Awesome I have a plan ordering knapton custom too and I need data. Could you tell me your body weight and your board specs? Effective edge, sidecut R , waist width and etc
Board specs in the video description, I weigh about 180lbs, wouldn't recommend above a 14m sidecut for most people for their first board though (I went from 12m, 16m, now 20m) spending a few seasons on each).
@@mikeoclimberMTB thanx for your answer. It is So amazing your board side cut is 20m.. Here in Korea , most of the slopes are too crouded to make large turn safe, so that is not good to go too long sidecut R.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Did the change in sidecut radius make the board feel any more or less stable? How much does it change the way you turn and the size of the turn?
@jihojung9056 yes, the bigger radius does feel more stable, and the turns are much larger. Most people get locked into the turn then fall when they first try one of my boards.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Hehe I used to get locked in on my heelside when I first got my 12 m radius board. Scary stuff. I get a bit of heelside chatter on steeper terrain. It's probably a technique issue but do you think going up in radius would help with the chatter at all?
When you do the toe side eurocarve, how much weight/pressure do you put on your hand/elbow? I can get low and extend but my hand/elbow was dragging me and i just washed out. Any tips?
Pretty much none is the goal, but when learning them, everyone tends to put more weight on the elbow or hands than they should. I would say less than 5 lbs if I had to guess. It's easier to learn them if you have gloves that slide well or marine vinyl on your sleeves as your arms and hands won't get caught up if you put too much weight on them. Ryan Knapton has quite a few videos covering it on his channel.
Hi Man! Do you think you have enough hips rotation in backside turn in duck stance? I've tried to learn this for a few weeks, but I'm still bad in it😅 Maybe "devil" is in hips, and -15 don't let me do it.
Hi, with duck stance on heelside turns, your hips should be in alignment with your bindings and board, which initially can feel awkward, but it provides better control of the heelside edge. The upper body and shoulders can rotate and move independently from your lower body, but your hips should stay facing towards your toeside edge. This provides a better platform to pop rotations at any time, and allows you to better adjust for variable conditions while on your heelside edge. On the deeper heelside turns you can open your shoulders and rotate your upper body, while trying to not rotate your hips forward at all (unless you decide to pop a nollie 3). This also gives you a more stable platform to initiate butter or freestyle tricks at any time, or quickly correct turn paths as needed.
Sup Mike!👋🏻 I want ask when you carve in duck in a steep terrain do you have any problems? No skidding ? And the length of your board is 156cm, is it more for freestyle?
@@patlatenkiy I don't have any problems, but as the length of the board shortens, it becomes more important to be balanced over your board to keep the edge locked in and avoid skidding. Longer boards would probably have more room for error as far as balance points go while still keeping the edge locked in, but I prefer a shorter board for the freestyle performance and all around ability of it on the mountain (moguls, trees, etc), vs a longer board that would be easier for purely carving but not as ideal for everything else.
What made you decide to go with a short board but extra waist width, sidecut, stiffness and stance width, instead of a longer board with smaller specs for the rest?
@johnnykhawand the waist width and sidecut I would probably run the same on a short or long board. As far as short vs long, the short board makes noseroll 3s, butters, and spins take significantly less effort when doing them. To make up for the loss in effective edge when riding firm conditions, I sharpen my edges frequently to 0 base, 5 degree side. The 20m sidecut is overkill for nearly all riders, but it's fun to have an average carving speed that's faster, and it works much better than a normal sidecut radius when snowkiting.
@mikeoclimberMTB thanks for the reply. I did order mine a few weeks ago, but I went with 161cm, 9.2 m sidecut, and 30.5 cm waist width. I am 6'1 tall and 85 - 87 kg with 11.5 boot size. I guess I can't figure out what will suit unless I try starting from something on the safer side
Hi Mike. Im currently in the process of purchasing a Knapton Twin. Im 6 feet tall weighing in at 70 kilos, 155lbs. I'd like a board around 155 in length with at 29cm waist. I'll mainly be using it for carving with the odd park ride now and then. What do you think ? Also the side cut. What would you suggest. Anybody else that can contribute would be much appreciated.
Hi, length sounds about right for your height and weight and that type of riding, width is a personal preference that will depend on your preferred style of riding (freecarving vs park), boot size, etc... sidecut is also a personal preference, larger will give bigger radius turns and an average higher speed when carving, but harder to balance and much harder to manage on steeper terrain. Shorter is easier to carve at slower speeds, on steeper terrain, do freestyle stuff.. if it's your first time thinking of going up in sidecut, I think 8-12m is a good range to start with, if you want to have an easier time in the park I would stick to the smaller end of that for radius.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Thanks for your reply Mike. I have size 10 feet UK 11 USA, do you think the waist size at 29cm is enough ? Regarding the side cut do you think an 8 would be OK for park riding. Lastly what flex would you suggest ? Many thanks.
@mooncat.787 as far as width it all depends on preference stance angles, how high of edge angles you want to have when carving, so there isn't really a perfect answer for it. I ride a 33.5cm waist width with 11.5 us boot size for reference.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Jesus 33.5 ? That's a huge waist size. Your feet are half a size more than mine so I may reconsider the waist width. Flex Mike. What do you think ?
I've got some switch riding in some of my other videos but things like fs noseroll 3s i'm quite a bit smoother regular vs switch so don't bother filming things like that switch as much.
Awesome video Mike! I see a lot of Ryan influence there! Qaplla! Subscribed!
Amazing! You mastered nose rolls 360 as a boss. And the specs of your board is even crazier than guru Knapton'. Very much impressed !
Hey Mike, Love your riding!! I've got a new Knapton twin on the way...33cm waist, can't wait to ride without bootout!!!
Nice! They are super fun boards!
Ryan Knapton doppelganger on speed 🚀
Like it.
Really awesome Mike👏… way to piece it together
Awesome footage Mike.. way to piece it all together 🙌🤙
Mike, again you make me want to up my game 😅
These are dream conditions
Wicked stuff!
Nice!
Awesome I have a plan ordering knapton custom too and I need data. Could you tell me your body weight and your board specs? Effective edge, sidecut R , waist width and etc
Board specs in the video description, I weigh about 180lbs, wouldn't recommend above a 14m sidecut for most people for their first board though (I went from 12m, 16m, now 20m) spending a few seasons on each).
@@mikeoclimberMTB thanx for your answer. It is So amazing your board side cut is 20m.. Here in Korea , most of the slopes are too crouded to make large turn safe, so that is not good to go too long sidecut R.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Did the change in sidecut radius make the board feel any more or less stable? How much does it change the way you turn and the size of the turn?
@jihojung9056 yes, the bigger radius does feel more stable, and the turns are much larger. Most people get locked into the turn then fall when they first try one of my boards.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Hehe I used to get locked in on my heelside when I first got my 12 m radius board. Scary stuff. I get a bit of heelside chatter on steeper terrain. It's probably a technique issue but do you think going up in radius would help with the chatter at all?
Wow. Look at those carvings! So jealous…Can I ask how tall are you?
6ft.
When you do the toe side eurocarve, how much weight/pressure do you put on your hand/elbow? I can get low and extend but my hand/elbow was dragging me and i just washed out. Any tips?
Pretty much none is the goal, but when learning them, everyone tends to put more weight on the elbow or hands than they should. I would say less than 5 lbs if I had to guess. It's easier to learn them if you have gloves that slide well or marine vinyl on your sleeves as your arms and hands won't get caught up if you put too much weight on them. Ryan Knapton has quite a few videos covering it on his channel.
@@mikeoclimberMTB thank you for your explanation! I'll give that a try!
Hi Man! Do you think you have enough hips rotation in backside turn in duck stance? I've tried to learn this for a few weeks, but I'm still bad in it😅 Maybe "devil" is in hips, and -15 don't let me do it.
Hi, with duck stance on heelside turns, your hips should be in alignment with your bindings and board, which initially can feel awkward, but it provides better control of the heelside edge. The upper body and shoulders can rotate and move independently from your lower body, but your hips should stay facing towards your toeside edge. This provides a better platform to pop rotations at any time, and allows you to better adjust for variable conditions while on your heelside edge. On the deeper heelside turns you can open your shoulders and rotate your upper body, while trying to not rotate your hips forward at all (unless you decide to pop a nollie 3). This also gives you a more stable platform to initiate butter or freestyle tricks at any time, or quickly correct turn paths as needed.
Sup Mike!👋🏻 I want ask when you carve in duck in a steep terrain do you have any problems? No skidding ? And the length of your board is 156cm, is it more for freestyle?
@@patlatenkiy I don't have any problems, but as the length of the board shortens, it becomes more important to be balanced over your board to keep the edge locked in and avoid skidding. Longer boards would probably have more room for error as far as balance points go while still keeping the edge locked in, but I prefer a shorter board for the freestyle performance and all around ability of it on the mountain (moguls, trees, etc), vs a longer board that would be easier for purely carving but not as ideal for everything else.
What made you decide to go with a short board but extra waist width, sidecut, stiffness and stance width, instead of a longer board with smaller specs for the rest?
@johnnykhawand the waist width and sidecut I would probably run the same on a short or long board. As far as short vs long, the short board makes noseroll 3s, butters, and spins take significantly less effort when doing them. To make up for the loss in effective edge when riding firm conditions, I sharpen my edges frequently to 0 base, 5 degree side. The 20m sidecut is overkill for nearly all riders, but it's fun to have an average carving speed that's faster, and it works much better than a normal sidecut radius when snowkiting.
@mikeoclimberMTB thanks for the reply. I did order mine a few weeks ago, but I went with 161cm, 9.2 m sidecut, and 30.5 cm waist width. I am 6'1 tall and 85 - 87 kg with 11.5 boot size. I guess I can't figure out what will suit unless I try starting from something on the safer side
Hi Mike. Im currently in the process of purchasing a Knapton Twin. Im 6 feet tall weighing in at 70 kilos, 155lbs.
I'd like a board around 155 in length with at 29cm waist. I'll mainly be using it for carving with the odd park ride now and then. What do you think ?
Also the side cut. What would you suggest. Anybody else that can contribute would be much appreciated.
Hi, length sounds about right for your height and weight and that type of riding, width is a personal preference that will depend on your preferred style of riding (freecarving vs park), boot size, etc... sidecut is also a personal preference, larger will give bigger radius turns and an average higher speed when carving, but harder to balance and much harder to manage on steeper terrain. Shorter is easier to carve at slower speeds, on steeper terrain, do freestyle stuff.. if it's your first time thinking of going up in sidecut, I think 8-12m is a good range to start with, if you want to have an easier time in the park I would stick to the smaller end of that for radius.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Thanks for your reply Mike. I have size 10 feet UK 11 USA, do you think the waist size at 29cm is enough ?
Regarding the side cut do you think an 8 would be OK for park riding. Lastly what flex would you suggest ?
Many thanks.
@mooncat.787 as far as width it all depends on preference stance angles, how high of edge angles you want to have when carving, so there isn't really a perfect answer for it. I ride a 33.5cm waist width with 11.5 us boot size for reference.
@@mikeoclimberMTB Jesus 33.5 ? That's a huge waist size. Your feet are half a size more than mine so I may reconsider the waist width.
Flex Mike. What do you think ?
Less than 1% of this video was switch riding. Don't hide from switch riding.
I've got some switch riding in some of my other videos but things like fs noseroll 3s i'm quite a bit smoother regular vs switch so don't bother filming things like that switch as much.