triffle with 😁) moneyyy. Great!
Amazing tool buddy!!!!!
Enjoyed that thanks
very useful. Thanks
Exceedingly clever!
Brilliant!
Great job
Nice, I have some blades that I need to sharpen too. Until now I never even considered doing it myself. I'll have to check sharpening prices, maybe I'll give it a whirl.
Great idea
smart idea only thing you have to remember , make absolutely sure that all the sawdst has been removed from the sawtable , small spark is enough to cause a mount of sawdust to start to smoulder and likely catch fire at a time youre not in the shop
Thanks for the heads up good point
You are cool! Thank You for idea!
Idea to make the "swing down stop" adjustable. Make the steel long enough for all the blades you plan on sharpening with the jig. On the bottom side make "steps" so it will swing down further for shorter blades. You will have to put different angles on the "steps" to get contact with the different sized blades. Because of the longer length, you'll probably want to have a block on either side of the "swing down stop" to help with any deflection on smaller blades. With thick enough steel you might not even need this.
Good work job
Great video
That's Wicked Heads up.
I might add, to spring load the stop and index the blade clockwise .. so you dont have to constantly open and close the stop.
Excellent.
Super great!
Brilliant! 👍
very good method for sharpening the face of the teeth Important thing is, to find out how to properly sharpen the top of the tooth as well as the chip limiter especially for rip cut blades
Nice. I was occasionally using your old method with the DMT files, you made years ago.
🖖😎👍
I had never thought about sharpening my old blades... Interesting.
Yeah you save a shit ton of money if you sharpen your blades instead of buying a new one every time you get quite a long life out of each blade if you sharpen them, they're not disposable like everyone thinks, most people don't sharpen chainsaw chains either
Very clever.
Very sweet idea. Think I'd use a smaller diamond wheel to be able to get into smaller gullets without nicking them.
Great video John. I can't seem to find your P.O box so I can send you all my blades to sharpen.
Modern machines,, like this 😍😍
Breathing protection is a good idea, as you mentioned... but the Blue Oyster Cult tee shirt is a must.
You've always got a brilliant solution for every shop problem. BTW, what's with the dime in the jig?
Thanks for making me take a second look at the video. I hate it when I miss a good joke. Especially one of John's.
Nicely done! I just might get those plans, but I have a tool shop close to home that I have used a few times to sharpen my blades and they’re not too bad on the price so ... undecided at the moment.
I bet one of those ideas on how to make that stop adjustable included using a screw to micro adjust the depth of sharpening.
Seems like this could be used to even change the rake on the teeth. I don’t know if that’s an advantage or something to be careful about. How much do you think one can change the rake before it’s too much to the mfg rake?
very cool
Brilliant
Very interesting you have of your mind blogging design to meet requirements for tools use
Certainly gives you a nice, clean, burn free finish cut.
Can you give an update on the long term performance of the sharpened blades? Do the carbide tips get softer due to the heat caused by the grinding?
Love your work, John. Bought your box joint jig plans and it works brilliantly! Quick question - How do you sharpen your ATB blades (if you use them)? Thanks for all you do.
Set the first angle and grind just those teeth, set the next angle and grind all of those, and one more time... If you want to be really precise mount a caliper to the tooth stop and zero it even so the tooth is flush to the grinder blade then adjust an exact amount with the calipers turned on. Install the indexer positioned on the next matching tooth, I almost forgot that.
Cool 💡
Good idea.
Nice!
Great idea. No smoke when cutting oak, it must be sharp.
All that lovely carbide down inside your table saw!
Particles so small it will micro hone your sealed bearings.
It`s a good performance
Its a good idea. I use a pillsr drill and jig.
how do you account for opposing angles in the grind of the teeth? (i.e. some teeth have a "left" angle, others a "right" angle) or can you only flat grind them??
tip the blade oh
ter side ?
The table saw blade can tilt.
I usually use a 4'' diamond masonry/tile blade on my grinder to sharpen my blades, but I just bought a Makita 7-1/4'' diamond masonry blade so I can put it on my table saw to use just like you did. One problem is it does not fit on my saws arbor it is 5/8'', and the blade is 1-1/4'' and it does have a bushing but that only reduces it to 7/8''. I made a sort of bushing out of hardwood but I don't think that will last too long. Any ideas so I don't kill myself while I sharpen? Thanks.
Buen video, lo único que me deja duda es la inclinación de los dientes, los afilaste todos con la misma inclinación.
Thanks.
What about blades with angle and pitch like the outside blades of a dado stack will that do them also or no
I would change the indexing of the blade with spring loaded stopper and going to the right instead that is the way I made mine
Just some advice as I used to sharpen these as well a machine tool cutter for 3 years. The index should be on the backside (shoulder) for 2 reasons. First & most important it wil keep constant pressure of the tooth against the wheel. The way you are doing it you have to keep pressure with your hands. Possible kickback. Safety first!
Second thing is when you get to that last tooth the index is going to be sitting against a freshly sharpened tooth making the last tooth to be sharpened sit further in. Yes, maybe only a. 003- .004 of an inch (machinist here). But it means that last tooth won't be engaging like the others & possibly causing premature wear or tooth breakage.
Good point. I will consider your point when making one for myself.
Yup, carbide dust is pretty carcinogenic. We have a specific room at the machine shop where I work for grinding carbide cutters and endmills. It's set up with negative pressure and some pretty beefy high flow air filters.
That's for an industrial scale operation though. If you're just touching up a saw blade at home, a half face respirator and a fan blowing dust out the door is plenty.
interesting, I thought it was going to explode